Before you start buying parts it may be worth a shot to simply reset the Throttle Position Sensor, Video linked below. They can get out of sorts sometimes. Link - ruclips.net/user/shortseq-WHU5nVK4?feature=share
+Deuce and guns yes you were right I went to a mechanic who recently installed a new fuel pump on my truck and he said that it's probably the screen filters inside of the fuel tank needed to be cleaned or replaced it still starts and drive fine I just don't put it on the highway right now thanks Deuce
If you keep your truck long enough you'll have this problem AGAIN. Had mine 14 years ,replaced pedal with new ford pedal around 8 years ago and today it started having same problem AGAIN. I believe original actually lasted longer than the replacement.
I’m working on a late (September) 1999 Ford F250 7.3L powerstroke, it was getting hard to start so I kept it plugged in so it would start. That was the only thing that I had a problem with so I rebuilt the injectors. After rebuilding the injectors it started up without being plugged in, it took three tries to get it started. I let it run until it warmed up then I shut it down and restarted it, it fired right up, again I shut it down and it fired right up. Fixed right, wrong, it runs great at an idle no missing tack steady. So I took for a test drive I went slow at first about 30 or so for the first couple of miles then I stepped down on the pedal to bring it up to speed limit at 50. It took a while for it to reach 50 it just didn’t have the power that it should have. I have change out the HPOP, IPR valve, IPC sensor, new oil & filter and the same thing happens, no get up and go power. When just sitting there it will rev up tack at 2500rpms but when you drive it there’s no get up and go power. Any ideas what I should look at next? Thanks Kevin
Not sure if that year has them, but I know on my 03, and many other years. there are screens after the fuel pick up assembly on the fuel pump in the tank, that can get clogged up, and some people clean or replace, while others just don’t re-install/“delete” them. If you can get someone with a scan gauge or other diagnostic device to monitor fuel pressure while driving and you see a big drop in pressure when giving throttle under load, those screens may be the problem...
Thanks for the vid! I've tried replacing the whole assembly and still not getting any power when I press the pedal. Starts and idles fine. Any ideas of where to go from there?
My FIXD code reader is calling it the Throttle Idle Corr. Is that the same thing? When I entered throttle idle corr 2020 f250 6.7 into UTube you came up.
I’m having the issue with the accelerator pedal but first I had a problem with my fuse panel on the fender wheel. I had another 97 at 3:50. I pulled the wiring harness out of that truck and then installed it on the truck that I’m working on got it all installed and I’m having a problem with noaccelerator pedal the overdrive light is flashing and the engine light is on. Do you have any idea what it might be? Everything was working fine except for I had a loose connection in my fuse block kept burning fuses that’s why I changed the wiring harness.
First, try the pedal position reset procedure. With truck off turn the key to on then slowly push the pedal to the floor a few times. Outside of that it's a wiring or sensor issue.
My F250 has a problem if it accelerates but when I read the live data it shows TPS 14% and 0.75 volts at idle and when accelerating fully, it only reads 78% and 3.94 Volts. Is that normal? Is there a way to calibrate the TPS or does the entire assembly have to be changed in the same way? I have been checking this because my F250 is low on power and by removing the 17 position fuse my truck develops more power.
"Should be an easy fix." Funny how often it isn't, right? Recently took my truck in to a mechanic for an odd noise it was making which I thought would be the speedometer cable slipping (needle would bounce around once you get up to 40+ mph) and that's precisely what my mechanic said. I get a call an hour later saying something about potentially having to take the whole head apart on the off chance the cable is slipping either behind the dash cluster or if it's actually happening up near the engine. Then he tells me he can't put my truck up on the lift to look at it and I'll have to take it somewhere with a drive-on lift. C'est la vie. Not sure why I thought this as this isn't one of those channels, but with this being posted on April 1st I avoided it thinking this might be one of those specific brand-hating videos like "I ran into a problem with my Powerjoke but it was an easy fix, I just put in a Cummins/Duramax." Glad to see that wasn't the case.
The TPS needs to be trained if that’s all you’re changing. There is a key on engine off procedure while pressing the pedal. Once it’s done you’re all set. Cheaper fix.
What really bugs me is that my 2000 7.3 f550 only has 44000 miles on it! It is a bucket truck so did have a lot of idle time and never had any problems. But I am now retired from 07 and all it has been doing is setting around so just maybe my problem is the other little switch that you can't buy just needs a good cleaning like I have seen in a video. Worth a shot I guess? The other problem is I never know when it will do it? I need to sell the truck for sure but I do want it working for the one who buys it. Any thoughts from any of you?
Mine seems to build up over a 1/4 mile starts to lug until it finally wont go. There is a hissing sound. If I let it idle for a while it gets better for about a 1/4 mile. Any ideas?
+Camerron Terrell The best price I could find was at www.rockauto.com I know their website looks like it's not been touched for 15 years but they have good prices and quick shipping.
+TheStraycat74 I love my F-250 almost as much as my Deuce which says a lot. She's never been my primary vehicle but I've still managed to average about 9,000 miles a year on her.
+DEUCE AND GUNS me brother has a 5-ton, I drive a Peterbilt and my "little" white truck. I prolly put 8k to 14k on mine a year. mostly F-ing Off. and I WISH I got to go shooting as much as you do
I just got my accelerator sensor replaced under the hood if my jackaroo/trooper 3lt diesel and now when i go up a hill it loses power,does anybody know if the sensor isnt set right right as even with the old faulty sensor it didnt lack power but surged,its doing my head in at the moment,if anyone can help be appreciated
I’m having a similar problem but it’s a little different.... my truck drives fine for a while but then I’ll be holding the gas pedal at a certain speed or accelerating and my gas pedal will quit working. Once I let off the gas pedal it comes back.... no engine light or anything. Also my taillights flicker when I lose power... any ideas guys ?? F-250 SuperDuty powerstroke 6.7
@@SouthernRG Faulty brake switch? Interesting. So the computer was randomly thinking you were applying the brakes while simply cruising down the road? That would disengage the throttle in the 7.3 so it'd probably do that in yours as well.
I have a 1996 and it has no code but it feels like it's in limp mode won't go over 35mph and won't shift past 2nd gear. Do you think these sensors could cause that too.
Faults in these sensors usually lights up the check engine light so it may be something else. It could be the Cam sensor or even check the back pressure valve. I have a vid on that back pressure valve linked below . It threw no codes and made the engine bog down on the hwy. ruclips.net/video/dVy7QzbkdtI/видео.html
Very helpful! Curious how you actually probed the voltage output. Did you have to fabricate a special harness? And, its weird that the variable resistor and the simple idle on/off switch interact with each other at the voltage output level - i.e. I would have thought that they'd be two separate circuits going to the PCM. Long-winded way of saying that I know a great deal more now having seen your video, but I still can't explain how the system works or how to test mine. Regardless, this was very helpful!
I have this weird problem. This has gotten worse over time. At first, I could let it warm up for like 45 minutes, but when I step on the throttle I can barely get over 30 MPH. No check engine lights. It idles fine. After driving it "bogged down" (only way I can describe it), I pull over, shut off the engine, start it back up, and everything would run fine. Until now, the pulling over shutting off, restarting works for about 3-5 seconds then bogged down again. I am going to start with the fuel filter, but any ideas?
Due to the lack of a check engine light I'm leaning toward a fuel delivery issue. Filter, fuel pump, or fuel pickup screen clogged in the tank. That's if you don't hear the turbo bypass stuck open. I had that issue as well at one point and made a video on it.
I'm having almost same identical problem with my 95 F350. I have installed two different TPS and still no acceleration, only idle. I have one light that comes on, the check engine light but only when I press the peddle. The only thing I haven't changed is the idle validation switch.
@@deuceandguns just TPS haven't replaced the entire assembly yet was hoping that would fix the issue. It idles fine but doesn't even try when put into drive revs good at idle but barely squeaks up in drive
It's only $567.79 at the local napa here in friendly centralia washington. Yup, sure am glad they took that old pesky cable style throttle linkage away
Hello how are you doing ? I hope I your eyes are better. I have a 1995 ford f-250 diesel, the truck starts and drive fine at 65 - 68 mph but when I go 70mph or above it starts to stall and run ruff and the fuel filter light on the dashboard come on but I have a new fuel filter in it, but once I slow down or pull over and let idle for a minute or so it drive's fine could that be the throttle control sensor ????
+pictureman63 That doesn't sound like the throttle control sensor to me. If the fuel filter light is working as intended it only senses a flow restriction. It could be several things such as water in the fuel, air leaking into the fuel line, dirty fuel bowl, cracked or weak fuel pump, etc. I'd start with a visual inspection inside and out of the fuel filter housing and follow the fuel lines for signs of moisture. If all that is good it may be worth the diagnostic fee from a mechanic then you do the repair yourself. I've done that after chasing electrical gremlins for a month in another vehicle.
My truck"s water in Fuel light,SES light and Wait to start light would all come on for a second, truck would go to idle and then be fine until the next time. Tried all the filters/sensors with no luck The fix? Unhook both batteries, remove PCM 10MM harness retaining bolt. Unplug PCM. Plug back in and rehook batteries. Fixed! I know it sounds stupid, but if you have the symptoms I described above. Try it.I chased mine for two days then found a link that said to do this. It that link, several other people said it also work for them.
I got mine a rockauto.com. The website looks like it's from the 90's but works. Last I heard the prices of the assembly was going up so make sure to shop around.
I have a '99 7.3 and had same symptoms... replaced pedal assembly (includes both sensors) and no change... I go down highway and let go of throttle and "service engine soon" light comes on and engine runs really rough and has no go... next things to look for???
Lonnie W ... my 2000 is doing the same . Started first with the small micro switch going bad in the pedal assembly.... When it runs rough I pull over and shut down . The restart gets the RPMs smooth again. What did you find out about your truck?
Ended up being the IDM (injector drive module)... last thing I thought it would have been. I Replaced everything else (injector harness, icp sensor, fuel pressure regulator etc.) first because the forums and such didn't really lead me to the IDM. Also, my 2000 wouldn't read a code even though the "check engine soon" light was on. I believe there's a way to get it tested or even test it yourself. It's located in the driver side fender well... pretty easy to take off... I think 8&10mm sockets. Keep me posted.
Thank you for the reply Lonnie... I'll keep you posted. Truck has 300k so I'm sure a lot of the electronics are in need of replacing. Otherwise the truck owes me nothing for the years in service and has been dependable.
No problem! Also, I got a pedal assembly out of a pick-a-part... just a thought... I replaced mine with one and no change, then changed it back... they're expensive, if you test and think yours is bad you can have the used one I got since it wasn't the problem. Have a great day!
I'd be interested in what they say because a ton of viewers have been telling me the part is no longer available. There are too many of these old work horses out there for the parts not to be available.
I'm not an expert on the 99s but I don't think so by looking at the IVS plug. It looks like all the 97 pedal assemblies have dried up at this point. Your options are, junk yard, dealership, new/old stock surfacing on Ebay, buying a TPS and rigging up a micro switch for the IVS. My pedal assembly had the part number APS101 but it looks like that only gets you the sensor now. You may be able to make the 99 model work but I can't guarantee anything.
close to my prolem… 2000 7.3. Anytime I am running/towing at 2600 rpm or above and I back off the throttle, then I get back into the throttle/fuel/pedal, I get nothing... no power, will glide to a stop. If I put into neutral, then back into drive I can get throttle again and get back up to speed. Killin me. I cant tow through the mountains like this. Ive tried peddle assembly, new computer, transmission linkage on the side of trans, brake light switch. no success
@@kennethmason8961 which sucked bc I had already thrown that very valve at it, at a different time , trying g to fix something else (I cant remember)I guess manufacturer parts really do make a difference.
LD thank you very much I’ll try it my 6.0 is doing the same thing I get over 3k rpms and the gas pedal doesn’t work I put it in natural and back in gear it picks back up kinda makes it hard when I’m diving with a drilling rig in the back
Someone else was looking for one recently and it looks like they've dried up and may be a dealer only part now. The TPS sensor is still available but the IVS would still have to be cobbled together with a random 12v micro switch.
I'm really not sure if it was only the IVS or if I finally got a good TPS. Either way changing them both out as a unit did the trick. For the video I wish I had taken to time to try a second new TPS but I needed my truck on the road ASAP and didn't have time to play around.
DEUCE AND GUNS my fiancé’s truck is having issues with this so I just unplugged the connectors and sprayed contact cleaner in them. So far so good. Only been one day though
@@DPats1228 I did a quick search and it looks like the assembly is no longer made by anyone but Ford and I've been told it's upwards of $400ish. Best bet is to replace the TPS or try and replace/repair the IVS with a contact switch that works.
If you're looking for a throttle assembly like the one in the video for a 95-97 obs 7.3 do a Google search for "96 7.3 throttle assembly" that should help you find some results.
+djverhulst This was the first thing I filmed after Lasix surgery so I had to protect my eyes. My surgeon saw this and got on to me. No really fun stuff for the next two weeks but I got the deuce out last weekend! Thanks for watching.
+mrajentman You may be thinking of the newer Powerstrokes that came around in the mid 2000s but the 7.3 is renowned for its longativity. From your comment I guess you've never had the pleasure to work with a 6.2/6.5 Detroit. I firmly believe the Detroit was designed to keep the motor pool busy and out of trouble.
yah detriots are beautiful engines all i know is i had to replace the injector cups on a 6.0 and in reality its about a 50 hour job, im used to my 12 valve Cummings where everything is easy and simple.
Thanks I haven’t tried it yet but pretty confident it will work. I have the same issue with my 7.3 F550
Before you start buying parts it may be worth a shot to simply reset the Throttle Position Sensor, Video linked below. They can get out of sorts sometimes. Link - ruclips.net/user/shortseq-WHU5nVK4?feature=share
+Deuce and guns yes you were right I went to a mechanic who recently installed a new fuel pump on my truck and he said that it's probably the screen filters inside of the fuel tank needed to be cleaned or replaced it still starts and drive fine I just don't put it on the highway right now thanks Deuce
If you keep your truck long enough you'll have this problem AGAIN. Had mine 14 years ,replaced pedal with new ford pedal around 8 years ago and today it started having same problem AGAIN. I believe original actually lasted longer than the replacement.
I’m working on a late (September) 1999 Ford F250 7.3L
powerstroke, it was getting hard to start so I kept it plugged in so it would
start. That was the only thing that I
had a problem with so I rebuilt the injectors. After rebuilding the injectors it started up
without being plugged in, it took three tries to get it started. I let it run until it warmed up then I shut
it down and restarted it, it fired right up, again I shut it down and it fired
right up. Fixed right, wrong, it runs
great at an idle no missing tack steady.
So I took for a test drive I went slow at first about 30 or so for the
first couple of miles then I stepped down on the pedal to bring it up to speed
limit at 50. It took a while for it to
reach 50 it just didn’t have the power that it should have. I have change out the HPOP, IPR valve, IPC
sensor, new oil & filter and the same thing happens, no get up and go power.
When just sitting there it will rev up tack at 2500rpms but when you drive it there’s
no get up and go power. Any ideas what I
should look at next?
Thanks Kevin
Not sure if that year has them, but I know on my 03, and many other years. there are screens after the fuel pick up assembly on the fuel pump in the tank, that can get clogged up, and some people clean or replace, while others just don’t re-install/“delete” them.
If you can get someone with a scan gauge or other diagnostic device to monitor fuel pressure while driving and you see a big drop in pressure when giving throttle under load, those screens may be the problem...
Thanks for the vid! I've tried replacing the whole assembly and still not getting any power when I press the pedal. Starts and idles fine. Any ideas of where to go from there?
THANK YOU! Just the info I needed. You have a new subscriber from Northern Michigan.
I had same issue. Your video helped a lot. Thank you! 👍
My FIXD code reader is calling it the Throttle Idle Corr. Is that the same thing? When I entered throttle idle corr 2020 f250 6.7 into UTube you came up.
I’m having the issue with the accelerator pedal but first I had a problem with my fuse panel on the fender wheel. I had another 97 at 3:50. I pulled the wiring harness out of that truck and then installed it on the truck that I’m working on got it all installed and I’m having a problem with noaccelerator pedal the overdrive light is flashing and the engine light is on. Do you have any idea what it might be? Everything was working fine except for I had a loose connection in my fuse block kept burning fuses that’s why I changed the wiring harness.
First, try the pedal position reset procedure. With truck off turn the key to on then slowly push the pedal to the floor a few times. Outside of that it's a wiring or sensor issue.
My F250 has a problem if it accelerates but when I read the live data it shows TPS 14% and 0.75 volts at idle and when accelerating fully, it only reads 78% and 3.94 Volts. Is that normal?
Is there a way to calibrate the TPS or does the entire assembly have to be changed in the same way?
I have been checking this because my F250 is low on power and by removing the 17 position fuse my truck develops more power.
I'm not sure about that fuse but I just made a video to show you how to reset the TPS. Hope it helps: ruclips.net/user/shortseq-WHU5nVK4?feature=share
THANKS, GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR ESTE INTERESANTE VIDEO.
Wait... in have the same issue why didn't the New TPS work? Was it both sensors?.
excellent info + enjoyable video!!!
thank you!!!!!
I can't find the part on the website. is there a link I can use to find it? I'm having the same issue on my 97 7.3 powerstroke
Did you ever diagnose the issue with the old assembly?
"Should be an easy fix." Funny how often it isn't, right? Recently took my truck in to a mechanic for an odd noise it was making which I thought would be the speedometer cable slipping (needle would bounce around once you get up to 40+ mph) and that's precisely what my mechanic said. I get a call an hour later saying something about potentially having to take the whole head apart on the off chance the cable is slipping either behind the dash cluster or if it's actually happening up near the engine. Then he tells me he can't put my truck up on the lift to look at it and I'll have to take it somewhere with a drive-on lift. C'est la vie.
Not sure why I thought this as this isn't one of those channels, but with this being posted on April 1st I avoided it thinking this might be one of those specific brand-hating videos like "I ran into a problem with my Powerjoke but it was an easy fix, I just put in a Cummins/Duramax." Glad to see that wasn't the case.
The TPS needs to be trained if that’s all you’re changing. There is a key on engine off procedure while pressing the pedal. Once it’s done you’re all set. Cheaper fix.
Turn key on step on pedal all the way to floor then release. then start, that programs the pedal. try that
yeah that didn’t work for me
Yeah didn’t work for me either
Great video. Thanks
will this pedal assembly work for a 1994 or 1995?
What really bugs me is that my 2000 7.3 f550 only has 44000 miles on it! It is a bucket truck so did have a lot of idle time and never had any problems. But I am now retired from 07 and all it has been doing is setting around so just maybe my problem is the other little switch that you can't buy just needs a good cleaning like I have seen in a video. Worth a shot I guess? The other problem is I never know when it will do it? I need to sell the truck for sure but I do want it working for the one who buys it. Any thoughts from any of you?
Mine seems to build up over a 1/4 mile starts to lug until it finally wont go. There is a hissing sound. If I let it idle for a while it gets better for about a 1/4 mile. Any ideas?
where did you get the part at? I'm having the same problem with my truck and can't find the pedal assembly.
+Camerron Terrell The best price I could find was at www.rockauto.com I know their website looks like it's not been touched for 15 years but they have good prices and quick shipping.
I have the 1997 Ford F-250 Heavy Duty leaf-spring front end and 7.3 turbo diesel
hope you love yours as much as I love mine
+TheStraycat74 I love my F-250 almost as much as my Deuce which says a lot. She's never been my primary vehicle but I've still managed to average about 9,000 miles a year on her.
+DEUCE AND GUNS me brother has a 5-ton, I drive a Peterbilt and my "little" white truck. I prolly put 8k to 14k on mine a year. mostly F-ing Off. and I WISH I got to go shooting as much as you do
Thank you for that!
I just got my accelerator sensor replaced under the hood if my jackaroo/trooper 3lt diesel and now when i go up a hill it loses power,does anybody know if the sensor isnt set right right as even with the old faulty sensor it didnt lack power but surged,its doing my head in at the moment,if anyone can help be appreciated
I’m having a similar problem but it’s a little different.... my truck drives fine for a while but then I’ll be holding the gas pedal at a certain speed or accelerating and my gas pedal will quit working. Once I let off the gas pedal it comes back.... no engine light or anything. Also my taillights flicker when I lose power... any ideas guys ??
F-250 SuperDuty powerstroke 6.7
Hope someone chimes in for you but unfortunately I have no usable knowledge on fixing 6.7 issues.
DEUCE AND GUNS found out it was the brake switch
@@SouthernRG Faulty brake switch? Interesting. So the computer was randomly thinking you were applying the brakes while simply cruising down the road? That would disengage the throttle in the 7.3 so it'd probably do that in yours as well.
DEUCE AND GUNS yes sir
I have a 1996 and it has no code but it feels like it's in limp mode won't go over 35mph and won't shift past 2nd gear. Do you think these sensors could cause that too.
Faults in these sensors usually lights up the check engine light so it may be something else. It could be the Cam sensor or even check the back pressure valve. I have a vid on that back pressure valve linked below . It threw no codes and made the engine bog down on the hwy. ruclips.net/video/dVy7QzbkdtI/видео.html
Very helpful! Curious how you actually probed the voltage output. Did you have to fabricate a special harness? And, its weird that the variable resistor and the simple idle on/off switch interact with each other at the voltage output level - i.e. I would have thought that they'd be two separate circuits going to the PCM. Long-winded way of saying that I know a great deal more now having seen your video, but I still can't explain how the system works or how to test mine. Regardless, this was very helpful!
I have this weird problem. This has gotten worse over time. At first, I could let it warm up for like 45 minutes, but when I step on the throttle I can barely get over 30 MPH. No check engine lights. It idles fine. After driving it "bogged down" (only way I can describe it), I pull over, shut off the engine, start it back up, and everything would run fine. Until now, the pulling over shutting off, restarting works for about 3-5 seconds then bogged down again. I am going to start with the fuel filter, but any ideas?
Due to the lack of a check engine light I'm leaning toward a fuel delivery issue. Filter, fuel pump, or fuel pickup screen clogged in the tank. That's if you don't hear the turbo bypass stuck open. I had that issue as well at one point and made a video on it.
Thanks. I have the same truck, same problem, 332,000 and still runs like new money
So what did you do wrong with the sensor? You didn't give anyone an answer?
That first replacement sensor was dead on arrival. I went cheap and it bit me.
I'm having almost same identical problem with my 95 F350. I have installed two different TPS and still no acceleration, only idle. I have one light that comes on, the check engine light but only when I press the peddle. The only thing I haven't changed is the idle validation switch.
Reggie Wrinkle change the whole peddle assembly
same
Why the sensor is only $ 70 the whole assembly can be over $300??? New TPS and still no throttle response?.
Did you find a fix for this?
Put back the original sensor back on clean up the connectors and plug them up you should be good to go I had the same problem
Ive replaced this sensor no issue but the truck is still in limp mode and refuses to make any power could it be the vehicle speed sensor??
Could be. Did you replace both sensors? The throttle position sensor and idle verification switch?
@@deuceandguns just TPS haven't replaced the entire assembly yet was hoping that would fix the issue. It idles fine but doesn't even try when put into drive revs good at idle but barely squeaks up in drive
Well that's good stuff to know! How much did the gouge you for the pedal assy?I'm going to subscribe!
It was somewhere around $100ish but I now understand that Ford has discontinued the part so the aftermarket part price has more than doubled.
It's only $567.79 at the local napa here in friendly centralia washington. Yup, sure am glad they took that old pesky cable style throttle linkage away
Not sure this is my issue, both switches test good on mine, same issue, no throttle and check engine light.
Icp?
So where do i find this for a 1997 ford ambulance. Should be the same
Hello how are you doing ? I hope I your eyes are better. I have a 1995 ford f-250 diesel, the truck starts and drive fine at 65 - 68 mph but when I go 70mph or above it starts to stall and run ruff and the fuel filter light on the dashboard come on but I have a new fuel filter in it, but once I slow down or pull over and let idle for a minute or so it drive's fine could that be the throttle control sensor ????
+pictureman63 That doesn't sound like the throttle control sensor to me. If the fuel filter light is working as intended it only senses a flow restriction. It could be several things such as water in the fuel, air leaking into the fuel line, dirty fuel bowl, cracked or weak fuel pump, etc. I'd start with a visual inspection inside and out of the fuel filter housing and follow the fuel lines for signs of moisture. If all that is good it may be worth the diagnostic fee from a mechanic then you do the repair yourself. I've done that after chasing electrical gremlins for a month in another vehicle.
My truck"s water in Fuel light,SES light and Wait to start light would all come on for a second, truck would go to idle and then be fine until the next time. Tried all the filters/sensors with no luck The fix? Unhook both batteries, remove PCM 10MM harness retaining bolt. Unplug PCM. Plug back in and rehook batteries. Fixed! I know it sounds stupid, but if you have the symptoms I described above. Try it.I chased mine for two days then found a link that said to do this. It that link, several other people said it also work for them.
DC I have the same problem, where can I get that pedal assembly that you used? Thanks
I got mine a rockauto.com. The website looks like it's from the 90's but works. Last I heard the prices of the assembly was going up so make sure to shop around.
I have a '99 7.3 and had same symptoms... replaced pedal assembly (includes both sensors) and no change... I go down highway and let go of throttle and "service engine soon" light comes on and engine runs really rough and has no go... next things to look for???
Lonnie W ... my 2000 is doing the same . Started first with the small micro switch going bad in the pedal assembly.... When it runs rough I pull over and shut down . The restart gets the RPMs smooth again. What did you find out about your truck?
Ended up being the IDM (injector drive module)... last thing I thought it would have been. I Replaced everything else (injector harness, icp sensor, fuel pressure regulator etc.) first because the forums and such didn't really lead me to the IDM. Also, my 2000 wouldn't read a code even though the "check engine soon" light was on. I believe there's a way to get it tested or even test it yourself. It's located in the driver side fender well... pretty easy to take off... I think 8&10mm sockets. Keep me posted.
Thank you for the reply Lonnie... I'll keep you posted. Truck has 300k so I'm sure a lot of the electronics are in need of replacing. Otherwise the truck owes me nothing for the years in service and has been dependable.
No problem! Also, I got a pedal assembly out of a pick-a-part... just a thought... I replaced mine with one and no change, then changed it back... they're expensive, if you test and think yours is bad you can have the used one I got since it wasn't the problem. Have a great day!
Icp sensor
How can I contact you? I have some questions if you don’t mind.
Just put a CarQuest brand TPS in my 97 powerstroke F350. Same exact results. However I called car quest, and they say I have the wrong part number
I'd be interested in what they say because a ton of viewers have been telling me the part is no longer available. There are too many of these old work horses out there for the parts not to be available.
Ive looked all over and cant find a pedal assembly for a 97, will a 99 model work?
I'm not an expert on the 99s but I don't think so by looking at the IVS plug. It looks like all the 97 pedal assemblies have dried up at this point. Your options are, junk yard, dealership, new/old stock surfacing on Ebay, buying a TPS and rigging up a micro switch for the IVS. My pedal assembly had the part number APS101 but it looks like that only gets you the sensor now. You may be able to make the 99 model work but I can't guarantee anything.
There's a reason the deuce is better, NO ELECTEONIC THROTTLE. Also it's been like 3 months and no deuce video yet.
What powerstroke engine do you have?
7.3
i have a 95 super duty need to know were I can purchase a 95836 accelerator assy.
correction 9F836
I got my assembly through rockauto.com but I have no idea if they have your assembly in stock.
Thank you
Is that the same on a 94
I'm having the same problem . thanks .....
Where did you buy your Pedal assembly
close to my prolem… 2000 7.3. Anytime I am running/towing at 2600 rpm or above and I back off the throttle, then I get back into the throttle/fuel/pedal, I get nothing... no power, will glide to a stop. If I put into neutral, then back into drive I can get throttle again and get back up to speed.
Killin me. I cant tow through the mountains like this. Ive tried peddle assembly, new computer, transmission linkage on the side of trans, brake light switch. no success
LD I’m having the same exact problem did you ever figure out what it was?
@@kennethmason8961 ended up in dealership. They told me ipr valve
@@kennethmason8961 which sucked bc I had already thrown that very valve at it, at a different time , trying g to fix something else (I cant remember)I guess manufacturer parts really do make a difference.
LD thank you very much I’ll try it my 6.0 is doing the same thing I get over 3k rpms and the gas pedal doesn’t work I put it in natural and back in gear it picks back up kinda makes it hard when I’m diving with a drilling rig in the back
Where did you get the whole pedal assembly?
Rock auto. I'm not sure if it's still available but if it is they'll have it.
Now all ya gotta do is replace the brake pedal pad so you have a matching set of new pedals.
i have a 1999 f250 7.3l dont accelerated somebody help please
what was the price for the whole assyembly
Good video man is dhe problema whats me have my truck tanks man
I had the same this happended to me but it was a fuel filter
Can I get a link for the pedel assembly.
Someone else was looking for one recently and it looks like they've dried up and may be a dealer only part now. The TPS sensor is still available but the IVS would still have to be cobbled together with a random 12v micro switch.
Where did you buy it at
on line # aps102
So it was the IVS?
I'm really not sure if it was only the IVS or if I finally got a good TPS. Either way changing them both out as a unit did the trick. For the video I wish I had taken to time to try a second new TPS but I needed my truck on the road ASAP and didn't have time to play around.
DEUCE AND GUNS my fiancé’s truck is having issues with this so I just unplugged the connectors and sprayed contact cleaner in them. So far so good. Only been one day though
That's what people online told me to try first. It didn't work for me at all but if a good cleaning cleared up the issue then keep driving it.
DEUCE AND GUNS What is the part number for that throttle pedal assembly by chance? And was it from Ford?
@@DPats1228 I did a quick search and it looks like the assembly is no longer made by anyone but Ford and I've been told it's upwards of $400ish. Best bet is to replace the TPS or try and replace/repair the IVS with a contact switch that works.
I can’t find the parts online
If you're looking for a throttle assembly like the one in the video for a 95-97 obs 7.3 do a Google search for "96 7.3 throttle assembly" that should help you find some results.
nice glasses
+djverhulst This was the first thing I filmed after Lasix surgery so I had to protect my eyes. My surgeon saw this and got on to me. No really fun stuff for the next two weeks but I got the deuce out last weekend! Thanks for watching.
+DEUCE AND GUNS oke, I hope your eyes dasn't borther any more , I like thise F 250 video's too, and looking forward for the Deuce
"Throttle"?
More obs 7.3 videos
On the way so stay tuned. I may even make a stand alone playlist for them.
Good video .... love it
To boring ......
Go to the point ......
quicker........
Almost 7.3 people knows thins......
ipr
you know what the problem is...
its a powerstroke, worst diesel motors on the market
+mrajentman You may be thinking of the newer Powerstrokes that came around in the mid 2000s but the 7.3 is renowned for its longativity. From your comment I guess you've never had the pleasure to work with a 6.2/6.5 Detroit. I firmly believe the Detroit was designed to keep the motor pool busy and out of trouble.
+DEUCE AND GUNS Agreed. 7.3's were good but. 6.0's are juuuuuunk
yah detriots are beautiful engines all i know is i had to replace the injector cups on a 6.0 and in reality its about a 50 hour job, im used to my 12 valve Cummings where everything is easy and simple.
+mrajentman lol you should try working on the latest motors from all three! talk about a nightmare!!!
Samuel Sanchez HA! I lifted the hood of an F-350 and saw the 6.7L for the first time a few months ago then promptly closed it.