MDF is tough stuff and it’s also messy on your waste board. You also want to be careful to find MDF that’s made without Formaldehyde or you can have some nasty gasses when cutting it. I used to cut more of it with my larger Co2 laser but once I found decent plywood I stopped cutting it. Also……. Stop taunting me with the T-shirts in January!
Not on Christmas but in 2021 there was a deadly tornado that came through Southern Minnesota the week of Dec 15th. It was about 45 min away from where I live.
I recently bought the xtool d1 pro 20w and after lots of failed attempts I finally dialled down settings that work - have been cutting 3mm MDF on 5 mm/sec and 90% power on a honeycomb bed and air assist and majority of the time cuts clean through and isn’t sooty 😊
Only had the D1 pro 20w for a few months, but cut some 1/8'" MDF the other day on a honeycomb and used 375mm/m @ 70% focused 1.5mm down into the material. Cut 1/4" diam. circles out and got very sharp clean cuts. Black edges, but no soot would come off on your fingers. Haven't tried 1/4" MDF yet.
That’s good to know! Basically I’ve been dead-in-the-water since about 1/14 when my module arrived. Still waiting on Comgrow customer support to recover from the Lunar New Year.
Great review. I am thinking about using 3/4" MDF for a spoilboard and burning an alignment grid into it. The surface on the MDF is much cleaner than plywood.
Clack, That MDF sure looks different than the MDF that I'm accustom to seeing. Can't tell exactly but looked like the fibers are more course than the stuff I purchase. I cut your jig system jigs from the 1/4" MDF that I have. My notes show that I cut the jig at 300 mm/min @ 100% 4 passes. Using my xTool D1 10w. Have done a bit of engraving and turns out fine but I'm not big into engraving photos etc. Last summer while at a Lowe's I asked an employee where the MDF was, they took me to some fiberboard, said no I want MDF, then we went to where the hardboard was, no I want MDF, I gave up and found it myself. Like I said the MDF I'm used to has very fine particles. Not an expert in MDF but seems to be different types available, suppose depends on the part of country are in. I'm out west.
As I have mentioned, it works great for acrylic and that was really my reason for having it. I have done a few with it and around Christmas, it gets used alot for ornaments. I do have a glass project in the works that I plan to use it to do.
Are you just running a written down setting list or are you programming your Lightburn Library with the cutting and engraving settings for each laser and laser setups?
Thanks so much for the great content!! I work with personalized products (sublimation). I usually outsource the laser. Import fees here in Brazil are very high. But I found a Neje 3 Plus with the laser a40640 already direct from a warehouse in Brazil, which is without fees, so at a very good price. How I'm going to do more recordings and almost no cutting. Use the roller for bottles, glasses, mugs, squeeze... I'm going to buy it in addition to the roller, air assist and compressor. Do you believe this machine is suitable for this purpose? Can I have quality in the definition of the logo with this machine? Or should I save twice as much money and buy a better one? what would you suggest? Excuse my English from google translator =) And thanks in advance for your attention and once again for the excellent videos.
@@TheClackShack Thank you very much for your attention The model I saw, says to be (0.04x0.06mm with 12w + pulse and 11w of continuous optical power) and they give 2 years warranty. Looks good for engraving. Thank you so much again. Good week =)
@@williamckolisch , I like my 10 watt machines from other brands. You will have to run more passes to cut than a 20 but if engraving is your focus, the 10s perform well.
@@TheClackShack Which machine do you like the most at the moment? And what do you recommend? Depending on the value, I'll study and wait longer to get a 20. I also saw the Neje 3 max. It can either come with the E40 module or the A40640. And its base is also bigger, with a larger area for recording. Does it make much difference if the base is in "T"? Sorry for the bunch of questions lol
@@williamckolisch The T or open loop machines can be harder to keep focused. I have 2 of them and that is the only issue I have with the design. As the gantry goes out, it can sag down and cause focus changes. Price and performance based, if you are getting your first machine, it is hard to beat the D1. I do have a good contender coming that may change my mind. It has slightly more output and a larger workspace.
MDF is tough stuff and it’s also messy on your waste board. You also want to be careful to find MDF that’s made without Formaldehyde or you can have some nasty gasses when cutting it. I used to cut more of it with my larger Co2 laser but once I found decent plywood I stopped cutting it.
Also……. Stop taunting me with the T-shirts in January!
LOL
Tomorrow it will be cold again, that's how we roll in Bama... I but you never had 70 and tornados on Christmas..
Not on Christmas but in 2021 there was a deadly tornado that came through Southern Minnesota the week of Dec 15th. It was about 45 min away from where I live.
I recently bought the xtool d1 pro 20w and after lots of failed attempts I finally dialled down settings that work - have been cutting 3mm MDF on 5 mm/sec and 90% power on a honeycomb bed and air assist and majority of the time cuts clean through and isn’t sooty 😊
This is closer to 6 mm thick
Great video, I was looking to use MDF and with these video now I will!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative! I was thinking of using for puzzles for the grand kids. Guess I will use for a backer instead.
1/8 inch maybe for a 10 watt. 1/4 inch is tough on the 10 watt
Only had the D1 pro 20w for a few months, but cut some 1/8'" MDF the other day on a honeycomb and used 375mm/m @ 70% focused 1.5mm down into the material. Cut 1/4" diam. circles out and got very sharp clean cuts. Black edges, but no soot would come off on your fingers. Haven't tried 1/4" MDF yet.
It’s a little tougher
That’s good to know! Basically I’ve been dead-in-the-water since about 1/14 when my module arrived. Still waiting on Comgrow customer support to recover from the Lunar New Year.
Yea, it has been a blackout in that part of the world.
Thanks. That's useful information.
Thanks
Cool comparison!
Thanks
Great review. I am thinking about using 3/4" MDF for a spoilboard and burning an alignment grid into it. The surface on the MDF is much cleaner than plywood.
It is tough, be careful when cutting, wood spoil boards can catch fire.
@@TheClackShack Will do. Thanks!
Interesting. I’m looking forward to seeing how the new Ortur 20W module performs compared to the Comgrow & XTool
I would love to test one. Just waiting until then
Very helpful, thanks!
Your welcome
I get good cuts in 1/4 mdf on my 10w elegoo phecda with air assist that came with it. It needs 4 passes @ 450 mm/m 75% to get scorch free cuts.
Nice
I wounder if you did a ramp test with both machines, if one would come up with a finer dot size than the other.
They are suppose to be about the same. I am gonna clean them both and try some more photos at a higher lpi
Is 18mm mdf impossible with a diode laser? Even with a 40w diode ?
18mm MDF is gonna be tough on most any hobby laser if you are trying to cut.
Opinion on Comgrow VS Roly Lasermatic?
If you have the $$ and the size works for you, LM
Really struggling with the settings for MDF on the S1 40 watt.
MDF can be a pain. Speed and power tests. Maybe even multiple passes
Did you happen to trydid you happen to test the falcon 2 22w?
I have a falcon 20 watt, not a bad machine.
@@TheClackShack I mean did you test mdf on it?
@@bretoner2 no, but MDF is tough on any 20 watt.
@@TheClackShack ok good to know . Thank you. Still a newbie
I'm looking forward to seeing what the new xtool 40 watt laser will do! Do you have any plans on getting one?
Jury is still out. I wouldn’t mind trying it
Clack, That MDF sure looks different than the MDF that I'm accustom to seeing. Can't tell exactly but looked like the fibers are more course than the stuff I purchase. I cut your jig system jigs from the 1/4" MDF that I have. My notes show that I cut the jig at 300 mm/min @ 100% 4 passes. Using my xTool D1 10w. Have done a bit of engraving and turns out fine but I'm not big into engraving photos etc. Last summer while at a Lowe's I asked an employee where the MDF was, they took me to some fiberboard, said no I want MDF, then we went to where the hardboard was, no I want MDF, I gave up and found it myself. Like I said the MDF I'm used to has very fine particles. Not an expert in MDF but seems to be different types available, suppose depends on the part of country are in. I'm out west.
Possibly, this stuff is really thick. But it engraves and cuts pretty consistent.
Wish you would do more with the Monport i ordered one should be in this week used your link code kinda feeling remorse now!.
As I have mentioned, it works great for acrylic and that was really my reason for having it. I have done a few with it and around Christmas, it gets used alot for ornaments. I do have a glass project in the works that I plan to use it to do.
Awesome video
Thanks for the visit
Are you just running a written down setting list or are you programming your Lightburn Library with the cutting and engraving settings for each laser and laser setups?
Old school notepad on my desktop right now
Thanks so much for the great content!!
I work with personalized products (sublimation). I usually outsource the laser. Import fees here in Brazil are very high. But I found a Neje 3 Plus
with the laser a40640 already direct from a warehouse in Brazil, which is without fees, so at a very good price. How I'm going to do more recordings and almost no cutting. Use the roller for bottles, glasses, mugs, squeeze... I'm going to buy it in addition to the roller,
air assist and compressor. Do you believe this machine is suitable for this purpose? Can I have quality in the definition of the logo with this machine? Or should I save twice as much money and buy a better one? what would you suggest? Excuse my English from google translator =)
And thanks in advance for your attention and once again for the excellent videos.
My experience with NEJE is limited to 5 watt models but they work well. As long as the power output is enough, the machine operates well
@@TheClackShack Thank you very much for your attention
The model I saw, says to be (0.04x0.06mm with 12w + pulse and 11w of continuous optical power) and they give 2 years warranty.
Looks good for engraving. Thank you so much again. Good week =)
@@williamckolisch , I like my 10 watt machines from other brands. You will have to run more passes to cut than a 20 but if engraving is your focus, the 10s perform well.
@@TheClackShack Which machine do you like the most at the moment? And what do you recommend? Depending on the value, I'll study and wait longer to get a 20.
I also saw the Neje 3 max. It can either come with the E40 module or the A40640.
And its base is also bigger, with a larger area for recording.
Does it make much difference if the base is in "T"? Sorry for the bunch of questions lol
@@williamckolisch The T or open loop machines can be harder to keep focused. I have 2 of them and that is the only issue I have with the design. As the gantry goes out, it can sag down and cause focus changes. Price and performance based, if you are getting your first machine, it is hard to beat the D1. I do have a good contender coming that may change my mind. It has slightly more output and a larger workspace.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼🎉😎Thank you
Thank you too!