I'm brand new to laser cutting and I've watched about 4 of your videos now. You're awesome, the vids are jam packed with value, and I appreciate the time and thought you put into them. Thanks for helping out people of all sizes!
So useful! Thanks. I find the location rising the laser is more accurate than a camera as there is no distortion that the wide-angle cameras give, but I would really like a camera too for rough positioning and quick jobs
Thank you so much Clack Shack, long time viewer. Your tutorials are always so freaking helpful. Keep following your passion, and thank you so much for this good content.
Thank you so much for these very instructional videos. I am a bit over 70 and took up lasering for a hobby - loving it! But, wanted to be able to setup a jig. This instruction was great - my question - I have a riser on my S1 and the crumb tray moves in and out so it is difficult to get the metal grid thing to stay in one place. I put it to the right but still seems to move up and down. Any suggestions? Thank you again for being so willing to share your knowledge - even for us old dogs! LOL
Thanks for the video and the files. I got my S1 all set up and ready to go just have to hook up my exhaust. I did get the riser for the passthrough for the future but there is a riser for no pass through will this work with that also? This is a just in case someone has a no passthrough riser, cause I heard in the UK they aren't aloud to use the passthrough! Nice chatting This past weekend with you and Steve.
Also in lightburn, you can move parts in and out of the work area. It may be that you have not placed them in the work area individually. Many of my files contain multiple pieces.
Hey there, I'm sure you probably have already seen xtools christmas video, anyway he shows how to make a jig for batching. Only difference from yours is he put a cross up in the top left, so as to line the crosshair up to. I just tried it and it worked really well Just thought maybe I could share something for you as you do with us
Great videos. Really helpful how you so easily simplify the process. I’m curious if you have a link to your favourite metal business card you use that works with the S1 diode laser. I’ve bought some off Amazon that do not work with Diode and they all have turned out poorly. Thanks and glad you’re on the road to recovery. 👍🏼
Hi! So, I purchased your jig template from Etsy and I had to resize it a little so the handy dandy places for your fingers to get the metal business cards out. But apparently those got to be more oval than round and now the air assist blows them out. The ovals were cut in half when making the jig so do you think if I glued those back in, that would take care of the issue?
When doing anodized cards, turn the air assist to its lowest setting. You can turn it off but I leave some air on with my S1. Careful resizing, you can change other dimensions also.
Thank you for these great videos! Our S1 has been ordered and we're too excited to get started as it'll be our 1st dive into this space. For the honeycomb, would it be possible to strategically place some strong rare-earth magnets inside to keep it secure? After adding your jig file, and after marking your 2-points for the work area, would it be possible to add a new box line and just type in the exact outside measurements of your jig for the box. Take that box and put it inside your green area space, then use snapping to center your jig in? Lots of extra steps until xTool adds snapping vectors to that green bounding box but would that work?
That would me my suggestion is for magnets to hold it to the bottom. Only issue I see is that the bottom plate doesn't seem to be attracted to magnets. I am working on some other approaches. Yes, I use a tool line to mark the outline of my panel. It is fairly accurate.
@@TheClackShackthanks for the info. I figured to use rectangle magnets stuck to the base to just keep the bed from being able to move around. Hopefully that's possible!
For positioning jigs, I find an engraved cross on the face of the jig at the corners is easier to align than using board edge. You can see the whole laser mark as it intersects your reference. Corners are easily damaged and an inset reference mark will not care! You don't need to worry so much about jig edges as a location reference as your engraving will never be out to the edge with this jig.
I'm curious what your opinion is on the S1 with Lightburn. I was one of the beta testers of the S1 and at least in the beta phase I had no luck with Lightburn. I haven't tested it again yet though. So you test it, before I still have to be annoyed ;-)
1 more question for you. Is it possible to cut through the metal business cards with the Xtool S1 20W. I’m curious if I could make trophy plates from the business cards. If yes, could you let me know what settings I could try. Thanks in advance!!
Good afternoon, I purchased the Jigs from you put it into Lightburn and the file is super-sized and no sizes on the pieces for me to try fix so please assist me with making them useable. Thank you in advance Ed
Unless the file was resized during opening, the sizes should be correct. Be sure to OPEN and not use IMPORT on lightburn files. There is no need for sizes if opened properly.
Great video! With no camera, how would you do the positioning to cut out a bunch of small items at the same time using a piece of wood that was previously used and has a bunch of available space all over the place?
What settings did you run for the cards? I bought your jigs for the D1 Pro and they work so good. And yes if you sell the file for those clamps i will get it.
Nice jig, so you can't "snap" the jig to the green 2-point line? I think they purposely "handicapped" the S1 by not including a camera so people purchase the much more expensive P2. Try to position 20-30 little items in-between the spaces on your jig with the 2-point system....LOL!
Thanks for another great video! Glad you are feeling better. You mentioned you created a 3D printed clamp for the honeycomb. Are you selling the file? I checked Etsy and didn't see it so thought I'd ask.
Thank you for this; jigs was one of my concerns with this machine. Does the software have the ability to use the curved surface focusing in addition to the rotary attachment, for use on tapered or bulbed glasses?
My question is more about the d1. I just got your jig files from etsy. O ly problem im having is after i have to hit stop in lightburn the d1 thinks its at home position and to reset that i need to hit home. After that the position is always a bit off so the jigs end up being a bit off. How do you deal with that?
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I'm brand new to laser cutting and I've watched about 4 of your videos now. You're awesome, the vids are jam packed with value, and I appreciate the time and thought you put into them. Thanks for helping out people of all sizes!
Thanks, glad you like them. I try to help…
So useful! Thanks. I find the location rising the laser is more accurate than a camera as there is no distortion that the wide-angle cameras give, but I would really like a camera too for rough positioning and quick jobs
I use both and love it
I'm glad your recovery is going well. The video was very helpful.
Thanks… glad it was helpful
Thank you so much Clack Shack, long time viewer. Your tutorials are always so freaking helpful. Keep following your passion, and thank you so much for this good content.
Glad you like them! I plan to keep it coming... Thanks
Thank you for these videos! They truly help! Hope you are feeling better!
All better now… thanks
Glad you are recovering. Thank you for your time and help on this.
Glad to help
Glad that your recovery is continuing to improve! Thanks for your time and work on the videos!
Thank you too!
Thank you so much for these very instructional videos. I am a bit over 70 and took up lasering for a hobby - loving it! But, wanted to be able to setup a jig. This instruction was great - my question - I have a riser on my S1 and the crumb tray moves in and out so it is difficult to get the metal grid thing to stay in one place. I put it to the right but still seems to move up and down. Any suggestions? Thank you again for being so willing to share your knowledge - even for us old dogs! LOL
I press mine all the way to the back. Using this jig and the screw, even if the crumb try moves, the jig stays in one place.
This was great ! Thank you for all the details. I’m a new S1 user and this was a game changer. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Glad you liked it... Thanks alot
Awesome tutorial Clack
Thanks…
Thanks for the video and the files. I got my S1 all set up and ready to go just have to hook up my exhaust. I did get the riser for the passthrough for the future but there is a riser for no pass through will this work with that also? This is a just in case someone has a no passthrough riser, cause I heard in the UK they aren't aloud to use the passthrough! Nice chatting This past weekend with you and Steve.
Should, just need to get the crumb tray out of the way of the screw hole. Thanks and enjoy...
This will be my first laser of any type, and I was wondering how I could easily laser multiple of the same item. This was a great video, so thank you!
Glad I could help!
My machine is the S 1 20 watt sorry I forgot that with my first note.
Ed
Also in lightburn, you can move parts in and out of the work area. It may be that you have not placed them in the work area individually. Many of my files contain multiple pieces.
Hey there, I'm sure you probably have already seen xtools christmas video, anyway he shows how to make a jig for batching.
Only difference from yours is he put a cross up in the top left, so as to line the crosshair up to. I just tried it and it worked really well
Just thought maybe I could share something for you as you do with us
Yea, as long as you can keep it square, that will work.
Great tutorial!! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great videos. Really helpful how you so easily simplify the process. I’m curious if you have a link to your favourite metal business card you use that works with the S1 diode laser. I’ve bought some off Amazon that do not work with Diode and they all have turned out poorly.
Thanks and glad you’re on the road to recovery. 👍🏼
Thanks, I have lots of blanks listed in here. They are all in a video on my channel. www.amazon.com/shop/theclackshack
I am currently saving up for the s1 but I currently have a d1 pro, I was wondering if you could do a Xcs jig guide for the d1 pro?
I made one years ago, it is in SVG format
Hi! So, I purchased your jig template from Etsy and I had to resize it a little so the handy dandy places for your fingers to get the metal business cards out. But apparently those got to be more oval than round and now the air assist blows them out. The ovals were cut in half when making the jig so do you think if I glued those back in, that would take care of the issue?
When doing anodized cards, turn the air assist to its lowest setting. You can turn it off but I leave some air on with my S1. Careful resizing, you can change other dimensions also.
@@TheClackShack Yes, thank you. The other dimensions were great.
Thank you for these great videos! Our S1 has been ordered and we're too excited to get started as it'll be our 1st dive into this space.
For the honeycomb, would it be possible to strategically place some strong rare-earth magnets inside to keep it secure?
After adding your jig file, and after marking your 2-points for the work area, would it be possible to add a new box line and just type in the exact outside measurements of your jig for the box. Take that box and put it inside your green area space, then use snapping to center your jig in? Lots of extra steps until xTool adds snapping vectors to that green bounding box but would that work?
That would me my suggestion is for magnets to hold it to the bottom. Only issue I see is that the bottom plate doesn't seem to be attracted to magnets. I am working on some other approaches.
Yes, I use a tool line to mark the outline of my panel. It is fairly accurate.
@@TheClackShackthanks for the info. I figured to use rectangle magnets stuck to the base to just keep the bed from being able to move around. Hopefully that's possible!
For positioning jigs, I find an engraved cross on the face of the jig at the corners is easier to align than using board edge. You can see the whole laser mark as it intersects your reference. Corners are easily damaged and an inset reference mark will not care! You don't need to worry so much about jig edges as a location reference as your engraving will never be out to the edge with this jig.
I used fixed jigs, no need for alignment. Thanks
When using the jig, shouldn’t you set the focus on one of the cards you are engraving/etching?
You can but 1 mm of focus isn't critical when engraving.
I'm curious what your opinion is on the S1 with Lightburn. I was one of the beta testers of the S1 and at least in the beta phase I had no luck with Lightburn. I haven't tested it again yet though. So you test it, before I still have to be annoyed ;-)
I have done some basic stuff in lightburn, its not terrible.
So the 2 point marking process doesn't work in Lightburn ?
If it does, I can't figure it out. And it isn't in the book
Thanks this answered a lot of questions. Just one sir. Do you think placing target burned on the jig and align those would be good
You can do it multiple ways. Consistency is key
@@TheClackShack Thanks
1 more question for you. Is it possible to cut through the metal business cards with the Xtool S1 20W. I’m curious if I could make trophy plates from the business cards. If yes, could you let me know what settings I could try. Thanks in advance!!
I am not going to say it isn’t possible but not with any usable results. Thin metal just warps and melts. Not what I would call cutting for any use.
Good afternoon, I purchased the Jigs from you put it into Lightburn and the file is super-sized and no sizes on the pieces for me to try fix so please assist me with making them useable.
Thank you in advance
Ed
Unless the file was resized during opening, the sizes should be correct. Be sure to OPEN and not use IMPORT on lightburn files. There is no need for sizes if opened properly.
Thank you !!!! your videos are great..
Glad you like them!
Great video! With no camera, how would you do the positioning to cut out a bunch of small items at the same time using a piece of wood that was previously used and has a bunch of available space all over the place?
That is where not having a camera would be an issue.
Yes sir! And I'm having such a hard time getting passed the no-camera, other than that, I would order one ASAP.@@TheClackShack
Is 4mm what you recommend for your jigs? What kind of wood ?
Anything 4mm or so will work. Just needs to be fairly rigid
I found my answer 😅 Thank you for your other replies.
There is no such thing as a dumb question.. just dumb people.. Good day
What settings did you run for the cards? I bought your jigs for the D1 Pro and they work so good. And yes if you sell the file for those clamps i will get it.
I am wanting to say i just set them at 400mm/s at 100. I haven't tested anodized with it much
What is the work space
19.6 x 12.5
Nice jig, so you can't "snap" the jig to the green 2-point line? I think they purposely "handicapped" the S1 by not including a camera so people purchase the much more expensive P2.
Try to position 20-30 little items in-between the spaces on your jig with the 2-point system....LOL!
I can do it using this technique. As far as the snapping, I am not sure. I am still learning XCS.
I think it would take a long time especially if the items were different sizes and shapes.@@TheClackShack
Thanks for another great video! Glad you are feeling better. You mentioned you created a 3D printed clamp for the honeycomb. Are you selling the file? I checked Etsy and didn't see it so thought I'd ask.
Not yet, I am still tweaking the design.
Thank you for this; jigs was one of my concerns with this machine.
Does the software have the ability to use the curved surface focusing in addition to the rotary attachment, for use on tapered or bulbed glasses?
Yes, I am gonna cover that in a future video
@@TheClackShack wonderful, thank you!
My question is more about the d1. I just got your jig files from etsy. O ly problem im having is after i have to hit stop in lightburn the d1 thinks its at home position and to reset that i need to hit home. After that the position is always a bit off so the jigs end up being a bit off. How do you deal with that?
If you hit stop, it can loose its place and needs to be rehomed. If it isn't homing accurately, slow down your home speed some.
Didn't see where it focused on the cards...
Focused on the jig. Very close. You could also send it down on the card itself if it was a concern.
Can you share your 3d Clip File?
It requires the screws to be replaced with longer ones.
@@TheClackShack ok….