My secret to making a great jig
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2022
- If you struggle with making jigs are doing multiple objects with a laser engraver. This video is for you, using my jig kit can make all the difference in your ability to turn out products. My technique takes the guesswork out of jigs. The kit is available for multiple laser engraving machines on the market.
For templates that I have made, check out my Etsy shop. I build files for projects and tools for laser engravers.
www.etsy.com/shop/TheClackShack
For Clack Shack shirts, check out my store:
the-clack-shack.creator-sprin...
The links below are affiliate links that will direct you to the product in this video. If you use this link for a purchase, I will receive a commission from the purchase. I remain unbiased and honest in my assessment as always.
XTool: www.xtool.com/?ref=TheClackSh...
Amazon pet tags- amzn.to/3DgQlPT
Amazon for Enjoywood CEL-E10 $100 off at checkout with this link. amzn.to/3d2BnCz
Use this code for additional 5% discount: Enjoywood01
Comgrow: comgrow.com/?sca_ref=2392321.... 
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Love Love Love this. When I saw you use jigs, I added that to my list of things I need. But the process I created in my head to make them was way more complicated than this! LOL Yes, I AM an overthinker! So helpful, and not something I would have thought to incorporate into my process.
It is actually very simple… thanks
Thanks for the explanation! Just brilliant.
Thanks
Another way to know front from back is to take a pencil and write 'front' on the front. Works every time. Or, a bit off the wall, engrave 'Front' on it while you're cutting the holes.
That is an option
I love the way you explain things to folks, you make it a matter of fact and in terms most will understand Bravo!
I appreciate that!
Great video, as always.
At 21:53 you were having trouble with the Y direction of your grid array not lining up. If you notice, in your array settings pane, you have “Distance from center to center” unchecked for your Y direction. This means that the 4.580 is actually the measurement between objects, which isn’t what you want. When you do your initial grid array for the keychain cutouts, make sure the “Distance from center to center” is checked and then take note of the settings once your cutout grid is made. Then, when you go to add images to the inside of the tags, the same distance-to-center settings will apply, making the process much more predictable. I’m not sure why people are having so much trouble with your jig setup. It works great for me. One final thing I might add. When I get done making a new jig for a specific new item, I go back and select all of the cutouts and right-click on them and select “Lock selected shapes.” This prevents me from accidentally moving/deleting/resizing them in the future. Cheers.
Yea, I thought about it afterwards but it was too late. I will try to remember next time. Thanks
I purchased and being honest I cut the patterns in my board before I put the board on the tabs .... and YUP realized it right away and I won't use that because of the amount of time to line things up after its on the tabs. GREAT PRODUCT - works like a charm and very much appreciated! I had been looking for something like this for a very long time. This simplifies all of my repeatable process so much! Thank You! I not only saved my file, I locked the image after it was all set up.
I have done the same.. I use the kit on every machine I have.. Thanks.
Thank you for the insight. Very well explained.
Glad it helped
Thank you for the very thorough explanation and instructions. I bought the jig file last night from Etsy. Looking forward to using when machine comes in.
Glad it was helpful!
This is awesome. I'm learning so much from you, thank you. I am with you I like things centered and lined up. I haven't tried it yet but this is so straight forward.
It makes it simple
Thank you very much. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
This is the video I was looking for, thanks.
Glad I could help
I am really enjoying your videos because of the way you present them...down home Alabamian, My laser (Atezr P20) finally arrived yesterday, and I can't wait to get it put together and begin burning stuff. I will be ordering this jig from you very shortly, hopefully it will work on my P20.
Glad you like them!
awesome info thanks
Very welcome
Excellent video I downloaded your jig kit for my Aetzer P20 plus.
Enjoy!
Thank you!
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great video Clack. Heading over to buy your files. Off to get some mirrors tomorrow
Enjoy…
Eggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggslent !! Thanx for sharing. You Rock
Thanks
Takk!
Thanks
@TheClackShack - Two words. Virtual Array. Do the same thing but create it as a virtual array. Add the camper to the first circle. Select the camper and the circle. Right click on them and select Add to array. Boom. No need to have the extra grid of campers. (Love your stuff BTW. Need to buy one of your jigs to support the channel)
Cool, I haven’t found that option yet. I will be looking for it.
@@TheClackShack When you build the initial array you have to toggle the "create virtual array" switch at the bottom of the window, then the above instructions by Ron will show up.
For something like this, could you just engrave out the thickness of the tag instead of completely cutting the plug and having to sand and tape it? You could potentially flip it over and use the other side of the board as another similar jig. One last thought would be to leave a nub where the keyring hole is to make it even more foolproof for centering. Love the content as always!
You could but that would take way longer to produce because of the passes required. I actually meant to cut the second circle fully…lol. Thanks
U could improve this fixture for this application by adding 2 locating pins for ur key rings. And by adding two wooden 1/2 inch long locators to hold the round rings one on each side. So for two key rings u need 4 1/2 inch pieces of wood (toothpicks) would work and 2 metal pins to locate in the holes and burn it.
I am sure it could be improved.
Just mark two pins with a 1 and then mark the finger with a 1 on each side of the pin. On the fixture that stays with the machine. Then you just locate the jig fixture over the 1’s. Walla your back in the original location as when you started.
Agreed
Thanks for all your vids they’re really helping me get setup in my own place. Can you share what purifier or the vid that you share your setup on. As I’m getting deeper into laser I’m needing to clean the smoke off these laser projects. Thank you
The purifiers are an option if you can't vent but I strongly recommend venting it outside if possible. The filters can get expensive and the air is better but not "pure".
I think I would have cut out the crescent shape then multiple engraved the circled area to remove some of the material (enough for the disc to sit flush with the top of the board.
Many options..
Got your 26.3mm jig off Etsy. For some reason the right side hole position was off enough to prevent the teeth from locking together. No biggie, I have calipers and measured and fixed it. Just fyi. Jigs seem to work great and are very easy. Don’t know what all the fuss is about.
Haven’t had an issue reported, a lot of variables. I am glad you got it worked out.
Just what I needed to see! So, when I save it. I just replace the image & the laser will do the rest. And it will know where to go?
Something like that. You get the steps right, it’s easy
ok I found this video and now it is crystal clear to me at least. I am going to buy your P20 Atezr jig kit file from Etsy and the only last question and if you did happen to mention it, I apologize for asking, is you have to use absolute coordinates for this to work correct? Thanks.
I use home as my fixed point but yes.
Engrave A. B. C. D. .... on the jig and put the proper letter on first lock on the jig panel to mark where the first lock needs to be put. That is, if you put it in same lock position each time.
You could
What is the adjuster you have on your laser module? That looks very useful.... and your gantry is different as well..... can you speak to your setup?
That is a machine that I am testing. It is an Enjoywood 10 watt. Here is the video, ruclips.net/video/YbWaw66DSIY/видео.html
i ooften use cardboaard to maake the cutting jigs. I have lots of it laying around so it's free and don't feel bad if II mess it up or need to change something and need too remake it.
Not a bad idea… use what you have
I have the Z1, will your jig system work without the honeycomb? looking to batch out coasters, is there a intro system you would suggest? I'm another beginner.
As long as the Z1 is sitting on a flat surface it will. The way the legs are built, it has to be on top of the honeycomb to sit right. I have the large comgrow honeycomb which allows the machine and jig to sit on top of it.
Bought your jig file on Etsy. Curious as to what material you use for your jigs? Especially, what thickness?
4mm or thicker plywood
You didn't mention anything about the part at the back of the laser that this part hooked into. How is it attached to the laser?
Using a jig.
My xTool D1 (original) is very accurate and square. I cut the locking panel in the file download and the holes for the feet aren't the right distance apart. I don't know what the difference between your machine and mine is but it didn't work for me.
Look into the special folder. There are some variations in a few of the XTools anywhere from a mm or 2 to 3mm variation. Also, there will be a slight amount of sanding to get the tightest fit possible on most machines. If I make the file too loose, the accuracy suffers.
Hiya, great video but how does this relate when using xcs?
XCS is very limited. I have never used it so I can't really say.
i don't have a laser and I enjoyed the video.
Thanks. You may like using one...
The only thing I do different is after creating the array is make it a tool path an Lock it before saving it. I have accidentally moved it once or twice before I did this.
Cool
I’m confused. On my D1 non-pro 10w I have no limit switches so home position is luck of the draw its gonna be precise, as I have a camera bracket installed on the back part of the frame. My question is with the Origin Position. This machine you’re using here, I believe, has limit switches so home is always consistent. On your D1 without limit switches, I’ve heard you say you use X1,Y1 or something close to that for home position. Do you bottom out the gantry against the back and the module to the side closest to where you want Home to be or do you have another method you use that takes some of the guess-work out of setting an Origin Position? I’ve been wracking my brain and getting wrapped around the axle (engineering background but not a math guy) Where can I set as my origin position so that it’s consistent?
My first D1 was a first release 10 watt. You can do it without limit switches. Even if you have to manually push the machine to a position in the very first homing. I set an x/y position for the laser to return to after the burn to maintain accuracy. Here is my old video of the process. ruclips.net/video/ZMeDrDaBGks/видео.html
On my D1, if I set it to home after cutting (no limit switches) will the head go back to the right spot on the jig after cutting the hole or adding more to the hole for engraving? Thanks
Using the return function will help ensure that the machine knows where it is located after a cut. I find it helps keep things more accurate. I have a video demonstrating it. Also, slow down the travel speed to avoid crashing the sides.
@@TheClackShack thanks as always
love your videos. Bought your gig template. What kind of wood are you using for the jig? Total beginner here...
1/4 inch Luan plywood. AKA underlayment
@@TheClackShack I've tried 1/4 luan and had no luck with burning it without it either not burning all the way through or ending up breaking one of the teeth on the panel. im running a Xtool D1 10 w
@@juniormorgan4779 not sure what kind of plywood you are using. That is what I use on most of my designs. With 10 watt and even 5 watt machines
I just backed the elegoo phecda, it won’t be here for a bit, did you back one? If not is this pretty universall? This is my first time watching
I do not have an elegoo, they all operate really similar
@@TheClackShack that’s what I’m seeing watching a lot of videos. My main issue that I see I might have is getting my laser to print in the same spot or the exact spot I want it to laser in. I saw your jig you made I might pick one up!
Now that you have had that machine for over 10 months what do you think of it?
It is still working as it did. It is very comparable to the atomstack machines. I have started using more powerful modules but for a 10 watt, it does a good job.
Are the files only for particular machines? As I have a Flying bear Laser man. Or will they work on a fixed Honeycomb of any brand?
The locking panels are, they can be modified but must have a way to ensure they are in the same location every time.
@@TheClackShack Thanks, Honeycomb is due Thursday. I’ll figure away of affixing it to my frame. And then go from there. I love and hope I can utilize your system.
The tags are aluminum? (link)
Yes, It was in the description.
Amazon pet tags- amzn.to/3DgQlPT
If u use a stiletto u just need a very small offset to remove ur pieces.
thanks
so, i followed this video (and your others) exactly. I cut the locking panel and put it in place, then cut out a jig panel, and then attached it to the locking panel. I then opened the 4 inch square jig panel and moved the laser to center and framed, and it framed with the bottom of the bottom squared being below the jig panel. it looks like the whole thing needs to be moved up an inch. what am i doing wrong? fyi...i started with 16x16 panels.
Are you using lightburn?
@@TheClackShack yes
@@aislinciarcia2846 make sure it isn’t framing the tool lines or you don’t have anything lower. Without looking at it, hard to say what could be wrong. It works, I use them too
Hello, is it possible to configure the template for the Design Space software?? Thank you
You will need to use the DXF format file to cut it but yes. I do not use XCS but others do
@@TheClackShack ok, thank you !!! I just bought it on etsy
Do you have a jig that will work on a longer ray5 10w?
Not yet.. may be coming
This setup requires absolute coordinates be used, right?
Consistency, I always start from home location.
What kind of wood are you using now? Is it 1/4" or 5mm? I know you don't like the luan... The video cleared up alot of questions I had... Thanks..
The stuff I use is sold as 1/4 inch luan but it measures 4.5 mm. I got some other red colored stuff that works but is tough to cut and doesn’t shade as well. I prefer the 4.5mm stainable.
@@TheClackShack Lowes or Home Depot?
@@TheClackShack picked up some from Lowes and it measures 5.0MM will this make a difference in your jig system? Will it make much of a difference in your honeycomb jog system. I have purchased both.
@@AlienLeader4 you just need enough layers to be just below the surface of the honeycomb. Doesn't matter about thickness of each layer of the honeycomb holder, just less layers. For the jigs, there is no difference.
Do you have jigs for the Atomstack A5?
Not currently, I haven’t been able to get my hands on a machine to design it.
Darn.The price on theses have really shot up in the year since you posted this.
I think the price of everything has went up in the past couple of years.
I never got any of the locking panel to work...I'll have to make my own.
What machine? What issue did you have?
@@TheClackShack The tabs to hook jigs to, where off and none of the leg holes were spaced right. I just used your pattern and tweaked it a little bit. I have a X-Tool D1
@@charleshouseknecht6970 , not sure what could have went wrong. Unless XTool is being inconsistent
when i lock my jig panel into the interlocking panel and attempt to frame out my jig, it continuously runs off the panel. i am using your medium size jig (simply because i am attempting to make a 2ea 4in circle template for when i do slate and cork coasters. i know the circles will fit on the panel because i have physically placed the coasters on the panel to ensure the cut outs would fit and they do). I have even placed the top of the template up to the top of the artwork frame in Lightburn and it STILL runs off the panel when i am framing....thus telling me that i need to move my artwork up further...but i cannot! AAAAGGGGGHHHH!!!! This is really starting to get on my nerves!!
Make sure you don't have any other designs or small pieces in that region of the workspace. I have many videos on how I make the jigs and it isn't difficult. If there is a tool line in the outer area such as an outline for another panel, be sure to turn off framing for that tool line.
@@TheClackShack i figured it out...my air assist hose was preventing the module from going to true 0 on the y axis...thus the module wasnt truly starting at 0,0.! (duh!!)
@@christopherriley403 , glad you got it.
What part of bama I live in nw bama!! Roll tide😊
Center. Chilton County
Actually I think it's more about where is home set and how to set home so that every time I put a jig in my home point is set the same. How do you set a home point that is not default home that just bumps into the corner?
In lightburn, you set the return to location to use between engraves. Try slowing down your move speed in lightburn to avoid wall crashes. Even my old D1 homes really accurately. I have a video on setting the return to location. Just search the keyword return on my channel.
Thank you for bringing that up. Just got light burn and now my machine bangs the side.
@@TheClackShack Thank you for the answer.
Thank you for your help.
Standard grbl firmware (can't speak for xtool) with no switches the "home" location is where the laser is when it powers up. Push it there against the stops before powering up each time should get you the repeatability you're looking for.
How do you know the distance to set the laser?
Distance?
@@TheClackShack I am a complete newbee. My box with XTool 20w Pro was just delivered and sitting in my entry. I was asking about that little piece you put under the laser when adjusting... I see it done in videos but no one ever says what they are doing.
@@sandiehaskell4831 , on the XTool, it has a flip out leg.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
Thanks
starts with saying he will try and make a quick video, continues on for 51 minutes...
Yea, it happens that way sometimes…
well, the other version was 4 hours.
51 minutes of trying to explain something that took this man days or weeks to perfect so that you don’t have to spend the kind of time that he did? Seems like a fair amount of time to me. I for one am grateful for the time that he took to contribute his knowledge to the rest of us!
You need to show a different jig and set up them go back to this same jig and set up. Your not showing a jig that you all ready had made and realignment of the jig. Your not resetting a jig cause it's still set up.
The process is exactly the same. Just open a different file. There is no realignment. Everything is fixed position. The locking panel is fixed to the machine, the jig panel is fixed to the locking panel and the file is saved as it was.
@@TheClackShack …if we use a jig that has been used before and start everything up again cold the software has no idea where the laser is now. How do we realign after the laser has been started in a random position without having homing switches….
@@chucksmalfus9623 didn’t he say he saved it so he could open it again? He homes the laser so it will start at the same place I THINK I will watch for his answer!
@@deannahepner9355 I guess what I asking is how to home the X Tool D1 that doesn’t have switches, anyone who has one knows if you try homing in lightburn it tries to go past the corners and the steppers just rattle horribly.
@@chucksmalfus9623 , home is 0-0 on every machine I am familiar with. Wherever your 0-0 is located is technically home. Even if you do not have limit switches. I design the files in lightburn and recommend using them in lightburn but other software can e used also.
A quick 51 minute video… lol
Yea, you should see the detailed one..
good but to many words for me.. bla bla bla.. ;)
Maybe it just isn’t the channel for you. Have a good day.
Sorry, I had a very bad day then and I was taught to have short and specific sentences. Your RUclips channel has some helpful tips. Thank you p.s. I just bought a Sculpfun S30 pro with a 10W diode laser. What, in your opinion, is the best to cut out any shapes in transparent and white acrylic?
@@logeen , with a diode. I can't find a way to cut it. Engrave with marking by paint or other. To cut, I use a CO2. More specifically a monport 40 watt.
A suggestion.... When you make your holes for a metal blank, leave the wood for 4 or 6 or so interior "stubs", like short timing marks, protruding into the circle, to let the item rest on by engraving them down, using fill, a bit more than the thickness of your item. These recessed INTERIOR "stubs" will then let the item rest below the surface, within the hole, like when you sanded down the circle discs, but, without the WORK.... Just a thought....
You can make them as exact as you want. I just get them to the point to get the job to work.
Good idea to set return to top left after burning. Is that programmed in LB?? Is this position saved in the project file? Thanks for ANOTHER great video... Hank
In lightburn under device settings.
@@TheClackShack Thank you for sharing all of your VALUABLE experience making it much easier to get up to speed in my burning endeavors... I'm CHOMPING at the bit..... My B1 36 will be HERE Tuesday. Yippie Kai Yea...
P.S. Instead of deleting the jig project at about 10:29 how about changing the jig outline to a TOOL layer so you can see where/how many items to cut?? When I made my pencil jig, I kept the total board layout with cutouts shown, but, changed that cut layer to a TOOL layer to still see what is going on. Just easier for me and YMMV....
That works too, or turn off that layer