I know we sometimes take different approaches to solving a problem cause I’m only an adopted Alabama boy but I really like and enjoy the way you do things and I learn something with every video. Thanks!
When it comes to leveling things, modeling clay is your buddy. Someone else may have mentioned it but I'm too lazy to read all the comments (owning my 💩). Got this idea from a manufacturer's video ... nope, don't remember which one. I used it on a knife sheath that was all kinds of funky angles and it worked great. Non hardening is best because you can use it over and over. Thanks for another great video.
Looking good. A little tip to remove pencil lead is to use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol. Try to avoid using your pencil eraser as they leave a residue behind.
Nice work on the custom box. That is one nice option on my larger Co2 laser is swapping focus lenses for a longer length to get able to get the moving head higher above the workpiece. However, it's not a $300-$400 machine. As you say, you can do a lot with multiple machines running. I've also enjoyed not having to spin up the large laser for a single job that the smaller 20w Diode can handle in just a little more time than the Co2.
So Great to see the process of you figuring out how to lay out the center of the box lid and the inside of the lid. And talk about detail! i could see the individual grass under the quail! Love your videos, even when you are using the Co2 lasers, ( i have the diode ) i still learn something, about lightburn or some great tip. Thank you for all your time of videoing and editing etc.
For the inside of that box lid. I just cut out a perfectly fit piece of 1/4" plywood, engraved it, and then glued it inside the lid. A lot less hassle, and a better result.
Nice work on the inside. Doing the inside of that lid gives me another reason to cut the bottom end off my Astomstack S7 laser, bums me out when laser hits a popped small cutout piece...
I have a silly question. How do I do a setting test if I only have a one-of-a-kind item to engrave on? I will watch this next. Material cut testing for wood. Also do you take into account the kirf on your jigs? D1 pro on the way!!
The easiest and safest thing for the inside box lid would be to measure the inside of the box, nut a piece of 3mm ply, burn your design then glue it inside the lid, no one is the wiser.
I realize that there would be an additional cost involved, but, could you have done the interior on a piexe of 1/16" play and cut and inset it in to the lid?
Comgrow Comgo Z1 with available 5W/10W Laser Modules. Nice 105mm Z travel on the Laser Head… 🎉😂😮 But I HATE having to move the bolts to get the full travel. Still designing my Z-axis Adjustable and Bladed Quick Change Mount so I can switch between my 5W and 10W Heads and it will adjust for the different dimensions of the two heads so the laser beam point is the same between changes… Cause it’s NOT with the Standard Slide Mount. 😂
@@TheClackShack Drives me crazy. I do a lot of changing from short stuff on Spoil board to cutting on Comgrow's smaller Honeycomb to the Rotary narrow and wide Tumblers and glasses and each one needs a different bolt hole/height. I try to batch them up to minimize the height adjustments but I chance at least 4 time a day. And knob adjustable mount would just need some turns to go up and down the whole 105mm range (or more if you're designing from scratch ;-) ) and if you switch between the 5W and 10W module you quickly learn they are different dimensions so the laser focus point moves laterally as well as up/down. The 5W is a better Engraver and the 10W is a better Cutter Even though they are both .08x.08mm. Can't figure out why but I've tested since I have them both.
Haven't played around with different DPI settings. (I have a D1 10W) How do you determine what DPI setting to use? Why not just leave it at 317 for a .08 laser?
The higher the DPI or LPI, it affects the burn time on images. Some mediums do better with different settings. Its really just a preference to me. Higher numbers give smoother results, lower number make speed faster. I try to find the sweet spot where spped is maximized but quality isnt affected.
I really enjoy the time you take to explain the things you are doing in your videos. If you keep it up, I’ll keep watching. Thank you.
I plan to keep it coming. Thanks
I know we sometimes take different approaches to solving a problem cause I’m only an adopted Alabama boy but I really like and enjoy the way you do things and I learn something with every video. Thanks!
Thanks
Appreciated seeing how you solved getting inside the box and also discussed other alternatives to solving that problem
Thanks. I hope it helps
When it comes to leveling things, modeling clay is your buddy. Someone else may have mentioned it but I'm too lazy to read all the comments (owning my 💩). Got this idea from a manufacturer's video ... nope, don't remember which one. I used it on a knife sheath that was all kinds of funky angles and it worked great. Non hardening is best because you can use it over and over. Thanks for another great video.
I have used it before.. thanks.
Glad to hear you get done at 2100. Caught this around 0300 here in California. The box turned out great!
Thanks
Looking good. A little tip to remove pencil lead is to use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol. Try to avoid using your pencil eraser as they leave a residue behind.
Thanks
Nice work on the custom box. That is one nice option on my larger Co2 laser is swapping focus lenses for a longer length to get able to get the moving head higher above the workpiece. However, it's not a $300-$400 machine. As you say, you can do a lot with multiple machines running. I've also enjoyed not having to spin up the large laser for a single job that the smaller 20w Diode can handle in just a little more time than the Co2.
Making what I have work. Less overhead means more profit.. thanks
So Great to see the process of you figuring out how to lay out the center of the box lid and the inside of the lid. And talk about detail! i could see the individual grass under the quail! Love your videos, even when you are using the Co2 lasers, ( i have the diode ) i still learn something, about lightburn or some great tip. Thank you for all your time of videoing and editing etc.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
Thanks for helping me out with my issue last night watching the video I can see that you had a lot to do and I appreciate the time
No problem
Hold your ruler across surface at an angle to get to two whole numbers. Much easier to find center.
Sure
Great video! I enjoy watching the walkthrough and your thought process. Keep the videos coming.
Gonna try, thanks for watching…
For the inside of that box lid. I just cut out a perfectly fit piece of 1/4" plywood, engraved it, and then glued it inside the lid. A lot less hassle, and a better result.
Better is a matter of perspective.. .
Instead of trying to level the box lid turn the box on it’s back with the lid flat on the honeycomb nice job I like how that the box turned out. 😁🛫
Sure
@@TheClackShack we all look at things in a different way!
Nice work on the inside. Doing the inside of that lid gives me another reason to cut the bottom end off my Astomstack S7 laser, bums me out when laser hits a popped small cutout piece...
Yea, Sometimes clearance is needed.
Great video and insight, could not agree more with diversifying!
Thanks
I use a piece of scrap of the same material to get the effect I want in place of the project beforehand.
Good idea
Another Great video! I do enjoy your content. Thanks
I appreciate that!
Would it have been easier to burn a piece of veneer and glue it in?
This wasn't hard to do. That's not what the customer wanted and I don't like the idea either. I prefer this approach.
LOL, call Maymay and have her come over. She will show what the Wizard is doing behind the “curtain”…
I’m sure
I have a silly question. How do I do a setting test if I only have a one-of-a-kind item to engrave on? I will watch this next. Material cut testing for wood. Also do you take into account the kirf on your jigs? D1 pro on the way!!
You don’t you have to guesstimate…. I have it happen a lot. No,burn as is. If you get them too tight, they won’t work right
Thanks!
Thank you very much…
The easiest and safest thing for the inside box lid would be to measure the inside of the box, nut a piece of 3mm ply, burn your design then glue it inside the lid, no one is the wiser.
I wanted it on the box.
Have you seen a video using Borax to make burns darker
Yes, and I have tried it. It just makes darker ash. Also had issues with it discoloring some of my specialty woods.
I realize that there would be an additional cost involved, but, could you have done the interior on a piexe of 1/16" play and cut and inset it in to the lid?
Could have but not my style. Then the rest of the box wouldn’t match the inside of the lid.
@@TheClackShack Figured that you had probably thought about it, and dismissed it for some reason, now, I know the reason :)
@@UncleRons_3D_Pub , I have had burns that were far more difficult to get to. Try engraving the inside of a lid on a cedar chest...
I don’t know what you do for your day job but thank you so much for doing all of these videos for us! Aloha
@@leannewheeler4192 , Thanks.. Glad to help
How about for the inside you engrave on a thin piece of wood and glue it to the inside of the lid. Nobody will ever know.
I would know... What is the challenge in that? lol
Comgrow Comgo Z1 with available 5W/10W Laser Modules. Nice 105mm Z travel on the Laser Head… 🎉😂😮
But I HATE having to move the bolts to get the full travel.
Still designing my Z-axis Adjustable and Bladed Quick Change Mount so I can switch between my 5W and 10W Heads and it will adjust for the different dimensions of the two heads so the laser beam point is the same between changes… Cause it’s NOT with the Standard Slide Mount. 😂
No more than I have to change it, really isn’t a big bother.
@@TheClackShack Drives me crazy. I do a lot of changing from short stuff on Spoil board to cutting on Comgrow's smaller Honeycomb to the Rotary narrow and wide Tumblers and glasses and each one needs a different bolt hole/height. I try to batch them up to minimize the height adjustments but I chance at least 4 time a day. And knob adjustable mount would just need some turns to go up and down the whole 105mm range (or more if you're designing from scratch ;-) ) and if you switch between the 5W and 10W module you quickly learn they are different dimensions so the laser focus point moves laterally as well as up/down. The 5W is a better Engraver and the 10W is a better Cutter Even though they are both .08x.08mm. Can't figure out why but I've tested since I have them both.
If you want to find the center of a rectangle without doing math then just put your ruler from corned to corner....
Yep, that works too. unless its round.. lol
Haven't played around with different DPI settings. (I have a D1 10W) How do you determine what DPI setting to use? Why not just leave it at 317 for a .08 laser?
The higher the DPI or LPI, it affects the burn time on images. Some mediums do better with different settings. Its really just a preference to me. Higher numbers give smoother results, lower number make speed faster. I try to find the sweet spot where spped is maximized but quality isnt affected.