Thank you for taking the time out of your life to share your knowledge and research with the rest of us. I find it that your videos are organized and presented in a manner that is easy to understand and follow. I also appreciate that you focus on the subject at hand and not boast about how amazing you are ( You are of course) like some other RUclipsrs present themselves. I will visit your online stores and make some purchase in order to support you in a very small way as a Thank you for what you do. I wish you continued success and happiness.
Thanks, I am just another maker, like everyone I am still learning, Thanks for your kind words. It makes it much more fun to think that I am actually helping folks....
In the last live someome mentioned you becoming an engineer, but you laughed and said you just want to retire and be in the clack shack. Does that mean you have dec8ded to not go back? Or is it too early to say outloud? You had such a big smile as you were saying it! I was living for retirement and did it 1.5 years ago. And like you, am never bored because i am always in my craft space. And adding a laser to my repertoire has added even more fun to my time . (Although its upstairs in the dining room with 2 of my husbands 3D printers) its wonderful to have hobbies we enjoy and can share with others. Thank you for sharing your ideas, and projects. Its a lot of work. You are a great speaker! Sending wishes of a very immediate post op recovery on Mon!
Nice batch of testing. It's still good to test what's available locally, and even then, I've found one sheet cuts great, and then the next of the same SKU can be junk. Always factor wasted material and time into your end product's cost.
Good info..... I have the xtool d1pro 20 watt, I have done the "belt test" with the caliper as you showed in a video (I have watched all of them now) I have purchased your jigs for the layout for the snap top and the jigs for the the 3 different sizes with a centering jig... also considering I have the honeycomb, I also purchased the "lift jig" to set the honeycomb into... I am on my 4th time trying to get this cut out of Lowe's 1/4 laun (same one you are showing). I have used 7,5,3 speeds @ 100% single pass on my laser on each time I try to cut this file about 1/4" on the left side of each of the pieces there is a spot that "jumps" over about 1-2mm and then continues up that same line joining none of the left hand corners.. and the further right and to the bottom the pattern goes the worse it gets to the point you can't make out the letters of the piece you are making. I am using the magnets suggested by xtool that cost a fortune... and I am using their program transferring the file as dxf. At 7speed it just scores the luan.... at 5 speed you can see some black lines on the back and at 3 speed it starts a flame and machine shuts down... AM I DOING SOMETHING WRONG?? Is it because I am using their programing while you are creating these files with lightburn? I look forward to any help you can send my direction... I would really like to keep this machine but my hopes are dwindling...
Is this happening at the extreme left edge? Because at least on my machine (D1 10w) lightburn shows the workspace too far to the left. Since the crosshairs for lining up your project are on the left side of the laser module it will reach the left edge of the workspace, however the actual laser will not. So in reality you can frame something with the crosshairs just fine but when the laser starts it will only go so far to the left which then throws the rest off. It took me a good while to figure out why my projects were failing. Hope this helps.
@@grantscouten4267 Sounds like tthe pointer offset is the issue. You have to install config file for xTool to work with lightburn. I have heard of it not taking the first time. Follow along with this and see if it fixes it, ruclips.net/video/TSCWM9hhwAU/видео.html
Thank you so much for this video! I don't know anything about the different wood and I am new to the laser world so this video was very informative. Thank you so much!
I've found I get an average 10-15% failure rate on Home Depot wood, which to me is acceptable since it's so much cheaper than the nicer stuff you can order. Most of the failures are from hollow areas in the wood, scotching on the underside or sometimes some visible melted glue- those areas have trouble penetrating all the way through. A lot is due to my limited power- 10 watt so it has to run pretty slow when cutting thicker stuff. When it comes to hardware store Wood I do really like the the 1/4 inch/5.2mm Sandeply, it is very soft and has a lower failure rate than the 5mm underlayment, which has a lot of invisible knots in the center layer, the glue isn't as evenly spread and isn't spread as evenly between the layers so it has a higher failure rate, but it's also harder and the 3 layers of the 5mm underlayment are the same thickness unlike the sandeply which has a thick middle layer with a thin top/bottom- you might even call it a veneer. I haven't tried mdf yet, but that's next on my to-do list when I have time. The one thing that kinda irks me about all the plywood- it warps and I have to scrap a small percentage of my stuff due to that too- thicker plywood doesn't as much, but now I'm just rambling, you probably already know this! Just to add- there is a fair bit of variation in thicknesses with either of the woods I mentioned above- both of them range from 4.8mm up to 5.4 ish, so keep that in mind as well- failure rates may not have anything to do with your settings, it's almost always the wood for me- the stuff I order that's made for lazing has nearly a 100% success rate for me, but it costs more- it's a trade off of either Money or Time when it comes to this stuff, if you've got time the hardwares store stuff works great- it's really good for prototyping and learning, also good for production as well if you're not too worried about having to scrap a few of your burns.
@@TheClackShack One of the things on my to-do list is to source wood locally. There's just so much to do to open a new shop that I just haven't had time since I have materials for now. I feel I'm in a bit over my head learning how to monetize things like this- designing the projects and burning the work is the easy part! Luckily I only have to learn this stuff once though, then things should get a bit easier. I gave you a sub and have liked all the vids I've seen so far! Great Channel. Take care!
Great video thank you so much. I paint poplar white and then engrave, but I am getting a lot of sap for some reason and I find it hard to remove any suggestions.
We use a lot of revolution ply 1/4 which comes in at around 4.5mm. It does have fillers so we lose a bit of material and time but we tried different plywood from Lowe's and the others had a lot more fillers :S
I love your videos and have learned a lot from them! I'm new to lasers, I have a Roly Lasermatic 10/30W machine. Could you do a video showing how to clean and prepare a project once it's cut to be able to market it? When I'm using the 30W setting I get more burning in places and need to make the projects more presentable. Also, do you normally add a finish to your items you sell or leave them 'as is'?
I will be purchasing an OMTech 80 watt engraver near the end of December. Do you have an engraver close to that power to do a test grid? I will buy the 20”x28” engraving area. I’m looking to make living hinge projects. I will be cutting a lot of projects using Poplar.
Great video! You got me thinking about projects that I would like to try that I don't need to plan ahead, just run into Lowe's in town and grab materials. Could you make a video (you may have already, I just got my Falcon 2 40w and have just started exploring laser cutting/engraving videos, i you do a link or a title would be appreciated) on some of your process/settings for engraving images with diode lasers? Your "quick test" engravings in this video are better than most that I've seen, certainly better than what I've managed following recommendations in some of the videos that came to the top doing searches. Also, do you have any recommendations of forums/groups... that are active and a good place to ask questions? I've had very limited luck with the Creality-specific ones that I've tried so far. Definitely subscribing and heading off to your "Woodworking with the Xtool..." and "Three methods of engraving baseballs" videos.
Thanks.. my BEST SETTINGS.. video goes over using lightburn tests. We have a Facebook group LASER ENGRAVING COMMUNITY that has a lot of knowledgeable folks.
Outstanding video. I have a 10W diode laser and have shied away from the 1/4" hardwoods. After watching the entire video I checked the Oak at my local Lowes and I have to say for the price I think it behooves me to buy one and do some testing. Your video inspired me to step beyond the 3mm baltic birch even if it means doing more testing than I have in the past. 👍👍👍👍👍
Dear sir! I just bought a Longer 30 watt laser two week ago was running fine even cut one of your gigs out. the next day I came out to the shop went to run one of my files and the machine was going to the far right corner and hitting the rail. When I would turn it on it would go home to bottom left. and the jog buttons are backwards. I lost power that night I don't know if that did anything.
Thanks for your time and effort, maybe a Home Depot tour after you recoup your expenses. Just got your P2 files from Etsy and extension kit to build. Would be interested in dimensions and cuts for your big enclosure. Would only need from floor of enclosure up as no option for lift and storage. Bottom 4x4 -- back 49 1/2” Height for camera ? . Measurement from back to angle ? Maybe just a note on return email? I have all you Etsy products for Xtool D1 and trying for P2 extended with your help and a great appreciation for your time and effort on RUclips.
Here is the drawing that I made. facebook.com/download/515582043981617/Enclosurezilla%20design.pdf?av=100075606620798&eav=AfbUzF-uVTkP3nXBhhHOQAaNnfoLSmHcSCeb4hEfzdQD84fwOP5WptnV2hTTcHblcWY&paipv=0&hash=AcpNQoCJmkBRINpIxBU&__cft__[0]=AZVUOHr_7PLnePRoz-ePwFP8YnyNiNLpBZ1yMJgdI3QvTFK01rj0Yj_QUbdxURierqrNA_4-rvRjUxkqtml6HyQM3kW0eAz-iP0yOydnFmim6E_jOHBJ9EupZtToP9JLsDPYRYFgLpYk_00vYxHJV5wwI2pvRCN5kk0PxYCjaYLPiA&__tn__=H-R
I avoid breathing any fumes from my lasers and I vent outdoors away from others. As always, avoid breathing fumes from any type of fires. We are all responsible for making decisions about our own safety.
Air assist, honeycomb, proper focus and never go below 5mm/s or 300 mm/m even if you have to make multiple passes. Also, make sure your lens is clean and not damaged if this is a recent development.
Good review. My only concern is that some home improvement stores source their wood products by region, so what you get there may not be what I can get here. Offers a nice jumping in point regardless.
I find the thickness interesting I've been noticing about that myself at lowes. Bought some primer today they advertise as alcohol based but yet it swelled the grain of my wood. Alcohol doesn't do that but yet they advertise it as alcohol based. So, I get to looking and one of the things that I found was that Lowes has gotten sued for millions because they are mislabeling their wood. Every time I buy wood from there they advertise it as one thing but it is actually another size and that includes the 2x4's. In your case they advertised the thickness as 5.2 mm but yet it was 4.6mm. I would think they are charging you for 5.2 mm's, saving a buck and then over selling it to you. I din't think its a coincidence and should not be chalked up to error on their part. They know exactly what they are doing. And in my case, they misadvertised the primer I bout as alcohol based but alcohol doesn't swell up wood so it cost me dearly.
I want to caution anyone who purchases birch plywood from Lowe's to carefully inspect it. The last purchase I made contained a layer of fiberglass. This is very low quality material that I wouldn't used for anything other than prototyping.
Are all these materials “laser safe”? Everything I’ve read suggests that cutting any old plywood on a laser is a bad idea. Everything from the adhesives giving off toxic fumes to smoke residue gumming up the laser.
I wouldn't suggest inhaling the fumes from any material. The vapors from lasers contain tiny particles that are not good to breath. You have to make decisions about your health but I run enclosed machines in my shop with exhaust. Any material will gum up a machine if you do not do maintenance. I would be careful even with "laser safe" materials. Laser safe can be just a reason to charge more without any difference. Kinda like "free range eggs"...
Settings not advised to use his at all. As a laser professional, don’t go based on his settings. Just do you own test results. Honestly wasting time in the video trying to show the engrave settings is time well spent giving more info about the materials. I’d compare your results to other results you’ve done before rather than trying to give the settings.
I always advise to do your own testing. Those new to the craft can use my setting to ball park a test of their own. It is my time to waste and many people ask questions about materials. Thanks for your concern. You can do you, I will do me.
Really appreciate the work you did for this video. Materials are the ongoing expense!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing this info.... Extremely helpful! I welcome more videos where you are testing different materials.
Thank you! Will do!
Thank you for taking the time out of your life to share your knowledge and research with the rest of us. I find it that your videos are organized and presented in a manner that is easy to understand and follow. I also appreciate that you focus on the subject at hand and not boast about how amazing you are ( You are of course) like some other RUclipsrs present themselves. I will visit your online stores and make some purchase in order to support you in a very small way as a Thank you for what you do. I wish you continued success and happiness.
Thanks, I am just another maker, like everyone I am still learning, Thanks for your kind words. It makes it much more fun to think that I am actually helping folks....
3:00 - Lauan
6:15 - Blonde wood Plywood
8:45 - Birch Plywood
11:20 - Poplar
13:56 - Pine
16:20 - Oak
Thanks
Definitely helpful as I’m a newbie! Thank you! I’m looking for your test cut video as this is what I struggle with the most!
ruclips.net/video/8FGEEacHYkQ/видео.html
Thanks for another great video. Hope and praying your surgery went well.
I pulled through… time will tell if it worked
HA! Looking for the test grids now
Under laser tools.
Thanks for the review. I thought you might be at the Shrimp Festival in Gulf Shores this weekend.
Can't go anywhere until this back thing is resolved..
I get it. I'm waiting on a hip replacement myself.@@TheClackShack
Great information about materials and what be their best uses.
Glad it was helpful!
Great content! Was wondering about using Lowes materials the other day. Very convenient since it's 5 minutes away. Thanks for the great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Great content! Love how you mix it up, not just review videos, I just got my 3D printer today ,took you advice and got the same one you got .
Thanks, I have been making some stuff for the shop today and it is handy. It isn't a speed demon but I am getting some good parts.
Great video and review of the different woods. I have 2 Lowes, both within 25mi of me so I'll be looking. Keep on, keeping on!
I plan to. thanks
The blondewood plywood is primed on one side. It's a thin application so it might not be obvious.
That explains the really white appearance
Thanks for the video. Yes, it’s useful to me. I enjoy your project videos, but informative ones like this are good too.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video! Could you do one comparing HDF. MDF, and chipboard? I have a We creat 40w diode with an additional 2watype IR head too
I have many other videos comparing different materials. Generally I only use MDF with lasers and cnc.
In the last live someome mentioned you becoming an engineer, but you laughed and said you just want to retire and be in the clack shack. Does that mean you have dec8ded to not go back? Or is it too early to say outloud? You had such a big smile as you were saying it! I was living for retirement and did it 1.5 years ago. And like you, am never bored because i am always in my craft space. And adding a laser to my repertoire has added even more fun to my time . (Although its upstairs in the dining room with 2 of my husbands 3D printers) its wonderful to have hobbies we enjoy and can share with others. Thank you for sharing your ideas, and projects. Its a lot of work. You are a great speaker! Sending wishes of a very immediate post op recovery on Mon!
One year and 11 months to go.... I AM gonna go as soon as I can...
Nice batch of testing. It's still good to test what's available locally, and even then, I've found one sheet cuts great, and then the next of the same SKU can be junk. Always factor wasted material and time into your end product's cost.
Agreed
Hello from Oklahoma Thank you for all you do and get well soon
Thanks and welcome
This was extremely helpful information. Thank you! I really appreciate your videos.
You are so welcome!
I love the woodgrain shirt. Where did you find that?
A local friend of mine made it. facebook.com/LittleBitAStyle
Good info..... I have the xtool d1pro 20 watt, I have done the "belt test" with the caliper as you showed in a video (I have watched all of them now) I have purchased your jigs for the layout for the snap top and the jigs for the the 3 different sizes with a centering jig... also considering I have the honeycomb, I also purchased the "lift jig" to set the honeycomb into... I am on my 4th time trying to get this cut out of Lowe's 1/4 laun (same one you are showing). I have used 7,5,3 speeds @ 100% single pass on my laser on each time I try to cut this file about 1/4" on the left side of each of the pieces there is a spot that "jumps" over about 1-2mm and then continues up that same line joining none of the left hand corners.. and the further right and to the bottom the pattern goes the worse it gets to the point you can't make out the letters of the piece you are making. I am using the magnets suggested by xtool that cost a fortune... and I am using their program transferring the file as dxf. At 7speed it just scores the luan.... at 5 speed you can see some black lines on the back and at 3 speed it starts a flame and machine shuts down... AM I DOING SOMETHING WRONG?? Is it because I am using their programing while you are creating these files with lightburn? I look forward to any help you can send my direction... I would really like to keep this machine but my hopes are dwindling...
Sounds like a belt tension or timing issue. That flame sensor is annoying.. Also, make sure you are focusing properly.
Is this happening at the extreme left edge? Because at least on my machine (D1 10w) lightburn shows the workspace too far to the left. Since the crosshairs for lining up your project are on the left side of the laser module it will reach the left edge of the workspace, however the actual laser will not. So in reality you can frame something with the crosshairs just fine but when the laser starts it will only go so far to the left which then throws the rest off. It took me a good while to figure out why my projects were failing. Hope this helps.
@@grantscouten4267 Sounds like tthe pointer offset is the issue. You have to install config file for xTool to work with lightburn. I have heard of it not taking the first time. Follow along with this and see if it fixes it,
ruclips.net/video/TSCWM9hhwAU/видео.html
Love this content, very helpful. Thank you for your time.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this video! I don't know anything about the different wood and I am new to the laser world so this video was very informative. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome!
I've found I get an average 10-15% failure rate on Home Depot wood, which to me is acceptable since it's so much cheaper than the nicer stuff you can order. Most of the failures are from hollow areas in the wood, scotching on the underside or sometimes some visible melted glue- those areas have trouble penetrating all the way through. A lot is due to my limited power- 10 watt so it has to run pretty slow when cutting thicker stuff.
When it comes to hardware store Wood I do really like the the 1/4 inch/5.2mm Sandeply, it is very soft and has a lower failure rate than the 5mm underlayment, which has a lot of invisible knots in the center layer, the glue isn't as evenly spread and isn't spread as evenly between the layers so it has a higher failure rate, but it's also harder and the 3 layers of the 5mm underlayment are the same thickness unlike the sandeply which has a thick middle layer with a thin top/bottom- you might even call it a veneer. I haven't tried mdf yet, but that's next on my to-do list when I have time. The one thing that kinda irks me about all the plywood- it warps and I have to scrap a small percentage of my stuff due to that too- thicker plywood doesn't as much, but now I'm just rambling, you probably already know this!
Just to add- there is a fair bit of variation in thicknesses with either of the woods I mentioned above- both of them range from 4.8mm up to 5.4 ish, so keep that in mind as well- failure rates may not have anything to do with your settings, it's almost always the wood for me- the stuff I order that's made for lazing has nearly a 100% success rate for me, but it costs more- it's a trade off of either Money or Time when it comes to this stuff, if you've got time the hardwares store stuff works great- it's really good for prototyping and learning, also good for production as well if you're not too worried about having to scrap a few of your burns.
Yea, I am lucky and have a local store that has some pretty awesome stuff for about $16 a sheet.
@@TheClackShack One of the things on my to-do list is to source wood locally. There's just so much to do to open a new shop that I just haven't had time since I have materials for now. I feel I'm in a bit over my head learning how to monetize things like this- designing the projects and burning the work is the easy part! Luckily I only have to learn this stuff once though, then things should get a bit easier. I gave you a sub and have liked all the vids I've seen so far! Great Channel. Take care!
Awesome and informative video. Any suggestions on what to use for finishing and sealing coasters?
I use spray on poly
@@TheClackShack Thank you sir.
Thank ypu for all the information, very beneficial for a newbie!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for the great info.
Thanks for watching..
Great video thank you so much. I paint poplar white and then engrave, but I am getting a lot of sap for some reason and I find it hard to remove any suggestions.
Masking will help.. I use painters tape on vector designs.
Thank you!!!! I know nothing about wood so this was extremely helpful!
Great information. Just got my xtool d1 . 20w pro . Where can I find the tests for the birch plywood cutting and engraving
XCS and lightburn have test grid tools built in.
Thanks for the research, it helps so much!
Glad it was helpful!
We use a lot of revolution ply 1/4 which comes in at around 4.5mm. It does have fillers so we lose a bit of material and time but we tried different plywood from Lowe's and the others had a lot more fillers :S
I find that price makes it a usable material for most jobs if you just take it slow.
That is amazing. Thank you so much for your help 🙏
Thanks for watching, glad you liked it
I love your videos and have learned a lot from them! I'm new to lasers, I have a Roly Lasermatic 10/30W machine. Could you do a video showing how to clean and prepare a project once it's cut to be able to market it? When I'm using the 30W setting I get more burning in places and need to make the projects more presentable. Also, do you normally add a finish to your items you sell or leave them 'as is'?
I will work on a video for that. It depends on the item, some I finish
I will be purchasing an OMTech 80 watt engraver near the end of December. Do you have an engraver close to that power to do a test grid? I will buy the 20”x28” engraving area. I’m looking to make living hinge projects. I will be cutting a lot of projects using Poplar.
Closest thing I have is a 40 watt CO2. Sorry
What are your thoughts about cutting/engraving MDF? Both tempered hardboard and melamine white?
It takes multiple passes to cut?
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! You got me thinking about projects that I would like to try that I don't need to plan ahead, just run into Lowe's in town and grab materials.
Could you make a video (you may have already, I just got my Falcon 2 40w and have just started exploring laser cutting/engraving videos, i you do a link or a title would be appreciated) on some of your process/settings for engraving images with diode lasers? Your "quick test" engravings in this video are better than most that I've seen, certainly better than what I've managed following recommendations in some of the videos that came to the top doing searches.
Also, do you have any recommendations of forums/groups... that are active and a good place to ask questions? I've had very limited luck with the Creality-specific ones that I've tried so far.
Definitely subscribing and heading off to your "Woodworking with the Xtool..." and "Three methods of engraving baseballs" videos.
Thanks.. my BEST SETTINGS.. video goes over using lightburn tests. We have a Facebook group LASER ENGRAVING COMMUNITY that has a lot of knowledgeable folks.
@@TheClackShack Thanks!
Can you tell me where I can get some of the testing grids that you use?
There is a link in the video description to a video of how to create them in lightburn.
Did you use air assist when cutting these? You have very little burning on the outside of the cut.
I run air assist on everything. Yes, I have my machines set up to minimize charring
Good video, thanks for the research! From a brother in Az.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching
will you be making jigs for the S1
The way it works, I already have. Just some carpenters tape to the bottom pan.
@@TheClackShack will the file, and future files be on your Etsy store. I watched that video. I wanna do batch cards, tags, things like that
Sure would be nice to have values in inches since many of us use that measurement.
The laser world has converted me... Sorry. I use inches on most stuff but the lasers I find that MM is easier to design with.
Yeah I agree with Clack, lasers and 3d printers it’s all about metric measurements.
Ever since getting into 3D, CNC, and laser, I've gone metric, too. Good bye fractions, inches, and feet. Life's easier this way.
While I like my freedom units, I understand that the majority of the world has a different measuring system. Thankfully Google can quickly translate!
@@yoderwoodworks5073 if you have an Android phone, unit conversions are built in. On Samsung anyway. Tap the ruler symbol. I use this all the time.
Outstanding video. I have a 10W diode laser and have shied away from the 1/4" hardwoods. After watching the entire video I checked the Oak at my local Lowes and I have to say for the price I think it behooves me to buy one and do some testing. Your video inspired me to step beyond the 3mm baltic birch even if it means doing more testing than I have in the past. 👍👍👍👍👍
It may take more passes but you can cut this with a 10 watt with the right settings.
Dear sir! I just bought a Longer 30 watt laser two week ago was running fine even cut one of your gigs out.
the next day I came out to the shop went to run one of my files and the machine was going to the far right corner and hitting the rail.
When I would turn it on it would go home to bottom left. and the jog buttons are backwards. I lost power that night I don't know if that did anything.
Sounds like the controller settings have gotten corrupted some how or your origin is set wrong. Confirm the origin setting in lightburn is correct.
Really helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
.
Thanks for your time and effort, maybe a Home Depot tour after you recoup your expenses.
Just got your P2 files from Etsy and extension kit to build. Would be interested in dimensions and cuts for your big enclosure. Would only need from floor of enclosure up as no option for lift and storage.
Bottom 4x4 -- back 49 1/2” Height for camera ? . Measurement from back to angle ? Maybe just a note on return email? I have all you Etsy products for Xtool D1 and trying for P2 extended with your help and a great appreciation for your time and effort on RUclips.
Here is the drawing that I made. facebook.com/download/515582043981617/Enclosurezilla%20design.pdf?av=100075606620798&eav=AfbUzF-uVTkP3nXBhhHOQAaNnfoLSmHcSCeb4hEfzdQD84fwOP5WptnV2hTTcHblcWY&paipv=0&hash=AcpNQoCJmkBRINpIxBU&__cft__[0]=AZVUOHr_7PLnePRoz-ePwFP8YnyNiNLpBZ1yMJgdI3QvTFK01rj0Yj_QUbdxURierqrNA_4-rvRjUxkqtml6HyQM3kW0eAz-iP0yOydnFmim6E_jOHBJ9EupZtToP9JLsDPYRYFgLpYk_00vYxHJV5wwI2pvRCN5kk0PxYCjaYLPiA&__tn__=H-R
I've seen many make the statement you shouldn't use wood that contains glue, which all plywood does. Your thoughts on the glue issue and burning it ??
I avoid breathing any fumes from my lasers and I vent outdoors away from others. As always, avoid breathing fumes from any type of fires. We are all responsible for making decisions about our own safety.
I’m using the xtool d1 pro 20w and with cutting I keep having fire problems. Cutting pine plywood. Do you have any recommendations?
Air assist, honeycomb, proper focus and never go below 5mm/s or 300 mm/m even if you have to make multiple passes. Also, make sure your lens is clean and not damaged if this is a recent development.
Great video, thanks!!!
You are welcome!
Good review. My only concern is that some home improvement stores source their wood products by region, so what you get there may not be what I can get here. Offers a nice jumping in point regardless.
That is why I added the specific product to the description. I also recommend doing your own testing.
What would be the best laser machine for cowhide?
It all the diodes I have tested does a good job with leather
What is the size of the blanks are those please?
The size should be on the links below
Not sure I am following, I cut the plywood up before engraving
Do all these products cut with diode or only c02 laser. I have a WeCreat
No, I use diodes on most
@@TheClackShack thank you
I find the thickness interesting I've been noticing about that myself at lowes. Bought some primer today they advertise as alcohol based but yet it swelled the grain of my wood. Alcohol doesn't do that but yet they advertise it as alcohol based. So, I get to looking and one of the things that I found was that Lowes has gotten sued for millions because they are mislabeling their wood. Every time I buy wood from there they advertise it as one thing but it is actually another size and that includes the 2x4's.
In your case they advertised the thickness as 5.2 mm but yet it was 4.6mm. I would think they are charging you for 5.2 mm's, saving a buck and then over selling it to you. I din't think its a coincidence and should not be chalked up to error on their part. They know exactly what they are doing.
And in my case, they misadvertised the primer I bout as alcohol based but alcohol doesn't swell up wood so it cost me dearly.
Yea, I try really hard to find good materials but sometimes you are at the mercy of availability.
Most mine comes from Lowes and Dollar Tree
Cool
I want to caution anyone who purchases birch plywood from Lowe's to carefully inspect it. The last purchase I made contained a layer of fiberglass. This is very low quality material that I wouldn't used for anything other than prototyping.
I use it for more than just prototyping. It has some good uses in my opinion.
Are all these materials “laser safe”? Everything I’ve read suggests that cutting any old plywood on a laser is a bad idea. Everything from the adhesives giving off toxic fumes to smoke residue gumming up the laser.
I wouldn't suggest inhaling the fumes from any material. The vapors from lasers contain tiny particles that are not good to breath. You have to make decisions about your health but I run enclosed machines in my shop with exhaust. Any material will gum up a machine if you do not do maintenance. I would be careful even with "laser safe" materials. Laser safe can be just a reason to charge more without any difference. Kinda like "free range eggs"...
Veery informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey! very helpful and thank you for the great videos!
Thanks, Glad it was helpful...
HOBBY LOBBY
They have some cool stuff also
Settings not advised to use his at all. As a laser professional, don’t go based on his settings. Just do you own test results. Honestly wasting time in the video trying to show the engrave settings is time well spent giving more info about the materials. I’d compare your results to other results you’ve done before rather than trying to give the settings.
I always advise to do your own testing. Those new to the craft can use my setting to ball park a test of their own. It is my time to waste and many people ask questions about materials. Thanks for your concern. You can do you, I will do me.