Freaking genius. I never like to separate ball joints if I don't have to. Don't want to risk tearing the boot. This method worked seamlessly on a 95 Accord. Arigato Andy.
This is the best video I have found for replacing the steering rack boot. The amount of detail was perfect, and the technique to preserve the alignment is very effective. I completed this today on my 2017 Ram 1500. The alignment preservation seemed to work very well. On a test drive following the boot replacement, steering feel was good. Going on a straight stretch, the steering wheel seemed to be a little off center., very slightly to the right. It may have been that way "before", I did not do a pre-evaluation. Anyway, I'll probably get the alignment checked. I had two minor challenges through the replacement process. The scariest one was when I tried to loosen the jam nut. It was super tight and I really struggled to break it loose. I ended up adding some pipe extensions to the two wrenches, the extra leverage was enough to break loose the stuck nut. The other thing was after I installed the new boot, rethreaded the jam nut, and started to rethread the tie rod into the tie rod end, I notice the new boot was twisting. I had used a zip tie at the large end and reused the metal clamp at the outboard small end. These were apparently tight enough to keep the new boot from slipping. So I took the metal clamp off and the small end was able to rotate freely. I even remembered to put he clamp back on after the rethreading was completed. After a bit when I saw it dangling there. Very happy with this methodology, it was doable and not too extremely difficult! Thanks for making this video available!
Thanks very much for the positive feedback Dan. The "wheel alignment preservation technique" is to keep the alignment similar to before so you can drive your vehicle to an alignment specialist (without causing excessive tyre wear) to check the alignment, or to check adjust it yourself using the string alignment method. I find it very annoying when my steering wheel isn't straight when driving in a straight line, but it won't take much to sort that out. I can imagine the Ram 1500 has very large tie rods and jam nuts. I would love to own a big RAM truck but they are very expensive here in Australia.
When the boot squishes up and the thick part of the steel tie rod slides back and forth thru the boot the grease will minimise wear from the inner tie rod and the boot interaction. Thanks for your comment Sir
Thanks for this was extremely helpful doing the left side on my GSi (boot had failed exactly like yours with the end bit torn). The stainless band on mine the tabs were hammered down so tightly I could not prise them up, had to cut it off using a Dremel and cut-off wheel, was just enough room to get the Dremel in at a good angle from above with the bonnet open. Inner ball joint was somehow still mint. Got everything back together and car drives fine except the wheel is now tilted a few degrees to the left when going straight, guessing I will need to get wheel alignment done to fix this?
Nice work getting the job done yourself. Well done! I made another video about DIY wheel alignment on my Integra using builders string. Its not that hard to do but it is a bit frustrating trying to get it “perfect” and getting the steering wheel straight.
@@UzumakiGarage Arigato mate I watched that video too, came here just to find out how to do the boot but planning to watch the rest of the vids on your channel now, good content! In the end I just went by trial and error, I figure if the steering is to the left going straight the wheel I messed with must have toe-in, I shortened the tie rod by a turn and now it is driving straight with the wheel straight so should be good enough until I'm finished working on the suspension
@@milesjcarter oh cool. yes there's no point paying for too many alignments especially when you are still working on it. I hope you find some of my other videos helpful or interesting. I'm always learning and do have fun making them and I think they are improving.
Hello Andy. Excellent video and very informative. Your trick to turn loosen the inner tie rod by turning clock wise with the spinners, will this work on all cars? I have a 2003 Nissan Altima and I need to replace the boot because it’s crack.
Thanks for the feedback, I always appreciate comments. It will work on most Japanese cars of this era because when wheel alignments are done the tie rod needs to be lengthened or shortened to adjust the wheel "Toe-in" or "Toe Out". I'm not familiar with the Nissan Ultima but I bet this technique will work. If you use your VIN at partsouq.com you can dig down through the exploded parts diagrams to see if your components look similar to mine in the video. Or send me your VIN thru instagram and I can take a look. cheers
Thanks very much Richard! and you're welcome mate. I always found that removing a tie rod end from the Hub/knuckle was difficult and risked damaging the tie rod end boot. When I worked out there was a better way I had to share. :) What car are you working on?
I'm working on a 2004 Ford Focus C-max 2L diesel in the UK. I was also worried about causing damage. I'm self taught and videos like yours and Haynes manuals are a great help. Saves me a fortune doing repairs myself 😊
Thanks. Yes all new OEM parts… bellows/boots and clamps. I will add the part numbers to the description soon. No the rack wasn’t leaking so I didn’t remove rack and install a seal kit. Yes I think the rubber bellows perishing over time is normal. 22 years is a good run for a thin rubber boot stretching and squishing over and over.
Great video My question is / can I use a zip tie for the inner bellow instead of the metal strap, also if I did use the metal strap do I need a special pliers to lock it into place. Thanks again
Hey John. Watch the video again from 5:03s where demonstrate how i lever the band to make it very tight but then I use pointy pliers to squeeze the locking tabs together to lock it. (not shown). I then hammer them flat when on the steering rack. A lot of people use zip ties instead of the proper metal band and that might work fine but I like to use the factory parts. But if you use zip ties maybe check it regularly for a while to make sure its staying on properly. I think some kits might only come with zip ties... not sure tho
@@UzumakiGarage I’m sorry to bother you but I have one more simple question Was it difficult to get the inner boot over the rack and pinion . Thanks for your time
@@johnjkizer6399 no bother. I used new genuine parts so they were easy to install. The left and right boots are different part numbers though so if you are having trouble installing one make sure it’s the correct one for that side of the rack. Cheers
It's the same era as the car I did the replacement on, in the video, so it's very likely. I'm not familiar with the Pathfinder but if you send me some photos of your steering boot setup I might be able to tell. You can send photos to my Instagram or Facebook channels. cheers Andy
Great video .. I subbed~ I have a power steerking leak right now that is not around the pump , it's coming from the rack area. The size of the leaks are about the same as your palm. Do you think the leak is more than likely a hard line that runs in the back of the rack ? If my tie rod boot is also ripped and in the same condition as the one in your video , could power steering fluid leak out from the rack ( if that seal on the steering rack rod is bad ) and exit through the boot? Thanks , I hope that makes sense.
Thank you! yes I think power steering fluid can leak past a seal on the rack and into the boot. Leaks can be tricky to find sometimes though. Is the fluid in the reservoir low? Try degreasing everywhere to make it clean and dry. Clean out or cut off old torn boot. Then with car lifted and tyres off the ground, with engine running, turn steering wheel back and forth like you are bleeding the rack to see if you can locate the leak. good luck. leaks can be painful to find.
For this car (at least) it really wasn't difficult getting the genuine Honda boot on the rack. It just slid on easily, maybe my hands were blocking the camera's view when i did that part of job??? but I didn't intentionally skip any problems as I like to focus on difficult tasks and work out a good way to overcome them. I haven't done the boot replacement job very many times but the only time I had an issue like you are talking about was when the customer supplied the wrong part. What car are you working on?
Hey Danny. Yes I did, but I think I could've just used only the Lithium NLGI2 grease instead of complicating things by adding rubber grease to the actual bellows.
I think they are just to equalise the air pressure between the left and right steering rack boots. Otherwise the boots couldn’t compress and expand freely without popping off rack.
@@UzumakiGarage we’re you able to get a replacement for that line that broke off the bellows boot? If so what’d you use? I’ve been struggling to find the name for it and what to replace mine with. The line that was connected to my passenger side bellow completely disintegrated in my hand when I was trying to remove the bellows to change my inner and our tie rods
@@paulpham3431 hi mate. The barb fitting that was broken off is part of the boot so the new OEM boot has a new barb on it. Just some regular vacuum hose i think would be a good replacement if your old hose is damaged. I was able to use my old hose on the new boots. I dont know if Honda still supplies new hoses for it. Does that make sense?
It works on my Japanese Hondas and Mitsubishi cars. I wont say it works on all cars but i bet it works on most cars that use this style of steering rack.
Hey Robert. you could try soaking the end of the bellows in very hot water first to soften up the rubber. Are you using genuine factory parts? or aftermarket? Make sure you have the correct part too as I was sent incorrect bellows once and I could not get them on no matter how hard I tried. Way too tight! These Honda bellows pushed onto the rack quite easily
@@UzumakiGarage Luckily I had the rack out of the car. I put it in the vise, sucked up the pain and got it on. All OEM as far as I know. Glad I didn't have to do it under the car. Took me 10 tries. 9 giving up and 1 it's going on no matter what.
Have you done this job too? On what car? Tell Me :)
Freaking genius. I never like to separate ball joints if I don't have to. Don't want to risk tearing the boot. This method worked seamlessly on a 95 Accord. Arigato Andy.
Thanks very much mate. There's a few handy tips on my channel. cheers!
Paint pen to mark tie rod… freaking genius! I will do exactly this when I work on replacing the rack boot on my Lexus. Thanks for the tip!
thanks mate. yes it works well. good luck with your Lexus!
the best and easiest method ive seen so far
Thanks very much. I love getting feedback cheers from Australia
This is the best video I have found for replacing the steering rack boot. The amount of detail was perfect, and the technique to preserve the alignment is very effective. I completed this today on my 2017 Ram 1500. The alignment preservation seemed to work very well. On a test drive following the boot replacement, steering feel was good. Going on a straight stretch, the steering wheel seemed to be a little off center., very slightly to the right. It may have been that way "before", I did not do a pre-evaluation. Anyway, I'll probably get the alignment checked. I had two minor challenges through the replacement process. The scariest one was when I tried to loosen the jam nut. It was super tight and I really struggled to break it loose. I ended up adding some pipe extensions to the two wrenches, the extra leverage was enough to break loose the stuck nut. The other thing was after I installed the new boot, rethreaded the jam nut, and started to rethread the tie rod into the tie rod end, I notice the new boot was twisting. I had used a zip tie at the large end and reused the metal clamp at the outboard small end. These were apparently tight enough to keep the new boot from slipping. So I took the metal clamp off and the small end was able to rotate freely. I even remembered to put he clamp back on after the rethreading was completed. After a bit when I saw it dangling there. Very happy with this methodology, it was doable and not too extremely difficult! Thanks for making this video available!
Thanks very much for the positive feedback Dan. The "wheel alignment preservation technique" is to keep the alignment similar to before so you can drive your vehicle to an alignment specialist (without causing excessive tyre wear) to check the alignment, or to check adjust it yourself using the string alignment method. I find it very annoying when my steering wheel isn't straight when driving in a straight line, but it won't take much to sort that out. I can imagine the Ram 1500 has very large tie rods and jam nuts. I would love to own a big RAM truck but they are very expensive here in Australia.
I did this but also used a ring of tape wrapped around the treads behind the lock nut along with marking a line.
Good idea to take precautions so wheel alignment kept close as possible. Thanks for the comment. Cheers
Thank you so much for posting the video. The video is well done and verbal instructions are clear and easy to follow.
Great! Thanks for the feedback. What car are you working on?
What’s the purpose of greasing the inner boot? Thanks
When the boot squishes up and the thick part of the steel tie rod slides back and forth thru the boot the grease will minimise wear from the inner tie rod and the boot interaction. Thanks for your comment Sir
Always enjoy the Integra posts, very good video!
Thank you sir. Hopefully it will be helpful for a lot of people
Love your vids. And noticed the editing change from last vid, great work!
Thanks mate. Much appreciate your input.
many good ideas. thanks
Thanks you sir. i appreciate your feedback. cheers mate
Thanks for this was extremely helpful doing the left side on my GSi (boot had failed exactly like yours with the end bit torn). The stainless band on mine the tabs were hammered down so tightly I could not prise them up, had to cut it off using a Dremel and cut-off wheel, was just enough room to get the Dremel in at a good angle from above with the bonnet open. Inner ball joint was somehow still mint. Got everything back together and car drives fine except the wheel is now tilted a few degrees to the left when going straight, guessing I will need to get wheel alignment done to fix this?
Nice work getting the job done yourself. Well done! I made another video about DIY wheel alignment on my Integra using builders string. Its not that hard to do but it is a bit frustrating trying to get it “perfect” and getting the steering wheel straight.
@@UzumakiGarage Arigato mate I watched that video too, came here just to find out how to do the boot but planning to watch the rest of the vids on your channel now, good content! In the end I just went by trial and error, I figure if the steering is to the left going straight the wheel I messed with must have toe-in, I shortened the tie rod by a turn and now it is driving straight with the wheel straight so should be good enough until I'm finished working on the suspension
@@milesjcarter oh cool. yes there's no point paying for too many alignments especially when you are still working on it. I hope you find some of my other videos helpful or interesting. I'm always learning and do have fun making them and I think they are improving.
Hello Andy. Excellent video and very informative. Your trick to turn loosen the inner tie rod by turning clock wise with the spinners, will this work on all cars? I have a 2003 Nissan Altima and I need to replace the boot because it’s crack.
Thanks for the feedback, I always appreciate comments. It will work on most Japanese cars of this era because when wheel alignments are done the tie rod needs to be lengthened or shortened to adjust the wheel "Toe-in" or "Toe Out". I'm not familiar with the Nissan Ultima but I bet this technique will work. If you use your VIN at partsouq.com you can dig down through the exploded parts diagrams to see if your components look similar to mine in the video. Or send me your VIN thru instagram and I can take a look. cheers
Aloha down under and tha k you Andy for your fast response. You ate too kind. Tour white Integra looks awesome.
@@jmacook Thanks mate. Let me know how the job goes on your Altima job. cheers
Great video with easy to follow steps!
Thanks mate. On what car are you planning on doing this job?
@@UzumakiGarage civic 8th gen, hope it's as smooth as your video!
@@caspergw good luck. let me know how it goes
Thanks for the tips, diys
You’re welcome mate. Hope it helps. Do you have some worn out steering rack boots to replace too?
Definitely learnt something new there. Good vid 👍
That's great. I'm always learning while doing these jobs too. cheers!
You absolute genius. This advice will save me time. Thank you so much 😊
Thanks very much Richard! and you're welcome mate. I always found that removing a tie rod end from the Hub/knuckle was difficult and risked damaging the tie rod end boot. When I worked out there was a better way I had to share. :) What car are you working on?
I'm working on a 2004 Ford Focus C-max 2L diesel in the UK. I was also worried about causing damage. I'm self taught and videos like yours and Haynes manuals are a great help. Saves me a fortune doing repairs myself 😊
@@richard3769 yes for sure. And when you do things yourself you can take your time and get the satisfaction of doing the job properly.
You know it. In the past, I've had to redo mechanics' work because they used cheap parts that later failed.
Great video will worth watching.
Thanks very much sir. Are you doing this job on a Honda too or just researching for other cars? cheers Andy
Another great vid Andy. Much respect from Will in Tassie 🙂
Cheers mate. Much appreciated. Hope you’re doing well and not having trouble with the flood waters.
@@UzumakiGarage Luckily a bit higher up mate. The 'Old Girl' is safe 😨
Great video!
Did you use OEM bellows? Also was your rack leaking at all or did the bellows just corrode over time?
Thanks. Yes all new OEM parts… bellows/boots and clamps. I will add the part numbers to the description soon. No the rack wasn’t leaking so I didn’t remove rack and install a seal kit. Yes I think the rubber bellows perishing over time is normal. 22 years is a good run for a thin rubber boot stretching and squishing over and over.
Great vid ☝️
Great video
My question is / can I use a zip tie for the inner bellow instead of the metal strap, also if I did use the metal strap do I need a special pliers to lock it into place. Thanks again
Hey John. Watch the video again from 5:03s where demonstrate how i lever the band to make it very tight but then I use pointy pliers to squeeze the locking tabs together to lock it. (not shown). I then hammer them flat when on the steering rack. A lot of people use zip ties instead of the proper metal band and that might work fine but I like to use the factory parts. But if you use zip ties maybe check it regularly for a while to make sure its staying on properly. I think some kits might only come with zip ties... not sure tho
@@UzumakiGarage thank you so much for your time and God bless
@@UzumakiGarage I’m sorry to bother you but I have one more simple question
Was it difficult to get the inner boot over the rack and pinion . Thanks for your time
@@johnjkizer6399 no bother. I used new genuine parts so they were easy to install. The left and right boots are different part numbers though so if you are having trouble installing one make sure it’s the correct one for that side of the rack. Cheers
@@UzumakiGarage thank you so much for taking time to answer my question, have a wonderful week and God bless
Thanks ..sooooooo easy!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the comment sir. much appreciate your feedback 🙂
Perfect 🎉
Thank You Mr K. What car are you doing this job on?
can i do this on a 2002 pathfinder?
It's the same era as the car I did the replacement on, in the video, so it's very likely. I'm not familiar with the Pathfinder but if you send me some photos of your steering boot setup I might be able to tell. You can send photos to my Instagram or Facebook channels. cheers Andy
Super helpful video - thank you!
You’re very welcome. Thanks for commenting. What car are you doing this job on?
@@UzumakiGarage Cheers, this will be on my '01 GS-R 👍
@@graydtx good luck 🙂
@@UzumakiGarage Thank you!
Great video .. I subbed~
I have a power steerking leak right now that is not around the pump , it's coming from the rack area. The size of the leaks are about the same as your palm. Do you think the leak is more than likely a hard line that runs in the back of the rack ? If my tie rod boot is also ripped and in the same condition as the one in your video , could power steering fluid leak out from the rack ( if that seal on the steering rack rod is bad ) and exit through the boot? Thanks , I hope that makes sense.
Thank you! yes I think power steering fluid can leak past a seal on the rack and into the boot. Leaks can be tricky to find sometimes though. Is the fluid in the reservoir low? Try degreasing everywhere to make it clean and dry. Clean out or cut off old torn boot. Then with car lifted and tyres off the ground, with engine running, turn steering wheel back and forth like you are bleeding the rack to see if you can locate the leak. good luck. leaks can be painful to find.
@@UzumakiGarage
Thanks for that tip , I will give it a shot. Thanks ~
@@reza_dc2 Lemme know how you go
Every channel seems to skip the hardest part, getting the boot over the lip
For this car (at least) it really wasn't difficult getting the genuine Honda boot on the rack. It just slid on easily, maybe my hands were blocking the camera's view when i did that part of job??? but I didn't intentionally skip any problems as I like to focus on difficult tasks and work out a good way to overcome them. I haven't done the boot replacement job very many times but the only time I had an issue like you are talking about was when the customer supplied the wrong part. What car are you working on?
You used two different types of grease??
Hey Danny. Yes I did, but I think I could've just used only the Lithium NLGI2 grease instead of complicating things by adding rubber grease to the actual bellows.
@@UzumakiGarage Do you mean not adding grease to the inside of the bellow at all or just using the NLGI 2 for the inside of the bellows as well?
@@camtwan1 I think you should add some grease to the inside of the bellows. Not a crazy amount though
THANX
You're welcome. I hope it helps. Take a look around my channel if you have time :)
What are those thin hoses that run on the bellows for??
I think they are just to equalise the air pressure between the left and right steering rack boots. Otherwise the boots couldn’t compress and expand freely without popping off rack.
@@UzumakiGarage thank you so much...
@@UzumakiGarage we’re you able to get a replacement for that line that broke off the bellows boot? If so what’d you use? I’ve been struggling to find the name for it and what to replace mine with. The line that was connected to my passenger side bellow completely disintegrated in my hand when I was trying to remove the bellows to change my inner and our tie rods
@@paulpham3431 hi mate. The barb fitting that was broken off is part of the boot so the new OEM boot has a new barb on it. Just some regular vacuum hose i think would be a good replacement if your old hose is damaged. I was able to use my old hose on the new boots. I dont know if Honda still supplies new hoses for it. Does that make sense?
Good video I just noticed both of my boots were cracked after changing to my winters.
Thanks for the feedback mate. Much appreciated. Must suck having to run winters every year
is that work.for all cars or american ones
It works on my Japanese Hondas and Mitsubishi cars. I wont say it works on all cars but i bet it works on most cars that use this style of steering rack.
@@UzumakiGarage i dont know is it fine to experimenting on Peugeot (France) cars
@@Mr11ESSE111 I've never worked on a Peugot so I don't know how their steering system.
Is this the passenger side?
I changed both sides but it was easier filming this side. Which is the RH side. It’s a RHD car so it’s the drivers side for me
@@UzumakiGarage couldn't turn the nut, wasn't sure was clockwise or anti. Thx
@@hybridirongolfer8584 Sorry I missed your comment. Did you work out which way to turn the locknut and loosen it?
Fuq u push the bellows on the steering rack. The damn thing is so tight it bruising my thumbs trying to get it seated..
Hey Robert. you could try soaking the end of the bellows in very hot water first to soften up the rubber. Are you using genuine factory parts? or aftermarket? Make sure you have the correct part too as I was sent incorrect bellows once and I could not get them on no matter how hard I tried. Way too tight! These Honda bellows pushed onto the rack quite easily
@@UzumakiGarage Luckily I had the rack out of the car. I put it in the vise, sucked up the pain and got it on. All OEM as far as I know. Glad I didn't have to do it under the car. Took me 10 tries. 9 giving up and 1 it's going on no matter what.
@@robertfontaine3650 haha :) I'm glad you got there in the end. Well Done!
Nice video sir, but that inner tie rod needed to be replaced as well. That's looser then my ex girlfriend 😂
😂 yeah the job was just getting bigger and bigger so that has to wait for another time. Thanks for the comment cheers