Lead Filling Techniques Every CLASSIC CAR Restorer Should Know!
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2024
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Lead Filling Techniques Every Classic Car Restorer Should Know!
Join Wray from Pro Shaper Workshop in Charlton, Massachusetts, for an insightful demonstration on the art of Lead Filling Techniques, a technique essential for CLASSIC CAR enthusiasts. In this tutorial, Wray takes us through the process of fixing a low spot on a door skin, a common issue encountered during restorations, where traditional methods like knocking up the metal are not possible.
Wray, alongside his student Kevin, showcases the meticulous steps required for a successful lead load, starting from the preparation of the metal surface with a stiff wire brush to achieve clean metal, to the application of acid and the process of tinning which prepares the surface for the lead. Emphasizing the superiority of lead over Bondo for collector cars, Wray explains why lead is the preferred choice for achieving a durable and authentic restoration.
The video covers the entire process in detail, including the use of a wooden paddle for spreading the lead, the importance of lubrication to avoid sticking, and the technique of heating the metal to the perfect temperature for the lead to flow like butter. Wray also addresses common pitfalls, such as the challenge of working on vertical surfaces and the necessity of applying more material than you think you need to avoid the hassle of resoldering.
Filled with practical tips, such as how to reclaim and reuse lead, the use of candle wax as a lubricant, and the importance of cleaning the metal thoroughly with acid, this video is a must-watch for anyone looking to master the technique of lead loading. The demonstration concludes with Wray showing how to file down the lead to achieve a smooth finish, leaving the finer details for Kevin to complete.
Whether you're a seasoned professional or a newcomer to the world of automotive restoration, Wray's guide to lead loading offers invaluable insights into a technique that has stood the test of time, ensuring your restoration projects achieve the perfect finish.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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Amazing content! I was going to ask about the vertical surfaces but you covered it!
It's so great to have you posting regularly again Wray. Such an inspiration.
I appreciate that! There is definitely more to come!
To the subscribers of this channel...each of you that will read this..We here for one reason to watch listen and learn from a master designer and fabricator amongst if not the best what we learn is priceless...How difficult would it be to share this channel to atleast 1 friend of similar interests to build this channel and make it grow...it the least we can do
Thanks for showing this old school technique.
You bet!
To the subscribers of this channel...each of you that will read this..We here for one reason to watch listen and learn from a master designer and fabricator amongst if not the best what we learn is priceless...How difficult would it be to share this channel to atleast 1 friend of similar interests to build this channel and make it grow...it the least we can do to atleast get it 100K subscribers if not more...and dont forget to like and comment...if we grow the channel revenue is generated so we get more skilled content available
You're the best!
I remember my dad doing lead repairs when I was a kid. He bought 100 lbs at a time from the dealer. His initial tinning was done with acid core solder. I still have his wooden paddles that were used for spreading and a special tip on the torch for heating the panel.
3 things for those who don't know and to go a little deeper than this short intro to leading:
1 there's a tinning flux that exists that incorporate the acid and the lead (even exists to do it on aluminum but very hard to come by and defeats the purpose of using aluminum). After tinning it's good practice to wash the excess of acid with a damp rag soaked in a mix of water and soda, that way it won't cause problems with the paint in the coming years.
2 you can warm up the lead stick until it becomes dull, more than that and it melts, makes the spreading easier and you apply less heat on your work piece.
3 when spreading, it has to have the consistence of warm butter as Wray said, that way you can spread it vertically or even upside down and you can give it the shape you want.
Wray actualy melted the lead here which shouldn't happen, that usually happens for someone who knows how to lead when he didn't lead for a long time.
Thank you for this, it has been a while since I've used lead. I was showing my student and Mark caught me off guard when he brought the camera over.
@@proshaper I used to do quite a lot of lead, now once or twice a year but everytime I get back to it, it never fails : it drips on the shop floor for the first 10mn.
theres a plumbers liquid solder paste and flux combined that tins really really well with a lot less fuss ,,, well worth a look for it , you just warm things up and paint it on , it goes silver and the jobs done , then tear on as usual .
Right on, I'll have to look into that. I appreciate the tip!
Thanks Wray good to see you again. Love doing the lead work better than the polyester fillers
Absolutely
Lead work an art form in it self. Great video.
Thank you so much! I've always wanted him to do a video on lead.
Really neat! I've never even heard of this being done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the demo Wray.
You bet!
Nice change. Thanks for the tips.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
You bet
Hi Wray great video is it possible to use lead on aluminum?
You need to tin it with a special alloy of lead/tin combo that will bond to the aluminum. The normal stuff won't bond to the aluminum. Once you put that bond on, it acts like a primer then you can put the lead on top of it and it will stick just fine.
How hazardous is that? Probably on par with handling ammunition or fishing weights I suppose?
Stay away from the fumes.....not good at all...
Does the lead need a tooth under it like an 80 grit or does the wire wheel do enough?
awesome Wray does epoxy primer stick ok to lead etc? ... if ... if you required a final light skim of bondo would you do it after the primer paint or you just wouldn't? thanks again
Yes, epoxy primer does stick to the lead. I'm sure whoever eventually paints the car will still put a skim of bondo on it. I hate to use bondo though.
The RUclips title page features a corvette - would be hard to use lead on fiberglass.
Wray is wry.
Yeah, that was me (Mark) I'm playing around with Thumbnails and I guarantee once Wray see's the picture I used I'm going get an earful.
@@proshaperHaving spent part of my youth sanding on fiberglass repairs to classic corvettes, I wondered a bit about that. Incidentally, we appreciate all the work you do to keep this channel going. I’ve learned enough to make me dangerous!😅
I agree lead is best but I've also got cars with plastic filler that are nearly 40 years since they were painted and they haven't failed , leaded joints have paint failure sometimes, it seems to dry out , probably no etch primer?
You're probably right about the no etch primer. I see both sides, bondo jobs done 5 years ago that bubbled up and also lead jobs that were crap. I guess it really depends on the person working on the project.
I thought tallow was best followed by beeswax and candle wax had something in it that was problematic but I cant recall what. Anybody else remember?
I'm not sure but I will look into that and report back.
@@proshaper Sounds good, set me straight if I'm wrong! 😁
I want to see how you use lead filler on a Corvette, the cover picture on RUclips of this video.
Yeah, I made Mark change it, he knows better.
@@proshaper It caught my eye quickly as i like older Corvettes. A couple friends of mine have owned them.
Wray's next project will have to be a steel-bodied vette. Come on Wray, you know you wanna!
@@foxholewilly The Ridler winner this year was an aluminum vette built by Kindig.
@@theinsaneshecklador6598 would lead work with aluminium - I doubt it