Metal Finishing a 1933 Ford Fender
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2022
- www.proshaper.com
Our Amazon Storefront:
www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper
Metal Finishing a 1933 Ford Fender
In this video Wray shows us how he takes out the small dents on these 1933 Ford Fenders. First he had to sand off all the primer which helped show the low and high spots. He will also use Dykem if the dented area is large but will use a magic marker for smaller areas.
Then he will use a file to file down the dykem, revealing the areas that he has to chase with a slapper and dolly. After he will take the 5" shrinking disc and a spray bottle of soapy water then run it over the area of the fender to bring the high spots down.
There is still work that needs to be done on the front fender section but with some planishing and patience it will be good as new!
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
Website: www.proshaper.com
Facebook: / proshaper
Instagram: / proshaper
Twitter: / proshaperm
Linkedin: / pros. .
Metal Artist
another video with a wealth of knowledge
Looks like someone filled the spare tire pockets on both of those fenders, nice work fixing them up
You make it look so easy. I know it isn't, but it gives me the courage to get out there and try it. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing all of these secrets with us. Years ago, a guy would be protecting these secrets like his life depended on it. We live in an age of information, and you are an invaluable part of that!
A true craftsman
It's like taking a course and not paying for it...I like the way you explain things in laymans terms....never gets old watching and learning....on to the next one....
the dings your talking about in the middle of the fender is probable from the side skirts on the hood.
I love the fact that you will use lead and not body filler to finish the bead!!! Kudos to you!
Wray, About 20 years ago while trying to srink the metal on a tailgate of my car, I end up using a old worn out flapper 6" wheel and noticed it was not sanding.
What I found was the paper had worn off and what was left was the base composite material which happen to heat up the metal I was working on. About 2 years later I was at a swap meet in CT and this guy was selling the 6" or 9" S.S. wheels. I thought it was a great idea but I had wished there was one smaller at the time. I wish I had bought one then.
I know more now since it's a hobby but love metal working. Unfortunately in CT the rust gets into my blood literature when you try to restore a 67 year old car.
Great tips and love your work.
It was probably me at Stafford Springs swap meet.
@@proshaper Are you planning on going there again? That's a good show!
Hi Wray, I watched all 3 videos of this repair on the 33 fender, and didn't see your method of how you formed the patch panel flange around the wire on the fender.Do you have another video showing that process?
Thanks again for sharing your talent. Max
Thanks Wray - I pick up a tip on nearly every one of your videos
I put model A front fenders with a ton of dings .in my English wheel with low crown anvil and low pressure. Took out most of dings then worked on smaller amount one at a time
Great lesson on using the shrinking disc Wray, a different perspective using it on the under side of the fender, I'm not sure if it would have dawned on me to do it that way. Thank you.
Great information! It's good to know it's normal for the shrinking discs to wobble, I bought one of your 9" discs almost 10 years ago and never got into using it much due to concern about it being out of balance. Looks like I'll have to dig it back out now, I'm impressed by how well the disc removed that long dent from the hood side being dropped on it. I realize these videos take a lot of time to put together, but I'd be interested in seeing a short video of the completed fenders with all the dykem cleaned off before they go back to the customer.
Great video!
Great work Wray, I'm restoring a pair of front 33' Ford fenders right now, that have the same issues as the one you repaired. Your talent has made a big difference in how I am approaching this process. I really wanted to see how you formed the patch panel flange around the wire on the fender. Thanks again for sharing your talent.
Wray, Just did a dig to find those PFERD files here. WOW!!!!
They are new $285 AUD here. And a pack of files are $ 121 AUD here.
This'll teach me to not break the one I had. Time to look for a per owned one.
Looking forward to the t-shirts to turn up in the next few days.
Always learning. Love Wray’s skills . With the help off these videos hundreds of years of gained skills through discovery are perpetuated throughout the world . Great use of technology.👍❤️🇦🇺
Learning metal work isnt a spectator sport. You arnt gaining any skills through watching alone.
Thanks Wray. Great stuff. I’d like to see adding lead to the edge....
Those long dents are unusual. If they were more toward the top of the fender and in, I would think a hood side landed on it. Looks like another scooby-doo mystery to me! Loved the video as always y’all! It’s definitely helping me map out the repair process for my dad and I’s 3 36 ford trucks. I look forward to seeing the next video!
as always brilliant video and brilliant teaching learning some much every time thankyou for doing these videos
Thanks for the lesson of the day allways good info.
Awesome video thank you very much, all the best to you and your loved ones
Well done wray.
Thanks Wray. I can see where bondo in repairs for a car you will keep for five years is not an issue but in cases where yo have a car that is a classic this is a disaster. I have paint and other issues on the bonnet of my MG where there are issues with the paint. I think that it may be related to some contamination that was on the metal but it did not show up until 2 years later. There were no stone hits or anything like that but 2 areas about the size of your small finger nail fractured. the paint is still there but it is surrounded by the primer color It is picky to get it fixed due to the sheer cost of this stuff now but it would be nice to have it done. It is tought o justify the cost now I have retired this year. At least it still runs reliably.
Wonderful work as always 👌Thank you
Hope you show the leading if you do decide its needed , I dont think Ive seen you do lead before.
You sort of missed out the metal finishing and shaping after welding of the actual patch though , sort of the main point of the series ,,, [ just thought I would mention it ]
Same process as I showed on the back section.
@@proshaper yep .. I appreciate that ... but still like to see it all ... I'm sure I'm not alone in that ... otherwise just watching two of your early videos would have done ... please don't take for granted what you do .. we like to see it all in detail it's why folk watch and subscribe .. thanks t
I agree. Definitely show the lead process if needed.
Well explained and demonstrated!
Thanks.
Nice work, Wray. I always enjoy the tutorials.
Excellent tutorial very helpful, thanks Wray.
Have you ever messed with magnetic dent balls like they use in instrument repair? Would they be strong enough to take dents out?
No experience with them.
Хорошая работа !
I think the 2 low spots on both fenders could be where someone a long time ago could have through a spare tire up on the fender and had it strapped because if the dent looks the same on both sides in the same place someone may have just took the front tire off and threw it up on the fender and strapped it maybe
The consensus is the hood corner made the damage.
Nice Work.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
Mr Schelin you are a wealth of knowledge! Thanks for sharing your valuable teaching skills!
Another great tutorial Wray. I am working on 1933 Chevy fenders. They have the same long low spot. I am wondering if it was simply a factory flaw when they were pressed. Either way, thanks for your videos!
I used to be a metal finisher now I'm in the auto body field used to work for Star Tool & Die and Bud wheel in Detroit you had a grinder a polisher and a da pick hammer files made by Nicholas and Heller I can't seem to find the same files they used to be numbered like 3 001 was our finest and a 2097 I want say was it was the course one no shrinking disc back then you're trying to use the grinder but then you were taking Material off Shekinah manipulates the metal you know either high or low I've learned from the old-timers there also went to Buick City Pontiac truck and coach and the Oldsmobile plan in Lansing for quality control
Scott Knight was the inventor of the 9" shrinking disc with the ruffles on the edges. He came out with it in the early 80s. Scott I'm sure he was inspired by earlier attempts. I have seen ads for a round cast iron 1/2" thick discs in 1950s Hot rod magazines and Road and Track. I have found that just because and "old timer" did something it doesn't make it right or the best way. There are lots of widely held beliefs in sheet metal shaping that are not the best technique to follow. The best example is wood station bucks. Everybody starts out making one. They are the worst possible method.
You might like a Pferd Pfile for working on your Pford.
Smart your jop
Great video Wray, thank you for sharing your knowledge. It was really impressive to see how fast the shrinking disc worked. I'm going to have to get one pretty soon. On the dents on the front, would there be a downside to using your portable English wheel?
The portable English wheel we made is still too heavy. I think Titanium is the only way to make a great portable English wheel. Portable planishing hammers also can be too heavy and they stretch way too fast.
@@proshaper That makes sense. I just ordered my first tool from you. Can't wait to try my hand at the shrinking disc. I'm sure many more purchases are in my future. Thanks you.
@@proshaper Would it make sense to try a composite design? Carbon fiber would keep the weight down assuming it could be made stiff enough.
maybe a garage door came down on it to damage both fenders the same way?
This was a really good 4 series project with great info.
I have the small shrinking disc, but only tried it one time, but found it to scracth the metal... But now I want to try it again. Do you apply pressure or just let the weight of the grinder do its thing?
I use the discs only on steel panels. If you are scratching you probably have galled metal on the disc which needs to be cleaned with sandpaper like I showed. A little magic marker prevents galling. One an area has had the disc run on it with a little marker, it tends not to gall anymore.
@@proshaper Thank you so much for taking your time to answer. I will try it out.
At what point does the effort of fixing all those individually little problems add up to more work than making a new panel from scratch? (And how easy would it be to tell in advance that was the case?
To make a whole fender is a 40 to 60 hr project. Fixing these fenders is less work.
Regards epoxy primer, it’s recommended by most as the first coat over bare finished metal. What do you recommend as first coat over bare metal? Although I’d rather see your work without paint.
No paint at all till the metal work is finished. Clean humidity rust as needed with phosphoric acid.
Great video! 😁
Curious question. Why do it like that and not in the English wheel with really low pressure and take the dents out?? You are doing it 100% right just curious :)
The fender is too bulky and heavy. You'll just catch the wheels and make damage.
@@proshaper okey thanks for awnser :)
What does it tell you when part of the edge of a FSP is loose? Just tried my first and managed to fill most of the "field" of the panel, but a couple of edges are loose, and the looseness can be moved up and down the edge somewhat? Don't want to put it into arrangement until I understand.
I'm assuming you made the panel by following the flexible shape pattern, but now everywhere it touches but on one or more of the edges. If that is the case you might have overdeveloped the panel and one or more of the edges are loose. The correction is stretch the edge of the panel so it fits the flexible shape pattern. The other possibility is the panel had a reverse curve on one of it's edges. Solution: stretch the edge so that it now fits the flexible shape pattern.
@@proshaper Thanks for the response Wray. Yes, I followed the FSP, by stretching the "mountain (as you call it) in the middle, then filling in the loose areas. The top and bottom edges are tight, but the two opposite "long" sides have loose edges, these would be the sides that eventually will get tightened up as the panel will be bent along that axis, but I assume it needs to fit perfectly everywhere before it is put into arrangement - including the edges? There's no reverse on this panel, it's the back portion (About 20" W x 16" h) of a 55 chevy roof panel - for practice only. Got to practice this technique a couple times before I do anything in anger. Thanks for the informative videos by the way!
Any reason that the English wheel isn't used to work out the pick marks?
Try to read some of the other comments. I have answered this question several times. The fender is too bulky and heavy. You will make more problems than you fix.
What rpm is the grinder spinning 😊😊
You don't suppose where you say "somebody dropped something", that could be a well for a spare tire, do you?
The damage was caused by the rear lower hood edge dropping on the fender. That was the consensus of the Ford guys.
Aren't you afraid of prematurely abrading away the shrink disk with the 80gr sandpaper? It might be possible to make one of those disks by metal spinning one on a lathe, but it looks like it stainless steel which means instant work hardening.
Cleaning the disc with sandpaper does not shorten the life of the disc, it makes it more effective. I have been making and selling shrinking discs of my own design for over 20 years.
Second!
First comment!
Hi Wray, Since I'm new to your site, and someone has probably already ask these questions. What grade/alloy is the 19 gauge steel sheet metal do you use? 1008 1/4 hard? The same question for the Aluminum sheet you prefer? Thanks again for sharing your talent, Max
I believe it is 1008 or 1010. It is generic cold rolled mild steel, not AK or anything special. I use 3003 H-14 which is now much harder than say ten years ago. I now anneal .063" aluminum if it will have a lot of crown requiring shrinking.
@@proshaper Thanks Wray, Have you done a video on your leading process?