Keep pumping them out! This explained almost everything i needed to know. I just started shooting about a year ago, i never knew why i couldn't get my broadheads to group past 20 yards! Thanks man!
@@backporchwisdom6195 Stabilizers make a huge difference in steadiness through the shot. They also counter balance any weight on the other side of the bow, sight, rest, quiver ect.
Great short vid and tip. I would add that you set the rest level and 13/16" on 95% of new bows out there and shim (tophats) the cams until you get the bareshafts hitting with fletched. Also, you can paper tune bareshafts. When I have paper tuned a bareshaft at 15 yards through paper the bareshafts and fletched hit when in the field shooting at 20-30yards.
Nock tune till you get a bullethole on every bareshaft ( assuming you have the right spine) then fletch one. Chances are they will touch at 20, then broaheads will fly great. Basically the same thing you said lol
I've never done it that way but Tim Gillingham figured that that didnt work as well as shooting a bare shaft and a fletched arrow. Everyone to their own though! What works for me wont work for everyone!
@@isaacbedford4082 if you're spined right you can turn the nock till it bareshafts a bullethole and your fletched and bareshafts will fly together. That's assuming you have an arrow weight and spine that your bow likes
Right now I get super good broadhead flight. All I have done for a number of years is walkback tune and it has served me well, but this is the first time I've ever heard of the way you're doing it and I love the method you have here. This will no doubt allow me to fine tune the minutias. This is great. Thanks. And I subbed ya.. Keep on Keep'n on.......... Eric
Your instructions for moving the rest left and right are opposite. It should be if your bare shaft is hitting left of fletched, you move the rest left and move the rest to the right if your bare shafts are hitting to the right of the fletched.
This is a correct statement. BS impact left indicates a tail right condition. Bare shaft impact left would require a rest movement to the LEFT (to correct the tail right condition, which is the reason for a BS left impact) or a cam movement to the RIGHT. Keep in mind, when these tune changes are made, a windage adjustment will also be required on your sight.
@@isaacbedford4082 My bareshaft method relies heavily on shifting the cams on a Mathews bow. I set the centershot to 13/16 and begin there. If I'm required to move the rest inside of 3/4 or outside of 7/8, I will move the cam.
I would be VERY cautious about this.... it will work with expandable broadheads no doubt! You may find it slightly more difficult to tune your fixed blades. I added a small amount of weight and nock tuned to get my fixed blades to fly well. Also matched each shaft with a specific broadhead...
I have a different video where I did this at 50 yard with a 4 blade, Field point, and bare shaft. I could literally wrap my hand around the group. Everything works differently for different people though!
I've heard this several times here lately and it goes against everything I've ever been told about archery you said the center Shot and if you still rip one way or the other or bear shaft hits one way or the other you move the cam you don't mess with the rest DJ Riley done a video with the other day and I left a comment because that's what I've always been told and he actually rung that up in a video I mean if your rest is out of Center shot so far to the left you won't have enough sight adjustment to go far enough to the left to push the arrow back to the right bottom line I could see a 16th either side of center Shot and I don't want a couple different bows here lately they've been saying Center shot it's like 7/8 of an inch I know another day if you're a bear shaft tuning that hand placement is everything it is very hard to Bear shaft too you have to watch your hand grip big time because the least little bit of thing can affect that then you're going to be chasing your tail around like that inline crime five I believe it's got pretty bad not travel I know it does you have to set it 2 inches above the center of the grip and I've noticed that no matter what even at 7/8 it wants to throw the arrow to the left so a lot of it has to do with moving that cam
Yeah, if you watch a few of my bow build videos it will get the basics, then watch a few of the tuning videos and it should get you pretty close to where you need to be. I dont have all the videos out yet, but I'm working on that!
Yeah, I will do that sir. Thanks again for your help man you don’t know what it’s like down here in Ontario because I got these big box stores but they don’t know how to tune shit cause they hire anyone off the street that you don’t I mean that doesn’t know nothing
@@jasonnester9514 The reason I shoot the bare shaft and the fletched arrow the same is so that the fletched arrow will be tuned properly. It will make the arrow with fletchings more forgiving, as it will fly out of the bow straighter.
I watched several youtube videos on how to bareshaft tune and most videos say if you shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow and if the bareshaft arrow hits to the right of the fletched arrow, move the rest to the RIGHT towards the bareshaft (chasing the bareshaft). And then you said if you the bareshaft and fletched arrow and if the bareshaft would hit to the right of the fletched arrow, move the arrow rest to the LEFT towards the fletched arrow (chasing the fletched arrow). I'm confused. Which one is it? Thanks.
@bobbydenezza7795 move it left the bareshaft is coming out of the bow pointed right. if you know your center shot is good and have yokes you can also yoke tune if it you have access to a press
I bareshaft tuned at 20 yards shooting through paper and into the target. If I am getting a clean bullet hole at 20 yards with a bareshaft, is it necessary to go back to 50 yards and shoot a bareshaft in paper to see if you can still get a perfect bullet hole from 50 or do you think that once you get a good bullet hole at 20, you will get a good bullet hole from 50?
What I would do is paper tune all your arrows, make sure ALL of them are shooting a bullet hole at 5 yards, including the bare shaft. Because sometimes the bareshaft simply isnt a "good" arrow then for fine tuning I would bareshaft tune at 20, realistically if you do that field points wilm be tuned other than that i would leave it. If you are going to be shooting broadheads, then i would broadhead tune after you have already done all of this.
@@isaacbedford4082 Yeah I bareshaft tuned using a Shooting machine from 20 yd and I got a perfect bullet hole through paper. Then I shot a fletched arrow with field points and it hit within 1" from the bareshaft and made a perfect bullet hole. My bow is tuned perfectly. So after that, i shot all my arrows with field points and i had a nice tight grouping within an inch. And Then I took the field points off all thr arrows and put broadheads on them and shot my broadheads and they still don't hit in the same spot as my field points even though I shot a clean bullet hole at 20 yards when tuning. They all hit all over the place within 3 to 4 " from the field point impact. I get great groups with my field points hitting consistently in the same spot, but the broadheads are inconsistent despite the bow being bareshaft tuned. Like you said. I tried turning the nocks on the arrows to get the broadheads to hit better with field points and it still didnt work. What else should I do to fix this?
I never have had to use top hats, I've found that if the arrows are not sitting within ⅜ of an inch of the middle of the riser the spines of my arrows are off.
Keep pumping them out! This explained almost everything i needed to know. I just started shooting about a year ago, i never knew why i couldn't get my broadheads to group past 20 yards! Thanks man!
Glad to hear it!
@@isaacbedford4082 Do stabilizers actually make any difference? I see you shoot them in every video. never tried them.
@@backporchwisdom6195 Stabilizers make a huge difference in steadiness through the shot. They also counter balance any weight on the other side of the bow, sight, rest, quiver ect.
@@isaacbedford4082 Thank you for the info!
Great short vid and tip. I would add that you set the rest level and 13/16" on 95% of new bows out there and shim (tophats) the cams until you get the bareshafts hitting with fletched. Also, you can paper tune bareshafts. When I have paper tuned a bareshaft at 15 yards through paper the bareshafts and fletched hit when in the field shooting at 20-30yards.
It's been really neat to hear how everyone else tunes as well! I've learned so much! I'll keep this one in mind as well!
Nock tune till you get a bullethole on every bareshaft ( assuming you have the right spine) then fletch one. Chances are they will touch at 20, then broaheads will fly great. Basically the same thing you said lol
I've never done it that way but Tim Gillingham figured that that didnt work as well as shooting a bare shaft and a fletched arrow. Everyone to their own though! What works for me wont work for everyone!
@@isaacbedford4082 if you're spined right you can turn the nock till it bareshafts a bullethole and your fletched and bareshafts will fly together. That's assuming you have an arrow weight and spine that your bow likes
Right now I get super good broadhead flight. All I have done for a number of years is walkback tune and it has served me well, but this is the first time I've ever heard of the way you're doing it and I love the method you have here. This will no doubt allow me to fine tune the minutias. This is great. Thanks. And I subbed ya.. Keep on Keep'n on.......... Eric
Thanks buddy!
Your instructions for moving the rest left and right are opposite. It should be if your bare shaft is hitting left of fletched, you move the rest left and move the rest to the right if your bare shafts are hitting to the right of the fletched.
This is a correct statement. BS impact left indicates a tail right condition. Bare shaft impact left would require a rest movement to the LEFT (to correct the tail right condition, which is the reason for a BS left impact) or a cam movement to the RIGHT. Keep in mind, when these tune changes are made, a windage adjustment will also be required on your sight.
Yup, I just realized as soon as you said this that I put it backwards in the video!
Thanks for keeping me in check!
@@isaacbedford4082 My bareshaft method relies heavily on shifting the cams on a Mathews bow. I set the centershot to 13/16 and begin there. If I'm required to move the rest inside of 3/4 or outside of 7/8, I will move the cam.
@@TD2821 ok, interesting, I've never had to change the tophats. Just adjusted the poundage until the spines are correct.
@@isaacbedford4082 you could also fix the video and reupload before someone buys a crossbow after trying to follow this
Hey Isaac great Video well done 👍 I’m not shooting compound bow .. at the moment I’m shooting OR but you did a great job with the video 👍
Great
Thankyou I appreciate it!!
I would be VERY cautious about this.... it will work with expandable broadheads no doubt! You may find it slightly more difficult to tune your fixed blades. I added a small amount of weight and nock tuned to get my fixed blades to fly well. Also matched each shaft with a specific broadhead...
I have a different video where I did this at 50 yard with a 4 blade, Field point, and bare shaft. I could literally wrap my hand around the group. Everything works differently for different people though!
great out of the box stuff right there. thank you!
For sure, glad to help dude!
People make mistakes young man is trying and doing a damn good job
Thankyou very much! It means a lot!
Awesome tip brother!!!! Most miss this step.
Yeah, that's pretty common
Legend! Informative video, help me out alot cheers brother 👍
Perfect! Glad I can help!
I've heard this several times here lately and it goes against everything I've ever been told about archery you said the center Shot and if you still rip one way or the other or bear shaft hits one way or the other you move the cam you don't mess with the rest DJ Riley done a video with the other day and I left a comment because that's what I've always been told and he actually rung that up in a video I mean if your rest is out of Center shot so far to the left you won't have enough sight adjustment to go far enough to the left to push the arrow back to the right bottom line I could see a 16th either side of center Shot and I don't want a couple different bows here lately they've been saying Center shot it's like 7/8 of an inch I know another day if you're a bear shaft tuning that hand placement is everything it is very hard to Bear shaft too you have to watch your hand grip big time because the least little bit of thing can affect that then you're going to be chasing your tail around like that inline crime five I believe it's got pretty bad not travel I know it does you have to set it 2 inches above the center of the grip and I've noticed that no matter what even at 7/8 it wants to throw the arrow to the left so a lot of it has to do with moving that cam
Agreed, bare shaft tuning is really touchy, you really have to have your form figured out. Center shot is also important!
Eventually you move off target chasing the fletched arrow
Yeah, I could use all the help I can get I got the equipment to do it just don’t know the technical aspect of it
Yeah, if you watch a few of my bow build videos it will get the basics, then watch a few of the tuning videos and it should get you pretty close to where you need to be. I dont have all the videos out yet, but I'm working on that!
Yeah, I will do that sir. Thanks again for your help man you don’t know what it’s like down here in Ontario because I got these big box stores but they don’t know how to tune shit cause they hire anyone off the street that you don’t I mean that doesn’t know nothing
That’s great but u gotta start out dialed in with a fletched arrow
How do you mean?
@@isaacbedford4082 u keep moving ur rest till ur bareshaft hits woth fletched well how do u know if your fletched arrow is tuned
@@jasonnester9514 The reason I shoot the bare shaft and the fletched arrow the same is so that the fletched arrow will be tuned properly. It will make the arrow with fletchings more forgiving, as it will fly out of the bow straighter.
@@isaacbedford4082 I know why u do it I run my own pro shop I don’t think u understand my question but that’s fine good luck this deer season
@@jasonnester9514 Thanks man! Already got 2 on the ground. Good luck to you as well!
I never look on paper tune.. Just french tune and walk back..
That's a pretty good form of tuning ad well!
I watched several youtube videos on how to bareshaft tune and most videos say if you shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow and if the bareshaft arrow hits to the right of the fletched arrow, move the rest to the RIGHT towards the bareshaft (chasing the bareshaft). And then you said if you the bareshaft and fletched arrow and if the bareshaft would hit to the right of the fletched arrow, move the arrow rest to the LEFT towards the fletched arrow (chasing the fletched arrow).
I'm confused. Which one is it?
Thanks.
I on accidentally reversed it in the video. And didnt realize until after I out the video out.
@@isaacbedford4082 So which way should I move the rest if I have a nock left point right impact from the fletched arrow?
@bobbydenezza7795 move it left the bareshaft is coming out of the bow pointed right. if you know your center shot is good and have yokes you can also yoke tune if it you have access to a press
Great info. Thanks!
Anytime!
Great explanation
Thankyou!
do you have to sight in your bow prior to using your method?
As long as it is sighted in enough to stay on the target then it is all good!
I bareshaft tuned at 20 yards shooting through paper and into the target. If I am getting a clean bullet hole at 20 yards with a bareshaft, is it necessary to go back to 50 yards and shoot a bareshaft in paper to see if you can still get a perfect bullet hole from 50 or do you think that once you get a good bullet hole at 20, you will get a good bullet hole from 50?
What I would do is paper tune all your arrows, make sure ALL of them are shooting a bullet hole at 5 yards, including the bare shaft. Because sometimes the bareshaft simply isnt a "good" arrow then for fine tuning I would bareshaft tune at 20, realistically if you do that field points wilm be tuned other than that i would leave it. If you are going to be shooting broadheads, then i would broadhead tune after you have already done all of this.
The way to get all of them shooting a bullet hole if they arent already is to simply rotate the nock.
@@isaacbedford4082 Yeah I bareshaft tuned using a Shooting machine from 20 yd and I got a perfect bullet hole through paper. Then I shot a fletched arrow with field points and it hit within 1" from the bareshaft and made a perfect bullet hole. My bow is tuned perfectly.
So after that, i shot all my arrows with field points and i had a nice tight grouping within an inch. And Then I took the field points off all thr arrows and put broadheads on them and shot my broadheads and they still don't hit in the same spot as my field points even though I shot a clean bullet hole at 20 yards when tuning.
They all hit all over the place within 3 to 4 " from the field point impact. I get great groups with my field points hitting consistently in the same spot, but the broadheads are inconsistent despite the bow being bareshaft tuned. Like you said. I tried turning the nocks on the arrows to get the broadheads to hit better with field points and it still didnt work.
What else should I do to fix this?
Wrong on left / right . . Move rest TOWARDS bareshaft ( opposite of paper )
Yeah, I realized I said it backwards in the video! Sorry about that!
Nice!
Yessir, it's written in the description, right after I posted it I realized my mistake.
@@isaacbedford4082 ah I’m sorry I’ll delete. Fully agree paper isn’t worth using.
Forgive me, still a beginner, does this method assume the sight is dead on before doing it?
No because it is the 2 arrows relative to each other. Not relative to a target.
Is it the same a nock tune bare shaft
It is kind of, other than I'm not shooting through paper and I'm moving the rest instead of the nock.
@@isaacbedford4082 thanks
@@georgetorres6245 for sure!
@@isaacbedford4082 thank you I like archery I’m still learning
Thank you!
Anytime! Is there any informational video you would want me to put out?
So you do nothing with the top hats?
I never have had to use top hats, I've found that if the arrows are not sitting within ⅜ of an inch of the middle of the riser the spines of my arrows are off.
3/8 left or right from 13/16 or from center shot?
@@jakebowden4325 I stay within the ⅜ from the 13/16 ths, for me if it isnt within those parameters then the sline of the arrows are off.
He should be useing top hats and not moving his rest back and forth
You got it!!
When do you adjust your sight?
I move my sight whenever I move my rest. Even though it won't be exact it will keep you on the target.