BTW, if U' use Bohning blue hot melt then best way to get point off from carbon arrow is boiling water. Not possible to over heat shaft so it's safe way to remove points.
I knew you put this video out but could not for the life of me remember when.. I finally found it again after re watching most of your videos lol. Thank you so much, this is going to help me out a lot!
This is the first video that I actually understood !! Excellent description of what and why. Thank you, wish you were on this side of the states I would be in the shop tomorrow to tune my VXR 28
Great video. I tried this with some arrows for my compound target bow, but my experience was different. These arrows were over-spined for the bow yet bare shafts hit right with nock left as shown in your vid for weak spines. Be aware that shafts with too stiff a spine can act this way in a compound bow. I think that with a compound bow, a too stiff shaft becomes hypersensitive to technique so different archers will get different results. After weakening the spine by adding more point weight or using new shafts at full length, I got good bare-shaft performance at 20 yards, even started breaking nocks. I was using 28" linejammer pro shafts (350 spine) with a 110 grain glue-in point for my 52# compound bow. Making them up full length 32" weakened the spine just enough while adding about 28 grains weight, but alternatively I had to go to 165 grain point at 30" to accomplish the same result. Since Linejammer Pro shafts went obsolete, you can get some good deals on Ebay and these are great shafts for both indoor and 3D.
A bare shaft hitting left or right does not ONLY mean its a spine issue. Could be needing to shim a cam or a very very small rest adjustment. And it is very hard to get an arrow that's "too stiff." Just more meticulous to tune.
I appreciate these videos. I live in a major city with two pro shops, however, one doesn't believe in paper tuning unless you shoot a 300 and the other says that you can't change the center line of your shot 🤷♂️. That being said, I'm resolving the situation with D.I.Y.. Thank You!
Most of what I've read says bare shaft left/right does not indicate a spine issue for modern compound bows with release aids. Easton and Gold Tip both agree that bare shaft tuning for arrow spine is only for fingers.
There is some really great content in this and other videos you have. Your explanations are clear, concise and an enormous help. You have become a real go-to source for me with my archery quandaries. From your information alone, I've noticed massive reductions in my group sizes at all ranges. I find myself re-watching your videos with each bow set-up I do. I'd like to repay the service you provide....Does your shop ship merchandise to Australia (online shop?). Thanking you so very much.
I agree with you on bare shaft tuning. Fletchings are a rudder. They will cover up minor errors. So, it's a good idea to bare shaft tune all your. Also, it is a good idea to bare shaft tune all your arrows in a new pack (dozen or 6). If you see a trend after 4-6 arrows. It's time to hit the paper. You might get 2-4 arrows that just won't play nice. Put, the best 6 away for hunting &/or competition. I do disagree on cutting the shaft. Cutting the shaft is a wood trad bow procedure. Yes, a shorter arrow will have a stiffer spline. A longer arrow will be a little weaker. Carbon shaft spine number is based off of a 28" arrow with a specific weighted weight above or below the middle of the arrow. Also, many charts will be based on 100 -125gr field tip arrows. Know these when checking the spine charts.
I have two questions the first one is very simple. 1. I understand why you would take the insert and field tip off of the fletched arrow but is there a reason why you wouldn’t just leave it in the bare shaft and cut off of the knock end? 2. I want to understand the physics of why you move the rest towards the point of impact. Thank you. Marty
Interesting that arrow spine is that specific to each bow. I’ve always thought as long as I’m using the recommended spine for my specs, that was good enough.
I'm telling you, you have to stop teaching so well! I'm becoming addicted to your knowledge and how you explain things! I'm FINALLY being coached, and WOW! is it making a difference! This coaching, combined with your videos, is making so much sense! My coach stated that in outside of the Archer's Paradox and off the Archer's charts because of my DL (33") down to a 32.5" and made my D-loop a little longer. It's making a difference downrange! Next is increasing my 2318s to 2712s for Lancaster and Vegas! And I ALWAYS use Smith Brothers where possible! *On my 2318s, I use TopHat. But I reAlly like those Smith Broa that you mentioned - and I ordered: twice, last year!! (3D Black Eagle PS23s at 31.5".) Anyway, TMI, I'm interested in Beiter nocks this year as I seem to have better results out of either Black9 or my CT9s! Tons of information, and I'm willing to call. For more information! Get out there and enjoy God's Great Creation (QAD)! And don't forget, Precision is a decision!! 😜
I always glue the insert in the other end of my bareshaft. That way i only have to remove the nock when shortening the arrow. When the tune is good i will remove the insert and glue it to the correct end
@@frankthomsen2350 like if you glue the insert into one end why would you remove it and glue it to the other end? You can just remove the nock and cut the back of the arrow, put the nock back in.
@@InsideOutPrecision haha, maybe i am not being clear - sorry, english is not my first language. What i mean is the arrow has some text on it which i want to the back. So for the bare shafts i put the nock on the end which will eventually be the insert end. That way i can keep sawing off at the end with the nock (which is easier to remove) until the arrow is in tune. Afterwards i will glue the insert to the other end when im done. Added benefit: i cut in the end that will receive the least amount of force so if the cut had a minor defect then the risk of the arrow splintering when i release is smaller
10:00 ARE YOU SHIMMING JUST THE TOP OR BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM EQUAL AMOUNTS....OR START WITH THE TOP UNTIL IT GETS EXCESSIVE AND THE BACK THE TOP OFF A BIT AND BRING THE BOTTOM IN ALING WITH THE TOp?
It depends on how bad your tear r or L is. I had a really bad right tear so I shimmed both cams and it corrected it. A minor tear just try adjusting the top cam.
I am such an IDIOT! Bought the VXT test kit with (6) arrows in two different spines. I thought that the shaft was what too stiff, and then I realized that I built the arrows BACKWARDS! The front of the shaft is wider than the rear, and I didn’t noticed that I had it reversed. Haha Well it was the first set of arrows I every built, and now I get the privileged of building them again! :)
could you explain this for left bows? there is almost no information for left bows on the internet. how can i read a weak or a stiff arrow on a left bow doing a bare shaft tuning?
Sounds like the guy from bow shop bible 👌👍😎 I shoot a black 5 at 31” & 82lb.... VERY HARD to find a shaft that can bareshaft tune with point weights under 100gn... VAP TKOs are the best I can find
Nice video. Not sure why you don’t just go right to 8 yards and tune to get a bullet hole with the bare shaft and then go to the target to shoot both fletched and bare shaft. And then tune to bring them together.
I'm shooting the PSE evoke with the binary evolve cams...and I don't have split yokes on that bow, it has that floater thing unlike the newer system on the PSE EVL where it actually splits the yoke...soo I'm stuck with shimming cams. So I have a nock right tear and i'm gonna move the cam slighly right, BUT do you move both top and bottom cam or just top?
Question for you: I want to run a 125gn Kayuga single bevel fixed blade broadhead + 50gn insert = (175gn up front), four fletched arrows. 60# DW 28.5 ‘ DL Carbon Levitate Should I do this process with a bare shaft arrow and my broad head arrow? The reason for the question is - I’m currently shooting field tips out of the bow but they are only 100gn field tips - hence running 400 spined Victory arrows but if I go by the spine calculator and enter the data with the 175gn up front I need to go to the 350 spined arrows. What would you suggest?
I have been meticulously following every step of your process. I finally got the bare shaft and fletched arrow hitting together. I did ran into an issue. I noticed the fletched arrows hit the target consistently sideways, kicking to the right (tail left) while the bare shaft hits consistently straight. I walk-back tuned and paper-tuned and everything is centered. Do you think my spine is still weak? I ran a fixed blade and hit perfect a 20 yds but I’m afraid BH might steer right at longer distances. Please advice??
Great video! Have you ever used a software program like Archer’s Advantage to help you determine a starting point? If so, have you found the software very accurate?
Could you possibly be getting fletching contact? Fletched arrow is hitting test and flying above the bare shaft? Archery is fun but once you start going down the rabbit hole you wished you didn’t because it can drive you crazy.
I was wondering as I watched this if u were going to bring up nock tuning that bare shaft. I never fletch a shaft until I bare shaft tune them & make sure I make turns of a 1/8 in 1 direction or another to hit the target straight on & not. I use a SEVR target with the grid lines on it so u can match up the lines so they r parallel to your shaft. I also walk back & do this. Generally I find 1 arrow out of 9 that isn't behaving as consistent as the rest of the bare shafts.
couldnt the spine be off as far as spine aligned to the nock do you recommend nock tuning all the arrows before or after cutting arrows or moving rest or top hats?
I have a Bear Escape bow that for me has been hard to tune. That being said I've killed a lot of deer with this bow. I have a Bear Agenda that is also hard to tune (for me, I'm no expert). I usually just had to live with a slight right tear. I am shooting at 70 lbs, 28" draw length, Gold Tip Velocity XT 340 spine arrows with 100 grain tips. I just installed new custom string and cables from 60X and the bow is in perfect time. I was determined to get this bow in tune. In order to finally get a bullet hole I had to take 6 turns out of the left and add 6 turns to the right on the yoke, and also tweak the rest a little. When eyeballing the center shot it looks off slightly but for the first time I'm getting a bullet hole and perfect paper tear with fletching. Is 6 turns an unusual amount of adjustment to have to make on a bow?
so when you figure out what length and weight and spine of arrow your bow likes can you switch brand of arrows or do you need to retest with each brand.
As a left handed shooter I was under the impression that a bare shaft that hits to the left of my fletched arrow ment it was over spined not under spined is this correct?
what if i walk back tune arrows and they are hitting to the left after this, but bareshaft tune is fine, and if i move my rest then i'm gonna screw up the bareshaft tune
Does right and left handed shooter make a difference if I am shooting with a release and a shoot through riser? I shot Olympic recurve for a long time and I knew about archers paradox and bare shaft tuning in that platform. Does it work the same for compound shooting?
If you take the nock out and put it on the other end( assuming everyone wants the logos up) then you glue in once and remove the nock every time you cut.
Well I watched your video and I shot a hole in my fletch today so I tried that bear shaft thing at 30 yardsI was 2 1/2 feet off and in I wood fence So that got me thinkingAnd I put on last year’s Broadhead it was 2 inches low at 50 yards I can live with that but it’s a mechanical Broadhead and I broke off both of the blades in my target shooting the new embark but I knocked on I’ve noticed my arrows do the little kick whip thing birthday group good looking for guidance
In my limited experience, it’s getting hard to find a shop willing to do this, especially if you’re not some kind of sponsored shooter. The comment is always the same: “you don’t hunt/compete with a bare shaft”
@@ciaranward4685 Because ideally you shorten both arrows at the same time and one of them is fletched. However, in another video he comments that you CAN just cut the bare shaft arrow at the nock end, BUT ideally you cut them both. I understand that arrow wraps can make an arrow more visible after you hit a game animal - if you arrow penetrates poorly - or make it easier to find an arrow after a pass through or miss, but I see arrow wraps as a performance reducer and don't use them because other than the "signaling" effects, they reduce dynamic spine and reduce FOC, adding weight at the wrong end of the arrow.
IS IT COMMON PRACTICE TO PAPER TUNE...WEATHER BARE SHAFT OR NOT...AT MULTIPLE DISTANCES. IF NOT IT WOUKD SEEM THAT YOU MIGHT POSSIBLY TUNING THE BOW TO WHERE THE ARROW IS GOING THROUGH PAPER PERFECT AT THAT EXACT TIME/DISTANCE?
Don’t think you mentioned it in the video. My bare shaft is about 1” to the right and 1-2” low, compared to fletched. This is pretty average at 20 yards. Thoughts?
I read 2 articles when I Googled how to bareshaft tune and one article says if you shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow and if the bareshaft arrow hits to the right of the fletched arrow, move the rest to the right towards the bareshaft (chasing the bareshaft). And then the other article says if you the bareshaft and fletched arrow and if the bareshaft would hit to the right of the fletched arrow, move the arrow rest to the LEFT towards the fletched arrow (chasing the fletched arrow). I'm confused. Which one is it? I'm guess you should move your rest towards the fletched arrow since the bareshaft is expected to be shooting bad and you're trying to fix it to match the way the fletched arrow is shooting so you can group them together. Which one is it? Thanks.
I don't understand how you are randomly picking an arrow and a point weight and a length and getting a bullet hole. I thought the process of bare shaft tuning was to get you to the point of shooting a bullet hole
Just a generalization. I can tune any bow to shoot a bullet hole through paper, but during flight a weak arrow will almost always kick tail high-left, and a stiff will almost always kick tail low-right
Couldn't disagree more. Your videos are fantastic. Keep what you're doing. I appreciate the level of detail. I have learned so much about archery through this channel.
HELP HELP HELP!!! Awesome video! I have a serious problem. Hoyt helix ultra 260 easton axis Regular necks and inserts 125gr points I'm a 32" draw. 73lbs ( from factory 70-80lb bow) Arrow length is 30.5 My bare shafts always kick right. (No torque or facial pressure) Help!!!!!
This is the 5th time I've watched this and I still learn more and more. You are a legend brother
Thank you for walking through the process, this is one of the best videos I have run across. Keep up the good work!
Thanks as always for the shout! great video and super informative as always. Thank You!
Hope it drives some more business your way! Thanks for the great product 👊🏼👊🏼
BTW, if U' use Bohning blue hot melt then best way to get point off from carbon arrow is boiling water. Not possible to over heat shaft so it's safe way to remove points.
so just put arrow in boiling water
@@raphael6488 that point end, not whole arrow
@@Tipe72 ok
? Same for East X10 parallel pros?
@@TYB439 Why not. Idea is let that Bohning blue to melt.
Thank you. I finally understand what everyone is talking about when putting this entire bare shaft process together.
I knew you put this video out but could not for the life of me remember when.. I finally found it again after re watching most of your videos lol. Thank you so much, this is going to help me out a lot!
This is the first video that I actually understood !! Excellent description of what and why. Thank you, wish you were on this side of the states I would be in the shop tomorrow to tune my VXR 28
Great video. I tried this with some arrows for my compound target bow, but my experience was different. These arrows were over-spined for the bow yet bare shafts hit right with nock left as shown in your vid for weak spines. Be aware that shafts with too stiff a spine can act this way in a compound bow. I think that with a compound bow, a too stiff shaft becomes hypersensitive to technique so different archers will get different results. After weakening the spine by adding more point weight or using new shafts at full length, I got good bare-shaft performance at 20 yards, even started breaking nocks. I was using 28" linejammer pro shafts (350 spine) with a 110 grain glue-in point for my 52# compound bow. Making them up full length 32" weakened the spine just enough while adding about 28 grains weight, but alternatively I had to go to 165 grain point at 30" to accomplish the same result. Since Linejammer Pro shafts went obsolete, you can get some good deals on Ebay and these are great shafts for both indoor and 3D.
Eye opening video. Very well explained. When I shot my bare shaft I was hitting right of my fletched now I realize that I was under spined.
A bare shaft hitting left or right does not ONLY mean its a spine issue. Could be needing to shim a cam or a very very small rest adjustment. And it is very hard to get an arrow that's "too stiff." Just more meticulous to tune.
Yeah I cover the rest movement in this video. But if it’s a bullet hole through paper and then significantly right or left it’s usually a spine issue.
Great video Callen, good info to digest and reuse again and again.
Thanks for sharing your expertise!!
Very informative and you could not have posted this video at a better time
I appreciate these videos. I live in a major city with two pro shops, however, one doesn't believe in paper tuning unless you shoot a 300 and the other says that you can't change the center line of your shot 🤷♂️. That being said, I'm resolving the situation with D.I.Y.. Thank You!
Great video. I have always paper tuned my bare shaft, and shot it out to 20 yards, but I haven’t manipulated the spine to achieve a tune.
When you say you haven’t ever manipulated the arrow spine do you mean that you haven’t nock tuned your arrows or is there something else
Great information brother!!!
Love this explanation. Seriously, thank you :)
Most of what I've read says bare shaft left/right does not indicate a spine issue for modern compound bows with release aids. Easton and Gold Tip both agree that bare shaft tuning for arrow spine is only for fingers.
But how do you know if you should adjust your rest or the spine?
There is some really great content in this and other videos you have.
Your explanations are clear, concise and an enormous help.
You have become a real go-to source for me with my archery quandaries.
From your information alone, I've noticed massive reductions in my group sizes at all ranges.
I find myself re-watching your videos with each bow set-up I do.
I'd like to repay the service you provide....Does your shop ship merchandise to Australia (online shop?).
Thanking you so very much.
I agree with you on bare shaft tuning. Fletchings are a rudder. They will cover up minor errors. So, it's a good idea to bare shaft tune all your. Also, it is a good idea to bare shaft tune all your arrows in a new pack (dozen or 6). If you see a trend after 4-6 arrows. It's time to hit the paper. You might get 2-4 arrows that just won't play nice. Put, the best 6 away for hunting &/or competition. I do disagree on cutting the shaft. Cutting the shaft is a wood trad bow procedure. Yes, a shorter arrow will have a stiffer spline. A longer arrow will be a little weaker. Carbon shaft spine number is based off of a 28" arrow with a specific weighted weight above or below the middle of the arrow. Also, many charts will be based on 100 -125gr field tip arrows. Know these when checking the spine charts.
Awesome video bro
I have two questions the first one is very simple.
1. I understand why you would take the insert and field tip off of the fletched arrow but is there a reason why you wouldn’t just leave it in the bare shaft and cut off of the knock end?
2. I want to understand the physics of why you move the rest towards the point of impact.
Thank you. Marty
Fantastic video!
Interesting that arrow spine is that specific to each bow. I’ve always thought as long as I’m using the recommended spine for my specs, that was good enough.
In general they will be. This is just taking it to the next level. Need to be a pretty consistent shooter to really benefit from it
Good information, thanks for sharing
I'm telling you, you have to stop teaching so well! I'm becoming addicted to your knowledge and how you explain things!
I'm FINALLY being coached, and WOW! is it making a difference! This coaching, combined with your videos, is making so much sense! My coach stated that in outside of the Archer's Paradox and off the Archer's charts because of my DL (33") down to a 32.5" and made my D-loop a little longer. It's making a difference downrange! Next is increasing my 2318s to 2712s for Lancaster and Vegas! And I ALWAYS use Smith Brothers where possible! *On my 2318s, I use TopHat. But I reAlly like those Smith Broa that you mentioned - and I ordered: twice, last year!! (3D Black Eagle PS23s at 31.5".) Anyway, TMI, I'm interested in Beiter nocks this year as I seem to have better results out of either Black9 or my CT9s! Tons of information, and I'm willing to call. For more information! Get out there and enjoy God's Great Creation (QAD)! And don't forget, Precision is a decision!! 😜
I always glue the insert in the other end of my bareshaft. That way i only have to remove the nock when shortening the arrow.
When the tune is good i will remove the insert and glue it to the correct end
@@frankthomsen2350 I’m confused…. Wouldnt you have to remove the nock regardless of what side the insert glued into??
@@InsideOutPrecision yes but the nock is not glued. Much easier
@@frankthomsen2350 I’m still confused haha …either way, the insert is glued in and the nock isn’t …
@@frankthomsen2350 like if you glue the insert into one end why would you remove it and glue it to the other end? You can just remove the nock and cut the back of the arrow, put the nock back in.
@@InsideOutPrecision haha, maybe i am not being clear - sorry, english is not my first language.
What i mean is the arrow has some text on it which i want to the back. So for the bare shafts i put the nock on the end which will eventually be the insert end. That way i can keep sawing off at the end with the nock (which is easier to remove) until the arrow is in tune. Afterwards i will glue the insert to the other end when im done.
Added benefit: i cut in the end that will receive the least amount of force so if the cut had a minor defect then the risk of the arrow splintering when i release is smaller
10:00
ARE YOU SHIMMING JUST THE TOP OR BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM EQUAL AMOUNTS....OR START WITH THE TOP UNTIL IT GETS EXCESSIVE AND THE BACK THE TOP OFF A BIT AND BRING THE BOTTOM IN ALING WITH THE TOp?
Shims move the entire string left or right, you have to do both.
I WAS REFERRING TO MOVING THE CAMS? INDEPENDENTLY OR BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM HAVE TO MIRROR EACH OTHER...OR A COMBO OF BOTH
They don't have to be the same. I've set up bows straight from the factory that had different size shims or top hats.
It depends on how bad your tear r or L is. I had a really bad right tear so I shimmed both cams and it corrected it. A minor tear just try adjusting the top cam.
I am such an IDIOT! Bought the VXT test kit with (6) arrows in two different spines. I thought that the shaft was what too stiff, and then I realized that I built the arrows BACKWARDS! The front of the shaft is wider than the rear, and I didn’t noticed that I had it reversed. Haha
Well it was the first set of arrows I every built, and now I get the privileged of building them again! :)
could you explain this for left bows? there is almost no information for left bows on the internet. how can i read a weak or a stiff arrow on a left bow doing a bare shaft tuning?
Seriously..... he literally said in the video its opposite for left handed shooters. Take what he said and reverse it 🤦♂️
Sounds like the guy from bow shop bible 👌👍😎
I shoot a black 5 at 31” & 82lb.... VERY HARD to find a shaft that can bareshaft tune with point weights under 100gn... VAP TKOs are the best I can find
Nice video. Not sure why you don’t just go right to 8 yards and tune to get a bullet hole with the bare shaft and then go to the target to shoot both fletched and bare shaft. And then tune to bring them together.
I'm shooting the PSE evoke with the binary evolve cams...and I don't have split yokes on that bow, it has that floater thing unlike the newer system on the PSE EVL where it actually splits the yoke...soo I'm stuck with shimming cams. So I have a nock right tear and i'm gonna move the cam slighly right, BUT do you move both top and bottom cam or just top?
Question for you:
I want to run a 125gn Kayuga single bevel fixed blade broadhead + 50gn insert = (175gn up front), four fletched arrows.
60# DW
28.5 ‘ DL
Carbon Levitate
Should I do this process with a bare shaft arrow and my broad head arrow?
The reason for the question is - I’m currently shooting field tips out of the bow but they are only 100gn field tips - hence running 400 spined Victory arrows but if I go by the spine calculator and enter the data with the 175gn up front I need to go to the 350 spined arrows.
What would you suggest?
I have been meticulously following every step of your process. I finally got the bare shaft and fletched arrow hitting together. I did ran into an issue. I noticed the fletched arrows hit the target consistently sideways, kicking to the right (tail left) while the bare shaft hits consistently straight. I walk-back tuned and paper-tuned and everything is centered. Do you think my spine is still weak? I ran a fixed blade and hit perfect a 20 yds but I’m afraid BH might steer right at longer distances. Please advice??
Do you bare shaft tune away from centershot ? I.e centershot down the middle but bare shaft tune, arrow is pointing off to the left by alot ?
Great video! Have you ever used a software program like Archer’s Advantage to help you determine a starting point? If so, have you found the software very accurate?
So where would you start for arrow length? 2" longer then draw length and then start tuning?
Any chance you covered the bare shaft hitting low and angled low in another video? I am hitting bare shaft low regardless of where I move my rest
Could you possibly be getting fletching contact? Fletched arrow is hitting test and flying above the bare shaft? Archery is fun but once you start going down the rabbit hole you wished you didn’t because it can drive you crazy.
I was wondering as I watched this if u were going to bring up nock tuning that bare shaft. I never fletch a shaft until I bare shaft tune them & make sure I make turns of a 1/8 in 1 direction or another to hit the target straight on & not. I use a SEVR target with the grid lines on it so u can match up the lines so they r parallel to your shaft. I also walk back & do this. Generally I find 1 arrow out of 9 that isn't behaving as consistent as the rest of the bare shafts.
couldnt the spine be off as far as spine aligned to the nock do you recommend nock tuning all the arrows before or after cutting arrows or moving rest or top hats?
I have a Bear Escape bow that for me has been hard to tune. That being said I've killed a lot of deer with this bow. I have a Bear Agenda that is also hard to tune (for me, I'm no expert). I usually just had to live with a slight right tear. I am shooting at 70 lbs, 28" draw length, Gold Tip Velocity XT 340 spine arrows with 100 grain tips. I just installed new custom string and cables from 60X and the bow is in perfect time. I was determined to get this bow in tune. In order to finally get a bullet hole I had to take 6 turns out of the left and add 6 turns to the right on the yoke, and also tweak the rest a little. When eyeballing the center shot it looks off slightly but for the first time I'm getting a bullet hole and perfect paper tear with fletching. Is 6 turns an unusual amount of adjustment to have to make on a bow?
Is it possible to have one bare shaft perfectly bullet hole with a not properly tuned bow, so none of the other shafts tune?
Yes, i figured that out the hard way
Are u 100% to what u say.. i get the opposite results. Right nock. Left inpact down range. Weaker the shaft. The more nock right?
so when you figure out what length and weight and spine of arrow your bow likes can you switch brand of arrows or do you need to retest with each brand.
As long as the spine is the same the brand won’t matter
How well do pre made arrows shoot for a fairly experienced shooter?
When does the bare shaft video start?
As a left handed shooter I was under the impression that a bare shaft that hits to the left of my fletched arrow ment it was over spined not under spined is this correct?
No a weak spine generally generally cause the back of the arrow to kick away from the bow
what if i walk back tune arrows and they are hitting to the left after this, but bareshaft tune is fine, and if i move my rest then i'm gonna screw up the bareshaft tune
After tuning with the hot melt and you’re dialled in, do you then glue all your components in with a hard setting glue or epoxy ?
No the hot melt will hold every thing
@@InsideOutPrecision Bohning Ferr-L-Tite hot melt ?
Does right and left handed shooter make a difference if I am shooting with a release and a shoot through riser? I shot Olympic recurve for a long time and I knew about archers paradox and bare shaft tuning in that platform. Does it work the same for compound shooting?
Yes
How far away from target are you starting at? And what target is that?
If I have an arrow length I want, can I tune the spine by just changing point weight instead of cutting the shaft.
Yeah you can
Do you believe in nock tuning?
@25yds my bare shaft dang near hits sideways! Its crazy, straight fletcher hits 2" to the left and helical his 2" left of thoes!
Sounds like your bkw needs some serious work!
If you take the nock out and put it on the other end( assuming everyone wants the logos up) then you glue in once and remove the nock every time you cut.
Awesome vid. The guy in the last one I watched said bare shaft tuning is a waste of time. 🤣😂
Ok.. My bare shaft hits dead center (left to right) where im aiming.. But.. Its about 4 in higher than the fletched shafts.. Suggestions?
Drop your rest like 1/32"
@@InsideOutPrecision ok.. So move the bare shaft to the fletched... Correct..
9:30
6ft or 6yds?
how much difference does a grain or two really make down range at say 20 to 60 yards?
Would depend how good you can shoot. Unless you are a great shot there are a lot of factors that would effect things more than 2 grains of weight
None whatsoever. Unless You are in the Olympics ... :P
Well I watched your video and I shot a hole in my fletch today so I tried that bear shaft thing at 30 yardsI was 2 1/2 feet off and in I wood fence So that got me thinkingAnd I put on last year’s Broadhead it was 2 inches low at 50 yards I can live with that but it’s a mechanical Broadhead and I broke off both of the blades in my target shooting the new embark but I knocked on I’ve noticed my arrows do the little kick whip thing birthday group good looking for guidance
why not just trim the back of the arrow so you don't have to keep heating it up?
If you aren’t playing with different point weights that’s definitely the best option!
What brand are those clear vanes?
Gas pro 400’s. Flex-fletch makes a clear vane also
In my limited experience, it’s getting hard to find a shop willing to do this, especially if you’re not some kind of sponsored shooter. The comment is always the same: “you don’t hunt/compete with a bare shaft”
Which has best advantage for deer hunting bare shaft or fletched shaft arrows?
Why not trim the arrow at the nock end?
Because one of them is fetched and both probably have arrow wraps.
@@ciaranward4685 Because ideally you shorten both arrows at the same time and one of them is fletched. However, in another video he comments that you CAN just cut the bare shaft arrow at the nock end, BUT ideally you cut them both. I understand that arrow wraps can make an arrow more visible after you hit a game animal - if you arrow penetrates poorly - or make it easier to find an arrow after a pass through or miss, but I see arrow wraps as a performance reducer and don't use them because other than the "signaling" effects, they reduce dynamic spine and reduce FOC, adding weight at the wrong end of the arrow.
IS IT COMMON PRACTICE TO PAPER TUNE...WEATHER BARE SHAFT OR NOT...AT MULTIPLE DISTANCES. IF NOT IT WOUKD SEEM THAT YOU MIGHT POSSIBLY TUNING THE BOW TO WHERE THE ARROW IS GOING THROUGH PAPER PERFECT AT THAT EXACT TIME/DISTANCE?
Correct. It's always best to check your tune from distance, whether paper tuning or not.
Don’t think you mentioned it in the video. My bare shaft is about 1” to the right and 1-2” low, compared to fletched. This is pretty average at 20 yards. Thoughts?
I read 2 articles when I Googled how to bareshaft tune and one article says if you shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow and if the bareshaft arrow hits to the right of the fletched arrow, move the rest to the right towards the bareshaft (chasing the bareshaft). And then the other article says if you the bareshaft and fletched arrow and if the bareshaft would hit to the right of the fletched arrow, move the arrow rest to the LEFT towards the fletched arrow (chasing the fletched arrow).
I'm confused. Which one is it? I'm guess you should move your rest towards the fletched arrow since the bareshaft is expected to be shooting bad and you're trying to fix it to match the way the fletched arrow is shooting so you can group them together. Which one is it?
Thanks.
Yeah don’t use Google when it comes to archery haha.
@@InsideOutPrecision So which way do you move your rest?
I don't understand how you are randomly picking an arrow and a point weight and a length and getting a bullet hole. I thought the process of bare shaft tuning was to get you to the point of shooting a bullet hole
So I have a question which pin should I use I normally use the green one but I am just curious
Well use whatever pin you need for the distance you're shooting....usually the top pin is for 20yds
Why are target shafts so thick?
12
I like your videos but you should start walking through what you’re talking about
Not really sure how much more simple I could explain this
@@InsideOutPrecision you explain it very well i would like to see you do it as you explain
I don't agree with you on an arrow that is tearing paper nock right is a stiff arrow and obviously if it tears left is a weak shaft
Just a generalization. I can tune any bow to shoot a bullet hole through paper, but during flight a weak arrow will almost always kick tail high-left, and a stiff will almost always kick tail low-right
🐔? 😂
Dude you are talking way to much with out showing us anything. You gotta be able to walk and chew gum at the same time.
I literally have arrows in my hand the entire time showing what I'm talking about. I can't hold your hand at the same time.
Couldn't disagree more. Your videos are fantastic. Keep what you're doing. I appreciate the level of detail. I have learned so much about archery through this channel.
Lmao these comments 🤣. Very informative buddy!
HELP HELP HELP!!!
Awesome video!
I have a serious problem.
Hoyt helix ultra
260 easton axis
Regular necks and inserts
125gr points
I'm a 32" draw. 73lbs ( from factory 70-80lb bow)
Arrow length is 30.5
My bare shafts always kick right. (No torque or facial pressure)
Help!!!!!