Top 4 Bow Tuning Tips for Bowhunters
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- These are the top 4 bow tuning tips for bowhunters to achieve the utmost accuracy out of their set up without getting too caught up in all of the additional tuning methods and factors that are out there. Ourselves along with many others put out a lot of archery information and details that might complicate things for the newer archers and bowhunters out there so we wanted to break down the most important aspects of your bow set up and tune so you can spend your time appropriately getting the things that matter most right first. Enjoy, and best of luck out there!
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Best person on the internet that actually takes the time to explain the difference between cam timing and cam synchronization. I cringe every time someone does a bow build and they draw a bow back on a draw board and check “timing”.
No kidding! Even the "experts" in magazines and TV don't know the difference.
Your masterclass and videos have utterly changed the way I hunt and shoot bows. God bless you sir.
We are so happy to hear that! Best of luck hunting this fall and God Bless!
I bought a Bear a few years back and my shot groups were super tight.
Sold that and picked up a Mission switch last year and now my shot groups suck.
Now just need to find knowledgeable person to help me out. Thanks for all this info
This is a big reason I went with a bowtech on my last upgrade. You don't need a bow press to adjust your cams. Meaning if I have an issue on an elk hunt I don't have to waste a day driving into town. Good video and I agree you don't need a 500+ grain arrow even for elk with most modern setups. I am shooting 464 grns between 285-290 fps, fixed 3 blade g5, on a 300 sp. 4mm eaton axis. Its light and fast but packs a massive punch. I clipped a front shoulder last year and still passed through at 40 yds. Too much front end weight can cause you to miss if your ranging is off by just a couple yards. IE you range a tree at 36 and that elk crossed behind at 39.
Great video with nothing but truth that a lot of the industry isn’t advertising or advocating.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Its great to have a number (6-7 grains per lb of draw weight) You hear a lot of different opinions on arrow weight and this simplifies it quite a bit! Both my husband and I enjoy your videos!
You're very welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful and thank you for watching.
Another great job Josh, thank you.
Thank you Doug!
Outstanding advice, thanks
Your videos are just the right mix of detail and knowledge. I shoot 62.19 lbs. with a total arrow weight (with 125 grain tips) of 430 grains. You mentioned an ideal arrow weight of 6-7 grains. Is this with or without tips?
Thank you. With tips, but your arrow weight is right there, I wouldn't change anything.
Great channel bud 👍 I'm an amateur and new to the sport. Your videos help out a ton
Welcome! I’m happy to help
@BowOnlyOutdoors a sticking point I am at now is clothing when it comes to noise and smell. Any thoughts on making a video on that, or am I overthinking that?
Great advice! Thanks!👍
lower the pound off pull the more important it is to use a heavier arrow, going lighter will significantly reduce penetration. your limited so you dont have the option iff you cant increase draw weight (under 60lb)
Thanks,great info.
Made my eyes widen when u said the issue isn't the weight of your arrow but the poundage of your bow. I see so much saying you need to shoot a 600gr arrow and I'm using about a 400gr arrow at 28 inches with a 70lb compound and haven't had a single pass thru issue yet so maybe I've just been lucky so far but I'm going to be using the swhacker #207 for the first time this season and will see if that passes thru just as good as my fixed blades did last season with my current setup. Anyone else have arrows and draw weight similar to mine that uses swhacker mechanicals, and are they worth using on a lighter set up such as mine?
I shot a 405gr total arrow weight with original swhacker with 28" draw at about 70lbs for years never had any issues, but I shoot 30 yards and in.
I’ve been working on an invention which is a single bevel broad head that can hold an apple AirTag in the center of the broad head. I’ve been testing it out and the AirTag survives when I shoot into a sandbox. I’m surprised no one has ever thought of this.
Very cool! I’ve seen this done with bluetooth in nocks, but know many states don’t allow it as it is “aiding in the harvest” of an animal.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors, not to mention you need cell service to use an apple AirTag. I hunt in an area where I have good cell service. I lost a deer last year which gave me the idea. My invention is much cheaper than those Bluetooth trackers. Though you need cell service.
Broadheads hitting 3 inches high at every yardage, new sight tape? Or rest adjustment?
1. Are your field points also hitting 3” high at every distance? If so, adjust your sight up slightly until both are impacting perfectly.
2. If they field points are hitting perfect every time but your broadheads are always 3” high , lower your rest slightly, then adjust your sight lower so field points are on, and test again. Repeat until they impact together, although it should not take much.
Great stuff…and spot on about arrow weight!
It’s too bad there are so many archery retailers that don’t follow these vital steps in achieving optimal accuracy for their customers.
Mine doesn’t believe in paper tuning.
Hi I have a question I have a bear cruzer rth sand I got it in 2017 what spine arrow should I use I feel my draw length is wrong I 6 1 hight I had it done at Cabela's I feel they mess up my measurement
So what makes my brodheads fly right by 6 inches? Both fixed and mechanical do this. Field points all travel the same ....
@@RonFleener
Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
this video explains this better than I can in text, but I’ll try to touch on the high level things here.
1. Arrow could be reacting way too weak. (Too much point weight, too long, too weak of shaft, etc) lower bow poundage by at least 5lbs to see if it gets better to prove if this is the issue or not, then adjust your arrow accordingly to match the bow weight you want to shoot if so.
2. You’re torquing your bow grip. (Most common cause of the issue) but note that if they are all consistently flying to the right, you can fix it, as long as you stay consistent with how you’re gripping your bow.
3. Your arrow rest is too far to the left and needs to be moved to the right. (Depending on your bow, don’t go too far out of center shot)
4. Your cams are shimmed too far to the right, and need to be moved to the left. (Depending on what bow you have) if you have yokes, you need to tighten the top left yoke and lengthen the top right yoke.
It is one, or all of these issues, but this video will help you gain a better understanding to fix it. Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thanks. Headed over to check it out now.
Im looking for Archery, but sorry I picked the wrong channel
This video is specially tuning for bowhunters as the title states. There would be different tuning tips for archers over bowhunters for the most forgiveness as both want forgiveness, but the process with broadheads isn’t necessarily the same as with field points. Thanks for the video idea 👍🏻
Great vid!! You did give all the fairy arrow people ptsd.. I'm with you on arrow weight. Keep up the wisdom
Not trying to upset anyone that does prefer to shoot an overly heavy arrow, just trying to steer folks down the right path.
I'll trust Dr. Ed over a kid any day of the week.
@@alexwest4253absolutely lol I shoot adult arrows I have a 32" draw so I shoot 632gr arrow still at 285fps so I have the best of both worlds speed and weight shooing 75lbs bow sorry to the vertically challenged who can't owell keep shooting kids arrows
Bowtech best bows
I have a reign 7 and I've pleased with it for sure.
learn the fundamentals of shooting your bow and find what works for you. The so-called proper way may or may not be what works for you if you learn to shoot in a box you will only get as good as the box lets you
That’s the truth! Archery is all about consistency.
cams dont sinc they way you think, it must be checked drawing the bow yourself, adjusting to your draw with the way your hand pushes the bow. 99% off people doing it on a draw board will not have a sinc bow. its an overemphised thing, not many set it correctly and still shoot well
Supported at 28", not 29", and using a 1.94-lbs weight on the middle.
Correct, a 29” arrow, supported by two points at 28”, with a 880 gram weight in the middle (which is 1.94lbs)
2:13 for reference
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@BowOnlyOutdoors The arrow doesn't need to be cut to 29" before measuring spine, as long as it's supporting at 28" apart. A full length shaft will still bend the same amount between the two points of support.
He's just showing his arrow for example relax bud!!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors LOL so will a 32" arrow supported at 28" flex differently?
But before you do any of these verify that your bow is in spec...
Yep!
🤦
There's no bow tech that has ever called it cam sync.
And that’s the issue. We have cam timing which is when they’re at rest, and then we have cam sync. How the cams are positioned at full draw in relation to each other.
The ones that know do 🤷🏼♂️
@@BowOnlyOutdoorstell John Dudley that
Lol john dudley only believes the bow is a kenitic tool and everything can be fixed with the arrow I don't listen to anything he says and yes most real bow shops and techs know cam out of sync/time is a recipe for issues all day
I’ve watched hundreds of bow tuning videos. They always check the TIMING at full draw
great video! but he needs to relax a bit.. looks like a robot