Best person on the internet that actually takes the time to explain the difference between cam timing and cam synchronization. I cringe every time someone does a bow build and they draw a bow back on a draw board and check “timing”.
I bought a Bear a few years back and my shot groups were super tight. Sold that and picked up a Mission switch last year and now my shot groups suck. Now just need to find knowledgeable person to help me out. Thanks for all this info
This is a big reason I went with a bowtech on my last upgrade. You don't need a bow press to adjust your cams. Meaning if I have an issue on an elk hunt I don't have to waste a day driving into town. Good video and I agree you don't need a 500+ grain arrow even for elk with most modern setups. I am shooting 464 grns between 285-290 fps, fixed 3 blade g5, on a 300 sp. 4mm eaton axis. Its light and fast but packs a massive punch. I clipped a front shoulder last year and still passed through at 40 yds. Too much front end weight can cause you to miss if your ranging is off by just a couple yards. IE you range a tree at 36 and that elk crossed behind at 39.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Its great to have a number (6-7 grains per lb of draw weight) You hear a lot of different opinions on arrow weight and this simplifies it quite a bit! Both my husband and I enjoy your videos!
@BowOnlyOutdoors a sticking point I am at now is clothing when it comes to noise and smell. Any thoughts on making a video on that, or am I overthinking that?
Im a seasoned bow hunter and was a bow tech for years and i was going over a bow that i was messing with months ago and it was shooting really bad for some reason. I looked it over and found in my fiddling i had the bows mods set in two different settings. Dumb mistake but it happens, even with some one who knows better. When i set it in place it must have just sliped a 1/8 of a inch and i didnt catch it tell later. Said that tosay this. Always start at the very basics and double check everything. To be successful in bowhunting a hundred things have to go right and it only takes one mistake to ruin a hunt. Always back to basics.
I anchor under my chin. The reason for this is because it aligns everything and the release is flat in your hand. Typically when you use a release you put it against your cheek. When doing this your release and string are out of alignment with the bow. When you anchor beneath your chin everything is in alignment from the tip of the arrow to your release. It basically eliminates left-right axis play and increases accuracy dramatically. It's also a very solid anchor point that is easily repeated. Give it a shot.
Your videos are just the right mix of detail and knowledge. I shoot 62.19 lbs. with a total arrow weight (with 125 grain tips) of 430 grains. You mentioned an ideal arrow weight of 6-7 grains. Is this with or without tips?
I’ve been working on an invention which is a single bevel broad head that can hold an apple AirTag in the center of the broad head. I’ve been testing it out and the AirTag survives when I shoot into a sandbox. I’m surprised no one has ever thought of this.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors, not to mention you need cell service to use an apple AirTag. I hunt in an area where I have good cell service. I lost a deer last year which gave me the idea. My invention is much cheaper than those Bluetooth trackers. Though you need cell service.
Hey man! Just got a hoytt axius it goes to "30 draw and I measeired my arms 77 and a half divided by 2.5 is 31. Payed a lot for it has lots of upgrades but now I'm sick is there anyway I can shoot with it being "30 or anyway to get it to be longer?
Hey man, the wingspan divided by 2.5 rule is a good way to get close, but is rarely 100% accurate. I would reference this video to see if the draw is in fact short for you. If it is, you can still shoot it, but there really is no replacement for having the correct draw length.
Hey guys!!! If I’m have a jock low tear with bear shaft, should I move the nocking point up or should I adjust the top cam to make it cycle faster than the bottom?!? Which do you recommend or something else?! Thanks guys!!!!
@@Calebott01 if your cams are in sync, adjust your rest down very slightly. If you’re shooting bareshafts through paper, ensure you get the same tear on all of your arrows.
lower the pound off pull the more important it is to use a heavier arrow, going lighter will significantly reduce penetration. your limited so you dont have the option iff you cant increase draw weight (under 60lb)
1. Are your field points also hitting 3” high at every distance? If so, adjust your sight up slightly until both are impacting perfectly. 2. If they field points are hitting perfect every time but your broadheads are always 3” high , lower your rest slightly, then adjust your sight lower so field points are on, and test again. Repeat until they impact together, although it should not take much.
Hi I have a question I have a bear cruzer rth sand I got it in 2017 what spine arrow should I use I feel my draw length is wrong I 6 1 hight I had it done at Cabela's I feel they mess up my measurement
For draw length, hold your arms put and measure from tip to tip of your middle fingers and then divide by 2.5. That will get you within a half inch and then you can fine tune from there. Arrow Spine will matter on your arrow length and poundage your shooting.
@@Spazzzm it’s just follow through from a properly executed surprise release. Think of the follow through similar to how someone would should a basketball or throw a ball. The arrow is gone before the archer has time to react.
Made my eyes widen when u said the issue isn't the weight of your arrow but the poundage of your bow. I see so much saying you need to shoot a 600gr arrow and I'm using about a 400gr arrow at 28 inches with a 70lb compound and haven't had a single pass thru issue yet so maybe I've just been lucky so far but I'm going to be using the swhacker #207 for the first time this season and will see if that passes thru just as good as my fixed blades did last season with my current setup. Anyone else have arrows and draw weight similar to mine that uses swhacker mechanicals, and are they worth using on a lighter set up such as mine?
@@RonFleener Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html this video explains this better than I can in text, but I’ll try to touch on the high level things here. 1. Arrow could be reacting way too weak. (Too much point weight, too long, too weak of shaft, etc) lower bow poundage by at least 5lbs to see if it gets better to prove if this is the issue or not, then adjust your arrow accordingly to match the bow weight you want to shoot if so. 2. You’re torquing your bow grip. (Most common cause of the issue) but note that if they are all consistently flying to the right, you can fix it, as long as you stay consistent with how you’re gripping your bow. 3. Your arrow rest is too far to the left and needs to be moved to the right. (Depending on your bow, don’t go too far out of center shot) 4. Your cams are shimmed too far to the right, and need to be moved to the left. (Depending on what bow you have) if you have yokes, you need to tighten the top left yoke and lengthen the top right yoke. It is one, or all of these issues, but this video will help you gain a better understanding to fix it. Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
@@jacobbickett8392 out of time = cables the wrong length, twisted too much, not twisted enough. Out of sync = serving separation on the cables, cable stretch, moving nocking point.
@@alexwest4253absolutely lol I shoot adult arrows I have a 32" draw so I shoot 632gr arrow still at 285fps so I have the best of both worlds speed and weight shooing 75lbs bow sorry to the vertically challenged who can't owell keep shooting kids arrows
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thank very much! It's so kind of you. I watched this video many times. In fact, I have watched all of your videos. I think these are the best videos about compound bow archery. The reason why I always failed to complete broadhead tuning is perhaps that the bottom cam is leaning to the right. I have not yet prepared a bow press, so it's difficult to adjust the cams temporarily.
Face pressure at full draw is an extreme factor in arrow flight. When your “over anchored” and your string makes too much face contact your string is not releasing without immediate divination. There’s no adjustments that I’ve ever heard of in your arrow selection or bow setup, other than a more accurate draw length, for this factor.
Im from the UK, we are not allowed to go hunting here. I have a sanlida dragon X9 compound bow (I'm new to acherey and will get better bow brand in the future). Do I have to do the cam sync.. All I'm going to do is 3d shooting and target shooting. So what sort of tuning should I do to my compound bow for normal shooting (target shooting and 3d)
This video is specific to bowhunters who need their arrows flying straight so their broadheads fly more accurately. For a target bow, different tuning techniques will apply and I will plan to make a video on this in the future. Ultimately, it doesn’t matter how the arrow comes out of the bow as long as it’s the same every time. The tuning methods for target archers will be based more around bow fit and forgiveness that will allow you to shoot better. Cam sync is generally very close to perfect for target archers, but can be slightly off to achieve the best results.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you for responding, really appreciate you man, your channel is very beneficial as well as dudley you two are actually amazing teachers learned a lot in a month
This video is specially tuning for bowhunters as the title states. There would be different tuning tips for archers over bowhunters for the most forgiveness as both want forgiveness, but the process with broadheads isn’t necessarily the same as with field points. Thanks for the video idea 👍🏻
learn the fundamentals of shooting your bow and find what works for you. The so-called proper way may or may not be what works for you if you learn to shoot in a box you will only get as good as the box lets you
cams dont sinc they way you think, it must be checked drawing the bow yourself, adjusting to your draw with the way your hand pushes the bow. 99% off people doing it on a draw board will not have a sinc bow. its an overemphised thing, not many set it correctly and still shoot well
What you stated is not always true when determining cam sync. Additionally, you can shoot a bow out of sync well, but you will not be able to shoot it out of sync well with broadheads which is why it’s such an important factor and why it’s discussed as one of the top bow tuning tips for bowhunters.
Correct, a 29” arrow, supported by two points at 28”, with a 880 gram weight in the middle (which is 1.94lbs) 2:13 for reference Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@BowOnlyOutdoors The arrow doesn't need to be cut to 29" before measuring spine, as long as it's supporting at 28" apart. A full length shaft will still bend the same amount between the two points of support.
I invented and patented a compound bow that does not require a cable guard. An arrow is nocked the same way an arrow is nocked is nocked on any other compound bow. View RUclips video "COMPOUND BOW NO CABLE GUARD".
So mean you tell me pay all that damn money for a fucking bow to come from the factory right and it’s not timed or synchronize right? does a car come from the factory with the engine off timing or cam off timing? Why pay over $1000 for a bow if it’s not gonna come from the factory, right?
@@CrutonDiablo some things cannot be set from the factory. Details like where you put your nocking point and what draw length mods you have will have an effect on your cam sync making it near impossible to get it perfect right from the factory for every person that may shoot the bow. Generally the timing is perfect from the factory and the sync is typically very close, but almost always needs some slight adjustment regardless of manufacturer.
And that’s the issue. We have cam timing which is when they’re at rest, and then we have cam sync. How the cams are positioned at full draw in relation to each other.
Lol john dudley only believes the bow is a kenitic tool and everything can be fixed with the arrow I don't listen to anything he says and yes most real bow shops and techs know cam out of sync/time is a recipe for issues all day
Best person on the internet that actually takes the time to explain the difference between cam timing and cam synchronization. I cringe every time someone does a bow build and they draw a bow back on a draw board and check “timing”.
No kidding! Even the "experts" in magazines and TV don't know the difference.
Your masterclass and videos have utterly changed the way I hunt and shoot bows. God bless you sir.
We are so happy to hear that! Best of luck hunting this fall and God Bless!
I can see why this can drive archers crazy…there’s so many factors that can go unnoticed…all this for the perfect shot!!
I bought a Bear a few years back and my shot groups were super tight.
Sold that and picked up a Mission switch last year and now my shot groups suck.
Now just need to find knowledgeable person to help me out. Thanks for all this info
This is a big reason I went with a bowtech on my last upgrade. You don't need a bow press to adjust your cams. Meaning if I have an issue on an elk hunt I don't have to waste a day driving into town. Good video and I agree you don't need a 500+ grain arrow even for elk with most modern setups. I am shooting 464 grns between 285-290 fps, fixed 3 blade g5, on a 300 sp. 4mm eaton axis. Its light and fast but packs a massive punch. I clipped a front shoulder last year and still passed through at 40 yds. Too much front end weight can cause you to miss if your ranging is off by just a couple yards. IE you range a tree at 36 and that elk crossed behind at 39.
Great video with nothing but truth that a lot of the industry isn’t advertising or advocating.
Excellent video .this guy knows his stuff well.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Its great to have a number (6-7 grains per lb of draw weight) You hear a lot of different opinions on arrow weight and this simplifies it quite a bit! Both my husband and I enjoy your videos!
You're very welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful and thank you for watching.
There is so much for me to learn. This is a great review.
Great channel bud 👍 I'm an amateur and new to the sport. Your videos help out a ton
Welcome! I’m happy to help
@BowOnlyOutdoors a sticking point I am at now is clothing when it comes to noise and smell. Any thoughts on making a video on that, or am I overthinking that?
Another great job Josh, thank you.
Thank you Doug!
Im a seasoned bow hunter and was a bow tech for years and i was going over a bow that i was messing with months ago and it was shooting really bad for some reason. I looked it over and found in my fiddling i had the bows mods set in two different settings. Dumb mistake but it happens, even with some one who knows better. When i set it in place it must have just sliped a 1/8 of a inch and i didnt catch it tell later. Said that tosay this. Always start at the very basics and double check everything. To be successful in bowhunting a hundred things have to go right and it only takes one mistake to ruin a hunt. Always back to basics.
I anchor under my chin. The reason for this is because it aligns everything and the release is flat in your hand. Typically when you use a release you put it against your cheek. When doing this your release and string are out of alignment with the bow. When you anchor beneath your chin everything is in alignment from the tip of the arrow to your release. It basically eliminates left-right axis play and increases accuracy dramatically. It's also a very solid anchor point that is easily repeated. Give it a shot.
Absolutely correct. I experienced this about 2 years ago.
That's sounds crazy but im going to try it.
Outstanding advice, thanks
Your videos are just the right mix of detail and knowledge. I shoot 62.19 lbs. with a total arrow weight (with 125 grain tips) of 430 grains. You mentioned an ideal arrow weight of 6-7 grains. Is this with or without tips?
Thank you. With tips, but your arrow weight is right there, I wouldn't change anything.
Great advice! Thanks!👍
I’ve been working on an invention which is a single bevel broad head that can hold an apple AirTag in the center of the broad head. I’ve been testing it out and the AirTag survives when I shoot into a sandbox. I’m surprised no one has ever thought of this.
Very cool! I’ve seen this done with bluetooth in nocks, but know many states don’t allow it as it is “aiding in the harvest” of an animal.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors, not to mention you need cell service to use an apple AirTag. I hunt in an area where I have good cell service. I lost a deer last year which gave me the idea. My invention is much cheaper than those Bluetooth trackers. Though you need cell service.
Thanks,great info.
Hey man! Just got a hoytt axius it goes to "30 draw and I measeired my arms 77 and a half divided by 2.5 is 31. Payed a lot for it has lots of upgrades but now I'm sick is there anyway I can shoot with it being "30 or anyway to get it to be longer?
Hey man, the wingspan divided by 2.5 rule is a good way to get close, but is rarely 100% accurate. I would reference this video to see if the draw is in fact short for you. If it is, you can still shoot it, but there really is no replacement for having the correct draw length.
How can you tell if both your bow limbs have a equal draw weight sir?
Hey guys!!! If I’m have a jock low tear with bear shaft, should I move the nocking point up or should I adjust the top cam to make it cycle faster than the bottom?!? Which do you recommend or something else?! Thanks guys!!!!
@@Calebott01 if your cams are in sync, adjust your rest down very slightly. If you’re shooting bareshafts through paper, ensure you get the same tear on all of your arrows.
@ ok thank you for your response!!!
lower the pound off pull the more important it is to use a heavier arrow, going lighter will significantly reduce penetration. your limited so you dont have the option iff you cant increase draw weight (under 60lb)
Broadheads hitting 3 inches high at every yardage, new sight tape? Or rest adjustment?
1. Are your field points also hitting 3” high at every distance? If so, adjust your sight up slightly until both are impacting perfectly.
2. If they field points are hitting perfect every time but your broadheads are always 3” high , lower your rest slightly, then adjust your sight lower so field points are on, and test again. Repeat until they impact together, although it should not take much.
Great stuff…and spot on about arrow weight!
Hi I have a question I have a bear cruzer rth sand I got it in 2017 what spine arrow should I use I feel my draw length is wrong I 6 1 hight I had it done at Cabela's I feel they mess up my measurement
For draw length, hold your arms put and measure from tip to tip of your middle fingers and then divide by 2.5. That will get you within a half inch and then you can fine tune from there. Arrow Spine will matter on your arrow length and poundage your shooting.
9:15 is there a reason for letting the bow drop like that
@@Spazzzm it’s just follow through from a properly executed surprise release. Think of the follow through similar to how someone would should a basketball or throw a ball. The arrow is gone before the archer has time to react.
@BowOnlyOutdoors oh okay thanks
Made my eyes widen when u said the issue isn't the weight of your arrow but the poundage of your bow. I see so much saying you need to shoot a 600gr arrow and I'm using about a 400gr arrow at 28 inches with a 70lb compound and haven't had a single pass thru issue yet so maybe I've just been lucky so far but I'm going to be using the swhacker #207 for the first time this season and will see if that passes thru just as good as my fixed blades did last season with my current setup. Anyone else have arrows and draw weight similar to mine that uses swhacker mechanicals, and are they worth using on a lighter set up such as mine?
I shot a 405gr total arrow weight with original swhacker with 28" draw at about 70lbs for years never had any issues, but I shoot 30 yards and in.
So what makes my brodheads fly right by 6 inches? Both fixed and mechanical do this. Field points all travel the same ....
@@RonFleener
Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
this video explains this better than I can in text, but I’ll try to touch on the high level things here.
1. Arrow could be reacting way too weak. (Too much point weight, too long, too weak of shaft, etc) lower bow poundage by at least 5lbs to see if it gets better to prove if this is the issue or not, then adjust your arrow accordingly to match the bow weight you want to shoot if so.
2. You’re torquing your bow grip. (Most common cause of the issue) but note that if they are all consistently flying to the right, you can fix it, as long as you stay consistent with how you’re gripping your bow.
3. Your arrow rest is too far to the left and needs to be moved to the right. (Depending on your bow, don’t go too far out of center shot)
4. Your cams are shimmed too far to the right, and need to be moved to the left. (Depending on what bow you have) if you have yokes, you need to tighten the top left yoke and lengthen the top right yoke.
It is one, or all of these issues, but this video will help you gain a better understanding to fix it. Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thanks. Headed over to check it out now.
It’s too bad there are so many archery retailers that don’t follow these vital steps in achieving optimal accuracy for their customers.
Mine doesn’t believe in paper tuning.
How does a cam get out of time or sync?
@@jacobbickett8392 out of time = cables the wrong length, twisted too much, not twisted enough.
Out of sync = serving separation on the cables, cable stretch, moving nocking point.
Great vid!! You did give all the fairy arrow people ptsd.. I'm with you on arrow weight. Keep up the wisdom
Not trying to upset anyone that does prefer to shoot an overly heavy arrow, just trying to steer folks down the right path.
I'll trust Dr. Ed over a kid any day of the week.
@@alexwest4253absolutely lol I shoot adult arrows I have a 32" draw so I shoot 632gr arrow still at 285fps so I have the best of both worlds speed and weight shooing 75lbs bow sorry to the vertically challenged who can't owell keep shooting kids arrows
Sir heavy arrows with high foc is to gain momentum not ke.
Broadhead tuning is the most difficult.I have never succeeded doing that.
This video will help!
Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
ruclips.net/video/uyfaBaF1yh4/видео.html
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thank very much! It's so kind of you. I watched this video many times. In fact, I have watched all of your videos. I think these are the best videos about compound bow archery. The reason why I always failed to complete broadhead tuning is perhaps that the bottom cam is leaning to the right. I have not yet prepared a bow press, so it's difficult to adjust the cams temporarily.
Face pressure at full draw is an extreme factor in arrow flight. When your “over anchored” and your string makes too much face contact your string is not releasing without immediate divination. There’s no adjustments that I’ve ever heard of in your arrow selection or bow setup, other than a more accurate draw length, for this factor.
Bowtech best bows
I have a reign 7 and I've pleased with it for sure.
Im from the UK, we are not allowed to go hunting here. I have a sanlida dragon X9 compound bow (I'm new to acherey and will get better bow brand in the future). Do I have to do the cam sync.. All I'm going to do is 3d shooting and target shooting. So what sort of tuning should I do to my compound bow for normal shooting (target shooting and 3d)
This video is specific to bowhunters who need their arrows flying straight so their broadheads fly more accurately.
For a target bow, different tuning techniques will apply and I will plan to make a video on this in the future. Ultimately, it doesn’t matter how the arrow comes out of the bow as long as it’s the same every time. The tuning methods for target archers will be based more around bow fit and forgiveness that will allow you to shoot better. Cam sync is generally very close to perfect for target archers, but can be slightly off to achieve the best results.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you for responding, really appreciate you man, your channel is very beneficial as well as dudley you two are actually amazing teachers learned a lot in a month
Im looking for Archery, but sorry I picked the wrong channel
This video is specially tuning for bowhunters as the title states. There would be different tuning tips for archers over bowhunters for the most forgiveness as both want forgiveness, but the process with broadheads isn’t necessarily the same as with field points. Thanks for the video idea 👍🏻
learn the fundamentals of shooting your bow and find what works for you. The so-called proper way may or may not be what works for you if you learn to shoot in a box you will only get as good as the box lets you
That’s the truth! Archery is all about consistency.
cams dont sinc they way you think, it must be checked drawing the bow yourself, adjusting to your draw with the way your hand pushes the bow. 99% off people doing it on a draw board will not have a sinc bow. its an overemphised thing, not many set it correctly and still shoot well
What you stated is not always true when determining cam sync.
Additionally, you can shoot a bow out of sync well, but you will not be able to shoot it out of sync well with broadheads which is why it’s such an important factor and why it’s discussed as one of the top bow tuning tips for bowhunters.
Supported at 28", not 29", and using a 1.94-lbs weight on the middle.
Correct, a 29” arrow, supported by two points at 28”, with a 880 gram weight in the middle (which is 1.94lbs)
2:13 for reference
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@BowOnlyOutdoors The arrow doesn't need to be cut to 29" before measuring spine, as long as it's supporting at 28" apart. A full length shaft will still bend the same amount between the two points of support.
He's just showing his arrow for example relax bud!!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors LOL so will a 32" arrow supported at 28" flex differently?
But before you do any of these verify that your bow is in spec...
Yep!
I invented and patented a compound bow that does not require a cable guard. An arrow is nocked the same way an arrow is nocked is nocked on any other compound bow. View RUclips video "COMPOUND BOW NO CABLE GUARD".
if you had single came you dont need to worry about SYNC and timimg lol
You don’t need to worry about sync with a single cam, but cam timing is critical.
So mean you tell me pay all that damn money for a fucking bow to come from the factory right and it’s not timed or synchronize right? does a car come from the factory with the engine off timing or cam off timing? Why pay over $1000 for a bow if it’s not gonna come from the factory, right?
@@CrutonDiablo some things cannot be set from the factory. Details like where you put your nocking point and what draw length mods you have will have an effect on your cam sync making it near impossible to get it perfect right from the factory for every person that may shoot the bow. Generally the timing is perfect from the factory and the sync is typically very close, but almost always needs some slight adjustment regardless of manufacturer.
There's no bow tech that has ever called it cam sync.
And that’s the issue. We have cam timing which is when they’re at rest, and then we have cam sync. How the cams are positioned at full draw in relation to each other.
The ones that know do 🤷🏼♂️
@@BowOnlyOutdoorstell John Dudley that
Lol john dudley only believes the bow is a kenitic tool and everything can be fixed with the arrow I don't listen to anything he says and yes most real bow shops and techs know cam out of sync/time is a recipe for issues all day
I’ve watched hundreds of bow tuning videos. They always check the TIMING at full draw
🤦
great video! but he needs to relax a bit.. looks like a robot