My husband and I have been binging all day on “Kickass” refrigerator videos…We’ve watched your company videos, as well as individual views. We’re ready to buy, but the one thing I wish you had was rollers to move the unit….we’re getting an enclosed cargo with ramp. I’m trying to make everything portable as possible because we are retired, 70 years old. Other than that, we’re jazzed about your product and excited to get it. Peace and Blessings….PS: You Australians rock with your camping gear!
I love this. You guys definitely know how to sell products, I got no use for this product but I would probably get the torch, because it got party mode.
😂😂😂😂 Wasn’t sure if I accidentally flicked over to a comedy channel, but this was absolute gold. Loved it and learnt heaps from it. Well done boys, well done 👍
How do you physically connect the ignition wire? Does it need to be soldered? I have seen some other companies supply a connector with a fuse holder do you have something like that? It sounds like the easiest solution.
Why do you guys give an 80A fuse for the DCDC? Your manual even says the input output fuse rating is 50A and page 5 states you recommend a 50-75A fuse.
I've set this up as per your videos but the charger is getting power with ignition off. I've quadruple checked the power to the fuse I've used. It got late, so I'm going to try some other fuse spots tomorrow in case the one I've chosen is constant battery power. Anything else that it could be though??? Cheers Matt
Hi guys. Great video. I have your original battery box with dcdc and it has the lithium profile. I'm now running a 100ah lithium battery and have also put in a smartshunt to help monitor real time current draw etc. In this video you mention if the dcdc cuts out it is likely due to the ignition wiring. My 4wd is a 2012 mitsubishi challenger PB model and they don't have a smart alternator.....but I'm having the problems of the dcdc charger cut out after only 5-10 mins then it cycles and turns back on. Should I have the ignition/on wire installed?? Some advice on this would be great.
Hey that's not "Craig" that's Brad Pitt. Gees you got the A list celebrities now promoting your wares. Oh and yes I really like the triple Anderson plug. Wish I had one of those when I installed the DCDC charger and all the cabling .
It’s called an IGNITION wire, which is the correct terminology, because it uses a low voltage pulse provided or generated by the car’s ignition system to turn on, say a Motorola two-way radio through the radio’s rear ignition pin, or in your case, to reset or restart a sleeping lithium battery, or moreover, to activate or turn on the new generation DC-DC chargers!
Yep. Run your dcdc charger solar cables into a spare Anderson port On your battery box, and plug your solar into that and run it unregulated. If you don't have a solar specific Anderson plug, use an mppt so it can regulate the solar going in 👍
Thanks for the vid, quite informative and light. Q. I'm intending to install a lithium start battery and need the cutoff voltage to be much higher than the usual setpoint of around 12.6 volts or the lithium will be drawn down with the dcdc. Was intending to use an ignition switched relay but with your ignition switched blue wire does it totally override the voltage setpoint or just change them? If totally overridden i can avoid the relay. Cheers.
G'day paul,the ignition wire is used to cut in at earlier voltage as most smart alternators struggle to get up to 13.2v & ignition wire will allow 12.2v you could also try our battery guard & that may also suit as well www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/smart-battery-guard/KASMARTBG thanks for watching Cheers Craig
Looks good, and sorry for a noob question - but why would you need an ignition wire at the rear of the vehicle? Wouldn't the source likely be at the front? I assume given the length on this kit its purpose is for a rear mounted battery (not under bonnet)
From years of experience we recommend that you never mount an auxiliary battery under your bonnet. Excess heat can significantly shorten the life of your AGM battery. This system is designed so that you can easily run an ignition connection which is loomed with the standard auto electrical wire to the rear of your vehicle.
Cool product Couple of things Don’t prick through wiring insulation. Quickest way to wreck a wiring harness. Correct way is to back probe the connector Secondly. Using a basic test light on modern systems can cause expensive ECM repairs if you don’t know what you’re doing Look for a quality LED test lamp or multi meter
This was literally my only complaint about the whole video, probing insulated wires and non computer safe test lights. As a plant mech corrosion in wiring can be a huge issue, especially with the way everything is going with ECU control, canbus etc. Im sure this would be even more common in modern vehicles
Better use Neutrik Speakon (NL4) - it's widely recognized standard for speaker connections in entertainment industry and no one will mix it with 12 or 24 volts DC by mistake. Use Neutrik for speaker connection and Anderson for amp power.
So with the Ignition wire connected what happens when your alternator stops working will it drain you cranking battery completely dead or does DCDC charger have a low-voltage cut-off switch knowing the ignition wire is live
The DC/DC Charger has a built in isolator. So it will automatically isolate when the voltage gets low. The DCDC still all function as normal without the ignition wire connected. But it won't be as responsive, there will be things like longer delays for the charged cycle to start and stop.
Ok i'll pull you up on your description which makes everything confusing, Your ignition has off - acc - ign - start thats why its called the ignition wire
Yes it’s a confusing subject as many vehicles have different subtleties that’s why we have a new video which you can see here: ruclips.net/video/2_skqBjOiHY/видео.html
I think you should include a spare triple anderson in the wiring kit for the people that arent using the kickass dcdc charger. I made that mistake and assumed it came with a spare one like your normal wiring kits. They dont seem to be available seperately anywhere, even on your web page.
@@KickAssProducts you should probably send one free of charge to everyone who purchased the premium wiring kit. Otherwise its a useless kit. Cant plug it in to anything.
@@richardmalone3172 Google fuse taps. They are like a double adapter for a fuse spot in your fuse box. You take out the original fuse and plug in the tap in its place. You install the original fuse and a new fuse in the tap. The other end of the tap connects to your ignition wire which goes to the triple anderson plug that plugs into the charger.
Hi guys, do you sell the triple plugs separately? Just got the charger and wiring kit on pre order but it won't be long enough, I need a 1.5m extension, now they're all 2 plug extensions so the "on wire" won't reach. If you sell the plugs then I can make my own 3 plug extension and happy days
I have bought your 200w Solar panels that come with 20amp MPPT regular and accessories. I read the manual but how to I connnect MPPT up to the back of solar panel and then to my Kixkass 120 AGM battery. I am not running a DCDC charger all my stuff is in the back tub of my dual cab. The videos shop I connect the black anderson plug then the other plug to my battery box but what about this MPPT regulator. Sorry new to this just trying to learn Cheers Errol
How ya Doing Guy,s im interested in purchasing a KickAss dc to dc as in video, But im not sure my vehicle is 24v Duel Battery running car Only. And i wish to run 12v Solar setup as well. Does your unit handle 24v input or do i try hookup to 12v on a single battery Out of the two .. im sorta Lost as the alternator is 24v. ..perhaps a 24V TO 12V Step-down? Heavy Duty that is.
G'day there radio active,yes our dcdc charger can have 24v input & 12v out put for aux battery' thanks for watching here is a link to dcdc to look at www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/kickass-40a-dcdc-charger-8m-heavy-duty-dcdc-wiring/KADCDC40A-AND-WK65 Cheers craig
What would take this to the next level would a switch allowing you to recharge a starter battery off the auxiliary by choice, and SECONDLY what would be !!!truly amazing!!! would be allowing the solar MPPT being able to charge either of the batteries, with a switch, not just the auxiliary
G'day there,there is know wrong or write way as it is all pending your set up,remember that if your doing some serious 4x4 driving you may want to run cables internaly to protect from rocks & sticks though Cheers Craig
Hi Luis, we currently have 3 pin Anderson style connectors on the way to the U.S. Unfortunately it is difficult to give you an ETA as global shipping has been a little bit un-reliable in recent times.
Hey @Australian Direct Can you do a video with shore power and an automatic transfer switch and how this would get wired to your DC to DC charger so that it would shut off so that it does not continue to run with an inverter powering it.
Hi Michael, I am assuming by shore power you are talking about Marine application. Unfortunately we are not marine experts and wouldn't really want to advise as such. Sorry.
@@KickAssProducts it's just called that... It means plugging in at a camp ground or anywhere for that matter. And the transition from "shore" utility power back to 12volt and an inverter using small automatic transfer switch which like VSR senses when you are plugged in and switches to "shore" utility power. Charging you DC charger and batteries. Basically like camper van. This is definitely more opportunities for kick ass if you support this set up.
Yes, it still charges Lithium Lifepo4 but now the DC-DC Charger has Lithium BMS sleep mode recovery feature. The DCDC will now detect when a lithium battery goes into sleep mode and will trickle charge the battery until it reaches the cut-in voltage.
G'day there,these kits have arived if your still interested,sorry about the late reply,just click on the link & thanks for watching www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/kickass-heavy-duty-8.0m-plug-amp-play-dcdc-wiring/KAHDDBWKPPPARENT Cheers Craig
G'day Shano,that was the original intension to help overcome the smart charging systems on newer cars,but it still does not mean it can't be used on older/non smart systems as the cut in voltage is then at 12.2v instead of 13.2v
G'day Gurrs,no the ignition wire does not need to be earthed,it needs 12v power only why the engine is running & no power when engine is turned off thanks for watching Cheers Craig
These guys don't seem to answer any questions. I have a Kickass charger and am wanting the 3 way anderson to add to it however they won't give me an answer. Just want to know if the plug by itself is available
Hi Kevin. I apologize for no one answering your questions. We are currently waiting for our order of the triple anderson plugs, they will be available to purchase separately of our website asap.
My vehicle doesn't have "Accessory". It's ignition or engine running**. My sparky and I having a hellava time trying to get it to work. I keep having to go back to my Projecta 3-stage which doesn't have de-sulphation mode. **2008 V10 Touareg.
The one you're looking for is the "engine running" position. Put simply, you want a fuse or power source that only has power when the engine is running - and DOESN'T have power when the key is in ANY OTHER position. The distinction between that and ignition/accessory is important because people (myself included) will often leave the key switched to accesssory/ignition, in order to play music at camp with the engine off. If the DCDC has power to the blue wire in this situation it'll start charging with the engine off - which we don't want, as the engine isn't doing any charging. Does that make sense?
@@jakegalczynski9898 Thanks. At the moment, the unit will flash Alternator with engine off, key out but a door open. The Treggy has two batteries, one starter and one for accessories (auto rear door, lights, bells and whistles etc). The DC-DC might be triggered by the accy battery (which juices when a door opens) - might have to ensure that the DC-DC is connected to the starter battery. The house battery is a 100Ah Lithium from Safiery. Talking out aloud, I think I know the root cause now.
@@stuartkcalvinTalk about complicated haha; my understanding of these chargers is that the Alternator light basically acts as an indicator of status as well. The interval between flashes lets you know the voltage of the starter battery/alternator input - if it's solid its above cut-in threshold and ready to start charging, and if its flashing it's below cut-in, and if it's flashing long intervals it's wayyy below. Either way I'd definitely be connecting the DC-DC feed straight to the starter battery, as that's going to be the most direct route to the Alternator when the engine is running. Have you connected an ignition wire to the DCDC at all?
@@jakegalczynski9898 Thanks. If the engine's off, I shouldn't expect a flashing alt light - but I get one. It flashes slowly but I brought the Lithium up from 11.8 to 13.4. It won't go solid and I can't move it off bulk after three hours driving. No ignition wire connected - it's bundled up under the charger - it's black with a ring connector ... to the neg on the starter?
Just wanna check a few things... You mentioned that the alternator light is flashing slowly when the vehicle isn't running - that's normal, it simply says that the voltage at the STARTER battery isn't high enough to start charging, but is in fact connected correctly. As for the lithium being at 11.8 (the aux I assume, unless you have a lithium starter battery too??) and then you brought it up... I gather you brought it up with another external charger or something? Remember that the DCDC - in fact any DCDC - doesn't care what the Aux battery is doing, it wants to see the starter battery voltage increase - ie when the car is started and the alternator on the engine starts providing charge. If you increase the voltage of the aux battery, by solar or another charger the DCDC won't kick in. The voltage must increase on the engine side indicating that the engine had started and is now ready to charge. And ignition wire on the Kickass DCDC according to the manual is the Blue wire with Ignition on its label. The black wire in a bundle is an optional battery temperature sensor - it can be cut off, but once cut cannot be reconnected. As your vehicle is a newer one - 2008 - I'd be connecting the ignition wire (blue) to a source of power that ONLY comes on when the engine is running, like in my first comment, and see how you go with that. It's pretty common with DCDCs and newer vehicles because of the newer style alternators. I hope this makes sense
Different make, models of vehicles have different fuse boxes. Unfortunately it is not viable for us to carry these items in stock as they can be purchased very cheaply at Repco etc. Sorry.
i have a cigarette accessory socket in back of car. this is an only ignition on plug. in other words only powered when engine running. I plug my battery box dcdc ig on wire into this via a cig male plug that doesn't have the earth wire on it. wiring was already there. so no need to run another wire. a lot of cars have a plug like this in rear.
Ya say ignition wire but I know of accessories and constant which is it constant usually red or accessories usually yellow we wanna tap into just to be sure Iv done various installs before and I already know but from the horse's mouth lol
Are these dc-dc chargers supposed to get hot? I went for a 25mins drive today and when I got home my dc-dc charger was boiling hot almost burnt my arm haha
Why not just use an Ignition Sense Module so you don't need to run the third wire? Multiple Australian Companies make them and are cheap. they work with anyone's DCDC Chargers.
Sure that is an option, however Ignition sense modules generally run on motion detection. We are simply offering a different solution to directly connect a charger where you don't need to run a third wire separately because the ignition wire is included in the loom.
G'day mate,it's crazy the price of some tools,google snap on side cutters & it will blow you away.nothing wrong with the sidchromes in my book thanks for watching Cheers Craig
It’s not an ON wire it is the IGNITION wire, most cars have OFF, ACC, IGNITION, START. Stop confusing people, the original terminology is correct! Also the Redarc BCDC1250D post late 2019 early 2020 will also charge a lithium from dead flat, I know as I have tested it with my 1250D, so your ‘competitors’ are already onto it and have for a while now.
We are talking about the triple Anderson and the automotive cable with the ignition sense wire built in. Please drop a link to a competitor doing that now! Love to see it! Also what we are talking about is our DCDC can bring a lithium that is in low voltage protection mode (please elaborate on your definition of a dead flat lithium) back to operation without any user intervention but this video does not get into that topic although soon will be a video that will.
Such a totally condescending attitude I’m this video. Instead of worrying about your competitors how about you do a little bit of research on your own product 😂, it’s not the on wire that’s for the starter motor, it’s actually the ignition wire as stated “I” which is when the ignition is on, and the engine is running. Accessories is what powers your radio which also stays on when you click one more time to Ignition, any more clicks, the engine turns over via the starter motor so do not wire it to the ON wire.
G'day again mate,yes the ignition wire is there to get a on & off signal to turn the dcdc on at lower voltages to help overcome those tricky new smart charging systems,i like the idea of smart charging systems & any way to save fuel from the alternator not working overtime is great way to get better economy & means more road trips & less stops at the servo i personally like the ignition wire connected to a power source that is only on when the engine is running & my favourite is tapping into the fuel pump fuse as the pump is only on when the engine is running
I love this video. No script, no flashy bs, just are information. Cheeky not so subtle plug for the torch was making me chuckle a little.
Glad you enjoyed it!
My husband and I have been binging all day on “Kickass” refrigerator videos…We’ve watched your company videos, as well as individual views. We’re ready to buy, but the one thing I wish you had was rollers to move the unit….we’re getting an enclosed cargo with ramp. I’m trying to make everything portable as possible because we are retired, 70 years old. Other than that, we’re jazzed about your product and excited to get it. Peace and Blessings….PS: You Australians rock with your camping gear!
G'day There,thanks for those wonderful comments we really appreciate it
thanks for watching the video
Cheers Craig
I love this. You guys definitely know how to sell products, I got no use for this product but I would probably get the torch, because it got party mode.
Off for key out, Auxiliary for accessories (Radio, Fag Lighter) and start.
Great video lads.
Thanks mate.
I love this 🤣
You guys made my day!
Glad to hear it Matthew 😃
Great clip Clayton love your gear my kickass super thin solar panels awesome
😂😂😂😂
Wasn’t sure if I accidentally flicked over to a comedy channel, but this was absolute gold.
Loved it and learnt heaps from it.
Well done boys, well done 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Important presentation with a comedian attitude
Thanks for watching,
Cheers Craig
I love this presentation 🤗 I'm gonna start looking at your products 👍🏼
I tend to tie the ignition wire to the input of the dc-dc charger, then switch the anderson plug off ignition.
I hope I got the new one coming @Australian Direct good to see you make vids as I never use your gear yet and brought a good package
How do you physically connect the ignition wire? Does it need to be soldered? I have seen some other companies supply a connector with a fuse holder do you have something like that? It sounds like the easiest solution.
im waiting for your battery box with the dcdc killa product
Why do you guys give an 80A fuse for the DCDC? Your manual even says the input output fuse rating is 50A and page 5 states you recommend a 50-75A fuse.
I've set this up as per your videos but the charger is getting power with ignition off. I've quadruple checked the power to the fuse I've used. It got late, so I'm going to try some other fuse spots tomorrow in case the one I've chosen is constant battery power. Anything else that it could be though??? Cheers Matt
When are you guys getting Lifepo4 batteries in...please say you are going to start selling them...👍...
What if just buy this new wiring kit and just use old kickass dc-dc charger? Will it work?
Hi guys. Great video. I have your original battery box with dcdc and it has the lithium profile. I'm now running a 100ah lithium battery and have also put in a smartshunt to help monitor real time current draw etc.
In this video you mention if the dcdc cuts out it is likely due to the ignition wiring. My 4wd is a 2012 mitsubishi challenger PB model and they don't have a smart alternator.....but I'm having the problems of the dcdc charger cut out after only 5-10 mins then it cycles and turns back on. Should I have the ignition/on wire installed??
Some advice on this would be great.
Hey that's not "Craig" that's Brad Pitt. Gees you got the A list celebrities now promoting your wares. Oh and yes I really like the triple Anderson plug. Wish I had one of those when I installed the DCDC charger and all the cabling .
Certainly do have quite a famous team here at KICK ASS! 😝
It’s called an IGNITION wire, which is the correct terminology, because it uses a low voltage pulse provided or generated by the car’s ignition system to turn on, say a Motorola two-way radio through the radio’s rear ignition pin, or in your case, to reset or restart a sleeping lithium battery, or moreover, to activate or turn on the new generation DC-DC chargers!
Well said mate
thanks for watchin cheers Craig
Loved the vid👍
Will my aux battery still charge from the solar when the "Ignition" is off?
Really good question buddy!
Yes mate, sure will!
Excellent! Thanks.
Yep. Run your dcdc charger solar cables into a spare Anderson port On your battery box, and plug your solar into that and run it unregulated. If you don't have a solar specific Anderson plug, use an mppt so it can regulate the solar going in 👍
great video. but what is up with the camera sway
Hmmm, why did I not know about that torch, now I want one lol. Maybe in the next order if they are still available
G'day thanks for watching & torch still available
Cheers craig
Thanks for the vid, quite informative and light.
Q. I'm intending to install a lithium start battery and need the cutoff voltage to be much higher than the usual setpoint of around 12.6 volts or the lithium will be drawn down with the dcdc.
Was intending to use an ignition switched relay but with your ignition switched blue wire does it totally override the voltage setpoint or just change them?
If totally overridden i can avoid the relay.
Cheers.
G'day paul,the ignition wire is used to cut in at earlier voltage as most smart alternators struggle to get up to 13.2v & ignition wire will allow 12.2v
you could also try our battery guard & that may also suit as well
www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/smart-battery-guard/KASMARTBG
thanks for watching
Cheers Craig
Great informative vid. Stop moving the camera side to side so much. A+ for content thought. Thanks
‘
Looks good, and sorry for a noob question - but why would you need an ignition wire at the rear of the vehicle? Wouldn't the source likely be at the front? I assume given the length on this kit its purpose is for a rear mounted battery (not under bonnet)
From years of experience we recommend that you never mount an auxiliary battery under your bonnet. Excess heat can significantly shorten the life of your AGM battery. This system is designed so that you can easily run an ignition connection which is loomed with the standard auto electrical wire to the rear of your vehicle.
Where do I buy the triple anderson plug?
Cool product
Couple of things
Don’t prick through wiring insulation. Quickest way to wreck a wiring harness. Correct way is to back probe the connector
Secondly. Using a basic test light on modern systems can cause expensive ECM repairs if you don’t know what you’re doing
Look for a quality LED test lamp or multi meter
Thanks for the info.
This was literally my only complaint about the whole video, probing insulated wires and non computer safe test lights. As a plant mech corrosion in wiring can be a huge issue, especially with the way everything is going with ECU control, canbus etc. Im sure this would be even more common in modern vehicles
Do you sell the plugs separate? Been thinking about adding a subwoofer & amp and this would make the wiring easier as I dont want it in all the time.
Better use Neutrik Speakon (NL4) - it's widely recognized standard for speaker connections in entertainment industry and no one will mix it with 12 or 24 volts DC by mistake. Use Neutrik for speaker connection and Anderson for amp power.
So with the Ignition wire connected what happens when your alternator stops working will it drain you cranking battery completely dead or does DCDC charger have a low-voltage cut-off switch knowing the ignition wire is live
The DC/DC Charger has a built in isolator. So it will automatically isolate when the voltage gets low.
The DCDC still all function as normal without the ignition wire connected. But it won't be as responsive, there will be things like longer delays for the charged cycle to start and stop.
can this anderson plug be brought from your page?
I am just wondering what Amp fuse you use for ignition wire using add circuit fuse holder?
The fuse tap will just have to match what the rating is in the fuse box.
Ok i'll pull you up on your description which makes everything confusing, Your ignition has off - acc - ign - start thats why its called the ignition wire
Yes it’s a confusing subject as many vehicles have different subtleties that’s why we have a new video which you can see here: ruclips.net/video/2_skqBjOiHY/видео.html
Why is heavy thick cable needed if the thin blue wire triggers the dc charger
You guys are great! Great vid! Where do I buy KickAss in the States? Nevermind read "Show More" Thanks!
kickassproducts.com/
I think you should include a spare triple anderson in the wiring kit for the people that arent using the kickass dcdc charger. I made that mistake and assumed it came with a spare one like your normal wiring kits. They dont seem to be available seperately anywhere, even on your web page.
Hi Dave, we are currently waiting for a supply of the triple anderson plugs. They will be be sold separately on our website asap.
Sorry for the delay.
@@KickAssProducts you should probably send one free of charge to everyone who purchased the premium wiring kit. Otherwise its a useless kit. Cant plug it in to anything.
yes they are on ebay, search, in 3 pin anderson plug. they are $8 plus $9 postage.
Can we use boot 12v cigarette lighter socket plus wire as an ignition wire?
Unfortunately not. A cig socket is only 10 amp and you require the full 25 amps to run this unit.
what type of cable is the ignition(on) cable if i were to try and find just that cable online?
Hi Luis. It is just a 4mm single core insulated wire.
What about Toyota 70 series with the v8? Do they have or need an ignition wire?
Hi, thanks for that. Question. I find a spare spot in the fuse box that has power when the engine is running. What size fuse for the ignition wire?
Fuse taps generally not rated. If you are using a tap with an inline fuse simply use the same size fuse as the socket you are plugging into.
@@KickAssProducts sorry, I have no idea what you are saying. Taps?
@@richardmalone3172 Google fuse taps. They are like a double adapter for a fuse spot in your fuse box. You take out the original fuse and plug in the tap in its place. You install the original fuse and a new fuse in the tap. The other end of the tap connects to your ignition wire which goes to the triple anderson plug that plugs into the charger.
@@mattmullens3215 thankyou.
Hi guys, do you sell the triple plugs separately? Just got the charger and wiring kit on pre order but it won't be long enough, I need a 1.5m extension, now they're all 2 plug extensions so the "on wire" won't reach. If you sell the plugs then I can make my own 3 plug extension and happy days
Unfortunately we do not have the triple plugs by themselves in stock yet.
They are on there way but we do not have an ETA yet. sorry.
when mum says you have to involve your brother in the video... long haired bloke had no idea
Any plans for a flush mount option?
the andersons plugs can be mounted flush if you require.
Do you guys supplier 40 amp DC - DC to your battery box as well ?
G'day David,no only sell them individually mate - possibly see them on our lithium box's sooner than later
Neat idea. 👍
Kick arse, 🇦🇺
not ass.🇺🇲
Couldn't resist.🙄
Well I've used redarc bcdc here in scotland on my 95 for years , done all wiring myself, I see your point though, send me one to scotland to review
I have bought your 200w Solar panels that come with 20amp MPPT regular and accessories. I read the manual but how to I connnect MPPT up to the back of solar panel and then to my Kixkass 120 AGM battery. I am not running a DCDC charger all my stuff is in the back tub of my dual cab. The videos shop I connect the black anderson plug then the other plug to my battery box but what about this MPPT regulator. Sorry new to this just trying to learn
Cheers Errol
Hey Errol,I have requested one of our customer service team get in contact with you.
How ya Doing Guy,s im interested in purchasing a KickAss dc to dc as in video, But im not sure my vehicle is 24v Duel Battery running car Only. And i wish to run 12v Solar setup as well. Does your unit handle 24v input or do i try hookup to 12v on a single battery Out of the two .. im sorta Lost as the alternator is 24v. ..perhaps a 24V TO 12V Step-down? Heavy Duty that is.
G'day there radio active,yes our dcdc charger can have 24v input & 12v out put for aux battery'
thanks for watching
here is a link to dcdc to look at
www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/kickass-40a-dcdc-charger-8m-heavy-duty-dcdc-wiring/KADCDC40A-AND-WK65
Cheers craig
Warwick Capper looks well.
hahah G'day dingo,thanks for the funny comments & thanks for watching the video
Cheers
Craig
what 24v system in big truck
And the easiest way to connect the "ignition" wire to the fusebox is to use a piggyback fuse tap.
absolutely mate,i reckon it's the easiest way thanks for watching & the comments
Cheers Craig
What would take this to the next level would a switch allowing you to recharge a starter battery off the auxiliary by choice, and SECONDLY what would be !!!truly amazing!!! would be allowing the solar MPPT being able to charge either of the batteries, with a switch, not just the auxiliary
We will look into it.
Can you connect a 50 amp 2 pole into the 3 pole connector
G'day Brad,you certainty can,the 3 pin anderson will accept a normal 2 anderson plug
Thanks for watching
Cheers
Craig
I am new to all this...how do we attach the wires under our car?
G'day there,there is know wrong or write way as it is all pending your set up,remember that if your doing some serious 4x4 driving you may want to run cables internaly to protect from rocks & sticks though
Cheers Craig
I need this three pin Anderson plug asap in the states. But it’s sold out :/ please help
Hi Luis, we currently have 3 pin Anderson style connectors on the way to the U.S. Unfortunately it is difficult to give you an ETA as global shipping has been a little bit un-reliable in recent times.
Is the 20' wire harness even long enough to wire up a Ford F-150 with the battery box in the bed of the truck?
Not to sure sorry, We don't get many F-150's in Australia. It is enough to wire the average Aussie ute.
I hope so. That’s what I bought it for.
too bad you didn't sell or ship to U.S. cause this is awesome stuff
Hi legend! You can purchase from our USA Site here: kickassproducts.com/
Hey @Australian Direct Can you do a video with shore power and an automatic transfer switch and how this would get wired to your DC to DC charger so that it would shut off so that it does not continue to run with an inverter powering it.
Hi Michael, I am assuming by shore power you are talking about Marine application. Unfortunately we are not marine experts and wouldn't really want to advise as such. Sorry.
@@KickAssProducts it's just called that... It means plugging in at a camp ground or anywhere for that matter. And the transition from "shore" utility power back to 12volt and an inverter using small automatic transfer switch which like VSR senses when you are plugged in and switches to "shore" utility power. Charging you DC charger and batteries. Basically like camper van. This is definitely more opportunities for kick ass if you support this set up.
The old one charges lithium lifepo4 also. does it not?
Sales gimmick !!!
Yes, it still charges Lithium Lifepo4 but now the DC-DC Charger has Lithium BMS sleep mode recovery feature. The DCDC will now detect when a lithium battery goes into sleep mode and will trickle charge the battery until it reaches the cut-in voltage.
Is there a 6 B&C kit available?
G'day there,these kits have arived if your still interested,sorry about the late reply,just click on the link & thanks for watching
www.kickassproducts.com.au/buy/kickass-heavy-duty-8.0m-plug-amp-play-dcdc-wiring/KAHDDBWKPPPARENT
Cheers Craig
Is it the same dcdc charger with a new kind of Anderson plug? Looks the same
You got a point
Sales gimmick !!!
Wouldn’t this only be needed for cars with smart alternators?
G'day Shano,that was the original intension to help overcome the smart charging systems on newer cars,but it still does not mean it can't be used on older/non smart systems as the cut in voltage is then at 12.2v instead of 13.2v
Is the ignition (engine on) wire earthed?
G'day Gurrs,no the ignition wire does not need to be earthed,it needs 12v power only why the engine is running & no power when engine is turned off
thanks for watching
Cheers Craig
Cheers Craig, thanks for the info 👍👍
These guys don't seem to answer any questions. I have a Kickass charger and am wanting the 3 way anderson to add to it however they won't give me an answer. Just want to know if the plug by itself is available
Hi Kevin. I apologize for no one answering your questions.
We are currently waiting for our order of the triple anderson plugs, they will be available to purchase separately of our website asap.
My vehicle doesn't have "Accessory". It's ignition or engine running**. My sparky and I having a hellava time trying to get it to work. I keep having to go back to my Projecta 3-stage which doesn't have de-sulphation mode.
**2008 V10 Touareg.
The one you're looking for is the "engine running" position. Put simply, you want a fuse or power source that only has power when the engine is running - and DOESN'T have power when the key is in ANY OTHER position. The distinction between that and ignition/accessory is important because people (myself included) will often leave the key switched to accesssory/ignition, in order to play music at camp with the engine off. If the DCDC has power to the blue wire in this situation it'll start charging with the engine off - which we don't want, as the engine isn't doing any charging. Does that make sense?
@@jakegalczynski9898 Thanks. At the moment, the unit will flash Alternator with engine off, key out but a door open. The Treggy has two batteries, one starter and one for accessories (auto rear door, lights, bells and whistles etc). The DC-DC might be triggered by the accy battery (which juices when a door opens) - might have to ensure that the DC-DC is connected to the starter battery.
The house battery is a 100Ah Lithium from Safiery.
Talking out aloud, I think I know the root cause now.
@@stuartkcalvinTalk about complicated haha; my understanding of these chargers is that the Alternator light basically acts as an indicator of status as well. The interval between flashes lets you know the voltage of the starter battery/alternator input - if it's solid its above cut-in threshold and ready to start charging, and if its flashing it's below cut-in, and if it's flashing long intervals it's wayyy below. Either way I'd definitely be connecting the DC-DC feed straight to the starter battery, as that's going to be the most direct route to the Alternator when the engine is running.
Have you connected an ignition wire to the DCDC at all?
@@jakegalczynski9898 Thanks. If the engine's off, I shouldn't expect a flashing alt light - but I get one. It flashes slowly but I brought the Lithium up from 11.8 to 13.4. It won't go solid and I can't move it off bulk after three hours driving.
No ignition wire connected - it's bundled up under the charger - it's black with a ring connector ... to the neg on the starter?
Just wanna check a few things... You mentioned that the alternator light is flashing slowly when the vehicle isn't running - that's normal, it simply says that the voltage at the STARTER battery isn't high enough to start charging, but is in fact connected correctly.
As for the lithium being at 11.8 (the aux I assume, unless you have a lithium starter battery too??) and then you brought it up... I gather you brought it up with another external charger or something?
Remember that the DCDC - in fact any DCDC - doesn't care what the Aux battery is doing, it wants to see the starter battery voltage increase - ie when the car is started and the alternator on the engine starts providing charge.
If you increase the voltage of the aux battery, by solar or another charger the DCDC won't kick in. The voltage must increase on the engine side indicating that the engine had started and is now ready to charge.
And ignition wire on the Kickass DCDC according to the manual is the Blue wire with Ignition on its label. The black wire in a bundle is an optional battery temperature sensor - it can be cut off, but once cut cannot be reconnected.
As your vehicle is a newer one - 2008 - I'd be connecting the ignition wire (blue) to a source of power that ONLY comes on when the engine is running, like in my first comment, and see how you go with that. It's pretty common with DCDCs and newer vehicles because of the newer style alternators. I hope this makes sense
Why dont you flog a blue piggy back fused blue wire to connect from fuse box to blue wire that is just click and connect. All sorted ?
Different make, models of vehicles have different fuse boxes. Unfortunately it is not viable for us to carry these items in stock as they can be purchased very cheaply at Repco etc. Sorry.
i have a cigarette accessory socket in back of car. this is an only ignition on plug. in other words only powered when engine running. I plug my battery box dcdc ig on wire into this via a cig male plug that doesn't have the earth wire on it. wiring was already there. so no need to run another wire. a lot of cars have a plug like this in rear.
Hey Gizmo, Thanks for the tip!
Do you ship to the United States
Hi legend! You can purchase from our USA Site here: kickassproducts.com/
Ya say ignition wire but I know of accessories and constant which is it constant usually red or accessories usually yellow we wanna tap into just to be sure Iv done various installs before and I already know but from the horse's mouth lol
G'day mate,just make sure you only have power while the engine is running & bob's your uncle
Thanks for watching
Cheers Craig
Actually on many vehicles you have OFF,ACC,ON (igniton).
G'day dan,as long as you only supply power when engine is running,i prefer to use fuel pump relay circuit
Thanks for watching
Cheers Craig
Are these dc-dc chargers supposed to get hot? I went for a 25mins drive today and when I got home my dc-dc charger was boiling hot almost burnt my arm haha
G'day cookie,they can get over 60 deg so can get very hot,there is a lot going on in there,make sure you have ventilation around the unit
Cheers Craig
Need to sell plug covers for these.
The 3 pin anderson style connector is available here www.australiandirect.com.au/buy/kickass-3-pin-50a-grey-anderson-style-connector/AND3PIN501SP
@@KickAssProducts and now they are out of stock once again!!!!.. 10 days after you posted this comment... hmmm.... not very good hey??
Are we just gonna ignore the fact that Brad Pitt is telling us about 12v charger setups?
Thanks mate,love the comment,wish Jennifer Aniston would take my calls lol
Cheers Craig
buy a sterling dc dc and u don't need a 3rd wire it is smart alternator ready connect an forget.
accessory wire
?
@@KickAssProducts Accessories is the keys position that engages the use of.
its keith urban
Jon Bon Jovi actually!
Actually it's Off, Accessories, then On. Then Start, but you knew that. Accessories equals stereo working, yes.
Battery box
Not sure what you mean sorry?
Why not just use an Ignition Sense Module so you don't need to run the third wire? Multiple Australian Companies make them and are cheap. they work with anyone's DCDC Chargers.
Sure that is an option, however Ignition sense modules generally run on motion detection. We are simply offering a different solution to directly connect a charger where you don't need to run a third wire separately because the ignition wire is included in the loom.
@@KickAssProducts the ones I have used check the wave form from the alternator voltage as a backup if needed.
Kicking my wallets ASS!!@
$99.95 for side-cutters?!
G'day mate,it's crazy the price of some tools,google snap on side cutters & it will blow you away.nothing wrong with the sidchromes in my book
thanks for watching
Cheers Craig
I came here to roast the triple Anderson plug as one of the most laziest developments I've ever seen, but I can see a lot of potential to them.
The camera guy cant keep still……
We have a new camera guy!
It’s not an ON wire it is the IGNITION wire, most cars have OFF, ACC, IGNITION, START. Stop confusing people, the original terminology is correct! Also the Redarc BCDC1250D post late 2019 early 2020 will also charge a lithium from dead flat, I know as I have tested it with my 1250D, so your ‘competitors’ are already onto it and have for a while now.
We are talking about the triple Anderson and the automotive cable with the ignition sense wire built in. Please drop a link to a competitor doing that now! Love to see it! Also what we are talking about is our DCDC can bring a lithium that is in low voltage protection mode (please elaborate on your definition of a dead flat lithium) back to operation without any user intervention but this video does not get into that topic although soon will be a video that will.
Such a totally condescending attitude I’m this video. Instead of worrying about your competitors how about you do a little bit of research on your own product 😂, it’s not the on wire that’s for the starter motor, it’s actually the ignition wire as stated “I” which is when the ignition is on, and the engine is running. Accessories is what powers your radio which also stays on when you click one more time to Ignition, any more clicks, the engine turns over via the starter motor so do not wire it to the ON wire.
G'day again mate,yes the ignition wire is there to get a on & off signal to turn the dcdc on at lower voltages to help overcome those tricky new smart charging systems,i like the idea of smart charging systems & any way to save fuel from the alternator not working overtime is great way to get better economy & means more road trips & less stops at the servo
i personally like the ignition wire connected to a power source that is only on when the engine is running & my favourite is tapping into the fuel pump fuse as the pump is only on when the engine is running