Bloody love this channel. The boys are doing projects for the normal bloke which is bloody relatable. Not like these other channels putting $14k of 12V and solar into a $130,000 brand new cruiser. Keep it up lads!
Yeh a $130K cruiser given to them for free & all the accessories fitted by every company for free too. Oh & don’t forget the free caravan worth $100K they tow along goat tracks & the bar-crusher boat. So outta touch with the average person.
Love how simple you make it look. Only thing I'd do would br enclose the chargers in a small see through box, just to reduce anything touching the positive terminals and causing a short.
Awesome set up 👍 The only change I would do is change out the tek screws for M8 nutserts (ribnuts) with M8 bolts with spring washers. Tekies will eventually vibrate loose or snap.
I see that battery's recommended charge current is 25A and maximum is 100. Even that recommended current is probably not ideal for life of the battery. So sure, if this is seen as a disposable, go ahead. Personally, I wouldn't risk that insane setup on my worst enemy!
Excellent utilisation of what otherwise is wasted space. Great tip on checking the factory wiring for improvements. I will have to check that on my rig myself. Good one Liam. 👍👌
Love the channel and watching your builds mare! 👌 Ctek charges are still my preferences after 14 years of using their charges. I fitted the same D250SE and Smartpass 120S in my camping rig to look after my batteries and it’s a game changer!
Hey gents - great setup, just wanted to share my experience with high current charging. When I first put a bcdc1250 (50a) in my 105, I found it was also maxing out my alternators capacity at around 40-45a. Great for the lithium but it turns out it wasn't allowing the start battery to charge so it would keep going flat especially after driving at night. Hopefully you don't have the same issue but I'd get onto upgrading the alternator as soon as ya can. Cheers
One of the fun things about the SmartPass is that it'll trickle charge your starter from your lithium when you're parked up, and if that's not enough when you go to start the engine it'll just bridge the lithium in and let it help turn the engine over.
mate, another excellent video.i was surprised you could lay the battery flat and not upright.that in itself is a decider when buying new battery.you make your electrical setups look so easy. Again you lads have done it proud, keep up the videos,im sure a lot of us learn at least something from each video👍.
Max charge on that battery is 100A, Kings Recommend only 25A charge rate to get the most life from it, the higher the charge on a Lithium the shorter the life of the battery.
Yes you will cook that battery very quickly with 100amp charge. Purchase a better quality battery with a higher max charge rate and the system will also have longevity. I have the exact same setup of CTEK in my van.
The two places ill never put a lithium battery on a 4x4 is under the bonnet or underneath the car , underneath them batterys don't like getting wet , stones and stakes hitting them if it gets damaged its a thermal bomb 😮 and i don't think ya insurance company will like it eather 🤔 I'd seriously look at changing that please , other than that you guys are the best 👍👍merry Christmas
Awesome, I love the video and how excited you get about the setup. I also love that you throw about $1,200 of CTEK and Victron chargers and shunts onto the $399 battery.
Another great DIY. You make it look so easy. I like that you guys are not brand snobs. I too have been using the Kings 120Ah (AGM) battery, 200W Solar blanket & 160W fixed solar panel for 5 yrs now and they're still going strong (touch wood). So when it's time to replace my AGM to a lithium, I have no issues using the Kings version. TIP: I'd recommend wrapping a bit of electrical tape at battery end of your split tubing to prevent it from moving and/or sliding. As over time this could potentially cause wear.
@@HammerRocks your a lucky one. Sounds like u look after ur batteries. But still i see a tonne of kings,amptech and neauton powers come in dead after 2-3 years.
Really enjoyed watching that. Never seen one of your videos before, but will be watching more from now on. I dont know tons about auto electricals so i got alot out if this. Thanks.
I love stuff done cheap. My 12 v system uses power tool batteries. Im never away for more than a few days and a couple of 4a/h power tool batteries do all I need. I'll be interested to see how your battery handles being out in the open. Great job
34 days since the last incident nice, a good tip to keep safe is to pop your hands right next to the grinder, saw or drill press to stop the material that your working on from moving around
Really good rundown of how to DIY a system! Only things I would be worried about is the effect of very high current charging on the lifespan of the battery - every battery prefers lower and slower (up to a point) and most commercial BMS limit amperage for that reason even if the battery can technically take more. BMS in the battery should try to protect it so I'll be interested if the BMS will fight you for overheating etc on a 100amp charge on a 40 degree day. Also the position of the battery and the bottom CTEK unit being low to the floor if you ever do take on water for whatever reason. Will be looking forward to how it does over time, if that battery location goes without a worry with normal use, vibration, puddles etc I think you have opened up a cool new option for a lot of single cab setups for those of us who wouldn't ever have to worry about a deep water crossing.
I have this exact set up, 250SE, 120S and victron monitor so for anyone interested here's my experience. Its on an Iveco Daily with a 210amp alternator feeding a 300amp lithium leisure battery that has a continuous charge and discharge rating of 200amps. When the battery is at around 10% soc and I start the engine get slightly in excess of 140amps going in for a few seconds. This very quickly taills off and after around 5 minites of engine running the charging curve is below 100amps. After 10 minutes its down at around 80amps. It settles out at around 80amps with revs or around 70amps at idle. The curve then very very gradually tails off to around 30amps when the batteries BMS shuts down charging because its full. Its never the CTEK that shuts off the charging like I thought it would, always the BMS. On the whole I'm happy with the system but i think its misleading to market it as a 140amp system. The bulk of my charging is done at 70-80amps from an alternator that can charge up to 210a into a battery that will take 200a continuously.
Hey lads, I also recently purchased 2 x 100ah Slimline Kings Lithium. I'm really happy with them. I strapped them together and put them in series for a 24v trolling motor setup on the boat. I also had to make a tray as literally nobody sells a tray for the slim lines.
Nicely done. The quick charge is definitely worthwhile but check the max charging current on the Lithium - if you exceed that max charge current chances are the BMS in the battery will disconnect the battery...then no charging. If you put a small solar panel on the roof - 100 - 200W then the battery will be kept within safe limits when you park the vehicle for a few days. I imagine the two chargers, the shunt and other stuff will sip current 24/7 from the battery. Maybe you can fit a larger unit on the canopy when that comes?
Great job 👍. And the fact you use king's stuff when all other you tubers get gifted stuff and then won't/don't use cheap stuff like king's. I've used a lot of stuff from them and it helped me get out there. If I was to purchase branded name's, then I'll be still saving.
Great video, good to see at end of video u coved the wiring . Was bit nervous at the start showing pair wires feeding threw grommets and all. I know ya guys do things correct I didn't dout for a second. Sick set up
Excellent. Been looking at those C-TEK units. They are really popular for normal battery chargers and make generally great kit. I do like that Victron shunt, too. I wondered about putting a re-settable breaker instead of the fuse. The fuse could blow at an inconvenient time, especially if you’re around water etc and breakers are now very common and well used in these applications. It’s not uncommon for older vehicles, which weren’t designed for leisure electrics to underperform in these areas as you’ve found out, not just on wiring. Upgrading your alternator might be one thing but the new battery will have a max charge rate anyway. Not sure if you mentioned what that is? Your alternator choice might also be limited if it’s only driven by one belt. Bigger units tend to need two belts. Keep the great work coming!!
Love what you guys do. Budget, fairdinkum but also realistic and proven based on real word results. Good work crew. Might add, don't bother with resetable circuit breakers, go old school. Mine died on a trip to Cape York, and ended having to rewire to continue the trip. Guessing vibrations.
Hi Liam, as soon as I heard you talk of 140Amp recharge alarm bells began ringing for me as Kings Lithium aren't rated for that recharge, other brands are (ex Itech) . Aren't you a tad concerned you're overdoing the charge rate as 25Amp is the recommended & 100Amp max, direct from Kings spec sheet below: Recommended Charge / Discharge 25A (0.25C) Max recharge current 100A Taking those figures into account, running at 50Amp is feasible. Just my thoughts. Just a tad concerned with water ingress with undertray mount. Should fully enclose by vented casing maybe. Regards, Wealie.
Going over the recommended 25a charge rate will just reduce the life of the battery, thats all. Going over the max charge of 100a could damage the battery though.
Agree with this, a bit silly getting a lithium battery that’s main advantage is lifespan and then killing it prematurely with overly fast (or even too high) charge rate
Another great vid. Change out the Tek screws for bolts and saving the sad headaches on the tracks. I would put a sheet metal cover over the battery as well even though it is mounted fairly high. Rocks and shit are Kamikaze Missiles. 😂😂
Great value and easily upgradeable for more switchable loads. Probably only add a 150A resetable circuit breaker in case you have to isolate things quickly. 👌🏼🤙🏼
All good, but you wont charge at over 100amps - max discharge is 100Amps of that battery, and max charge will be similar - that 55amps is a perfect 0.5C charge for that battery and still way fast enough, so no need to waste money on a bigger alternator.
@biopsiesbeanieboos55 no, they are linked. If you double that battery to 200ah it will take 200amps. Note that some BMSs are not equal charge/discharge and some may charge only at half the rate of discharge (BMS throttling not the cells unable to charge faster).
Question is the main battery isolated from the system. I don't know anything about dc to dc chargers so can someone explain how the system is connected to get charge is it the altinator or onto the main bsttery with a disconnect at certain volts
This is awesome guys. Nice work. Probably worth noting that the slimline lithium here looks to be rated for maximum 100A charge current. So probably don't want to be dumping 140A in there if you don't want to cook your battery.
I'm not ashamed to say that young people half my age can be smarter...I wouldn't mind picking these boys brains and learn something. Awesome video boys.
What is the limitation on the amount of amps the battery can receive? Pointless getting a bigger alternator if the battery cant take more than 50 Amps?
Nice one fellas, one thing to mention did you place a fuse at the battery side of the cable? i didnt see one, also didnt see any protection for the cable running back to the cab. A fuse close to the battery is a must. If there is a short on that cable (especially being a 4wd) it will end badly
Nice work guys, having done this myself could I be so rude as to make a few suggestions which you may have already done. I’m not familiar with Ctech but using victron DC TO DC myself, can you delay the charge to the secondary battery for say 1 min or so?. This will give the alternator a chance to recover the start battery voltage before charging the secondary battery. Kinder on the alternator. Second and you’ve already said it, a larger alternator. This is because when I measured the temperature of my alternator it was becoming uncomfortably hot, and six months later I ended up having to change the bushes, and slip rings ( basically a rebuild) of the alternator, from pulling so much power. However, great system you’ve got. I also mounted a computer fan to the DC TO DC charger as holding back all that current that wants to flow to the lithium ( which has comparatively no internal resistance) does generate a fair bit of heat, this caused the DC TO DC charger to dial back the charge rate which is good but not what you’re aiming for . Hope this helps someone.
Great stuff boys, big fan of the victron gear, my setup is mostly this gear also. BUT the origin DCDC just doesn't cut the mustard, I've got the 30amp version but rarely see it, mostly hovers around 25 :( The CTEKs units sound like the go!
Love the backboard idea. Might have to borrow some of your ideas for my project. I thought the selling point of the Smartpass was to provide additional power when cranking the start battery? Will also trickle charge the start battery when the 2nd battery is full if you run constant solar.
Wow ... 11:08 ... Per CTEK, the SmartPass will try to start the truck with the aux battery if the starter battery is dead. Did you realize that? 15:20 ... The CTEKs should have (do have?) a provided accessory metal plate behind them because they're mounted on flammable carpet. The CTEKs are also supposed to have good ventilation. Do they? 0:30 ... I watched the video where the King battery is already dead & dissected. Are you familiar with AS/NZS3001.2:202? ... may not apply ... definitely good to know about, if you didn't already.
What's the cost difference of the ctek 140amp capable kit plus a larger alternator vs a ~40amp dcdc with 200amp of lithium to get you through a few days of standing camp? Those victron BT shunts are so handy! Love mine.
Actually you connected the black wire from the smartpass to ground/negative, which is incorrect for lithium batteries. It should also be connected to positive. Now the battery is charged like an AGM battery, which will damage the battery
Looks great, are you going to add some permanent anderson plugs to the outside of the ute? Maybe a small solar panel as well? Also would it be worth relocating your main fuse (dcdc to aux batt) from inside to as close as possible to your slimline? With the potential of sticks or whatever getting caught in those wires maybe put it at the battery Loving the content, your guys recent stuff has definitely been great
Ive done really similar but different. I ended up cooking the alternator which was no surprise. I upgraded to a 150amp alternator and not im blowing a fusible link. Im certain its the alternator signal wire. Im pretty sure as now I can pump 150amps into the batteries the 80amp fusible link is saying yeah now way buddy. When batteries are fully charged I have no issues. When they drop to 75% my fusible link says no. Something to plan for.
Yeah, I agree, you'll cook that alternator but you'll be upgrading anyway. Get a big quality alternator. You may also run into the problem that your main battery won't be getting replenished quick enough in certain sutuations as the 2nd battery may be hogging the power. Just something to think about. Great video guys. I have the ctek charging my lithium too and have been pondering buying the smart pass too. So I will follow your build for updates.
Awesome bro, lov your DIY videos, cool how your trying the cheaper kings gear and not bagging the shit out of it straight away, not everyone has arb/24/7 budgets
Lipo batteries burn at over 2000deg C. Make sure you have that battery protected so you don't get a hole poked into the cells, and your system fused. I have just bough a kings battery, the same (great price) and wired it in parallel with another battery of the same specs to give me 200Ah discharge as I found 100Ah was great to run my fridge but not much else.
I have a question, isn't the 100ah King's Lithium battery limited to 100AMP Maximum recharge current? Doesn't that mean you'll be overcharging the battery with a new alternator?
I would say your limitation would be the BMS in the battery. Would be interested to hear if anyone else with a king slimline has been able to get 100amps into it.
Great video guys, add in the prices of all the materials so people get an accurate idea of what it would be like for their budget. Otherwise it’s a lack of transparency, people can sense it and it distances you from the audience - people will respond very well if you can tell them how much for the materials and where you go for them
I don't want to be that guy, but... It's "dual" not duel! The batteries don't need to challenge each other to the death! They don't need jousting sticks either 😊 Love your work.
question on the thicker alternator cable install...... Did you leave the original cable connected to the back of the alternator after you added the new cable? Also I didnt see a vacc pump behind your alternator, Did you change the setup with that at some earlier stage?
Kings specs on the battery state 100A continuous charge/discharge rate, so he's currently well within that rating. Even with an upgraded alternator, he would only be nudging this rate short term allowing for covering the vehicle loads. Kings specs look a bit on the conservative side for a LiFePO4 battery in terms of charge/discharge rates (lower spec cells??)
@@andrewr886 Have another read of the specs. 100A is the maximum rate. There's a price to pay for doing it and that price is lifespan. The recommended rate is 25A charge and discharge. The cell manufacturer's original data, if it can ever be obtained, will spell it all out in the charts. Of course going hard all the time may still meet the lifespan requirements for the given application but it won't be 2000 (or the nominal count if shallow cycling rather than full to flat and back). The closer down to 25A when charging the longer the life.
keeping battery closest to charger as possible reduces cable size required which I’m sure you’re aware of. How come you didn’t mount battery closer to front of the tray? Charging at 100amp all the time if possible would only degrade battery quicker compared to charging at whit it currently is of 50amp
Just curious why you wouldn't put battery in a inclosed box and use grommets for cable making it totally seal able from elements. Lithium don't need venting although dont like heat either.
@zoneout_au I ran an additional fused wire to my alternator after watching this, made a huge difference in my patrol, and I don't even have a dcdc charger, only a vsr. Keep the aux battery charging well.
Great vid, nice clean install. If you notice any irregularities with your shunt, you might want to move it closer to the battery, but it should be fine. I'd say 50 amps is a great charge rate for those batteries. Although they may be rated for a higher charge rate, it's best to stick to a batteries recommended charge rate, roughly half of max charge as a rule of thumb, to get the most life out of it. Also I'm curious about that idle up dial? Is it factory ? Wouldn't mind one on my TD
just a quick note why did CTEK reccomend a 300 amp fuse? a fuse is meant to be the weakest point in a system so that if there is a short and amps overcurrent, the fuse blows and not the less rated wiring and anyway 160amp (140 +20 amp) x 1.25 is a recommended =200amps.
Nice setup, neat and simple. The system draws a lot of amps to charge a battery, what have you done to disable the 12v system so you can use a winch? Another thirsty unit
This is the pinnacle of doing things on a budget whilst making sure its safe and proper. You guys are awesome 👍🏼
Thanks mate!!
Bloody love this channel. The boys are doing projects for the normal bloke which is bloody relatable. Not like these other channels putting $14k of 12V and solar into a $130,000 brand new cruiser. Keep it up lads!
130K is a base model LC.
Or worse.... 20k battery set up in a car that's worth 30 in peak covid
Yeh a $130K cruiser given to them for free & all the accessories fitted by every company for free too. Oh & don’t forget the free caravan worth $100K they tow along goat tracks & the bar-crusher boat. So outta touch with the average person.
Haha, true stuff guy's, hence why I gave up watching them, overpriced & over cocky..
4:51 in the background "Days Since Last Incident : 34" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Love how simple you make it look. Only thing I'd do would br enclose the chargers in a small see through box, just to reduce anything touching the positive terminals and causing a short.
Tec screws for the battery mount are an issue boys. They will rattle out or shear. Please replace with bolts lock washers and nylock nuts. Great vid.
Awesome set up 👍
The only change I would do is change out the tek screws for M8 nutserts (ribnuts) with M8 bolts with spring washers. Tekies will eventually vibrate loose or snap.
I see that battery's recommended charge current is 25A and maximum is 100. Even that recommended current is probably not ideal for life of the battery. So sure, if this is seen as a disposable, go ahead. Personally, I wouldn't risk that insane setup on my worst enemy!
Excellent utilisation of what otherwise is wasted space. Great tip on checking the factory wiring for improvements. I will have to check that on my rig myself. Good one Liam. 👍👌
Thanks Fatman!!
Love the channel and watching your builds mare! 👌 Ctek charges are still my preferences after 14 years of using their charges. I fitted the same D250SE and Smartpass 120S in my camping rig to look after my batteries and it’s a game changer!
Hey gents - great setup, just wanted to share my experience with high current charging. When I first put a bcdc1250 (50a) in my 105, I found it was also maxing out my alternators capacity at around 40-45a. Great for the lithium but it turns out it wasn't allowing the start battery to charge so it would keep going flat especially after driving at night. Hopefully you don't have the same issue but I'd get onto upgrading the alternator as soon as ya can. Cheers
Thanks for the info nick! not to mention its alot of load on that poor old alternator
One of the fun things about the SmartPass is that it'll trickle charge your starter from your lithium when you're parked up, and if that's not enough when you go to start the engine it'll just bridge the lithium in and let it help turn the engine over.
@@TerryBrady-q5b Yeah it's a pretty cool backup system!
mate, another excellent video.i was surprised you could lay the battery flat and not upright.that in itself is a decider when buying new battery.you make your electrical setups look so easy. Again you lads have done it proud, keep up the videos,im sure a lot of us learn at least something from each video👍.
Thanks mate!!
Max charge on that battery is 100A, Kings Recommend only 25A charge rate to get the most life from it, the higher the charge on a Lithium the shorter the life of the battery.
Yes you will cook that battery very quickly with 100amp charge. Purchase a better quality battery with a higher max charge rate and the system will also have longevity. I have the exact same setup of CTEK in my van.
Another awesome video lads. Great explanation on the full system
Would like to see a 12 month follow up review video. Love watch your content, keep up the good work.
Yeah we will definitely keep you updated with how it performs!
The two places ill never put a lithium battery on a 4x4 is under the bonnet or underneath the car , underneath them batterys don't like getting wet , stones and stakes hitting them if it gets damaged its a thermal bomb 😮 and i don't think ya insurance company will like it eather 🤔 I'd seriously look at changing that please , other than that you guys are the best 👍👍merry Christmas
Good call. You were proven right. He ended up destroying that battery, due to water ingress.
Awesome, I love the video and how excited you get about the setup. I also love that you throw about $1,200 of CTEK and Victron chargers and shunts onto the $399 battery.
About $750 for the ctek stuff and $170 for the smart shunt. Not bad value.
Another great DIY. You make it look so easy. I like that you guys are not brand snobs. I too have been using the Kings 120Ah (AGM) battery, 200W Solar blanket & 160W fixed solar panel for 5 yrs now and they're still going strong (touch wood). So when it's time to replace my AGM to a lithium, I have no issues using the Kings version. TIP: I'd recommend wrapping a bit of electrical tape at battery end of your split tubing to prevent it from moving and/or sliding. As over time this could potentially cause wear.
Thanks HammerRocks! nice setup! definitely will be worth going to lithium when the AGM dies, it'll make a massive difference! Cheers
Kings are crap. Battery quality directly relates to cost. Cheap batteries are crap batteries.
@@acedogboy8421 I beg to differ. I've had mine for 5 years and still going.
@@HammerRocks your a lucky one. Sounds like u look after ur batteries. But still i see a tonne of kings,amptech and neauton powers come in dead after 2-3 years.
Got a question, why not mount the battery behind the passenger seat, away from water and dirt?
Wouldn’t that be safer and use lesser wires?
Really enjoyed watching that. Never seen one of your videos before, but will be watching more from now on.
I dont know tons about auto electricals so i got alot out if this. Thanks.
Thanks mate! Welcome!! Cheers !
Exactly my same thoughts. Will attempt to do a system in my new Cannon, Cheaper than buying a battery box, but a little more work.
I love stuff done cheap. My 12 v system uses power tool batteries. Im never away for more than a few days and a couple of 4a/h power tool batteries do all I need. I'll be interested to see how your battery handles being out in the open. Great job
34 days since the last incident nice, a good tip to keep safe is to pop your hands right next to the grinder, saw or drill press to stop the material that your working on from moving around
Really good rundown of how to DIY a system! Only things I would be worried about is the effect of very high current charging on the lifespan of the battery - every battery prefers lower and slower (up to a point) and most commercial BMS limit amperage for that reason even if the battery can technically take more. BMS in the battery should try to protect it so I'll be interested if the BMS will fight you for overheating etc on a 100amp charge on a 40 degree day. Also the position of the battery and the bottom CTEK unit being low to the floor if you ever do take on water for whatever reason. Will be looking forward to how it does over time, if that battery location goes without a worry with normal use, vibration, puddles etc I think you have opened up a cool new option for a lot of single cab setups for those of us who wouldn't ever have to worry about a deep water crossing.
I have this exact set up, 250SE, 120S and victron monitor so for anyone interested here's my experience. Its on an Iveco Daily with a 210amp alternator feeding a 300amp lithium leisure battery that has a continuous charge and discharge rating of 200amps.
When the battery is at around 10% soc and I start the engine get slightly in excess of 140amps going in for a few seconds. This very quickly taills off and after around 5 minites of engine running the charging curve is below 100amps. After 10 minutes its down at around 80amps. It settles out at around 80amps with revs or around 70amps at idle. The curve then very very gradually tails off to around 30amps when the batteries BMS shuts down charging because its full. Its never the CTEK that shuts off the charging like I thought it would, always the BMS.
On the whole I'm happy with the system but i think its misleading to market it as a 140amp system. The bulk of my charging is done at 70-80amps from an alternator that can charge up to 210a into a battery that will take 200a continuously.
Nice work but beware the BMS in that Kings battery is only rated to charge at 25A. Thanks for the content. Cheers
Pause at 0:39 and you can see that the battery label states a max charging current of 100A. Where did you get the 25A value from?
@@deefadale sorry don't have a time machine to go back 4 months in time
Nice job….the only channel on youtube for the everyday person on a budget.
Hey lads, I also recently purchased 2 x 100ah Slimline Kings Lithium. I'm really happy with them. I strapped them together and put them in series for a 24v trolling motor setup on the boat. I also had to make a tray as literally nobody sells a tray for the slim lines.
Simple elegant system 9/10
Nicely done. The quick charge is definitely worthwhile but check the max charging current on the Lithium - if you exceed that max charge current chances are the BMS in the battery will disconnect the battery...then no charging.
If you put a small solar panel on the roof - 100 - 200W then the battery will be kept within safe limits when you park the vehicle for a few days. I imagine the two chargers, the shunt and other stuff will sip current 24/7 from the battery. Maybe you can fit a larger unit on the canopy when that comes?
Great job 👍. And the fact you use king's stuff when all other you tubers get gifted stuff and then won't/don't use cheap stuff like king's. I've used a lot of stuff from them and it helped me get out there. If I was to purchase branded name's, then I'll be still saving.
Great video, good to see at end of video u coved the wiring . Was bit nervous at the start showing pair wires feeding threw grommets and all. I know ya guys do things correct I didn't dout for a second. Sick set up
Oh hahaha yes that all got covered in conduit ! haha
Excellent. Been looking at those C-TEK units. They are really popular for normal battery chargers and make generally great kit. I do like that Victron shunt, too. I wondered about putting a re-settable breaker instead of the fuse. The fuse could blow at an inconvenient time, especially if you’re around water etc and breakers are now very common and well used in these applications.
It’s not uncommon for older vehicles, which weren’t designed for leisure electrics to underperform in these areas as you’ve found out, not just on wiring. Upgrading your alternator might be one thing but the new battery will have a max charge rate anyway. Not sure if you mentioned what that is?
Your alternator choice might also be limited if it’s only driven by one belt. Bigger units tend to need two belts.
Keep the great work coming!!
Love what you guys do. Budget, fairdinkum but also realistic and proven based on real word results. Good work crew. Might add, don't bother with resetable circuit breakers, go old school. Mine died on a trip to Cape York, and ended having to rewire to continue the trip. Guessing vibrations.
You did an amazing job mate, your ability shouldnt be understated, so much potential. Really nice finish and performance.
Hi Liam, as soon as I heard you talk of 140Amp recharge alarm bells began ringing for me as Kings Lithium aren't rated for that recharge, other brands are (ex Itech) .
Aren't you a tad concerned you're overdoing the charge rate as 25Amp is the recommended & 100Amp max, direct from Kings spec sheet below:
Recommended Charge / Discharge
25A (0.25C)
Max recharge current
100A
Taking those figures into account, running at 50Amp is feasible.
Just my thoughts.
Just a tad concerned with water ingress with undertray mount. Should fully enclose by vented casing maybe.
Regards, Wealie.
Going over the recommended 25a charge rate will just reduce the life of the battery, thats all. Going over the max charge of 100a could damage the battery though.
Agree with this, a bit silly getting a lithium battery that’s main advantage is lifespan and then killing it prematurely with overly fast (or even too high) charge rate
Another great vid. Change out the Tek screws for bolts and saving the sad headaches on the tracks. I would put a sheet metal cover over the battery as well even though it is mounted fairly high. Rocks and shit are Kamikaze Missiles. 😂😂
Looks sick mate
I’d get rid of the smart pass! Pumping that much into a battery isn’t good for the battery or the alternator! 20A for a 100ah battery is perfect!👍
Another Great Video Guys. Loving my 120 Ah lithium setup as well works great with the shunt.
Bloody love Sundays. Ripper A.A
Cheers mate!
For your next camping mod or down the track should make your own canopy or something for storage. Keep up the good vids.
Great value and easily upgradeable for more switchable loads. Probably only add a 150A resetable circuit breaker in case you have to isolate things quickly. 👌🏼🤙🏼
...or just a stonking great isolator switch.
All good, but you wont charge at over 100amps - max discharge is 100Amps of that battery, and max charge will be similar - that 55amps is a perfect 0.5C charge for that battery and still way fast enough, so no need to waste money on a bigger alternator.
You beat me to saying that too.
So battery capacity and battery charge rate are not necessarily related ? Am I understanding that correctly ?
@biopsiesbeanieboos55 no, they are linked. If you double that battery to 200ah it will take 200amps. Note that some BMSs are not equal charge/discharge and some may charge only at half the rate of discharge (BMS throttling not the cells unable to charge faster).
@@KevIsOffGrid Clearly I don’t understand this topic as well as I thought 😊
Question is the main battery isolated from the system. I don't know anything about dc to dc chargers so can someone explain how the system is connected to get charge is it the altinator or onto the main bsttery with a disconnect at certain volts
This is awesome guys. Nice work. Probably worth noting that the slimline lithium here looks to be rated for maximum 100A charge current. So probably don't want to be dumping 140A in there if you don't want to cook your battery.
Awesome job guy's, love your work, keeping it simple but with awesome results.
Keep the dream alive fellas..
Bloody good job, fellas
Excellent vid bro
I'm not ashamed to say that young people half my age can be smarter...I wouldn't mind picking these boys brains and learn something. Awesome video boys.
Great job guys, love your vids!
you might need to cut back the heat shrink under the lug @12:11 , looks like it might be preventing proper contact.
Top video world have been great to see more in depth of the wiring though.
Tidy install guys, but at 50A+ charge current you'll cook that battery pretty fast, as the manufacturer recommends max charge current of 25A.
That is exactly why lithium’s burn. Can’t be extinguished easily either. Lucky it’s under the tray 👌
That’s exactly spot on mate. Kings lithium are fine but need good brand chargers etc to keep things in good cond.
Another great video!!
What is the limitation on the amount of amps the battery can receive? Pointless getting a bigger alternator if the battery cant take more than 50 Amps?
I like that smart shunt and the phone app...
Nice one fellas, one thing to mention did you place a fuse at the battery side of the cable? i didnt see one, also didnt see any protection for the cable running back to the cab. A fuse close to the battery is a must. If there is a short on that cable (especially being a 4wd) it will end badly
Looks good, I would have liked if you had been more specific about the wires, clamps, and fuses you used.
EXACTLY THE BATTERY 🔋 I WAS LOOKING AT ❤
Nice work guys, having done this myself could I be so rude as to make a few suggestions which you may have already done.
I’m not familiar with Ctech but using victron DC TO DC myself, can you delay the charge to the secondary battery for say 1 min or so?.
This will give the alternator a chance to recover the start battery voltage before charging the secondary battery. Kinder on the alternator.
Second and you’ve already said it, a larger alternator.
This is because when I measured the temperature of my alternator it was becoming uncomfortably hot, and six months later I ended up having to change the bushes, and slip rings ( basically a rebuild) of the alternator, from pulling so much power. However, great system you’ve got.
I also mounted a computer fan to the DC TO DC charger as holding back all that current that wants to flow to the lithium ( which has comparatively no internal resistance) does generate a fair bit of heat, this caused the DC TO DC charger to dial back the charge rate which is good but not what you’re aiming for . Hope this helps someone.
Great stuff boys, big fan of the victron gear, my setup is mostly this gear also. BUT the origin DCDC just doesn't cut the mustard, I've got the 30amp version but rarely see it, mostly hovers around 25 :( The CTEKs units sound like the go!
Finally some aussie Content i love this, Im sick of all of these USA Content
Love the backboard idea. Might have to borrow some of your ideas for my project.
I thought the selling point of the Smartpass was to provide additional power when cranking the start battery? Will also trickle charge the start battery when the 2nd battery is full if you run constant solar.
Yeah it does that too!
Wow ...
11:08 ... Per CTEK, the SmartPass will try to start the truck with the aux battery if the starter battery is dead.
Did you realize that?
15:20 ... The CTEKs should have (do have?) a provided accessory metal plate behind them because they're mounted on flammable carpet.
The CTEKs are also supposed to have good ventilation. Do they?
0:30 ... I watched the video where the King battery is already dead & dissected.
Are you familiar with AS/NZS3001.2:202? ... may not apply ... definitely good to know about, if you didn't already.
What's the cost difference of the ctek 140amp capable kit plus a larger alternator vs a ~40amp dcdc with 200amp of lithium to get you through a few days of standing camp? Those victron BT shunts are so handy! Love mine.
I used to have an 150amp alternator in my old gq used to charge so good
Actually you connected the black wire from the smartpass to ground/negative, which is incorrect for lithium batteries.
It should also be connected to positive. Now the battery is charged like an AGM battery, which will damage the battery
Looks great, are you going to add some permanent anderson plugs to the outside of the ute? Maybe a small solar panel as well?
Also would it be worth relocating your main fuse (dcdc to aux batt) from inside to as close as possible to your slimline? With the potential of sticks or whatever getting caught in those wires maybe put it at the battery
Loving the content, your guys recent stuff has definitely been great
Good video mate.
Ive done really similar but different. I ended up cooking the alternator which was no surprise. I upgraded to a 150amp alternator and not im blowing a fusible link. Im certain its the alternator signal wire. Im pretty sure as now I can pump 150amps into the batteries the 80amp fusible link is saying yeah now way buddy. When batteries are fully charged I have no issues. When they drop to 75% my fusible link says no. Something to plan for.
Thanks for the info! awesome
Yeah, I agree, you'll cook that alternator but you'll be upgrading anyway. Get a big quality alternator.
You may also run into the problem that your main battery won't be getting replenished quick enough in certain sutuations as the 2nd battery may be hogging the power. Just something to think about.
Great video guys. I have the ctek charging my lithium too and have been pondering buying the smart pass too. So I will follow your build for updates.
Awesome bro, lov your DIY videos, cool how your trying the cheaper kings gear and not bagging the shit out of it straight away, not everyone has arb/24/7 budgets
That's it! cheers louis!
Great work mate ❤
Lipo batteries burn at over 2000deg C. Make sure you have that battery protected so you don't get a hole poked into the cells, and your system fused. I have just bough a kings battery, the same (great price) and wired it in parallel with another battery of the same specs to give me 200Ah discharge as I found 100Ah was great to run my fridge but not much else.
Pretty cool. Definitely nut and bolt that battery bracket... those teckies are the weak link.
100Ah is the maximum charging current for that battery so don't exceed that please. That's how you get the battery to catch fire.
I have a question, isn't the 100ah King's Lithium battery limited to 100AMP Maximum recharge current? Doesn't that mean you'll be overcharging the battery with a new alternator?
Could you boys do a price rundown on things like this? Love your content cheers
I would say your limitation would be the BMS in the battery. Would be interested to hear if anyone else with a king slimline has been able to get 100amps into it.
Great work🔥, should start a fabrication shop up with all the cool shit that yous make
Awesome stuff. I’m looking at a 270ah alternator for my GU TD42
Great video guys, add in the prices of all the materials so people get an accurate idea of what it would be like for their budget. Otherwise it’s a lack of transparency, people can sense it and it distances you from the audience - people will respond very well if you can tell them how much for the materials and where you go for them
I hope you put a fuse on both ends of the battery because the voltage can ho both ways from the main and also from the secondary battery
I don't want to be that guy, but... It's "dual" not duel! The batteries don't need to challenge each other to the death! They don't need jousting sticks either 😊
Love your work.
nah do it, it's basic Engrish and that.
question on the thicker alternator cable install...... Did you leave the original cable connected to the back of the alternator after you added the new cable? Also I didnt see a vacc pump behind your alternator, Did you change the setup with that at some earlier stage?
Good video. How do you change the RPM on the car from the steering column?
What spray adhesive are you actually using to stick the carpet on? cheers guys
Just be careful on the charge limit on the battery, you dont want to exceed that. But this is fantastic boys. Well done.
Kings specs on the battery state 100A continuous charge/discharge rate, so he's currently well within that rating. Even with an upgraded alternator, he would only be nudging this rate short term allowing for covering the vehicle loads. Kings specs look a bit on the conservative side for a LiFePO4 battery in terms of charge/discharge rates (lower spec cells??)
@@andrewr886 Have another read of the specs. 100A is the maximum rate. There's a price to pay for doing it and that price is lifespan. The recommended rate is 25A charge and discharge. The cell manufacturer's original data, if it can ever be obtained, will spell it all out in the charts. Of course going hard all the time may still meet the lifespan requirements for the given application but it won't be 2000 (or the nominal count if shallow cycling rather than full to flat and back). The closer down to 25A when charging the longer the life.
goolge lithium reacting in water, pretty neat stuff to have happen under your tray.
Do you mind sharing the brand/ type of spray adhesive you used?
The stuff I bought from Bunnings was completely useless
You fellas have it made. Sweet 12v system Liam. The mighty pootrol is nearing on a good week away for a shake down campaign. Cheers
100% can't wait!
Can I ask, did you upgrade your ground from the alternator too?
Can you please cover earthing in more details?
keeping battery closest to charger as possible reduces cable size required which I’m sure you’re aware of. How come you didn’t mount battery closer to front of the tray? Charging at 100amp all the time if possible would only degrade battery quicker compared to charging at whit it currently is of 50amp
Just curious why you wouldn't put battery in a inclosed box and use grommets for cable making it totally seal able from elements. Lithium don't need venting although dont like heat either.
Awesome!! So, did you just run an additional wire from the alternator to the battery? And did you fuse it?
Would love to know the answer to this as well. Im only getting 20a with the exact same setup except I run a 200ah lithium
@zoneout_au I ran an additional fused wire to my alternator after watching this, made a huge difference in my patrol, and I don't even have a dcdc charger, only a vsr. Keep the aux battery charging well.
Thanks@@lukecollins7965So you're not going thru smartpass at all?
Great vid, nice clean install. If you notice any irregularities with your shunt, you might want to move it closer to the battery, but it should be fine. I'd say 50 amps is a great charge rate for those batteries. Although they may be rated for a higher charge rate, it's best to stick to a batteries recommended charge rate, roughly half of max charge as a rule of thumb, to get the most life out of it. Also I'm curious about that idle up dial? Is it factory ? Wouldn't mind one on my TD
Thanks for the info Will! it's a factory hand throttle, very handy! cheers
just a quick note why did CTEK reccomend a 300 amp fuse? a fuse is meant to be the weakest point in a system so that if there is a short and amps overcurrent, the fuse blows and not the less rated wiring and anyway 160amp (140 +20 amp) x 1.25 is a recommended =200amps.
Nice setup, neat and simple. The system draws a lot of amps to charge a battery, what have you done to disable the 12v system so you can use a winch? Another thirsty unit
nice job mate
Cheers mate!
Hey guys so is the shunt connected to the common negative or connected to the auxiliary negative battery?
Just don’t get the reading on my shunt
Good video lads , I have the smart pass 120s and the dcdc I can't charge over 20 amps , I have a 280amp alternator any advice