I’m not a Kings fan but I just installed the batbox into my sons car and the integrated carry handles and having everything built in plus having an actual shunt makes this a clear winner easily. Lack of proper fusing, no shunt and the DC-DC charger slapped up on top was a deal breaker for us. Note: the Kings box is also $50 cheaper.
With all the testing myself and friends have done with Kings gear lately, it seems as if they have improved. As for iTechworld, I only have two products and so far not had any issues with either of them. At the time of recording this video, both the Kings and iTechworld battery boxes were advertised at the same price. But I do find Kings play with prices all the time so one doesn't need to pay full price, especially with their package deals they have.
Good job on the video. After this if I was going to get a box, I would get the king's one. The lack of outputs can easily be solved using the Anderson plugs if needed. Job well done.
Lovely Ep and comparison , If I had that Kings Box Id fit a small computer 5cm fan inside the box to cool the DCDC charger, As our Renagy dcdc charger has a small fan in it and it runs very cool,
Yes, I was surprised to see it mounted inside the box like that. KIngs user manual for the 25A dcdc page 2 Safety instructions states: Warning: The unit may get hot during operation and Required minimum airgap, 150mm airound unit.
I looked at heaps of battery boxes for my new Troopy in the end I bought the National Luna Blue box it had plenty of outlets and room for more with push out blanks the wiring was well done and all quality gear,I added my existing DC/solar charger and it works well.
I emailed Itechworld earlier this year about the useless voltmeter, but their fabulous customer service totally ignored me and did not reply. Kings, while not my choice of first class product, are smarter. I would cut a square out of the top of the Batblock and fit a grille. No-one would ever use all the outlets on the Itechworld box at once, in my view the Kings has enough outlets. It also comes supplied with the 3 pin anderson plug with alternator/ignition wire.
Yep had the same problem with ITech world about a battery I bought from them , some questions sent on line and have heard nothing back from them . Anaconda is another useless pack of mongrels who sent me the wrong item and despite 2 emails , have heard nothing back from them either .
Same as myself , I have emailed Itech world 3 times and never had a reply from them about a 50 ah battery I bought from them . Some 💩 customer service .
Glen u r a bloody good reviewer I recently bought the kings box and battery I will remove the clear plastic cover enclosure for the dcdc to let son heat out as u mentioned
I built a full hybrid portable setup. Hardkorr pro box, kings 120ah lithium battery, victron Bluetooth shunt. Then on either side of the box I mounted a victron 20amp solar charger and victron 30amp dcdc. Then on the lid I mounted a kings 1500w inverter. Look it’s bulky but it has absolutely everything and is completely portable if I wish it to be
I would go with the kings unit because it has fuses and not thermal circuit breakers. Thermal circuit breakers in the Itech units can overheat and Catch Fire.
Thanks for reviewing both of these battery boxes which I was considering for my ute. In my case I mainly bought the Kings one because they were just down the road from me, whereas the iTechworld one is in WA. Also being a pensioner I already had a 100a/hr lithium battery I bought from Aldi at the time. I liked the Kickass one too but the hideous cost of freight put me off there. Anyway I will subscribe so you can explain what shunts do in more detail.
The shunt monitors current flow, it calculates the amount of power entering and leaving the battery. Once calibrated correctly, it can accurately calculate a batteries state of charge (SOC) and tells you how much power you have left in the battery. It also shows the amount of current / wattage leaving or entering the battery as well as the battery voltage, all in realy time. They are a detailed fuel gauge for your battery.
I've got a battery box (not going to name) that I modified all of the cabling as it all undersized even though, like the positive cables in your video has 4 awg printed on them. I actually removed these and after cutting the lug off, I found that they were mostly insulation with about 4 mm of copper inside.
Thanks for the video, i recently got the itechworld box over christmas in a bare setup (no dcdc etc) for $200 delivered. Im very curious on what shunt setup and display ypu are running as i was going to run a 50a renogy dcdc with Bluetooth monitoring. Any advice you could throw my way would be great
I don't have one but I have always thought having the DC/DC built in would overheat and they needed to have it vented, but venting it would then allow more dust to accumulate inside. I think they could recess the top to allow the DC/DC to be mounted in the same position but on the outside allowing it to cool plus not transferring any heat inside.
I’ve had the itech world with a 120pro in for just over 12 months I made the same modifications as you, renogy shunt, and 40amp DCDC. I also installed wired a fellow travellers 12v car wiring kit for their kings box. I came to the same conclusions you did. I mounted the 40amp DCDC charger just under the handle and use a tred leveling pad as protection in the car. I put the renogy on the other side of the box lid and kept the original monitor, but in hindsight your way makes so much more sense, although I would likely use a Bluetooth victron shunt next time as I would like to check what % the charge is at while we drive, or if 4x4ing checking to see if the fridge is still drawing power. I also use it to charge the caravan, so it would be good to not have to go to the back of the car constantly to check when I’ve taken enough power from the battery. Itech world definitely need to use a fuse in line as well, even if it’s slightly over rated so that it will blow if the fault finally melts the circuit breaker. It also needs to have the shunt from factory, they also need to have a protective cover around the isolation switch as it can be knocked ‘off’ easily, I’ve found my fridge turned off a few times always at the wrong time. I’m being a bit nit picky here but it would also be good if the USB plugs were recessed as I have damaged both cords and the outlet from other things moving around in the car. Great video, thank you for making!!!!!
Thanks mate, great review and good to see the internals. I must say, I really don't understand the negative comments some have made on both items. They fill their brief well, they're portable and meet the basic power requirements that a lot of people have. It's doesn't need to be complicated or overcooked like some 12v systems out there. As for some bloke's claim below that "They both melt in the outback especially the kings" - really?
Yeah there are a lot of people that surf RUclips looking for stuff to complain about, feeding their own egos. RUclips is full of them now, their such experts, they can't even make their own RUclips channel to validate their superior knowledge. There are some people with valid points but for the other stupid comments, you never seen them backing up their claims..... you got me started 🤣
@@TheSimpleLivingAussie Completely agree. Spurious claims with no data or facts to substantiate them. It's sadly becoming far too common nowadays. I think most of it is intentional, of concern though is that some people just believe their own misinformation, or that of others and spread it further. You can't defend the truth with such people as it's akin to arguing with a delinquent. Anyway, enough soapboxing from me... now you got me started. Cheers, and thanks again for the great review.
The tech one is the same as many others. I got one from ardent. Didn’t get the dcdc as I have them already. It was over a year ago I got it, so didn’t have as many Anderson plugs, but the design is sold by many places with their own twist on how many sockets etc.
Before these were available I made my own battery box and used the dcdc charger from Jaycar and a Victron shunt. If I was buying one right now it would most likely be the Kings. Looking at the colour of the cable at the lug end, my guess is aluminium ..
I was wondering you thought on the RENOGY battery with RJ45 BMS communication system. Is it better to monitor the BMS directly rather than a shunt ????
I haven't used the Renogy batteries so I can't realy comment on them. But I think having access to the batteries details through the BMS, like cell voltages, would be very useful.
One person suggested to remove the clear panelling Infront of the charger to let in some air flow. I must admit I haven't bothered doing that, I should give it a try myself and see.
From what I've heard Itech after sales is no better than Kings. Taking into account Kings's nationwide storefronts I would suggest that Kings is ahead in terms of after sales compared to itech. That alone puts me off itech. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
It's the cable for the Renogy shunt I installed. The cable from the shunt to the screen is long and I didn't want to cut it shorter and have to resplice the cable. So I coiled up the cable as with the temperature sensor on the Kick Ass DC to DC, it was also long and had to coil that up as will.
I've got the I-TECH world version,it's ok but I've had trouble with the screen that monitors the charge,I see you have swapped yours out,and also I received mine not completed and had to build it but did put a fuse and Anderson plug between the iso and battery,for the $1100 it cost I thought it may have been a little better,so did your original dcdc charger and battery pack it in or did you just upgrade it,cheers for the great videos
I upgraded the DC to DC charger only because I was given it by a friend and it was the 40 amp charger. Other than that I would have kept the original 25 amp charger on the box. I never put in an iTechworld battery due to their price but I do plan in the future to get hold of an iTechworld battery to test.
No issues that I am aware of. You do have the anti Kings experts (who never use these products so they don't realy know) they say they will catch on fire. But like any device, use it as specified in the owners manual, don't go past the amperage ratings on the outputs and you should be fine. So far I have not had any issues with my batblock but I mainly use it to run my car fridge which has a low current draw.
Do you think its necessary to ground a 1000w inverter plugged into the go further battery box? It seems to be a grey area earthing inverters in vehicles.
Yeah it is kinda and depends on the type of inverter, it's internal wiring set up, if the inverter runs an RCD /RCBO and is going to an AC distribution box which runs a grounding line. So there is no clear yes or no as there are so many variables. but for the battery boxes it is not worth it as most of the boxes are made of plastic.
I use the Kings battery box in the car to run the car fridge and use a 200 watt folding solar panel to keep the battery topped up. You can see this setup and how it all works in the latest video I recently uploaded on my channel.
Yeah good video imo. I've always wondered whether going down this path rather than the all in one units that are so popular is a better way to go. Seems that replacing a faulty part of upgrading would be simpler. I've seen some of the more expensive versions of these advertised so I wonder that they're like.
I would like to get hold of an all in one power station but the prices are not cheap. If you have a components failure, you have to send the entire unit in to be fixed Vs swapping out any failed parts.
@@healthyliving9811 The shunt goes in-between the battery negative and the negative bus bar. Then all circuits run from the bus bar to the load / supply.
This is what I found on Itech site re the battery box, re the wiring. The heavy-duty ABS construction and thick, fortified copper wire ensure that you receive the highest-quality battery box possible.
I wounder how much copper to tin ratio they have as the cable is pretty light weight. However the size of the cable is pretty thick on both units so they will probably be more then enough for the current draw they were designed to handle.
Funny that stock standard its just about impossible to get a great battery box for a fair price. I have the Kings Battery Box unit thats about $70 and modified and added the hell out of it. Upgraded the battery leads, added a hall effect shunt, 20A Victron MPPT, XT60, 30A Anderson powerpoles, main terminal fuse and a few other dc outlets for flexibility. Such a pity that heavy guage cable isnt standard as sooner or later an unpleasant outcome for someone is in store.
Na, these are not a power stations. They are a battery box that cater for a place to store a battery and be able to access DC power through different ports. You can charge them from AC with an external AC battery charger, so it can still be done.
I bought these with my own money. Both Kings and iTechworld don't know I exist, my channel is way to small. The iTechworld box runs the DC circuits in my cabin as I live fully off grid. The Kings box stays in the car to run the car fridge and DC loads when camping.
I don't actually have any footage of the Kings DC to DC running as the battery box is fitted in the car and I don't usually look at it as it mainly runs from the alternator power. Occasionally I may plug solar into it when camping and usually keep an eye on the battery monitor. If you look at the owners manual you should be able to see what LED's should be flashing which will depend on what is powering the DC to DC being either solar or alternator. You can see the LED's flashing on my Kick Ass DC to DC in my video "Can You Mix Match Different Solar Panels" but that isn't the Kings one so probably no help there. So best thing is to check the owners manual which you could probably download from the Kings website if you have misplaced your one.
Did you end up working out whether the iTech box has a fuse on the input from the battery? It certainly doesn’t look like it has from the positive side at least. I’m wondering though if they’ve fused the negative side somehow, as it appears the negative lead goes to something with a yellow sticker and an arrow on it? Do you know what that is? If there is no fuse at all then I think that’s a serious concern for the iTech box, especially considering the Anderson plug for the inverter would not be fused at all.
Na it doesn't have a fuse on the battery lead unfortunately. The thing the negative cable goes into with the yellow sticker on it, is the shunt for the battery monitor.
@@djnmvkings is so much better these days since they are actually making their. own product rather than buying cheap things and slapping a sticker on it
Great video mate. I was waiting for someone to do a comparison. All very valid points. I noticed that the kings main cable is open at where it connects to the lugs. Could look at that to tell if it is copper or aluminium?. Also wondering if it is easy enough to change the built in shunt in the kings box to a victron shunt which is Bluetooth so that the batt lock can be stored somewhere I don’t have to look at the screen to know the SOC. I like the Kings form factor, I hadn’t considered the heat dissipation issue so thanks for pointing it out. Well done.
I did look at the ends of the cable lugs and it's kinda hard to tell as some cable can be copper clad aluminum cable. The weight of the cable suggests it is not pure copper but it's probably still fit for purpose and a way they keep their costs down. Yes you could put a Victron shunt in as both the Kings shut and Victron shunts are similar in side so it be just a matter of swapping them over.
i think you might be too invested in the itech world one, the kings is clearly better, better design, better battery security, better fusing. the two disadvantages of the kings 1 not as many ports is only an issue if it's not enough ports for you i can't see too many people needing more than it has. 2 the dc dc charger being mounted inside would have to overheat before you could say it was a problem (kings dc dc chargers are known to fail anyway) the itech world packaging is a deal breaker, a box with a dc dc slapped on top and handles sticking out the side. both could be redesigned with the dc dc external but packaged within the footprint of the box and protected from damage but still allow airflow.
Sounds like your very biased to the Kings box and that's fine. Remembering at the start of this video I mentioned it was my own opinion of how I found the two battery boxes and other people may have a different opinion to mine. It all comes down to personal choice I guess. Yeah the iTechworld battery box has twice the amount of 50 amp Anderson plugs and I still need more for what I use this box for. It runs multiple DC circuits around my cabin but I have made some adaptors to fix that problem. Yes I do like the foot print of the Kings box and it fits better in my car compared to the itechworld box and a reason the Kings is in the car. I do find the itech box is way easier to pick up and move around with the bigger handles compared to the kings. So yeah it all comes down to the individual persons needs. With the DC to DC charger getting hot as they all do right on top of a Lithium battery is not a good thing and the reason I liked the external option of the DC to DC, but that's my thoughts. Someone suggested to put a cooling fan in the Kings box which I thought was a good idea.
@@TheSimpleLivingAussie i don't have either only watched for information. but if i was to buy my decision would be easy. the kings 120ah battery has a 120amp continuous output so having two 50a anderson plugs is on par with the battery if you had multiple lower load devices you can use a double or even triple adapters on both outlets and the inverter posts. there's also the option of adding more ports of your own which is cheaper and easier than adding a shunt battery monitor on the itechworld.
@@6226superhurricane yes having the pre wired shunt in the Kings box would definitely seal the deal for a lot of people and adds an extra cost if installing one to the iTechworld box.
Only way to get the right battery box is to make your own. I know that the 4AWG cable is copper! Let's not forget they're both made in China. Mine is made in my shed in Australia 😅😅
I think itech fell asleep when they planned this build. No fuse between battery cable is a total fail. Remember guys, they will fail when your outback away from any help turning your fun holiday into a nightmare.
I have bought several itech products over the years but i dont like them any more primarily because of their questionable marketing strategies - their products are always on sale, the RRP is pure suck in BS. EOFY sale is replaced by some other type of sale is replaced by....etc etc As for the lack of shunt, i think they expect u to buy one of their 120x pro batteries with built in blue tooth BMS.. I bought their charging cable as well but it is undersized ie gets hot when charging. Disappointed, wont be buying any more from them. Agree with other comments- cheap imported low quality crap
The cables were very light in weight so I doubt there would be much copper in them but I would have to cut the cables in two and confirm it, which I am not willing to do as it means I would have to replace the cable. So far they work for what I need them for, so time will tell I guess 👍
@@ArturArt321 I am guessing your meaning the output terminals on the Kings BattBlock. It is 120 amps which is what most Lithium batteries are rated to that would fit in the box. So it would be good enough for a 1000 watt inverter. All the info on it is on their website, click the specifications tap and it shows all the output ratings. www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/batblock25.html?gad_source=1
Compared to other options this is dated rubbish, would have been ok ish 10-5 years ago, they both have very major flaws. They both melt in the outback especially the kings They both use a crappy DC to DC it's one same one just rebadged it's the same as one Jay car one and it's only $140 on eBay and there not that good 😮 Should cut the wire and see if alloy
I don't understand how it is legal to have a lithium battery in a plastic box in a vehicle...plastic is not fireproof. These products are technically illegal under hazmat regulations for charging and storage of lithium batteries in Australia.
These batteries are Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) which is different to Lithium NMC or Lithium Polymer. People always get this confused and put LFP batteries is the same class as NMC and so on. LFP batteries are way safer than NMC and Lithium Polymer batteries and have way less chance of hitting thermal run-a-way. But yes technically all lithium batteries have their dangers, even LFP batteries "but" here is the thing when it comes to the safety..... Laptop batteries, phone batteries and most lithium toy batteries are the dangerous lithium chemistry, yet it's legal to have them in the house, inside the plastic housing of a laptop, phone and so on. So the question is where does one draw the line as if any battery goes up in flames, even the small laptop and phone batteries, ones house will be lost regardless of battery size.
Thats interesting that they have the same cabling, I do like the look of the KINGS one though. The iTech one still looked out dated. KINGS have come a long way over the years, all the negative feedback appears to be making them better and they are still keeping the price down. Interested in the reason for swapping the iTech DCDC charger for the KickAss version, I noticed you said it was a gift, what does it have over the iTech one? I have that iTech DCDC charger, and not really a fan, the change/transfer from Alternate/Not Connected to Solar is fairly slow.
The Kickass is the 40 amp DC to DC charger where the iTechworld was only the 25 amp charger. So I swapped it around to give me more charging capabilities if needed as well as the iTechworld was running very hot with the 400 watts of solar I have hooked to it. With the 40 amp charger I am not running it to it's maximum when charging from my panels so it runs way cooler.
Why are they shitboxes? Unsubstantiated claims like this are of no value to anyone. Both products fill their brief well, that is - portable 12V system to run a fridge or other basic 12V devices, solar and alternator charge options - the end. The components in such devices are not complicated, power in, power out. Good cable management, DC/DC charger-regulator and power data display (on the Kings anyway). I really don't know what's shit about that.
I'd give the kings a slightly higher rating ,given it also has that fuse between bat and isolator
I’m not a Kings fan but I just installed the batbox into my sons car and the integrated carry handles and having everything built in plus having an actual shunt makes this a clear winner easily. Lack of proper fusing, no shunt and the DC-DC charger slapped up on top was a deal breaker for us. Note: the Kings box is also $50 cheaper.
With all the testing myself and friends have done with Kings gear lately, it seems as if they have improved. As for iTechworld, I only have two products and so far not had any issues with either of them.
At the time of recording this video, both the Kings and iTechworld battery boxes were advertised at the same price. But I do find Kings play with prices all the time so one doesn't need to pay full price, especially with their package deals they have.
Great video, been waiting for a good review on the Batblock. Great to see you back on RUclips Glen, we missed your videos. 🙏👍🏻
Good job on the video. After this if I was going to get a box, I would get the king's one. The lack of outputs can easily be solved using the Anderson plugs if needed. Job well done.
Lovely Ep and comparison , If I had that Kings Box Id fit a small computer 5cm fan inside the box to cool the DCDC charger, As our Renagy dcdc charger has a small fan in it and it runs very cool,
Yes, I was surprised to see it mounted inside the box like that. KIngs user manual for the 25A dcdc page 2 Safety instructions states: Warning: The unit may get hot during operation and Required minimum airgap, 150mm airound unit.
I looked at heaps of battery boxes for my new Troopy in the end I bought the National Luna Blue box it had plenty of outlets and room for more with push out blanks the wiring was well done and all quality gear,I added my existing DC/solar charger and it works well.
I emailed Itechworld earlier this year about the useless voltmeter, but their fabulous customer service totally ignored me and did not reply. Kings, while not my choice of first class product, are smarter. I would cut a square out of the top of the Batblock and fit a grille. No-one would ever use all the outlets on the Itechworld box at once, in my view the Kings has enough outlets. It also comes supplied with the 3 pin anderson plug with alternator/ignition wire.
Yep had the same problem with ITech world about a battery I bought from them , some questions sent on line and have heard nothing back from them . Anaconda is another useless pack of mongrels who sent me the wrong item and despite 2 emails , have heard nothing back from them either .
Same as myself , I have emailed Itech world 3 times and never had a reply from them about a 50 ah battery I bought from them . Some 💩 customer service .
thank you for the video, for someone like me who do not know much about it the video was perfect for understanding both options.
Glen u r a bloody good reviewer I recently bought the kings box and battery I will remove the clear plastic cover enclosure for the dcdc to let son heat out as u mentioned
I built a full hybrid portable setup. Hardkorr pro box, kings 120ah lithium battery, victron Bluetooth shunt. Then on either side of the box I mounted a victron 20amp solar charger and victron 30amp dcdc. Then on the lid I mounted a kings 1500w inverter. Look it’s bulky but it has absolutely everything and is completely portable if I wish it to be
A godsent review! Much needed and here it is!
I would go with the kings unit because it has fuses and not thermal circuit breakers. Thermal circuit breakers in the Itech units can overheat and Catch Fire.
Would love to see you throw a Kick Ass box into the mix
Thanks for reviewing both of these battery boxes which I was considering for my ute. In my case I mainly bought the Kings one because they were just down the road from me, whereas the iTechworld one is in WA. Also being a pensioner I already had a 100a/hr lithium battery I bought from Aldi at the time. I liked the Kickass one too but the hideous cost of freight put me off there. Anyway I will subscribe so you can explain what shunts do in more detail.
The shunt monitors current flow, it calculates the amount of power entering and leaving the battery. Once calibrated correctly, it can accurately calculate a batteries state of charge (SOC) and tells you how much power you have left in the battery.
It also shows the amount of current / wattage leaving or entering the battery as well as the battery voltage, all in realy time. They are a detailed fuel gauge for your battery.
I've got a battery box (not going to name) that I modified all of the cabling as it all undersized even though, like the positive cables in your video has 4 awg printed on them. I actually removed these and after cutting the lug off, I found that they were mostly insulation with about 4 mm of copper inside.
Thanks for the video, i recently got the itechworld box over christmas in a bare setup (no dcdc etc) for $200 delivered.
Im very curious on what shunt setup and display ypu are running as i was going to run a 50a renogy dcdc with Bluetooth monitoring.
Any advice you could throw my way would be great
I don't have one but I have always thought having the DC/DC built in would overheat and they needed to have it vented, but venting it would then allow more dust to accumulate inside. I think they could recess the top to allow the DC/DC to be mounted in the same position but on the outside allowing it to cool plus not transferring any heat inside.
🇦🇺 great comparison. Personally I will go for the Kings as no modifications required (maybe change USB C to 60amp for Starlink mini) 👍🏽
Thanks mate, just the video I needed
I’ve had the itech world with a 120pro in for just over 12 months I made the same modifications as you, renogy shunt, and 40amp DCDC. I also installed wired a fellow travellers 12v car wiring kit for their kings box. I came to the same conclusions you did.
I mounted the 40amp DCDC charger just under the handle and use a tred leveling pad as protection in the car.
I put the renogy on the other side of the box lid and kept the original monitor, but in hindsight your way makes so much more sense, although I would likely use a Bluetooth victron shunt next time as I would like to check what % the charge is at while we drive, or if 4x4ing checking to see if the fridge is still drawing power.
I also use it to charge the caravan, so it would be good to not have to go to the back of the car constantly to check when I’ve taken enough power from the battery.
Itech world definitely need to use a fuse in line as well, even if it’s slightly over rated so that it will blow if the fault finally melts the circuit breaker. It also needs to have the shunt from factory, they also need to have a protective cover around the isolation switch as it can be knocked ‘off’ easily, I’ve found my fridge turned off a few times always at the wrong time.
I’m being a bit nit picky here but it would also be good if the USB plugs were recessed as I have damaged both cords and the outlet from other things moving around in the car.
Great video, thank you for making!!!!!
Thanks mate, great review and good to see the internals. I must say, I really don't understand the negative comments some have made on both items. They fill their brief well, they're portable and meet the basic power requirements that a lot of people have. It's doesn't need to be complicated or overcooked like some 12v systems out there. As for some bloke's claim below that "They both melt in the outback especially the kings" - really?
Yeah there are a lot of people that surf RUclips looking for stuff to complain about, feeding their own egos. RUclips is full of them now, their such experts, they can't even make their own RUclips channel to validate their superior knowledge.
There are some people with valid points but for the other stupid comments, you never seen them backing up their claims..... you got me started 🤣
@@TheSimpleLivingAussie Completely agree. Spurious claims with no data or facts to substantiate them. It's sadly becoming far too common nowadays. I think most of it is intentional, of concern though is that some people just believe their own misinformation, or that of others and spread it further. You can't defend the truth with such people as it's akin to arguing with a delinquent. Anyway, enough soapboxing from me... now you got me started. Cheers, and thanks again for the great review.
Great video mate, thank you very much. I really appreciate your videos.
The tech one is the same as many others. I got one from ardent. Didn’t get the dcdc as I have them already. It was over a year ago I got it, so didn’t have as many Anderson plugs, but the design is sold by many places with their own twist on how many sockets etc.
yes batbox does come with 4 stick pads.
I bought kings because been to many people have faulty itech gear. So does kings but they sell hell lot more
Before these were available I made my own battery box and used the dcdc charger from Jaycar and a Victron shunt. If I was buying one right now it would most likely be the Kings. Looking at the colour of the cable at the lug end, my guess is aluminium ..
good comparison mate keep up the good work
Thankyou for such a cool video. Ive always wondered what was inside those boxes.
Kick Ass vers Blue Apple next would be great
I was wondering you thought on the RENOGY battery with RJ45 BMS communication system. Is it better to monitor the BMS directly rather than a shunt ????
I haven't used the Renogy batteries so I can't realy comment on them. But I think having access to the batteries details through the BMS, like cell voltages, would be very useful.
Nice and clear comparison video.
I have a Bat Block and wondered about the heat, I wonder if you could put some ventilation holes around the charger.
One person suggested to remove the clear panelling Infront of the charger to let in some air flow. I must admit I haven't bothered doing that, I should give it a try myself and see.
Probably go with kings simply because they are everywhere and generally getting warranty is easy.
From what I've heard Itech after sales is no better than Kings. Taking into account Kings's nationwide storefronts I would suggest that Kings is ahead in terms of after sales compared to itech. That alone puts me off itech. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Lol... Love the disclaimer at the start... DCS vibes 😮
Ya gotta word things right on RUclips now, too many people / businesses wanna sue now-a-days 😋
On the Itech box what’s the coiled up black cables?
It's the cable for the Renogy shunt I installed. The cable from the shunt to the screen is long and I didn't want to cut it shorter and have to resplice the cable. So I coiled up the cable as with the temperature sensor on the Kick Ass DC to DC, it was also long and had to coil that up as will.
good video ,ate very interesting thanks.
I've got the I-TECH world version,it's ok but I've had trouble with the screen that monitors the charge,I see you have swapped yours out,and also I received mine not completed and had to build it but did put a fuse and Anderson plug between the iso and battery,for the $1100 it cost I thought it may have been a little better,so did your original dcdc charger and battery pack it in or did you just upgrade it,cheers for the great videos
I upgraded the DC to DC charger only because I was given it by a friend and it was the 40 amp charger. Other than that I would have kept the original 25 amp charger on the box.
I never put in an iTechworld battery due to their price but I do plan in the future to get hold of an iTechworld battery to test.
@TheSimpleLivingAussie what was that shunt meter you swapped yours out for , would I be able to get it from J-car or somewhere
Are there any known hazards/issues with the kings box? I’ve bought one and about to test it out over the weekend
No issues that I am aware of. You do have the anti Kings experts (who never use these products so they don't realy know) they say they will catch on fire. But like any device, use it as specified in the owners manual, don't go past the amperage ratings on the outputs and you should be fine.
So far I have not had any issues with my batblock but I mainly use it to run my car fridge which has a low current draw.
Do you think its necessary to ground a 1000w inverter plugged into the go further battery box? It seems to be a grey area earthing inverters in vehicles.
Yeah it is kinda and depends on the type of inverter, it's internal wiring set up, if the inverter runs an RCD /RCBO and is going to an AC distribution box which runs a grounding line. So there is no clear yes or no as there are so many variables. but for the battery boxes it is not worth it as most of the boxes are made of plastic.
I am looking at something just to run our fridge and a camp light (led x2) what do you suggest using solar to recharge it ???
I use the Kings battery box in the car to run the car fridge and use a 200 watt folding solar panel to keep the battery topped up. You can see this setup and how it all works in the latest video I recently uploaded on my channel.
Good start but need to see them hooked up to vehicle/solar
Yeah good video imo.
I've always wondered whether going down this path rather than the all in one units that are so popular is a better way to go. Seems that replacing a faulty part of upgrading would be simpler.
I've seen some of the more expensive versions of these advertised so I wonder that they're like.
I would like to get hold of an all in one power station but the prices are not cheap. If you have a components failure, you have to send the entire unit in to be fixed Vs swapping out any failed parts.
@TheSimpleLivingAussie did you run a bus bar for all your negatives to shunt?
@@healthyliving9811 The shunt goes in-between the battery negative and the negative bus bar. Then all circuits run from the bus bar to the load / supply.
This is what I found on Itech site re the battery box, re the wiring. The heavy-duty ABS construction and thick, fortified copper wire ensure that you receive the highest-quality battery box possible.
I wounder how much copper to tin ratio they have as the cable is pretty light weight. However the size of the cable is pretty thick on both units so they will probably be more then enough for the current draw they were designed to handle.
Thanks for sharing well done
Funny that stock standard its just about impossible to get a great battery box for a fair price. I have the Kings Battery Box unit thats about $70 and modified and added the hell out of it. Upgraded the battery leads, added a hall effect shunt, 20A Victron MPPT, XT60, 30A Anderson powerpoles, main terminal fuse and a few other dc outlets for flexibility. Such a pity that heavy guage cable isnt standard as sooner or later an unpleasant outcome for someone is in store.
Surely an unfused input system is a BIG thumbs down ?
Another great video: Do they put a warranty on them
yes both boxes come with warranty although I think that would be void by now with the mods I made 😆
No option for 240v charge?
Na, these are not a power stations. They are a battery box that cater for a place to store a battery and be able to access DC power through different ports. You can charge them from AC with an external AC battery charger, so it can still be done.
Dud you buy both of these or were they provided to you by the brands for review?
Transparency is everything
I bought these with my own money. Both Kings and iTechworld don't know I exist, my channel is way to small.
The iTechworld box runs the DC circuits in my cabin as I live fully off grid. The Kings box stays in the car to run the car fridge and DC loads when camping.
Are they waterproof
Na they are not waterproof.
@glenparkinson would u have any video footage of kings batblock dcdc charger working and what leds are supposed to be flashing please
I don't actually have any footage of the Kings DC to DC running as the battery box is fitted in the car and I don't usually look at it as it mainly runs from the alternator power. Occasionally I may plug solar into it when camping and usually keep an eye on the battery monitor.
If you look at the owners manual you should be able to see what LED's should be flashing which will depend on what is powering the DC to DC being either solar or alternator.
You can see the LED's flashing on my Kick Ass DC to DC in my video "Can You Mix Match Different Solar Panels" but that isn't the Kings one so probably no help there.
So best thing is to check the owners manual which you could probably download from the Kings website if you have misplaced your one.
Did you end up working out whether the iTech box has a fuse on the input from the battery? It certainly doesn’t look like it has from the positive side at least. I’m wondering though if they’ve fused the negative side somehow, as it appears the negative lead goes to something with a yellow sticker and an arrow on it? Do you know what that is? If there is no fuse at all then I think that’s a serious concern for the iTech box, especially considering the Anderson plug for the inverter would not be fused at all.
Na it doesn't have a fuse on the battery lead unfortunately. The thing the negative cable goes into with the yellow sticker on it, is the shunt for the battery monitor.
@@TheSimpleLivingAussie interesting, I would have expected iTech to do better than Kings on that kind of safety aspect.
@@djnmvkings is so much better these days since they are actually making their. own product rather than buying cheap things and slapping a sticker on it
Great video mate. I was waiting for someone to do a comparison. All very valid points. I noticed that the kings main cable is open at where it connects to the lugs. Could look at that to tell if it is copper or aluminium?. Also wondering if it is easy enough to change the built in shunt in the kings box to a victron shunt which is Bluetooth so that the batt lock can be stored somewhere I don’t have to look at the screen to know the SOC. I like the Kings form factor, I hadn’t considered the heat dissipation issue so thanks for pointing it out. Well done.
I did look at the ends of the cable lugs and it's kinda hard to tell as some cable can be copper clad aluminum cable. The weight of the cable suggests it is not pure copper but it's probably still fit for purpose and a way they keep their costs down.
Yes you could put a Victron shunt in as both the Kings shut and Victron shunts are similar in side so it be just a matter of swapping them over.
Yep heat up like a pizza oven 😅
i think you might be too invested in the itech world one, the kings is clearly better, better design, better battery security, better fusing.
the two disadvantages of the kings 1 not as many ports is only an issue if it's not enough ports for you i can't see too many people needing more than it has.
2 the dc dc charger being mounted inside would have to overheat before you could say it was a problem (kings dc dc chargers are known to fail anyway)
the itech world packaging is a deal breaker, a box with a dc dc slapped on top and handles sticking out the side.
both could be redesigned with the dc dc external but packaged within the footprint of the box and protected from damage but still allow airflow.
Sounds like your very biased to the Kings box and that's fine.
Remembering at the start of this video I mentioned it was my own opinion of how I found the two battery boxes and other people may have a different opinion to mine. It all comes down to personal choice I guess.
Yeah the iTechworld battery box has twice the amount of 50 amp Anderson plugs and I still need more for what I use this box for. It runs multiple DC circuits around my cabin but I have made some adaptors to fix that problem.
Yes I do like the foot print of the Kings box and it fits better in my car compared to the itechworld box and a reason the Kings is in the car. I do find the itech box is way easier to pick up and move around with the bigger handles compared to the kings. So yeah it all comes down to the individual persons needs.
With the DC to DC charger getting hot as they all do right on top of a Lithium battery is not a good thing and the reason I liked the external option of the DC to DC, but that's my thoughts. Someone suggested to put a cooling fan in the Kings box which I thought was a good idea.
@@TheSimpleLivingAussie i don't have either only watched for information.
but if i was to buy my decision would be easy.
the kings 120ah battery has a 120amp continuous output so having two 50a anderson plugs is on par with the battery if you had multiple lower load devices you can use a double or even triple adapters on both outlets and the inverter posts.
there's also the option of adding more ports of your own which is cheaper and easier than adding a shunt battery monitor on the itechworld.
@@6226superhurricane yes having the pre wired shunt in the Kings box would definitely seal the deal for a lot of people and adds an extra cost if installing one to the iTechworld box.
I like them both but Id build my own for cheaper with better components
Only way to get the right battery box is to make your own.
I know that the 4AWG cable is copper!
Let's not forget they're both made in China. Mine is made in my shed in Australia 😅😅
the wires, terminals, bolts even your shed materital are all from China.
How do you know?
I tech world make a 175 amp inverter cable heavy org cable and 175 amp middy fuse for the go further battery box🤔
Yeah I have heard they make that, I should get myself one of those cables.
Great video, keep em coming. Any chance you know a Alan Parkinson? I saw your thiess shirt in a few other vids
Na I don't know him. I was given the thiess shirt from a friend, I have never worked for them though.
Now do the same with a kickass 100ah, they are a hell of a lot more expensive but the quality is second to none
I think itech fell asleep when they planned this build. No fuse between battery cable is a total fail. Remember guys, they will fail when your outback away from any help turning your fun holiday into a nightmare.
I have bought several itech products over the years but i dont like them any more primarily because of their questionable marketing strategies - their products are always on sale, the RRP is pure suck in BS. EOFY sale is replaced by some other type of sale is replaced by....etc etc
As for the lack of shunt, i think they expect u to buy one of their 120x pro batteries with built in blue tooth BMS.. I bought their charging cable as well but it is undersized ie gets hot when charging. Disappointed, wont be buying any more from them. Agree with other comments- cheap imported low quality crap
Is it really aluminium cables they are using😅... Is there is an change its tinned copper wire which is the same color as aluminium..
The cables were very light in weight so I doubt there would be much copper in them but I would have to cut the cables in two and confirm it, which I am not willing to do as it means I would have to replace the cable. So far they work for what I need them for, so time will tell I guess 👍
Thanks for the reply, just wondering what the max continuous output current is when using the output terminals?
@@ArturArt321 I am guessing your meaning the output terminals on the Kings BattBlock. It is 120 amps which is what most Lithium batteries are rated to that would fit in the box. So it would be good enough for a 1000 watt inverter.
All the info on it is on their website, click the specifications tap and it shows all the output ratings.
www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/batblock25.html?gad_source=1
Kings looks like a fridge/eski 😅 and acts like a oven, itech is just itech😂😂😂😂
Compared to other options this is dated rubbish, would have been ok ish 10-5 years ago, they both have very major flaws. They both melt in the outback especially the kings
They both use a crappy DC to DC it's one same one just rebadged it's the same as one Jay car one and it's only $140 on eBay and there not that good 😮
Should cut the wire and see if alloy
Melt? What'd you do, throw them in fire or leave them in direct sunlight for hours?
I don't understand how it is legal to have a lithium battery in a plastic box in a vehicle...plastic is not fireproof. These products are technically illegal under hazmat regulations for charging and storage of lithium batteries in Australia.
These batteries are Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) which is different to Lithium NMC or Lithium Polymer. People always get this confused and put LFP batteries is the same class as NMC and so on.
LFP batteries are way safer than NMC and Lithium Polymer batteries and have way less chance of hitting thermal run-a-way. But yes technically all lithium batteries have their dangers, even LFP batteries "but" here is the thing when it comes to the safety.....
Laptop batteries, phone batteries and most lithium toy batteries are the dangerous lithium chemistry, yet it's legal to have them in the house, inside the plastic housing of a laptop, phone and so on.
So the question is where does one draw the line as if any battery goes up in flames, even the small laptop and phone batteries, ones house will be lost regardless of battery size.
Thats interesting that they have the same cabling, I do like the look of the KINGS one though. The iTech one still looked out dated. KINGS have come a long way over the years, all the negative feedback appears to be making them better and they are still keeping the price down.
Interested in the reason for swapping the iTech DCDC charger for the KickAss version, I noticed you said it was a gift, what does it have over the iTech one?
I have that iTech DCDC charger, and not really a fan, the change/transfer from Alternate/Not Connected to Solar is fairly slow.
The Kickass is the 40 amp DC to DC charger where the iTechworld was only the 25 amp charger. So I swapped it around to give me more charging capabilities if needed as well as the iTechworld was running very hot with the 400 watts of solar I have hooked to it. With the 40 amp charger I am not running it to it's maximum when charging from my panels so it runs way cooler.
Battle of the shitboxes lol
Why are they shitboxes? Unsubstantiated claims like this are of no value to anyone. Both products fill their brief well, that is - portable 12V system to run a fridge or other basic 12V devices, solar and alternator charge options - the end. The components in such devices are not complicated, power in, power out. Good cable management, DC/DC charger-regulator and power data display (on the Kings anyway). I really don't know what's shit about that.
Both built out of very cheap chinese parts, no good at all.
Both overpriced Chinese crap
a fire waiting to happen in both