Read the instruction manual for redarc sbi12 isolator and bcdc25 dcdc charger. Specs are identical, cut in at 13.2 and cut out at 12.7. I have both these units, isolator in my Hilux and dc charger in my Prado and can confirm cranking battery voltage is still around 12.7 after leaving overnight in both vehicles. I then looked up the manual for the projector unit you have. It has 2 modes, standard (same setting as redarc) and smart alternator mode which cuts out at 11.9! This would be killing your starting battery. So long story short check ya setttings. If you want to spend money,change to the redarc. If you want certainly when buying new then get the redarc with IGN in the product number as it has a trigger wire that you connect to your ignition to turn the unit on/off manually with the engine instead of sensing battery voltage. These things should not kill you main battery if they are setup correctly.
My Redarc bcdc25 has been installed for for a couple of years with a 200Ah lithium battery, a 160W fixed solar panel and a 200W folding panel when camped. I have also never had problems with my starter battery. I also use the ignition connect. It seems that incorrect settings and/or wiring are the cause of the problem in the video like you said.
-It should not be drawing any current from the starting battery to the aux battery with the ignition override connected to the ignition. Check that the ignition override wire does not have any voltage with the ignition off, it could be another accessory feeding some power back through the ignition with the ignition off (it may not necessarily take 12v to enable the controller). Otherwise it could be faulty unit.- -The ignition override wire should only be used if the vehicle has a smart alternator that switches voltage when the battery is fully charged while running. I'm not sure if that prado has such an alternator or not.- I watched the video again and I saw the 'Alternator' LED is on whilst the vehicle is switched off. That means the ignition override is incorrectly wired into the ignition switch. Check to see the ignition override wire is actually connected to the ignition switch and check the voltage with a multi meter to test it. It could be an accessory feeding power back through the ignition (it may not need 12v for the controller to enable). This means that it will drain the starting battery to 11.9 volts when the car is switched off. Not good! You do not need to wire up the ignition override in vehicles that do not have a smart alternator that switches voltage while the car is running. I'm not sure if that prado has one or not but I'm sure you'd know.
The ignition trigger will come on when it sees a potential difference, even if it's lower on the voltage front... sounds like the solar is somehow putting voltage to the ignition trigger somewhere along the line... A well designed dc-dc charger will look for the ripple which is left over after the full bridge rectifier and only charge when the alternator is actually running, no matter what state your battery is in, if it can't see the alternator artefacts, it won't turn on...
The DCDC charger is only designed to charge your secondary Battery from either solar or from your input from your Alternator via the primary battery. It should be placed inbetween the two battery's as it also acts as a battery isolator so when the car is not running it stops using power from the primary battery. Out of the two inputs it will always take the solar option first. I have the same charger set up to run a 1000w inverter with a 120AH AGM deep cell battery and am very impressed with the settup. Forget using the DCDC charger to charge your main battery. It's not designed for that. That's what your alternator is for. Sounds like you have a wiring issue with your settup.
I know exactly what it’s designed to do and it’s connect up perfectly well and there’s nothing faulty about it it’s happened to other people also sometimes they randomly drain the battery I know it only charges the extra battery but went on Solar it should help the cranking battery instead of discharge it which is obvious because that’s why we’ve got it there in the first place to protect the cranking battery so we can start the engine in the morning I’m glad you are happy with yours
Woke up one morning on a camp with a dead main battery even with a dc dc charger installed, so yeah not because they say It won’t drain doesn’t mean it won’t., so I installed an inline cut off switch between my dcdc and main. So I can cut the line manually when camping then hook up the solar....happy days
I’d suggest that BCDC charger has been setup for smart alternator settings, which won’t shut off the connection from the main battery until it sees less than 12.2v. On a conventional setting, it will shut off the connection at your suggested 12.8v.
These units may be solar priority. My RedArc installed in 2021 is solar priority. So if solar panels are running in no sunlight it may drain main battery slightly. I believe i have a relay/voltage sensor and an isolator for main battery. No main battery drain and no voltage drops e = i X r. Yes a button to feed the main battery from secondary battery would be very good so i don't have to bypass. Can do the shunt method but that comes with even more problems. Smart alternator set up can cause issues. Prestige Car Mechanic since 1988. First Diesel and 4WD This year, 2021 Prado. I have found a lot of good proper and relevant information off you this year.
I have a Redarc DC DC 1250, 50 amp charger and have it fitted in the canopy of my Ram Truck with 2 /100 amp/ hr Lithum batteries. It is wired correctly with ignition sensitive feed as per manufacturer requirements. I do not have the problem which you are having while solar is charging. Even without the ignition sensitive wire attached the unit only stays connected after the ignition is switched off when the starting battery lowers to 12.7 which is normal voltage. I suggest you read up on these units as I feel they are great value and not the size of a family biscuit tin like some others, and made in Austraila.
when you adda 240 charger to your main battery and it get over 13 v the dcdc kicks in and if your charger is only 10amp and the dcdc charger is pulling 25amp that will kiil your main.
Dunno ... I use intervolt dc dc with 260w of fixed solar winter summer 130w... 400ish ah of batteries never had an issue... systems balanced to keep depth of discharge above 80% to maintain longevity in the batteries...regardless isolate and 240v charge each battery once a month. Ps have seen some brands “running” away and glitches with charging lithium and geckos fried on boards and decapitated by fans inverters too... regardless when in a remote location I manually isolate the main / starter battery over night as a precaution against made in China or India components.
I agree, there is an issue. My solution for my Tourer build that parks outside all the time with 200 watt roof mounted solar panel that charges second deep cycle battery on solar priority from 45ampProjecta Dc to Dc too. To look after starter battery, I have a 20watt solar panel to solar controller I connect up to the starter battery to keep it 100% charged. Both batteries now get to 100% daily with vehicle parked up in drive.
The projector DC/solar without the blue wire ignition connected starts charging when it reads 13.4 volts and turns off at 12.8 volts so it does use up the float voltage on the start battery but they work fine for most cars with smart alternators they do draw a little power constantly from the start battery 20mA. The solar charge controller they have MPPT is a great leap forward older systems allowed the solar panels to draw power from the battery at night if you did not fit blocking diodes
I used a Redarc smart isolater under the bonnet between crank and spare, The crank was also connected to a Renogy dcdc with solar preference in rear of car which charged two lithium in parallel . I placed isolation switches from front to dcdc and from house out. Fixed solar on roof also switched to dcdc. I could close everything thing down when not in use. Renogy dcdc charges house, once full would charges crank and smart isolater would switch to bonnet spare, once all charged Renogy stops charging. Never had any issues. I could also press button on dash to join crank n bonnet spare to start car.
I have experienced the issue you demonstrate where the projecta seems to get confused and continue to draw from the cranking battery when the voltage has dropped below the cut off point. Unplugging all connections and re connecting fixes mine as does changing the battery type to something else and back again. It's very infrequent so not sure what triggers it.
That projector charger should not be charging from the main battery if the volts are not more than 13.4 volts and engine alternator running must be faulty or bad design.
Solar panels which don't have the zenar diode built in (such as fold out solar panels), will act as a load when they are connected across a battery when the voltage produced from the solar panels is less than that of the battery it is connected to. That could be your issue.
What is your solar panels charging into? The starter battery or the auxiliary? You have a smart alternator so if your solar is going into the starter the dcdc will sense there’s charge going into the starter and trigger the dcdc charger drawing 25 amps or whatever amps the dcdc is straight into the aux battery, the solar won’t keep up that amps to the starter so it will flatten it until the the aux is full and then charge up the starter. Solution is wire in solar to the aux battery.
It's just that when your solar voltage drops, due to cloud, the dc-dc charger continues to charge the 2ndary, by draining your main battery. So you need a switch that's easy to use, which will disconnect dc-dc charger from main battery, so it is not drained when trying to charge from solar in cloudy/bad weather.
Your problem is lak of knowledge of electrical schematics and only that. Before you know your batteries are dead. Learn first and connect second. Your just do it the other way around. 🙄
These’s a fault with that charger, be it product or wiring fault. The alternator light is on on the dc-dc charger. That should not be on until the engine is running. That system requires proper diagnosis
Must say that I have a projecta idc25 charger and I'm not happy with it. Long story short, I had several incidences where I could not start my engine. Ended up using a jumper cable to connect the (+) from the Aux. battery to the (+) of the starter battery for around 10-15 minutes in order to start the car. Thank you for your post. Hope they make it better in the future.
Yes i thought i was going crazy, ive got clamp meters & testing at all points. Was good before i put the solar panel on the roof. I'm finding its not disconnecting the start battery.
It is a situation where if you increase the charge to the main battery, the DCDC charger senses this and starts charging the aux batteries.at its full charging output....if the DCDC charger is getting charge from the alternator..then the alternator @ 150amp will cover (keep up with the charge needed) for the a 20amp DC DC charger charging the aux battery. If you are on solar input without the alternator going.(ie camping).that solar input will trick the DCDC charger to start at a full 20amp to charge the aux battery....BUT if the solar is only putting in 4amps..the DCDC is charging at 20amps to the aux battery, you are losing net 15amp..that 15amp has to come from somewhere to make up the "gap"...guess where?...from your starter battery!..This vid does explain it a bit better...ruclips.net/video/rDXixCzg6iw/видео.html
My Kings 25amp dc dc charger has an active cable which is connected to the starter battery and has a 50amp fuse. If I remove the fuse over night, will that help stop the leakage? I have the blue wire on a piggyback fuse but still notice the struggle starting the ute in the morning.
Would adding a dual battery voltage isolator before the dcdc charger fix the problem with a small 12v battery for a scooter or kids car to run the Dcdc charger when the solar panels are being used
With my 2012 Patrol Ute, I use a Redarc SBA12(D) Smart Start Isolator for my AGM Dual Battery System. I also have a 110watt Solar Panel permanently wired into my Accessory Battery Circuit, which is set to put out a maximum of 13.1volts into the Accessory Battery Circuit. Once my Solar Panel puts out 12.7volts into the Accessories Circuit, the Redarc SBA12(D) Smart Start Isolator opens and charges both the Accessories and Starting Battery.
Strange?? My aux 100Ah AGM seemed to charge fine with the Projecta 25A DCDC charger wired with the ignition wire trigger without 'killing the starter battery'. Vehicle is a MY18 DMax with smarge alternator. I have done longer trips and weekenders albeit without solar connected. No problem with the starter battery so far. I monitor the aux battery volts periodically and the charge light indicators. Not sure what the whole point was apart from trying to confuse non-electrical people with a bunch of numbers and readings?😶
I bought a red back 120ah agm battery in 2006 I had it load tested not voltage tested by 12 volt shop in Adelaide in 2020 and it was still at 93 percent. used for Engel fridge and lights no problems. charged with blue apple charger which has been changed through 5 vehicles since new. I now have another red back battery. With the original blue apple charger with issolater Hopefully I can tell this story in another 10/15 years
I should have added if you read the directions in the Projecta booklet, it actually shows you where to position the DCDC charger - inbetween the two batterys with an input from the main battery. NOT designed to charge both battery's, only your secondary one.
I have a redarc L1240D that does This.it is faulty,,it won't shut off when the voltage drops bellow 13.4 volts and has killed two battery's. All I did was install a redarc SBI12 between the main cranking battery and the DC DC charger problem solved been going strong for over 12years.
Cant speak for the Projecta units but i have had a completely different experience with my CTEK DC-DC Charger Main idea of using them is the voltage boost over the voltage that the alternator is giving out (some capable of producing 15v+ for a desulphation stage), the ability to run differnt battery chemistries in the same system like lead acid and AGM and the 5 stage charging profile like you get from a 240v wall charger so your battery gets what it needs. The point you raised about taking power away from the starter battery for some reason, again I havnt used projecta units so I can't say for sure but that shouldn't be happening if its working correctly My CTEK dosnt drain my starter battery at all at idle and even delays charging the auxiliary battery if the starter is abit flat, I can see this happening in real time with the dual battery monitor I have in the cabin. It does consume power constantly yes but it should be less then 1ah a month if all is well which is not far off what a voltage sensitive relay will consume It would however be interesting to see the amp draw from starter to DC charger to see what it is actually consuming The solar problem is abit of a design error, I ended up fitting a dedicated controller which feeds the starter battery, this then activates the CTEK when the starter is happy and charges the auxiliary, which seams to work great
If you connect your dedicated solar controller to the starter battery, it will activate your DCDC charger. Depends on the solar charging current. If you are charging at 10A, and the DCDC charger is draining at 50A, the starter batter could be drained. In my case, I connects a dedicated controller to the auxiliary battery, leaving starter batter completely in factory stock setup.
I had this same Projecta charger (but it died on a trip at 5yrs old) and had it ignition triggered so it would only start charging about 30sec after engine start. Otherwise it may do what you showed…. I also manually disconnect my house battery from the cranking battery (trip the circuit breaker) so when I 240V wallcharger top up my cranking battery it doesn’t start DCDC charging the house battery. Just need to think about how these things work…
Run both the idc25 then idc45 and now running the idc25L on my 3 iterations of setup in my ute all with permanent mounted panels on the canopy in various forms no continuous current draw issues what so ever monitoring with a bmv712 logging it the whole lot for research being an auto elec of over 20years I've been really interested in testing units myself before putting them onto customers vehicles. Id be interested to know the issue you are having what the actual current draw is of the starter battery and if you used the ignition circuit control being its a computer controlled ("smart) alternator (especially on the late model D4D range)you can't use a VSR unit in line as we see on longer drives voltages drop to as low as 11v at the battery before the alternator cuts in for a big charge cycle. Also were is the negative from the solar and dcdc bolted to hope not directly to the starter battery as this can cause a false reading from the cars alternator control and the dcdc unit if theirs also no large negative circuit from the aux battery to the body too. I personally have surpassed fitting 250 of these over the years with only 1 every faulty which was honoured under warranty even though the customer mixed up terminals after replacing their own battery.
Hey mate I have the idc25 hooked up to smart alternator. Imstalled as per the book and my charge light stays amber, alternator green and blue flashing with the car on or off
With the Projecta on solid lights (all 3) it’s not actually charging - it suposodily in float mode . Also with solar charging it doesn’t pull anything from the crack battery mate, only does this when crank battery voltage is over a specific voltage, think it’s 12.9v (check manual). Something else is going on with why the crank is only at 12.2v. Having said that, I originally ran the Projecta dcdc and had a fair few problems with the charging and going into float mode early and float voltage was low like you are seeing. I replaced it with a redarc bcdc and it’s been absolutely solid!
Hey mate, Could I run 2 dcdc chargers? One to charge the lithium battery that I run the fridge and camp stuff off. Then the other one to charge the cranking battery?
Your review is based on your failure to wire the product properly or have a faulty unit. It's meant to isolate the starter battery once car has been turned off.
Ive got same up under banner but just different battery ~ aux battery got a deep cycle . Cannt seem to get the redarc sbi12 to charge to as close to 100 percent : should i be looking at a 130amp alternator upgrade . Not got any of the electoral units as u in the back of ur prado
My alternator light on mine ISNT on when my solar panels are connected through the solar input. Something is likely not right with the hardware or wiring
Yeah I don’t know The warring was definitely right many other people had the same problem and it worked fine sometimes in my opinion you can’t trust these electronics
@@Fourby4Diesel Recently I have disconnected all the accessories in the back and connected them to a stand alone lithium battery. Even though there should be no amp draw or very little, after 2 weeks of it sitting there the main battery and aux battery were flat. Though the main battery only just had enough juice to crank and start the engine. Am now rethinking all the wiring which was professionally installed and what I can do to aleviat this in the future.
hi check wiring twice Ignition overide wire ---connect to specific vehicle wiring ,,when engine is in running state ONLY DONOT CONNECT TO IGNTION ON / accessory WIRING Diagnosis of display light seem suspicious. Why are they all on ?? Either clamp meter or inline amp meter would prove amperage consumption far better.
I think you have been advised wrong. Go the Victron Buck boost manual and see that the buck boost will not charge without the engine on and like one of the commenters below (Ray Blackburn) has said is that you might need a solar controller to go to that battery and if your dc to dc charger does not turn off with the ignition switch you will need a relay to turn it on and off. I have a Balmer extra alternator 180 amp but its regulator will not lower the power enough with a 700 amp hour Prismatic Lithium battery so had to go Buck boost dc to dc charger. It is on a yacht.
Timely info for me, I was just looking into all of this yesterday for the Hilux I bought recently. I like the simplicity of the system on your 120. This is a great channel, even though I have a Hilux that runs on devils fuel (petrol), there's still tons of relevant info here.
All a simple fix I have a DC to DC plus fixed panels on the roof connected to to the Aux battery and I have dual battery under the bonnet of the 80 start battery is fine but not 100% Could do with replacing, between the 2 batteries under the bonnet is a Redarc SBi12 if the starter battery will no start the car flick the switch on the dash and the 2nd battery kicks in and engine starts no probs Between the start battery and the aux battery in the back running the fridge is a simple $50 200amp heavy duty continuous relay activated by Ign so when IGN off there is no power going either way between the start battery and the Aux battery. So simple and everything charges and works fine well except the start battery could do with replacing but not yet cant afford it
Best thing I ever did was get rid of all that dc-dc charger BS! Life is so much easier! They never work properly, the groups and forums are full of people trying to work them out! You'll always get that one bloke that reckons he's hasn't missed a beat for 5 years! But doesn't tell you how many batteries he's gone through! It's just not worth getting stuck out bush with dead batteries just because you're trying to run a 12 volt fridge! Bottom line is if you've got enough amp hours in your battery and quality solar you don't need it!
Can't comment on the projector, but ctek works perfectly, only charges over 13v on main battery, I suspect you have a setting or wiring wrong even though I know yih don't think you do, possibly faulty unit. There is a good reason why you want to use a dcdc charger over the diode, they have a charging sequence and optimised voltage which is different to the optimum for a led acid. Not saying diode won't work but it's just not as good on the batterys as a dcdc charger. Also FYI all the diode does is drop the signal voltage, tricking the ecu into putting out more voltage absolutely nothing special, if you want to go this way (and I have in the past when I wax being cheap) go to j car, pick up a diode for 50c (whoever can sell diodes for $50 is an absolute wizard at marketing!!!).
Great vid. I have the same Projecta DCDC in my 150. I have a second car which is a work issued daily driver so didn’t drive the prado for a few weeks. The Projecta sucked my crank battery dry resulting in me needing to buy a new one. I now don’t have the DCDC connected to the crank unless I’m going on a trip - kind of defeats the purpose. I’ll look into your 120 setup now and look to replace.
All DC to DC chargers are meant to be connected to the second battery or deep cycle battery not the crank battery. In the instructions it tells you this. Its there to charge the second battery hence why they say in the instructions to put it as close to the second battery as possible. its not there to charge the crank battery as its charged via the alternator. I have one in my Prado and have NEVER had an issue.
You have to have done something wrong or faulty unit .. You haven't got the solar going to start battery do you ..If so that's the cause right there .. My DC Dc does not do this issue at all .. Some also say do not use ignition wire unless you have a smart alternater .. That could be another issue..
The DC-DC usually had a mode to charge different battery's i.e: AGM Gel cell etc. They recommend an isolator and the DC-DC sometimes and bang there goes your customers $1500+. Agree with you Anthony, the SBI12 is the simplest and low cost for customers (Auto-Elecco here) Redarc and others suppliers always try to tell you to fit the bloody more expensive DC-DC. Cheers for the info once again. Keep the Budda booms and bangs coming 😂
All DC to DC chargers are meant to be connected to the second battery or deep cycle battery not the crank battery. In the instructions it tells you this. Its there to charge the second battery hence why they say in the instructions to put it as close to the second battery as possible. its not there to charge the crank battery as its charged via the alternator. I have one in my Prado and have NEVER had an issue. (Auto Sparky here also) The SBI12 is basically a switch between the two batteries that divides the batteries when the vehicle is off. They work ok if the two batteries are of the same make up ie both flooded lead acid crank batteries, but if one of the batteries is a deep cycle AGM under bonnet battery things change and will NOT charge them up to anywhere near 100% hence the dc to dc charger.
I was kinda lost for a moment? Yall are using auxiliary battery when the car is off im running stereo systems so i have 3 agm batteries in the back and one in the front so i just keep my car running while I'm listening to music and all of them are charging no problem
Been saying this for years myself. dcdc is mostly a gimmick. Has it's uses, but in a regular 4wd with a fridge smashing the battery. Personally run a victon VSR and victron blue solar regulator never had an issue with power. The solar can fully charge a battery no worries at all. The capability of pumping as much as the battery wants with the VSR Instead of being limited to 10-20 amps with a Dc. The wank hype with them is just ridiculous. The Victron VSR is dual sense even Only half decent one maybe the Ctek but $700 for a DC with a VSR built in is also just more wanky bull shit.
Sounds like there's an electrical problem. Ive had Dc-Dc chargers actually fix batteries that refuse to charge for what ever problem usually voltage drop over several metres .
Install error... Are you sure you connected the blue wire to an ignition source that only gets power when engine is on (not acc). Your solar panels are tricking the DC-DC to think the engine is running, so it pulls from the main battery connected the blue wire to an ignition source that only gets power when engine is on (not acc). Yo
Oh dear, somebody help this bloke! The unit is performing exactly how it's designed. I am unsure what you are so angry about? The DCDC charger will not take care of the starter battery it's not meant to. A VSR is definetly not the solution nowadays, under bonett secondaries and VSRs are old technology there are much better performing systems for modern vehicles.
Yep worked really well NOT Really angry Actually probably true but I’ve got rid of the rubbish now and now I use the solar panels with the cheap regulator that came with it and see over 14 V even when it’s cloudy the projector is rubbish
i have to turn my dc to dc charger at least 30 minutes before i stop driving! i have a switch connected where i can do that. it seems like my house batteries pull down my starter battery sometimes. its almost like my renogy dc to dc let's current pull more from my starter battery. you are exactly right!
The CTEK DS2050A will drain the starter battery to 12.8V and then cut off so no issues there. Answer: When the engine is turned off, the D250S and D250SA will continue to charge the service battery from the starting battery until the starting battery reaches a voltage level of 12.8V. Please note that this will NOT drain your starting battery, the voltage cut off level of 12.8V prevents this from happening.
Type "DC-DC CHARGER RUNAWAY DISCHARGE WARNING" into the youtube search for an explanation of what I think has happened here. Looks to me that you had a charger on the cranking battery beforehand and that triggered the alternator charging on the Projecta. Pretty much all DC-DC chargers will do this - I tested a few.
@@Fourby4Dieselso why is your alternator light on on the DCDC charger? Alternator light on means AUX battery is drawing power from main battery and sensor wire is getting input from ignition causing it to happen. You probably have the ignition on, or you have it wired wrong or the unit is faulty.
I didn’t come down in the last shower It’s wired correctly in the ignition is not on. You should check the comments in the other videos. These things are a piece of crap and they have known fault It’s happened to many people just like this.
@@Fourby4Diesel Most people it happened to it's user error, so why is the ignition/alternator light on the DC DC charger on?? Hundreds of thousands of these in use and only a handful of people reported issues, and every one I have ever seen reporting an issue has been use error.
Yeah, well it must’ve been too hard to connect a handful of wires and you must be right 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 And one of the major supplies of these units that have said they have a fault and this is what happens with years of experience must be wrong as well. Lucky we have you thanks anyway, we just came down in the last shower you were right.
The current DCDC chargers are just plain BRAIN DEAD . Lazy development . Pure and simple. It is purely obvious that the REDARC needs a "low voltage disconnect" and stop the cheap and horrific flaws they are now displaying. REDARC have just bought the cheapest Chinese garbage and rebadged it and added the 100% mark-up . No one in the right mind would "specify" this lack lustre design , so it is a cheap rrz buy in . Low act !
i found out quite a while ago that batteries can charge and discharge at the same time but they cannot charge from 2 sources simultaneously wherever the chargers are in the system. One will always detrimentally affect the other. I am still working on how to figure out why and will comment when I find out in one of your later video's. Meanwhile, you may want the review this admittedly poor quality short video. ruclips.net/video/_z1N6kYECSU/видео.html it covers battery to battery energy transfer bolstered by a little solar. TTFN
![Redarc BCDC1250D vs Enerdrive EN3DC40+ | DCDC Charger Comparison [2021]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NFYMwRAmj4E/mqdefault.jpg)
Read the instruction manual for redarc sbi12 isolator and bcdc25 dcdc charger. Specs are identical, cut in at 13.2 and cut out at 12.7. I have both these units, isolator in my Hilux and dc charger in my Prado and can confirm cranking battery voltage is still around 12.7 after leaving overnight in both vehicles. I then looked up the manual for the projector unit you have. It has 2 modes, standard (same setting as redarc) and smart alternator mode which cuts out at 11.9! This would be killing your starting battery. So long story short check ya setttings. If you want to spend money,change to the redarc. If you want certainly when buying new then get the redarc with IGN in the product number as it has a trigger wire that you connect to your ignition to turn the unit on/off manually with the engine instead of sensing battery voltage. These things should not kill you main battery if they are setup correctly.
Get rid of the Projecta.
My Redarc bcdc25 has been installed for for a couple of years with a 200Ah lithium battery, a 160W fixed solar panel and a 200W folding panel when camped. I have also never had problems with my starter battery. I also use the ignition connect.
It seems that incorrect settings and/or wiring are the cause of the problem in the video like you said.
-It should not be drawing any current from the starting battery to the aux battery with the ignition override connected to the ignition. Check that the ignition override wire does not have any voltage with the ignition off, it could be another accessory feeding some power back through the ignition with the ignition off (it may not necessarily take 12v to enable the controller). Otherwise it could be faulty unit.-
-The ignition override wire should only be used if the vehicle has a smart alternator that switches voltage when the battery is fully charged while running. I'm not sure if that prado has such an alternator or not.-
I watched the video again and I saw the 'Alternator' LED is on whilst the vehicle is switched off. That means the ignition override is incorrectly wired into the ignition switch. Check to see the ignition override wire is actually connected to the ignition switch and check the voltage with a multi meter to test it. It could be an accessory feeding power back through the ignition (it may not need 12v for the controller to enable).
This means that it will drain the starting battery to 11.9 volts when the car is switched off. Not good! You do not need to wire up the ignition override in vehicles that do not have a smart alternator that switches voltage while the car is running. I'm not sure if that prado has one or not but I'm sure you'd know.
The ignition trigger will come on when it sees a potential difference, even if it's lower on the voltage front... sounds like the solar is somehow putting voltage to the ignition trigger somewhere along the line...
A well designed dc-dc charger will look for the ripple which is left over after the full bridge rectifier and only charge when the alternator is actually running, no matter what state your battery is in, if it can't see the alternator artefacts, it won't turn on...
The DCDC charger is only designed to charge your secondary Battery from either solar or from your input from your Alternator via the primary battery. It should be placed inbetween the two battery's as it also acts as a battery isolator so when the car is not running it stops using power from the primary battery.
Out of the two inputs it will always take the solar option first. I have the same charger set up to run a 1000w inverter with a 120AH AGM deep cell battery and am very impressed with the settup. Forget using the DCDC charger to charge your main battery. It's not designed for that. That's what your alternator is for. Sounds like you have a wiring issue with your settup.
I know exactly what it’s designed to do and it’s connect up perfectly well and there’s nothing faulty about it it’s happened to other people also sometimes they randomly drain the battery I know it only charges the extra battery but went on Solar it should help the cranking battery instead of discharge it which is obvious because that’s why we’ve got it there in the first place to protect the cranking battery so we can start the engine in the morning I’m glad you are happy with yours
Woke up one morning on a camp with a dead main battery even with a dc dc charger installed, so yeah not because they say It won’t drain doesn’t mean it won’t., so I installed an inline cut off switch between my dcdc and main. So I can cut the line manually when camping then hook up the solar....happy days
I’d suggest that BCDC charger has been setup for smart alternator settings, which won’t shut off the connection from the main battery until it sees less than 12.2v. On a conventional setting, it will shut off the connection at your suggested 12.8v.
Pretty dumb then hey
@@Fourby4Diesel only as dumb as the person that installed it though
These units may be solar priority. My RedArc installed in 2021 is solar priority. So if solar panels are running in no sunlight it may drain main battery slightly. I believe i have a relay/voltage sensor and an isolator for main battery. No main battery drain and no voltage drops e = i X r. Yes a button to feed the main battery from secondary battery would be very good so i don't have to bypass. Can do the shunt method but that comes with even more problems. Smart alternator set up can cause issues. Prestige Car Mechanic since 1988. First Diesel and 4WD This year, 2021 Prado. I have found a lot of good proper and relevant information off you this year.
Thanks for your info. Ive been having troubles with my dcdc and trying to figure it all out.
What you just described makes sense. Get rid of it.
I have a Redarc DC DC 1250, 50 amp charger and have it fitted in the canopy of my Ram Truck with 2 /100 amp/ hr Lithum batteries.
It is wired correctly with ignition sensitive feed as per manufacturer requirements.
I do not have the problem which you are having while solar is charging.
Even without the ignition sensitive wire attached the unit only stays connected after the ignition is switched off when the starting battery lowers to 12.7 which is normal voltage.
I suggest you read up on these units as I feel they are great value and not the size of a family biscuit tin like some others, and made in Austraila.
It's working exactly as it says, if you don't have a smart alternator or don't want it draining to 11.9v don't connect the blue/ignition wire
I think you’re a bit confused with the operation of these units nothing should make a drain a battery that low
when you adda 240 charger to your main battery and it get over 13 v the dcdc kicks in and if your charger is only 10amp and the dcdc charger is pulling 25amp that will kiil your main.
Dunno ... I use intervolt dc dc with 260w of fixed solar winter summer 130w... 400ish ah of batteries never had an issue... systems balanced to keep depth of discharge above 80% to maintain longevity in the batteries...regardless isolate and 240v charge each battery once a month. Ps have seen some brands “running” away and glitches with charging lithium and geckos fried on boards and decapitated by fans inverters too... regardless when in a remote location I manually isolate the main / starter battery over night as a precaution against made in China or India components.
I agree, there is an issue. My solution for my Tourer build that parks outside all the time with 200 watt roof mounted solar panel that charges second deep cycle battery on solar priority from 45ampProjecta Dc to Dc too. To look after starter battery, I have a 20watt solar panel to solar controller I connect up to the starter battery to keep it 100% charged. Both batteries now get to 100% daily with vehicle parked up in drive.
The projector DC/solar without the blue wire ignition connected starts charging when it reads 13.4 volts and turns off at 12.8 volts so it does use up the float voltage on the start battery but they work fine for most cars with smart alternators they do draw a little power constantly from the start battery 20mA. The solar charge controller they have MPPT is a great leap forward older systems allowed the solar panels to draw power from the battery at night if you did not fit blocking diodes
I used a Redarc smart isolater under the bonnet between crank and spare, The crank was also connected to a Renogy dcdc with solar preference in rear of car which charged two lithium in parallel . I placed isolation switches from front to dcdc and from house out. Fixed solar on roof also switched to dcdc. I could close everything thing down when not in use. Renogy dcdc charges house, once full would charges crank and smart isolater would switch to bonnet spare, once all charged Renogy stops charging. Never had any issues. I could also press button on dash to join crank n bonnet spare to start car.
Beng yes the alternator light should not be on looks like bad wire job
Wire job is perfect
If you have ignition activated BCDC option then main battery is left along unless engine is running..
I have experienced the issue you demonstrate where the projecta seems to get confused and continue to draw from the cranking battery when the voltage has dropped below the cut off point. Unplugging all connections and re connecting fixes mine as does changing the battery type to something else and back again. It's very infrequent so not sure what triggers it.
That projector charger should not be charging from the main battery if the volts are not more than 13.4 volts and engine alternator running must be faulty or bad design.
Crap design i think
Solar panels which don't have the zenar diode built in (such as fold out solar panels), will act as a load when they are connected across a battery when the voltage produced from the solar panels is less than that of the battery it is connected to. That could be your issue.
What is your solar panels charging into? The starter battery or the auxiliary? You have a smart alternator so if your solar is going into the starter the dcdc will sense there’s charge going into the starter and trigger the dcdc charger drawing 25 amps or whatever amps the dcdc is straight into the aux battery, the solar won’t keep up that amps to the starter so it will flatten it until the the aux is full and then charge up the starter. Solution is wire in solar to the aux battery.
It's just that when your solar voltage drops, due to cloud, the dc-dc charger continues to charge the 2ndary, by draining your main battery. So you need a switch that's easy to use, which will disconnect dc-dc charger from main battery, so it is not drained when trying to charge from solar in cloudy/bad weather.
Your problem is lak of knowledge of electrical schematics and only that.
Before you know your batteries are dead. Learn first and connect second. Your just do it the other way around. 🙄
These’s a fault with that charger, be it product or wiring fault. The alternator light is on on the dc-dc charger. That should not be on until the engine is running. That system requires proper diagnosis
Exactly my dcdc cuts supply from the starter when it gets to 12.8 and rejoins at 13.1
Must say that I have a projecta idc25 charger and I'm not happy with it. Long story short, I had several incidences where I could not start my engine. Ended up using a jumper cable to connect the (+) from the Aux. battery to the (+) of the starter battery for around 10-15 minutes in order to start the car. Thank you for your post. Hope they make it better in the future.
Yes i thought i was going crazy, ive got clamp meters & testing at all points. Was good before i put the solar panel on the roof. I'm finding its not disconnecting the start battery.
It is a situation where if you increase the charge to the main battery, the DCDC charger senses this and starts charging the aux batteries.at its full charging output....if the DCDC charger is getting charge from the alternator..then the alternator @ 150amp will cover (keep up with the charge needed) for the a 20amp DC DC charger charging the aux battery. If you are on solar input without the alternator going.(ie camping).that solar input will trick the DCDC charger to start at a full 20amp to charge the aux battery....BUT if the solar is only putting in 4amps..the DCDC is charging at 20amps to the aux battery, you are losing net 15amp..that 15amp has to come from somewhere to make up the "gap"...guess where?...from your starter battery!..This vid does explain it a bit better...ruclips.net/video/rDXixCzg6iw/видео.html
I think that’s what’s going on with mine
My Kings 25amp dc dc charger has an active cable which is connected to the starter battery and has a 50amp fuse. If I remove the fuse over night, will that help stop the leakage? I have the blue wire on a piggyback fuse but still notice the struggle starting the ute in the morning.
Thank you for your R&T. Sounds like you have just found the electric catchcan.....Love learning from these videos. Thanks
Would adding a dual battery voltage isolator before the dcdc charger fix the problem with a small 12v battery for a scooter or kids car to run the Dcdc charger when the solar panels are being used
Also that Dcdc charger has a trigger for a smart alternator you can use this to turn off the drain from the main battery when the ignition is off
You can get twin sense VSR. Solar reg going to aux battery and then starts charging your start also.
With my 2012 Patrol Ute, I use a Redarc SBA12(D) Smart Start Isolator for my AGM Dual Battery System. I also have a 110watt Solar Panel permanently wired into my Accessory Battery Circuit, which is set to put out a maximum of 13.1volts into the Accessory Battery Circuit.
Once my Solar Panel puts out 12.7volts into the Accessories Circuit, the Redarc SBA12(D) Smart Start Isolator opens and charges both the Accessories and Starting Battery.
Great video mate , i have had this problem for a while with my i tech one. It is killing my crank battery
I'm having I similar issue with the itech 40amp what did you do to sort change brands?
@@carso741 Same issue here, did you fix it?
Strange?? My aux 100Ah AGM seemed to charge fine with the Projecta 25A DCDC charger wired with the ignition wire trigger without 'killing the starter battery'. Vehicle is a MY18 DMax with smarge alternator. I have done longer trips and weekenders albeit without solar connected. No problem with the starter battery so far. I monitor the aux battery volts periodically and the charge light indicators. Not sure what the whole point was apart from trying to confuse non-electrical people with a bunch of numbers and readings?😶
I bought a red back 120ah agm battery in 2006 I had it load tested not voltage tested by 12 volt shop in Adelaide in 2020 and it was still at 93 percent. used for Engel fridge and lights no problems. charged with blue apple charger which has been changed through 5 vehicles since new. I now have another red back battery. With the original blue apple charger with issolater Hopefully I can tell this story in another 10/15 years
I should have added if you read the directions in the Projecta booklet, it actually shows you where to position the DCDC charger - inbetween the two batterys with an input from the main battery. NOT designed to charge both battery's, only your secondary one.
As I keep saying I didn’t come down in the last shower where do you think it is and where do you think it’s connected to ha ha ha ha funny guy
I have a redarc L1240D that does This.it is faulty,,it won't shut off when the voltage drops bellow 13.4 volts and has killed two battery's. All I did was install a redarc SBI12 between the main cranking battery and the DC DC charger problem solved been going strong for over 12years.
Is this only a problem with the solar panels connected or is it drawing power full time?
Cant speak for the Projecta units but i have had a completely different experience with my CTEK DC-DC Charger
Main idea of using them is the voltage boost over the voltage that the alternator is giving out (some capable of producing 15v+ for a desulphation stage), the ability to run differnt battery chemistries in the same system like lead acid and AGM and the 5 stage charging profile like you get from a 240v wall charger so your battery gets what it needs.
The point you raised about taking power away from the starter battery for some reason, again I havnt used projecta units so I can't say for sure but that shouldn't be happening if its working correctly
My CTEK dosnt drain my starter battery at all at idle and even delays charging the auxiliary battery if the starter is abit flat, I can see this happening in real time with the dual battery monitor I have in the cabin. It does consume power constantly yes but it should be less then 1ah a month if all is well which is not far off what a voltage sensitive relay will consume
It would however be interesting to see the amp draw from starter to DC charger to see what it is actually consuming
The solar problem is abit of a design error, I ended up fitting a dedicated controller which feeds the starter battery, this then activates the CTEK when the starter is happy and charges the auxiliary, which seams to work great
If you connect your dedicated solar controller to the starter battery, it will activate your DCDC charger. Depends on the solar charging current. If you are charging at 10A, and the DCDC charger is draining at 50A, the starter batter could be drained. In my case, I connects a dedicated controller to the auxiliary battery, leaving starter batter completely in factory stock setup.
I had this same Projecta charger (but it died on a trip at 5yrs old) and had it ignition triggered so it would only start charging about 30sec after engine start. Otherwise it may do what you showed…. I also manually disconnect my house battery from the cranking battery (trip the circuit breaker) so when I 240V wallcharger top up my cranking battery it doesn’t start DCDC charging the house battery. Just need to think about how these things work…
Avoid chinese dcdc chargers altogether, had numerous branded ones and all failed
Interesting, would be good to see results from other brands to see if they are the same or different
Run both the idc25 then idc45 and now running the idc25L on my 3 iterations of setup in my ute all with permanent mounted panels on the canopy in various forms no continuous current draw issues what so ever monitoring with a bmv712 logging it the whole lot for research being an auto elec of over 20years I've been really interested in testing units myself before putting them onto customers vehicles. Id be interested to know the issue you are having what the actual current draw is of the starter battery and if you used the ignition circuit control being its a computer controlled ("smart) alternator (especially on the late model D4D range)you can't use a VSR unit in line as we see on longer drives voltages drop to as low as 11v at the battery before the alternator cuts in for a big charge cycle. Also were is the negative from the solar and dcdc bolted to hope not directly to the starter battery as this can cause a false reading from the cars alternator control and the dcdc unit if theirs also no large negative circuit from the aux battery to the body too. I personally have surpassed fitting 250 of these over the years with only 1 every faulty which was honoured under warranty even though the customer mixed up terminals after replacing their own battery.
Hey mate I have the idc25 hooked up to smart alternator. Imstalled as per the book and my charge light stays amber, alternator green and blue flashing with the car on or off
Should still have a auto isolator between the start battery and the dc dc charger. It can't drop if it's isolated
With the Projecta on solid lights (all 3) it’s not actually charging - it suposodily in float mode . Also with solar charging it doesn’t pull anything from the crack battery mate, only does this when crank battery voltage is over a specific voltage, think it’s 12.9v (check manual). Something else is going on with why the crank is only at 12.2v. Having said that, I originally ran the Projecta dcdc and had a fair few problems with the charging and going into float mode early and float voltage was low like you are seeing. I replaced it with a redarc bcdc and it’s been absolutely solid!
But it is
Hey mate,
Could I run 2 dcdc chargers? One to charge the lithium battery that I run the fridge and camp stuff off. Then the other one to charge the cranking battery?
4:30 the information
Your review is based on your failure to wire the product properly or have a faulty unit. It's meant to isolate the starter battery once car has been turned off.
It usually does but not always particularly when soul is plugged in common fault with the software on these units that’s the point
Ive connected the blue wire off the sbi12 to switch in cab to start ute off aux battery if my crank battery was flat or below 11v
Ive got same up under banner but just different battery ~ aux battery got a deep cycle . Cannt seem to get the redarc sbi12 to charge to as close to 100 percent : should i be looking at a 130amp alternator upgrade . Not got any of the electoral units as u in the back of ur prado
It feeds both circuit so not enough solar will drain the start mmm not good needs a diode fitted.
Yep not good
My alternator light on mine ISNT on when my solar panels are connected through the solar input. Something is likely not right with the hardware or wiring
Yeah I don’t know The warring was definitely right many other people had the same problem and it worked fine sometimes in my opinion you can’t trust these electronics
I am having a similar issue with my Redarc DCDC charger. After a week running solar on my Aux batt my starter is drained down.
Which leads me to believe this is a possibility not isolated to projecta alone
@@Fourby4Diesel Recently I have disconnected all the accessories in the back and connected them to a stand alone lithium battery. Even though there should be no amp draw or very little, after 2 weeks of it sitting there the main battery and aux battery were flat. Though the main battery only just had enough juice to crank and start the engine. Am now rethinking all the wiring which was professionally installed and what I can do to aleviat this in the future.
Also this is with solar disconnected.
What is the whole point of those dc-dc chargers? Are they sold to poeople to charge batteries faster or what purpose are they for?
For greedy companies to make money is the majority
hi
check wiring twice
Ignition overide wire ---connect to specific vehicle wiring ,,when engine is in running state ONLY
DONOT CONNECT TO IGNTION ON / accessory WIRING
Diagnosis of display light seem suspicious. Why are they all on ??
Either clamp meter or inline amp meter would prove amperage consumption far better.
I think you have been advised wrong. Go the Victron Buck boost manual and see that the buck boost will not charge without the engine on and like one of the commenters below (Ray Blackburn) has said is that you might need a solar controller to go to that battery and if your dc to dc charger does not turn off with the ignition switch you will need a relay to turn it on and off. I have a Balmer extra alternator 180 amp but its regulator will not lower the power enough with a 700 amp hour Prismatic Lithium battery so had to go Buck boost dc to dc charger. It is on a yacht.
Timely info for me, I was just looking into all of this yesterday for the Hilux I bought recently. I like the simplicity of the system on your 120. This is a great channel, even though I have a Hilux that runs on devils fuel (petrol), there's still tons of relevant info here.
All a simple fix I have a DC to DC plus fixed panels on the roof connected to to the Aux battery and I have dual battery under the bonnet of the 80 start battery is fine but not 100% Could do with replacing, between the 2 batteries under the bonnet is a Redarc SBi12 if the starter battery will no start the car flick the switch on the dash and the 2nd battery kicks in and engine starts no probs
Between the start battery and the aux battery in the back running the fridge is a simple $50 200amp heavy duty continuous relay activated by Ign so when IGN off there is no power going either way between the start battery and the Aux battery. So simple and everything charges and works fine well except the start battery could do with replacing but not yet cant afford it
what voltage does a fully charged battery read at? and what is the dcdc charger set at before change over to aux battery
Best thing I ever did was get rid of all that dc-dc charger BS! Life is so much easier! They never work properly, the groups and forums are full of people trying to work them out! You'll always get that one bloke that reckons he's hasn't missed a beat for 5 years! But doesn't tell you how many batteries he's gone through!
It's just not worth getting stuck out bush with dead batteries just because you're trying to run a 12 volt fridge! Bottom line is if you've got enough amp hours in your battery and quality solar you don't need it!
Mine is doing the same now only now I put solar on run good for 3 years without solar
Does not happen with redarc ctek ot victron U have all of them in my rigds
Redarc drains without the solar input
Can't comment on the projector, but ctek works perfectly, only charges over 13v on main battery, I suspect you have a setting or wiring wrong even though I know yih don't think you do, possibly faulty unit.
There is a good reason why you want to use a dcdc charger over the diode, they have a charging sequence and optimised voltage which is different to the optimum for a led acid. Not saying diode won't work but it's just not as good on the batterys as a dcdc charger. Also FYI all the diode does is drop the signal voltage, tricking the ecu into putting out more voltage absolutely nothing special, if you want to go this way (and I have in the past when I wax being cheap) go to j car, pick up a diode for 50c (whoever can sell diodes for $50 is an absolute wizard at marketing!!!).
If you’re already using a dcdc charger can you add a sbi12 ? Basically just want the sbi for the jump start option
Yep
Gettn exe
Great vid. I have the same Projecta DCDC in my 150. I have a second car which is a work issued daily driver so didn’t drive the prado for a few weeks. The Projecta sucked my crank battery dry resulting in me needing to buy a new one. I now don’t have the DCDC connected to the crank unless I’m going on a trip - kind of defeats the purpose. I’ll look into your 120 setup now and look to replace.
All DC to DC chargers are meant to be connected to the second battery or deep cycle battery not the crank battery. In the instructions it tells you this. Its there to charge the second battery hence why they say in the instructions to put it as close to the second battery as possible. its not there to charge the crank battery as its charged via the alternator. I have one in my Prado and have NEVER had an issue.
You have to have done something wrong or faulty unit .. You haven't got the solar going to start battery do you ..If so that's the cause right there .. My DC Dc does not do this issue at all .. Some also say do not use ignition wire unless you have a smart alternater .. That could be another issue..
Dc converter is bi-directional use a diode
I had a yellow optima for 14 years used for fridge.
Dual battery 101.... Charge and protect start battery.
Yeah, Nova Caravans lock me into projecta systems, I wanted Redarc but was denied . .
The DC-DC usually had a mode to charge different battery's i.e: AGM Gel cell etc. They recommend an isolator and the DC-DC sometimes and bang there goes your customers $1500+.
Agree with you Anthony, the SBI12 is the simplest and low cost for customers (Auto-Elecco here) Redarc and others suppliers always try to tell you to fit the bloody more expensive DC-DC. Cheers for the info once again. Keep the Budda booms and bangs coming 😂
All DC to DC chargers are meant to be connected to the second battery or deep cycle battery not the crank battery. In the instructions it tells you this. Its there to charge the second battery hence why they say in the instructions to put it as close to the second battery as possible. its not there to charge the crank battery as its charged via the alternator. I have one in my Prado and have NEVER had an issue. (Auto Sparky here also) The SBI12 is basically a switch between the two batteries that divides the batteries when the vehicle is off. They work ok if the two batteries are of the same make up ie both flooded lead acid crank batteries, but if one of the batteries is a deep cycle AGM under bonnet battery things change and will NOT charge them up to anywhere near 100% hence the dc to dc charger.
Moral of the story don’t buy Projecta shit. My Redarc doesn’t do this, granted I’ve hooked up the trigger wire.
My trigger wire might b the issue with this crap
I was kinda lost for a moment? Yall are using auxiliary battery when the car is off im running stereo systems so i have 3 agm batteries in the back and one in the front so i just keep my car running while I'm listening to music and all of them are charging no problem
there must be an issue the dc to dc can and dose charge both batteries at once
Who wired this up ?
Does the solar panel have a built in controller and is it doubled with the built in controller on the projecta?
Been saying this for years myself. dcdc is mostly a gimmick. Has it's uses, but in a regular 4wd with a fridge smashing the battery.
Personally run a victon VSR and victron blue solar regulator never had an issue with power. The solar can fully charge a battery no worries at all. The capability of pumping as much as the battery wants with the VSR Instead of being limited to 10-20 amps with a Dc.
The wank hype with them is just ridiculous.
The Victron VSR is dual sense even
Only half decent one maybe the Ctek but $700 for a DC with a VSR built in is also just more wanky bull shit.
😂😂😂 Dcdc is doing 💯 what it’s meant to do!
What have you got on it ?
Sounds like there's an electrical problem. Ive had Dc-Dc chargers actually fix batteries that refuse to charge for what ever problem usually voltage drop over several metres .
Install error... Are you sure you connected the blue wire to an ignition source that only gets power when engine is on (not acc). Your solar panels are tricking the DC-DC to think the engine is running, so it pulls from the main battery connected the blue wire to an ignition source that only gets power when engine is on (not acc). Yo
It’s not an install error everything was connected perfectly check the comments there’s other people that have had the same problem just randomly
Put a trickle charge on the main battery
Oh dear, somebody help this bloke!
The unit is performing exactly how it's designed. I am unsure what you are so angry about? The DCDC charger will not take care of the starter battery it's not meant to. A VSR is definetly not the solution nowadays, under bonett secondaries and VSRs are old technology there are much better performing systems for modern vehicles.
Yep worked really well NOT
Really angry Actually probably true but I’ve got rid of the rubbish now and now I use the solar panels with the cheap regulator that came with it and see over 14 V even when it’s cloudy the projector is rubbish
i have to turn my dc to dc charger at least 30 minutes before i stop driving! i have a switch connected where i can do that. it seems like my house batteries pull down my starter battery sometimes. its almost like my renogy dc to dc let's current pull more from my starter battery. you are exactly right!
Only really need DCDC charging for lithium
Diff Breather????
Where did you get 12.8 Volts from ? Come on ! 12.5 is realistic .
The CTEK DS2050A will drain the starter battery to 12.8V and then cut off so no issues there.
Answer: When the engine is turned off, the D250S and D250SA will continue to charge the service battery from the starting battery until the starting battery reaches a voltage level of 12.8V. Please note that this will NOT drain your starting battery, the voltage cut off level of 12.8V prevents this from happening.
Get a Red Arc..problem solved
Type "DC-DC CHARGER RUNAWAY DISCHARGE WARNING" into the youtube search for an explanation of what I think has happened here. Looks to me that you had a charger on the cranking battery beforehand and that triggered the alternator charging on the Projecta. Pretty much all DC-DC chargers will do this - I tested a few.
Literally watched that one before this video... seems to be very similar situations
You have it wired incorrectly, that is not how a dcdc charger works.
You have your comments incorrect
@@Fourby4Dieselso why is your alternator light on on the DCDC charger? Alternator light on means AUX battery is drawing power from main battery and sensor wire is getting input from ignition causing it to happen. You probably have the ignition on, or you have it wired wrong or the unit is faulty.
I didn’t come down in the last shower
It’s wired correctly in the ignition is not on. You should check the comments in the other videos. These things are a piece of crap and they have known fault It’s happened to many people just like this.
@@Fourby4Diesel Most people it happened to it's user error, so why is the ignition/alternator light on the DC DC charger on?? Hundreds of thousands of these in use and only a handful of people reported issues, and every one I have ever seen reporting an issue has been use error.
Yeah, well it must’ve been too hard to connect a handful of wires and you must be right
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
And one of the major supplies of these units that have said they have a fault and this is what happens with years of experience must be wrong as well. Lucky we have you thanks anyway, we just came down in the last shower you were right.
Sounds like you are surprised by everything 😮
Was going to comment but many within this stream got it right.
That’s right plenty of people who had the same problem
Reckon your own battery was charged right up when you did this post...(*:^)=====
Gee that was tiring. If you spend the coin you get what you want.
i like it! thanks
Idolator that's all you need to protect from this happening
Traxide ftw
Good product
The current DCDC chargers are just plain BRAIN DEAD . Lazy development . Pure and simple.
It is purely obvious that the REDARC needs a "low voltage disconnect" and stop the cheap and horrific flaws they are now displaying.
REDARC have just bought the cheapest Chinese garbage and rebadged it and added the 100% mark-up . No one in the right mind would "specify" this lack lustre design , so it is a cheap rrz buy in . Low act !
RTFM issue😂
i found out quite a while ago that batteries can charge and discharge at the same time but they cannot charge from 2 sources simultaneously wherever the chargers are in the system. One will always detrimentally affect the other. I am still working on how to figure out why and will comment when I find out in one of your later video's. Meanwhile, you may want the review this admittedly poor quality short video. ruclips.net/video/_z1N6kYECSU/видео.html it covers battery to battery energy transfer bolstered by a little solar. TTFN
dual alternators, one that is dedicated primary & secondary for auxiliary solves this. Probably not a cost effective option.
get a c tek mate
No dcdc needed