@@KollynJ been holding up great! Like a new tranny still. Been about 3,000 or so miles since…. It’s not my daily, but I have driven it to work for a week which is 40 miles each way… been absolutely amazing!
Thank you for your help. I got a p1870 code, also when the tranny gets heated up I get a heavy jerk from 1 -2 gear. All other gears are fine. When the tranny cools down it doesn’t happen. I understand that this might help with that. Just wanted your thoughts. Thanks take care god bless.
I'm having the same symptoms as stated above. 2000 gmc sierra 1500 with 156k miles. After a longer period on the highway today I started having a harsh 1-2 shift when stopping through towns on the way home, scanned and found the P1870. Will this kit be effective at remedying the issue?
I have a 1994 which I have heard is NON PWM and should not worry about converting this valve? My transmission fuse blew when the weather was really hot. So I am getting ready to drop the pan and replace the Master wiring harness with switches and solenoids.
I finall started my first swap. 03' Crown Vic Police Interceptor Ls3/4L80. Im only doing the Ls3 cause i found a Ls3 block cheap. Otherwise it would be a 6.0L. Lol. I dropped the block off last week to the machine shop to get honed or bored. Not sure yet waiting to hear from them to see which. I already had a 40k mile crank and Gen 4 rods and pretty much everything, but the block and heads. It was from a 20q2 Ly6 6.0. Even the accessory braket, intake everything. I still need to grab a set of heads for it. I watch your whole swap. Just curious how its doin.
Glad to hear you got your swap started. Funny you asked about the mustang, I just got a bunch of parts in this week for the turbo setup, so there should be a video soon as I have time to work on it.
Hell yea, glad to hear. I'll be on the lookout. I'm going to run both the Ford and Gm fuse box and ECU the way you did that way Everything still works on my car. I'm pulling the harness from my Vic so I can depin it and make it a stand-alone setup so my factory gauges will still work. I've got it figured to where I believe the volt,oil, temp, and fuel level gauges will work. Just have to figure out me speedo. Prob have to go GPS. I'm going to hook up the VSS out from the 4L80 to the input on my Ford ECU and see what happens. I want to build a sleeper, so I want her to look stockish. ISH, lol.
Will this cause the transmission to drop out of overdrive when lightly letting off the throttle and when I touch the brake pedal it will shift it back into overdrive. 97 gmc jimmy 4 wheel drive 107,000 miles any input will help please thank you I have a video of this happening
As far as I know, hitting the brake will disengage the torque converter, as will letting completely off the gas pedal. As soon as the gas pedal is reapplied, it should re-engage (or lock) the torque converter (assuming you are moving fast enough). I am not sure if the locking and unlocking of the torque converter is what you are considering overdrive, but technically 4th gear is overdrive because the ratio in the transmission is less than one, hence you are going past drive (one to one ratio).
I have seen but not tried flipping the valve myself, but if you can get the valve out this way I don't see why you could not do that. I personally prefer the new valve with the o rings completely sealing and blocking the pwm.
You have to bend the ends of the clip before you can open it to push it out. Takes two hands. I did not take the valve body out to remove it just to put it back on to trick everyone (also, there are many others that have been successful in the comments doing it).
Thanks for posting this video. I spent a tremendous time with this problem over several months, during which time, I had ordered this part and returned it. My main issue with it was that it comes with a rubber seal. If someone is planning to keep the truck for just a few years, now problem, but if the truck is a keeper for the long run... ...then this rubber seal is a major concern to me, as some day it will start deteriorating and thereby sending micro particles in all the other valves. By the way, the rubber seal did not even fit properly. It was far too big. Yes, I could bring it through the outer bore, but it would have to pass other sharp edged bores, where it would be potentially cut up. So verification that this seal is not cut up during install is THE MAIN REASON for not doing this on the car. In fact, I think doing this on the car is taking chances. Again, once these rubber parts start floating around the valve body, all bets are off.
I understand what you are saying about the sharp edges damaging the O-rings on install, but this transmission has been in a truck for about 6k miles as of now and if functioning perfectly. I don't see the o rings being a problem with deteriorating. There are other parts in the transmission that have o rings, and they do not seem to fail over time. Also, this new valve does not move inside the bore like the old one did, it is more of a stationary blocker, so the o rings should not wear over time.
@@ark2002 Thank you for your response. Sorry, I may not have expressed my point well in my prior reply. When you insert this unit into the bore, it has to first pass the sharp edges of the outer bore, then before it is seated in its final position, it has to pass several more sharp edges and their corresponding inner bores. So there is no way this O-Ring will not be torn up to at least some degree during installation and left with damage. Hence my subsequent degradation worries, even if the install was successful in terms of blocking function. As a result, I would be particularly worried installing this without removal of the valve body, as then there is not even a way what so ever to monitor the extent of damage that the O-Ring has sustained during install. Reality was such, that I have the most super carefully and greased up installed this unit with the valve body removed. However, upon install, my sentiment was instant regret. Because, subsequently I had hard time taking it out. After taking it out, I was hawkishly looking for left over debris or other damage of the bores and meticulously cleaned everything. Another thing that I like to point out about PWM deleting/blocking, are the differences in TCC clutches to begin with. This may not be well known. It has been covered only in a few GMT400 threads. Apparently, the clutch material in TCC prior to PWM lockup was DIFFERENT. According to same forums, the clutch material of new PWM TCC generation is not compatible with the resulting instant/harsh engagement of PWM delete/block. How much of that is true in the long term remains to be seen. All I can say for now that I have read this often enough to be concerned about it. To counter that same argument, or what speaks against this angle, is that in his videos, Richard @ Precision Transmission seems to be deleting/blocking all of his 4L60 builds. And Richard is a real pro. Still, I have watched enough of his videos to have some remaining doubt about even if he knows for sure about the long term. That is not to say that I know more than him; hell no. But I do say that generally speaking it HAS TO BE very difficult for ANY shop to reliably judge emerging LONG TERM patterns, WITHOUT EXACTLY and VERIFIABLY knowing how well the customer has treated or used their vehicles. Especially, since it takes years or decades for such emerging long term patterns to manifest themselves to begin with. Long story short, I would err on the side of caution when deleting/blocking PWM systems. In fact that is the route what I have chosen, leaving the PWM intact while rebuilding other parts.
@@mrtopcat2I been watching his channel I have to do this myself but I’m buying a rebuilt vavle body with this already done to it cause I need a new gasket for the vavle body and the plate
I totally understand what you are saying, but for my case I was fighting PWM issues with this truck for months, I have now done about 9k miles since this "patch" and have been extremely happy with the results. Solid TCC lockup every time, no slipping, this truck tows trailers often and it has reduced the amount of heat generated in the transmission dramatically. As for longevity, the PWM system is well known to have problems, I think this solution will outlast the lifespan of something going wrong with the unnecessary PWM. Also should note that this was a $500 junkyard transmission behind a 2600stall torque converter on a truck with big tires and I am not nice to it when I drive, so if it dies, it dies, I will just go get another. But as of now it seems to be doing great.
ok i see there is 2 different styles, one with what looks like a nipple on the end and 1 that dont how do you no wich one I need mine is a 2000 silverado
Have to force it, use lots of trans fluid, dont cut those o-rings on valve body. I did it 3 times, about 1/2 inch each time. 3rd time it seated, but was tight. Lots of trans fluid helps lube o-rings.
This still took me 4.5 hrs laying on my back in the driveway. I just suggest to everyone you get the new valve body and separator plate gaskets and some trans gel for the check balls......
Yes, it would be much easier on a bench, but taking the valve body off introduces a lot of other places to make errors when re-assembling and if not careful can cause major damage to the transmission. This is the simplest and least likely way to avoid damaging anything else.
Doesn't seem to be causing any problems, this is similar to how the how the previous non pwm transmissions worked, they were just on/off with the converter lockup.
Made a very quick and simple job out of a job that could have been a nightmare. My truck is back on the road!!! Thanks for the video!
Glad to help!
How’s it holding up how many miles since ?
@@KollynJ been holding up great! Like a new tranny still. Been about 3,000 or so miles since…. It’s not my daily, but I have driven it to work for a week which is 40 miles each way… been absolutely amazing!
What is the part number for a 2000 s10?
@@KollynJ welp… she finally went…. No forward gears at all. $3,600 for pull, rebuild, reinstall
Thank you for your help. I got a p1870 code, also when the tranny gets heated up I get a heavy jerk from 1 -2 gear. All other gears are fine. When the tranny cools down it doesn’t happen. I understand that this might help with that. Just wanted your thoughts. Thanks take care god bless.
I have the same exact issue. Debating on doing this or replacing the valvebody with a sonnax updated model...
What did you guys find out?
@@KollynJI am interested as well. I have having all the same symptoms. I my truck drives awesome apart from the converter not locking up.
I have same problem with 4l80e after driving on highway it'll jerk on 1-2 shift some time on 2-3 shift
I'm having the same symptoms as stated above. 2000 gmc sierra 1500 with 156k miles. After a longer period on the highway today I started having a harsh 1-2 shift when stopping through towns on the way home, scanned and found the P1870. Will this kit be effective at remedying the issue?
Thanks for making this video. I’m getting ready to tackle this project
I have a 1994 which I have heard is NON PWM and should not worry about converting this valve? My transmission fuse blew when the weather was really hot. So I am getting ready to drop the pan and replace the Master wiring harness with switches and solenoids.
I do not think the 94 has this pwm valve, I think it started around 96, but I'd double-check to make sure.
Correct 94 did not have a PMW TCC, you don’t have to worry about that.
Did it give you a code for blown tranny fuse?
Do you leave the spring out to install the new valve or not?
Did mine the hard way 3 years ago. Couldnt get clip out, had to remove valve body. Now have 1860 code time for round 2.
What caused that code?
Wow! Thank you for this tip! (And the 10k update)
Did you put the spring back in with the new valve
No need for the spring with the new valve, as the new valve no longer moves, it is essentially a block-off valve.
I finall started my first swap. 03' Crown Vic Police Interceptor Ls3/4L80. Im only doing the Ls3 cause i found a Ls3 block cheap. Otherwise it would be a 6.0L. Lol. I dropped the block off last week to the machine shop to get honed or bored. Not sure yet waiting to hear from them to see which. I already had a 40k mile crank and Gen 4 rods and pretty much everything, but the block and heads. It was from a 20q2 Ly6 6.0. Even the accessory braket, intake everything. I still need to grab a set of heads for it. I watch your whole swap. Just curious how its doin.
Glad to hear you got your swap started. Funny you asked about the mustang, I just got a bunch of parts in this week for the turbo setup, so there should be a video soon as I have time to work on it.
Hell yea, glad to hear. I'll be on the lookout. I'm going to run both the Ford and Gm fuse box and ECU the way you did that way Everything still works on my car. I'm pulling the harness from my Vic so I can depin it and make it a stand-alone setup so my factory gauges will still work. I've got it figured to where I believe the volt,oil, temp, and fuel level gauges will work. Just have to figure out me speedo. Prob have to go GPS. I'm going to hook up the VSS out from the 4L80 to the input on my Ford ECU and see what happens. I want to build a sleeper, so I want her to look stockish. ISH, lol.
Do i put back onn old spring with new valve?
No need for the spring with the new valve, as the new valve no longer moves, it is essentially a blockoff valve.
The little oring is loose in my package, does it just go on the “shaft”? Like the one in your package?
Do I need to buy this or can I just flip the existing valve around as others have mentioned
I redid the entire transmission and still 1860 code it’s on the truck side any ideas?
Will this cause the transmission to drop out of overdrive when lightly letting off the throttle and when I touch the brake pedal it will shift it back into overdrive. 97 gmc jimmy 4 wheel drive 107,000 miles any input will help please thank you I have a video of this happening
As far as I know, hitting the brake will disengage the torque converter, as will letting completely off the gas pedal. As soon as the gas pedal is reapplied, it should re-engage (or lock) the torque converter (assuming you are moving fast enough). I am not sure if the locking and unlocking of the torque converter is what you are considering overdrive, but technically 4th gear is overdrive because the ratio in the transmission is less than one, hence you are going past drive (one to one ratio).
Can you do this same thing without a new valve and just flip it around and move the check ball or does that ethos include dropping valve body
I have seen but not tried flipping the valve myself, but if you can get the valve out this way I don't see why you could not do that. I personally prefer the new valve with the o rings completely sealing and blocking the pwm.
Well I've been prying on mine for 2 days and I'm starting to think it's impossible to get it out that way
It's funny that you didn't do it on video
You have to bend the ends of the clip before you can open it to push it out. Takes two hands. I did not take the valve body out to remove it just to put it back on to trick everyone (also, there are many others that have been successful in the comments doing it).
His method works just fine. Next time put your purse down and you might have better luck
The transmission of my 95 Silverado shift hard when I put it in gear it kicks hard and from 1 to 2 it shift hard
La mía hace lo mismo pero solo cuando corre durante más de una hora pero si lo apago y prendo, vuelve a la normalidad a que cres tu que se deba
Forward accumulator and 1-2 accumulator sticking is my best uneducated guess.
Replace the TPS sensor on the throttle body. Had same issue on my 1995 Suburban 5.7 tbi and now trans shifts like butter.
la mia hace lo mismo> que era lo que tenia la tuya. la pudistes arreglar@@ulisesreyesruiz5021
Thanks for posting this video. I spent a tremendous time with this problem over several months, during which time, I had ordered this part and returned it. My main issue with it was that it comes with a rubber seal. If someone is planning to keep the truck for just a few years, now problem, but if the truck is a keeper for the long run...
...then this rubber seal is a major concern to me, as some day it will start deteriorating and thereby sending micro particles in all the other valves.
By the way, the rubber seal did not even fit properly. It was far too big. Yes, I could bring it through the outer bore, but it would have to pass other sharp edged bores, where it would be potentially cut up. So verification that this seal is not cut up during install is THE MAIN REASON for not doing this on the car. In fact, I think doing this on the car is taking chances. Again, once these rubber parts start floating around the valve body, all bets are off.
I understand what you are saying about the sharp edges damaging the O-rings on install, but this transmission has been in a truck for about 6k miles as of now and if functioning perfectly. I don't see the o rings being a problem with deteriorating. There are other parts in the transmission that have o rings, and they do not seem to fail over time. Also, this new valve does not move inside the bore like the old one did, it is more of a stationary blocker, so the o rings should not wear over time.
@@ark2002 Thank you for your response. Sorry, I may not have expressed my point well in my prior reply.
When you insert this unit into the bore, it has to first pass the sharp edges of the outer bore, then before it is seated in its final position, it has to pass several more sharp edges and their corresponding inner bores. So there is no way this O-Ring will not be torn up to at least some degree during installation and left with damage. Hence my subsequent degradation worries, even if the install was successful in terms of blocking function. As a result, I would be particularly worried installing this without removal of the valve body, as then there is not even a way what so ever to monitor the extent of damage that the O-Ring has sustained during install. Reality was such, that I have the most super carefully and greased up installed this unit with the valve body removed. However, upon install, my sentiment was instant regret. Because, subsequently I had hard time taking it out. After taking it out, I was hawkishly looking for left over debris or other damage of the bores and meticulously cleaned everything.
Another thing that I like to point out about PWM deleting/blocking, are the differences in TCC clutches to begin with. This may not be well known. It has been covered only in a few GMT400 threads. Apparently, the clutch material in TCC prior to PWM lockup was DIFFERENT. According to same forums, the clutch material of new PWM TCC generation is not compatible with the resulting instant/harsh engagement of PWM delete/block. How much of that is true in the long term remains to be seen. All I can say for now that I have read this often enough to be concerned about it.
To counter that same argument, or what speaks against this angle, is that in his videos, Richard @ Precision Transmission seems to be deleting/blocking all of his 4L60 builds. And Richard is a real pro. Still, I have watched enough of his videos to have some remaining doubt about even if he knows for sure about the long term. That is not to say that I know more than him; hell no. But I do say that generally speaking it HAS TO BE very difficult for ANY shop to reliably judge emerging LONG TERM patterns, WITHOUT EXACTLY and VERIFIABLY knowing how well the customer has treated or used their vehicles. Especially, since it takes years or decades for such emerging long term patterns to manifest themselves to begin with.
Long story short, I would err on the side of caution when deleting/blocking PWM systems. In fact that is the route what I have chosen, leaving the PWM intact while rebuilding other parts.
A very well thought out commentary and analysis, especially about the difficulty in tracking the long term reliability of such a mod.@@mrtopcat2
@@mrtopcat2I been watching his channel I have to do this myself but I’m buying a rebuilt vavle body with this already done to it cause I need a new gasket for the vavle body and the plate
I totally understand what you are saying, but for my case I was fighting PWM issues with this truck for months, I have now done about 9k miles since this "patch" and have been extremely happy with the results. Solid TCC lockup every time, no slipping, this truck tows trailers often and it has reduced the amount of heat generated in the transmission dramatically. As for longevity, the PWM system is well known to have problems, I think this solution will outlast the lifespan of something going wrong with the unnecessary PWM. Also should note that this was a $500 junkyard transmission behind a 2600stall torque converter on a truck with big tires and I am not nice to it when I drive, so if it dies, it dies, I will just go get another. But as of now it seems to be doing great.
ok i see there is 2 different styles, one with what looks like a nipple on the end and 1 that dont how do you no wich one I need mine is a 2000 silverado
My new tcc valve doesnt fit all the way in. Any ideas?
Have to force it, use lots of trans fluid, dont cut those o-rings on valve body. I did it 3 times, about 1/2 inch each time. 3rd time it seated, but was tight. Lots of trans fluid helps lube o-rings.
How is your stang doing with the Ls swap brother?
Pretty certain my torque converter is on. It'll stall the engine when I put it in gear so we'll try this before it goes to the shop
Probably the main tcc solenoid
Im having a gard time getting that clip out, how did you bend the clip?
Ground the end of the needle nose pliers, bent the ends of the clip straight and push open. Lots of patience.
This still took me 4.5 hrs laying on my back in the driveway. I just suggest to everyone you get the new valve body and separator plate gaskets and some trans gel for the check balls......
Yes, it would be much easier on a bench, but taking the valve body off introduces a lot of other places to make errors when re-assembling and if not careful can cause major damage to the transmission. This is the simplest and least likely way to avoid damaging anything else.
20$ vs 300$ tho….
@DirtyNate98 $20 vs $300 for what? Gaskets and trans gel isn't much. My time cost nothing
@@baileyintwert4970 misread your comment disregard. But yeah for average joe messing around with the clip is a lot safer than dropping the valve body.
Where did you buy that flashlight from? Nice video i am in the process of swapping that TCC valve as well.
Light is from Harbor Freight.
What year is the 4l60e?
I think this one was a 1998, but they are all pretty similar.
What about the old spring do we put it back inside with new valve?
Great video sir!
be nice to show parts removed and installed since the camera was aimed at the repair
pressures not to high 🤔
Doesn't seem to be causing any problems, this is similar to how the how the previous non pwm transmissions worked, they were just on/off with the converter lockup.
I see. So the clip was steaked in the opposite direction. So all you do here is flip it around
And install the new valve body
Also thanks for the video very helpful
Nice video