+Trent Coyle Thanks, I just want others to enjoy their workshops, no matter how meager they may be. And tackle projects they can save a few $ and be proud of what they have accomplished with their own skills. It will make your day.
It never ceases to amaze me how someone can take a simple solution to a simple problem and make an engineering nightmare out of it. WOW! Like everyone else's, my hitch rattled too. So with a feeler gauge, I measured a clearance of .064 between the shank and the receiver. Taking a piece of steel strapping measuring .060, I fashioned two shims, one with a 3/4" hole for the pin, and bent one ends to use as a handle. First I grease the shims with any grease, and then I slide one on the bottom of the receiver, and the other to the side. In goes the shank; I may have to shove the shank in as the clearance is very snug. In goes the pin, and away I go, no rattles, no shake. Beauty! The grease helps to slide it in, and protects against rust. When time to remove the hitch, it slides out easy-peasy, and the greasy shims go into a plastic bag. I also use a plastic bag to protect my hands from the greasy shank.
+Melvin Goddard I didn't do this video to show you my way is the only way. To each is own, what ever works for you. If you're happy with your greasy dust and sand catching hitch so be it. By the way this was my engineering dream not a nightmare. I'm surprised you didn't include some duct tape in your solution as so many have suggested in their comments. If you have a solution to the problem lets see your instructional video. Or if criticizing my effort to share an Idea works best for you...so be it.
Good Morning Ray; No video is required as description is self explanatory. After successfully using this method for about nine years, dust had not proved to be a problem; it wash's off. My hitches are snug, no rattles, no wear, very little rust. Thanks for another 'take' on a sometimes contentious subject. I just wish that these manufacturers would be more careful in their product design. Cheers Mel☺
Simply weld a couple beads across the hitch shaft, the top of the shaft at the rear and the bottom of the shaft at the front. Grind down beads, Trial Fit until it is snug. You may have to weld beads on all 4 sides. I used an oversize Stainless Steel bolt and drilled it for a padlock. Receiver holes drilled for a tight fit. Grease the internals when completed after painting. Quick, Simple, Secure.
This will save your hitch parts from getting worn out. If you haul a LOT like me, you'll appreciate the receiver being stationary. I don't have a welder, but if I did and had lots of extra time, I would make this for my truck.
I’m going to give the old guy a thumbs up 👍 because he’s seams like a nice guy. This idea only works if you’re towing small light stuff. Judging by he’s Hitch he’s not pulling anything heavy. It won’t work on a 30K Hitch and pintle hook system pulling a 26 thousand pounds trailer. That will loosen this little system in no time.
Man I wish I had the time to tinker around like you do. I have a machine shop as well, but my CNC machines need to put food on my table. You remind me of my retired brother-in-law who just bought a new lathe for his home garage. I look forward to the days I can do stuff like this. I see you love this type work, or should I say, play. Phil
marcus mceachen Marcus if you look at 15:10 on the video you will see the whole assembly. The tightening bolt, the deep nut and the eye bolt are now all part of the hitch and will not get lost as they are an integral part of the hitch. When the hitch is removed for storage, the hitch pin goes back in the hitch and through the eye-bolts securing all the parts. As for having a wrench handily secured near the hitch is not practical. A tool is only required for a once on, once off use each time I use the trailer. I always carry tools in my truck. Thanks for putting so much thought into your post.
The closed loop connector with right hand threads, is sold in Lowes and Home Depot. I did the welded bead, and that stopped the vertical movement, but, then, the trailer hitch still drifted out, slammed, really, when stopping and starting out. Now, i have a ton of threaded rod and boxes of hardware, so, I will make the U Bolt, and try that next... Have four vehicles that need this.
Incredibly manly way to solve an irritation. You just have to have several tools (socket, extension, and rat shit) to disassemble it. Another solution would be to take two tapered pieces of 2x4 and hammer them in snug and you only need one tool (a big hammer) for assembly and disassembly. Yet another solution would be to take a large bungee and wrap it around and you need no tools except your hand. But I'm impressed with all the welding and precision machining that you demonstrated.
I have had many suggestions from duct tape to framing nails and seriously I did go overboard with this build to encourage guys in their shop to put their tools to work and enjoy a build project of their own. That is the mandate of my site, teaching and encouragement. You can easily buy a commercial product to do this job. I'm talking about pulling a trailer weighing 8000 lbs with a tongue weight of 800 lbs. Your 2x4 wedgies just wont do the job. Thanks for your comment.
I drilled a 5/8 hole on the side of my hitch ahead of the pin, welded 5/8 nut over the hole and put in a bolt and tightened it and years later it still works just fine for only a dollar.
Good idea and great innovation. I like the idea of drilling out the pin for a pad lock. From a welding inspector to you ray, good job. Nothing wrong with your setup at all.
This build has been fascinating to watch. But a simpler solution is to use a nut and bolt, drill a hole through the bottom of the receiver tube, forward of the hitch pin. Then weld the nut over the hole and thread the bolt into the nut, tightening it against the hitch/ball mount.
Good Idea but my concern is the hole you drill in the hitch modifies it and could be a weakness. It also puts the entire weight of the trailer on the tip of a bolt? It would probably work better if it was to come down from the top of the receiver tube, but that would mean removing the hitch to get access to drill. I realize the project was way too complicated for what it needed to do, but it was a project I wanted to build.
There are countless ways to build or buy an anti-rattle setup. If you read the comments below many suggestions have been put forward. I admit I went a little overboard with my design and built a fairly elaborate setup, but I'm retired, had the time and wanted to build it this way for the fun and challenge. I thank all my viewers for their suggestions and lets face it, if it works for you then the job is done. Good luck and have fun making your setup. Thanks for your complement Randy.
+Tbvck The whole point of the videos I do for my web site www.raywhyte.ca is to encourage the home handyman. I don't think anyone will copy it exactly but that is not the point of any of my projects. They are all meant to stimulate the want-to-be home handyman to not be afraid to tackle projects. You would be surprised how many women/men are afraid to take on simple projects for fear of wrecking something. I just want them to try, and feel the pleasure of crafting or fixing something with their own hands. Thanks for commenting.
Your pulling the hitch into the receiver with the bolts and the load will always try to pull the receiver out. Either the nuts will where or the angle will bend and you will need to keep tightening the bolts. Easy way drill out one side of the receiver make a bushing with the id the same size as the pin replace pin with a bolt and nut draw hitch to one side of the receiver, no movement no more rattle been doing it this way for 40yrs.
Have you thought about welding a washer to the tightening bolt so you don't lose it when you are transporting the hitch in the back of your truck. Also there should be a way to keep the eye part to the bolt so it don't get lost also. The tightening bolt should be able to be tightened without a ratchet of have a place on or near the hit receiver for a wrench with a piece of wire rope so it doesn't get lost also.
How has this held up? Seems like the entire weight of the trailer would be pulling on those 2 deep nuts? I had an antirattle device which was simply a rectangle tube that had a lip welded to the bottom and a nut welded to that. slip it over the hitch and tighten the bolt down. Just make sure the bolt catches the receiver and the rectangle catches the trailer it. Its basically cantilevers the hitch downward. Since the tongue weight it holding it down it just needs to be strong enough to counter the bouncing of the tongue. Simple and effective.
BC4Lyphe Your setup sounds pretty simple. I haven't had any problems with this setup and it does the job. I guess time will tell. Thanks for your comment, keep on truckin!
Really nice job. Just a couple observations. You may want to weld the eye bolt to the nut or use red lock tight so it doesn’t loosen. Maybe go to a threaded rod in place of the bolt and weld it to the nut. Then use a washer with a nylock nut to tighten the assembly or simply add a lock washer to the bolt.
I took a small brass wedge and on the underside of the hitch and hammered it in.........No wobble at all, been on my Tundra for 2 years now and never came loose. $5.00 small brass wedge and 3 minutes of work.
Sounds like a good idea, but I have some reservations. This wedge over time will crush (it's soft brass) depending on the weight of trailer tongue, and like the guy who hammers a nail in his hitch as a wedge, who are you going to swear at when it falls out and causes a flat in one of your trailer tires.
I do understand what you are saying Ray, but it's been two years and I pull a 3200 lb. Camper around at least a dozen times a year and the wedge is still in place and never fell out or got loose. When and if it does I'll let you know.
corysm30 this will keep your hitch from rattling in the receiver tube, but won't take any noise out of your weight distribution hitch. Because the distribution hitch is under extreme tension, the noise you are hearing is likely from the receiver tube and this mod will eliminate that noise.
I used my mig welder, ran some beads down each side then ground those down until the hitch fit in the receiver nicely without play. It's been quite for several years now.
+mfoto01 Whatever works, that's a good mod. I know my apparatus is quite elaborate but the premise of my web site is to stimulate the grey cells of handymen / handywomen to tackle projects of all types. I demon-straight the use of tools and hardware so you won't be discouraged in tacking on a major project. For some of us we don't think twice, for newbies, I can be intimidating and fearful....just do it. The worst that can happen is you waste your own time and materials. The best is to invent an item that solves a problem and gives you confidence to keep doing it. Thanks for commenting I appreciate every viewer.
I like the concept, but the tensioning links are working against themselves. Kind of like standing on a piece of plywood and trying to pick it up For example, if the truck receiver hitch crosspin holes were 1/8 dia larger than they are now, you'll still develop tension and the hitch will rattle . You're really only stopping the cross pin from rattling in the ball mount. Just like you demonstrated in the vice . If the ball mount cross pin hole is larger , then it will work as designed, but your now using the eyeball assemblies to pull the trailer load, not the double shear interface on the cross pin. The welded on ears will bend or the eye bolts will deform resulting in the rattle returning over time I like both of your locking pin ideas
T JRick Well you have certainly given this some thought. Love your analogy of standing on a piece of plywood and trying to pick it up. Got a chuckle out of that, I know I have tried that several times in my life. The way it tensions is, the holes in the hitch and the truck mounted receiver tube are slightly different sizes. These are both factory holes so I lucked out with just enough difference that I could take up the slack with my apparatus. I am not concerned about the angle iron brackets or eye bolts failing. They have proved to be overbuilt and are working as planned. If a failure results here, the result would simply an annoying rattling SOB hitch that I started out with. So far it's working great. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
T JRick I agree JRick he could easily prevent that by using a turn buckle nut and left hand treads on one shaft the just tighten the turn buckle to Push out rather than pull in. simple change and no cost difference. also he could have forgone the angle iron and just used 4 eye bolts and put a shaft or bolt through the lower unused hole on the receiver adapter.
+TheFiremonkeyman Do a trial mockup using clamps to see if there is enough play in the hitch-pin to make it work. If the hitch cinches up tight and all the play is gone, then this mod will work on your hitch. Good luck and let us all know if it works.
+Ray Whyte There just has to be a tighter fit between the pin and the receiver than between the pin and the accessory, right? That way the bolt/eyelet start pulling the pin against the receiver, and then start pulling the accessory tight against the pin.
You are a maestro. I love it. Make me one? I was considering drilling and threading an extra hole on either side of the receiver tube into which I could put a bolt to apply pressure to the hitch. You think that would work well enough? No welding, which I can't do.
Be carefull any drilling or modification to the receiver tube could compromise the tube. A wedge system could take up the slack. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
I just stuck a little bit of duct tape to the ball mount that sits in between it and the receiver hitch when fully inserted. Silent 30-second fix for almost free.
I've been towing for years, i.e. boats, utility trailers, camper trailers, etc. on all types of roads. Yes the sound of a rattling hitch can be deafening and quite dangerous.... Okay, I'm just kidding! I've never been bothered by my hitch or anyone else's hitch rattling or making noise. But, nice mod and more power to ya! Best Wishes.
On the receiver, drill a hole in a top corner and weld a nut at about 45*. Put a bolt in there and tighten until no movement. That's what have on my father's truck and it's has about 15 tons on it, no problem
Thanks for a great video. But I wonder if there isn't a problem with the setup. The problem I see with this is best illustrated by imagining you are installing this setup into a hitch receiver that has an oversized pin hole. I think the tensioning setup would simply tighten up on the hitch itself (like it was on your workbench) and the pin would still be sloppy and slide around in the larger hole of the receiver. Now, on the other hand, if your hitch had a larger pin hole than the receiver, then yes, the tension setup would work as thought. Lastly, the tensioning setup transfers a lot of load to the bolts. I am not sure they would hold up in extreme situations. Just my observations.
Go to 8:30 in the video and look at the complete setup. The setup only pulls the pin against the hitch. Even slid into a receiver, the tightening setup pulls the pin towards the back of the hitch against the hitch body. The receiver isn't involved, at all.
I think your pin needs spacers on it to keep the turnbuckles square and parallel to each other. See the 14:23 mark in the video to see what I'm referring to.
+Trent Coyle Trent I have so many ideas and just not enough time to produce them all. I'm going to have to live to 140 to get them all done. I have several videos where the ideas are now in the commercial market, and now in general use. That's ok, I just love to work in the shop. Thanks for commenting.
Guy, I don't see how simply pulling the mount straight into the receiver could really stop the horizontal and vertical movement of the mount with a heavy trailer yanking on it. In my opinion, there are simpler anti-rattle solutions (clamps, etc - search Amazon for "hitch rattle") which seem to address that exact movement more directly.
Ray, my only concern is the Strengthening gussets that you welded to the angle iron. To really give it added strength and to keep it from bending when you tighten the tensioner bolts, you should have welded the gussets inside the angle iron from corner to corner inside of on top of the angle iron. This would truly give it strength to keep from bending. [\
Rather that having to weld anything to the hitch, I think I will just bend some flatbar around the the outside. Same principle but without the need to weld. As viewed from the top, it would look like a U with ears.
i have towed a fair amount of different trailers and have yet to ever notice hitch noise. when you have the radio on, you dont hear minor things like that. is it really that big a deal?
lac365 If you tow on smooth roads, you probably won't notice any hitch noise. I and lots of others travel gravel and dirt back roads in the mountains, that's when it will become very noticeable. Put a large pot over your head and tap on it with a spoon, get the idea. How long are you willing to put up with that racket.
Ray Whyte first of all, im from saskatchewan. there is no such thing as a smooth road here. second, i towed boats and enclosed trailers on washboard roads and skid steers on a pintle hitch on the same roads. i have fantastic hearing btw. the only noise i ever hear is from the safety chains, the load, or the trailer itself. but never from the hitch.
lac365 You are fortunate not to have to put up with hitch rattle, but this is a real problem for a lot of tow vehicles. I drive a 1st. gen. Dodge 2500. This is an old truck and the suspension is made up of a series of flat river rocks bound together with vines. Come to think of it, that could be my problem when I come to think of it?
Cordel Posch Yes you could attach directly to the hitch, but it was easier to use the hitch pin as a pulling point and it saved me from having to weld upside down and in an awkward spot on the truck hitch.
Drill a hole on the side of receiver, insert the hitch, place a heavy duty self tapping screw, tighten the screw and there you go no more wobble. Cost .75 cents for the screw.
Your thinking and that is good. The self tapping screw idea may work for light duty utility trailers. But my setup was built for heavy duty towing(and agree there are numerous ways to do this). Two problems with the self tapping screw for heavy duty use is. 1. The hitch noise is from an up and down motion and not side to side, so you would have to insert the screw from below and it would soon become crushed in heavy duty situations. Sorry but you will have to spend more than 75 cents to achieve a permanent solution.
Hey Ray have to hand it to you ! That's a pretty damn good idea and work on that hitch. What I did to cure that problem for me is I drilled a hole into the side of the hitch receiver itself welded a 9/16 nut just in front of the hitch pin and added a 9/16 bolt to it. Since I find myself just leaving the hitch in, I just bolt it down until its tight and problem solved. Again great idea and craftsmanship.
+RayWhyte I noticed your license plate isn't covered in the first part of the video and is in the second. You may want to adjust this so identity theft doesn't occur. Love the videos!
+Ben's tool talk Thanks for the tip. When you do a video of a project, it takes 3 to 4 times longer depending on the number of camera and lighting moves. Then usually 2-4 hours of video transfer and editing. Anyone posting quality educational videos deserves a compliment now and then. It is a lot of work. I have more in the can, just need to edit them and post to You Tube. Thanks for your comment.
You've got a great idea, but your relying on the strength of your " homemade" pin, which will have a shear factor. This setup adds alot of stress to the pin, plus the weight of your trailer. Could you not have attached the setup to the main hitch?
The homemade pin is not just a piece of mild steel. It is made from shaft material, chrome molly steel. I could have attached it to the main hitch as you suggest and that would have worked too.
Or, i just cut a bicycle innertube into 2" strips and layer them 3 layers thick on the male part before inserting it into the receiver. No wobble, no rattle, no weakening the hardened metal from welding, and you can make enough for a lifetime from one tube.
I certainly hope that this does not happen, but: IF, and I emphasize IF, this hitch were to break at the point where he welded the angle iron on- -he would not have a prayer as to any insurance of his paying for any damage. Worse yet, IF this were to happen the other parties insurance would have a field day with this modification.
David Chatman I appreciate your concern, these angle iron attachments are welded directly to solid 2" X 2" square stock, if anything, the angle iron add-ons have added strength to the hitch. If the hitch was made of 2x2 square tubing, then I would be worried and would not have made the mod.
I simply used an aluminum Coke can as a shim between the hitch and receiver. Wrapped the aluminum around the hitch and poked a hole for the pin to pass through, problem solved.
great job ,,Pitty in Australia everything needs load ratings even shacles ,, If it hasnt got an ADR (autralain designe rule ) number and you have a stack the insurance will just laugh at you ,,,,
I realize I went overboard with my project, but it was something I wanted to build. There are cheaper alternatives out there. Your solution will do the job, but any alterations to the actual receiver that could weaken it could result in insurance claims being dissaloud. Thanks for your reply.
They're probably just drawn back after welding, a simple reheat would be fine, I'm more concerned that the weights riding on that chinese eybolts until his bracket bends or snaps, shock loading that pin.
FORGOT TO TELL YOU TO DRILL THE PIPE TAPER ONLY 1/4 OR LESS INTO END OF PIPE. THAT MAY NOT SEEM LIKE IT WILL HOLD, BUT I PROMISE YOU IT WILL HOLD BETTER THAN FACTORY SLOPPY PIN. and i will not rattle.
Thank you Mark, as you can see I have nothing but time and inclination on my hands, so some of my inventions get carried away. For those not familiar with Rude, here is the Wikipedia version. Reuben Garrett Lucius Goldberg (July 4, 1883 - December 7, 1970), known best as Rube Goldberg, was an American cartoonist, sculptor, author, engineer, and inventor. Goldberg is best known for his popular cartoons depicting complicated gadgets performing simple tasks in indirect, convoluted ways. The cartoons led to the expression "Rube Goldberg machines" to describe similar gadgets and processes. Goldberg received many honors in his lifetime, including a Pulitzer Prize for political cartooning in 1948 and the Banshees' Silver Lady Award in 1959.[1]
Leave Ray alone. He simply is expressing his idea. This world needs more men like him. Good job Ray.
+Trent Coyle
Thanks, I just want others to enjoy their workshops, no matter how meager they may be. And tackle projects they can save a few $ and be proud of what they have accomplished with their own skills. It will make your day.
It never ceases to amaze me how someone can take a simple solution to a simple problem and make an engineering nightmare out of it. WOW!
Like everyone else's, my hitch rattled too. So with a feeler gauge, I measured a clearance of .064 between the shank and the receiver.
Taking a piece of steel strapping measuring .060, I fashioned two shims, one with a 3/4" hole for the pin, and bent one ends to use as a handle.
First I grease the shims with any grease, and then I slide one on the bottom of the receiver, and the other to the side.
In goes the shank; I may have to shove the shank in as the clearance is very snug.
In goes the pin, and away I go, no rattles, no shake. Beauty!
The grease helps to slide it in, and protects against rust.
When time to remove the hitch, it slides out easy-peasy, and the greasy shims go into a plastic bag. I also use a plastic bag to protect my hands from the greasy shank.
+Melvin Goddard
I didn't do this video to show you my way is the only way. To each is own, what ever works for you. If you're happy with your greasy dust and sand catching hitch so be it. By the way this was my engineering dream not a nightmare. I'm surprised you didn't include some duct tape in your solution as so many have suggested in their comments. If you have a solution to the problem lets see your instructional video. Or if criticizing my effort to share an Idea works best for you...so be it.
Good Morning Ray;
No video is required as description is self explanatory.
After successfully using this method for about nine years, dust had not proved to be a problem; it wash's off.
My hitches are snug, no rattles, no wear, very little rust.
Thanks for another 'take' on a sometimes contentious subject.
I just wish that these manufacturers would be more careful in their product design.
Cheers
Mel☺
Simply weld a couple beads across the hitch shaft, the top of the shaft at the rear and the bottom of the shaft at the front. Grind down beads, Trial Fit until it is snug. You may have to weld beads on all 4 sides. I used an oversize Stainless Steel bolt and drilled it for a padlock. Receiver holes drilled for a tight fit. Grease the internals when completed after painting. Quick, Simple, Secure.
This will save your hitch parts from getting worn out. If you haul a LOT like me, you'll appreciate the receiver being stationary. I don't have a welder, but if I did and had lots of extra time, I would make this for my truck.
I’m going to give the old guy a thumbs up 👍 because he’s seams like a nice guy. This idea only works if you’re towing small light stuff. Judging by he’s Hitch he’s not pulling anything heavy. It won’t work on a 30K Hitch and pintle hook system pulling a 26 thousand pounds trailer. That will loosen this little system in no time.
I usually wrap duck tape around it so it is snug in the port.
Man I wish I had the time to tinker around like you do. I have a machine shop as well, but my CNC machines need to put food on my table. You remind me of my retired brother-in-law who just bought a new lathe for his home garage. I look forward to the days I can do stuff like this. I see you love this type work, or should I say, play.
Phil
I don't know if this has already been mentioned or not but those "Deep Nuts" are called "Coupling nuts" or "Coupler nuts".
marcus mceachen
Marcus if you look at 15:10 on the video you will see the whole assembly. The tightening bolt, the deep nut and the eye bolt are now all part of the hitch and will not get lost as they are an integral part of the hitch. When the hitch is removed for storage, the hitch pin goes back in the hitch and through the eye-bolts securing all the parts. As for having a wrench handily secured near the hitch is not practical. A tool is only required for a once on, once off use each time I use the trailer. I always carry tools in my truck. Thanks for putting so much thought into your post.
The closed loop connector with right hand threads, is sold in Lowes and Home Depot. I did the welded bead, and that stopped the vertical movement, but, then, the trailer hitch still drifted out, slammed, really, when stopping and starting out. Now, i have a ton of threaded rod and boxes of hardware, so, I will make the U Bolt, and try that next... Have four vehicles that need this.
Nice work! Always fun to do it yourself. Everything is store-bought nowadays!
Incredibly manly way to solve an irritation. You just have to have several tools (socket, extension, and rat shit) to disassemble it. Another solution would be to take two tapered pieces of 2x4 and hammer them in snug and you only need one tool (a big hammer) for assembly and disassembly. Yet another solution would be to take a large bungee and wrap it around and you need no tools except your hand. But I'm impressed with all the welding and precision machining that you demonstrated.
I have had many suggestions from duct tape to framing nails and seriously I did go overboard with this build to encourage guys in their shop to put their tools to work and enjoy a build project of their own. That is the mandate of my site, teaching and encouragement. You can easily buy a commercial product to do this job. I'm talking about pulling a trailer weighing 8000 lbs with a tongue weight of 800 lbs. Your 2x4 wedgies just wont do the job. Thanks for your comment.
I drilled a 5/8 hole on the side of my hitch ahead of the pin, welded 5/8 nut over the hole and put in a bolt and tightened it and years later it still works just fine for only a dollar.
Good idea and great innovation. I like the idea of drilling out the pin for a pad lock. From a welding inspector to you ray, good job. Nothing wrong with your setup at all.
This build has been fascinating to watch. But a simpler solution is to use a nut and bolt, drill a hole through the bottom of the receiver tube, forward of the hitch pin. Then weld the nut over the hole and thread the bolt into the nut, tightening it against the hitch/ball mount.
Good Idea but my concern is the hole you drill in the hitch modifies it and could be a weakness. It also puts the entire weight of the trailer on the tip of a bolt? It would probably work better if it was to come down from the top of the receiver tube, but that would mean removing the hitch to get access to drill. I realize the project was way too complicated for what it needed to do, but it was a project I wanted to build.
Ray what a great job!!! That is the coolest thing I have ever seen. I hate hitch rattle. Now I know what I am going to to to stop it. Thanks again
There are countless ways to build or buy an anti-rattle setup. If you read the comments below many suggestions have been put forward. I admit I went a little overboard with my design and built a fairly elaborate setup, but I'm retired, had the time and wanted to build it this way for the fun and challenge. I thank all my viewers for their suggestions and lets face it, if it works for you then the job is done.
Good luck and have fun making your setup. Thanks for your complement Randy.
I welded a bead on bottom two edges of hitch. Dressed them down to make it fit more snug in reciever. Problem solved.
Also helps make it harder for someone to steal your hitch in a parking lot!
Congratulations, you have just solved a simple problem with a very complicated solution.
+Tbvck
The whole point of the videos I do for my web site www.raywhyte.ca is to encourage the home handyman.
I don't think anyone will copy it exactly but that is not the point of any of my projects. They are all meant to stimulate the want-to-be home handyman to not be afraid to tackle projects. You would be surprised how many women/men are afraid to take on simple projects for fear of wrecking something. I just want them to try, and feel the pleasure of crafting or fixing something with their own hands. Thanks for commenting.
+Ray Whyte I suppose I was a bit presumptuous. There is usually more than one way to make things work. Thank you.
looks like a nice solution to me and also got me thinking about silencing my trailer hitch.
May be a long video, but not a complicated solution at all...if you weld. I like this a lot.
i agree not complicated at all very little work needed also its removable so easy to weld
Your pulling the hitch into the receiver with the bolts and the load will always try to pull the receiver out. Either the nuts will where or the angle will bend and you will need to keep tightening the bolts. Easy way drill out one side of the receiver make a bushing with the id the same size as the pin replace pin with a bolt and nut draw hitch to one side of the receiver, no movement no more rattle been doing it this way for 40yrs.
Have you thought about welding a washer to the tightening bolt so you don't lose it when you are transporting the hitch in the back of your truck. Also there should be a way to keep the eye part to the bolt so it don't get lost also. The tightening bolt should be able to be tightened without a ratchet of have a place on or near the hit receiver for a wrench with a piece of wire rope so it doesn't get lost also.
I like your unique setup. Interesting.
I did go overboard with this build but it was something I wanted to try. There are cheaper alternatives available. Thanks for your comments.
Boy, did you ever over think this.
Thanks for the idea. I have a multi ball hitch, so I would have to add a few extra support gussets...
Joseph Lee Send me some pictures or video that we can share with others that have a multi ball hitch. I would like to see your finished project.
A small comment; add tension washers to the bolts so as they don't back out. T.
Have you looked at any products made by Curt? I'm using a Curt receiver hitch with a 4 inch drop. Tongue weight of 2,500 LBS. Solid
How has this held up? Seems like the entire weight of the trailer would be pulling on those 2 deep nuts? I had an antirattle device which was simply a rectangle tube that had a lip welded to the bottom and a nut welded to that. slip it over the hitch and tighten the bolt down. Just make sure the bolt catches the receiver and the rectangle catches the trailer it. Its basically cantilevers the hitch downward. Since the tongue weight it holding it down it just needs to be strong enough to counter the bouncing of the tongue. Simple and effective.
BC4Lyphe Your setup sounds pretty simple. I haven't had any problems with this setup and it does the job. I guess time will tell. Thanks for your comment, keep on truckin!
Really nice job.
Just a couple observations. You may want to weld the eye bolt to the nut or use red lock tight so it doesn’t loosen. Maybe go to a threaded rod in place of the bolt and weld it to the nut. Then use a washer with a nylock nut to tighten the assembly or simply add a lock washer to the bolt.
Good suggestions, thanks for commenting.
I took a small brass wedge and on the underside of the hitch and hammered it in.........No wobble at all, been on my Tundra for 2 years now and never came loose. $5.00 small brass wedge and 3 minutes of work.
Sounds like a good idea, but I have some reservations. This wedge over time will crush (it's soft brass) depending on the weight of trailer tongue, and like the guy who hammers a nail in his hitch as a wedge, who are you going to swear at when it falls out and causes a flat in one of your trailer tires.
I do understand what you are saying Ray, but it's been two years and I pull a 3200 lb. Camper around at least a dozen times a year and the wedge is still in place and never fell out or got loose. When and if it does I'll let you know.
Cordel, you could attach it to the hitch as long as it pulls the hitch ball attachment tightly into the receiver it should work.
great Ideas to fix such an annoying problem !
Awesome work. Need to try this for my weight distribution hitch.
corysm30 this will keep your hitch from rattling in the receiver tube, but won't take any noise out of your weight distribution hitch. Because the distribution hitch is under extreme tension, the noise you are hearing is likely from the receiver tube and this mod will eliminate that noise.
I used my mig welder, ran some beads down each side then ground those down until the hitch fit in the receiver nicely without play. It's been quite for several years now.
+mfoto01 Whatever works, that's a good mod. I know my apparatus is quite elaborate but the premise of my web site is to stimulate the grey cells of handymen / handywomen to tackle projects of all types. I demon-straight the use of tools and hardware so you won't be discouraged in tacking on a major project. For some of us we don't think twice, for newbies, I can be intimidating and fearful....just do it.
The worst that can happen is you waste your own time and materials.
The best is to invent an item that solves a problem and gives you confidence to keep doing it.
Thanks for commenting I appreciate every viewer.
Your definitely right on the rattle being annoying, especially on a empty trailer.
I like the concept, but the tensioning links are working against themselves. Kind of like standing on a piece of plywood and trying to pick it up
For example, if the truck receiver hitch crosspin holes were 1/8 dia larger than they are now, you'll still develop tension and the hitch will rattle . You're really only stopping the cross pin from rattling in the ball mount. Just like you demonstrated in the vice .
If the ball mount cross pin hole is larger , then it will work as designed, but your now using the eyeball assemblies to pull the trailer load, not the double shear interface on the cross pin. The welded on ears will bend or the eye bolts will deform resulting in the rattle returning over time
I like both of your locking pin ideas
T JRick
Well you have certainly given this some thought. Love your analogy of standing on a piece of plywood and trying to pick it up. Got a chuckle out of that, I know I have tried that several times in my life.
The way it tensions is, the holes in the hitch and the truck mounted receiver tube are slightly different sizes. These are both factory holes so I lucked out with just enough difference that I could take up the slack with my apparatus.
I am not concerned about the angle iron brackets or eye bolts failing. They have proved to be overbuilt and are working as planned. If a failure results here, the result would simply an annoying rattling SOB hitch that I started out with. So far it's working great.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
T JRick I agree JRick he could easily prevent that by using a turn buckle nut and left hand treads on one shaft the just tighten the turn buckle to Push out rather than pull in. simple change and no cost difference. also he could have forgone the angle iron and just used 4 eye bolts and put a shaft or bolt through the lower unused hole on the receiver adapter.
Keith Krueger Good suggestions Keith, thanks for your comments.
+T JRick
Bingo! There is really no tension on the receiver.
Patrick mentioned wood shims, another mentioned a nail. I was thinking of an old or dollar store spatula blade, or plastic body work spatulas.
This is genius! I'm gonna do this for my bike rack and luggage rack! they both rattle like crazy.
+TheFiremonkeyman
Do a trial mockup using clamps to see if there is enough play in the hitch-pin to make it work. If the hitch cinches up tight and all the play is gone, then this mod will work on your hitch. Good luck and let us all know if it works.
+Ray Whyte
There just has to be a tighter fit between the pin and the receiver than between the pin and the accessory, right? That way the bolt/eyelet start pulling the pin against the receiver, and then start pulling the accessory tight against the pin.
I just left mine alone and turned up the music
There is a speed bump in front of my house, I HATE you. KLUNK... KLUNK, at all hours. LOL?
You are a maestro. I love it. Make me one? I was considering drilling and threading an extra hole on either side of the receiver tube into which I could put a bolt to apply pressure to the hitch. You think that would work well enough? No welding, which I can't do.
Be carefull any drilling or modification to the receiver tube could compromise the tube. A wedge system could take up the slack. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
I just stuck a little bit of duct tape to the ball mount that sits in between it and the receiver hitch when fully inserted. Silent 30-second fix for almost free.
I've been towing for years, i.e. boats, utility trailers, camper trailers, etc. on all types of roads. Yes the sound of a rattling hitch can be deafening and quite dangerous.... Okay, I'm just kidding! I've never been bothered by my hitch or anyone else's hitch rattling or making noise. But, nice mod and more power to ya! Best Wishes.
Very nice job, sir!
Krzysztof Cygan Thanks, I love it when my readers appreciate my inventions, it inspires me to get back in the workshop.
All i did was well a cpl beads on the receiver then ground them down till i had a snug fit that still slid in and out easy! done!
On the receiver, drill a hole in a top corner and weld a nut at about 45*. Put a bolt in there and tighten until no movement. That's what have on my father's truck and it's has about 15 tons on it, no problem
Much more efficient and useful for any hitch
Good Idea Red, there are numerous solutions to this problem.
Ray Whyte my personal truck is Japanese, idk if that has to do with it, but I've never had a problem with any hitch so i haven't done it yet
I think you did a great job !! I've seen lots of different setups but ,you did a pretty good job
Secure long/wide zip ties through the receiver. Muscle in the hitch over, under, or beside ties and it's a done deal.
Kudos! Nice work. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for a great video. But I wonder if there isn't a problem with the setup. The problem I see with this is best illustrated by imagining you are installing this setup into a hitch receiver that has an oversized pin hole. I think the tensioning setup would simply tighten up on the hitch itself (like it was on your workbench) and the pin would still be sloppy and slide around in the larger hole of the receiver. Now, on the other hand, if your hitch had a larger pin hole than the receiver, then yes, the tension setup would work as thought. Lastly, the tensioning setup transfers a lot of load to the bolts. I am not sure they would hold up in extreme situations. Just my observations.
It works.
Go to 8:30 in the video and look at the complete setup. The setup only pulls the pin against the hitch. Even slid into a receiver, the tightening setup pulls the pin towards the back of the hitch against the hitch body. The receiver isn't involved, at all.
nice job! that thing should last as long as that Dodge..a few hundred years or so!
I would LOVE to have you as a neighbor!!!
Thank you John, you would find the workshop an interesting place to visit. Which many neighbors did.
I think your pin needs spacers on it to keep the turnbuckles square and parallel to each other. See the 14:23 mark in the video to see what I'm referring to.
great video! nothing worse then hearing "clunck clunck" from the hitch area, I think to myself, ohgeez did I forget to lock something O_o
Nothing wrong with making your own stuff. I do it all the time. Sometimes just out of boredom ha ha.
+Trent Coyle
Trent I have so many ideas and just not enough time to produce them all. I'm going to have to live to 140 to get them all done. I have several videos where the ideas are now in the commercial market, and now in general use. That's ok, I just love to work in the shop. Thanks for commenting.
Guy, I don't see how simply pulling the mount straight into the receiver could really stop the horizontal and vertical movement of the mount with a heavy trailer yanking on it. In my opinion, there are simpler anti-rattle solutions (clamps, etc - search Amazon for "hitch rattle") which seem to address that exact movement more directly.
Excelentes accesorios hechos por usted felicitaciones un saludo cordial desde CDMX
Hey Ray I believe u r right With the stainless pin, it is much stronger.
Ray, my only concern is the Strengthening gussets that you welded to the angle iron. To really give it added strength and to keep it from bending when you tighten the tensioner bolts, you should have welded the gussets inside the angle iron from corner to corner inside of on top of the angle iron. This would truly give it strength to keep from bending. [\
If I tune my ball Mont over will it pull my equipment my tractor and trailer and my bush hog 2018 dodge ram 5.7l hemi 1500
Rather that having to weld anything to the hitch, I think I will just bend some flatbar around the the outside. Same principle but without the need to weld. As viewed from the top, it would look like a U with ears.
i have towed a fair amount of different trailers and have yet to ever notice hitch noise. when you have the radio on, you dont hear minor things like that. is it really that big a deal?
lac365 If you tow on smooth roads, you probably won't notice any hitch noise. I and lots of others travel gravel and dirt back roads in the mountains, that's when it will become very noticeable. Put a large pot over your head and tap on it with a spoon, get the idea. How long are you willing to put up with that racket.
Ray Whyte first of all, im from saskatchewan. there is no such thing as a smooth road here. second, i towed boats and enclosed trailers on washboard roads and skid steers on a pintle hitch on the same roads. i have fantastic hearing btw. the only noise i ever hear is from the safety chains, the load, or the trailer itself. but never from the hitch.
lac365 You are fortunate not to have to put up with hitch rattle, but this is a real problem for a lot of tow vehicles. I drive a 1st. gen. Dodge 2500. This is an old truck and the suspension is made up of a series of flat river rocks bound together with vines. Come to think of it, that could be my problem when I come to think of it?
would it still work if you attached the eyelets to hitch and not the hitch pin
Cordel Posch Yes you could attach directly to the hitch, but it was easier to use the hitch pin as a pulling point and it saved me from having to weld upside down and in an awkward spot on the truck hitch.
Not criticizing your work Sir, but a lock washer under each bolt would keep them from losing up. Nice job.
Drill a hole on the side of receiver, insert the hitch, place a heavy duty self tapping screw, tighten the screw and there you go no more wobble. Cost .75 cents for the screw.
Your thinking and that is good. The self tapping screw idea may work for light duty utility trailers. But my setup was built for heavy duty towing(and agree there are numerous ways to do this). Two problems with the self tapping screw for heavy duty use is.
1. The hitch noise is from an up and down motion and not side to side, so you would have to insert the screw from below and it would soon become crushed in heavy duty situations. Sorry but you will have to spend more than 75 cents to achieve a permanent solution.
Hey Ray have to hand it to you ! That's a pretty damn good idea and work on that hitch. What I did to cure that problem for me is I drilled a hole into the side of the hitch receiver itself welded a 9/16 nut just in front of the hitch pin and added a 9/16 bolt to it. Since I find myself just leaving the hitch in, I just bolt it down until its tight and problem solved. Again great idea and craftsmanship.
Great idea, thanks for sharing.
+RayWhyte I noticed your license plate isn't covered in the first part of the video and is in the second. You may want to adjust this so identity theft doesn't occur. Love the videos!
+Ben's tool talk
Thanks for the tip. When you do a video of a project, it takes 3 to 4 times longer depending on the number of camera and lighting moves. Then usually 2-4 hours of video transfer and editing. Anyone posting quality educational videos deserves a compliment now and then. It is a lot of work. I have more in the can, just need to edit them and post to You Tube. Thanks for your comment.
good job Mr.
You've got a great idea, but your relying on the strength of your " homemade" pin, which will have a shear factor. This setup adds alot of stress to the pin, plus the weight of your trailer. Could you not have attached the setup to the main hitch?
The homemade pin is not just a piece of mild steel. It is made from shaft material, chrome molly steel. I could have attached it to the main hitch as you suggest and that would have worked too.
Or, i just cut a bicycle innertube into 2" strips and layer them 3 layers thick on the male part before inserting it into the receiver. No wobble, no rattle, no weakening the hardened metal from welding, and you can make enough for a lifetime from one tube.
Nice to see a BC Video. Cheers and happy trailering!
I certainly hope that this does not happen, but: IF, and I emphasize IF, this hitch were to break at the point where he welded the angle iron on- -he would not have a prayer as to any insurance of his paying for any damage. Worse yet, IF this were to happen the other parties insurance would have a field day with this modification.
David Chatman I appreciate your concern, these angle iron attachments are welded directly to solid 2" X 2" square stock, if anything, the angle iron add-ons have added strength to the hitch. If the hitch was made of 2x2 square tubing, then I would be worried and would not have made the mod.
Damn! Most of your weight won’t be on the trailer. It’s your hitch!
Nice video, you might also want to check out HitchClamp.com for their various hitch stabilizers.
Great video.
Wow that is very smart.
I think it funny that you covered you plate at the end of the video, left it in the video in the beginning....
Thank you, you are the only one who noticed, sharp eye sparky.
Hahahahahahahahaha boy I think the 15.00 dollar anti rattle does the job well enough. Thanks for the idea sir..
It’s good except for that Master Lock , that’s a easy pick job there.
I simply used an aluminum Coke can as a shim between the hitch and receiver. Wrapped the aluminum around the hitch and poked a hole for the pin to pass through, problem solved.
Was that classic or diet?
Sure for proof of concept but you could have ordered a anti rattle hitch plate from Amazon for $15 and been done in about 2 minutes installing it!
could just let it rust bond over time and then never be able to remove the hitch, and when you’re towing then you also have no hitch noise
I hate that raddle also. Good idea
Pulls load on the two bolts instead of the hitch pin. Novel idea
looks good
great job ,,Pitty in Australia everything needs load ratings even shacles ,, If it hasnt got an ADR (autralain designe rule ) number and you have a stack the insurance will just laugh at you ,,,,
I just drive in a couple ceder shims. $4 for 42pack at home depot.
Those shims always eventually fall out when I use them.
@@JT_70 then drive another back in, it's not hard and very cheap.
I drilled a hole in bottom of receiver ,welded a nut on an use a bolt fir set screw
I realize I went overboard with my project, but it was something I wanted to build.
There are cheaper alternatives out there. Your solution will do the job, but any alterations to the actual receiver that could weaken it could result in insurance claims being dissaloud. Thanks for your reply.
I was always told never weld on a hitch
They're probably just drawn back after welding, a simple reheat would be fine, I'm more concerned that the weights riding on that chinese eybolts until his bracket bends or snaps, shock loading that pin.
DirtRoadTraveler Blah, blah, blah...
Hitch tubing is mild steel; plain and simple- no issues welding on it. Providing that your weld is solid and doesn’t look like bird shit, that is.
FORGOT TO TELL YOU TO DRILL THE PIPE TAPER ONLY 1/4 OR LESS INTO END OF PIPE. THAT MAY NOT SEEM LIKE IT WILL HOLD, BUT I PROMISE YOU IT WILL HOLD BETTER THAN FACTORY SLOPPY PIN. and i will not rattle.
good job!
but good job just seems like a lot of troubles just go by one
i just use some duct tape around the shaft .only lasts a few trips but cheap
Rube Goldberg would be proud
Thank you Mark, as you can see I have nothing but time and inclination on my hands, so some of my inventions get carried away. For those not familiar with Rude, here is the Wikipedia version.
Reuben Garrett Lucius Goldberg (July 4, 1883 - December 7, 1970), known best as Rube Goldberg, was an American cartoonist, sculptor, author, engineer, and inventor.
Goldberg is best known for his popular cartoons depicting complicated gadgets performing simple tasks in indirect, convoluted ways. The cartoons led to the expression "Rube Goldberg machines" to describe similar gadgets and processes. Goldberg received many honors in his lifetime, including a Pulitzer Prize for political cartooning in 1948 and the Banshees' Silver Lady Award in 1959.[1]
half a large thick washer
All that work to make it stop rattling and all you need to to get a tow and stow silencer pad and it only costs 10 bucks.
interesting mod but i am getting motion sick
I am afraid that the temper of ur new pin is to soft, if u can drill it!
Most are just common Carbon Steel. I use 5/8" stainless rod for a pin.
My neighbor had similar problem he fix it with duct tape around the hitch.
+alfa
Whatever works.
Very nice sir
All I do is hammer a nail between the male and female parts.
+Ojeramup12
And who do you swear at when it falls out and goes into one of your trailer tires.
tack weld it on and smack it with a hammer when you need to take it out.