How To Properly Add A Fuel Return Line for EFI Installation
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2018
- Link to some of the fuel line ends I am using in the video:
Earl's Performance 750166ERL hose end: amzn.to/2TENqIv
Pass-thru tank fitting: amzn.to/3cyMgqr
After watching a handful of videos in adding a fuel return line the wrong way, I decided to make a video showing the proper way to do this so you don't introduce aeration into your fuel system.
Link to some of the fuel line ends I am using in the video:
Earl's Performance 750166ERL hose end: amzn.to/2TENqIv
Pass-thru tank fitting: amzn.to/3cyMgqr 
Хобби
This video makes perfect sense. Air in the system will cause all kinds of issues. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Cheers from Motown.
Thanks for the part numbers man that was a huge help! Much appreciated.
Thanks very much for this tip. I will be doing this very thing this coming week. Glad I watched this. Saving me in long run from loosing my mind!! Thanks ✌️
thanks for taking the time to make this important point.
Thank you for this. I'm about to install my EFI tank for my 50 Chevy Deluxe with LS1
I did the same exact thing with the efi hose ,works great
Thanks for the Info, it was extremely helpful for my CJ7 Sniper EfI BBD install
Glad I can help!
AWESOME LESSON
Yes, a very important step. Make sure you use a hose that is submersible rated.
Yup, he's just using the normal vapor guard instead of the submersible for some reason
Hey thanks man! This is what I thought was right but a friend told me it only barely had to go in the tank. He's a bit more experienced with fuel systems than I but it didn't seem right to me and you just confirmed it! I appreciate you taking the time to make the video.
Absolutely spectacular video! Thank you very much for this information! I have only one other idea of potential improvement. Everything in the tank by default, which the gasoline would constantly be steeped with, is pure authentic metal. I don't like the idea of a rubber hose being constantly steeped in gasoline. This might potentially cause the gasoline to become contaminated by the rubber, and cause the rubber to become deteriorated by the gasoline. The best option is to mount an authentic metal return line into the tank itself.
Great idea!!!
Totally agree
They actually make submersible fuel hose "SAE 30R10" which prevents the different layers of the hose for deteriorating when submersed in fuel.
Thanks you for the info.
Great advise,
Great tip
Thank you!
After watching this I'm not sure what I should do in my situation now.
I'm building a blow through turbo set up for my Sportster. I'll be running a low pressure fuel pump and boost referenced regulator. I'll have to fit my tank with a bung for a fuel return. The bung will be fitted up through the bottom of the tank. I was told to attach a down pipe to return the fuel to the top of the tank where it would be above my fuel level. The reason was to avoid the head pressure from the fuel inside the tank on the fuel being returned because of the fuel being returned upward through the bottom.
Way back in the day a company the made turbo kits for these bikes used the vent tube for a return. My vent tube is only 1/8" and points directly up to the under side of my fuel cap.
Put a stranded insulated wire still connected to its spool through the holes drilled for the return line, use a grabber or bailing wire with a hook and catch it the the main opening, push the wire through the nut or vapor guard bolt, make a knot or put a stop (I used a large washer), the piece of wire that goes in the tank should, coming off the spool> through the return line im hole drilled into the tank> throughly vapor guard etc>then have the knot>ensure the vapor guard Al can’t slide passed the knot or stop and pull toward the spool, with a little finesse you should be able to do it quickly and easily! Thanks for the vid
Using the AN bulkhead fitting you can also just flare an aluminum line instead of the hose. Then add the proper flare nut and tighten it up...Again not easy inside the tank but doable if you position it correctly. Use a cheap lil electric fuel pump with a clear filter on it to suck up any shavings in side the tank.
Do you think I could do the return line into the 2nd hole on my tank sump?
thank you very much
Thanks for the video. My mid-70s Ford has a small hole for a vent valve on the top of the tank. I can’t install this type of bulkhead fitting because I can’t get my arm in there to install the bottom nut. So, if I use the FAST brand fitting that compresses on the tank wall and dumps the gas in, will that vent valve reduce the aeration? I’m sure it won’t eliminate the problem altogether. Just curious if you think it will help. Thanks.
Thanks for the info. Going to be routing a return line soon. Last but not least, is that heat shield insulation on your tank?
I didn’t scroll through all the comments so hopefully I am not asking same question already but could you tap and add a return hole/inlet line at the same level and close to the stock/existing exit/line on the tank?
found something that really.......chaps my ass LMAO. i like that you talk about the video as if ur friends are working with you
thanks alot
Is there a system that allows for stock tank and intake while using an in tank electric fuel pump ? 74 k5 vapor locker.
Would aeration be an issue if you have foam in your fuel cell?
it will eat the inside of the fuel pump it is cavation from the air and in a diesel it will wreck fuel injectors and high pressure injection pump. and a hard line is best in there a hose can cause the same as not having a hose at all as it can flop around under psi changes. but any is better then none. thanks for sharing
Not car related, or carb conversion. I have a crashed motorcycle that’s already EFI, but the tank is destroyed and fuel pump. I have a inline fuel pump, and can put that down into a gas tank, with just the return line shooting in at the top. It runs fine like this, but my real question is I am just gonna have a normal fuel tank gravity feeding to the pump, with a decent size inline fuel filter. But I won’t have anywhere to put the return line, I was just going to get a T connector right after the petcock for the return, but was worried that it might be too agitated to work properly, but at the same time be fine. In the end I won’t loose anything trying.
If there is room, can I drill and add the return line on top of the sender, take the sender out drill and install the fitting?
I converted to an intank pump so I still have the sump on the bottom of my tank. Do you think I could put my return in the bottom of the tank?
Do you have the install videos you spoke about in this video?
What if my FiTech system has a bung with a breather? Will that be good enough?
Question : Can you tap into the diesel return line with a T to use for a diesel heater when the car is not running? (For 2013 ML350)
Did you connect your efi pump to the stock fuel tank pickup?
Thanks my friend. I'm planning an EFI conversion soon myself. One question. Would it also be helpful to have a a fitting and plate fitted with a strong magnet to hold the hose down to the bottom of the tank? Wondering if over time the hose with curl up.
Wouldn’t be a bad idea. Or use a metal line instead of the rubber line.
nice video, would be cool, if you added in the complete parts list and what size drill bit did you use for the bung?
I'll get all of that up on Restorationmustang.com asap bud. Still working on it.
awesome man!!
@@Archifx years later it was never added, that's why it's best to just answer a question when it's asked -.- People very rarely do what they say they will do.
I'm looking at doing a FiTech or MSD throttle body fuel injection for my 67 Mustang. I'm looking at trying the Spectra Premium combo fuel pump/sender unit/return line (SP169C1H) and putting a 70 Mustang 22 gal gas tank. Post how you like the Sniper unit.
Haha. Thanks for the comment. I actually haven’t finished the sniper yet lol. I will be doing a video soon on it. Had so many things come up with work. I’ll be getting back to it next week.
Couldn't I just weld a sump on the bottom of the factory tank
what if you put it into the bottom of the tank ?
They make a bulk head fitting that will work
Best location for a return line is the filler neck for any efi add on system.
Good point. But… aeration ever an issue?
Sure hope that hose is submersible. Used to be a hoseman & made hydraulic,fuel,air hoses. None of our hoses were able to be submerged in fuel. Great point about the air though. I'd use stainless steel or brass with compression fittings.
Just watched your video. Getting ready to do the same. Where did you get the fuel tank vent I see on your tank? Also good video. Thanks
Are you referring to the braided line?
No, I was talking about the round black cap with a hose barb that you have a cap on, but now I see it is just your cap to cover the big hole in the top of the tank. I have a later model tank and this is where my sending unit and fuel lines go into my tank.
Wouldn’t driving the vehicle around cause the gas to slush around the same way ?
Could you return the fuel by using the drain on the bottom of the fuel tank, i.e. 1970 mustang 16 gallon tank.
You could, however, I wouldn't because these little gaskets they provide with these AN fittings probably wouldn't hold up for a long time being constantly saturated in fuel. You'd eventually develop a weep leak
Whatever you do, do not use a rubber fuel line to do this. It will work great for a while, then as the rubber degrades it will contaminate everything in your system and start to gum things up. Use a hard line for this. He is right you don't want the waterfall effect in your tank, but do not use a rubber line, I don't care what 30R rating it is.
I'm getting ready to install mine but will use hard line and am adding the return to the sender unit much better solution
Incorrect. It won’t degrade any faster than metal. Think about it... the rubber lines in any car ALWAYS have fuel residing on the inner wall of the rubber line. No issues. The lines are made to stand the test of time. Don’t over think it.
@@Archifx It may not degrade fast but it still degrades over time
Sure. So does anything else my friend.
@@Archifx An unfortunate truth
but ... if you make the return at the bottom sideways :) ?????????
What about cutting a square in the tank find a bigger piece of metal drill and put your rig in that use some sealant self tap screws call it a day
Did you notice on the diagram the separation between the fuel pick-up and the return tube? Where you are mounting this return extension tube into the tank would be 3-4" away from the fuel pick-up tube. The pick-up tube would suck any air bubbles in.
The way I did this is perfect. Have over 25000 miles on the car since the video. Take my advice here not the comments section. I’ve lived thru the install
Thats good to hear, I may do it also.
Your stating that without the down tube it will introduce air and bubbles into the tank, my question is then when your at the gas station pumping gas into the tank there is no down tube in your filler neck, it hits the gas at a higher pressure and really sloshing around, why aren't we concerned about that as far as introducing air and bubbles into the tank.?
It’s not the initial introduction of air bubbles. Those will float to the top and go away before you leave the station. It’s the continuous production of bubbles while driving that will hinder performance. You don’t want the fuel to continuously percolating in the tank.
Hope Not to be repeating the question but can you not put the return on the underside of the tank?
Can...but dangerous to have a hole in the bottom of your tank. Technically illegal for a car manufacturer or a commercial vehicle to have a bottom sump etc. Just bad all around
I'm pulling my tank tonight for the same reason
They give you the plastic hose for the return, you don’t want to use regular fuel hose inside the tank it will disintegrate over time. You must use submersible hose
Mine didn’t come with a hose
Maybe they changed that because I received one. Do some research on regular hose submersed. I would change that out
Hmm. Good idea for sure. I’ll check it out.
NAPA has "submersible hose" . This type of hose is used to connect the fuel pump to the metal tubing in cars with internal fuel pumps on sending units. www.napabeltshose.com/~/media/napa/documents/napa-submersible-hose.pdf?la=en . The PDF says it is not resistant to salt water or UV light. Also Gates and Dayco sell submersible fuel hose. It sells on Ebay for roughly 20 to 30 bucks per foot in automotive sizes. Regards
If the tank is already installed, the risk of using non submersible hose on the internal tank return line is probably fairly low. There is not much pressure. Its is the same as the tank at exit at the bottom of tank. One could place a small piece of non submersible hose in a jar with gasoline and find someplace to store it safely for months as a test. If the outside of the fuel line is disintegrating then you would know. ie clog up the filter if anything the hose is really coming apart.
Don't bubbles just rise and float at the surface?
pretty much, might only be an issue if low on fuel.
I’m not sure about the “bubbles make your car drive bad” theory. What happens when you drive the car? Does it not create bubbles then?
The factory adds a down-tube below the fuel pickup on ALL their vehicles (with return systems). They've always done this since the advent of return lines. Even the instruction in the video tell you to do it. It's not a theory, it's what happens. You have to decrease the instances where bubbles form otherwise your tank will look like an aquarium on the inside. Aerated gasoline sloshing around, the bubbles can even be microscopic.. just like an aquarium, allowing the fish to breath.
I guess if the return hole is far from the pick-up it might not affect it that much but why take your chances. The lack of proper info and half @ssed explanations is truly annoying.
The air in the fuel will also cause horrible cavitation of the pump.
I was hoping that someone may be able to help. I have a tank with a factory internal sending unit that is not in use, because I have a external pump that's connected to the welded on sump. Can I use the "return" on the old sending unit as the return? I currently have fuel set up as a dead head wanting to go with a return line and didn't know if it would work, 6AN fuel line all around only needing 7lbs of pressure. Thanks in advance.
Why not just add a large fuel filter with a return line made into it before the fuel pump?? If not most classic cars have sending units built with return lines added. Thats what I used for my 1956 Chevy.
And that was the short version??!! 😳. Way to many words buddy. You need to keep it simple….😉
Just found my problem lmfao 🤣😅
bung...
The video was good but you are making a huge mistake. The hose the you put into the tank MUST BE of the submersible type. If you do not do this, the fuel will eventually eat away the rubber. Standard Vapor Guard is not submersible.
I was told you don’t have to drop the tank?
I got this whole master kit. I don’t want to start this project yet, cause I don’t know how the hell im going to route this return line
Next time buy a aeromotive tank. Comes all installed for you.
They make one for a 72 mustang?
that's not why the tube is used it's so fuel doesn't run back from the feed and the fuel system is always submerged
just buy a sending unit with 2 lines for 60 bucks.smh..
Has nothing to do with a return line. Explain
Swirl pot.
What is your problem, just follow the directions provided by Holley. Are you just trying to show us how smart your are on RUclips. Most of us don't have trouble following directions and clear illustrations
What’s your problem? Why did you watch my video? Troll prick
You cannot - add any - fuel line! WAR'CHF' - "EXACT WRRN!" EFI - would diffuse - and burn - all around!
You didn't - calibrate nothin - accord - psi - force of diameter - material! Temporized!