Fuel Injection Conversion, Part 3: Easy Install - Fuel Return Bung - FiTech
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- It's time to replace my Carburetor, with a Fuel Injection system from FiTech. Have you ever wondered how to do it? How hard is it? What's involved in the process? Me Too! I've never done it before either, let's see how it goes... In this video, "Fuel Injection Conversion, Part 3: Easy Install - Fuel Return Bung" I show how to simply add a Fuel Return Bung, and/or a Vent for your existing fuel tank. While this is for my 69 Pontiac GTO, it is applicable to almost all makes and models of carbureted cars. Subscribe to follow along with the process, and for other project ideas for your ride!
WARNING: Do NOT drill into a gas tank with fuel or fuel vapor in it! Doing so may cause property damage, personal injury, or even Death! Make sure all fuel is emptied and all vapors are cleared out of the area. If needed, fill the tank with water, and/or an inert gas.
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This channel is all about how to's and what to watch out for, when working on your own car. Mike is at the tail end of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below). Also fresh off of installing a New TREMEC TKO 600 from Silver Sport Transmissions. Subscribe to watch more projects on this built, not bought, 1969 Pontiac GTO.
Here's the latest Walk Around of the GTO, filmed by RestoMods.com • A Walk Around of my "B...
NEW! FMG MERCHANDISE available! Here's the online store for shirts (pick a color), and face masks, (Grey, Black, or Red) fmgmerch.threadless.com/
PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO:
35204 Master Kit Go EFI 4 System (Power Adder) w/Force Fuel, Fuel Delivery System- fitechefi.com/product/35204-m...
fitechefi.com/product/force-f...
fitechefi.com/product/50004-9...
Other Playlists of interest;
TREMEC installation, • How to install a Wilwo...
Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:
• Something is still WRO...
Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal
• Pontiac V8 Camshaft Re...
Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!
See the build pics, before and after, at www.fastmontysgarage.com
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#GarageBuilt #DIY #FuelInjection 
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The guys at fyitech should just pay him to do the installation videos. Great work👍
Ha! Thanks Patrick!
One way to prevent metal chips going into any hole you are drilling is to coat your drill bit in red tacky grease. as the chips are created, they will be held in place by the grease.
This also is the only way I have found to chase, clean or rethread spark plug holes without having to try to get the metal out of the cylinder after.
Pro Tip- Run The Drill At A Slow RPM unless you enjoy bathing in grease.
Info - ORB stands for O-Ring Boss
Love it! Especially the "bathing in grease" warning. Thanks for the comment!
Nice demonstration Mike,I would for sure drop the tank and fill it with water before drilling. Then flushing out so burrs are eliminated..thanks again for the time you take out to provide these great great vids!
Thanks Daniel, yeah, I agree... best to take the tank out.
I have to agree with Daniel Mathys , thanks Mike for taking the time to do these videos.👍
@@johnkennedy8452 Ohhh no... thank you guys for watching and contributing, every week! @Daniel Mathys
@@FastMonty I'm assuming that if you dont de-burr properly that compression fitting wont seal properly. . looks like a small shoulder, and that burr was much larger . . ( still a very kewl option )
@@r1g2v3 Good question, Raffi. I would think the "swelling" of the Aluminum will compress the burrs. It was totally locked in there when I tried to budge it... yeah, very slick idea. Thanks for the comment!
Keep doing the lords work, Monty. Appreciate the time and energy spent.
Amen to that!
Thanks Miller Time! hmmm. that's makin me thirsty... ha, ha... See ya next week!
@@donh8563 Thanks Don!
Right Miller Time! Idle hands are the Devil's work, lol
@@robertclymer6948 Ha! Thanks Robert!
Ive watched several of your videos and appreciate your details.. I attempted this install yesterday. It ended up crooked and flared the tank edges at drilled hole and didnt crimp up.. Because the mounting point for the outlet is nearly, right below the sending unit opening, I can get extension to reach. I will drill a 10AN hole, to clean up the flared edge of 6AN hole and have tank upside down. I will then install an Evil Energy, fuel cell bulkhead fitting in its place. I will then reduce the 10AN to the 6AN outlet under tank to continue fuel line through filter and pump and forward to engine bay and regulator. My reasoning for project is to have fuel drop out bottom of tank. The electric fuel pumps push and not suck thing is an important detail.
Welcome to hot rodding. :) Thanks for sharing your story, sounds like you're making awesome progress. Keep at it!
It might be more trouble to drop the tank , but Worth saving your car and your life and those you love. Pretty cool how the aluminum part swelled out with compression to make a leak free seal . as always cool video Mike.
Thanks John, I agree dropping the tank is the best and safest method. Yeah, that compression fitting is no joke. Pretty cool concept. See ya next week!
Thanks for this video! I bought that FiTech bung kit on Ebay and some genius decided there is no need for instructions. I am putting FiTech on a 429 Cobra Jet in a 59 Ford Fairlane on my channel. I am going to try to use my Nut Sert tool to install this bung since thats the same way threaded nutserts are installed.
Ohhh, yeah... cool idea. Let us know how it goes. OR, when that video posts. Thanks for sharing!
I went with the Tanks, Inc tank with built in fuel pump on my 1968 Firebird. I also replaced the lever fuel gauge float with a Classic Instruments Tube-Type Fuel Level Senders SN38T7. I've heard some people have issues with the fuel gauge bouncing. The other benefit of the aftermarket tank is you won't starve the pump while cornering with a low fuel level. I also went with the Holley Sniper EFI.
Thanks GJ. Yeah, a new "EFI" tank, with an in tank pump is by far the most optimal way to go. But, also the most expensive. Thanks for sharing what you did, it's very helpful for everyone here. See you soon!
Cool thx and I was asking about the return line. Hoping I get a few more MPG’s out of my 1985 K 10 also adjustment for Colorado altitude and temp changes.
Awesome! I'm sure you will!
Apply grease to the bit helps catch shavings and aid in cooling plus use a regular bit
Thanks Herman... I'll have to try that grease trick. I prefer stepped bits for sheet metal, because you get a perfect hole. Whereas most drill bits will leave an oblong, or triangular hole. I appreciate the comment!
@@FastMonty I agree but a step bit is more ap to push the shavings thru the hole instead of pulling them back
@@hermanmunster5831 Ha! Good point there... Double edged sword, eh? Thanks Herman!
You can do the same with a tap.
Good video. I think I would pull the tank and go in through the top or in the fuel pump/level plate like you did.
Thanks! Yeah, definitely better to pull, or drop, the tank. Certainly nice to have options. Thanks for the comment!
Good video. Years ago I watched a guy at a service station using a torch on a gas tank sitting on saw horses in one of the bays. Everybody cleared out as soon as they realized what he was doing. There was lots of sparks and smoke but thankfully no 'boom'. The boss was certainly not impressed judging by the arms flailing around.
That's hilarious! Would've loved to see that hidden camera action... thanks for sharing!
@@FastMonty That was long before the cell phone. Taking pictures involved film and developing. Used to read about repairs like that that did not turn out as well unfortunately. Remember my dad getting out of the car at the gas station to stretch his legs and then remembering to to put his cigarette in the ashtray in the dash. Whole different world now.
@@briankinnear7461 Ha! AND, gas was 10 cents a gallon! Thanks for sharing, as usual.
Super helpful. Thanks.
Welcome!
I remember a diesel guy drilling into my cast iron exhaust manifold if my Duramax. He added a ton of grease on the drill bit and the engine was running to pressurize the manifold to minimize debris going through the turbo. Maybe you should pressurize the tank and add tons of grease to the drill bit to pick up the metal. Maybe even add neodymium magnets to the bit.
Thanks for the videos.
Thanks Nacho! I'd be wary of pressurizing the fuel tank, with fuel in it... probably best to drop and drain it. Thanks for the story and comment!
i would use a strong magnet at drilling hole to catch it up and another flexible stick with a magnet to clean the tank from the inside. Or lets say I hope it will help.
Ha! Yep, always worth the try... good idea. Thanks!
Good Video and great info including the safety precautions! Can this bung be used for return line for a Carb setup? Thank you!! Cheers from Motown.
Thanks Robert... yes, sir!
@@FastMonty Thank you Monty for a fast reply sir!!!! Blessings to you and your family!
#2 grease will work to a degree in holding metal. Gotta keep changing grease as it collects the junk
Great point. Thanks Alex!
Tempting to just purchase new sending unit with designed-in return line plumbing barb. They are not super expensive. GM A-body units available online for less than $60. This avoids drilling/shavings into tank, potential leaks from new fitting, etc. But cool video! Informative.
Ahhh yeah, very cool idea. Let us know how it goes!
I will. I am in the middle of sorting this out myself. Fuel pressure/fuel system issues are tempting to ignore until you can't, because the car isn't running or running right.
@@rogjackson Yup, chasing those bugs is frustrating, but gratifying when you find em. Keep at it!
Put a strong magnet on the tank before you drill, it could collect most metalchips .. maybe. And then use a handheld deburrer to get into the narrow places. But I would rather do those suggestions in your video. And lots of ventilation. Great video again.
Thanks Olumpus... yeah, interesting thought about a magnet. Will have to keep that in mind for future projects. See ya!
Hello, I just ran across your series "awesome" but wanted to know how many fuel filters you're running in your config. At the moment I'm runing (1) 100 filter but was thinking of adding an additonal 10 micron to the config.
Any comments / suggestions would be great. thx
Thanks RJ, good question. When I filmed this playlist, I was using a fuel pick up with NO sock. So, I had a 100 micron filter before the pump. Then a 10 Micron, after the pump. Now, which you'll see later in the playlist, I converted to an intank pump, which has a built in filter. (Some say a post filter isn't needed, but I'm still using the 10 micron filter) Here's a link to the playlist, if you need it.
ruclips.net/p/PL0VCtZe2W6eYFayoNVWpqMIwsXBbZQKqU Hope that helps!
Can I use a factory fuel pump Relay instead of a fitech Relay and how? Thank you very much for helping me
I used a relay, but the orange wire from the throttle body needs to connect to it. I covered that in episode 2. ruclips.net/video/6n4WYwfpk6o/видео.html Hope that helps.
Question: You put your low pressure fuel pump in the trunk above the fuel tank. I thought the pump had to be lower than the tank (gravity fed). What am I missing?
Good question. This pump can be installed up to 12" above the bottom of the fuel tank. That said, there are pumps that need to be gravity fed, and mounted below the fuel tank. This is not one of them. :) Thanks!
I put the return line into the gas filler tube on my 57 Chev Wagon when I did the EFI install.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Have you had any issues with the return being in the filler tube??
@@codyrobinson5561 None that I could see.
You have any pics of how and were you mounted the return bung?
@@codyrobinson5561 I took some crappy pictures but don' t see how to post them.
Can I put the bung in for the return line in the filler neck. Ands does the line need to be on a downward angle for gravity like water
Good question... I don't see anything wrong with putting the return line bung on the filler neck. Not sure which line you're talking about... if you're talking about the return line, no, I don't think it matters, because it's used for the excess pressure bleed off from the pressure regulator in the throttlebody. Let us know how it goes!
Great video! I would feel better dropping the tank and draining it first.
Thanks Jason! Agreed... better safe than sorry!
I dropped , dained and filled my gastank with water when drilling it. i did not chance a spark to blow me and the garage up. But in the end i ended up with a new efi tank. That fitting is a is a nice way to add a vent. For a return line i would like to see som way of adding an extention to the fitting to reach the bottom of the tank, to avoid possibe aeration of the fuel.
Yeah, I agree dropping the tank is best. Interesting thought about aeration... not so sure it's a big deal, as compared to all the sloshing going on. Will have to keep our eyes pealed for something like that. Thanks for the comment!
That bung tip should be longer that way it doesn't need to add a hose to it.
Doesn't matter how long it is, you need to run a hose to it. It's the return line for the throttle body. If it was just a vent, different story... just not in this case. Thanks!
That's cool!
Certainly comes in handy... :)
What about steel tank to aluminum rivet contact ? Is the tank hole going to rust/pit & leak eventually?
That's a great question! I have noooo idea. :) definitely need to keep an eye on it. Thanks!
Can I get the positive fuel pump wire from the fuse box?
Possibly... you're going to have to find a wiring diagram for your car.
You could place a magnet just under your drill bit and it should catch most of the debris.
Ohhh, I like it! Thanks for the comment!
Dear , i have s10 1991 the fuel pump 255 lph inside tank , how i connect fitech orange wire with positive fuel pump ? Help me
You have to locate the wire harness for the fuel pump, and determine which wire is the positive feed to the pump. Cut that wire, and splice it to the orange wire. Hope that helps.
So fuel bung is on the bottom of the gas tank to reduce air in the system? Is there a bung for the fuel feed?
The return bung needs to be at the top of the tank. An additional fuel supply bung at the bottom would only be needed if you had a specialized gravity fed fuel pump.
Thank you 🙌
do not do it this way, you’re pumping air back into the tank. the return needs to be submerged
is the fitech fuel injection still working with NO problems?
After I fixed a self-inflicted wiring problem, it is!
Does this work on a pipe or just flat surface?
Good question, it's intended to work on thin flat sheet metal. So, I don't think it'll work on a pipe. Thanks!
Where can we buy that fitting?
Most part suppliers have it. You can google FiTech 50004-9, or try this link... ruclips.net/user/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbl9uRWlURUNvSlIyZ3c5ZGFJZlhaNmVSMF9qUXxBQ3Jtc0traXpnU0RueXBONi1sUlIwRUwwb3dvMTZvVmI0SWJ6STloZ2hJMElDdWQtaHI5cDRpSkc5Q2daRmVvT1VjaUZrakw4V3pjNXhsTGh5MWltdDZDYUNkX0lINWZwNFV6WmllTWJDVmpnbHFWQUZYVWUxVQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Ffitechefi.com%2Fproduct%2F50004-9-easy-install-fuel-bung-and-seal%2F
Mite be a good idea to insert that magnet close to the drilling area from another point of entry into the tank…
Agreed. Thanks!
@@FastMonty last week i had to make my own home made bung plug using hydraulic line fittings in my bobcat mt 50 …. Plastic gas tank
It took me a hole day in the garage to get it done without taking the tank out …. Because my machine is so small that the motor needs to come out for the tank to be pulled out .
Your plug is awesome , but mine cost 9$ Canadien lol … i wanted to do your plug , but i didnt have room to drill a bigger hole
Where do you recommend placing the vent-return line
The line itself? You typically run it with the supply line. I'll try and cover that in my plumbing episode.
No, I ment where on the tank itself.
@@raimaker6343 Ahhh, yeah. I can't remember if I mentioned that, but you mount it as high as possible, furthest away from the pick up tube location. Hope that helps!
Lol I have small balls I’m going to drop the gas tank to do it tanks you help me a lot
Ha! Thanks for the laugh... that's the smartest thing to do. Thanks for the comment.
Part # for vent gas tank
Here you go...www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-50004-9
grease on bit
Good idea. Thanks!
Ummm...carbs have return lines too.
Ummm, not all of em. :)
Filing the tank full of fuel is less likely to blow up than a empty tank.
I don't think my balls are big enough to try that. Let us know how it works out! Or... I guess, if we don't here from you, we'll know??? ha, ha... thanks!
ORB o-ring base
Ahhh, that's logical. Ha, ha... thanks!
Actually it’s o-ring boss
Haha I’m not sure my balls are big enough to get do this the ghetto way 😂
Ha! BIG, Big, big, balls... ha, ha...
hey butnut.... put grease on your drill bit to catch your metal shavings
Good tip, not sure that would catch 100% though.
You missed last week!!!!!
I missed last week? Ohhh, the Quarantine Cruise? Yeah man, I hate to miss, buy have to get this going again. Thanks Ryan!
I believe ORB stands O Ring Back Up
Ohhh, that totally makes sense! Ha, ha... thanks Robert!
O Ring Boss
@@reich15 You made me look it up... it is O Ring Boss. Thanks!
use an impact
Mabye... As long as you can monitor how tight it's getting, it may end up pulling through. Thanks.
@@FastMonty well you can't be an idiot
@@claymahaney6574 or, can you?
@@FastMonty lol
@@FastMonty easy just pay attention
Would this work on a plastic Gas tank?
Unfortunately, No. It will tear right through it. Good question, thanks!