Subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! ruclips.net/channel/UCB2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
Look forward to all your upgrade videos. If you keep the current arrangement rubber isolated the pump to reduce the pump noise, make sure to ground the pump. The in tank pump is simpler, eliminates all the extra hoses in the trunk. Safer, since you do not have fuel hoses in the trunk (passenger compartment) eliminating the possibility of something in the trunk damaging a fuel hose. Quieter, because the gas tank is enclosed and isolated. You have a great build going with really nice video series documentations. Thanks for taking the effort for everyone, inherited a fully restored 68 GTO convertible 4 speed from my brother who was the second owner since 1972. Have lots of plans for upgrades and improvements for the GTO. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Brother! Yeah, I'm definitely leaning towards an in tank pump... I guess that'll be another video. :) Congrats on your 68... it'll be fun! See ya!
Congratulations! When you said how nice it is not to have to feather the accelerator at stoplights I could totally relate ... with a few old school rides I'd owned in the past (I'm old, so they weren't "old school" at the time😬) And oh, that Holley fuel pump sounded like a mini jackhammer 😳
Wow ,l honestly thought that their we're going to be some hiccups and adjustments right on the first test drive. I am speech less and happy for you that there were no problems and nice bonus to have FiTech offer to tune it to be dialed in . Freaking great video Mike as always but this has to be extra special for you . Take her for another spin for me.😂👍✌
I put the Fitech 600 Power adder on my 78 TA and couldn’t be happier! I also put on a turbo, and the Fitech has made it so easy..I had duel inline Fitech 255lph pumps which worked, but sounded like I ran over a riding mower! We are putting in the tank/pump combo 58118 with a 440lph this winter, so bye bye under car noise!
Nice Mike! Great to hear it worked as seamless as mine... I too yanked my loud ass pump. Have you seen my latest pump install? It took some work, but it is dead silent, and it's the production pump for Gen 5 Camaro's... check it out... it also has NO return line. ruclips.net/video/is6abUtrVRI/видео.html Keep at it!
Hi Mike, greetings from the UK. I'm a new subscriber and found your channel while looking for AN fittings tutorials, Love the AN radiator hose! this is the best Fitech video I've found and now have the confidence to start the swap on my '72 F100 I bought from Oklahoma a couple of years back. love your GTO. Richard.
Well, yeah... there aren't many Carb experts out there, like yourself. :) That's why the trend is to convert to EFI for us illiterate carb guys. ha, ha..
Watching this series has me convinced I'm going with a new fuel tank with an in tank fuel pump and dual lines, this seems way more leak prone and complicated then it needs to be, plus that fuel pump sound level is atrocious, I just can't get on board with so many fuel lines running all around the car, especially in the trunk, by the time you realized something leaked it would be a huge mess...thank you for sharing and documenting it without bias 👍
Thanks Brian! Yeah, that pump is obnoxious. I think Holley makes an in tank returnless pump... I'll have to do some research on that, and make another video for my Plan B fuel supply :) I appreciate the comment. Thanks!
Thanks Scott. I can't wait myself. Should be fun to see what kind of power we can put down. I wish I had a carb dyno to compare it too... oh well, we shall see! Thanks again for the comment.
Congrats! Your car is sounding, and looking great. Really enjoying your videos, appreciate your attention to detail. Like you, I have the same "crew" of mechanics - Me, Myself, and I lol!
Agreed, it takes some serious expertise to get a carb to perform the same, especially during cold starts. (I no longer have to feather the throttle to keep it running when cold, which is HUGE with Aluminum heads) No muss, no fuss, starts every time. :)
@@FastMonty two channels got my mind right on old school systems are Unity Motorsports Garage ( Andy Wood ) and Thunderhead289. If you get bored, check them out.
The Vacuum? You mean the PCV line? I have a provision in my manifold for that, just below the Throttle Body/Carb flange. If you don't have the manifold connection, then you use the 3/8" tube on the bottom of the throttle body. Hope that helps!
@@FastMonty not the sorce but where does it go...ton top of the go fuel because you were using it as the regulator or the on on the side of the efi unit its self...because in my head you have to provide it vacuum to work..
@@thinds8810 Hmmm, still not sure what you're asking... but, there's a ton of vacuum supplied by the manifold that the throttle body, or carb is bolted onto. So, that in itself is sucking a massive amount of air through the Throttle body, or carb. Fuel pressure then sprays fuel into the air stream. Make sense?
So glad you happy with your efi. I too am happy with mine. Side note IAC is idle air control which I'm sure you figured out lol. Yeah you were chasing unicorns because of your fans kicking on causing your alt to draw more amps. same thing happens on AC cars when the clutch kicks in makes the motor work a little harder at idle so the computer adjusts how open the throttle is to maintain idle rpms. Still love ya brother and keep up the fun times.
It's just good practice because some systems will kick on electric fans when the engine reaches operating temperature. That will sometimes cause a voltage spike, affecting the IAC "learning" reading. Hope that helps!
@FastMonty yes it helps. I new you had issues setting iac because fan was kicking on. So was curious what you actually done to set iac and get it stable.
the problem was originally my fuel pump cuts on when i turn my key and cuts off so with that being said...the orange fuel pump wire coming from the fitech i did not need it..i disconnected it ..thats why my truck would not shut off ..everything is fine now ....i had to figure that out by my self ..the fitech technician didnt no shit..wast of time calling them and have to wait on the phone..
yeah, I hear you... almost everyone has different wiring scenario's. I couldn't imagine being a FiTech customer support person, for that reason. I'm glad you figured it out, and thanks for leaving us a story to learn from. See ya!@@thedobermangang3503
You never told us what what you did to adjust the IAC properly. You just said the fans interfered. So is the solution to adjust the IAC without the fans on at a low temp or should the fans be on without kicking on and off?
Sorry about that... Since filming this, I found that the engine temp should be above 135. The fans kicking on don't have much of an affect as first thought, but I do keep the air filter on while setting the IAC. Hope that helps!
Hi Mike it’s been over a year since you installed the Fitech system, are you still happy with it? Have you had any issues? Thanks for all the time and information you put in your videos.
Hey Mike, you probably covered this and I need to go back and watch the series, but why didn't you use an in tank fuel pump. I Installed a Holley sniper on my 69 GTO (looks similiar to yours, except my dad ordered green interior) and other then the initial prime, you don't hear it at all. Car sounds great.
Great question Michael... At the time, I was under the impression an in tank pump required a new baffled tank. Hence, more money. BUT, since filming my procedure, I came across the Sniper in tank (return less) pump... which looks awesome. I will definitely be considering it for my "Plan B" fuel supply. And of course, will film that install too... :) Thanks for sharing, and congrats on your build!
With the amount of "jury rigging" going on with classic car rest/mod etc. someone wouldn't have devised a rubber mount gadget to keep those clicky clacky pumps off the hard body/frames. Body vibration + the solenoids operation = noise.
I’m new to the “hobby” as I’ve heard it called regarding me. I was given a 71 c10 basic 350ci and power glide trans from my mother who was going into hospice care and needed to reduce her “holdings” so government couldn’t seize them. It has a edelbrock x4 but today carburetors are going out like the power in California. Do you find the efi system beneficial for the money?
@@stevesmedsrud4116 Sorry to hear about your Mom... understood about Medicare rules. Anyway, welcome to the hobby. Yes, Fuel Injection is the way to go. No more head aches with cold starts, hot starts, idling around town, Wide open throttle passes, etc... always comes down to idle. :) Anyway, I'm still learning too and will be implementing Electronic Timing control, which is a built in feature of the FiTech system. (That way I can set the timing digitally, versus dicking with distributor weights, and adjustable vacuum advance stuff... yet another benefit of Fuel Injection conversion that I haven't utilized yet) Again, sorry to hear about your Mom, sounds like she has great taste in cars... :)
@@FastMonty Because I just installed a “744”. Ram Air III cam. Advanced 2 degrees, Total timing 40 degrees. In my Tri Power 400, bored .04”. 9.5 : 1 compression. Harland Sharp 1:65 roller rockers. I was just wondering
Excellent video, I have a question I also have GTO (66) it has non original engine (Chevy 454 substantially modified approx 600+++HP ). After having my mechanic (experienced in fitech) fit and set-up the Fitech system. I've massive over fuelling issues during the install and test stage dumping fuel fouling the plugs and fuel going thought-out the engine and into the oil sump. The cars got both good quality MSD dizzy and coil systems. The car does NOT have a MSD Ignition Box fitted, do you or anyone feel I'm losing spark hence not burning the fuel and the system still feeding the fuel, would fitting the MSD box help with this issue. Or any other issues my mechanic might be missing. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, Cheer's Warren (Australia)
Great question, Warren! I've never heard of that issue before. Just thinking out loud... what's the fuel pressure? Does the engine start fine? Does it take forever to start? Like it's flooding? ... if mine doesn't start when cold after three attempts, it will have received three prime shots. (You can hear it "squirt" when you key on) On my fourth attempt, I will hold the pedal down during key on. (Holding the pedal down tells the cpu to NOT do the prime shot) Otherwise, you'll flood it. If the engine runs, I would look into how to pull the data, and study the results. @fitechefi Has some great videos on how to do that. Remember, it's a computer, if it's over fueling, something is telling it to do so. Which means something is wrong in the loop, like there's an exhaust like near the O2 sensor, and it's adding fuel to make up for it, etc. Obviously, I'd also send a note to FiTech for some guidance too. Let me know what you find!
cool video, very informative. My issue I'm having with my fi-tech is that the butterflies are getting stuck in the closed position and i really have to hit that pedal to get them to unstick.(which is bad if i have some traffic around me) Any info regarding that would be helpful. Thanks!!
Frankie, thanks for the comment... yeah, that's not good. So, I just looked at mine... it's not on the car, which makes it easy. My valves do not fully close. I suspect that might be the issue. Have you called FiTech yet? I'd be happy to send you a picture, or short video to show you mine. Just send me an email.
@@FastMonty Thanks for the reply, i'm going to have to try to set that IAC more and hopefully open up the butterflies a bit. surprisingly, fi-tech is the one that told me to adjust the IAC by turning the adjustment screws (both front and back) all the way counter clockwise until it clicks, then turn them a quarter turn clockwise. That I believe is when i started having issues.
@@frankiegee101 yeah, I'd back those screws out and start over. Not sure I'd touch the rear one, when you adjust it again. (My front and rear butterflys are connected, so I could see how they'd bind up if you adjusted the front and rear at the same time.) Let me know how it goes
@@FastMonty well, when i start from the beginning(screws all the way counter clockwise) my IAC steps is around 160ish. I've adjusted the front screw (clockwise) a lot. about half ways in. I felt a click and then more air started rushing into the throttle body. so i backed it off until the air noise stopped. So.....my current IAC steps now is 58. if i continue to screw the front one in more, the idle jumps up and i can hear more air going in. I will tell you though, my butterflies don't feel stuck closed anymore now that i've adjusted the front screw in a lot.
@@frankiegee101 Glad to hear the blades aren't sticking anymore. If you're still concerned about getting that IAC below 10, I would remove the throttle body and reset the blade position on your workbench. Upside down, my blades have the identical angle. I see they're connected by a threaded rod, which is also an adjustment point. Which is why I don't see how the rear screw helps... If you want to go down that path, I'd be happy to send you pics of mine. Just send me an email. fastmontysgarage@gmail.com
I decided on the sniper efi line. They have a master kit with a return less fuel pump inside the tank (Master Kit part# 550-511D). Also, Do you remember what power distribution block you used in your trunk?
Ohhh, I like it! I think I'll be adding that pump on my list of action items. That fuse holder I have is made by XScorpion for ANL fuses. Unfortunately, I don't know the part number. Thanks for sharing your set up!
@@FastMonty ya I have a 383 stroker with a 750 Holley carb and the carb sucks going to order the 30002 kit from them wanted to make sure it makes a difference compared to the carburetor
Thanks! Yeah, it was my understanding that a Fuel Injection ready tank, and pump, were more expensive than the Force Fuel unit. Sooo, I went that route. And yes, I'm regretting the noise of that Holley pump, ha, ha... so, I'm sure there will be an update to this video series in that regard. Thanks for the comment!
Sounds great, glad it's working well on your goat! Would like fuel injection on my 69 goat some day as well, gives a fella hope for the poncho!! Your goat sounds mean going through the gears, music 2 my ears!!
@@FastMonty can u make a video of one month review after installing your efi?I also went that route efi on my 468 big block..I did put my handheld efi device in my ashtray ..I made it all flush so u can close it and open it any time u want lol
@@wheelmanvicful Great idea! Ironically, I did find a problem, which is next week's video. It was an eye opener for me... simple fix. Great idea about the ash tray! I might research that some more... thanks for the comment!
Great question John... yeah, like a 30% increase. I think I went from 6 MPG to 8. bahahahahaaaa... I actually don't know. But, the MPG's should increase, purely based on increased efficiency of an EFI system. Thanks!
@@FastMonty What kinda millage do you get from your Butler's stroker and what size gears are you running in the rear end. I'm curious because thinking of using a 400 and Butler stroker trans 700r4 and probably 343 gears in the rear and FiTech .!!
@@johnkennedy8452 Good question John... welp, if you're going with a stroker motor, does MPG really matter? The hard part is not mashing the pedal where ever you go... bahahhaaaa. I have a 3:55 rear end. And a .68 over drive Tremec TKX, so that aspect of highway cruising saves a ton of gas on it's own. Congrats on the FiTech decision. You're gonna love it.
John I went from a 13 highway on 65 Thunderbird to about 17.5 390 un modified. These are my calculations on my bi-annual trip to Florida from Georgia. My calculations are pretty persistent because I've made four trips a little over four hundred miles and they will come within a mile or two mind you that is with the AC running. I haven't done a winter trip yet that should be much better. Seeing how my compressor is the size of a Prius
Wow, thats a heck of a complicated fuel system. Should have just used a Walboro inline pump and the C5 fuel filter, whisper quiet and a very robust system.
Yeah, I got carried away... I was married to the idea of NO return line. And of course, after all of this, I found Holley's intank pump, which also does NOT need a return line. So, I'll most likely be going with that for a future project. Thanks for the comment!
welp gotta say not impressed with the results. i went back and compared this to your first start and test drive after the engine rebuild video, and essentially, you spent all this money, all this time, all this work......because the carburetor you had on the GTO previously had no choke!! the start up with the carb was just as fast (if not faster) and even smoother than with the carburetor (at least in the first drive video) your complaint that it idled at 1800 with your foot on it until it warmed up is simply because the carburetor has no choke the acceleration right out of the driveway was smoother with the efi ill give you that. but the driving and the startup (which is the whole reason people rave about this EFI garbage) was no faster, and i could see no improvements unless there are some dyno numbers where you gained significant power gains with the EFI, in my opinion, the money and labor and time was not worth it for the EFI conversion
Subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! ruclips.net/channel/UCB2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
FiTech was hands down the best investment I made for my Pontiac. Awesome video and congrats on the first drive!
Thanks Shane! If feel the same way.
Look forward to all your upgrade videos. If you keep the current arrangement rubber isolated the pump to reduce the pump noise, make sure to ground the pump. The in tank pump is simpler, eliminates all the extra hoses in the trunk. Safer, since you do not have fuel hoses in the trunk (passenger compartment) eliminating the possibility of something in the trunk damaging a fuel hose. Quieter, because the gas tank is enclosed and isolated. You have a great build going with really nice video series documentations. Thanks for taking the effort for everyone, inherited a fully restored 68 GTO convertible 4 speed from my brother who was the second owner since 1972. Have lots of plans for upgrades and improvements for the GTO. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Brother! Yeah, I'm definitely leaning towards an in tank pump... I guess that'll be another video. :) Congrats on your 68... it'll be fun! See ya!
Congratulations! When you said how nice it is not to have to feather the accelerator at stoplights I could totally relate ... with a few old school rides I'd owned in the past (I'm old, so they weren't "old school" at the time😬)
And oh, that Holley fuel pump sounded like a mini jackhammer 😳
Ha! Yeah that pump's gotta go... need to research some options, and of course, post a video about it some day. Thanks for the comment!
Wow ,l honestly thought that their we're going to be some hiccups and adjustments right on the first test drive. I am speech less and happy for you that there were no problems and nice bonus to have FiTech offer to tune it to be dialed in . Freaking great video Mike as always but this has to be extra special for you . Take her for another spin for me.😂👍✌
Thanks John! I too was expecting something not to go right... As you can tell, it is almost too much fun to drive. Thanks again!
👍
this guy just sold me on EFI.
Ha! I can't say enough about cold starting and never stalling... git er dun!
I put the Fitech 600 Power adder on my 78 TA and couldn’t be happier! I also put on a turbo, and the Fitech has made it so easy..I had duel inline Fitech 255lph pumps which worked, but sounded like I ran over a riding mower! We are putting in the tank/pump combo 58118 with a 440lph this winter, so bye bye under car noise!
Nice Mike! Great to hear it worked as seamless as mine... I too yanked my loud ass pump. Have you seen my latest pump install? It took some work, but it is dead silent, and it's the production pump for Gen 5 Camaro's... check it out... it also has NO return line. ruclips.net/video/is6abUtrVRI/видео.html Keep at it!
Hi Mike, greetings from the UK. I'm a new subscriber and found your channel while looking for AN fittings tutorials, Love the AN radiator hose! this is the best Fitech video I've found and now have the confidence to start the swap on my '72 F100 I bought from Oklahoma a couple of years back. love your GTO. Richard.
Thanks Richard! Welcome to the channel... congrats on your new project. Yeah, the FiTech system is awesome, you're gonna love it.
Awesome, glad it worked so well for you right out the box, Mike. I'm in for the dyno video.
Ha! Thanks... I can't wait for the dyno too!
Good I haven't found that head pressure spec on the holley pump @ 12", very cool! thanks!
Yup, it'll work fine where it is... but, I'll be searching for something quieter. Will add to my "to-do" list, for sure.
Awesome results, that's what I was looking for!!!! But I can get most all of that, while more difficulty, with a carb properly set up, hmmm!
Well, yeah... there aren't many Carb experts out there, like yourself. :) That's why the trend is to convert to EFI for us illiterate carb guys. ha, ha..
Watching this series has me convinced I'm going with a new fuel tank with an in tank fuel pump and dual lines, this seems way more leak prone and complicated then it needs to be, plus that fuel pump sound level is atrocious, I just can't get on board with so many fuel lines running all around the car, especially in the trunk, by the time you realized something leaked it would be a huge mess...thank you for sharing and documenting it without bias 👍
Thanks Brian! Yeah, that pump is obnoxious. I think Holley makes an in tank returnless pump... I'll have to do some research on that, and make another video for my Plan B fuel supply :) I appreciate the comment. Thanks!
Can't wait to finish my car and run my efi as well ugh..definitely subscribing to your channel..keep up the good work
I feel your pain... you'll get there. Welcome to the FMG family... ask questions, as much as you can... ha, ha...
It sounds really smooth. I can't wait to see how it runs once they get it tuned. It will be interesting to see how they get everything dialed in.
Thanks Scott. I can't wait myself. Should be fun to see what kind of power we can put down. I wish I had a carb dyno to compare it too... oh well, we shall see! Thanks again for the comment.
Runs good, very happy for you, congratulation! Can't wait for the tuning video. Thanks for posting.
I can't wait for the tuning video too! Thanks for watching!
Congrats! Your car is sounding, and looking great. Really enjoying your videos, appreciate your attention to detail. Like you, I have the same "crew" of mechanics - Me, Myself, and I lol!
Ha! Thanks Paul. Yup, those three mechanics are not cheap. Ha, ha... see ya on the next project!
You can get a carb to do the same thing, it just takes more hands on work to do it.
The compensation to altitude changes with EFI is what I like.
Agreed, it takes some serious expertise to get a carb to perform the same, especially during cold starts. (I no longer have to feather the throttle to keep it running when cold, which is HUGE with Aluminum heads) No muss, no fuss, starts every time. :)
@@FastMonty two channels got my mind right on old school systems are Unity Motorsports Garage ( Andy Wood ) and Thunderhead289. If you get bored, check them out.
Nice I felt your excitement
Thanks! I still can't get over how steady the RPM is cold, or hot. Love it. Thanks again for the comment!
Best directions on the web.
Thanks! That means a lot... thanks for the comment.
When you set this up did you hook up a vacuum to the throttle body or the fuel cell regulator...couldnt tell
The Vacuum? You mean the PCV line? I have a provision in my manifold for that, just below the Throttle Body/Carb flange. If you don't have the manifold connection, then you use the 3/8" tube on the bottom of the throttle body. Hope that helps!
@@FastMonty not the sorce but where does it go...ton top of the go fuel because you were using it as the regulator or the on on the side of the efi unit its self...because in my head you have to provide it vacuum to work..
@@thinds8810 Hmmm, still not sure what you're asking... but, there's a ton of vacuum supplied by the manifold that the throttle body, or carb is bolted onto. So, that in itself is sucking a massive amount of air through the Throttle body, or carb. Fuel pressure then sprays fuel into the air stream. Make sense?
So glad you happy with your efi. I too am happy with mine. Side note IAC is idle air control which I'm sure you figured out lol. Yeah you were chasing unicorns because of your fans kicking on causing your alt to draw more amps. same thing happens on AC cars when the clutch kicks in makes the motor work a little harder at idle so the computer adjusts how open the throttle is to maintain idle rpms. Still love ya brother and keep up the fun times.
Thanks Justin! Yup, nothing but fun... see ya!
right now im dealing with trying to get the right bracket for it i got 700r4
The parts search is never over. :) Good luck!
To clarify, do you need to set the iac before it reaches operating temp??
It's just good practice because some systems will kick on electric fans when the engine reaches operating temperature. That will sometimes cause a voltage spike, affecting the IAC "learning" reading. Hope that helps!
@FastMonty yes it helps. I new you had issues setting iac because fan was kicking on. So was curious what you actually done to set iac and get it stable.
good to hear... I now also keep the air filter on too... keeping it as "real life" during the adjustment. Have fun! @@dbohann66
Hey my brother I finally got it fix where I can cut my truck off with the key
Awesome! What was the issue?
the problem was originally my fuel pump cuts on when i turn my key and cuts off so with that being said...the orange fuel pump wire coming from the fitech i did not need it..i disconnected it ..thats why my truck would not shut off ..everything is fine now ....i had to figure that out by my self ..the fitech technician didnt no shit..wast of time calling them and have to wait on the phone..
yeah, I hear you... almost everyone has different wiring scenario's. I couldn't imagine being a FiTech customer support person, for that reason. I'm glad you figured it out, and thanks for leaving us a story to learn from. See ya!@@thedobermangang3503
You never told us what what you did to adjust the IAC properly. You just said the fans interfered. So is the solution to adjust the IAC without the fans on at a low temp or should the fans be on without kicking on and off?
Sorry about that... Since filming this, I found that the engine temp should be above 135. The fans kicking on don't have much of an affect as first thought, but I do keep the air filter on while setting the IAC. Hope that helps!
Hi Mike it’s been over a year since you installed the Fitech system, are you still happy with it? Have you had any issues? Thanks for all the time and information you put in your videos.
Yes sir! Ironically, next video I'll be on the FiTech Dyno. We'll see how she does. :) Thanks for checking in.
I'm so close to ordering the same kit. We have similar setups.
I'll let you know when it's on the way.
Thanks for filming and sharing
Pete
Thanks Pete... I'm excited for you, can't wait to see and hear your final result. Glad my videos were helpful.
There is soo much to this stuff if you really, and me, get more into it.
There always is. :)
Sounds great Mike, good job
Thanks Bill!
It would be quieter under the trunk next to the tank, but ya that's why I generally go with carters.
Yeah, that's where I had my Carter, backup carb pump. I shoulda left it, and plumbed from that. Oh well... :)
Hey Mike, you probably covered this and I need to go back and watch the series, but why didn't you use an in tank fuel pump. I Installed a Holley sniper on my 69 GTO (looks similiar to yours, except my dad ordered green interior) and other then the initial prime, you don't hear it at all. Car sounds great.
Great question Michael... At the time, I was under the impression an in tank pump required a new baffled tank. Hence, more money. BUT, since filming my procedure, I came across the Sniper in tank (return less) pump... which looks awesome. I will definitely be considering it for my "Plan B" fuel supply. And of course, will film that install too... :) Thanks for sharing, and congrats on your build!
With the amount of "jury rigging" going on with classic car rest/mod etc. someone wouldn't have devised a rubber mount gadget to keep those clicky clacky pumps off the hard body/frames. Body vibration + the solenoids operation = noise.
Agreed! Ended changing that whole thing out for an in tank Camaro SS pump. Super Silent now. :)
I’m new to the “hobby” as I’ve heard it called regarding me. I was given a 71 c10 basic 350ci and power glide trans from my mother who was going into hospice care and needed to reduce her “holdings” so government couldn’t seize them. It has a edelbrock x4 but today carburetors are going out like the power in California. Do you find the efi system beneficial for the money?
@@stevesmedsrud4116 Sorry to hear about your Mom... understood about Medicare rules. Anyway, welcome to the hobby. Yes, Fuel Injection is the way to go. No more head aches with cold starts, hot starts, idling around town, Wide open throttle passes, etc... always comes down to idle. :) Anyway, I'm still learning too and will be implementing Electronic Timing control, which is a built in feature of the FiTech system. (That way I can set the timing digitally, versus dicking with distributor weights, and adjustable vacuum advance stuff... yet another benefit of Fuel Injection conversion that I haven't utilized yet) Again, sorry to hear about your Mom, sounds like she has great taste in cars... :)
What camshaft are you running? And where did you set total timing?
I have a custom Butler Roller Cam 230/236, total timing is 38 degrees. Why do you ask?
@@FastMonty Because I just installed a “744”. Ram Air III cam. Advanced 2 degrees, Total timing 40 degrees. In my Tri Power 400, bored .04”. 9.5 : 1 compression. Harland Sharp 1:65 roller rockers. I was just wondering
@@FastMonty I was just curious
@@FastMonty I had a “068” cam in same engine for 12 years,,,
@@davegentry2380 Ohhh, nice! Sounds like a fun beast you have there. :)
Excellent video, I have a question I also have GTO (66) it has non original engine (Chevy 454 substantially modified approx 600+++HP ). After having my mechanic (experienced in fitech) fit and set-up the Fitech system. I've massive over fuelling issues during the install and test stage dumping fuel fouling the plugs and fuel going thought-out the engine and into the oil sump. The cars got both good quality MSD dizzy and coil systems. The car does NOT have a MSD Ignition Box fitted, do you or anyone feel I'm losing spark hence not burning the fuel and the system still feeding the fuel, would fitting the MSD box help with this issue. Or any other issues my mechanic might be missing. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, Cheer's Warren (Australia)
Great question, Warren! I've never heard of that issue before. Just thinking out loud... what's the fuel pressure? Does the engine start fine? Does it take forever to start? Like it's flooding? ... if mine doesn't start when cold after three attempts, it will have received three prime shots. (You can hear it "squirt" when you key on) On my fourth attempt, I will hold the pedal down during key on. (Holding the pedal down tells the cpu to NOT do the prime shot) Otherwise, you'll flood it. If the engine runs, I would look into how to pull the data, and study the results. @fitechefi Has some great videos on how to do that. Remember, it's a computer, if it's over fueling, something is telling it to do so. Which means something is wrong in the loop, like there's an exhaust like near the O2 sensor, and it's adding fuel to make up for it, etc. Obviously, I'd also send a note to FiTech for some guidance too. Let me know what you find!
cool video, very informative. My issue I'm having with my fi-tech is that the butterflies are getting stuck in the closed position and i really have to hit that pedal to get them to unstick.(which is bad if i have some traffic around me) Any info regarding that would be helpful. Thanks!!
Frankie, thanks for the comment... yeah, that's not good. So, I just looked at mine... it's not on the car, which makes it easy. My valves do not fully close. I suspect that might be the issue. Have you called FiTech yet? I'd be happy to send you a picture, or short video to show you mine. Just send me an email.
@@FastMonty Thanks for the reply, i'm going to have to try to set that IAC more and hopefully open up the butterflies a bit. surprisingly, fi-tech is the one that told me to adjust the IAC by turning the adjustment screws (both front and back) all the way counter clockwise until it clicks, then turn them a quarter turn clockwise. That I believe is when i started having issues.
@@frankiegee101 yeah, I'd back those screws out and start over. Not sure I'd touch the rear one, when you adjust it again. (My front and rear butterflys are connected, so I could see how they'd bind up if you adjusted the front and rear at the same time.) Let me know how it goes
@@FastMonty well, when i start from the beginning(screws all the way counter clockwise) my IAC steps is around 160ish. I've adjusted the front screw (clockwise) a lot. about half ways in. I felt a click and then more air started rushing into the throttle body. so i backed it off until the air noise stopped. So.....my current IAC steps now is 58. if i continue to screw the front one in more, the idle jumps up and i can hear more air going in. I will tell you though, my butterflies don't feel stuck closed anymore now that i've adjusted the front screw in a lot.
@@frankiegee101 Glad to hear the blades aren't sticking anymore. If you're still concerned about getting that IAC below 10, I would remove the throttle body and reset the blade position on your workbench. Upside down, my blades have the identical angle. I see they're connected by a threaded rod, which is also an adjustment point. Which is why I don't see how the rear screw helps... If you want to go down that path, I'd be happy to send you pics of mine. Just send me an email. fastmontysgarage@gmail.com
Just by lowering the holley pump will also quite it down some, less strain on the pump.
Makes sense... but, still too loud. I'm changing it soon. Stay tuned!
Yup, that did look like a lot of fun.
Ha, ha... thanks John!
I decided on the sniper efi line. They have a master kit with a return less fuel pump inside the tank (Master Kit part# 550-511D). Also, Do you remember what power distribution block you used in your trunk?
Ohhh, I like it! I think I'll be adding that pump on my list of action items. That fuse holder I have is made by XScorpion for ANL fuses. Unfortunately, I don't know the part number. Thanks for sharing your set up!
How is it holding up? I want to buy the same kit but heard mixed reviews
It's running great! I think I also heard that FiTEch now has a three year warranty? Might check out their website.
@@FastMonty I want to get this same kit I want something reliable and that works really good , u don’t have any problems with it ?
@@FastMonty do you recommend this kit for my sbc 383 stroker ?
@@EffectsExe Assuming you want a really nice streetable hotrod, and you're currently using a carburetor, hell yes! (Mine's a 470 stroker)
@@FastMonty ya I have a 383 stroker with a 750 Holley carb and the carb sucks going to order the 30002 kit from them wanted to make sure it makes a difference compared to the carburetor
Nice work mike, but just curious on why you didn't just go with a FiTech tank with intank pump ??
Thanks! Yeah, it was my understanding that a Fuel Injection ready tank, and pump, were more expensive than the Force Fuel unit. Sooo, I went that route. And yes, I'm regretting the noise of that Holley pump, ha, ha... so, I'm sure there will be an update to this video series in that regard. Thanks for the comment!
Is that the iac whistling I hear when you accelerate
The carb did that too... I think it's the massive vacuum going on. :)
Sounds great, glad it's working well on your goat! Would like fuel injection on my 69 goat some day as well, gives a fella hope for the poncho!! Your goat sounds mean going through the gears, music 2 my ears!!
Thanks Bane! Yeah, sooo much fun to drive, and even more fun taking fast corners.
Did you ever get it tuned?
Not yet... it's on my list! It's still running great though... thanks!
@@FastMonty Ok. You have great videos by the way. Strange so few views and we see idiots like the humble mechanic instead.
@@jason.arthur.taylor Ha! Thanks! I'll have to check out that other channel. Thanks again,
I put my fuel pump outside my car on the bottom of it..because it was way to loud lol
Ha! Too funny... I had a Carter unit underneath the car, before this system. I should of kept it there. Dang it. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty can u make a video of one month review after installing your efi?I also went that route efi on my 468 big block..I did put my handheld efi device in my ashtray ..I made it all flush so u can close it and open it any time u want lol
@@wheelmanvicful Great idea! Ironically, I did find a problem, which is next week's video. It was an eye opener for me... simple fix. Great idea about the ash tray! I might research that some more... thanks for the comment!
I'm sure you have worked out by now that if you only select 2 items on Large Gauges you will get a whole new screen come up.
Thanks Greg... yeah, I did figure it out. Thanks for the comment, it'll help others too.
Have you expected any fuel improvements in mpg . I have heard that F.i. is more m.p.g's
Great question John... yeah, like a 30% increase. I think I went from 6 MPG to 8. bahahahahaaaa... I actually don't know. But, the MPG's should increase, purely based on increased efficiency of an EFI system. Thanks!
@@FastMonty What kinda millage do you get from your Butler's stroker and what size gears are you running in the rear end. I'm curious because thinking of using a 400 and Butler stroker trans 700r4 and probably 343 gears in the rear and FiTech .!!
@@johnkennedy8452 Good question John... welp, if you're going with a stroker motor, does MPG really matter? The hard part is not mashing the pedal where ever you go... bahahhaaaa. I have a 3:55 rear end. And a .68 over drive Tremec TKX, so that aspect of highway cruising saves a ton of gas on it's own. Congrats on the FiTech decision. You're gonna love it.
John I went from a 13 highway on 65 Thunderbird to about 17.5 390 un modified. These are my calculations on my bi-annual trip to Florida from Georgia. My calculations are pretty persistent because I've made four trips a little over four hundred miles and they will come within a mile or two mind you that is with the AC running. I haven't done a winter trip yet that should be much better. Seeing how my compressor is the size of a Prius
With the closer view, on the lines they are not as direct, as first thought you may very well have enough slack, but i'll deliberately do more.
Thanks Mark! Hope all is well
@@FastMonty Yes it is now, had some medical stuff. Doing a solar boat/rv and planning on getting to my Monty soon! Thanks for asking!
@@markjackson6829 Glad you're still at it... see ya soon!
Aeromotive gas tank next ?
Ha, ha... yeah, gotta figure something out. That Holley pump was way louder than I want it to be. Thanks for watching!
What intake do you have?
In this video, it's a RPM Performer. But, changes are a comin. :)
Wow, thats a heck of a complicated fuel system. Should have just used a Walboro inline pump and the C5 fuel filter, whisper quiet and a very robust system.
Yeah, I got carried away... I was married to the idea of NO return line. And of course, after all of this, I found Holley's intank pump, which also does NOT need a return line. So, I'll most likely be going with that for a future project. Thanks for the comment!
170* coolant temp prity low i keep my cars at 195 200
Agreed. Probably going to bump it up to a 185 T Stat. Thanks for watching!
Cool. Sounds like your old carb was junk.
Wanna buy it? Ha, ha... Thanks for watching!
Fuel pump shouldn't be that loud
Crazy, right? I just found out that Holley makes an in tank pump, with no return... I'm gonna add that to my list for a possible Plan B.
@@FastMonty I woke highly recommend an in tank pump is the way to go. Fitech makes a fuel supply station you could check out
@@punishergto5182 I will! Thanks Brother!
welp gotta say not impressed with the results. i went back and compared this to your first start and test drive after the engine rebuild video, and essentially, you spent all this money, all this time, all this work......because the carburetor you had on the GTO previously had no choke!!
the start up with the carb was just as fast (if not faster) and even smoother than with the carburetor (at least in the first drive video)
your complaint that it idled at 1800 with your foot on it until it warmed up is simply because the carburetor has no choke
the acceleration right out of the driveway was smoother with the efi ill give you that.
but the driving and the startup (which is the whole reason people rave about this EFI garbage) was no faster, and i could see no improvements
unless there are some dyno numbers where you gained significant power gains with the EFI, in my opinion, the money and labor and time was not worth it for the EFI conversion
As I said in the beginning, there's nothing wrong with loving your carb. Thanks!