Thanks for the good videos. These are important for the general public to know about. Congrats to you, sir. I will be installing the 650 hp fitech on my pro street 69 camaro. It is running a built to the hilt 434 dart block and howards guts. I hope it all works good. I will be doing it this week.
Hello Pete. I have a pertronix dist. and second strike box on this camaro. I will be receiving the fuel injection kit now tomorrow. Will that system work with the dist. and box I have??? Thanks for any info. Gregory
FiTech can do HEI and it’s in the instructions for the 600hp Go 4. I run a HEI style ready to run dist. Not a true HEI but they do work with HEI per fitech.
Wrote to you a few weeks ago, wanted to give you an update. Although my FiTech needs a professional tune done, I drove my big block Nova to the power tour in Memphis. Unfortunately had Electricial issues when I got there, but got 17mpg when people with snipers were getting 12mpg and were thrilled with that. Starting to like the FiTech more every day. lol
I have the Fitech Ultimate LS and even though its not the same unit you are working on....You have helped me a lot! Hope to get my Truck running here soon...Thanks for your Time to make these videos Very Helpful Sir Pete
good video . thanks! I had to turn the IAC screw while my daughter watched the rod end on the tps side. Once she saw it moving to the proper point she was able to slide new sensor on. Remember to then go back through fitech steps to reset your tps to 0.0 and the set your IAC. Fitech has a video on yt about this.
i got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...
The worst thing is that after installing the efi, they don't want to install efi control timing, n the most important! getting the efi dial in on dyno by a good tunner. Self learning could only do so much.
Yep. It’s pretty easy to install if you don’t use the timing control. But then you’re only using half of the EFI’s capability. It’s pretty nice to be able to just add a couple of degrees at a time and watch the power go up on a dyno vs recurving a distributor.
Anyone know what that vacuum item over the tps sensor does. And does it have to be plugged in if you’re not using a return line on the throttle body. I need that vacuum port for my vacuum modulator on my trans.
I have an LS3 motor with a FiTech unit…keeps coming up with 4 different codes, TPS, IAC, fan relay (480,481) and once motor is warm if I stop the car then it doesn’t want to start until the motor and assuming the starter is cool then it will start if I try to continue to crank it it will quickly run the battery down to nothing
When you just have the key on with the engine off, does the throttle position sensor read 0-100% if you press the pedal down slowly? Do you have electric fans hooked up?
First I would make sure all of the basic engine settings were correct for your engine. Especially the displacement and injector size. Then make sure all of the sensors are reading correctly. If those are correct then there is probably only a couple of things it could be. High fuel pressure or a skewed oxygen sensor. If you’re using the built-in fuel pressure regulator in the FiTech, it’s probably ok. If you are using some kind of external fuel pressure regulator, make sure it’s at 58psi. Take a look at the a/f ratio that the o2 sensor is reading. If it’s reading lean then the computer will compensate by adding fuel and fouling out your spark plugs. You can see how much it’s learning in the handheld screen. If it’s positive percentage it’s adding fuel based off of the o2 readings. If it’s “minus” % then it was actually running rich and the computer is trying to compensate by pulling fuel away. I would lean towards a bad o2 sensor or an exhaust leak near the o2 sensor. Most of these aftermarket EFI systems use a Bosch o2 sensor and they are kind of prone to failure. When they fail, the start to read lean and then the FiTech computer starts to dump fuel to compensate for the bad data that it’s receiving from the skewed o2 sensor. Hope this long winded response helped.
To fix this. Remove fi tech and then dispose into the round can Order a edelbrock unit install. Cant go wrong with edelbrock. Backed with years of reliability.
The problem is that the carburetor is stuck with what you set it to. The efi system can adjust for different environmental conditions. I’d go efi over carb any day.
Your ported vacuum should not have vacuum until the engine is revved up some because it references above the throttle blades. Are you trying to run a vacuum advance distributor with ported vacuum? I use full manifold vacuum. Or better yet, use the FiTech to control the timing and lock out the distributor.
@@PetesGarageandperformance want to use ported vacuum for timing. Base timing at 12° advance. Mechanical timing advances it 10° more, but at 2000 rpm only advances 2 more degrees for total of 26. Manifold vacuum advances to total of 46. Way too much. At what rpm will I see ported vacuum with no load?
@@mikeburnett7028 I have no idea at what rpm the ported vacuum should come in. It all depends on how much airflow there is over the orifice. I would personally use the FiTech to control the timing. But if you’re dead set on using mechanical timing, I would use manifold vacuum and a distributor that has an adjustable vacuum diaphragm and springs and bushings. What distributor are you using and what’s the engine combo?
@@PetesGarageandperformance running an HEI distributor. Was on the car when I purchased it. Cannot find on my handheld where to switch from tach to vr/ coil like in some videos so don’t think I could switch distributors if I wanted. Just had my 402 Chevy rebuilt over the winter and want to make sure all settings are good. Can’t find anyone in northern Indiana or southern Michigan that will touch FiTech, only Holley. Don’t really want to spend another $2000 for a sniper. Wish I had your phone# so we could talk. Leaving next Sunday on power tour and just want it to run the best I can get it. Thanks for your time. I guess it’ll have to do till I can find a pro.
Have a question: around 4:28 you mention that “the FiTech cannot do HEI” . I have the 30003 Go Street hooked up to HEI and the manual shows HEI hookup capability in a diagram with directions. The manual for your model in the video also shows HEI capability with a diagram. Is there an issue that I don’t know about that’s well known to most people about FiTech not working with HEI ? Or is it just not working the timing control of HEI ? There’s a few these tips/tricks that people have figured out that’s not published in the directions and “not really working with HEI” might be one of them. I’ve only just started & idled my car with the FiTech with HEI so I’d rather fix now that later .
In my opinion, you’re only using the EFI system to 50% of its potential if you don’t use the timing control. But it is probably easier to get running when you’re doing a fuel only setup.
@@PetesGarageandperformance mine will start fine and as soon as the idle goes down or i drop it in gear it stalls... fuel pump sounds like it is easy too loud as well
So yea, first thing you say is to check main power and ground. FiTech do not supply a ground on EZ, Go or Adder. Were did you get ground? Yea highly sus right out the gate.
Every one of these that I’ve installed has had a power lead and ground lead on the main power harness that goes to the battery. If yours doesn’t, the harness was possibly built incorrectly.
Mines a paper weight. Just sits the and surges and pops. Spent hours and numerous calls with them to no avail, even had a guy come over thats installed and fooled with many of these and he is stumped. Wasted 2K in my book.
@@PetesGarageandperformance mine is nothing but issues put on wife 56 chevy gonna throw it in a fire and watch it burn with the money i wasted put a carb back on car runs great how come gm builds a throttle body injection good for thousands of miles these people cant
Thanks for the good videos. These are important for the general public to know about. Congrats to you, sir. I will be installing the 650 hp fitech on my pro street 69 camaro. It is running a built to the hilt 434 dart block and howards guts. I hope it all works good. I will be doing it this week.
Good luck with the install. I would use the timing control to take full advantage of the system.
@@PetesGarageandperformance
Hello Pete. I have a pertronix dist. and second strike box on this camaro. I will be receiving the fuel injection kit now tomorrow. Will that system work with the dist. and box I have??? Thanks for any info. Gregory
I think it will. As long as the distributor has an output that can be referenced by the FiTech computer to synch the spark timing.
FiTech can do HEI and it’s in the instructions for the 600hp Go 4. I run a HEI style ready to run dist. Not a true HEI but they do work with HEI per fitech.
Wrote to you a few weeks ago, wanted to give you an update. Although my FiTech needs a professional tune done, I drove my big block Nova to the power tour in Memphis. Unfortunately had Electricial issues when I got there, but got 17mpg when people with snipers were getting 12mpg and were thrilled with that. Starting to like the FiTech more every day. lol
Nice 👍🏻. 17 mpg isn’t too bad. Do you have overdrive?
Nice 👍🏻. 17 mpg isn’t too bad. Do you have overdrive?
Yes. Have a TREMEC TKX. Purchased from SST. Wonderful people to deal with. I highly recommend them if in the market for an od trans
Do you have a shop in the KC area?
I just do some side work out of my garage in the kc area. Are you needing some work done?
I have the Fitech Ultimate LS and even though its not the same unit you are working on....You have helped me a lot! Hope to get my Truck running here soon...Thanks for your Time to make these videos Very Helpful Sir Pete
Happy to help. Good luck with the install.
Nice informational video.
Hows it running after installing it? I have mix feelings about moving to EFI over my avs2 edelbrock.
good video . thanks! I had to turn the IAC screw while my daughter watched the rod end on the tps side. Once she saw it moving to the proper point she was able to slide new sensor on. Remember to then go back through fitech steps to reset your tps to 0.0 and the set your IAC. Fitech has a video on yt about this.
Did you had a bad TPS also?
@@PetesGarageandperformance yes
i got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...
The worst thing is that after installing the efi, they don't want to install efi control timing, n the most important! getting the efi dial in on dyno by a good tunner. Self learning could only do so much.
Yep. It’s pretty easy to install if you don’t use the timing control. But then you’re only using half of the EFI’s capability. It’s pretty nice to be able to just add a couple of degrees at a time and watch the power go up on a dyno vs recurving a distributor.
Those terminals where you can attach multiple wires. Where did you get that?
Anyone know what that vacuum item over the tps sensor does. And does it have to be plugged in if you’re not using a return line on the throttle body. I need that vacuum port for my vacuum modulator on my trans.
I have an LS3 motor with a FiTech unit…keeps coming up with 4 different codes, TPS, IAC, fan relay (480,481) and once motor is warm if I stop the car then it doesn’t want to start until the motor and assuming the starter is cool then it will start if I try to continue to crank it it will quickly run the battery down to nothing
When you just have the key on with the engine off, does the throttle position sensor read 0-100% if you press the pedal down slowly? Do you have electric fans hooked up?
How do you run fitech with a hei distributor
Do you have a shop in KC area? I live in KC and need help !
Hi Pete I've been having issues with my fitech 600 adder tuning my 383 stroker is running rich please help with my setings
First I would make sure all of the basic engine settings were correct for your engine. Especially the displacement and injector size. Then make sure all of the sensors are reading correctly. If those are correct then there is probably only a couple of things it could be. High fuel pressure or a skewed oxygen sensor.
If you’re using the built-in fuel pressure regulator in the FiTech, it’s probably ok. If you are using some kind of external fuel pressure regulator, make sure it’s at 58psi.
Take a look at the a/f ratio that the o2 sensor is reading. If it’s reading lean then the computer will compensate by adding fuel and fouling out your spark plugs. You can see how much it’s learning in the handheld screen. If it’s positive percentage it’s adding fuel based off of the o2 readings. If it’s “minus” % then it was actually running rich and the computer is trying to compensate by pulling fuel away.
I would lean towards a bad o2 sensor or an exhaust leak near the o2 sensor. Most of these aftermarket EFI systems use a Bosch o2 sensor and they are kind of prone to failure. When they fail, the start to read lean and then the FiTech computer starts to dump fuel to compensate for the bad data that it’s receiving from the skewed o2 sensor. Hope this long winded response helped.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Thank you.
Great video, Pete!
Thanks Kyle. Stay tuned for part two!
To fix this. Remove fi tech and then dispose into the round can
Order a edelbrock unit install. Cant go wrong with edelbrock. Backed with years of reliability.
I’ve never used an Edelbrock efi system. Not too many people go with them from my experience.
Does Webber make those for Edelbrock as well?😂
it seems that it's easier to adjust a carburetor than the FiTech
The problem is that the carburetor is stuck with what you set it to. The efi system can adjust for different environmental conditions. I’d go efi over carb any day.
Good job my friend
Thank you.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Not often I can say that Thanks
I’m not pulling any vacuum from my ported vacuum port on the rear of my FiTech. Any ideas how to fix this problem?
Your ported vacuum should not have vacuum until the engine is revved up some because it references above the throttle blades. Are you trying to run a vacuum advance distributor with ported vacuum? I use full manifold vacuum. Or better yet, use the FiTech to control the timing and lock out the distributor.
@@PetesGarageandperformance want to use ported vacuum for timing. Base timing at 12° advance. Mechanical timing advances it 10° more, but at 2000 rpm only advances 2 more degrees for total of 26. Manifold vacuum advances to total of 46. Way too much. At what rpm will I see ported vacuum with no load?
@@mikeburnett7028 I have no idea at what rpm the ported vacuum should come in. It all depends on how much airflow there is over the orifice. I would personally use the FiTech to control the timing. But if you’re dead set on using mechanical timing, I would use manifold vacuum and a distributor that has an adjustable vacuum diaphragm and springs and bushings. What distributor are you using and what’s the engine combo?
@@PetesGarageandperformance running an HEI distributor. Was on the car when I purchased it. Cannot find on my handheld where to switch from tach to vr/ coil like in some videos so don’t think I could switch distributors if I wanted. Just had my 402 Chevy rebuilt over the winter and want to make sure all settings are good. Can’t find anyone in northern Indiana or southern Michigan that will touch FiTech, only Holley. Don’t really want to spend another $2000 for a sniper. Wish I had your phone# so we could talk. Leaving next Sunday on power tour and just want it to run the best I can get it. Thanks for your time. I guess it’ll have to do till I can find a pro.
Have a question: around 4:28 you mention that “the FiTech cannot do HEI” . I have the 30003 Go Street hooked up to HEI and the manual shows HEI hookup capability in a diagram with directions. The manual for your model in the video also shows HEI capability with a diagram.
Is there an issue that I don’t know about that’s well known to most people about FiTech not working with HEI ? Or is it just not working the timing control of HEI ?
There’s a few these tips/tricks that people have figured out that’s not published in the directions and “not really working with HEI” might be one of them. I’ve only just started & idled my car with the FiTech with HEI so I’d rather fix now that later .
You can run HEI but the FiTech can’t control the timing.
@@PetesGarageandperformance thanks Pete. 👍🏻
In my opinion, you’re only using the EFI system to 50% of its potential if you don’t use the timing control. But it is probably easier to get running when you’re doing a fuel only setup.
Mine will kinda stumble anf cut out under wot from a stand still.
What is the AFR when this is happening? What is your ignition system setup?
IF only these systems had datalogging capabilities.... (SARCASM)!!!
No one in my area works on fitech systems
What was the prob it was brought in for?
He said it would cut in and out when getting onto the highway.
@@PetesGarageandperformance mine will start fine and as soon as the idle goes down or i drop it in gear it stalls... fuel pump sounds like it is easy too loud as well
@@bobbyaustin5992 what’s your idle rpm and timing at? Big cam? What are your IAC counts at idle?
Nice video!
Thank you.
A chevy came with a 302?
Yep. Look up DZ302. It’s actually pretty valuable.
Good info thanks
My Fitech just loses its tune after I turn off the car.
Have you contacted FiTech about this? I haven’t ran into this issue before.
So yea, first thing you say is to check main power and ground. FiTech do not supply a ground on EZ, Go or Adder. Were did you get ground? Yea highly sus right out the gate.
Every one of these that I’ve installed has had a power lead and ground lead on the main power harness that goes to the battery. If yours doesn’t, the harness was possibly built incorrectly.
Mines a paper weight. Just sits the and surges and pops. Spent hours and numerous calls with them to no avail, even had a guy come over thats installed and fooled with many of these and he is stumped. Wasted 2K in my book.
FITECH Has a LOT of ISSUES RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX ...they should pretest every one of them , before there SOLD/SHIPPED !!!...On The Market!!...
Yeah I’ve installed a handful of them and a few have had minor issues.
@@PetesGarageandperformance mine is nothing but issues put on wife 56 chevy gonna throw it in a fire and watch it burn with the money i wasted put a carb back on car runs great how come gm builds a throttle body injection good for thousands of miles these people cant
@@benscoggins3149 what kind of issues have you had?
Electronics🙄🤣