If you want to simplify this deal then go get a distributor from any 80’s-90’s tbi or tpi Chevy V8, remove the ignition module, splice in the two wire connector from msd and boom you’ve got a distributor that fitech can control.
i know im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Khari Keaton Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Nice work! Now that you’re on T198i you just need a switched 12v positive source connected to the AC wire. You can change the AC to 2 step control in the handheld. Once that wire sees 12v you’ll have a spark controlled 2 step activated at whatever rpm you choose.
I could use some help. I understand the variable rotor timing to phase the rotor contact in relation to the inductor position. I have a SBC and could use timing curve guidance for a SBC like you have done your big block. My mechanical valve train is set at 3° advance. I am not certain where to place the base timing, or how much total timing I can get out of the FiTech. I have a Pro Billet MSD distributor which I locked out. But I didn't know I needed to phase the rotor (probably the issue). This is new to me. I am running a roller motor with gear drive timing roller lifters, roller rockers, aluminum 6" rods, Ross forged pistons, Edelbrock 64cc heads, 2.02I and 1.64 valces, and a Fitech Go EFI 600. I could really use help with a timing profile for this engine. Fi-Tech has so many adjustable features.
You need to ensure you have your rotor all phased up correctly first. This will ensure proper function. As for your timing curve, a typical SBC will run a very similar timing curve as what I have in my BBC. I'd say use that as a guide. 14-18 degree base, 34-38 degree at WOT, and 40+ at cruise.
Sbc and Fitech 600 here, I'v set my balancer to 15 degrees @TDC, so the rotor cap, and and adjustable cap is 100% inline (adjustable cap is a zero). Then I adjust the adjustable cap 15 click clock wise (the distributor direction), and lock down? (some says opposite of distributor direction ) Sorry I just need to be sure :- ) I will send a mail to Fitech now, asking for a software upgrade, my system is from 2017 or 18
Thanks for your video, very informative. I have a question about where you set your desired total timing in the handheld. Under which function do you set your desired total timing. Secondly, just to double check. You need to unlock the locked spark adj. when you check your VR drift at 4000. And you want your VR 4000 to match the number you have set in your lock spark adj? Do I have that right? Thank you!
Once you have fully set up and sync'd your distributor and handheld, you then go into Spark Map table (If I remember the name). At 19:23 of the video you can see my spark map settings. These are total timing figures. When doing VR4000 with your handheld set to locked timing, you want those values to match. If they don't, you adjust the VR4000 value till the do.
@@SS454LS6 Thanks for your reply. So should I do the VR4000 for each rpm on my spark map to verify it matches what the timing light says? Or once its synced I can be confident everything is in order? This may sounds stupid but at which value in my spark map will my total timing be? I heard you say in your video you want 48 degrees of total timing in your motor. Normally when you time a motor (as you know) you rev it to around 2500 or where ever it stabilizes and then you can read your total timing. So I would like to have 36 degrees of total timing. Under which value should i input that in my spark map (2500rpm). Thanks for your help
only need to do VR4000 during setup. Once it's synchronized, you don't need to touch it again. If you have not changed your breakpoints (your RPM and KPA values), then you would put 36.0 for 3000 95 kpa. If you want better gas mileage when cruising, add some timing for the 45 kpa values.
You can see a pretty significant difference in MPG between a bad timing curve and a good one. As for how aggressive, not every engine is the same, so you just find the timing that achieves best performance.
At the 17.00 mark your Locked Spark Adjust is set at 33. How do you get that # to stay at 33? Every time my controller is cycled it reverts to 89.6. Great video, and thanks for any help.
Just as it shows. Set it to "locked". Recycling the controller should turn it back to unlocked, but 89.6 sounds very strange. That sounds like a glitch in your controller/software. Unfortunately you may need to call Fitech about that one. Let us know what you find out.
Nice video! Question you did not show the change you made to the connecting plug. Can you tell me if it matters which wire color wire goes to which color wire going to the FiTech? Or does this pretty much act like a switch and the wire paring doesn't matter?
. When installing a magnetic distributor and choose magnetic the program automatically chooses 45* as the reference angle ..This system is fully interfaceable meaning you must put in all variables properly then do the proper calibrations to ensure both jive correctly..It doesnt have a preburnt chip like a production car and download is just a mere outline of the systems capabilities you pick n chose from then finetune... You can do the setup process wrong and the engine will still run but that doesnt make it right because youre actually making the ECU work harder than it has to to keep your ride running and prone to failures when taking long cruises having injectors hang open from overheating etc...... The process is simple...You are first setting the pickup and the reluctor as close to #1 plug possible then the distributor gets locked down for life unless small adjustments are needed during the verification process using a timing light....This initial process is setting up your 45* reference angle. Then after you set the pickups reference point at 45* you set your median timing [mine was 30*] This is the midpoint in which the system will use to scale back n forth in the automatic timing control......... After youve set your new locked for life timing spot and rolled balancer to median timing spot;-[yes I said locked for life!]..;-You next dial-in the rotor pointer to #1 wire on the distributor cap using an old distributor cap with a hole drilled in it at the #1 tower spot and an adjustable rotor...Before you even try starting the engine you pull fuelpump fuse bring up startup gauges on handheld then crank the engine until you see rpm's registering ..If rpm's are registering youre gtg to reinstall fuelpump fuse and then do a TPS autoset before you fire it up for the first time..Also make note at how fast your engine is cranking this will be imprrtant to know in the hot start cranking parameters and the closest correct rpm to set it at....400rpm's is way way to high... After it fires up grab handheld and bring up the static timing area and punch in 15* then hit set then verify with a timing light at the balancer......After the key is switched off the timing will revert back to your simple settings set in the program..
Also in the diagram you were referencing about the pointers thats instructions on how to phase the rotor when using a spark retard for nitrous/turbo etc........... ruclips.net/video/oBSiyeg4XCU/видео.html
Also confused about setting the static timing per your instructions. I thought you set then tell Fitech what the static timing is not the other way around
I’ve watched your video several times. I am in the process of setting up my Fitech the way you have. A bit confused about where you said your timing was out 8* so you adjusted for 33*. That changes your base timing. Did you have to go back and check your new base timing and enter that in the controller?
All you are trying to do initially is sync your timing as seen by a timing light and what the computer says. So when i first started it up, I was 8 degrees off. I rotated until timing light read 33* so it now matched the 33* I had set in the Fitech. Then I adjusted my rotor so the post was centered while at 33*. Then check timing at 4000 rpm and figure out any VR drift.
@@SS454LS6 thanks for the reply. So no idea when you first started where your base timing was? I tried to set it up like Smoked Tirez described but it wouldn’t fire and eventually killed the battery. Hoped to experiment more but now I have total electrical failure like you had. Fun stuff. Thanks for the info.
@@steveh1256 I had my base set to 18 according to timing light. Basically that should be your minimum RPM. Again you are just trying to sync it. My elec failure had nothing to do with the Fitech, hopefully your's is an easy fix too.
@@SS454LS6 With an adjustable rotor, can you just drop the distributor in at 0° TDC, set you base to your minimum advance, lock it in at your middle sweep, then adjust the rotor?
@@Peewee0413 That sounds correct. As long as you get your rotor phased so it is firing in the center of your post at the middle of your sweep timing point (in my case 33 degrees), then it should work great.
i am not sure if i am quite under standing this, your numbers seem high to me. both on initial and all in. my experience tells me somewhere between and 12 and 36 for a street-able big block. School me please!
You're thinking about timing at WOT. At cruise or idle there is no load, thus higher timing is beneficial for leaner mixtures to burn as well as keep the engine cooler. With vacuum advance it is not uncommon to see a BBC see 48-52 degrees of total timing at cruise. At WOT my max total timing is 36 degrees. With electronic timing control I have a little more freedom to build a timing curve to my liking.
No way in hell would I dick with all that, hell that's the nightmares of why we don't fitech needs to have things like that available with there kit! Variable rotor timing ha, what a joke I didn't even know they made such a thing
If you want to simplify this deal then go get a distributor from any 80’s-90’s tbi or tpi Chevy V8, remove the ignition module, splice in the two wire connector from msd and boom you’ve got a distributor that fitech can control.
i know im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot my account password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Jaylen Skyler Instablaster ;)
@Khari Keaton Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Khari Keaton It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Jaylen Skyler No problem :)
Nice work!
Now that you’re on T198i you just need a switched 12v positive source connected to the AC wire. You can change the AC to 2 step control in the handheld.
Once that wire sees 12v you’ll have a spark controlled 2 step activated at whatever rpm you choose.
Yep, I got it working. Just need to finish the video. Thanks again!
My God your microphone is amazing. I can hear the threads as you unscrew things
Fitech uncomplicated and simple, for V8 the best I've seen so far.
I could use some help. I understand the variable rotor timing to phase the rotor contact in relation to the inductor position. I have a SBC and could use timing curve guidance for a SBC like you have done your big block. My mechanical valve train is set at 3° advance. I am not certain where to place the base timing, or how much total timing I can get out of the FiTech. I have a Pro Billet MSD distributor which I locked out. But I didn't know I needed to phase the rotor (probably the issue). This is new to me. I am running a roller motor with gear drive timing roller lifters, roller rockers, aluminum 6" rods, Ross forged pistons, Edelbrock 64cc heads, 2.02I and 1.64 valces, and a Fitech Go EFI 600. I could really use help with a timing profile for this engine. Fi-Tech has so many adjustable features.
You need to ensure you have your rotor all phased up correctly first. This will ensure proper function. As for your timing curve, a typical SBC will run a very similar timing curve as what I have in my BBC. I'd say use that as a guide. 14-18 degree base, 34-38 degree at WOT, and 40+ at cruise.
Sbc and Fitech 600 here, I'v set my balancer to 15 degrees @TDC, so the rotor cap, and and adjustable cap is 100% inline (adjustable cap is a zero). Then I adjust the adjustable cap 15 click clock wise (the distributor direction), and lock down? (some says opposite of distributor direction ) Sorry I just need to be sure :- )
I will send a mail to Fitech now, asking for a software upgrade, my system is from 2017 or 18
Thanks for your video, very informative. I have a question about where you set your desired total timing in the handheld. Under which function do you set your desired total timing. Secondly, just to double check. You need to unlock the locked spark adj. when you check your VR drift at 4000. And you want your VR 4000 to match the number you have set in your lock spark adj? Do I have that right?
Thank you!
Once you have fully set up and sync'd your distributor and handheld, you then go into Spark Map table (If I remember the name). At 19:23 of the video you can see my spark map settings. These are total timing figures.
When doing VR4000 with your handheld set to locked timing, you want those values to match. If they don't, you adjust the VR4000 value till the do.
@@SS454LS6 Thanks for your reply. So should I do the VR4000 for each rpm on my spark map to verify it matches what the timing light says? Or once its synced I can be confident everything is in order? This may sounds stupid but at which value in my spark map will my total timing be? I heard you say in your video you want 48 degrees of total timing in your motor. Normally when you time a motor (as you know) you rev it to around 2500 or where ever it stabilizes and then you can read your total timing. So I would like to have 36 degrees of total timing. Under which value should i input that in my spark map (2500rpm). Thanks for your help
only need to do VR4000 during setup. Once it's synchronized, you don't need to touch it again. If you have not changed your breakpoints (your RPM and KPA values), then you would put 36.0 for 3000 95 kpa. If you want better gas mileage when cruising, add some timing for the 45 kpa values.
@@SS454LS6 perfect, thank you
how much does mpg and performance change moving the timing and how aggressive would you put your timing
You can see a pretty significant difference in MPG between a bad timing curve and a good one. As for how aggressive, not every engine is the same, so you just find the timing that achieves best performance.
Are you positive the breakpoint changes using boost works for adding more spots to the matrix without doing any weird things?
according to all my datalogs the the breakpoints set the way I want are working exactly as intended.
At the 17.00 mark your Locked Spark Adjust is set at 33. How do you get that # to stay at 33? Every time my controller is cycled it reverts to 89.6. Great video, and thanks for any help.
Just as it shows. Set it to "locked". Recycling the controller should turn it back to unlocked, but 89.6 sounds very strange. That sounds like a glitch in your controller/software. Unfortunately you may need to call Fitech about that one. Let us know what you find out.
Nice video! Question you did not show the change you made to the connecting plug. Can you tell me if it matters which wire color wire goes to which color wire going to the FiTech? Or does this pretty much act like a switch and the wire paring doesn't matter?
Yes it matters. If you google MSD pkug wiring for EFI youll see a lot of people have had issues because of incorrect wiring.
Best fitech tuning vids good work. I hope to try timing control again and wait on more info on 2 step?
Thanks. Timing Control video is coming soon.
. When installing a magnetic distributor and choose magnetic the program automatically chooses 45* as the reference angle ..This system is fully interfaceable meaning you must put in all variables properly then do the proper calibrations to ensure both jive correctly..It doesnt have a preburnt chip like a production car and download is just a mere outline of the systems capabilities you pick n chose from then finetune...
You can do the setup process wrong and the engine will still run but that doesnt make it right because youre actually making the ECU work harder than it has to to keep your ride running and prone to failures when taking long cruises having injectors hang open from overheating etc......
The process is simple...You are first setting the pickup and the reluctor as close to #1 plug possible then the distributor gets locked down for life unless small adjustments are needed during the verification process using a timing light....This initial process is setting up your 45* reference angle. Then after you set the pickups reference point at 45* you set your median timing [mine was 30*] This is the midpoint in which the system will use to scale back n forth in the automatic timing control.........
After youve set your new locked for life timing spot and rolled balancer to median timing spot;-[yes I said locked for life!]..;-You next dial-in the rotor pointer to #1 wire on the distributor cap using an old distributor cap with a hole drilled in it at the #1 tower spot and an adjustable rotor...Before you even try starting the engine you pull fuelpump fuse bring up startup gauges on handheld then crank the engine until you see rpm's registering ..If rpm's are registering youre gtg to reinstall fuelpump fuse and then do a TPS autoset before you fire it up for the first time..Also make note at how fast your engine is cranking this will be imprrtant to know in the hot start cranking parameters and the closest correct rpm to set it at....400rpm's is way way to high...
After it fires up grab handheld and bring up the static timing area and punch in 15* then hit set then verify with a timing light at the balancer......After the key is switched off the timing will revert back to your simple settings set in the program..
Also in the diagram you were referencing about the pointers thats instructions on how to phase the rotor when using a spark retard for nitrous/turbo etc...........
ruclips.net/video/oBSiyeg4XCU/видео.html
Do you set the reluctor and rotor to the #1 at TDC or 45*?
Also confused about setting the static timing per your instructions. I thought you set then tell Fitech what the static timing is not the other way around
I’ve watched your video several times. I am in the process of setting up my Fitech the way you have. A bit confused about where you said your timing was out 8* so you adjusted for 33*. That changes your base timing. Did you have to go back and check your new base timing and enter that in the controller?
All you are trying to do initially is sync your timing as seen by a timing light and what the computer says. So when i first started it up, I was 8 degrees off. I rotated until timing light read 33* so it now matched the 33* I had set in the Fitech. Then I adjusted my rotor so the post was centered while at 33*. Then check timing at 4000 rpm and figure out any VR drift.
@@SS454LS6 thanks for the reply. So no idea when you first started where your base timing was? I tried to set it up like Smoked Tirez described but it wouldn’t fire and eventually killed the battery. Hoped to experiment more but now I have total electrical failure like you had. Fun stuff. Thanks for the info.
@@steveh1256 I had my base set to 18 according to timing light. Basically that should be your minimum RPM. Again you are just trying to sync it.
My elec failure had nothing to do with the Fitech, hopefully your's is an easy fix too.
@@SS454LS6 With an adjustable rotor, can you just drop the distributor in at 0° TDC, set you base to your minimum advance, lock it in at your middle sweep, then adjust the rotor?
@@Peewee0413 That sounds correct. As long as you get your rotor phased so it is firing in the center of your post at the middle of your sweep timing point (in my case 33 degrees), then it should work great.
Are you still running this system?
Yes I am.
@@SS454LS6 sweet!
Great video
i am not sure if i am quite under standing this, your numbers seem high to me. both on initial and all in. my experience tells me somewhere between and 12 and 36 for a street-able big block. School me please!
You're thinking about timing at WOT. At cruise or idle there is no load, thus higher timing is beneficial for leaner mixtures to burn as well as keep the engine cooler. With vacuum advance it is not uncommon to see a BBC see 48-52 degrees of total timing at cruise. At WOT my max total timing is 36 degrees. With electronic timing control I have a little more freedom to build a timing curve to my liking.
Leaner mixtures=higher combustion temperature..... adavanced ignition timing = higher combustion temperature..
@@danielray508 highest temp @ 14.7:1, farther you get from that is cooler in either direction. - Engineering Explained channel.
I felt like I was back in calculus class....
🤔🤔🤔 I got lost in the first 10 seconds
this was confusing lol
It is a somewhat confusing process no doubt. What part was confusing, maybe I can help?
@@SS454LS6 i decided not to do timing control. I do appreciate the offer very much though.
No way in hell would I dick with all that, hell that's the nightmares of why we don't fitech needs to have things like that available with there kit! Variable rotor timing ha, what a joke I didn't even know they made such a thing
Buy some good screwdrivers