I can show you how to change the handheld display values. Just inf files. The red square was displayed in the ve table as that’s the cell your car was using for fuel. It does that when you have it connected to the Kline adapter. Makes it good for tuning. It moves as you drive. I can also add some of those missing handheld settings to your procal. I find that it’s best (if able) to tune the ve. Limit trims to 10% at most. Cause, as you’ve seen, the 50% defaults cause over corrections. Lean tip in to rich bog is very common with fitech.
i got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...
Could you give any tips on where to start with the Accel Pump and Fast Accel values. Is there any relationship to follow between the two, like if I make the Pump 10 should I make the Fast 20? Or are they independent? I'm having a similar problem as you when doing snap or prolonged throttle holds. It goes very lean then very rich before correcting. I'm using the Ultimate LS kit but the controllers all work the same.
I was sure I replied to this, maybe it didn't go through. Fast Accel is supposed to be for more abrupt changes in throttle position, like going from cruise to WOT. To start, I tend to change both the same in 5% increments. Be sure to datalog so you can see what changes you need to make, and if your changes are making a difference.
Question..?? Fitech Ultimate L’s Does it do 2 step And if so is there any PDF that you can put inside the link that shows me how to hook it up or you can make a video on it
Apparently my FiTech has a 2 step built in. Runs off the AC wire or something. I plan to look into it this spring and make a video on it. I would imagine the Ultimate LS has it as well.
Theoretically it would eventually correct it. How long would depend on how far out it is. I am not sure it would ever really fix the lean/bog condition. I think self learn will only get as good as "good enough"
On their website. A quick search for FiTech Definitions PDF gave me the file from other sites too. static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/fif-30012_it.pdf
I’ve got a 99 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 with TBI what kind of fitech system would you recommend for that engine type..?? please be specific fitech kit model number
I question if a swap to a FiTech TBI would be any improvement at all. A factory tuned TBI will be better than a self learn aftermarket TBI. Unless I am mistaken, and you are putting that 5.7L in a different car.
Actually the motor that’s in there now is a 5.7L. it runs pretty good but I just wanted a little more from the motor but I think I’m just gonna do it engine swap to a 6.0L
So i put the go efi 600 on my 383 im not a pro by any means and a tuning guy is like 3 hours away! How can i figure out what the engine needs?? This system is not very user friendly for non mechanics
FiTech tells you to use cam setting 1-4 based on how rowdy your engine is. For the most part that is based on vacuum at idle. If your have a very mild engine, use 1, if you have a full on race engine, use 4. That gives you your base tune.
Yeah I have it on camera setting one she runs she runs fine when you gently roll on the gas pedal but when I go to stomp on it I feel like it’s lean as all hell and I’m not really sure the parameters that I need to change that
@@Breadslinger I recommend you do a datalog to know if it's going lean or rich, or both. As mentioned in the video, I would look at adjusting your accel and fast accel. Most likely you will need to throw a bunch of fuel at it.
SS454LS6 yea my target afr is like 13 ish and when i step on it kinda hard it goes lean to like 20 ish but when i slowly roll on it the targets stay pretty close
thank fer video i can not figure out why any one would want to tune with a hand held device as a megasquirt owner i would never use it nor even before i bought ether one of theses units would i use a hand held one resin i never bought a hand held tuner in my life as it just not a professional way at tuning ..looks like i need the hand held junk to plug the computer into ill be calling then as i ant got one if it cost a fortune ill just use it as a throttle body using a megasquirt as i fear they may think the hand held unit is worth a mint wen it truth its a 50 dollar part .i may do a review from start to finish i got a weird felling about this stuff //pardon grammar as i wen to Zee publik schooll;]update FiTech Replacement Handheld Controllers 60013 105 USD with NO CABLES ok one can buy a bosst ready ignition ready microsquirt ecu 340.00 with harness just saying
As with everything else to do with my Fitech, the laptop connection does not work either, so can't tune from there. Nothing but heartache from day one. As I have previous quality EFI system tuning knowledge, my last ditch effor was to try & tune the system with the laptop & get it to run properly.....not going to happen! Goodbye Fitech Junk!
@@SS454LS6 Yes, the program has loaded ok into the laptop and can connect to the hand controller on its own away from the car. It won't connect with the ecu via the K line once it's all running in the vehicle. This was my last hope at getting this junk to operate, but have spent way too many hours and days already. Time to cut it free and move forward. I have not been able to register the car while trying in vain to sort out the POS system.
Really good information - i am about to tune my 468 bbc solid roller in Denmark, and this was very helpfull Thanks alot
I can show you how to change the handheld display values. Just inf files.
The red square was displayed in the ve table as that’s the cell your car was using for fuel. It does that when you have it connected to the Kline adapter. Makes it good for tuning. It moves as you drive.
I can also add some of those missing handheld settings to your procal.
I find that it’s best (if able) to tune the ve. Limit trims to 10% at most. Cause, as you’ve seen, the 50% defaults cause over corrections. Lean tip in to rich bog is very common with fitech.
@ nabors can you email me
@Nabors I also would be interested in learning how to update the labels. Cheers
This is fantastic buddy. Just the info I was looking for... sub'd.
Fitech uncomplicated and simple, for V8 the best I've seen so far.
I can see me now changing shit that I have no clue what I'm doing and end up getting a professional to just tune the damn thing...lol
i got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...
Could you give any tips on where to start with the Accel Pump and Fast Accel values. Is there any relationship to follow between the two, like if I make the Pump 10 should I make the Fast 20? Or are they independent? I'm having a similar problem as you when doing snap or prolonged throttle holds. It goes very lean then very rich before correcting.
I'm using the Ultimate LS kit but the controllers all work the same.
I was sure I replied to this, maybe it didn't go through. Fast Accel is supposed to be for more abrupt changes in throttle position, like going from cruise to WOT. To start, I tend to change both the same in 5% increments. Be sure to datalog so you can see what changes you need to make, and if your changes are making a difference.
I guess my question is can you save presets to swap tunes? Like eco tune, and a sport tune, and a drag tune?
Pretty sure you can. I believe Fitech has the capability to save a tune, but I think you need a laptop to load/save different files.
When using the laptop and you make a adjustment then hit send to ecu do you have to key off and on each time...?
After I am done all my adjustments I do key off/on, but I am not sure if it is necessary.
I’ve tuned on the fly, going down the freeway... once I get it how I like, I key off and make sure it saves
TexasRoadWarrior I do the same with the hand held, but want to see if i could do that with the laptop
Yes
Question..??
Fitech Ultimate L’s
Does it do 2 step And if so is there any PDF that you can put inside the link that shows me how to hook it up or you can make a video on it
Apparently my FiTech has a 2 step built in. Runs off the AC wire or something. I plan to look into it this spring and make a video on it. I would imagine the Ultimate LS has it as well.
So, does the "self learn" ever correct all this? Is this something you have to keep changing?
Theoretically it would eventually correct it. How long would depend on how far out it is. I am not sure it would ever really fix the lean/bog condition. I think self learn will only get as good as "good enough"
@Toxic i agree i have the ls stand alone version,and ive had a hell of a time with it.
Were did you find that print out? I looked over their website and didnt find it.
On their website. A quick search for FiTech Definitions PDF gave me the file from other sites too. static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/fif-30012_it.pdf
I’ve got a 99 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 with TBI
what kind of fitech system would you recommend for that engine type..?? please be specific fitech kit model number
I question if a swap to a FiTech TBI would be any improvement at all. A factory tuned TBI will be better than a self learn aftermarket TBI. Unless I am mistaken, and you are putting that 5.7L in a different car.
Actually the motor that’s in there now is a 5.7L. it runs pretty good but I just wanted a little more from the motor but I think I’m just gonna do it engine swap to a 6.0L
So i put the go efi 600 on my 383 im not a pro by any means and a tuning guy is like 3 hours away! How can i figure out what the engine needs?? This system is not very user friendly for non mechanics
FiTech tells you to use cam setting 1-4 based on how rowdy your engine is. For the most part that is based on vacuum at idle. If your have a very mild engine, use 1, if you have a full on race engine, use 4. That gives you your base tune.
Yeah I have it on camera setting one she runs she runs fine when you gently roll on the gas pedal but when I go to stomp on it I feel like it’s lean as all hell and I’m not really sure the parameters that I need to change that
Cam setting 1
@@Breadslinger I recommend you do a datalog to know if it's going lean or rich, or both. As mentioned in the video, I would look at adjusting your accel and fast accel. Most likely you will need to throw a bunch of fuel at it.
SS454LS6 yea my target afr is like 13 ish and when i step on it kinda hard it goes lean to like 20 ish but when i slowly roll on it the targets stay pretty close
where can I go to download the Fitech pro tuning software...???
If you have a power adder unit, its located in the handheld as shown in the video. If you do not have a power adder, I am not sure if you can get it.
Thanks for the tip I was able to find it no problem...👍🏾
@@Wu373-5 how do you get it out of the handheld into the computer?
Has anyone hooked up a tablet? I would like to mount an android in the car to view data logs etc.
I am not sure it's possible as you will need a usb connection from the handheld to the device.
What fuel pump are you running i have a factory chevy unit
Ricks Tanks 340LPH
thank fer video i can not figure out why any one would want to tune with a hand held device as a megasquirt owner i would never use it nor even before i bought ether one of theses units would i use a hand held one resin i never bought a hand held tuner in my life as it just not a professional way at tuning ..looks like i need the hand held junk to plug the computer into ill be calling then as i ant got one if it cost a fortune ill just use it as a throttle body using a megasquirt as i fear they may think the hand held unit is worth a mint wen it truth its a 50 dollar part .i may do a review from start to finish i got a weird felling about this stuff //pardon grammar as i wen to Zee publik schooll;]update
FiTech Replacement Handheld Controllers 60013 105 USD with NO CABLES ok one can buy a bosst ready ignition ready microsquirt ecu 340.00 with harness just saying
Do you really call that welding ouch lol
Where did I call it ouch?
@@SS454LS6 lol like the Fitech info thanks
As with everything else to do with my Fitech, the laptop connection does not work either, so can't tune from there. Nothing but heartache from day one.
As I have previous quality EFI system tuning knowledge, my last ditch effor was to try & tune the system with the laptop & get it to run properly.....not going to happen!
Goodbye Fitech Junk!
Which Fitech model do you have?
@@SS454LS6 600 PA
@@Danger_mouse The power adder should certainly have pro tune capabilities. Maybe somethin with their interface with your laptop.
@@SS454LS6 Yes, the program has loaded ok into the laptop and can connect to the hand controller on its own away from the car.
It won't connect with the ecu via the K line once it's all running in the vehicle.
This was my last hope at getting this junk to operate, but have spent way too many hours and days already.
Time to cut it free and move forward. I have not been able to register the car while trying in vain to sort out the POS system.