Civic EG B18C5 Round 2- Brake UPGRADES -
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- Опубликовано: 10 янв 2024
- This is part 2 of the hatch build.
We're installing full Integra GSR brakes.
New Pads and rotors
Refreshed calipers
15/16" Master Cylinder
Braided stainless lines
E Brake cables
New rack and tie rods
New bushings and ball joints.
We also address the front being slightly lower than the back. We didn't want the customer to have buy coil overs, so we built a spacer.
This Hatch is so much fun and now has more powerful brakes making it safer. We sure love the old school B series with that amazing Vtec change over.
Here's Part 1 :
• Civic VX B18C Type R ... 
Авто/Мото
That crossover is just mental. That the sound clip we should have put on the Voyager Golden Record
It’s truly amazing. Still the best thing to happen to the NA combustion engine.
Cameron Grady, who helps organize Classic Hondas on the Dragon owns (I believe) Dyno Designs and they machine these universal joints to replace the OEM/aftermarket ones to tighten everything up. You should definitely reach out and get one to show on here.
I know Cameron. I’ll look into that. Thanks Seth.
I appreciate you, Seth! I reached out to John too. Positive I can help get him what he needs. :) These old shift linkages deserve all the love.
I added the Tyrannosaur Tightener on my GSR shift linkage, but there’s still some side to side play. It took out ALL the front/back play. But that side to side play I’m pretty sure is due to wear on the actual shift selector forks inside the gearbox.
I'm lovin' all this B-series action, John!👍🏼 So much nostalgia seeing these cars up close and personal again. That bit you said around 9:44 is what makes you guys a cut above the rest... always taking the necessary time, going that extra mile, and striving to make things right instead of just good enough.👏 Cheers buddy. Y'all have a great weekend!
Thanks Mick. Going the extra mile goes back to the basics when I started. ‘Treat the customers car like my car’. Spending a little more time than you charge will always pay for itself. 👍🏻
All very good information. I think most of it will apply to my EF I going to build. When I'm done maybe I'll bring it down so you can tune it for me.
Get the Honed shift linkage kit.They made a special linkage to replace that oem part for a much nicer piece.Its the nicest piece i've seen around.
15 years ago we used to cut and weld on a mill spec universal joint.
That also worked great.
Another option would have been to lower the rear perch to match the front. I run Koni shocks on the lowest perch setting all around, with stock GSR front springs and stock ITR rear springs. Sits nice and level with near stock ride quality. It’s a great OEM+ setup that I’ve been running for nearly 20 years.
The customer had reported it rubbed a little in the front. That’s why we went up in the front instead of down in the back.
Want this so bad. Old school is best.
Love the classic build. This car is really clean, and with all the new parts underneath, the owner should consider doing a full restoration on the chassis underneath
Oh hell yeah, CRX with Borbet Type C’s and PIAA 1000 fog lights! Perfect period-correct subtle 90’s build!
Most professional way to say a manufacturer’s product isn’t good
John. Reminds of my old days. Good content like always❤
That EG sounds soooo good!! 👍🏼
Love this eg so much!
B series just sound perfect.
I love that eg. I miss mine so much.
Best crossover sound
I love it. I may be doing the same to the CRX
Working on an H-series motor for my Cb7 but i have a b18c/ b16 head on stand buy. I was thinking of getting a crx for the motor or ef sedan. Keep up the great work and informative content.🔥
Good luck with it. Always good fun
Nice one bro 🔥 👍
Nice attention to detail🫡
Hey! Nice effect here for the parts list bit @ 1:50ish. Small detail but solidA 🤘
I changed over to the Dyno Designs joint tightener for my linkage. It kills all of that slop. Kind of expensive (over 100) but it works.
I have one also on my GSR and still have a small amount of side to side play. Pretty sure it’s due to wear on the shift selector forks inside the gearbox, not the actual linkage. It did take out all the front/back play in the shifter.
i gotta test drive one of these, they look so light
You guys are master ❤
Awesome car
It would be awesome if you guys develop a kit to replace the bushings on the oem linkage. I have a couple of then laying around that id love to rebuild so i can use them.
Would like to see more about the front raise. I'm in the same situation. Turbo b18c6 instead of a d13b2. Also using Koni Shocks
Hey guys any chance of getting the part # for the master booster and prop valve u recommend for the break swap……my rears are from a 91 used the hardrace bushings was a Pía love this type of videos
You need a groove in the spacer to hold the c ring. Original koni had these. Now it is built into the perch. Eventually the ring will pop loose and the perch will fall. Ask me how i know.
Our spacer goes above the machine part that sits around the C ring. The C ring is clamped in place by that machine piece. @ 1:17 you can see that piece sitting on top of the C ring.
Looks great…….but imho I prefer the rake
I didn't recognize the teenager helping you at first. But I assume he is George's teenage son.
Oh she clean Bruh
what's the brand of brake booster you went with and is it a 260v unit?
What name brand parts did you use? It appeared the master cylinder looked aftermarket. Can you link the source for parts? Thanks
Eh2!
old school b series :D for the transmission do you use regular 5w30 oil or homda mtf ?
Honda MTF with the green label.
Thank you :D
Another youtuber sagitt net2 also bought these and had the same problem
Just FYI your graphic at the end says Intagram instead of Instagram.
Oh. lol. Can’t fix it now. Thanks
They make a thing called the trex or something that replaces all of the end and gets rid of the bitch pin
Is it dangerous to keep the same prop valve that came with a car and not upgrading?
It just means the your rear disc brakes won’t be as effective. Drum requires less pressure than disc brakes.
@@LHTPerformancethanks for the reply, the shop that installed them told me it wasn't necessary. But whenever I break a little bit hard, the front tires lock up real easy.
@@lbccrx1rex933 Disk brakes requires more pressure than drums. It’s something like 90 -10 for disk and drums and 70-30
For disk front and rear.
sell it to me