Thank you, I was looking at $400 winders online, knowing I couldn't afford to buy one to fix a $300 clock and I found your video's. You have given me new hope.
I had to learn the hard way, buy my self. Wish I saw this video earlier. Fingers get tired by the time you do two of them in a row, but we get them done. The vise trick looks so much easier then popping it back in with the back end of the screw driver. Great Video Scottie.
Thanks for this excellent video! I've managed to install time train spring thanks to your instructions! Of course, it was taken out according to your instructions from another video ;)
Great instructional video. I guarantee I would not make it past the 3 minute mark without the spring jumping loose on my first try. I know this from experience of rewinding small engine starter springs, but I don't give up easily and will eventually get it done after uttering a few choice words.
Some of us have learned, over time, that hand removal and installing distorts the spring. Or ''cones'' the spring. If I remove a spring with a winder, and discover it is coned, then I fairly confiden that it did not happen on it's own. It was hand wound by a previous repairman.
Thanks for this! I was successful after following your instructions. I only lost the thing once and only gouged the floor a little bit. I'll be honest though, that was a lot more difficult than it looked!
Don't forget that I have had many years experience at this, it does take time to master. I have two more barrel springs to remove/clean/grease from the Glocken-Spiel clock I am currently working on, so the technique does come in handy, it's not just theoretical knowledge.
Great video! Good to see some videos that don't assume you have hundreds of dollars wort of special tools, Just a small suggestion, the loud ticking in the background is a bit annoying. Cheers, Peter
Thr chime mainsprings on all triple train clocks are much stronger than the time / strike maoinsprings. Wear a good pair of leather gloves and be prepared for a serious struggle with the mainspring.
That's an old video and the spring looks pretty shiny so I think it was oiled once it was back into the barrel. A while after this video was shot, my new instructor convinced me to use grease instead of oil.
Another really clear video with good lighting so I can see what's happening and a clear commentary, thanks Scottie, but that clicking soundtrack - not to my liking.
Good info!! Now... what do I do about a "sproinged" spring on a clock (old Japanese)that has no spring barrels??? Apparently the arbor "hook" gave up!!
Thanks for this lovely video. Very informative and instructional. A few questions come to mind though: 1. Would the lint from the gloves cause some issues in the long run? 2. What brand/kind of grease did you use on the actual mainspring? 3. At segment 3:29, why did you turn the spring clockwise? Is that to ensure it catches the Lug? Thank you so much.
Answers to your questions. 1. No, not a problem. 2. We use Inox PTFE premium grade grease for mainsprings. One of my horology instructors was a Chemical Engineer and he prefered this grease for clock mainsprings (not watch mainsprings) over the thick oil sold as a mainspring oil. 3. Yes, to make sure the hole-end of the mainspring was caught on the lug. This is the time to test that, not when you have reassembled the movement and are winding up the mainspring. If it is fails at that stage you will have to disassemble the movement again and rectify the prob
Hi Scottie, you didn’t mention how the hole in the spring was reconnected to the tag in the barrel. Does it just slip around and hook itself on? You make that job look easy.🤠
I'm a novice at this and am replacing the broken mainsprings in a Urgos Mantle clock. I started with the time mainspring/barrel. It has a hook end. I got a new spring which was coiled and had a wire wrapped around it to keep it tight. I tried putting it in the barrel but it was a tight fit and I couldn't get the hook to loop onto the peg in the barrel. Since it was so tight, the peg wouldn't let the spring slide in--or at least I couldn't figure out how to do it. So, ultimately I released the new spring and wound it in by hand as you show in your video. I don't have a spring winder-obviously. Could you explain in detail how to install a new spring into the barrel so I don't have to do it manually? Thanks.
Thanks, Used BOTH remove/reinstall Clock Mainsprings and could not have done it without your great videos and CLEAR spoken work!
Many thanks for your kind donation and comment, both are well received. Thanks.
Thank you, I was looking at $400 winders online, knowing I couldn't afford to buy one to fix a $300 clock and I found your video's. You have given me new hope.
Just remember to wear leather gloves and that the spring is very strong and liable to slip out of the barrel while you are winding it in.
putting my first set off springs today. its a nice wet cold day in texas.
Great pair of videos Scotty, thanks for posting! Always remember to use safety glasses and gloves when working on leaf mainsprings!
Glad you liked the videos. Thanks for your comment.
I had to learn the hard way, buy my self. Wish I saw this video earlier. Fingers get tired by the time you do two of them in a row, but we get them done. The vise trick looks so much easier then popping it back in with the back end of the screw driver. Great Video Scottie.
@justmike57, thanks Mike, hand winding a chime spring into a barrel can be fraught with dramas for sure.
Thank you! It really worked-you saved my clock!
Glad I was able to help you get your clock up and running.
Thanks for this excellent video! I've managed to install time train spring thanks to your instructions! Of course, it was taken out according to your instructions from another video ;)
Glad my videos were able to help you. Thanks for your comment.
Great instructional video. I guarantee I would not make it past the 3 minute mark without the spring jumping loose on my first try. I know this from experience of rewinding small engine starter springs, but I don't give up easily and will eventually get it done after uttering a few choice words.
Yes, I know it well. That's part of the learning curve.
Some of us have learned, over time, that hand removal and installing distorts the spring. Or ''cones'' the spring. If I remove a spring with a winder, and discover it is coned, then I fairly confiden that it did not happen on it's own. It was hand wound by a previous repairman.
Thanks for this! I was successful after following your instructions. I only lost the thing once and only gouged the floor a little bit. I'll be honest though, that was a lot more difficult than it looked!
Don't forget that I have had many years experience at this, it does take time to master. I have two more barrel springs to remove/clean/grease from the Glocken-Spiel clock I am currently working on, so the technique does come in handy, it's not just theoretical knowledge.
Great video! Good to see some videos that don't assume you have hundreds of dollars wort of special tools,
Just a small suggestion, the loud ticking in the background is a bit annoying.
Cheers, Peter
Understated!! That ticking is audio water torture!!! I had to mute it and read CC!!!
@@Liberallez
I thought the ticking was a bomb timer.
The spring could explode any second! 🤠
Fantastic instructions, worked a treat on my Enfiled mainsprings, Much appreciated.
Wow is it Hermle?
I wanna try but how about triple chime harder spring?
Thr chime mainsprings on all triple train clocks are much stronger than the time / strike maoinsprings. Wear a good pair of leather gloves and be prepared for a serious struggle with the mainspring.
I’ve got this job to do in the morning with a 400 day clock...thanks for the demonstration!
Did you oïl or grease the mainspring?
That's an old video and the spring looks pretty shiny so I think it was oiled once it was back into the barrel. A while after this video was shot, my new instructor convinced me to use grease instead of oil.
@@ScottiesClockWorld OK. Thank you for your helpful answer. I'll go with grease.👍👍👍
Another really clear video with good lighting so I can see what's happening and a clear commentary, thanks Scottie, but that clicking soundtrack - not to my liking.
Good info!! Now... what do I do about a "sproinged" spring on a clock (old Japanese)that has no spring barrels??? Apparently the arbor "hook" gave up!!
Thanks for this lovely video. Very informative and instructional. A few questions come to mind though:
1. Would the lint from the gloves cause some issues in the long run?
2. What brand/kind of grease did you use on the actual mainspring?
3. At segment 3:29, why did you turn the spring clockwise? Is that to ensure it catches the Lug?
Thank you so much.
Answers to your questions.
1. No, not a problem.
2. We use Inox PTFE premium grade grease for mainsprings.
One of my horology instructors was a Chemical Engineer and he prefered this grease for clock mainsprings (not watch mainsprings) over the thick oil sold as a mainspring oil.
3. Yes, to make sure the hole-end of the mainspring was caught on the lug.
This is the time to test that, not when you have reassembled the movement and are winding up the mainspring.
If it is fails at that stage you will have to disassemble the movement again and rectify the prob
Hi Scottie, you didn’t mention how the hole in the spring was reconnected to the tag in the barrel.
Does it just slip around and hook itself on?
You make that job look easy.🤠
Thanks for this
Great video spoilt by that annoying ticking that is so loud
'If it lets go, you'll know about it'...I bet!! 😄
Thanks for the demo - I've always been rather scared of doing this by hand......!
Using a good pair of leather gloves and holding the spring tightly is the key. If the spring slips or lets go it wont cut your hand.
I'm a novice at this and am replacing the broken mainsprings in a Urgos Mantle clock. I started with the time mainspring/barrel. It has a hook end. I got a new spring which was coiled and had a wire wrapped around it to keep it tight. I tried putting it in the barrel but it was a tight fit and I couldn't get the hook to loop onto the peg in the barrel. Since it was so tight, the peg wouldn't let the spring slide in--or at least I couldn't figure out how to do it. So, ultimately I released the new spring and wound it in by hand as you show in your video. I don't have a spring winder-obviously. Could you explain in detail how to install a new spring into the barrel so I don't have to do it manually? Thanks.
What if the clock doesnt have a barrel and just a spring?
Thank you !!!
Sorry, I meant "hole end" mainspring, not "hook end."
You must be able to crush a carrot with your hand to be able to put a spring in that way
Those mainsprings can be pretty strong. If you loose your grip and it slips you'll be wearing it for sure.
that ticking sound is annoying
The sound is made by a mechanical clock movement on a test stand. Maybe silent mass produced quartz movements are more your style.
Watching this video with a bandaged thumb…
That doesn't sound good. Did a mainspring let go on you?
@@ScottiesClockWorld sure did! I’ll only make that mistake once.
Things will be easier using mainspring winder . . . .