Finally we got our short block! 414 small block mopar stroker build
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- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2022
- Just picked up our short block for our small block mopar stroker build! This vid is a quick go over the build, Mopar performance crank, eagle h beam rods, and icon forged pistons in my 1972 360 dodge block. I also show an oil mod, the lifter valley oil cross over and the engine girdle from Hughes engines. Next up is assembly!
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Thanks for walking through the mods, a lot of great tips in this video.
She’s looking great! I better get my stuff together!
Hell ya brother lol
I love it joe
Fantastic!
I’m definitely looking forward to seeing your car rip! 🤘😎
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice engine build.
I hope you reach your 600hp plus goals.
This engine is really going to power that Dart till the next level of performance.
Thanks for the update.
Take care, EM.
Thanks for watching bud! More up soon!
Should be a nice build good luck waiting for the Dyno test.
Stay tuned!
Happy days 👍
That's a small block done right 👍
👍🏻👍🏻 stoked to get it on the pump
Very nice, glad you went with Higher compression ratio, im rooting for a 600 plus pull. (Slick-Built Small-Block Part 3 ) was 577. in their article build up
👍🏻👍🏻
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop hmm between Mechanical Hi Flow Edlebrock waterpump and no windage tray...i wonder
👍😎
New sub! Liked 🙏👍❤️
Hell ya brother! Lots on the channel! Amd more to come 👍🏻
Girdle looks great, used to 4 bolt main, but heard girdles are good 👍. Hopefully no oil pan interference issues, wondering if you installed an oil scraper also or not.
Also when you took the engine apart how were the rod bearings on #5 and #6?
I'm excited to see how it does. As for balancing, I can't see any reason for not internally balancing it. Do they not have mallory metal?
The cost of metal and the time would have made it to expensive
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Yes I agree avoid mallory metal if at all possible your much much better off just adding a bit more money and getting a good internal balanced crank.
What oil pump are you running?
Wait, it's not together yet!? I'd be living in the shop until it was back in the car LOL.
Where you think I’ve been for the last 2 days lol
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop if you don't you should go and check out @Gen 2 Garage here on RUclips they do alot of Mopar stuff on their channel as well
@@keefespencer1173 ya seen them for sure. Part of street race crew
Hi Joel what pistons do you have in it brand and model looks nice.
Good job Joe! What cam you running with those trickflow heads?
Same solid roller from before. 249/252 .616 lift with the 1.6 rockers
So is the #1 main now being fed from the left side bank via the crossover tube?
Yes amd the key is the plug in the front to pressurize the system now
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop
I’m going to tackle the same issue on my w2 stroker, my concern would be #1 being late on getting oil as the left lifter bank has to fill before pressure to #1.
I’m going to feed #1 from the right side but have blocked off the passage up to the left lifter bank under the bearing. Oil tube bypass at right rear to feed left side lifters only.
Not sure what is best but I know what you are trying for tackle, I just what you to have success and no bearing more bearing failures. Maybe some others have some advice/experience and can chime in?
What brand of main stud girdle did you use aim building 408 and everything back order parts are pain to get in Puerto rico
From Hughes engines! I’m in Canada they shipped her so I bet they will ship to you! Good luck on the build 👍🏻
Do you guys do super charger installs on late model Toyota’s?
No
Is there anyway you can weigh the assembly when you get done?
Sorry I don’t have the means to weight it
Joey...this is kinda old video but I have a question. You said you were going to stay with external balance. Did anything have to change weight-wise with the stroker or do you use the stock weighted flex plate and balancer? No added weight to compensate for the added stroke? Hope you see this. I'd really like to know. Thanks
Hey so whole thing was balanced together crank rods pistons balancer amd flex plate. They wanted everything to to do it
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Got it. Thanks. Will probably do the same since I'm going with a manual trans (flywheel). Really helps. I was wondering how they would do that.
Can the oil mod be applied to the mopar big block also?
I do not know sorry
🎉😂❤
🤔 Ahh, I see the problem.... You just picked up the wrong engine. No big deal! Next time, just look for the engine that's painted in blue(Ford blue). Although, if you decide to keep this engine, you can just paint it Ford blue, which should be good for +50 extra horsepower! 😁
Seriously though, if that's an early 70s block, then you cleaned it up extremely well. I would've guessed it to be a newer aftermarket block, if I didn't know better.
Are you a dedicated engine builder? Or is all that your own stuff at your home garage?
I am building a 406 stroker 360 Magnum. I am kicking myself for thinking and going Magnum. I should have sourced a late 90-92 360 roller LA.
Running EQ heads those flow better in the LA forging than the Magnum forging.
Now EQ heads have jumped a lot in price. So to turn back now seems futile.
I am not building a drag car. I am building an engine for my 1983 RamCharger. I don't need top end I need axle shattering TQ(not that I want to ever break equipment(I have Dana 60's in the works with 4.10's)) to turn 33's.
I want power with reliability. A 200,000 mile 400HP 400+TQ engine that is light. Everyone wants to either LS swap (that is worthy of a day in holy water before going through the gates of hell) or Cummins swap into the RamChargers. Too much weight and too many changes. Change one thing and it turns into dominoes.
I have my block, crank, rods, pistons and heads. Now comes the time to figure out how far to take the heads and what cam.
I do want a girdle even though my ignition will be rev limited to 6,000 RPM. Bullet proof. Over build for the rev and power by 1/3rd and you gain reliability with performance.
I am a viewer not the producer of the video but I have built and raced SBM since 1977 from 9 second cars to great street machines and everything in between. First don't worry about the rear end that dana 60 will take a lot more abuse than what your combo will be able to give it. I ran a dana 60 in a Roadrunner that ran 9.90s in the quarter never hurt the rear.
The dana 60 is really used as a truck rear end back then and it was put in hemi and six pack cars so the rear could stand up to abuse with room to spare.
I don't know the weight of your truck or what your plans are with it but to make 400HP and over 400 foot pounds of torque will be easy to do with a 360 stroked to 406 CI
A girdle really isn't needed at 6000 rpm if everything is right it would be a little over kill but make sure it is balanced well. If you want it as light as possible use aluminum heads and a aluminum intake. These days almost any aluminum head manufacture will get you to 400+HP stay away from the Pro Comp heads if possible because a lot of times the extra machine you pay for to get them right can be equal to or even more than a set of something like Trick Flow heads or even Edelbrock Heads. No matter what heads you use make sure they are right seat pressure's,valve height etc..
Cast heads will get you over 400 HP as well doing simple well done pocket porting and gasket matching at least 2.02 intake valves and a 1.60 exhaust with headers would be the best. Is the truck a automatic or a stick? This can make a big difference in cam and carb selection as well as the weight of the truck itself will have a impact on cam and carb selection. If it is a automatic trans than a little higher stall converter really is needed and absolutely use a trans cooler.
Cam selection? Use any top brand cam that has a rpm range from 2500 to 6000 or better rpm range in a 406 that range will drop a little to like 2300 to 6000 give or take the intake manifold that would be good for that would be a Edelbrock Performer RPM gives you the best of both worlds. The carb? The Carter 800 cfm avs carb would be a good all round choice it sort of combines a double pumper feel and a vac secondary transition with no bogs once set up right. If you use a Holley or something simular to a Holley if the truck is a automatic use a vac secondary 750 to 800 cfm. If it is a stick you could use a DP but your in a truck with some weight low end torque on the street is better in the long run. If that truck is over 4000 lbs use the Carter avs 800 cfm or a vac secondary carb. If it was a dart or duster or something like that than all these recommendations would be a little different.
Just my thoughts:)
@@jamesmackinlay4477 You and I could sit on a porch for a few hours talking. You know far more than I do. I have built 1 engine in my life to be serious and that is my Harley TC 88 pushed to 95+0.010
It shits and gets about one belt drive every 8,000 miles.
Way long ago in high school (got my paper in 1995) I built a radical as all could be International 345 using some 392 parts.
Since then I have been a Helicopter mechanic and in that world the number jump is insane. I went from 350 HP V-8's to 2,650 SHP Turbines that weight 500 pounds +- 50.
Right now I am trying to do block research. Dremell and an afternoon detail stuff. Just don't know where to start or what needs to be done.
I could probably sell my EQ heads for some aluminum but, I have a problem with bi-metal engines. Think Red Dawn and pissing into a radiator. You cook aluminum it is over. Relability...
I have a Scat cast 4" crank, Scat forged I beam rods, KB Hyper pistons, magnum block and EQ heads.
Clevite is a thought for bearings. No idea on cam yet. I want my power band to be hard hitting from 1,500 to 4,500 and 6,000 as my save the crank math redline. Pertronix ignition III.
Its a RamCharger of the 4x4 kind with 15" turbines (if I go 60's I lose my wheels). Its ok they are made in a 8 lug pattern also.
I want to put a NP435 and NP205 in it. But, till something comes along I am going to build a 727. Autos off road are great for going up a hill. Manuals are better going down hill.
We need to talk. I think you are the golden egg of advice I need. Reason being. You are pushing SBM's to the upper end limit where shit gives way. I am building for nothing more than 5500 to 1500. You know how to build one of these into space. Well, Jim I am a space cadet.
I want to be a sponge and absorb your knowledge.
60's are going under for exactly the reasons you stated.
Here is my list of cars. I have had or still own.
53 Ford F-350
54 Ford F-250
56 Ford F-100
66 Baracuda 273 4 speed
68 Coronet 440 318
73 Powerwagon W200, 360, NP 435, NP 205, 60 rear heavy 44 front 4.10
74 Dodge Colt Station wagon(sounds funny but wish I still had it)
83 Ramcharger because, I don't like camping near people. Also my build project for the rest of my life.
84 Audi Quatrro GT 5E( I am going by year, not years I owned, served 4 years in Germany)
1989 RamCharger Parts
1994 am 1500 5.2 4x4 5 speed
2004 Ram 2500 Hemi, 5 speed, 4x4 4.10's. That's Bubba he gets shit done sea to shining sea.
400 horsepower is a lot on the street. I want to go off road but not a bash and trash. The vehicle is worth too much. I want to enjoy it yet know if shit gets serious. I don't want failure.
Thank you Jim for being cool in the YT world of knowledge.
@@DobermansRock Thanks for the compliments this isn't my channel and frankly I really never gave advice like this before on youtube but it sort of struck me and I could not resist myself. I have a great deal of respect for this channel so I hope Simpsons Speed Shop did not take my response to your questions here in a negative way. Anyway currently I have a Little Red Express Truck 19.000 miles on it all factory original right down to the hose clamps drive it at least once a month.
A 70 Cuda 440 4 speed built to about 500 HP give or take bought the car in 1978 rebuilt the engine still runs perfect.
A mid 10 second 70 Duster with a 340 engine with about 4 seasons on it still runs good but soon will refresh it.
A 1963 Plymonth Savoy 426 Max Wedge car all restored (A 10 year restoration) had a hard time finding some missing parts and I am getting ready to sell it.
The 360 and even the 318 engines never the the credit they really deserve a 360 is a GREAT street engine built a lot of them at least 20 of them over the years for myself and others. Rebuilt a bunch of hemi engines as well even owned a few over the years. Email me at admin@speedyfind.net and will give you the the exacts part numbers you need to get where you want.
IMM machine shop was porting the EQ Heads out to 200 cc, they built a 600 HP small block a while back
The block is a 340 CI ?
No. Was a 360. Now 414
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Cool . It got the tubing to restrict the oil flow because of the roller lifters ?
@@isaaccarrillo2277 no it’s to supply better oils to #1 main