Hey I have read some of that stuff, I do think they were on to something but prob more than I need as motor will turn only a bit over 6 this go around. I am talking with the machine shop about the lifter valley cross over tube tho. Thanks for watching. More to come soon!
MP and Scat cast cranks are the same crank. Cast steel crank will need a couple of slugs of Mallory metal in the front and rear counter weights in order to be internally balanced.
Glad you’ve got some solid parts in this one. Should be a nice combination for a strong build. Will he be able to run it on the dyno after it’s been built? It’d be great to see you on a live with John Wilburn someday. He has been highlighting all the great things in the Mopar community and beyond!
Hey Mopar joe! Great name! And great channel you got! Yes this new build will be on dyno for a least one video! Hoping to do a couple with different carbs and such l, it always great to meet new Mopar people! Thansk for watching the vid
I just subbed. Interesting, nice crank and rod upgrades, hope that bigger pan cures any captivation you might have been having? I remember my 427/425 had a deep 7 quart pan from GM, it came with the motor and seems Chevy made that available needed a longer GM pick-up, looked cool from the front with it being so noticeable. wasn't
Man! I’ve been waiting since aug for a Milodon pickup!! Hopefully next week 🤞🏻.I had a 408 mag built and had to dyno it with the same pan you just got because the correct pick up for my truck was out of stock everywhere I mean EVERYWHERE. I’m also running the trick flow heads on my 408 it made 505 hp @6100 and 500 ft-lbs@4300 . Also a comp cam - duration @ .050 -243/249 .lift .532/.493 , 108 Lsa. With 10:5 comp. I can’t wait to see what yours does! It’s Gonna rip!!
Right on man! Ya when I see what I’m after on summit and they have like 1 in stock I just hit the buy button. Lol. Sounds like you got nice build there!
Thanks for the update! You are going to need to update the intro when you dyno your new motor build! Haha! And those guys who buy the billet steel crankshafts still need to watch your videos. It’s not deep pockets that keep these cars going, it’s the passion and enthusiasm for these cars and the racing that you and others like you have. Keep up the great content!
Hi Joe. Coming along very nice. The new 7 qt pan should help a lot. With a 4 Inch stroke, should bring the RPMs down some right? Good luck and hopefully you can take us over to the machine shop and dyno room. Thanks for sharing and cheers from Motown.
Yes you are correct should peak at like 6000 rpm now. Much safe. High rpm is super cool but it kills motor as I know. I will film as much as I can. 100% will have at least one dyno vid out of this motor
Hey Joe, consider some work on the oil pump, clean the passages, match the gasket and then to the main cap, it’s amazing how “off” it can be. Also drill/ream the oil gallies etc etc.
Ya that’s a good call I’ll have the machine shop check on the passages to clean up return for sure and we do the pump we will make sure alinement is on point 👍🏻
I agree. Though I was working with an RB oil pump, I ported the passages, smoothing out the "kinks". In the BB pump there is a right angle turn in the output passage. After I smoothed out the transition, you could see the difference on the oil pressure gauge. It was like a tach.
I have a cast steel Eagle crank and Eagle I beam 6in. rods with JE pistons on em. 385ci sbc. Many years on and off 6500 shift points no problem. Eagle makes good parts.
Sounds good. I would say from my experience, only the better machine shops can do a Square Deck. Why?.... Roughly, the Deck Height (DH) is about 9.600 give or take a few thou. You need an Align Hone first to ensure Rotating Assembly will index. After which, you want to mock up the Bottom End after Bore and hone without rings. If using factory reconditioned Rods, they will be shorter than 6.123 inches. New Rods should have each exactly 6.123 in length. Bring all four corners up to TDC separately and rock piston for a measurement without pushing it down the bore. Subtract the difference between high and low and repeat the process on all four corners for an average. In theory, this should give you your spec when Zero decking. The shops with the $$$ also may have the BHJ fixtures to find this information. These are really not the Mom & Pops shops, but the more serious Shops that focus in Performance and Racing.
Those are killer connecting rods...luckily you got them before they were out of stock...11:4 compression sounds like great 👍 for those high flow aluminum heads...Milodon oil pan with the new high volume oil pump are great to ensure great lubrication and heat removal...looking forward to seeing the engine on the dyno...
Nice choice of parts, I'm doing two mopar la motors, a .040 over 10:1 318 with iron heads that is a snappy little thing and gets decent mileage. And a 360 stroker pretty much the same as yours. Both for a 72 Scamp
414 CUBES with 11.41 thats cool!!Very efficient little engine!! What cam do you have? I'm really curious to see how much hp you will make especially with those heads that I'm considering buying now. There are some cheap 416 ci stroker kits on ebay, wonder if that would've saved any money over buying parts seperate or it didin't have the piston you wanted in it? cheers m8 love the channel!
One thing I would be sure to check is to make sure ALL the oil gallery plugs have been reinstalled. ESPECIALLY, the one under the oil pump. If you leave that one out the oil filter is in permanent bypass for some of the oil. Have you checked to see how your new oil pan fits your K-member and headers, yet?
It would be great if you could give part numbers for the crank, rods, pistons, girdle etc. I'm wanting to do this build for my 72 D200 pickup next winter.
You will need to drill a hole in baffle for the dip stick to read properly and bend down a tab for pick up to clear. With the MIlidon pan also DO NOT buy a milidon windage tray they are brittle and crack use a 360 windage tray, which you have to cut for oil pump pick up.
I am looking forward to seeing this one through the process and the dyno pull! I have a 408 with Trickflow heads Strip Dominator intake and 800cfm carb. I am running the same -13cc Icon pistons and have the FelPro .039 gasket. With a Howards 600/615 Solid with 254/260 @050 and 108 LSA it has right at 190 cranking pressure. It has only made a couple passes but it has done 118.6 in the 1/4 at about 3400lb race weight. I bought a Super Victor this winter and a Proform 950. Hoping to get more out of it this coming summer. 727 with a Huges 3500. 4.10 gears and 28". Like you said certainly a lot of material to port match that intake.
Well got some packages on the way from summit! Some stuff still waiting on. I have trans stuff and some other things in works! Thanks for staying tuned. I truly appreciate it. New vids out soon
Sounds and looks like a nice setup. Question what size roller cam are you going with. The gears you already have in the car will they work that setup. Also where you race at is a really short track. It's like first second and slow down. Have you thought about using a power glide trans? Or are you ever going to run on a full 1320 race track?
Looking good Joe just check with clearance on your pan to K member as a few have ran into and needed to notch the K member drivers side front corner of pan . Should be pretty healthy once done.
I know it'll probably take awhile to get them but please do a video on those pistons when you get them...interested in those and want to see what they actually look like .... hard to say by the KB photo cuz who's to say its not just a picture and not necessarily the ones your ordering
I would like to help give you some in site, if i may. May save you a lot of headache's. I run a 414 in my 64 Dart. It weigh's 3100 lb. 10.5 x 29.5 tires with 4.10 gears in a Dana. I make 730 HP with a stock 360 block. It runs 5.94 in a true 1/8 mile. To start with your gonna need a brass dist. gear for a roller cam. Get ahold of me if you like. If not, thats fine. I enjoy your video's. Paul Mitchell in Illinois.
So after all that talk did you want to mention the brand of the crank? No so you just went invalid. Sounds like a bolt together model.Oh wait just read the bio. Its a mopar unit. How does that stand up to a Scatt?
Another option: Since your Block was already zero decked and squared, custom Pistons could have saved the block from getting decked again. Also, more material will now need to be removed from the Intake side of the Head or the Intake manifold itself. Or you can do what many other shops do when surfaces are decked....... Elongate the Intake manifold bolt holes.
Didn’t want to use custom pistons on this build as supply on everything is an issue. It will be fairly minimal material of deck for new pistons amd intake ports had room on roof and floor. Will check to make sure no interference tho.
I may have missed it but are you also running the TF Single plane Intake? Wod love to see a comparison between the Trick Flow setup and a Edelbrock Victor setup.
@@JD-ck1zn Would love to see pics of your 67 Dart. My favorite Dart! Hopefully, It will be my next car. Saying bye bye to the 460 big block Mustang and going back to my roots (Mopar!!!) Take care and cheers from Motown.
The MP crank is the same as a SCAT I believe, the Eagle units are known to break with higher HP/racing, but are OK on the street and some strip like with iron LA heads or Eddy, etc. Iron W2 and better aluminum heads like yours (TrickFlow 190CNC)/W5/etc. need the SCAT/MP unit as minimum, or 4340 steel forged. NICE!! Looking forward to the rest of the build series!! :D
Alright Joe! Sounds like things are shaping up for you. I hope everything you need for this build arrives in a timely fashion this way we can all see you enjoy the track next season. I have missed a few of your prior videos since I haven’t been watching much of anything lately. I’ll have some spare time soon and I look forward to catching up. Best of everything to ya😉👍
Happy for you bro! I'm really hoping it all comes together exactly as you hoped. Wondering if you'll have to take any material out of the block for rod clearance. Thanks for the concise update and congrats man, It's looking really good bro. I think you're gonna need some wheelie bars! LOL
You'll be making a nice step up, complimenting your cylinder heads. Good choice on the compression ratio too, just plan on mixing a pail of race gas like VP C-12 to the tank for race day since you're lucky enough to race at near sea level conditions. Expect a fairly big increase in stall speed, and possibly a gear ratio change too.
Yes I am anticipating a stall change. Also have trans brake goin in, I will get some stall taken out of converter before it goes back together thanks for watching
Thanks brother, I enjoyed the update. 4 qts? I agree ( not that it matters) with your choices for this build. I am not familiar with that particular crank but the logic of it and especially with the griddle sounds like a winning combination. Plus I'm sure the difference in cost is a huge plus. Love those rods, they will definitely handle some serious power.
I know it’s old school but you should check out Herb McCandless oil passage and pump mods. They work really well. Great channel.
Hey I have read some of that stuff, I do think they were on to something but prob more than I need as motor will turn only a bit over 6 this go around. I am talking with the machine shop about the lifter valley cross over tube tho. Thanks for watching. More to come soon!
MP and Scat cast cranks are the same crank. Cast steel crank will need a couple of slugs of Mallory metal in the front and rear counter weights in order to be internally balanced.
Glad you’ve got some solid parts in this one. Should be a nice combination for a strong build. Will he be able to run it on the dyno after it’s been built? It’d be great to see you on a live with John Wilburn someday. He has been highlighting all the great things in the Mopar community and beyond!
Hey Mopar joe! Great name! And great channel you got! Yes this new build will be on dyno for a least one video! Hoping to do a couple with different carbs and such l, it always great to meet new Mopar people! Thansk for watching the vid
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop give me some feedback on this one. ruclips.net/video/sTmOl4qmYAU/видео.html
I just subbed. Interesting, nice crank and rod upgrades, hope that bigger pan cures any captivation you might have been having? I remember my 427/425 had a deep 7 quart pan from GM, it came with the motor and seems Chevy made that available needed a longer GM pick-up, looked cool from the front with it being so noticeable. wasn't
Man! I’ve been waiting since aug for a Milodon pickup!! Hopefully next week 🤞🏻.I had a 408 mag built and had to dyno it with the same pan you just got because the correct pick up for my truck was out of stock everywhere I mean EVERYWHERE. I’m also running the trick flow heads on my 408 it made 505 hp @6100 and 500 ft-lbs@4300 . Also a comp cam - duration @ .050 -243/249 .lift .532/.493 , 108 Lsa. With 10:5 comp. I can’t wait to see what yours does! It’s Gonna rip!!
Right on man! Ya when I see what I’m after on summit and they have like 1 in stock I just hit the buy button. Lol. Sounds like you got nice build there!
Rick Caldwell thanks for the update love the videos
Cheers bud. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the update! You are going to need to update the intro when you dyno your new motor build! Haha!
And those guys who buy the billet steel crankshafts still need to watch your videos. It’s not deep pockets that keep these cars going, it’s the passion and enthusiasm for these cars and the racing that you and others like you have. Keep up the great content!
Thanks my man! Yes I need to make a new intro hahah that’s a good idea! Thanks for watching
Hi Joe. Coming along very nice. The new 7 qt pan should help a lot. With a 4 Inch stroke, should bring the RPMs down some right? Good luck and hopefully you can take us over to the machine shop and dyno room. Thanks for sharing and cheers from Motown.
Yes you are correct should peak at like 6000 rpm now. Much safe. High rpm is super cool but it kills motor as I know. I will film as much as I can. 100% will have at least one dyno vid out of this motor
Love the build.
OMG! Who welded that pan together? Stevie Wonder?
I am hyper critical of my welding but that looks like crap!
Lol. No doubt. It dosnt leak tho so that good
Hey Joe, consider some work on the oil pump, clean the passages, match the gasket and then to the main cap, it’s amazing how “off” it can be. Also drill/ream the oil gallies etc etc.
Ya that’s a good call I’ll have the machine shop check on the passages to clean up return for sure and we do the pump we will make sure alinement is on point 👍🏻
I would say drilling oil passages on a SBM would be "Race Only". Good suggestion.
I agree. Though I was working with an RB oil pump, I ported the passages, smoothing out the "kinks". In the BB pump there is a right angle turn in the output passage. After I smoothed out the transition, you could see the difference on the oil pressure gauge. It was like a tach.
I have a cast steel Eagle crank and Eagle I beam 6in. rods with JE pistons on em. 385ci sbc. Many years on and off 6500 shift points no problem. Eagle makes good parts.
👍🏻
I would have went with a forged crank if your going to all that trouble. Sometimes going cheaper will cost you more money later, trust me I know.
Have been looking at a 4.18 crank for my 340
Good for you, I hope you are not getting stuck waiting on ports
Sounds like a nice build! More flow is always nice👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great update, sounds like that new motor is going to be a hell of a ripper!
Should be good! Stay tuned!
Sounds good. I would say from my experience, only the better machine shops can do a Square Deck.
Why?.... Roughly, the Deck Height (DH) is about 9.600 give or take a few thou. You need an Align Hone first to ensure Rotating Assembly will index.
After which, you want to mock up the Bottom End after Bore and hone without rings. If using factory reconditioned Rods, they will be shorter than 6.123 inches. New Rods should have each exactly 6.123 in length.
Bring all four corners up to TDC separately and rock piston for a measurement without pushing it down the bore. Subtract the difference between high and low and repeat the process on all four corners for an average. In theory, this should give you your spec when Zero decking.
The shops with the $$$ also may have the BHJ fixtures to find this information. These are really not the Mom & Pops shops, but the more serious Shops that focus in Performance and Racing.
Those are killer connecting rods...luckily you got them before they were out of stock...11:4 compression sounds like great 👍 for those high flow aluminum heads...Milodon oil pan with the new high volume oil pump are great to ensure great lubrication and heat removal...looking forward to seeing the engine on the dyno...
Nice choice of parts, I'm doing two mopar la motors, a .040 over 10:1 318 with iron heads that is a snappy little thing and gets decent mileage.
And a 360 stroker pretty much the same as yours.
Both for a 72 Scamp
414 CUBES with 11.41 thats cool!!Very efficient little engine!! What cam do you have? I'm really curious to see how much hp you will make especially with those heads that I'm considering buying now. There are some cheap 416 ci stroker kits on ebay, wonder if that would've saved any money over buying parts seperate or it didin't have the piston you wanted in it? cheers m8 love the channel!
One thing I would be sure to check is to make sure ALL the oil gallery plugs have been reinstalled. ESPECIALLY, the one under the oil pump. If you leave that one out the oil filter is in permanent bypass for some of the oil.
Have you checked to see how your new oil pan fits your K-member and headers, yet?
It would be great if you could give part numbers for the crank, rods, pistons, girdle etc.
I'm wanting to do this build for my 72 D200 pickup next winter.
You will need to drill a hole in baffle for the dip stick to read properly and bend down a tab for pick up to clear. With the MIlidon pan also DO NOT buy a milidon windage tray they are brittle and crack use a 360 windage tray, which you have to cut for oil pump pick up.
I am looking forward to seeing this one through the process and the dyno pull! I have a 408 with Trickflow heads Strip Dominator intake and 800cfm carb. I am running the same -13cc Icon pistons and have the FelPro .039 gasket. With a Howards 600/615 Solid with 254/260 @050 and 108 LSA it has right at 190 cranking pressure. It has only made a couple passes but it has done 118.6 in the 1/4 at about 3400lb race weight. I bought a Super Victor this winter and a Proform 950. Hoping to get more out of it this coming summer. 727 with a Huges 3500. 4.10 gears and 28". Like you said certainly a lot of material to port match that intake.
Which rod bearings were shot when you took it apart?was it #6 in particular ?
Great update video Joe!👍 Sounds like it's going to be a beast! I look forward to seeing the rest of the build.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
hope your is coming along ok
Well got some packages on the way from summit! Some stuff still waiting on. I have trans stuff and some other things in works! Thanks for staying tuned. I truly appreciate it. New vids out soon
Sounds and looks like a nice setup. Question what size roller cam are you going with. The gears you already have in the car will they work that setup. Also where you race at is a really short track. It's like first second and slow down. Have you thought about using a power glide trans? Or are you ever going to run on a full 1320 race track?
Same cam as previous motor and the 4:30 gears will be great. I wouldn’t put a power glide in as I do plan on running 1320. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
thanks for the update sounds great big hello from down under
Looking good Joe just check with clearance on your pan to K member as a few have ran into and needed to notch the K member drivers side front corner of pan . Should be pretty healthy once done.
Another brand to consider...... Kevko. No kick outs, 7 qt., windage tray already welded in. About same price as Milodon maybe a little less.
That crank seems like a great buy, can’t wait to see how it treats you
I know it'll probably take awhile to get them but please do a video on those pistons when you get them...interested in those and want to see what they actually look like .... hard to say by the KB photo cuz who's to say its not just a picture and not necessarily the ones your ordering
I would like to help give you some in site, if i may. May save you a lot of headache's. I run a 414 in my 64 Dart. It weigh's 3100 lb. 10.5 x 29.5 tires with 4.10 gears in a Dana. I make 730 HP with a stock 360 block. It runs 5.94 in a true 1/8 mile. To start with your gonna need a brass dist. gear for a roller cam. Get ahold of me if you like. If not, thats fine. I enjoy your video's. Paul Mitchell in Illinois.
This cam dosnt require a brass gear. Sounds like you got a sweet ride. Thanks for watching.
So after all that talk did you want to mention the brand of the crank? No so you just went invalid. Sounds like a bolt together model.Oh wait just read the bio. Its a mopar unit.
How does that stand up to a Scatt?
Yes and I say in vid Mopar crank. Pete has use these cranks on a bunch 600 hp strokes with no probs.
Another option:
Since your Block was already zero decked and squared, custom Pistons could have saved the block from getting decked again. Also, more material will now need to be removed from the Intake side of the Head or the Intake manifold itself. Or you can do what many other shops do when surfaces are decked....... Elongate the Intake manifold bolt holes.
Didn’t want to use custom pistons on this build as supply on everything is an issue. It will be fairly minimal material of deck for new pistons amd intake ports had room on roof and floor. Will check to make sure no interference tho.
Hey Joe. Great video. Excellent level of detail and sharing of technical information with us in your vids.
Hey thanks for watching bro!
I may have missed it but are you also running the TF Single plane Intake? Wod love to see a comparison between the Trick Flow setup and a Edelbrock Victor setup.
Super victor intake that did a bit of porting on. Thanks for watching
Great to see this, as well as your previous efforts.
]Which do you think is stronger. an old stock 318/340 forged crank or a new cast steel crank?
Probably the old forged unit. It would be cool to see a test!
Thanks for the update man!!!
Awesome J《☆》Good plan. Nice Crankshaft Hierarchy👍🤓
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Sounds like a stout stroker motor. Are you going too look at a belt drive for the cam?
No I won’t be. Just a fresh unit. We order them 10 thou tighter than usual to keep the slack out
You are doing it right dude 👍👍👍👍👍👍I love it ✅✅✅✅✅
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Keep up the great work brother! I can't wait to see how the Dart runs with the new setup
Thansk Andy I’m pretty stoked too. Just waiting on parts is getting to me. Lol.
Drill exit side of oil pump to .500
Send that Intake to Wilson's they do amazing work
That’s a pretty good idea. Although would cost me a bit to do that. I’ll prob just port myself
Yeah it's not cheap. But from what I've seen on the dyno it's well worth it. I'm ordering a Super Victor from them for my 67 Dart 408 Stroker.
Nice! Send me some pics when you get it! Love to take a look
Will do!!
@@JD-ck1zn Would love to see pics of your 67 Dart. My favorite Dart! Hopefully, It will be my next car. Saying bye bye to the 460 big block Mustang and going back to my roots (Mopar!!!) Take care and cheers from Motown.
I like how methodical you are with the parts selections Joe! Should run really good!
👍🏻 thanks bud looking forward to getting it together
👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦
👍🏻👍🏻🇨🇦🍻
The MP crank is the same as a SCAT I believe, the Eagle units are known to break with higher HP/racing, but are OK on the street and some strip like with iron LA heads or Eddy, etc. Iron W2 and better aluminum heads like yours (TrickFlow 190CNC)/W5/etc. need the SCAT/MP unit as minimum, or 4340 steel forged. NICE!! Looking forward to the rest of the build series!! :D
Also made in America. Not China. 👍🏻 thanks for watching bro
Alright Joe! Sounds like things are shaping up for you. I hope everything you need for this build arrives in a timely fashion this way we can all see you enjoy the track next season.
I have missed a few of your prior videos since I haven’t been watching much of anything lately. I’ll have some spare time soon and I look forward to catching up.
Best of everything to ya😉👍
Right on my man. Thanks I will be updating as we go!
Happy for you bro! I'm really hoping it all comes together exactly as you hoped. Wondering if you'll have to take any material out of the block for rod clearance. Thanks for the concise update and congrats man, It's looking really good bro. I think you're gonna need some wheelie bars! LOL
Ya I’m not sure. Some say yes some say no but won’t be big deal if we need too. Thanks for watching
That Should Bump Up the Power, that Should Rip when you get it Done
Hell ya brother
Cool video and thanks for the update ! Curious as to why you’re not having Pete build it ? Very possible I missed that info. Lol. Take care Joe
He dosnt have the machines required. We will do top end at his place tho
You'll be making a nice step up, complimenting your cylinder heads. Good choice on the compression ratio too, just plan on mixing a pail of race gas like VP C-12 to the tank for race day since you're lucky enough to race at near sea level conditions. Expect a fairly big increase in stall speed, and possibly a gear ratio change too.
Yes I am anticipating a stall change. Also have trans brake goin in, I will get some stall taken out of converter before it goes back together thanks for watching
Shaping up nicely. Best of luck with the 414.I like it
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the update buddy
What cam you gonna run ?
Same solid roller as before 248/252 @ 50 and 612 lift with the 1.6 rocker
You every have cooling problems???
Not really
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop i just woundered! My brother and nephew are mopar guys, 66 cornet and 74 dart! Both 360 cars now!
@@jasonhastings5538 nice!
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop my brother is wanting to build a 400+ stroker for his cornet! I shared you channel to him!!👍👍👍
👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks brother, I enjoyed the update.
4 qts?
I agree ( not that it matters) with your choices for this build. I am not familiar with that particular crank but the logic of it and especially with the griddle sounds like a winning combination. Plus I'm sure the difference in cost is a huge plus.
Love those rods, they will definitely handle some serious power.
👍🏻 old pan 4 q new one is 7 q
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop
I caught that, I just had never seen anyone run one.
Dude, I have the same M18 blower, sweet
Milwaukee stuff is the best.
I can’t find you on Instagram
Ya it’s @joeyrocks. I have Instagram way longer than the RUclips channel.