Yep, one of those guys whose always owned something you have, back in the day. Never shocked at the rarity of something and assumes everybody knows how to put an engine in.
Not really... All those unregistered cars would draw too much constabulary attention towards my own collection if we were neighbors - now neighbors by way of half a mile, sure.
Dulcich is my favorite. He seems like the guy who never lost the enthusiasm we all once had for motor stuff when we were teenagers. He seems like a nice guy, too. We had a 318 in our 61 Pioneer wagon...it was SLOOWWW!
I remember reading his articles in Mopar Muscle back in the 1990's when I was in high school. I've had an appreciation for his input for a long time. He'd do complex head porting articles on month and an article about replacing a floor pan the next month. He was and is really knowledgeable about a variety of car repair.
Man I wish I could hang out with this guy and learn things from him. There's just no one around here that wrenches and actually knows what they're doing and the science behind it. Keep making the videos, love em!
To the haters: post your videos. And wring respectable horsepower out of production based garbage. I dare ya. Now, mom says you need to take the trash out and clean your room in the basement. It stinks.
That's the problem with anonymity. Kids & idiots being idiots. It's very easy to yell crap, but giving real insight & commit to common good is pretty hard. There really should be some sort of Internet Yello Dildo of Slapping (tm) that would drive some sense to idiots.
Nobody is saying there shouldn't be criticism. Opinions and error corrections are fine additions. However just mocking the presenter is not criticism. It's idiotic.
nothing wrong with being cheap. im a student and cant afford to pay for motor trend on demand to watch dirt every day and roadkill id be happy to watch ads and sponsored content but i cant really afford to pay for it
318s were definitely not hotrod motors from the factory but anyone who has ever owned one knows that they’re astoundingly good for their intended purpose: cheap to operate, friendly, long lasting, relatively fuel efficient, torque factories. They even sound good with the right exhaust. It’s one of the greatest V8s of all time.
Easy. 1: buy junkyard 318 in good condition. 2: buy dremmel, port and polish exhaust ports, and only port intake (non polish). 3: buy cheap Edelbrock intake. 4: buy cheap Edelbrock 4bbl 5: buy headers 6: buy quality spark plugs wires & spark plugs. 7: buy Comp xe264h cam Easy 320-340hp out of a 318, for around $1,200
I'm wondering about this Compression Ratio change. Doesn't increasing it cause more pressure / stress on the connecting rods and crankshaft since they were only supposed to operate at a lower one? So then.. you'd actually have to replace more components and maybe end up with the just the block itself as the original piece.
aj2674 The 318 was down on power because it had a few restrictive design components: bad head flow, remedied by porting & polishing. A tiny camshaft, remedied by a bigger cam. Tiny carburetors and intake manifold, remedied with bigger carburetor and freer flowing intake manifold. Bad exhaust flow due to restrictive exhaust manifold, remedied by headers. I know for a fact the mods I listed originally will net 320-340hp. I built and dynod my own 318 with the _same things that I listed._
vtr0104 Not with the mods I listed. Still using stock pistons, and not shaving the heads down or decking the block, so compression will remain virtually the same. That said, the stock 318's rods and crank can handle up to 10.2:1 compression ratio quite well.
Cheap power house 403 olds. Get a set of 350 heads, add the 403 valves, upgrade the cam, headers, do a tune on the q-jet & the hei. Easy 13s. Engine Masters should do one.
Agree 100% I lucked into one of these engines and surprised a ton of people at the local circle track. They are WORTHLESS at the junkyards so you could even splurge and get even better heads for it and make it sing!
Ehm, OK, don't really get your comment chief, but I guess your just having a bad day. Though you were a troll but you have DIY videos, which is strange.
As a fan of 318's and 265's I love this. Here in Australia, the 245/265 always out-performed the 318. We always wanted the 340 but it was rare. Still is. There were 3 different versions of the 318. Truck engine, family car and Charger.
340's are relatively rare here too. There were never really standard engines. They came in special editions like a T/A or AAR or you special ordered one.
Yeah the 340 is one that really doesn't come into play when talking about any kind of budget build. They weren't as plentiful as either the 318 or 360, and them being sought after by restorers combined with that rarity makes em spendy to get ahold of
Chrysler had a fully loaded thing call 'Chrysler by Chrysler'. The rest were just Valiants. They were advertised with a 360 but someone at Chrysler ordered a bunch of 340's by mistake. Some owners felt ripped off and demanded a 360. The 340's ended up in police pursuit vehicles.
the 318 was a wusser motor but it was the cheapest to add power to for any car I ever had. my 70 dart with a 318 2 barrel ran 16.9 at 78 mph. A few weeks later, used holley 4 barrel an headers and the car then ran a 15.1 at 89 mph. Still slow, but at the time the new mustangs 5.0s ran a little slower with my dads 85 vette with a chip ran 14.6 to 14.8 so for the time, it was an ok little engine for the used parts that it took to wake it up a bit. The 318s that he said were over rated did spec out at 320 ft lbs of torque which the numbers I got at the track appear to support.
Edelbrock Performer Package - heads, manifold, camshaft, carb. it will wake that puppy up and you'll think you have a HiPo 340. Make sure you have good compression and a steel timing chain. I did that to my 318 after a rebuild long before the heads and AirGap manifold came out. I could not believe the increase in power. I wouldn't be surprised if they overbored it close to a 340.
The late 80s to early 90s or magnum swirl port heads are cheap, flow pretty good and have a smaller combustion chamber to bump up compression with stock pistons. I would start with a pre-magnum early 90s 360 they have factory roller cams.
It was big and sloppy, I remember pouring gobs of STP in it and I had a cherry bomb exhaust on it that would pop off when I floored it...lol. I bought it for $175.
The 318 has nothing wrong with it. It's problem was there was no high compression pistons available for it. Heads from a 360 can be used on it, and a 360 crankshaft can have the mains turned down to increase compression and cubic inches up to 349.5 CI. And of course a good cam is a must. If you change to custom pistons to bring up compression, it will rev like a 340 and possibly higher due to the rotating mass being lighter. Bored over the 318 will grow to 324 I or so. Add all the rest of the things you would put on a 340 or 360 and you'll have a decent performing engine. Magazines have shown builds from 375 to 400 hp without a lot of work. They'll make more with more money spent, like everything else. It's up to you to decide wher to draw the line and go fro more cubes. Another way to go big is to put the Mopar Performance 4.00" crank in it taking it up to 390 CI, but it won't rev as high, but it will provide more low end torque. Anyway, no American V8 is so bad that you can't get at least one horsepower per cubic inch. The 318 will make more than that. And the more attention to detail you take the higher the HP will go!
Great episode. I am not sure there are as many guys who are willing to go this far for cheap HP out of common engines anymore, vs. throwing in a 5.3L LS, but I know we could have really used this advice back in the 1980's.
this is an interesting piece that might suggest an entirely different segment. Perhaps one that goes over some of the less appealing motors from various families and what solutions there are for making them into powerhouses. Dyno graphs and testing would be an awesome addition too!
I had a 1973 Plymouth Scamp 318 and almost no money. I tried an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake with a Performer cam and it just plain sucked. The manifold had no plenum- it was really made to use the stock cam and allow a 4-barrel to mount. I threw a cast iron 360 intake on it- that had flow! With a set of headers it would just tear up to 5000. The 2.53 rear end and 904 transmissions just made life interesting.
Any decent cam in that 318 you have to upgrade the valve springs for the clearance too. My Edelbrock came with lifters and springs. So just gave the springs to the shop that did the heads. I had a low mileage 74 Satellite with a 318. My biggest cost is I went with a DUI ignition in case I decided to do a stroker kit in it and since they had a lifetime warranty and adjustments it was worth the price to plug in one wire and having it custom built for your application was easy timing. Everything else was Edelbrock to help with "matching" ( carb, intake, cam, etc) . I managed over 300hp out of it with nothing but a simple rebuild on the block and the simple upgrades. But I did not build it for off the line. That engine unless stroked was too meh for that huge car. I left the highway gears in it and not only was getting 18mpg, but had awesome acceleration above 40. In hindsight I probably should have forgone the hard core shift kit and stall since it's RPM band was moved so high up, because it hit HARD but you got little payoff on throttle.
I worked on 318 popo cars many years ago. The initial timing was crazy. We had to use advance timing lights. Yup, they were 4v's. Odd engines, but ran like crazy. Take care from Oklahoma Mike and Vee
My senior project in high school was on building a 400 horse 318 for my '72 Duster. If you could do it way back then, should be much easier to build now with all the resources available. That Duster was light weight and quick light to light even stock.
Sometimes, just focus on getting the shortblock right, slap on some heads, get the project on a roadtrip like this video series does...and keep an eye open for deals on a good intake, while saving up $$ for the aftermarket heads you need. Some people will spin the piston 180 degrees on its vertical axis, knurl the skirts, and put the piston back in, so that the newly offset wrist pin treats things like there's a longer connecting rod. If the cam seems to working fine, leave it alone and put in roller rockers of a higher ratio, to increase lift and duration. Certainly swapping to a good dual exhaust and tuning the carb can help the new cam timing breathe better, and its easier to install when the engine is out and going in, than plunking on an intake manifold. Swapping rear gears from economy to something numerically higher, putting a shift kit in the auto trans, can also help the "Feel" of the car
Hey Dulcich, I got my hands on a 85 318. My son and I just tore into it and we're getting ready to do the economy build you and Friberg wrote about years back. It looks like the one you have before you. We're gonna stick it in our Ramcharger. We're going to port the heads as well. It's just so Damn cold up here in Colorado at the moment. Thanks for all the videos. Ralph and Tim
Engine quest heads are oil thru push rod for an LA you can do it but, shaft rockers are way better. pressure fed and more rigid with no chance of a stud backing out or even ripping out.
Really surprised displacement wasn't discussed. Bigger engine leads to more power with less work assuming it's engineered any one bit logical. My current 460 build should be one hell of a street monster with less than 3k in it, the blocks (even in 2 bold configuration) are known to be Stout and there are few cast cranks if any in the aftermarket as strong as the stock ones. Heads leave much to be desired but there is plenty of aftermarket support.
So if the 318 already has low compression, and you throw on 360 heads which lower it even more and up the flow potential, doesn’t that just make it an excellent low buck option for boost? And given its low rpm potential, I’m thinking a centrifugal supercharger would be the cats meow for making absurd power-per-dollar with this engine. Am I wrong?
@Justin DeHetre I've often thought the about the same thing but with a roots blower, the low compression and mild cam on most 2 barrel V8's (particularly from the smog era) should theoretically leave room for a lot of boost.
Centrifugal superchargers and forged pistons are expensive. Well, more expensive than cast flat-topped pistons anyways. It just depends on whether you want to spend $1200 for a 300-ish hp 318 or $2500 for 375-ish hp 318. There isn't a wrong answer. It's just a matter of how much money you want to throw at a 318. Most folks, I imagine, would just go with the low-buck option. Because it's a 318, who cares.
Randall, LA motors that came in trucks are abundant, and can be had with factory forged internals. And whether you're running the low buck 318 or a super hopped up 440, putting a blower on it is putting a blower on it. Either way, you'll have the cost of the blower. But if you can build a supercharged 318 for half the cost of an insanely powerful crate engine that makes comparable power, why wouldn't you? Especially if it keeps your car on the road while you save up for that boost ready crate engine that you just happen to already have a blower for.
The port size on 360 heads is slightly larger than the 318. So they won't match up perfectly when put on a 318. Some say this causes turbulence and hurts performance. Other people say they work just fine. Never tried myself. But I am getting ready to either rebuild or replace a 318 2 barrel that is the original engine in my Chrysler 5th avenue. Car is my daily driver and the engine is getting tired. Weighing my options. Easiest is a long block crate motor. But I have a perfectly good 225 slant 6 I could also use. Only trouble is I would have to find a 904 transmission with bolt pattern for a slant. Last option in mind is I know of an old 3.9 V6 I could have for free. That would bolt up perfect. Because it is the same block as the 318. Only trouble with the 3.9 ( 239) is it only had a carburetor for 1 years only. 1987. It's first year. After that got TBI. So finding a carbureted intake for it will be tricky. I would love to make this car a sleeper. And put something fast in it. But for now I just need transportation. And a quick swap.
great advise. I have the LQ4 6 liter chevrolet all cast iron truck engine so don't need to modify it. sometimes its just fine to buy the vehicle with a good engine. All cast iron for improved reliability is fine with me.
mopars don't always come with mopar engines when new. Example mini vans with mitsubishi engines. I owned an 85 with the 4cylinder mitsubishi and it gave great service, good power and mileage. Now that Fix It Again Tony owns them they are not worth considering. anyone remember the simca
These guys are the best! Steve is a cool guy, I can see him being my neighbor or something and him helping with a project or something. Pretty smart guy too!
kinda cool video. I ran small blocks in high school, but after military service in the Army I came over to the dark side and I just run late 80's to mid 90's Honda stuff under cheap boost.
go to a junkyard and find yourself an LQ9 and fill it with cheap boost. Oh and make sure to shoehorn it into a Mazda RX-7 shell you can buy for like $500. You'll have a 700-800hp car for less than what it costs to build your Honda's for boost :D
My stock ford 390fe also is known to be a snail.. just putting long tube headers on it, pertronix ignition and a 4 barrel intake and a small holley carburetor really woke her up.. she loves to sing now
So being low on compression from the get go. Wouldn’t just a set of turbos be the cheaper answer? That’s solves your airflow problem and low compression will allow for higher boost levels.
Engines were rates saw gross til 72 iirc so without accessories and such then in 72 had to switch to saw net so with accessories intake full exhaust etc... So that's why you were same engine with different ratings around that time. Also due to rega compression and such deoppped slot no more leaded fuel at 105 octane
Hey dulcich got a question. My 318 roadrunner was 2 barrel. I have a mopar brand alum 4 barrel intake. But it leaves the heat crossover open and exposed. Is this a problem. Fixed income
He told you how. Identify the engine's deficiencies and put your $$ there. He doesn't need to do the thinking for the owner of every engine in existence.
camcleat hey man I've built quite a few engines I know how to do the thinking I'd just like to see what he would do. I'm a Chevy man I know what to get for those dodge is a little different.
EQ heads cause the end cylinder have cracks between the valve seats most of the time and the eqs flow more, cam, springs, headers, Hughes intake, big gulp throttle body, tuner, and a stroker kit.
Fair enough, man. I get it, now. Dulcich is certainly the one to listen to on suggestions for the Mopars. We are currently building a '72 360 LA (5.9 L). Having only rebuilt Fords before, I'm having a blast with this platform. They are fun engines, imo.
stroker? lol hell no. when you stroke it, you will have to buy crank, rods, pistons, new cam, new bigger heads, bigger intake. if you want serious power, just turbo it. there is a guy with a turbo 200k mile 5.2 dakota on youtube that made 650 rwhp.
I got a 91 Dodge truck with a 318 roller motor from the factory with a Holley throttle body should I keep the throttle body and what size cam do I need I'm going to leave the bottom in stock and the Piston stock I just want to put the bigger heads on it I think I have 302 heads cast number and the whole motor is a roller motor so do you have a cam for it or who can I find a cam from
So with the 318 I should swap over too 360 heads, and get flat top pistons? How do flat top pistons work, are pistons usually a different shape? and With an aftermarket intake do you keep the plastic assembly that gold the filter?
I have a 91 318 and they said it's a hydraulic roller cam do you have one I have the lifters I just need a cam a big one and a 4 barrel intake for the 91 Dodge truck I don't know if it's the same or what 90 to 93 is a class of their own
Doing a Roller Cam Conversion on an '86 318 out of a D-Series Pick up. . . . Running into an issue with Clearence in Cam journels. Mic. Shows my Lunati Voodo (Part# 20200715) is on point. But Bearings 2,3, and 5 are not clearing. 2 and 3 want to push out of their journels and 5 wants to push out the back of the block. I'm on my third set of Sealed Power (1484m) Bearings, Need help!!
take your old cam and cut a curved grove into each of the matching offending cam journals. stick the cam in and turn it for a while, then pull it out and clean the bearing material off the cam. i had to do this on my 400 mopar. some cam journals just werent right.
Steve what would you recommend I do to my 5.2 magnum..? It’s in a 97 Jeep TJ with Currie D44/D60. 4.88 gears. Motor is new, about 10k on it. I’d like another 50+ hp/tq if possible.
Steve.....know your a Mopar guy ..great video....my buddy had a 318 in a duster years ago...had 340 heads and intake on a 318 short block....boy that thing was a dud....got lumped up by everyone....lol. Maybe find a 340 or 360 to start with...displacement never hurts....why put good money after bad...305 chevy...another engine that never come around...
Brandon G intake, 4 barrel, headers for starting out.. check out finnegans utube channel finnegans garage/FSM.. find the green hornet vids cuz everything they did ther is what u can/should do on urs
@Brandon G Mike and Frigglebiscuit are both right. Start with a 4 barrel aluminum intake by Offenhauser and go with a bone stock Holley 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb. DO NOT go any bigger than 600 CFM and make ABSOLUTELY SURE it is a vacuum secondary because you can't run a 600CFM mechanical secondary carb on a stock engine that small. You may have to purchase a secondary spring tuning kit to get the throttle response just right. After you have blown all your hard earned cash on the insanely over priced Offenhauser intake and surprisingly affordable Holley carb start saving your money for a header, most people like to run the split header for a nice dual exhaust sound but they are expensive just like the intake. After the header you may want to find out what your rear gear is and swap it to a lower one, especially if it starts with the number 2. I'd recommend a 3.55 or 3.73 because a rear gear in the 4's is a bit too low for a 3 speed six cylinder. After you've done intake, exhaust and rear gear start looking in junkyards for a low mileage factory turbo vehicle with an engine that has the same or more displacement than your slant. You should be able to spin the turbo's hot side by adpating the turbos factory mounting hardware to your header collector and then look up and learn how to set your Holley 4 barrel up for a blow through forced induction setup. In fact I think Frieburger did a video on that.
@Kristopher Klassen I never told the guy not to port and mill the head so I have no idea why you would tell him not to listen to me. I was talking to him as if he was working on a budget like most other slant guys and can't afford head and bottom end work. I love Australia mate, big fan of your muscle cars but here in America nobody spends big time and money like that on a slant. The most expensive thing I suggested was an intake manifold. Like many other slant owners he might also be new to hot rodding and not ready to tackle more complicated things involved with head and rotating assembly upgrades like head gaskets, head bolt torque and valve train adjustment. And I don't know how long you've driven a single barrel slant six but I've had one for years and one of the best things I've ever done for it was put a bigger carb on it from a Chevy 292 straight six. The factory single barrel just flat out isn't enough for a stock 225 with a clutch and a 3.23 rear gear. A small 4 barrel vacuum secondary carb significantly improves the throttle response and acceleration over the stock single barrel although it doesn't add that much actual power. Plus that 4 barrel intake and carb are practically necessary for running a turbo, you can blow through stock carb after setting it up properly but its a bottleneck restriction compared to the 4 barrel carb and intake.
Clifford performance👍 6=8. , type that in and see whats possible with a slant! Like the old song says, " one piece at a time," youll get there you just have to be patient
Wouldn't mind seeing a build along these lines on Engine Masters. Stock, easy/cheap mods (a-la this vids content), maybe the next step, and then the usual cram money into the cylinders for nigh-on max results. Sort of the whole modifying life cycle:first car/student life, to first income, then into disposable income/competition
You can do it with a 350 iron block. But most all old heads are gonna be cracked in the bowls or ports. Better off getting a good set of vortec heads or starting with that motor from scratch and building it up. Better off getting a 340 or 360 and stroking it to 408 for the Mopar though
If you want dirt cheap, snag a 5.0 out of an Explorer. Stick in a cam, slap on some old Mustang headers, and you've got at least 300 at the crank for under a grand. With some finesse, 400 isn't out of the question. Just do what you can to reduce stress to the block. I got the whole freakin car for 450 bucks.
@Frigglebiscuit The thought of a turbo on my cammed 400HP 4 barrel 5.9 Magnum makes me cringe. A blower intake for a 5.2/5.9 Magnum is only $700 and a blower sticking through your hood is way cooler than some dinky little pipe.
@Frigglebiscuit I know turbos are cheaper but the nostalgia and brute throttle response of a roots supercharger is undeniable. You generally have to have twin turbos to be capable of flowing as much cfm as a 6 or 8-71 blower and a lot of guys with small pulleys are running insane amounts of boost, often north of 60 psi.
Please tell me the simple things I need to do besides putting 360 magnum heads on my magnum 318 and a better cam and induction I heard i can even mess with the timing to make it faster its really under powered and aint at its full potential
ive got a 77 chevy truck that originally came with a 400 small block......and its still in their in stock form (around 245 - 265hp with 400 foot pounds) it had two cracked heads.....so i got some cheap 350 iron heads, which were slightly ported and polished up......and drilled the steam holes to make them 400 heads they are MUCH better than the original 400 heads...... the engine is not a high RPM motor.....too much stroke.....so valve train is ok and because its still a stock cam.....the bottom end/rod/piston is strong enough...especially for the low rpm again but man, does it run nice...... fires right up, and it PULLS so much low end.....ive pulled people out of snowbanks at an idle im leaving that engine as is.....a turn key work horse that is dead simple, and will last a LONG time
I really hate to disagree with Dulcich but the 318 never seemed to fall short of it's 230HP rating. In fact I always thought the factory rating was a bit conservative. I had a 273 V8 and 904 3 speed auto in my 68 Satellite for years, any time a 5.0 Mustang pulled up next to me I had a guaranteed win coming as long as they had an automatic and I still had a fighting chance if they weren't good with a stick. LA series small block Mopars don't make much HP but they do make decent torque with about 300 foot pounds out of the 273 and a rather impressive 350 foot pounds out of the 318.
ImpactJunky rear end gearing is everything. 3.55 gears will make your 200HP junk seem fast. Just like 2.79 gears will make your 400HP engine feel sluggish.
@AlexCoronaPhoto That's true, I started with a 2.76 and put a 3.55 in the car a couple years later. It made a huge improvement for the 273 but I eventually moved up to a Magnum 360 and it REALLY likes the 3.55
Good ol' butt dyno, way more accurate than any machine a bunch of nerds hook up to an engine. Flip your air cleaner lid and pick up an easy +20 hp, butt dyno guarantees it. Drop a K&N in there, boom, butt dyno feels another +20 hp. Pair of Cherry Bombs on the end of the stock exhaust manifolds and piping, butt dyno knows you picked up like at least 30 hp. Lookit that, three simple mods and you're up at least 75 hp, that's almost 100 hp, and who cares if your engine was only generously factory rated at 230 gross hp, you're putting at least 280 to the pavement if you let a bit of air out of your tires for extra traction. And I bet all those 5.0 Mustangs you spanked were '93 Cobras with the 235 hp 5.0 (and some upgrades to boot) rather than the earlier 140 hp 5.0 turds, right?
@Chris Tower My butt dyno can feel your face if you wanna kiss my ass. But yeah actually the car does smoke Cobra Mustangs, it has a 400+ HP 5.9 magnum in it now that I put in there myself and it sounds way meaner than that smooth idling "built 400" you got on your channel.
They had an episode where they did Nitrous cheater on a 305 that was stock save for the intake and carb and made 557 horse. Of course when they tried to go over 600 it let loose.
Even cheaper option. Go to a scrap yard/junkyard and pull a big block out of an older Chevy truck, preferably one that was in rear end wreck (since that will likely be the reason it's in there, as opposed to a non-functioning engine). Pull it apart, replace what might need to be replaced, drop it in, and drive it until it dies.
Frigglebiscuit that’s a good point, but it also depends on what engine was initially in the vehicle too. If you’re swapping it in place of something that initially had a inline 6, then you’re definitely going to have to do some math to see if the additional power will compensate for the far heavier weight. Regardless, I wouldn’t actually suggest just dropping a big block in something. Was sorta making a joke out of it, but I kind of forgot that a joking tone doesn’t really translate via text.
I have a 350 tbi I will ls swap later on but I want to put power on a spare 350 tbi I have cause it's my daily but if this motor blows i want a spare perfomance motor with 300hp
I had one with a matched kit ( Edelebrock carb, cam and intake) with a DUI ignition, ported heads, headers and a non- over bore rebuild and was getting just over 300hp. But in a 1974 Satellite, was not exactly melting tires.
318 HAS A WEAK CRANK SHAFT 360 HAS ONE OR TWO CRACKED CYL. HEADS 340 IS A GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH 383 IS A GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH AND VERY UNDER RATED FOR ITS POTENTIAL 440 IS A TORQUE MONSTER AND A VERY GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT THE OLD 426 HEMI IS GREAT BUT PRICEY AND HARD TO FIND FOR MOST BUDGETS AND VERY HEAVY BUT MY CHOICE IF POSSIBLE JUST BECAUSE IT IS LEGENDARY
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Dulcich is the kind of neighbor every car guy wishes they had
Damn straight, he's like an encyclopedia of knowledge and can work on nearly anything.
Yep, one of those guys whose always owned something you have, back in the day. Never shocked at the rarity of something and assumes everybody knows how to put an engine in.
Not really... All those unregistered cars would draw too much constabulary attention towards my own collection if we were neighbors - now neighbors by way of half a mile, sure.
ledzeppelin27 no we don’t we are the type of neighbor dulcich wishes he had
I am Dulcich to my neighbors lol
Wow he just nailed a 5 minute monologue with no cuts, no breaks, no mistakes and he never once said "uhm" . Good job Dulcich!
Peter Johnson so many cringy stutters though.
haha...he's clearly reading cue cards...just watch his eyes dart back and forth. He does a good job though.
Peter you're so very right! That's very tough to do. At least for me & my videos.
@@Seth-de9pd if you think steve is reading cue cards you are terribly mistaken. That man is an encyclopedia, that's just the way his eyes are.
@@FanelliRestorations Nope
Dulcich has really grown in this role. Or maybe I've really grown to respect his insight. Awesome dude.
He is still awkward around the cameras. Though I agree I have a lot of respect for the knowledge that this man has.
Dulcich is my favorite. He seems like the guy who never lost the enthusiasm we all once had for motor stuff when we were teenagers. He seems like a nice guy, too.
We had a 318 in our 61 Pioneer wagon...it was SLOOWWW!
I remember reading his articles in Mopar Muscle back in the 1990's when I was in high school. I've had an appreciation for his input for a long time. He'd do complex head porting articles on month and an article about replacing a floor pan the next month. He was and is really knowledgeable about a variety of car repair.
Dulcich for president 2020
Man I wish I could hang out with this guy and learn things from him. There's just no one around here that wrenches and actually knows what they're doing and the science behind it. Keep making the videos, love em!
Idk why so many haters. Trolls wish they were half the gear head this guy is. Great video
To the haters: post your videos. And wring respectable horsepower out of production based garbage. I dare ya. Now, mom says you need to take the trash out and clean your room in the basement. It stinks.
That's the problem with anonymity. Kids & idiots being idiots. It's very easy to yell crap, but giving real insight & commit to common good is pretty hard.
There really should be some sort of Internet Yello Dildo of Slapping (tm) that would drive some sense to idiots.
Idk why so many hater police that don't know the definition of hate vs. criticism.
Nobody is saying there shouldn't be criticism. Opinions and error corrections are fine additions.
However just mocking the presenter is not criticism. It's idiotic.
Eric Scheffler right😂 this man is a walking mechanic encyclopedia
I think you guys should start putting Roadkill Garage on RUclips now.
Moe Par I think your cheap.
probably isn't because read the first and last name
but then they couldn't show all the nudity that the do on MTOD
nothing wrong with being cheap. im a student and cant afford to pay for motor trend on demand to watch dirt every day and roadkill id be happy to watch ads and sponsored content but i cant really afford to pay for it
i agree im not subbing to motor trend on demand for one show
318s were definitely not hotrod motors from the factory but anyone who has ever owned one knows that they’re astoundingly good for their intended purpose: cheap to operate, friendly, long lasting, relatively fuel efficient, torque factories. They even sound good with the right exhaust. It’s one of the greatest V8s of all time.
Easy. 1: buy junkyard 318 in good condition.
2: buy dremmel, port and polish exhaust ports, and only port intake (non polish).
3: buy cheap Edelbrock intake.
4: buy cheap Edelbrock 4bbl
5: buy headers
6: buy quality spark plugs wires & spark plugs.
7: buy Comp xe264h cam
Easy 320-340hp out of a 318, for around $1,200
Morte Parla easy 340 hp out of an original 150 hp engine? Get what you’re saying but don’t believe what you read about bolt on power dude.
I'm wondering about this Compression Ratio change. Doesn't increasing it cause more pressure / stress on the connecting rods and crankshaft since they were only supposed to operate at a lower one? So then.. you'd actually have to replace more components and maybe end up with the just the block itself as the original piece.
aj2674 The 318 was down on power because it had a few restrictive design components: bad head flow, remedied by porting & polishing.
A tiny camshaft, remedied by a bigger cam.
Tiny carburetors and intake manifold, remedied with bigger carburetor and freer flowing intake manifold.
Bad exhaust flow due to restrictive exhaust manifold, remedied by headers.
I know for a fact the mods I listed originally will net 320-340hp. I built and dynod my own 318 with the _same things that I listed._
vtr0104 Not with the mods I listed. Still using stock pistons, and not shaving the heads down or decking the block, so compression will remain virtually the same.
That said, the stock 318's rods and crank can handle up to 10.2:1 compression ratio quite well.
I see. Thank you for the clarification, good Sir. And have an excellent week-end ahead!
Cheap power house 403 olds. Get a set of 350 heads, add the 403 valves, upgrade the cam, headers, do a tune on the q-jet & the hei. Easy 13s. Engine Masters should do one.
Agree 100% I lucked into one of these engines and surprised a ton of people at the local circle track. They are WORTHLESS at the junkyards so you could even splurge and get even better heads for it and make it sing!
Talk
Talk, just talk
Love that Dulcich gets into a lot of MT videos
Ehm, OK, don't really get your comment chief, but I guess your just having a bad day. Though you were a troll but you have DIY videos, which is strange.
As a fan of 318's and 265's I love this. Here in Australia, the 245/265 always out-performed the 318. We always wanted the 340 but it was rare. Still is. There were 3 different versions of the 318. Truck engine, family car and Charger.
Wasn't the 265 the Aussie-special inline 6 with the hemi head? That's explain the power benefit
340's are relatively rare here too. There were never really standard engines. They came in special editions like a T/A or AAR or you special ordered one.
Yeah the 340 is one that really doesn't come into play when talking about any kind of budget build. They weren't as plentiful as either the 318 or 360, and them being sought after by restorers combined with that rarity makes em spendy to get ahold of
We had the 265 six with triple Webers and the special head. Unfortunately, they put either a 3-sp manual behind it or the 727 Torque-Flite.
Chrysler had a fully loaded thing call 'Chrysler by Chrysler'. The rest were just Valiants. They were advertised with a 360 but someone at Chrysler ordered a bunch of 340's by mistake. Some owners felt ripped off and demanded a 360. The 340's ended up in police pursuit vehicles.
Professor Steve Dulcich is the man!!!
yea but can he tie his shoes?
Yay Dulcich! The best extras imo.
the 318 was a wusser motor but it was the cheapest to add power to for any car I ever had.
my 70 dart with a 318 2 barrel ran 16.9 at 78 mph. A few weeks later, used holley 4 barrel an headers and the car then ran a 15.1 at 89 mph. Still slow, but at the time the new mustangs 5.0s ran a little slower with my dads 85 vette with a chip ran 14.6 to 14.8 so for the time, it was an ok little engine for the used parts that it took to wake it up a bit.
The 318s that he said were over rated did spec out at 320 ft lbs of torque which the numbers I got at the track appear to support.
I think I speak for everyone when I say we want to see more of Dulcich!
Edelbrock Performer Package - heads, manifold, camshaft, carb. it will wake that puppy up and you'll think you have a HiPo 340. Make sure you have good compression and a steel timing chain. I did that to my 318 after a rebuild long before the heads and AirGap manifold came out. I could not believe the increase in power. I wouldn't be surprised if they overbored it close to a 340.
I love those "Direct Connection" valve covers!
It's about time I see some Dodge motor info. It's usually always GM. Thanks for letting me know that my 318 is a boat anchor.
The late 80s to early 90s or magnum swirl port heads are cheap, flow pretty good and have a smaller combustion chamber to bump up compression with stock pistons. I would start with a pre-magnum early 90s 360 they have factory roller cams.
Around 1985 318's got roller lifters too.
When you know your job, you talk about it with ease!
I had a 318 in my 67 Charger in High School, it was slow, but what a great car.
The Y block 318's through 67 were a lot better than the LA 318s that followed. They looked like big blocks.
It was big and sloppy, I remember pouring gobs of STP in it and I had a cherry bomb exhaust on it that would pop off when I floored it...lol. I bought it for $175.
@@SophiaAphrodite, you mean a 318 Poly
dulcich has turned into one HELL of a host!! love that guy!!!
Steve's the man!
My sons 72' 318 is getting Magnum heads, LD4B, and Summit cam.
Check, Check, and Check.
👍
The 318 has nothing wrong with it. It's problem was there was no high compression pistons available for it. Heads from a 360 can be used on it, and a 360 crankshaft can have the mains turned down to increase compression and cubic inches up to 349.5 CI. And of course a good cam is a must. If you change to custom pistons to bring up compression, it will rev like a 340 and possibly higher due to the rotating mass being lighter. Bored over the 318 will grow to 324 I or so. Add all the rest of the things you would put on a 340 or 360 and you'll have a decent performing engine. Magazines have shown builds from 375 to 400 hp without a lot of work. They'll make more with more money spent, like everything else. It's up to you to decide wher to draw the line and go fro more cubes. Another way to go big is to put the Mopar Performance 4.00" crank in it taking it up to 390 CI, but it won't rev as high, but it will provide more low end torque. Anyway, no American V8 is so bad that you can't get at least one horsepower per cubic inch. The 318 will make more than that. And the more attention to detail you take the higher the HP will go!
Great episode. I am not sure there are as many guys who are willing to go this far for cheap HP out of common engines anymore, vs. throwing in a 5.3L LS, but I know we could have really used this advice back in the 1980's.
this is an interesting piece that might suggest an entirely different segment. Perhaps one that goes over some of the less appealing motors from various families and what solutions there are for making them into powerhouses. Dyno graphs and testing would be an awesome addition too!
I had a 1973 Plymouth Scamp 318 and almost no money. I tried an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake with a Performer cam and it just plain sucked. The manifold had no plenum- it was really made to use the stock cam and allow a 4-barrel to mount. I threw a cast iron 360 intake on it- that had flow! With a set of headers it would just tear up to 5000. The 2.53 rear end and 904 transmissions just made life interesting.
I would love to hear the same presentation for a Ford Windsor type 289. This is invaluable advice.
Any decent cam in that 318 you have to upgrade the valve springs for the clearance too. My Edelbrock came with lifters and springs. So just gave the springs to the shop that did the heads. I had a low mileage 74 Satellite with a 318. My biggest cost is I went with a DUI ignition in case I decided to do a stroker kit in it and since they had a lifetime warranty and adjustments it was worth the price to plug in one wire and having it custom built for your application was easy timing. Everything else was Edelbrock to help with "matching" ( carb, intake, cam, etc) . I managed over 300hp out of it with nothing but a simple rebuild on the block and the simple upgrades. But I did not build it for off the line. That engine unless stroked was too meh for that huge car. I left the highway gears in it and not only was getting 18mpg, but had awesome acceleration above 40. In hindsight I probably should have forgone the hard core shift kit and stall since it's RPM band was moved so high up, because it hit HARD but you got little payoff on throttle.
I have a 72 duster so I love referencing all of the knowledge dulsich has given over the years.
I worked on 318 popo cars many years ago. The initial timing was crazy. We had to use advance timing lights. Yup, they were 4v's. Odd engines, but ran like crazy.
Take care from Oklahoma
Mike and Vee
what did that 318 combination deliver for hp & torque
?
My senior project in high school was on building a 400 horse 318 for my '72 Duster. If you could do it way back then, should be much easier to build now with all the resources available. That Duster was light weight and quick light to light even stock.
Go Steve !!
Sometimes, just focus on getting the shortblock right, slap on some heads, get the project on a roadtrip like this video series does...and keep an eye open for deals on a good intake, while saving up $$ for the aftermarket heads you need. Some people will spin the piston 180 degrees on its vertical axis, knurl the skirts, and put the piston back in, so that the newly offset wrist pin treats things like there's a longer connecting rod. If the cam seems to working fine, leave it alone and put in roller rockers of a higher ratio, to increase lift and duration. Certainly swapping to a good dual exhaust and tuning the carb can help the new cam timing breathe better, and its easier to install when the engine is out and going in, than plunking on an intake manifold. Swapping rear gears from economy to something numerically higher, putting a shift kit in the auto trans, can also help the "Feel" of the car
Hey Dulcich, I got my hands on a 85 318. My son and I just tore into it and we're getting ready to do the economy build you and Friberg wrote about years back. It looks like the one you have before you. We're gonna stick it in our Ramcharger. We're going to port the heads as well. It's just so Damn cold up here in Colorado at the moment. Thanks for all the videos.
Ralph and Tim
how much do you need to take off the 360 head to make compression work
My best friend had a 97 dodge full size pickup with a 318, it was a fantastic truck.
4" stroke(391"-402") 10 .00:1 cpmpression Engine Quest Heads Bigger Hydralic cam 241 duration at 50..-540 lift
Engine quest heads are oil thru push rod for an LA you can do it but, shaft rockers are way better. pressure fed and more rigid with no chance of a stud backing out or even ripping out.
Really surprised displacement wasn't discussed. Bigger engine leads to more power with less work assuming it's engineered any one bit logical. My current 460 build should be one hell of a street monster with less than 3k in it, the blocks (even in 2 bold configuration) are known to be Stout and there are few cast cranks if any in the aftermarket as strong as the stock ones. Heads leave much to be desired but there is plenty of aftermarket support.
So if the 318 already has low compression, and you throw on 360 heads which lower it even more and up the flow potential, doesn’t that just make it an excellent low buck option for boost? And given its low rpm potential, I’m thinking a centrifugal supercharger would be the cats meow for making absurd power-per-dollar with this engine. Am I wrong?
@Justin DeHetre I've often thought the about the same thing but with a roots blower, the low compression and mild cam on most 2 barrel V8's (particularly from the smog era) should theoretically leave room for a lot of boost.
Centrifugal superchargers and forged pistons are expensive. Well, more expensive than cast flat-topped pistons anyways. It just depends on whether you want to spend $1200 for a 300-ish hp 318 or $2500 for 375-ish hp 318. There isn't a wrong answer. It's just a matter of how much money you want to throw at a 318.
Most folks, I imagine, would just go with the low-buck option. Because it's a 318, who cares.
Randall, LA motors that came in trucks are abundant, and can be had with factory forged internals. And whether you're running the low buck 318 or a super hopped up 440, putting a blower on it is putting a blower on it. Either way, you'll have the cost of the blower. But if you can build a supercharged 318 for half the cost of an insanely powerful crate engine that makes comparable power, why wouldn't you? Especially if it keeps your car on the road while you save up for that boost ready crate engine that you just happen to already have a blower for.
That sounds suspiciously like an explanation to the wife of why you had to buy a Paxton Novi even though you didn't need it right now. I approve.
@@rwaitt14153 lol
The port size on 360 heads is slightly larger than the 318. So they won't match up perfectly when put on a 318. Some say this causes turbulence and hurts performance. Other people say they work just fine. Never tried myself. But I am getting ready to either rebuild or replace a 318 2 barrel that is the original engine in my Chrysler 5th avenue. Car is my daily driver and the engine is getting tired. Weighing my options. Easiest is a long block crate motor. But I have a perfectly good 225 slant 6 I could also use. Only trouble is I would have to find a 904 transmission with bolt pattern for a slant. Last option in mind is I know of an old 3.9 V6 I could have for free. That would bolt up perfect. Because it is the same block as the 318. Only trouble with the 3.9 ( 239) is it only had a carburetor for 1 years only. 1987. It's first year. After that got TBI. So finding a carbureted intake for it will be tricky. I would love to make this car a sleeper. And put something fast in it. But for now I just need transportation. And a quick swap.
it's really good of steve to take the time to explain this stuff because people aren't born knowing it and even ed pink had to start somewhere.
the american Edd China. minus the latex glove
Fadzil che man seriously, that’s who I thought this was until I saw it was roadkill haha.
I always found the gloves to be a bit strange. I don't know of any auto techs that wear those types of gloves when working on a vehicle.
Steve is the Mopar king.
Glad to see him back.
great advise. I have the LQ4 6 liter chevrolet all cast iron truck engine so don't need to modify it. sometimes its just fine to buy the vehicle with a good engine. All cast iron for improved reliability is fine with me.
well, ls engines dont belong in mopars, so there is that.
mopars don't always come with mopar engines when new. Example mini vans with mitsubishi engines. I owned an 85 with the 4cylinder mitsubishi and it gave great service, good power and mileage. Now that Fix It Again Tony owns them they are not worth considering. anyone remember the simca
I love these episodes with Neil Breen
These guys are the best! Steve is a cool guy, I can see him being my neighbor or something and him helping with a project or something. Pretty smart guy too!
kinda cool video. I ran small blocks in high school, but after military service in the Army I came over to the dark side and I just run late 80's to mid 90's Honda stuff under cheap boost.
go to a junkyard and find yourself an LQ9 and fill it with cheap boost. Oh and make sure to shoehorn it into a Mazda RX-7 shell you can buy for like $500. You'll have a 700-800hp car for less than what it costs to build your Honda's for boost :D
legit :D
have you seen the boostedboiz first gen odyssey van? It has a double wishbone suspension. its a pretty cool build
My stock ford 390fe also is known to be a snail.. just putting long tube headers on it, pertronix ignition and a 4 barrel intake and a small holley carburetor really woke her up.. she loves to sing now
In Cali a 318 w/340 head's was a "Bogus 340." Haven't heard that in a while.
The ol LS engine. Brings back memories
So being low on compression from the get go. Wouldn’t just a set of turbos be the cheaper answer? That’s solves your airflow problem and low compression will allow for higher boost levels.
Engines were rates saw gross til 72 iirc so without accessories and such then in 72 had to switch to saw net so with accessories intake full exhaust etc... So that's why you were same engine with different ratings around that time. Also due to rega compression and such deoppped slot no more leaded fuel at 105 octane
Hey dulcich got a question. My 318 roadrunner was 2 barrel. I have a mopar brand alum 4 barrel intake. But it leaves the heat crossover open and exposed. Is this a problem. Fixed income
I'd like to see a similar video using the more modern 5.2 and 5.9 engines found in 4x4 trucks. Show us how to make some power on the cheap.
He told you how. Identify the engine's deficiencies and put your $$ there.
He doesn't need to do the thinking for the owner of every engine in existence.
camcleat hey man I've built quite a few engines I know how to do the thinking I'd just like to see what he would do. I'm a Chevy man I know what to get for those dodge is a little different.
EQ heads cause the end cylinder have cracks between the valve seats most of the time and the eqs flow more, cam, springs, headers, Hughes intake, big gulp throttle body, tuner, and a stroker kit.
Fair enough, man. I get it, now. Dulcich is certainly the one to listen to on suggestions for the Mopars.
We are currently building a '72 360 LA (5.9 L). Having only rebuilt Fords before, I'm having a blast with this platform. They are fun engines, imo.
stroker? lol hell no. when you stroke it, you will have to buy crank, rods, pistons, new cam, new bigger heads, bigger intake. if you want serious power, just turbo it. there is a guy with a turbo 200k mile 5.2 dakota on youtube that made 650 rwhp.
I got a 91 Dodge truck with a 318 roller motor from the factory with a Holley throttle body should I keep the throttle body and what size cam do I need I'm going to leave the bottom in stock and the Piston stock I just want to put the bigger heads on it I think I have 302 heads cast number and the whole motor is a roller motor so do you have a cam for it or who can I find a cam from
Thank you all very much for getting back with me I guess all people ain't important thank you for showing me I'm not important
Is there a video of a chevy 305 small block showing an install a maXpeedingrods GT35 GT3582 turbocharger?
So with the 318 I should swap over too 360 heads, and get flat top pistons? How do flat top pistons work, are pistons usually a different shape? and With an aftermarket intake do you keep the plastic assembly that gold the filter?
I have a 91 318 and they said it's a hydraulic roller cam do you have one I have the lifters I just need a cam a big one and a 4 barrel intake for the 91 Dodge truck I don't know if it's the same or what 90 to 93 is a class of their own
Doing a Roller Cam Conversion on an '86 318 out of a D-Series Pick up. . . . Running into an issue with Clearence in Cam journels.
Mic. Shows my Lunati Voodo (Part# 20200715) is on point. But Bearings 2,3, and 5 are not clearing. 2 and 3 want to push out of their journels and 5 wants to push out the back of the block. I'm on my third set of Sealed Power (1484m) Bearings, Need help!!
take your old cam and cut a curved grove into each of the matching offending cam journals. stick the cam in and turn it for a while, then pull it out and clean the bearing material off the cam. i had to do this on my 400 mopar. some cam journals just werent right.
Steve what would you recommend I do to my 5.2 magnum..?
It’s in a 97 Jeep TJ with Currie D44/D60. 4.88 gears.
Motor is new, about 10k on it. I’d like another 50+ hp/tq if possible.
What do you recommend to get more power out of a 307 motor I put 350 cylinder heads on a bigger carburetor and headers??
How to put 350 chevy motor into/ in place of, 318- 89dodge ramcharger ? How little or much trouble?
How much can you raise compression by reducing the combustion chamber before you loose power from smaller displacement?
never.
Steve.....know your a Mopar guy ..great video....my buddy had a 318 in a duster years ago...had 340 heads and intake on a 318 short block....boy that thing was a dud....got lumped up by everyone....lol. Maybe find a 340 or 360 to start with...displacement never hurts....why put good money after bad...305 chevy...another engine that never come around...
I have a l6 - slant 6 could use some suggestions
Brandon G intake, 4 barrel, headers for starting out.. check out finnegans utube channel finnegans garage/FSM.. find the green hornet vids cuz everything they did ther is what u can/should do on urs
turbo
@Brandon G Mike and Frigglebiscuit are both right. Start with a 4 barrel aluminum intake by Offenhauser and go with a bone stock Holley 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb. DO NOT go any bigger than 600 CFM and make ABSOLUTELY SURE it is a vacuum secondary because you can't run a 600CFM mechanical secondary carb on a stock engine that small. You may have to purchase a secondary spring tuning kit to get the throttle response just right. After you have blown all your hard earned cash on the insanely over priced Offenhauser intake and surprisingly affordable Holley carb start saving your money for a header, most people like to run the split header for a nice dual exhaust sound but they are expensive just like the intake.
After the header you may want to find out what your rear gear is and swap it to a lower one, especially if it starts with the number 2. I'd recommend a 3.55 or 3.73 because a rear gear in the 4's is a bit too low for a 3 speed six cylinder. After you've done intake, exhaust and rear gear start looking in junkyards for a low mileage factory turbo vehicle with an engine that has the same or more displacement than your slant. You should be able to spin the turbo's hot side by adpating the turbos factory mounting hardware to your header collector and then look up and learn how to set your Holley 4 barrel up for a blow through forced induction setup. In fact I think Frieburger did a video on that.
@Kristopher Klassen I never told the guy not to port and mill the head so I have no idea why you would tell him not to listen to me.
I was talking to him as if he was working on a budget like most other slant guys and can't afford head and bottom end work. I love Australia mate, big fan of your muscle cars but here in America nobody spends big time and money like that on a slant. The most expensive thing I suggested was an intake manifold.
Like many other slant owners he might also be new to hot rodding and not ready to tackle more complicated things involved with head and rotating assembly upgrades like head gaskets, head bolt torque and valve train adjustment. And I don't know how long you've driven a single barrel slant six but I've had one for years and one of the best things I've ever done for it was put a bigger carb on it from a Chevy 292 straight six. The factory single barrel just flat out isn't enough for a stock 225 with a clutch and a 3.23 rear gear.
A small 4 barrel vacuum secondary carb significantly improves the throttle response and acceleration over the stock single barrel although it doesn't add that much actual power. Plus that 4 barrel intake and carb are practically necessary for running a turbo, you can blow through stock carb after setting it up properly but its a bottleneck restriction compared to the 4 barrel carb and intake.
Clifford performance👍 6=8. , type that in and see whats possible with a slant! Like the old song says, " one piece at a time," youll get there you just have to be patient
Wouldn't mind seeing a build along these lines on Engine Masters. Stock, easy/cheap mods (a-la this vids content), maybe the next step, and then the usual cram money into the cylinders for nigh-on max results.
Sort of the whole modifying life cycle:first car/student life, to first income, then into disposable income/competition
Is that going in the dirt track challenger?
Should I try to rebuild my camaros 305 engine or should I upgrade to something else?
simonsayz03 ls
Hey Dulcich, what would you do with a slant 6 to make it better?
Ed China or Dulcich, bring em on, like them both!
Getting ready to build my first engine, Grandpa's 63 283 any proven suggestions on this great little motor would be great! Thanks guys!
Hey I got 307 Oldsmobile engine how should I go by building it to get more power
You can do it with a 350 iron block. But most all old heads are gonna be cracked in the bowls or ports. Better off getting a good set of vortec heads or starting with that motor from scratch and building it up. Better off getting a 340 or 360 and stroking it to 408 for the Mopar though
If you want dirt cheap, snag a 5.0 out of an Explorer. Stick in a cam, slap on some old Mustang headers, and you've got at least 300 at the crank for under a grand. With some finesse, 400 isn't out of the question. Just do what you can to reduce stress to the block.
I got the whole freakin car for 450 bucks.
or just turbo a 318/360 magnum....
@Frigglebiscuit The thought of a turbo on my cammed 400HP 4 barrel 5.9 Magnum makes me cringe. A blower intake for a 5.2/5.9 Magnum is only $700 and a blower sticking through your hood is way cooler than some dinky little pipe.
ImpactJunky blowers dont make power for the money. Its a huuuge waste imo.
@Frigglebiscuit I know turbos are cheaper but the nostalgia and brute throttle response of a roots supercharger is undeniable. You generally have to have twin turbos to be capable of flowing as much cfm as a 6 or 8-71 blower and a lot of guys with small pulleys are running insane amounts of boost, often north of 60 psi.
Please tell me the simple things I need to do besides putting 360 magnum heads on my magnum 318 and a better cam and induction I heard i can even mess with the timing to make it faster its really under powered and aint at its full potential
ive got a 77 chevy truck that originally came with a 400 small block......and its still in their in stock form (around 245 - 265hp with 400 foot pounds)
it had two cracked heads.....so i got some cheap 350 iron heads, which were slightly ported and polished up......and drilled the steam holes to make them 400 heads
they are MUCH better than the original 400 heads......
the engine is not a high RPM motor.....too much stroke.....so valve train is ok
and because its still a stock cam.....the bottom end/rod/piston is strong enough...especially for the low rpm again
but man, does it run nice...... fires right up, and it PULLS
so much low end.....ive pulled people out of snowbanks at an idle
im leaving that engine as is.....a turn key work horse that is dead simple, and will last a LONG time
I really hate to disagree with Dulcich but the 318 never seemed to fall short of it's 230HP rating. In fact I always thought the factory rating was a bit conservative. I had a 273 V8 and 904 3 speed auto in my 68 Satellite for years, any time a 5.0 Mustang pulled up next to me I had a guaranteed win coming as long as they had an automatic and I still had a fighting chance if they weren't good with a stick. LA series small block Mopars don't make much HP but they do make decent torque with about 300 foot pounds out of the 273 and a rather impressive 350 foot pounds out of the 318.
ImpactJunky rear end gearing is everything. 3.55 gears will make your 200HP junk seem fast. Just like 2.79 gears will make your 400HP engine feel sluggish.
@AlexCoronaPhoto That's true, I started with a 2.76 and put a 3.55 in the car a couple years later. It made a huge improvement for the 273 but I eventually moved up to a Magnum 360 and it REALLY likes the 3.55
@trucker 9000 I get what you're saying but unfortunately I wasn't alive in the 80's
Good ol' butt dyno, way more accurate than any machine a bunch of nerds hook up to an engine. Flip your air cleaner lid and pick up an easy +20 hp, butt dyno guarantees it. Drop a K&N in there, boom, butt dyno feels another +20 hp. Pair of Cherry Bombs on the end of the stock exhaust manifolds and piping, butt dyno knows you picked up like at least 30 hp. Lookit that, three simple mods and you're up at least 75 hp, that's almost 100 hp, and who cares if your engine was only generously factory rated at 230 gross hp, you're putting at least 280 to the pavement if you let a bit of air out of your tires for extra traction. And I bet all those 5.0 Mustangs you spanked were '93 Cobras with the 235 hp 5.0 (and some upgrades to boot) rather than the earlier 140 hp 5.0 turds, right?
@Chris Tower My butt dyno can feel your face if you wanna kiss my ass.
But yeah actually the car does smoke Cobra Mustangs, it has a 400+ HP 5.9 magnum in it now that I put in there myself and it sounds way meaner than that smooth idling "built 400" you got on your channel.
Can my magnum 318 make 400 hp if it alredy does 230 on stock its a 1999 one . And how and what do i need to put on it
Can you make one on an old small block chevy???
They had an episode where they did Nitrous cheater on a 305 that was stock save for the intake and carb and made 557 horse. Of course when they tried to go over 600 it let loose.
So what did you get out of that motor after the mods?????:
My 74' got just past 300 with the edelbrock matched set ( intake, carb,cam) ported heads, headers and DUI ignition.
Just find a 360 Magnum and buy EQ318 Heads and swap use LA Intake same cam as suggested Header 2 1/2 exhaust
Dulcich, you're the man! 😃
Even cheaper option. Go to a scrap yard/junkyard and pull a big block out of an older Chevy truck, preferably one that was in rear end wreck (since that will likely be the reason it's in there, as opposed to a non-functioning engine). Pull it apart, replace what might need to be replaced, drop it in, and drive it until it dies.
ACE Driving Chevys don’t die
stock big block chevies are low compression, low hp smogger garbage. i hope you will be dealing with that issue.
Frigglebiscuit of course not. We’re talking about a cheap engine, not a good engine.
ACE Driving a smoggy big block chevy would probably be slower than what came out of it, considering how much a bbc weighs...
Frigglebiscuit that’s a good point, but it also depends on what engine was initially in the vehicle too. If you’re swapping it in place of something that initially had a inline 6, then you’re definitely going to have to do some math to see if the additional power will compensate for the far heavier weight. Regardless, I wouldn’t actually suggest just dropping a big block in something. Was sorta making a joke out of it, but I kind of forgot that a joking tone doesn’t really translate via text.
How much power does it make?
I had a similar build in a 1974 and was getting just past 300. But did spend a lot of money on a DUI ignition too.
Ahh. The ever-present leaking air nozzle i the background. So soothing.
I have a 350 tbi I will ls swap later on but I want to put power on a spare 350 tbi I have cause it's my daily but if this motor blows i want a spare perfomance motor with 300hp
How many horses 🐎 did it make???
I had one with a matched kit ( Edelebrock carb, cam and intake) with a DUI ignition, ported heads, headers and a non- over bore rebuild and was getting just over 300hp. But in a 1974 Satellite, was not exactly melting tires.
So what kind of power did that thing finally put out?
Love roadkill keep it up with friburger and Finnigan doing projects
estimated hp and tq for this build? I am building one very similar.
How much horsepower did you gain by those improvements and was the price worth it
Giovanni Bazzini yes bc more than likely these car guys know exactly where to find good cheap parts
What are the Deficiencies in a 305 Chevy ?
What would be the deficiencies of a chevy 350 say mid 70's to mid 80s?
All of it
Love all the Extras!!!!!!!!
I love it
318 HAS A WEAK CRANK SHAFT 360 HAS ONE OR TWO CRACKED CYL. HEADS 340 IS A GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH 383 IS A GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH AND VERY UNDER RATED FOR ITS POTENTIAL 440 IS A TORQUE MONSTER AND A VERY GOOD BASE TO WORK WITH THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT THE OLD 426 HEMI IS GREAT BUT PRICEY AND HARD TO FIND FOR MOST BUDGETS AND VERY HEAVY BUT MY CHOICE IF POSSIBLE JUST BECAUSE IT IS LEGENDARY
Informative. Good advise.