Clutch Talk - How long should they last?
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- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2019
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Think I’ll take it easy at stop lights,thanks✌️
Thx bro!
I'm at 95 000km and there are no negative signs yet.
You have 3 choices.
1. Dump your clutch and don't waste it, but you will hurt your transmission.
2. Be relatively careful with releasing your clutch and damage clutch and transmission equally.
3. Be super careful with releasing clutch, it will waste it, but your transmission will not be damaged.
It's a tradeoff between damaging the transmission or the clutch. Dumping is also bad for the engine. It's smarter to damage your clutch a bit more than engine or transmission, because you can replace it relatively cheaply. Mine costs about $100.
Here's what I did: When I opened the clutch on my K1200LT (bought used, 48K) the clutch plate/disc was 5 mm thick (about 0.4mm or 26% left) no visible oil contamination, although there was some oil on the bottom of the gear box housing. Not sure if the clutch was ever serviced, likely yes, as I found a very loose screw holding the gear box to the intermediate flange (the nasty top/right one). However, my clutch was definitively slipping, so I assembled the clutch housing cover, the plate/disc and the thrust plate together and used 3 bar clamps to press them together to the max. I was still able to spin the plate/disc with my hand. So it is probable that the housing cover and the thrust plate lost some 0.2mm each as well. I'm replacing now the clutch plate/disc and the main seal as the work to take the bike apart and put it back together for this is HUGE! Took me about 20 hrs of work to get to the clutch alone.
I don’t know as I have never worn one out. My current highest mileage standard shift vehicle is a 2006 Sonata with 165,000 miles on the clutch. When I replaced my LT clutch due to oil contamination, it had worn only .05 mm after 54,000 miles. I extrapolated that wear rate to 700,000 miles! I suspect the oil contamination may have slowed the wear although it did let the clutch slip more while cruising which would increase wear. I think a properly ridden LT would easily go 200,000 miles on a clutch from purely a wear perspective.
I second your recommendation to replace all parts if they are worn. Mine were not worn much at all and I should have just re-used them other than the oil soaked disk. Instead, I decided to have the clutch rebuilt by Southland Clutch in San Diego based on some reviews I had read. Big mistake. They didn’t set one of the disk rivets properly so I had to send it back for rework losing two weeks of time. They then convinced me that the metal parts should be lightly machined to facilitate bedding of the new friction material. Unfortunately, they apparently machined the clutch slightly off axis as the clutch shuddered terribly at initial engagement after the rebuild. It has gotten a little better with wear, but will still shudder occasionally if the RPM is less than about 1500 at initial engagement. I used to engage at about 1200 and hold that RPM until full engagement. I know have to engage initially at 1500-2000 and then let the RPM decline to 1200 or so as I approach full engagement.
I’m not worried about wearing it out now as I know that the next replacement will need all new parts so I am just riding it and not worrying about wear. Moral of the story: Buy all new parts if your existing parts are worn enough to warrant replacement. And if you choose to rebuild, I would not recommend Southland Clutch. My parts were not worn much at all and had almost no bluing so I should have just scuffed them with sandpaper and put them back in with a new disk. Live and learn.
Great video as usual. Learning lots from you and your videos, well done. Love all the videos, has helped me out lots.Looking forward to learning more. I was wondering if you could do a video showing service of air filler on 2018 Bmw k 1600 GT. I am having a hard time with the plastics around the tank that need to come off. My manual doesn’t show how side tank covers come out. Supposed to be a grommet but I can see them and afraid to pull on them in fear of breaking them. I have tried but not have been successful. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Don
The next time I get one in the shop I will make a video for it, Thanks for the idea!
I am finding your videos very helpful. I have a 2004 K1200RS and when I bought it used it had 17k miles and had to replace the clutch. Now at 30K miles, the clutch is slipping and being told it has to be replaced. I am going to try to do this myself, but was wondering if you can recommend non-BMW parts for this job. I appreciate it. Thanks.
Do you have any suggestions on repairing my instrument cluster? Have you had one repaired before? Thanks
I would like to see how to replace handlebar grips on this bike. I would like to do on mine.
I would like to have a heated grips.
Can you recommend where I can get the seals for a stearing damper? I really don't want to spend the money to replace the unit. Thanks.
Is it difficult to change out the clutch and main rear seal, input shift seal? Do I need a specific bmw tool to do any of these part replacements? Mahalo in advance!!! Aloha
Excellent demonstration of the clutch parts, thanks, got o problem with my K75, clutch is knocking when idling but stops when I pull the clutch lever in, i have removed the gearbox from the engine, replaced the bearing at the far end of the push rod refitted the gearbox, it's still knocking, removed the gearbox and I'm now looking at the clutch as the problem???
You may have a bad throw out bearing or perhaps an input shaft bearing. Regardless a take apart is in order
Smoothness is the key starting and stopping don't slip the clutch
What is your input about rev matching while down shifting on the LT? The video made me think of how that might affect the clutch since it's a dry clutch.
been wondering this myself since I heard him first mention over-revving.
I rev match all of the time. Once the bike is moving I hammer the hell out of it!! :-)
Kupplung (Koo-ploong) = Clutch, Scheibe (Shy-beh) = Disc, the extra 's' is like Clutch's Disc
Kirk, Could you do a video on programming the key FOB for a K1200?
If I get a call for one I will make it. Thanks for the idea!
You don’t by chance have the part number on that o-ring do you?
Kirk, quick question: I will be taking my starter out to look for debris on the input shaft/clutch on my 1150GS. Although not ideal, is there any way to inject some lube onto the shaft from there?, if so what type do you suggest?
Thanks!
Richard
I use STABURAGS NBU 12 paste. I am not sure you can get to it by removing the starter
@@kirksmotorrad Yeah I was afraid of that. A BMW service center replaced the clutch and shaft assembly some 20,000 miles ago - and has been ok, but I am still weary in case she goes again.
Thanks for the continued help!!
Richard
I have 2003 k1200lt with just 11000 miles on it, but clutch slipping when I go 4 or 5 gear and rev it up. I drilled weep hole and some oil comes out. My question is, will bike run for some time with this clutch disk if I will drive carefully or it will get worse pretty soon?
It will get worse over time for sure but if you are careful you should be able to ride it a while. It sounds like the O ring dried out and is leaking in the clutch carrier.
86,000 and take off still smooth as silk
km or miles??
@@henryjp3741 86;000 Miles. Although the odometer is off by 3,62% so it's actually a few thousand miles less than that.
Hi I don't now if you could help . Your videos are very interesting. My 2001 lt all of a sudden got switched of and when I started again I had no running lights and no lights in the dash . When I switched it of looked like the safe starter was still ingaging even when I remove the key it's still going and trying to start on its own
please contact me via kirksmotorrad.com
I am assuming that these are dry clutches. How does the longevity change for the newer models that gave a wet clutch
I truly wish the LT had a wet clutch... it is all how you drive it though. Wet clutches can be more forgiving but still wear out with hard use.
Dears, It is posible to have a wear in the clutch disc in a Goldwing DCT 2019, automatic with 20.000 miles?
Anything is possible. I would take it in to a dealer and have them check it. It may be out of adjustment.
Your perseverance paid off. Muller it instead. Last resort.
What is the highest mileage clutch you have seen? Mine feels good at 65,700
150k
No more engine braking ...
Yes after all that expense, you should have rebuilt that worn out engine.
"Kooploongshyba"
That single plate dry clutch is a bad design. I got 60,000 miles on my R1200CL before I changed it. This clutch does not stand up in extreme conditions. Bad Design!