I've had the paid channel for almost 2 years. Even having experience I find the channel exceptional for training. Let's say, top 3 best on You Tube IMHO. It has something for everyone for sure.
I need a guy like you to help me find my problem , got a bad first /cold start issue with a 1.6 8v SR 102 hp vw engine . Starts right up but then idles poorly in 3 cylinders and then drops rpm and dies . after driving it for 5 minutes when car gets warmer it starts right up no issues any more . it has got power and pulls ok but sometimes around 2000rpm it shakes a bit . Help?
Gonna sub, not only for the great info, but I see you are still replying to comments today on a 5 year old video. Very rare and commendable. Much respect. Thanks.
I have the same problem cylinder 4 .sometimes it runs good sometimes it runs bad.but always cyl 4 .the car had a ticking noise after the head gaskets were replaced .so I replaced both rocker arms and lifters .i don’t know that it had a code p0304 before I replaced the rockers because like I said it had a blown head gasket .the machine shop said the heads and valves were ok .when they resurfaced the heads .so now I’m stuck with the cyl 4 misfire .compression test showed bad compression .bit some times it runs great .you nailed it for me .its a bad lifter ona new rocker assembly but more than likely a piece of some thing is blocking the oiling orifice for that lifter. Thanks a million your thorough diagnosis lead me to the only problem it could be .bad lifter or more likely a piece of silicone blocking the lifter orifice intermittently.now I can fix the car for zero dollars .
My daughters 2002 mazda626 has a cylinder 3 misfire, changed the spark plug, coil and wires with no change with rough idle I’m at my wits end. Your video has given me other possibilities to explore. Thank you for your video.
I had a 94 Chrysler Laser years ago with intermittent low compression on one cylinder similar to this case. It turned out to be a bad valve guide. Using a compression gauge it would read bad one time and OK the next. It also fouled the plug with the bad valve. It was bad from new. The dealer knurled the guides and it worked for 6 months or so, long enough to get out of warranty. I ended up replacing the cylinder head after which it ran far better than when new. Oil in the cylinder made it want to pre-ignite. The knock sensor backed off the timing and it was a stone. After the fix I could lay rubber with it.
I had almost the same problem on a 2000 dodge G/C the only difference was the misfire was sporadic but we couldn't recreate the misfire over several months and 2 trips into the shop. 3rd time being the charm my customer brought it in when it was actually misfiring. For the misfire to surface they had to be on there way home from work with lots of stop and go traffic and the temperature was above 85 degrees and still intermittent. After checking spark and fuel that were good, it had low compression on cylinder 3 with a leak down test proving it to be a bad exhaust valve. After removing the heads we could see the issue which was a hairline crack in cylinder 3 exhaust valve. After watching this I started to think what the vacuum gauge would show while doing a cylinder balance test. Next time I get a misfire like this I'm going to have to look at this just to see if there's anything of value in it. Thank you for the great videos you always have great content.
I just changed the heads on the 2000 Ranger 3.0 with 188,000 miles. They had known exhaust valve issues over time. Turns out I had cylinders 4 and 6 getting coolant in the chamber which was cracking spark plugs and then once I had the old heads on the bench, 5 out of 6 had brake parts cleaner leak past the exhaust valve seats. Now with new heads with hardened seats, all new head, intake and valve cover gaskets, I am battling high LTFT's. Got new O2 sensors on the way since mine have about 60,000 miles on them with raw fuel from misfires for who knows how long. Good news is that there is no sludge in the motor and the cylinder walls still have the cross hatch on them.
Stumbled on the channel today and it's awesome. Wife's 2008 caravan 3.3 has a intermittent cylinder 1 misfire. I did plugs and coil and it ran good for a day now the light is back on. I'm guessing I'm dealing with a lifter problem. Thing has 109000 and is a decent ride. When you first start it she idles a little rough but smooths out after a bit.
Lifter problem wouldn’t be intermittent like that though. Intermittent sticking valve is my guess. Caused by binding valve guide, or weak valve spring.
I had a dodge minivan with a 3.8 many years ago with a very intermittent misfire on cyl. 3 that it took months before they could get to the shop with it still miss firing. It turned out to be a cracked exhaust valve on cyl 3.
Rear valve cover isn't that bad on that van. I did stem seals on one at 485,000 miles. Last I heard it was still running just fine North of 500,000. Commercial van with lots of miles and few cold start heat cycles as well as being in an arid environment and having a dedicated mechanic helped it reach a round trip to the moon and back. Great new tools for the toolbox on my shoulders. Thanks Paul.
Dont skip anything please i wanted to see how you connected that vaccuum gauge. Edit: I'm a fairly new mechanic with 3 years experience and these videos have helped me advance in my career. I look like the smart guy at work thanks to your videos.
Join my classes I offer on my website. They will elevate you even more my friend. Thanks! Hope to see you there! www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Mine has a misfire .. going to the shop.. just replaced all seals from intake manifold to the air filter all new injectors .. hands are up but not going to let her go down
@@PIANOSTYLE100 mines 270k miles 05 .. I love .. (yes alot of work and ppl yelling my just go buy new .. nah I can't give her up .. even with her Mis#5
I say broken exhaust spring, it sounded like it was alternating/cycling while running. the broken spring is riding up itself and dropping back off the other piece, probably broken near the spring base =p
@@dcomputers the vacuum being constant makes me believe the valve springs are ok. It sounds like the lifters are tapping or not priming properly. Based on that alone I would assume the bottom end is ok. The valves are sealing. I would want to run a test to see if all of the cylinders seem to be doing what it's supposed to. I would want to know if its running lean/rich/ or ok. Possible sticking injector? Hahaha so I actually watched the video and yea..... I'm sticking with a jacked up lifter
@@dcomputers Not necessarily, I had cracked valve spring on 2 GR Toyota engine and the problem was intermittent. I do agree that in this case a lifter is probably the suspect. Great work by Paul as usual.
At 3:37 Cylinder drop test. I had just replaced my coil with an aftermarket and the car was running no different than the old original coil. I did the cylinder drop test with a test light and after I did, the car was hard to start, but it did run once it started. Apparently I had damaged the new coil, so I put the original back in and it starts easily again. So beware, in my case this test damaged the coil.
Nice job. Trying to catch that with a compression gauge isn't easy. I've been trying to get the guys I work with to do relative compression test because it is so quick and easy to do.
Auto Ditex has a unit that can do relative compression from the battery . Unsynched takes about a 10 second crank . Or you can connect an extra cable and synch the pattern . It's about $ 300.00 . Diagnose Dan has used it . No lab scope needed . They also have a lab scope and other test equipment .
Always gain something from your channel, thanks for sharing your knowledge. If you ever get the opportunity, I'd love to see your take on ECU tuning. Especially for a forced induction engine.
Haven't been able to watch much since Hurricane María sent us back to the stone age, but now that I could watch this I have to thank youfor all your work. Shalom brother.
ScannerDanner We're ok thanks to The Almighty. We have no power and water comes and goes, I've been able to work on a local auto repair shop and we're slowly coming back on our feet.
ScannerDanner We're ok thanks to The Almighty. We have no power and water comes and goes, I've been able to work on a local auto repair shop and we're slowly coming back on our feet.
ScannerDanner I have 13, and I'm from Puerto Rico, spanish is my first language. I have a TPS code video that I did with techniques I learned from you. Thanks for everything Paul. btw, I sent you a Google Hangouts invitation, check it out!
Frommy experience it possibly has a cracked spring, common in my area. They break and allow a random recurring misfire on single cylinder. IF repaired repalce all vs seals and springs. BUT car is beat, the estimated price of top end pull apart ie vc/intake/etc tell them to take repair costs and old car and trade on different car AFTER having car given an extended vehicle inspection with test drive.
my same thoughts ,for next test,spark plug out ,number 3 on tdc,fill it up with air ,see were it goes,or stays sealed ,maybe chuck another engine in it ,then have lot spares
I went through all the checks on a Jaguar x type. Had a misfire on 3. #, is on the firewall side and underneath the intake manifold. No way to access the coil or injectors without removal of the intake. Fuel checked out, Fuel trims out of whack, no vacuum leaks. I broke down took the intake off and removed #3 coil....as I removed it, I noticed a drop of water...I looked in to the tube and saw that the SP tube was 1/2 filled with water! took the rest of the coils off in that bank and the same thing! Not sure where the water came from, but I'd changed the intake Man gaskets a couple of weeks before and cleaned the area with degreaser, and rinsed. I thought I had thoroughly covered EVERYTHING with plastic. Car ran well for about two weeks, then the misfire. I bet it was running on 3 cylinders! Anyway, I dried everything and engine is running like a top. However, I'm still leery and wondering if there is a water passage on the head that is seeping. The "water" was not antifreeze as far as I could tell. I'm hoping that maybe it's water leaking down from the windshield washer nozzles or that maybe I didn't cover the engine as well as I thought I had and it took a while for the water to interfere with the plugs.
Soooo, the number 3 was losing compression intermittently but (face) with a regular frequency? Which would indicate that the hydraulic lifter is collapsing? I don't get it Big Dan.
I just realise today that Ericthecarguy signed off about 3 months ago from uploading videos. I don't want the same thing happen to you my friend. Stop working too hard brother otherwise you will disappear too. I really want to share your videos with my friends and families but I am scared if they get better than me in this field. You are really an intelligent man and I love your work. I hope you don't be a stranger to us.
Thank you for the concern. I'm certainly trying to find balance and it is difficult for sure. I can certainly relate to Eric and what he is dealing with.
Hi Danner , please explain the tools you used and what they do , how you use them ? You were so quick in using your tools without any prior explanations ... Thanks ..
Variable input: What symptoms would lead you to look at cylinder rings and/or cylinder walls regarding misfire on one cylinder? Ruling out plugs, wires, injectors, and coils.
Just bought 2007 dodge caravan sxt 3.3v6, seller said runs great, thing has been misfiring since i bought it month and half ago, shakes runs rough, gets a little better when warmed up, sounds like noisy lifter possibly clacking once warmed up only 102k on that one im driving now, gotta get it looked at runs like crap, shocks were bad replaced, struts are on the way out. I did all the plugs wires coil pack, changed power steering resevoir and fluid, changed air filter, cleaned mass air flow censor in air intake to throttle body with mass air flow sensor cleaner, removed throttle body and cleaned it and cleaned the idle air control valve of carbon wasn't to bad. No help van still runs like crap idles rough, the whole engine shakes when driving, no codes. engine is visibly shaking some when just idling from cold start up to, seems idle better parked after warmed up but then it has that fairly audible clacking sound like lifter or something. I could do pcv valve and egr valve..and other stuff like thorttle position sensor, map sensor but really i think its probably in the engine the prob, I hope not. FIrst guys i brought it to muffler shop said it runs fine, so um they were way wrong of course so i gotta bring it somewhere else where they going run real tests on it like this guy. I did notice when i changed the plugs that cylinder 6 on right front part looked dark like had oil or carbon build up on it for first half inch of the spark plug the other 5 cylinder spark plugs looked clean. Also the air conditioning condenser thingy when air conditioning on sometimes the whole muffler system shakes guess that could be on way out, overall i'd say most other things on the van are in good condition.
Fascinating video, man. Thanks for putting it together! With intermittent compression loss due to a faulty lifter or rocket, could you also see that “trigger”, if you will, at higher RPMs, say around 3500, as opposed to at idle?
Then when you find out more stuff is about to go out that will affect the first problem and you tell them...they always say " well you said this not that so now you want more"
I agree such fun work to do and potential to make money ruined by cheap ass hood customers who cry when you mention diag fees and always say “can you just take a look at it?”. Fuck them
@@ufarkingicehole if it’s not part A then your diag wasn’t correct, how’s that the customers fault? If you said you fixed the problem, yet it continues, then you replaced a part that didn’t need it. This is why we have expensive lab scopes and shit, you don’t throw parts at a car and expect a fix, you find the problem and figure out the solution.
Scanner danner; what about the possibility of a sticky valve on the exhaust side. Noticed that the engine vac wasn't bouncing. Vac test wont show exhaust side issues,correct?
Great video man. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I wish if i could use my pico as good as you as im currently trying to find an intermittent missfire on an almost new engine
Everybody has their own favorite engine cleaning/flushing concoction, and this van would be a prime candidate for it! That intermittent compression issue is just screaming "sticky lifter" to me, and I'm all too familiar with the need to "keep it running" that commonly comes with vehicles in this condition. Idle it for half an hour with a quart of Dex III ATF (or other personal favorite), throw some fresh oil into it with a bit of [personal favorite], and ship that baby!
Some great comments but I think a lot of you missed where he said it runs fine on test drive. That points to lifter, not valve spring. Though I have seen a burnt valve produce similar compression results. Keeping in mind that the valve rotates in the seat as it opens and closes, and can produce intermittent bad compression.
@@RzVids In the most fundamental sense, friction. Imperfect surfaces coming into contact with one another repeatedly at high speed. Some engines are even designed to increase the rotation of the valve during its travel.
Hey Paul, thank you for an another excellent learning video showing your technique of performing an on the spot diagnosis of an engine misfire through the process of elimination. While others may overlook, I also appreciate you taking the time to discuss the economics of maintaining an obviously beat up vehicle with a high mileage on its rap sheet vs looking at other viable options. This is huge. You just don't run a vehicle and expect it to work for you without giving the needed TLC. Wear and tear caught up with it and just feel sorry for the owner who probably was thinking that you could reverse it. Albeit, well done, my man.
Paul looking at this again My 2001 had the codes Replaced The Plugs wires coil block Some injectors O2 ,Mass air flow and Map gaskets are all done And what fixed the miss was new Fuel Pump But now it runs good until it warms up And runs Lean or like hot with no overheat and temp gauge says normal . Its got brand new Radiator And the Harness was Torn open and repaired for bad insulation against Heat issue behind Coil . I wonder if the 02 sensor was intermittent and the after Market i put in sucks as well Or the Exhaust sucks somehow Hesitant to pay to have exhaust Scoped after No Heat from Temp gun Test . Im a Face But But Face for buying this From a Single owner old lady .
So, I wonder if the timing chain is worn enough to alter overall value timing (seems that rattle could be the timing chain) and a lobe or two on the camshaft (or like you suspect, a lifter) may be worn adding to the problem. But as far as engine rattle noises go, the rattle could also be the alternator coupler.
05 dodge grand caravan sxt 3.8L 270k miles I just replaced all new seals ,injectors ,spark plugs, .. put all back to gather now misfire#5 .. (going to the shop).. but hey at least it don't leak and gas in oil not mixing .. always got to stay positive..
Hello damner i have ford f 150 96 4.9 i been change the distribuitor all assenbly the crank sensor,coil,ecm.but stil i dont have positive in the inyectors and no pulse can you help with any tip
No power to the injectors? Focus on the EEC Power Relay. It is ignition switch powered on the relay coil side and the load side feeds power to the injectors amount many other components
Valves rotate as the open/close. I would definitely check the exhaust/intake. There could be a seating issue that comes about as the valve rotates. Of course, could be a lifter or something else. Could be a valve sealing issue though.
NothingSpecial if it was a valve sealing issue u would think u would se it every time not just intermittently. I could be wrong but it just seems logical to me.
My thoughts too Dylan but others are saying the same thing, some from carbon deposits. I would say if that was the case, it would have been an exhaust valve not an intake valve, since vacuum was good and steady on the gauge.
Picoscope should hire this guy to run a lab class for them. I have this similar issue with a 5.7L tundra. Compression jumps around and vacuum steady although I did notice very small needle vibrations once in awhile. Wet and dry compression tests very inconsistent but I don’t think rings will cause that, I’m leaning toward valve issues of some kind. There is no noise like this one where it sounds like a lifter is being beat to death. And same issue across all cylinders.
Why the heck does my 2.2 ecotec run beautifully for about 10 miles then mifires on 1,2 and 4 cylinders at idle. Should I get a used engine replacment? 😡
@ScannerDanner Thank you so much for your reply. This engine had a timing chain guide failure. I tried to clean it and put it back on the road for my sister, but after doing everything I could, it just would idle. I did the compression test, but the engine wasn't hot. Your advice makes sense. I bought a $400 salvage engine with nice cross etching and clean insides. Im changing out all the new components yesterday and today, and im going to give it a wherl. I have a feeling this is going to do the trick. Then again, I've told my sister this before. 😊
2:11 - I thought coolant, engine, and transmission leaks were just a standard feature on Mopar vehicles. Lol. *Just a joke, Mopar fans!* Nice video, thanks for the helpful information.
I have a 2011 Mazdaspeed3 with 123,000 miles on it. I get a code throwing P0300 (multiple random cylinder misfire.) I’m about to throw new sparks in and I have a compression tester, I just don’t know where to start. It seems to make this low “popping” noise at idle every here and there, but nothing else after idle. Please help! I’ve looked all over mazdaspeed forums and all other people have said is the injector, sparks, or coil packs. Thank you a ton!
Not that it could be related to this case. Had a 2005 Chevy w/ 3800 v6. Misfire only at idle. Checked fuel/spark and that was fine. Checked compression on all cylinders and got the same numbers within 10%. Stumped, I had to go into the engine. One of the cam lobes was slightly worn causing a misfire only at idle. Car ran perfectly over like 1200rpms.
Same thing happens on other models. Dodge, ford, imports. And AFM/direct injection is making ICEs that much crappier. Gotta thank big governments fuel economy rules on that nonsense.
m ph m ph thanks for your comment. I have an 09 2500 gmc sierra 6.0 motor with the p0306 code it has 137K miles. Changed coil and spark plug with no help. Took it to dealer they did compression test and found out cylinder 6 had low compression, they opened engine and said found a roughness on cam lobe on cylinder 6. In your case you mentioned it was slightly lower, so did you continue to drive it like that with no further issues? The reason I ask is because I don't know whether to replace engine or/ camshaft lifters or just drive it a few more. Truck runs fine other than a slight fluctuation at idle at the rpm guague but no stalling or roughness in startup. It doesn't make tick noise from lifters just a 'growl humm howl'- like noise when accelerating and decelerating. Thanks
In the past have found as the valve is turning a warped valve face will intermittently not seal properly. its usually thinner on one side on the exhaust valve side. I made this repair back in 2009 with a year model 1999 town and country /200,00 and its still running good today. My point to new technicians, be confident in your diagnosis and don't be afraid to repair instead of replace.
I'm having the Samuel issue I have a 2002 Ford Taurus and I'm doing the same codes it idles rough to where it's wanting to die and now I'm having an issue with my turn my AC on the compressor clicks on and off constantly and it really makes it want to stall and the AC goes from coal to warm I just put free on in it and didn't help any it's actually worse they already put a brand new ignition coil in it I put new spark plugs and wires and I don't understand and I need help please
I cant say how many cars ive had that caused an intermittent missfire even after i did everything to them. sometimes i would hear a slight tic noise, happened on my chevy tahoe with a sbc, 1 other wierd thing i noticed was if you slightly touched the throttle and held it, the rpm needle would stop and go stop and go through the sweep, replacing the lifters solved it, now my best educated theory on why a lifter would do this is accessively worn lifter tolerances, becoming even worse as rpms increase the lifter will collapse more and reduce camshaft duration as well as lift, and late valve timing events, theres just no way you could ever catch that on a compression tester snce it reades the maximum compression that cylinder produced, and not individual compression cycles produced.
Thx for all the people you help. I have a 1990 e150 that has a hard miss with occasional shuddering. I have replaced all ignition components, same problem. Do you think it could be a bad ecm with leaking capacitors.?
I don’t have a hi amp clamp for my scope yet. Is there a way to use a low amp at 60a until I am able to get a hi amp? My gut says no, but I believe I saw you do it.
absolutely, it will measure up to 250 amps. you just need to do your math and make sure the jaws of the clamp fully close on the heavy cable you attach it to.
Hello . I apologize in advance for the English from google translate. I have a constant error P0305 misfire .... I have new spark plugs cables and coil plus 2 more working but I still have P0305 check engine . I tried swapping the spark plugs and the injectors, but still the same... the spark plugs throw a spark, the injectors show values of around 3ms at idle and now, according to diagnostics, it omits important information only at idle, but when I increase the revolutions or drive, the engine runs on 6 cylinders. It runs on 6 cylinders even after disconnecting the battery, even if I increase the revolutions, leave the idle, still on 6. But when I start driving after about 5 miles, when I take my foot off the gas, the error p0305 pops up again..... plain and simple if error p0305 is registered so when idling at an intersection or driving in D without gas from a hill commuting to an intersection I have a 5 cylinder, but when I drive with my foot on the gas I have a standard 6 cylinder... and when I disconnect the battery again I have a 6 cylinder again until I don't drive again for about 5 miles and take my foot off the gas and the p0305 pops up again and when I start I hear the pump longer but it starts on turning
I never had this problem on my first dodge caravan and it has 350,000 miles on it and I've owned it since 174,000 miles and it still runs. my second dodge caravan on which I am dealing with p0305 has only 203,000 miles and it is quite annoying. Yes, I could throw him off a cliff, but I won't give up
Good thing you qualified that POC comment. I drive a an 02 T&C Butt let's face it, it's another good won professor. Soooo .... Thumbs up. Tell the guy to do oil changes more often than 20 30 thousand mile intervals. Oh and nice partial view of God's country in the background at the end of the vid.
very like what I had with a GM with a broken valve spring. depending how it was it would open valve OK or not. at higher rpm the lifter would pump up and compensate. at lower rpm the lifter would not pump up enough to compensate.
ScannerDanner it's the spring combined with the way hydraulic lifters work. Solid lifters and mis fire there all the time. Big fan of your videos and teaching mate.
Scanner Danner to the rescue! I need a fancy scantool like you have. Mine doesn't tell me much of anything to useful. I'll have to pull the spark plugs and get my gauge on there. :-/ Having a similar problem on my 4.6 ford 2v. Really hoping a valve just needs adjusted at this point.
I drive a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 V6 154,000 miles. Check engine light has been on for about a month. Code is p0303. I have replaced the spark plugs/cables and fuel injector. Still code p0303. It starts right up and runs fine until it gets to around 60 mph and then I get vibration from the engine. No other symptoms other than getting crappy gas mileage. Any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated. I've been doing the work myself in my spare time and I don't have much $ to spend..if I did I wouldn't drive a 2006 minivan.
i totally understand the conclusion a hydraulic lifter would be the only component in a valve train that could fluctuate but how you got to that conclusion is way above my tiny brain, inverting 6 to diagnose 3 or whatever you said, for me it's simple, it's a Chrysler, lift up the radiator cap and roll a new car under it....
Mr. O! I was told I should have given this van to you since you like them so much? Haha, don't know the background there but I'm sure it's good. Hope everything is well with you and you family. Thanks for dropping by.
Oh it is just because I work on so many soccer mom vans I get called the "Dodge Caravan Channel." Looked to be a classic broken exhaust valve spring. Been cool to see it through but if they are a toilet why go any further.
would a lose rocker cause a miss fire and low compression has 215psi on on them except number 6 has 100psi and can here ticking thew exzost its on a 2005 envoy with 4,2l
If I have no 5 volt reference from the pcm to the egr will it throw a lean code and misfire code? In a GM 3400 pos. I tested the egr and it was opening and closing when powered from the battery but I got nothing from the harness for voltage. I have a vacuum leak too I found but I sealed it and nothing changed so I’m leaning towards the egr issue but it’s not throwing an egr or evaporate code. Ecm screwed maybe?
Hi sir.can you tell me if I can learn basic car electricity and computer management of the car. Because I didn't get any benefit from watching these videos and terms on it.but I have great sense that you are professional. Please help
You can join my on-line classes here. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Start with my basic electrical class. www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/basic-electrical-concepts.html There is a 14 day free trial so you will have plenty of time to decide if you want to join or not. Thank you!
i had a caravan do the same exact same thing , putting oil in low cylinder brought compression back up, turn out injector was washing oil off cylinder walls, new injector repaired problem
I have a 3.8 engine as well I'm having a misfire on cylinder number 5 I replaced the whole head the whole top of the engine on that side is all brand new still have misfire any suggestions?
changed number 1 plug, coil and new air intake sensor 2014 Town and Country. finally, engine started smooth yet little peck. Took off and about 15 seconds of driving back to jerking. Help.
I didn't particularly care to go any deeper on this clear mechanical problem on this day. But I definitely have other videos where I deep dive into this type of thing. Check out my Hunmer series. It's like 6 parts
I'm using starter current to gauge the compression pressures and I am using the ignition pulse to sync the waveform so I can determine which cylinder is which. I have other videos on this too search "relative compression" on my channel page
@@ScannerDanner Pretty smart! I have a negative fuel trim, under powered, poor fuel economy, and smells like its burning rich. Any ideas? Thinking leaky injectors.
@@jeffren70 how negative are they? Under powered could be from a plugged cat because it's running so rich and you melted it down. What are the O2 sensors doing? Most importantly what are you working on? Year, make, model, engine?
I have a problem with my ford f150 I can't figure out why I have missed fire on number 1 new plug coil change did compression test it ok have lot of of power the motor new
I've had the paid channel for almost 2 years. Even having experience I find the channel exceptional for training. Let's say, top 3 best on You Tube IMHO. It has something for everyone for sure.
Joe Mikos how much is it?
Hi I'm not a technician but I am interested to learn these electrical engineering.if I resisted in played channel,did you think I'll learn.
It's $11 a month and I offer a 14 day free trial. Thanks for your interest!
I need a guy like you to help me find my problem , got a bad first /cold start issue with a 1.6 8v SR 102 hp vw engine . Starts right up but then idles poorly in 3 cylinders and then drops rpm and dies . after driving it for 5 minutes when car gets warmer it starts right up no issues any more . it has got power and pulls ok but sometimes around 2000rpm it shakes a bit . Help?
If Scannerdanner is among the top three here on RUclips, I'd be curious to learn about the other two channels behind him! Lol
I love advanced diagnostics , this guy is a diagnostics master in automotive.
He gets to the root issues quickly, teaches his tricks all without editing, he's the real deal!
Gonna sub, not only for the great info, but I see you are still replying to comments today on a 5 year old video. Very rare and commendable. Much respect. Thanks.
Wow thank you! If that's not motivation to keep answering questions, I don't know what is.
Straight to the points. All of them. Acknowledged mistake in assumption and explained it all clearly. Thanks, Dan!
I like watching you do things hands on which puts things in perspective for those of us who lack experience with troubleshooting in certain areas. +1
Or those of us that lack these fancy tools lol
The best I’ve ever seen do it so far
I have the same problem cylinder 4 .sometimes it runs good sometimes it runs bad.but always cyl 4 .the car had a ticking noise after the head gaskets were replaced .so I replaced both rocker arms and lifters .i don’t know that it had a code p0304 before I replaced the rockers because like I said it had a blown head gasket .the machine shop said the heads and valves were ok .when they resurfaced the heads .so now I’m stuck with the cyl 4 misfire .compression test showed bad compression .bit some times it runs great .you nailed it for me .its a bad lifter ona new rocker assembly but more than likely a piece of some thing is blocking the oiling orifice for that lifter. Thanks a million your thorough diagnosis lead me to the only problem it could be .bad lifter or more likely a piece of silicone blocking the lifter orifice intermittently.now I can fix the car for zero dollars .
My daughters 2002 mazda626 has a cylinder 3 misfire, changed the spark plug, coil and wires with no change with rough idle I’m at my wits end. Your video has given me other possibilities to explore. Thank you for your video.
Take to someone who knows how to properly diagnose instead of throwing parts at it. You will save money in the end.
Happy to see that Pico scope out. Great Job Paul it's always a pleasure to watch you work.
Can't get much more professional than that, Thank you very much.
Valve spring?
I had a 94 Chrysler Laser years ago with intermittent low compression on one cylinder similar to this case. It turned out to be a bad valve guide. Using a compression gauge it would read bad one time and OK the next. It also fouled the plug with the bad valve. It was bad from new. The dealer knurled the guides and it worked for 6 months or so, long enough to get out of warranty. I ended up replacing the cylinder head after which it ran far better than when new. Oil in the cylinder made it want to pre-ignite. The knock sensor backed off the timing and it was a stone. After the fix I could lay rubber with it.
Thanks Paul,
The real time out in the field diagnostics like this drive the learning from the Premium Channel home.
Take care
Bill
Thank you Bill!
I had almost the same problem on a 2000 dodge G/C the only difference was the misfire was sporadic but we couldn't recreate the misfire over several months and 2 trips into the shop. 3rd time being the charm my customer brought it in when it was actually misfiring. For the misfire to surface they had to be on there way home from work with lots of stop and go traffic and the temperature was above 85 degrees and still intermittent. After checking spark and fuel that were good, it had low compression on cylinder 3 with a leak down test proving it to be a bad exhaust valve. After removing the heads we could see the issue which was a hairline crack in cylinder 3 exhaust valve. After watching this I started to think what the vacuum gauge would show while doing a cylinder balance test. Next time I get a misfire like this I'm going to have to look at this just to see if there's anything of value in it. Thank you for the great videos you always have great content.
I just changed the heads on the 2000 Ranger 3.0 with 188,000 miles. They had known exhaust valve issues over time. Turns out I had cylinders 4 and 6 getting coolant in the chamber which was cracking spark plugs and then once I had the old heads on the bench, 5 out of 6 had brake parts cleaner leak past the exhaust valve seats. Now with new heads with hardened seats, all new head, intake and valve cover gaskets, I am battling high LTFT's. Got new O2 sensors on the way since mine have about 60,000 miles on them with raw fuel from misfires for who knows how long. Good news is that there is no sludge in the motor and the cylinder walls still have the cross hatch on them.
Excellent video. Although I don’t understand the scope diagnosis completely it certainly opened my eyes to deeper diagnostic techniques.
You’re a beast. Definitely completely thorough.
They got me really like looking for sounds now 😁... It's very amazing what a vehicle can say just by that sense.
Stumbled on the channel today and it's awesome. Wife's 2008 caravan 3.3 has a intermittent cylinder 1 misfire. I did plugs and coil and it ran good for a day now the light is back on. I'm guessing I'm dealing with a lifter problem.
Thing has 109000 and is a decent ride. When you first start it she idles a little rough but smooths out after a bit.
Is that what it was my car is doing the same plugs and coils don’t last
I see why it's pointless to further check for anything else than physically checking the valve train, thanks I learned a lot today.
Lifter problem wouldn’t be intermittent like that though. Intermittent sticking valve is my guess. Caused by binding valve guide, or weak valve spring.
Good job sharpening production skills Paul.. your channel is just getting better
I had a dodge minivan with a 3.8 many years ago with a very intermittent misfire on cyl. 3 that it took months before they could get to the shop with it still miss firing. It turned out to be a cracked exhaust valve on cyl 3.
Rear valve cover isn't that bad on that van. I did stem seals on one at 485,000 miles. Last I heard it was still running just fine North of 500,000. Commercial van with lots of miles and few cold start heat cycles as well as being in an arid environment and having a dedicated mechanic helped it reach a round trip to the moon and back.
Great new tools for the toolbox on my shoulders. Thanks Paul.
Dont skip anything please i wanted to see how you connected that vaccuum gauge. Edit: I'm a fairly new mechanic with 3 years experience and these videos have helped me advance in my career. I look like the smart guy at work thanks to your videos.
Join my classes I offer on my website. They will elevate you even more my friend. Thanks! Hope to see you there!
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
@@ScannerDanner I checked it out and I'm actually going to give it a go I have your book already.
@505fastlife6 awesome! It really makes the book come to life. Looking forward to your questions and comments on the classes and case studies.
it's a dodge caravan, it was beat when it left the dealer lot :))
My 2000 Grand Caravan gave me 343000 km (215,000 miles) before packing it in. 3.8 L engine. There is no substitute for timely maintenance.
Yes very true 1 have 2003 with 365.000 miles original engine and transmission i bought new. Still runs but body rot is bad.
@@angelozararis7404 I have 270 k on my 1999 Chrysler Town and Country. Also have done various repairs on it. The have amazing pickup on them.
Mine has a misfire .. going to the shop.. just replaced all seals from intake manifold to the air filter all new injectors .. hands are up but not going to let her go down
@@PIANOSTYLE100 mines 270k miles 05 .. I love .. (yes alot of work and ppl yelling my just go buy new .. nah I can't give her up .. even with her Mis#5
@@83mike860 I made that comment awhile back.. Now..I fix things on my 99 Ford Expedition. Not a mechanic.. It had a parasitic drain on the battery.
I say broken exhaust spring, it sounded like it was alternating/cycling while running. the broken spring is riding up itself and dropping back off the other piece, probably broken near the spring base =p
What about the perfect vacuum.?
@@ufarkingicehole its intermittent wouldnt the valve spring be consistent. lifter seems more like it. maybe slow to pump up
@@dcomputers the vacuum being constant makes me believe the valve springs are ok. It sounds like the lifters are tapping or not priming properly. Based on that alone I would assume the bottom end is ok. The valves are sealing. I would want to run a test to see if all of the cylinders seem to be doing what it's supposed to. I would want to know if its running lean/rich/ or ok. Possible sticking injector?
Hahaha so I actually watched the video and yea..... I'm sticking with a jacked up lifter
@@dcomputers Not necessarily, I had cracked valve spring on 2 GR Toyota engine and the problem was intermittent.
I do agree that in this case a lifter is probably the suspect.
Great work by Paul as usual.
When you present on video I feel like you are talking directly to me very effectively. Thank you for All your videos S/D!
Paul, please consider a video outlining requisite diagnostic instruments for HOME mechanic, including affordable scan tools. Thx
At 3:37 Cylinder drop test. I had just replaced my coil with an aftermarket and the car was running no different than the old original coil. I did the cylinder drop test with a test light and after I did, the car was hard to start, but it did run once it started. Apparently I had damaged the new coil, so I put the original back in and it starts easily again. So beware, in my case this test damaged the coil.
Send it to Eric, he loves those vans
HAHAHA! He sure gets alot of those!
Make my living on Chrysler's haha
not what i wanted to hear i just bought one haha
i love your channel to SMAR
too
Nice job. Trying to catch that with a compression gauge isn't easy. I've been trying to get the guys I work with to do relative compression test because it is so quick and easy to do.
Auto Ditex has a unit that can do relative compression from the battery . Unsynched takes about a 10 second crank . Or you can connect an extra cable and synch the pattern . It's about $ 300.00 . Diagnose Dan has used it . No lab scope needed . They also have a lab scope and other test equipment .
Scanner "no sugar coating" Dan, well done again. Nicely explained.
Wife's van with the 3.3 is at 235K and still running great. A little rusty around the edges.
Always gain something from your channel, thanks for sharing your knowledge. If you ever get the opportunity, I'd love to see your take on ECU tuning. Especially for a forced induction engine.
I had a few of these Vans and I had good luck got over two hundred thousand miles on both of them.
The crusher is the appropriate fix for that vehicle....
the day it left the new car lot, or the factory assembly line :))
It will be shipped to some 3rd world country, and be driven around there, for a few more decades ;)
3rd world taxi or delivery van.
Haven't been able to watch much since Hurricane María sent us back to the stone age, but now that I could watch this I have to thank youfor all your work. Shalom brother.
Shalom my friend. Are you okay now? Do you need anything?
ScannerDanner We're ok thanks to The Almighty. We have no power and water comes and goes, I've been able to work on a local auto repair shop and we're slowly coming back on our feet.
ScannerDanner We're ok thanks to The Almighty. We have no power and water comes and goes, I've been able to work on a local auto repair shop and we're slowly coming back on our feet.
I didn't know you were doing videos now! And I didn't know you spoke Spanish. How many repair videos do you have up?
ScannerDanner I have 13, and I'm from Puerto Rico, spanish is my first language. I have a TPS code video that I did with techniques I learned from you. Thanks for everything Paul. btw, I sent you a Google Hangouts invitation, check it out!
Always start at square one even if it had new parts and never assume the new parts are good. Found a bad brand new spark plug more than once.
Frommy experience it possibly has a cracked spring, common in my area. They break and allow a random recurring misfire on single cylinder. IF repaired repalce all vs seals and springs. BUT car is beat, the estimated price of top end pull apart ie vc/intake/etc tell them to take repair costs and old car and trade on different car AFTER having car given an extended vehicle inspection with test drive.
I know this is an old video but I gotta ask, why not do a cylinder leakdown? If nothing else it would eliminate culprits
my same thoughts ,for next test,spark plug out ,number 3 on tdc,fill it up with air ,see were it goes,or stays sealed ,maybe chuck another engine in it ,then have lot spares
I agree. That would be my next step.
Quick, efficient and effective. Time to move on. Great vid Paul.
I went through all the checks on a Jaguar x type. Had a misfire on 3. #, is on the firewall side and underneath the intake manifold. No way to access the coil or injectors without removal of the intake. Fuel checked out, Fuel trims out of whack, no vacuum leaks. I broke down took the intake off and removed #3 coil....as I removed it, I noticed a drop of water...I looked in to the tube and saw that the SP tube was 1/2 filled with water! took the rest of the coils off in that bank and the same thing!
Not sure where the water came from, but I'd changed the intake Man gaskets a couple of weeks before and cleaned the area with degreaser, and rinsed. I thought I had thoroughly covered EVERYTHING with plastic. Car ran well for about two weeks, then the misfire. I bet it was running on 3 cylinders! Anyway, I dried everything and engine is running like a top.
However, I'm still leery and wondering if there is a water passage on the head that is seeping. The "water" was not antifreeze as far as I could tell. I'm hoping that maybe it's water leaking down from the windshield washer nozzles or that maybe I didn't cover the engine as well as I thought I had and it took a while for the water to interfere with the plugs.
Soooo, the number 3 was losing compression intermittently but (face) with a regular frequency? Which would indicate that the hydraulic lifter is collapsing? I don't get it Big Dan.
I just realise today that Ericthecarguy signed off about 3 months ago from uploading videos. I don't want the same thing happen to you my friend. Stop working too hard brother otherwise you will disappear too.
I really want to share your videos with my friends and families but I am scared if they get better than me in this field.
You are really an intelligent man and I love your work. I hope you don't be a stranger to us.
Thank you for the concern. I'm certainly trying to find balance and it is difficult for sure. I can certainly relate to Eric and what he is dealing with.
Hi Danner , please explain the tools you used and what they do , how you use them ?
You were so quick in using your tools without any prior explanations ... Thanks ..
please watch the related videos listed in the description of this video. It will help you a lot. Thanks!
@anonymous get his premium channel and watch all his videos. You will learn a lot.
Dude this save me wasting money on ignition coils and fuel injectors on my z3... thank you so much. I do engine work in the Pittsburg, Ca bay area.
I am in Pittsburgh, PA :-)
Variable input: What symptoms would lead you to look at cylinder rings and/or cylinder walls regarding misfire on one cylinder? Ruling out plugs, wires, injectors, and coils.
Just bought 2007 dodge caravan sxt 3.3v6, seller said runs great, thing has been misfiring since i bought it month and half ago, shakes runs rough, gets a little better when warmed up, sounds like noisy lifter possibly clacking once warmed up only 102k on that one im driving now, gotta get it looked at runs like crap, shocks were bad replaced, struts are on the way out. I did all the plugs wires coil pack, changed power steering resevoir and fluid, changed air filter, cleaned mass air flow censor in air intake to throttle body with mass air flow sensor cleaner, removed throttle body and cleaned it and cleaned the idle air control valve of carbon wasn't to bad. No help van still runs like crap idles rough, the whole engine shakes when driving, no codes. engine is visibly shaking some when just idling from cold start up to, seems idle better parked after warmed up but then it has that fairly audible clacking sound like lifter or something. I could do pcv valve and egr valve..and other stuff like thorttle position sensor, map sensor but really i think its probably in the engine the prob, I hope not. FIrst guys i brought it to muffler shop said it runs fine, so um they were way wrong of course so i gotta bring it somewhere else where they going run real tests on it like this guy. I did notice when i changed the plugs that cylinder 6 on right front part looked dark like had oil or carbon build up on it for first half inch of the spark plug the other 5 cylinder spark plugs looked clean. Also the air conditioning condenser thingy when air conditioning on sometimes the whole muffler system shakes guess that could be on way out, overall i'd say most other things on the van are in good condition.
You have a unique ability. Thankyou so much for all the help
Fascinating video, man. Thanks for putting it together! With intermittent compression loss due to a faulty lifter or rocket, could you also see that “trigger”, if you will, at higher RPMs, say around 3500, as opposed to at idle?
I run from people who drive a car for 150K miles with no maintenance and then want you to tell them what's wrong for free and fix it for $100 bucks.😕
Then when you find out more stuff is about to go out that will affect the first problem and you tell them...they always say " well you said this not that so now you want more"
"I thought you said it was part A. Now its B and C too? Well then" or " parts B and C were fine when i got here. You will fix B and C for free!"
sounds correct
I agree such fun work to do and potential to make money ruined by cheap ass hood customers who cry when you mention diag fees and always say “can you just take a look at it?”. Fuck them
@@ufarkingicehole if it’s not part A then your diag wasn’t correct, how’s that the customers fault? If you said you fixed the problem, yet it continues, then you replaced a part that didn’t need it. This is why we have expensive lab scopes and shit, you don’t throw parts at a car and expect a fix, you find the problem and figure out the solution.
Scanner danner; what about the possibility of a sticky valve on the exhaust side. Noticed that the engine vac wasn't bouncing. Vac test wont show exhaust side issues,correct?
I dont completely understand why the exhaust side wouldnt have an effect on vacuum?
Valve spring broke have seen this before intermittent missfire
Great video man. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I wish if i could use my pico as good as you as im currently trying to find an intermittent missfire on an almost new engine
Everybody has their own favorite engine cleaning/flushing concoction, and this van would be a prime candidate for it! That intermittent compression issue is just screaming "sticky lifter" to me, and I'm all too familiar with the need to "keep it running" that commonly comes with vehicles in this condition.
Idle it for half an hour with a quart of Dex III ATF (or other personal favorite), throw some fresh oil into it with a bit of [personal favorite], and ship that baby!
Some great comments but I think a lot of you missed where he said it runs fine on test drive. That points to lifter, not valve spring.
Though I have seen a burnt valve produce similar compression results. Keeping in mind that the valve rotates in the seat as it opens and closes, and can produce intermittent bad compression.
How exactly?
@@RzVids In the most fundamental sense, friction. Imperfect surfaces coming into contact with one another repeatedly at high speed.
Some engines are even designed to increase the rotation of the valve during its travel.
Hey Paul, thank you for an another excellent learning video showing your technique of performing an on the spot diagnosis of an engine misfire through the process of elimination. While others may overlook, I also appreciate you taking the time to discuss the economics of maintaining an obviously beat up vehicle with a high mileage on its rap sheet vs looking at other viable options. This is huge. You just don't run a vehicle and expect it to work for you without giving the needed TLC. Wear and tear caught up with it and just feel sorry for the owner who probably was thinking that you could reverse it. Albeit, well done, my man.
I did not get how you were able to graphic individual cylinders compresion on your scanner tool
He was measuring the current to the starter motor. Current is proportional torque for electric motors. Torque increases during the compression stroke.
Paul looking at this again
My 2001 had the codes
Replaced The Plugs wires coil block
Some injectors
O2 ,Mass air flow and Map gaskets are all done
And what fixed the miss was new Fuel Pump
But now it runs good until it warms up
And runs Lean or like hot with no overheat and temp gauge says normal .
Its got brand new Radiator
And the Harness was Torn open and repaired for bad insulation against Heat issue behind Coil .
I wonder if the 02 sensor was intermittent and the after Market i put in sucks as well
Or the Exhaust sucks somehow
Hesitant to pay to have exhaust Scoped after No Heat from Temp gun
Test .
Im a Face But But Face for buying this
From a Single owner old lady .
So, I wonder if the timing chain is worn enough to alter overall value timing (seems that rattle could be the timing chain) and a lobe or two on the camshaft (or like you suspect, a lifter) may be worn adding to the problem. But as far as engine rattle noises go, the rattle could also be the alternator coupler.
I’m thinking that a timing chain problem would affect all the cylinders
Absolutely brilliant! Great job. Very impressive.
05 dodge grand caravan sxt 3.8L 270k miles
I just replaced all new seals ,injectors ,spark plugs, .. put all back to gather now misfire#5 .. (going to the shop).. but hey at least it don't leak and gas in oil not mixing .. always got to stay positive..
Hello damner i have ford f 150 96 4.9 i been change the distribuitor all assenbly the crank sensor,coil,ecm.but stil i dont have positive in the inyectors and no pulse can you help with any tip
No power to the injectors? Focus on the EEC Power Relay. It is ignition switch powered on the relay coil side and the load side feeds power to the injectors amount many other components
Thanks i appreciate your help
Valves rotate as the open/close. I would definitely check the exhaust/intake. There could be a seating issue that comes about as the valve rotates. Of course, could be a lifter or something else. Could be a valve sealing issue though.
NothingSpecial if it was a valve sealing issue u would think u would se it every time not just intermittently. I could be wrong but it just seems logical to me.
My thoughts too Dylan but others are saying the same thing, some from carbon deposits.
I would say if that was the case, it would have been an exhaust valve not an intake valve, since vacuum was good and steady on the gauge.
I've seen intake valves carbon up. Possibly because of valve overlap, not completely sure about that but I've definitely seen it.
I must have missed the vacuum gauge part. Most likely not a valve issue. I agree.
Picoscope should hire this guy to run a lab class for them. I have this similar issue with a 5.7L tundra. Compression jumps around and vacuum steady although I did notice very small needle vibrations once in awhile. Wet and dry compression tests very inconsistent but I don’t think rings will cause that, I’m leaning toward valve issues of some kind. There is no noise like this one where it sounds like a lifter is being beat to death. And same issue across all cylinders.
Why the heck does my 2.2 ecotec run beautifully for about 10 miles then mifires on 1,2 and 4 cylinders at idle. Should I get a used engine replacment? 😡
Do a compression test (cranking test) like I showed here with the engine hot.
@ScannerDanner Thank you so much for your reply. This engine had a timing chain guide failure. I tried to clean it and put it back on the road for my sister, but after doing everything I could, it just would idle. I did the compression test, but the engine wasn't hot. Your advice makes sense. I bought a $400 salvage engine with nice cross etching and clean insides. Im changing out all the new components yesterday and today, and im going to give it a wherl. I have a feeling this is going to do the trick. Then again, I've told my sister this before. 😊
2:11 - I thought coolant, engine, and transmission leaks were just a standard feature on Mopar vehicles. Lol. *Just a joke, Mopar fans!* Nice video, thanks for the helpful information.
Take it back or I’ll beat you about the head, face, neck and hands!
I have a 2011 Mazdaspeed3 with 123,000 miles on it. I get a code throwing P0300 (multiple random cylinder misfire.) I’m about to throw new sparks in and I have a compression tester, I just don’t know where to start. It seems to make this low “popping” noise at idle every here and there, but nothing else after idle. Please help! I’ve looked all over mazdaspeed forums and all other people have said is the injector, sparks, or coil packs. Thank you a ton!
I had to learn something before I could learn from your content. Thank you and Schrodinger!
Not that it could be related to this case. Had a 2005 Chevy w/ 3800 v6. Misfire only at idle. Checked fuel/spark and that was fine. Checked compression on all cylinders and got the same numbers within 10%. Stumped, I had to go into the engine. One of the cam lobes was slightly worn causing a misfire only at idle. Car ran perfectly over like 1200rpms.
m ph - It's a GM.
Same thing happens on other models. Dodge, ford, imports. And AFM/direct injection is making ICEs that much crappier. Gotta thank big governments fuel economy rules on that nonsense.
m ph its there butt you cant feel it because of engines inertia yet its a definite loss of HP
m ph m ph thanks for your comment. I have an 09 2500 gmc sierra 6.0 motor with the p0306 code it has 137K miles. Changed coil and spark plug with no help. Took it to dealer they did compression test and found out cylinder 6 had low compression, they opened engine and said found a roughness on cam lobe on cylinder 6.
In your case you mentioned it was slightly lower, so did you continue to drive it like that with no further issues? The reason I ask is because I don't know whether to replace engine or/ camshaft lifters or just drive it a few more. Truck runs fine other than a slight fluctuation at idle at the rpm guague but no stalling or roughness in startup. It doesn't make tick noise from lifters just a 'growl humm howl'- like noise when accelerating and decelerating. Thanks
In the past have found as the valve is turning a warped valve face will intermittently not seal properly. its usually thinner on one side on the exhaust valve side. I made this repair back in 2009 with a year model 1999 town and country /200,00 and its still running good today. My point to new technicians, be confident in your diagnosis and don't be afraid to repair instead of replace.
Like my Verus Pro...graphing shows you so much
Nice work, I'm getting low oil pressure bounces around GM 4.3 high millage think oil tube loose?
I'm having the Samuel issue I have a 2002 Ford Taurus and I'm doing the same codes it idles rough to where it's wanting to die and now I'm having an issue with my turn my AC on the compressor clicks on and off constantly and it really makes it want to stall and the AC goes from coal to warm I just put free on in it and didn't help any it's actually worse they already put a brand new ignition coil in it I put new spark plugs and wires and I don't understand and I need help please
Thank you for sharing your skills and video,you are the best diagnosis master.
I cant say how many cars ive had that caused an intermittent missfire even after i did everything to them. sometimes i would hear a slight tic noise, happened on my chevy tahoe with a sbc, 1 other wierd thing i noticed was if you slightly touched the throttle and held it, the rpm needle would stop and go stop and go through the sweep, replacing the lifters solved it, now my best educated theory on why a lifter would do this is accessively worn lifter tolerances, becoming even worse as rpms increase the lifter will collapse more and reduce camshaft duration as well as lift, and late valve timing events, theres just no way you could ever catch that on a compression tester snce it reades the maximum compression that cylinder produced, and not individual compression cycles produced.
Thx for all the people you help. I have a 1990 e150 that has a hard miss with occasional shuddering. I have replaced all ignition components, same problem. Do you think it could be a bad ecm with leaking capacitors.?
I don’t have a hi amp clamp for my scope yet. Is there a way to use a low amp at 60a until I am able to get a hi amp? My gut says no, but I believe I saw you do it.
absolutely, it will measure up to 250 amps. you just need to do your math and make sure the jaws of the clamp fully close on the heavy cable you attach it to.
Hello . I apologize in advance for the English from google translate.
I have a constant error P0305 misfire .... I have new spark plugs cables and coil plus 2 more working but I still have P0305 check engine . I tried swapping the spark plugs and the injectors, but still the same... the spark plugs throw a spark, the injectors show values of around 3ms at idle and now, according to diagnostics, it omits important information only at idle, but when I increase the revolutions or drive, the engine runs on 6 cylinders.
It runs on 6 cylinders even after disconnecting the battery, even if I increase the revolutions, leave the idle, still on 6. But when I start driving after about 5 miles, when I take my foot off the gas, the error p0305 pops up again..... plain and simple if error p0305 is registered so when idling at an intersection or driving in D without gas from a hill commuting to an intersection I have a 5 cylinder, but when I drive with my foot on the gas I have a standard 6 cylinder... and when I disconnect the battery again I have a 6 cylinder again until I don't drive again for about 5 miles and take my foot off the gas and the p0305 pops up again and when I start I hear the pump longer but it starts on turning
I never had this problem on my first dodge caravan and it has 350,000 miles on it and I've owned it since 174,000 miles and it still runs. my second dodge caravan on which I am dealing with p0305 has only 203,000 miles and it is quite annoying. Yes, I could throw him off a cliff, but I won't give up
Good thing you qualified that POC comment.
I drive a an 02 T&C
Butt let's face it, it's another good won professor. Soooo .... Thumbs up. Tell the guy to do oil changes more often than 20 30 thousand mile intervals.
Oh and nice partial view of God's country in the background at the end of the vid.
very like what I had with a GM with a broken valve spring. depending how it was it would open valve OK or not. at higher rpm the lifter would pump up and compensate. at lower rpm the lifter would not pump up enough to compensate.
Seems a broken valve spring is the most common reply
ScannerDanner it's the spring combined with the way hydraulic lifters work. Solid lifters and mis fire there all the time. Big fan of your videos and teaching mate.
Scanner Danner to the rescue! I need a fancy scantool like you have. Mine doesn't tell me much of anything to useful. I'll have to pull the spark plugs and get my gauge on there. :-/ Having a similar problem on my 4.6 ford 2v. Really hoping a valve just needs adjusted at this point.
You mentioned in your video scan tool was right can the scan tool show a misfire on the wrong cylinder?
Yes it can!
I drive a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 V6 154,000 miles. Check engine light has been on for about a month. Code is p0303. I have replaced the spark plugs/cables and fuel injector. Still code p0303. It starts right up and runs fine until it gets to around 60 mph and then I get vibration from the engine. No other symptoms other than getting crappy gas mileage. Any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated. I've been doing the work myself in my spare time and I don't have much $ to spend..if I did I wouldn't drive a 2006 minivan.
i totally understand the conclusion a hydraulic lifter would be the only component in a valve train that could fluctuate but how you got to that conclusion is way above my tiny brain, inverting 6 to diagnose 3 or whatever you said, for me it's simple, it's a Chrysler, lift up the radiator cap and roll a new car under it....
😂
Hmm, it may have started due to the insulation of that injector at that cylinder. It's always happens at cylinder that is closest to the firewall.
I have a 2000 accord and its misfiring .. Took it to the shop they say they cant find the problem
Nice find Paul. Gravy :D!
Mr. O! I was told I should have given this van to you since you like them so much? Haha, don't know the background there but I'm sure it's good. Hope everything is well with you and you family. Thanks for dropping by.
Oh it is just because I work on so many soccer mom vans I get called the "Dodge Caravan Channel." Looked to be a classic broken exhaust valve spring. Been cool to see it through but if they are a toilet why go any further.
HAHAHA! A wheeled toilet. I've owned my share of those over the years ...
Loaf ... turd ... POS .... so many names for them! :D
Exactly
Im with eric on the broken ex valve spring. Seen it many times. Same on windstars.
would a lose rocker cause a miss fire and low compression has 215psi on on them except number 6 has 100psi and can here ticking thew exzost its on a 2005 envoy with 4,2l
If I have no 5 volt reference from the pcm to the egr will it throw a lean code and misfire code? In a GM 3400 pos. I tested the egr and it was opening and closing when powered from the battery but I got nothing from the harness for voltage. I have a vacuum leak too I found but I sealed it and nothing changed so I’m leaning towards the egr issue but it’s not throwing an egr or evaporate code. Ecm screwed maybe?
Hi sir.can you tell me if I can learn basic car electricity and computer management of the car.
Because I didn't get any benefit from watching these videos and terms on it.but I have great sense that you are professional.
Please help
You can join my on-line classes here. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Start with my basic electrical class.
www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/basic-electrical-concepts.html
There is a 14 day free trial so you will have plenty of time to decide if you want to join or not. Thank you!
ScannerDanner
Thanks for reply
i had a caravan do the same exact same thing , putting oil in low cylinder brought compression back up, turn out injector was washing oil off cylinder walls, new injector repaired problem
In this case it absolutely was not a injector leaking causing cylinder wash. We had a constant misfire at idle and normal fuel trim numbers.
I have a 3.8 engine as well I'm having a misfire on cylinder number 5 I replaced the whole head the whole top of the engine on that side is all brand new still have misfire any suggestions?
I have that same problem on my 3.6l pentastar!i think you just solved my problem!i will keep you updated.Subscribed!
changed number 1 plug, coil and new air intake sensor 2014 Town and Country. finally, engine started smooth yet little peck. Took off and about 15 seconds of driving back to jerking. Help.
How about a cylinder leakdown test on Cylinder #3 to verify it not a valve leak issue.
I didn't particularly care to go any deeper on this clear mechanical problem on this day. But I definitely have other videos where I deep dive into this type of thing. Check out my Hunmer series. It's like 6 parts
How is the compression changing the pulse on the plug wire? I don't understand how you are diagnosing compression electrically.
I'm using starter current to gauge the compression pressures and I am using the ignition pulse to sync the waveform so I can determine which cylinder is which. I have other videos on this too search "relative compression" on my channel page
@@ScannerDanner Pretty smart! I have a negative fuel trim, under powered, poor fuel economy, and smells like its burning rich. Any ideas? Thinking leaky injectors.
@@jeffren70 how negative are they? Under powered could be from a plugged cat because it's running so rich and you melted it down.
What are the O2 sensors doing? Most importantly what are you working on? Year, make, model, engine?
I have a problem with my ford f150 I can't figure out why I have missed fire on number 1 new plug coil change did compression test it ok have lot of of power the motor new
Hi Paul..i donot have a pressure guage...i do have pico scope..Plzzz suggest me how can i use pico scope to test fuel pressure??? Thank you.
you still need adapters to connect to your fuel rail, so you will need some type of pressure gauge kit
I sure hope you did a Test Light test off camera because I didn't see one on camera at 3:36 lol