Interesting. I haven't tried the holes in the paper thing before, but it seems like it would affect the effective iron to board contact. Personally I have had great success using a travel type clothes iron. Here in the USA I find travel irons at thrift stores all the time. They usually have a folding handle, a slick plastic coating to slide around more easily, and they don't have steam holes. The lack of steam means you don't need to worry about contamination from the gunk that tends to build up with steam irons, and you get uniform surface contact. When looking for glossy paper to print on, avoid pages with any color from orange to red to purple (think of colors on a color wheel here). I have transferred several designs on junk paper that had colors close to red. More than half of those were junk because the way red-ish ink tends to transfer onto the copper. I wasn't able to get the red-ish ink off without damaging the transfer. After I had that problem a few different times, using paper from different sources, I just avoid anything red-ish in color. I watched another upload recently where the guy suggested using the backing paper from vinyl graphics. All sign makers and graphics shops throw away tons of the stuff and will give it away to anyone that asks. It takes a bit more planning and effort to acquire vinyl backing paper but it is on my list of things to try at some point. What was the resolution of your lettering on this board? It looked pretty solid for such fine detail. The best resolution I've been able to manage has been 0.4mm traces using toner transfer and ferric chloride. I've started playing with dry film because I want to be able to use some smaller surface mount packages like a 64pin 10x10, 0.5mm pitch LQFP. So far dry film photoresist has a lot more variables and dialing in a good technique requires a lot more trial and error. ...anyways, nice upload. I sub'd and added this to my "PCB Fabrication and Prototype DIY" playlist. -Jake to anyone else reading this and unawares, Hydrocloric Acid is available in big box home improvement stores in the US. It's called Muriatic Acid and is sold for etching/cleaning concrete. Hydrogen Peroxide 3% is sold in any pharmacy. The YT channel "Nurd Rage" has several videos about these enchants too. (My channel is not monetized nor do I plan to change that. I don't care if you or anyone else checks it out. This is not spam. I have nothing to gain. I simply like to share odds and ends occasionally, usually FOSS'y or OSHW related. My playlists on YT are a form of personal notes and references however they are publicly listed and roughly indexed alphabetically.)
Perforating the paper helps to let the air underneath escape, which is critical to the transfer; Yes, using the iron was all part of the challenge to use materials available in the house. Thanks for commenting!
quick tip; the PCB material is fiberglass, and you do not want to breathe the dust from made cutting it, as that can lead to a myriad of horrible things.
@@zjokkaNee, vergeet het maar. Bij de doe-het-zelf is er alleen maar acetone vervanger te koop in een literfles. Dat wordt dus weer online bestellen alsof de fysieke wereld niet meer bestaat.
Thanks so much. Yes this is the result of many experiments refining a almost costless method of producing pcbs. How long should you iron? How long should I etch it? are questions that cannot be answered - but every time you do it you'll get better at estimating the times.
after removing the paper, you could use a damp sponge to clean the board from the remaining paper. use aceton at the end to remove toner instead of steelwool, make it easier to clean the board
If you cool down the board slow but make it really cold, the toner is very tolerant to all kind of rubbing. Yes you can use aceton instead of steel wool after the etching process to remove the remaining toner. Removing the paper from the bare copper is important in getting a good etching, but the paper on top of the toner doesn't really do any harm. But indeed, this is the tricky part of the process and requires experience. Underdo it rather than overdo the paper removal, is my advice. Good luck!
Thank you so much for your video. Yes I've watched other videos and had a good idea of what to do, but your clear well texted video clearly stating times, was of extreme importance. Thanks
@@ThePluis89 welke printer gebruik je? Je hebt LASER Printer nodig. Die heeft geen inkt maar een poeder dat verhit wordt en dan smelt. Geen inkjet printer. Strijkijzer op hoogste stand!
For me sometime the printed circuit on the glossy paper when I heat from iron box it doesn't get imprinted on the copper side of the PCB so what should I do.
@@zjokka hi I tried to take printout in glossy magazine sheet from lazer printer but still the circuit is not getting printed on the PCB what should I do. Please help me.
sanjeevrao9392 i cannot tell what the problem is from here without seeing it... if the laser toner mask is not transferring it could be a) not using laser printer b) paper too soft C) not enough heat - how are you applying the heat? Watch the video again its all there ... no tricks
@@sanjeevrao-xb4pk What's a heat box? You see what I use -- a clothing iron... but you need to apply heat for longer time than shown live in the video.
generally, a layout should come with dimensions. If there are none and the pcb has a standard IC, use trial-and-error test prints to match the footprint of the IC. Why doesn't somebody like John Mayer just has his guitar tech do this for him?
Hello! Subscribed! Could you please suggest a Laser printer model number (India) which prints solid blacks? Some Laser printers print dotted blacks on photo paper which aren't solid black. ( I tried HP / brother which were under 10k & they were not solid black but had a kinda stippled/dotted appearance). (Printed on the best setting) .Do you have Any experience with the Brother 2351DW ? Thank you so much ! 🙏
Thanks for your interest... laser printers are all basically the same process: a powder is heated until it melts and becomes liquid and is then shot onto the page. If you don't have access to a laser printer, you can use a photocopy machine -- it's the same process. Regarding the quality of the print, the stippled/dotted appearance - this may be a low resolution setting? A laser printer should be able to print in undotted black. Hope this helps.
Greyam acetone is used for 1) cleaning / degreasing the copper board; 2) removing toner from the etched board. You could use detergent or soap for 1 and steelwool or light sandpaper for 2. Great question!
@@Greyam-cm2gt an inkjet printer sprays ink on the paper; a laserprinter uses toner, which comes as a powder in the cartridge. When heated up this powder melts and sticks to the paper. But it is molded into a film thin form which is easily transfered as a whole. The whole process requires LASER TONER, but don't forget that Xerox machine also use this. You could go the print shop and get a good copy there. Also, when printing, check your settings: you can choose the quality of print. Choose the highest resolution you can get, so the printer uses a lot of toner. This will give you a more solid toner mask. Don't forget to like and subscribe....it really helps - more questions? Let me know!
Hi Jack! Well this procedure is a result of years experimenting and trying to avoid somme commercial toner transfer products. The printer toner is a powder that is heated to become a liquid ink that is than projected onto the surface. You need a paper that will easily allow the toner image to get detached from the paper and sticking to the copper board. The glossy magazine paper works best in my experience. The very glossy plastic like covers may also work - never tried that. Hope this helps. Do give it a try and don't forget to share your discoveries with the rest of the world on yt ;-)
@@zjokka: THNX for your response! So far I always tried the COVERS with changing results,: one "sort of glossy paper" just seems to be more effective than other. My idea was that the 'normal' paper within the glossy magazines may absorb the laser-toner more than the shiny cover does you see. I use an old(er) HP laseprinter and will certainly try next time! THNX!
@@jackraves7363 magazine paper has a glossy, plastic like covering that is essential in easily releasing the toner when it's ironed onto the pcb. Paper doesn't have this layer, so it does not easily come off without damaging the toner. Thick plastic like magazine covers contain so much plastic that it might melt into the iron.
Я протыкаю БУМАГУ, чтобы воздух вышел снизу. Это улучшит контакт между тонером и медью. Не прокалывайте участки печати тонером! Проколите голые бумажные участки! Удачи!
Hi Romesh, thanks for the question. The answer: YES! The chemical you use for etching the pcb doesn't really matter, the method is just about how to put a mask on the pcb to protect the parts that should not be eaten away by the chemicals.
Sir mein agar Kisi pcb leyot ko download karta Hu to kya usse direct print Kar Sakta Hu ya mujhe pcb ki size set Karni hogi please sir reply Karna thank you sir.
Please suggest the website/app. etc through which I can take a print of my project. I am very much Interested in fabricating Hi-Fi Amplifires. I etch circuit manually by hand using oil paint.
@@johnderwin I don't know, honestly, but why not try it? it might work better than the glossy magazine paper... I have always wanted to try baking paper as well... If you own a laser printer you can experiment.
Greg Chamberlin it works on aluminium and other metals - have no personal experience etching steel. If it takes a very long time to etch the toner mask may suffer. Experiment - film and upload. I would like to know too...
In principle: yes. In practice: no. You will need much stronger acid, longer etching time or higher heat to break down the stainless steel. Aluminium is very soft, as is copper, but stainless steel is very hard and strong.
Hey there. Question for you. When you iron the magazine paper onto the plate for a minute, did that leave the glossy material from the magazine paper onto the brass plate? I have done a few attempts, and the glossy material is present on the plate. I havent proceed any further beyond this. I think the glossy material might prevent acid from etching the plate
Keesu C Don’t use the covers they are laminated with plastic - just use the inside pages like I show in the video. Dont forget to subscribe, im posting an update next week...
@@zjokka I think that he's saying that he cannot get the glossy paper off of the plate. Just need to try harder and soak it in water and peel it off by hand.
@@Jnglfvr just use cold water (or lukewarm, anything that will not melt the toner) and rub the paper off. If you cleaned the board well and transfer was ok, you cannot damage the toner traces at this point.
good buddy,,,tell me that in my city shopkeepers are saying that photo papers or butter papers cant be put into the laser jet printer,,,so its possible?
Thanks for your comment. Yes, you can use different material, but they have to have a somewhat glossy surface and be able to withstand the heat. I use this because glossy magazine paper is very easy to come by.
The info I found, and this was years ago, suggested 20% hydrogen peroxide and 80% hydrochloric acid, but I now fill the etching cup half with warm water first, than about the same about hydrochloric, then a good dash of peroxide. The peroxide is the most violent, the catalyst, so always less of that. Using a warm solution also speeds up the process tremendously. But be careful, if the solution is too hot it may cause the toner to come loose. This video was made years after I quit building effects, but it really a result of experimenting in the course of about 100 pcbs But great question. Don't I specify concentration in the video?
Thank you for your answer Looking again at the video, it seems it's a 200 vol hydrogen peroxyde (written on the bottle), which is a very high concentration
Hi Lizty, I don't know what you mean by ordinary photo paper... you can try it. I just use magazine paper because it's widely available and free. Before I used to use some kind of photo paper for inkjet printer + laser printer. That worked too. But it is important to use a LASER PRINTER, which use a powder toner which melts when heated. You need this to be able to make the transfer. Inkjet printer doesn't work, it sprays ink like a spray can.
zjokka Thank you so much sir im enlightened through your explanation Ahh that's the reason why my lay out transferred to my cooper clad coz i used inkjet printer lol
Interesting. I haven't tried the holes in the paper thing before, but it seems like it would affect the effective iron to board contact.
Personally I have had great success using a travel type clothes iron. Here in the USA I find travel irons at thrift stores all the time. They usually have a folding handle, a slick plastic coating to slide around more easily, and they don't have steam holes. The lack of steam means you don't need to worry about contamination from the gunk that tends to build up with steam irons, and you get uniform surface contact.
When looking for glossy paper to print on, avoid pages with any color from orange to red to purple (think of colors on a color wheel here). I have transferred several designs on junk paper that had colors close to red. More than half of those were junk because the way red-ish ink tends to transfer onto the copper. I wasn't able to get the red-ish ink off without damaging the transfer. After I had that problem a few different times, using paper from different sources, I just avoid anything red-ish in color.
I watched another upload recently where the guy suggested using the backing paper from vinyl graphics. All sign makers and graphics shops throw away tons of the stuff and will give it away to anyone that asks. It takes a bit more planning and effort to acquire vinyl backing paper but it is on my list of things to try at some point.
What was the resolution of your lettering on this board? It looked pretty solid for such fine detail. The best resolution I've been able to manage has been 0.4mm traces using toner transfer and ferric chloride. I've started playing with dry film because I want to be able to use some smaller surface mount packages like a 64pin 10x10, 0.5mm pitch LQFP. So far dry film photoresist has a lot more variables and dialing in a good technique requires a lot more trial and error.
...anyways, nice upload. I sub'd and added this to my "PCB Fabrication and Prototype DIY" playlist.
-Jake
to anyone else reading this and unawares, Hydrocloric Acid is available in big box home improvement stores in the US. It's called Muriatic Acid and is sold for etching/cleaning concrete. Hydrogen Peroxide 3% is sold in any pharmacy. The YT channel "Nurd Rage" has several videos about these enchants too.
(My channel is not monetized nor do I plan to change that. I don't care if you or anyone else checks it out. This is not spam. I have nothing to gain. I simply like to share odds and ends occasionally, usually FOSS'y or OSHW related. My playlists on YT are a form of personal notes and references however they are publicly listed and roughly indexed alphabetically.)
Perforating the paper helps to let the air underneath escape, which is critical to the transfer; Yes, using the iron was all part of the challenge to use materials available in the house. Thanks for commenting!
quick tip; the PCB material is fiberglass, and you do not want to breathe the dust from made cutting it, as that can lead to a myriad of horrible things.
Hoe kom je aan een literfles acetone ? Ik vind ze alleen bij Etos en Kruidvat in van die miezerige 125ml flesjes.
Bij de drogist, als die nog bestaat, of nog beter: bij de doe-het-zelf zaak. Veel succes!
@@zjokkaNee, vergeet het maar. Bij de doe-het-zelf is er alleen maar acetone vervanger te koop in een literfles. Dat wordt dus weer online bestellen alsof de fysieke wereld niet meer bestaat.
Donald Thrump being useful for printed circuit boards.
Very Good
This cracked it for me! finally found a working method.
Thanks so much. Yes this is the result of many experiments refining a almost costless method of producing pcbs. How long should you iron? How long should I etch it? are questions that cannot be answered - but every time you do it you'll get better at estimating the times.
after removing the paper, you could use a damp sponge to clean the board from the remaining paper. use aceton at the end to remove toner instead of steelwool, make it easier to clean the board
If you cool down the board slow but make it really cold, the toner is very tolerant to all kind of rubbing.
Yes you can use aceton instead of steel wool after the etching process to remove the remaining toner.
Removing the paper from the bare copper is important in getting a good etching, but the paper on top of the toner doesn't really do any harm.
But indeed, this is the tricky part of the process and requires experience.
Underdo it rather than overdo the paper removal, is my advice. Good luck!
Removing the paper from the toner is the hardest part especially when copper pour method is used for pcb design.
Depends on the exact material used in the paper and its thickness... but true still.
Can i use any kind of xerox machine the coomon xerox machine?
YES, absolutely! xerox machine has a laser printer built in
Excellent. Why the puncture holes in the paper?
To let the air escape and make the toner stick to the copper better! Don't forget to subscribe!
very interested demo video ,, thanks ,, it s asnwers mt qusestion .. 🤟🤘
Excellent video, now I understand how to use a magazine paper for toner transfer.
Thank you so much for your video. Yes I've watched other videos and had a good idea of what to do, but your clear well texted video clearly stating times, was of extreme importance. Thanks
Gebruik je speciale inkt ofzo ik heb dus van dat glossy foto papier gehaald en 10minuten de bout erop gehouden maar niks geeft af??
Het hele idee is dat je geen speciaal papier nodig hebt, maar gewoon papier uit een tijdschrift gebruikt. En een laser printer. Hoe kon je dit missen?
@@zjokka dat doe ik ook alleen de inkt wil niet afgeven op het koper ik weet niet hoezo heb verschillende papieren geprobeerd...
@@ThePluis89 welke printer gebruik je? Je hebt LASER Printer nodig. Die heeft geen inkt maar een poeder dat verhit wordt en dan smelt. Geen inkjet printer.
Strijkijzer op hoogste stand!
@@zjokka ow zoooo ja dan komt de aap uit de mouw danku waarschijnlijk verkeerde printer
@zjokka Hoelang moet ik de strijkijzer erop houden ongeveer ?
For me sometime the printed circuit on the glossy paper when I heat from iron box it doesn't get imprinted on the copper side of the PCB so what should I do.
sanjeevrao9392 apply more heat for a longer time
@@zjokka hi I tried to take printout in glossy magazine sheet from lazer printer but still the circuit is not getting printed on the PCB what should I do. Please help me.
sanjeevrao9392 i cannot tell what the problem is from here without seeing it... if the laser toner mask is not transferring it could be a) not using laser printer b) paper too soft C) not enough heat - how are you applying the heat? Watch the video again its all there ... no tricks
@@zjokka I am applying the heat by iron box
@@sanjeevrao-xb4pk What's a heat box? You see what I use -- a clothing iron... but you need to apply heat for longer time than shown live in the video.
Which printer used ?
I used my own printer
Printer means xerox machine ?
@@sabirsande5490 no it's a printer, not a Xerox machine
Okk
Thanks
Can you use inkjet printer instead of laser printer?
No - laser toner is powder that melts unto the paper. Inkjet will not work. Good luck! Please subscribe? Thanks
how did you scale it to correct size.
generally, a layout should come with dimensions. If there are none and the pcb has a standard IC, use trial-and-error test prints to match the footprint of the IC.
Why doesn't somebody like John Mayer just has his guitar tech do this for him?
Hello! Subscribed!
Could you please suggest a Laser printer model number (India) which prints solid blacks? Some Laser printers print dotted blacks on photo paper which aren't solid black. ( I tried HP / brother which were under 10k & they were not solid black but had a kinda stippled/dotted appearance). (Printed on the best setting) .Do you have Any experience with the Brother 2351DW ?
Thank you so much ! 🙏
Thanks for your interest... laser printers are all basically the same process: a powder is heated until it melts and becomes liquid and is then shot onto the page. If you don't have access to a laser printer, you can use a photocopy machine -- it's the same process. Regarding the quality of the print, the stippled/dotted appearance - this may be a low resolution setting? A laser printer should be able to print in undotted black. Hope this helps.
Cool..wow..Is this working without acetone? Thnaks
Greyam acetone is used for 1) cleaning / degreasing the copper board; 2) removing toner from the etched board. You could use detergent or soap for 1 and steelwool or light sandpaper for 2. Great question!
@@zjokka Thanks mate.great. Any alternate for lazer print? Ive done this earlier using my inkjet but it melts the ink. Thanks
@@Greyam-cm2gt an inkjet printer sprays ink on the paper; a laserprinter uses toner, which comes as a powder in the cartridge. When heated up this powder melts and sticks to the paper. But it is molded into a film thin form which is easily transfered as a whole.
The whole process requires LASER TONER, but don't forget that Xerox machine also use this. You could go the print shop and get a good copy there.
Also, when printing, check your settings: you can choose the quality of print. Choose the highest resolution you can get, so the printer uses a lot of toner. This will give you a more solid toner mask.
Don't forget to like and subscribe....it really helps - more questions? Let me know!
@@zjokka Thanks mate. really appreciate
like to ask why the (glossy) pages are used and NOT the cover... we might then use 'normal' paper as well , just curious 😉
Hi Jack! Well this procedure is a result of years experimenting and trying to avoid somme commercial toner transfer products.
The printer toner is a powder that is heated to become a liquid ink that is than projected onto the surface.
You need a paper that will easily allow the toner image to get detached from the paper and sticking to the copper board. The glossy magazine paper works best in my experience. The very glossy plastic like covers may also work - never tried that.
Hope this helps. Do give it a try and don't forget to share your discoveries with the rest of the world on yt ;-)
@@zjokka: THNX for your response! So far I always tried the COVERS with changing results,: one "sort of glossy paper" just seems to be more effective than other. My idea was that the 'normal' paper within the glossy magazines may absorb the laser-toner more than the shiny cover does you see. I use an old(er) HP laseprinter and will certainly try next time! THNX!
@@jackraves7363 magazine paper has a glossy, plastic like covering that is essential in easily releasing the toner when it's ironed onto the pcb. Paper doesn't have this layer, so it does not easily come off without damaging the toner. Thick plastic like magazine covers contain so much plastic that it might melt into the iron.
Здравствуйте, для чего Вы протыкали бумагу с тонером на 4:27, ножом? Спасибо.
Я протыкаю БУМАГУ, чтобы воздух вышел снизу. Это улучшит контакт между тонером и медью. Не прокалывайте участки печати тонером! Проколите голые бумажные участки! Удачи!
Благодарю за комментарий.
Can we use fecl3 for itching on glossy paper ??
Hi Romesh, thanks for the question. The answer: YES! The chemical you use for etching the pcb doesn't really matter, the method is just about how to put a mask on the pcb to protect the parts that should not be eaten away by the chemicals.
Sir mein agar Kisi pcb leyot ko download karta Hu to kya usse direct print Kar Sakta Hu ya mujhe pcb ki size set Karni hogi please sir reply Karna thank you sir.
Please suggest the website/app. etc through which I can take a print of my project. I am very much Interested in fabricating Hi-Fi Amplifires. I etch circuit manually by hand using oil paint.
Please try and rephrase your question, it's not clear to me what you are asking.
Hi what make and model is your printer.
john derwin only thing that matters for this process is that it is a LASER printer - its a HP LaserJet P1606dn
@@zjokka Hi again does the paper have to be high gloss or would a sheen paper do. thanks
@@johnderwin I don't know, honestly, but why not try it? it might work better than the glossy magazine paper... I have always wanted to try baking paper as well... If you own a laser printer you can experiment.
Does this method work on steel as well
Greg Chamberlin it works on aluminium and other metals - have no personal experience etching steel. If it takes a very long time to etch the toner mask may suffer. Experiment - film and upload. I would like to know too...
The most informative demo I've seen!
Can you do this on stainless steel as well?
In principle: yes. In practice: no. You will need much stronger acid, longer etching time or higher heat to break down the stainless steel. Aluminium is very soft, as is copper, but stainless steel is very hard and strong.
Hey there. Question for you. When you iron the magazine paper onto the plate for a minute, did that leave the glossy material from the magazine paper onto the brass plate? I have done a few attempts, and the glossy material is present on the plate. I havent proceed any further beyond this. I think the glossy material might prevent acid from etching the plate
Keesu C Don’t use the covers they are laminated with plastic - just use the inside pages like I show in the video. Dont forget to subscribe, im posting an update next week...
@@zjokka I used the middle pages not cover. I will try again.
@@zjokka I think that he's saying that he cannot get the glossy paper off of the plate. Just need to try harder and soak it in water and peel it off by hand.
@@Jnglfvr just use cold water (or lukewarm, anything that will not melt the toner) and rub the paper off. If you cleaned the board well and transfer was ok, you cannot damage the toner traces at this point.
good buddy,,,tell me that in my city shopkeepers are saying that photo papers or butter papers cant be put into the laser jet printer,,,so its possible?
Thanks for your comment. Yes, you can use different material, but they have to have a somewhat glossy surface and be able to withstand the heat. I use this because glossy magazine paper is very easy to come by.
thanks bro,,,and either by taking two much prints on glossy papers,,is it harmful for laser jet...?
Not at all... just prints on it just like on any other surface...have fun, experiment!
Very Interesting - What is the concentration of the hydrogen peroxyde you are using ?
The info I found, and this was years ago, suggested 20% hydrogen peroxide and 80% hydrochloric acid, but I now fill the etching cup half with warm water first, than about the same about hydrochloric, then a good dash of peroxide. The peroxide is the most violent, the catalyst, so always less of that. Using a warm solution also speeds up the process tremendously. But be careful, if the solution is too hot it may cause the toner to come loose.
This video was made years after I quit building effects, but it really a result of experimenting in the course of about 100 pcbs
But great question. Don't I specify concentration in the video?
Thank you for your answer
Looking again at the video, it seems it's a 200 vol hydrogen peroxyde (written on the bottle), which is a very high concentration
Hi sir can i use an ordinary photo paper? And any printer like canon or epson?
Hi Lizty, I don't know what you mean by ordinary photo paper... you can try it. I just use magazine paper because it's widely available and free. Before I used to use some kind of photo paper for inkjet printer + laser printer. That worked too. But it is important to use a LASER PRINTER, which use a powder toner which melts when heated. You need this to be able to make the transfer. Inkjet printer doesn't work, it sprays ink like a spray can.
zjokka
Thank you so much sir im enlightened through your explanation
Ahh that's the reason why my lay out transferred to my cooper clad coz i used inkjet printer lol
what is the name of the tool that you used for cutting the pcb ?
Hi Ali, that a DREMEL tool. It seems i cannot post links here, so you will have to google it yourself ;-)
Thanks
i got it , thanks
can i use any kind of printer
Can you read the title or the description?
was that copper plate
Anon Baba yes single sided copper clad blank pcb board
what is the ingredients for pickling?
что за ингредиенты для травления?
The chemicals you will need are:
Соля́ная кислота́ + Перокси́д водоро́да
I like this video keep going 🤠 greeting from Morocco*°^
Awesome! Thank you!
Hello Sir could you be so kind as to send me this PCB software. Thank you in advance.
diy-fever.com/software/diylc/
Good use for Trump's picture!
great work! 2 thumbs up!
hes going to need those thumbs when he cuts his off .
LMAO!
You make it easier !
Thank you
Thanks QaTaRi -- it's been a process that evolve over years of trying... good luck!
And a bit of advice......Use only H2O ........Do not use Water......???
I don't think I understand you question/remark... only use H2O for what?
"H2O" and "water" are the same thing.
Todd Carney Are you sure? I mean checked Wikipedia etc 😉
H2O2
really nice!!
Great video thanks
Well explain sir from your vid
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
👍😊
😁trump