I went to the local Sign making company. They had 3M Scotch brite vinyl backing paper. Its got a shiny surface. the Toner just attached to it, but can come off easily by hand. Ironed on the PCB. Worked beautifully. Used a brother laser printer. unchecked the save toner in advanced properties. Will probably set the printer to place more toner in the next run.
I tried presensitized boards, normal paper, magazine paper, flyer paper, transparent foil, acetone, and nothing worked as well as buying the cheapest auto adhesive vinyl and using your method. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the vinyle paper tip! Worked first shot! (almost) Done with heat press (regular pixmax t-shirt transfert press), 290°C - 120s, screwed as much as dared. Kept gel/silicone matress underneath. Small problem on first shot with heat tape on the side pressed. Taped the back only. Worked like a charm!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is a great way to toner transfer to brass. Worked fantastic with no clean up. Excellent results with Ferric Chloride. Appreciate the clear explanation and video!
I put PCB between two metal pieces 3mm each, heat it with airgun for 3-5minutes on 500C degree (second speed) , then press it in vise and wait till it cool down about 5-10minutes. Gives good results too.
@@dannyyorri2345 Now I use CNC router. Gives you 100% results. All traces under microscope looks perfect. So two ways: if you need more of them order on PCBWay. If you need only few, then cheap china CNC Router does perfect job. No etching anymore for me :) www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=cnc+machine
I've tried it myself. Unfortunately, it is not wood enough for an SMD PCB Where most of the traces are very fine. It will simply mish-mash them all together with no matter how high, how low temp it is or how much pressure you apply, nor how much time you keep the iron on it. And the results are not consistent. Well, I guess for me is definitely going back to the laminator method. Just got to do some further research on it to refine it a little further. Good video presentation by the way.
finally i achived some results after having difficulties with acetone and ironing method. I have a HP Laserjet 1010 which need the max temperature my iron can heat up (350-360 degrees celsius). Also the paper is very important i tried normal,photo paper which did not work at all and i guess they are shielding the heat too much. Backing paper works a but gives unclean results. Finally magazine paper (ikea ad cataloge) works with pretty results like in the video. But i figured out its important to put the piece with the paper into water before removing the paper. (2mins heating, 3-5mins cool down on rair, then put into warm water for 3mins, and remove the paper under water). Another idea i will try out is using a soldering iron to rub the paper from behind (since my toner needs higher temperature of above 320 degrees).
soldering iron works good due higher temp, to control the result you can vary the speed on rubbing also (not only the temperature) but my favorite method is this ttps://ruclips.net/video/HBIxvwZ_0og/видео.html (search for my comment there for additional info)
I tried the 3M Scotchcal Marking Film backing paper on a Brother Laser Printer and had the images come out smeared and repeating like it stuck to the drum. Printed on the glossy side assuming that to be correct. Got some Arlon backing paper, not sure which particular vinyl model, same result. Printed on the opposite side and it took the print wonderfully. Not sure about the transfer performance yet.
"Brother - If you hold the button, it will print whatever was printed last" - Surely this cannot possibly be a security and data protection issue, now can it?
.... It's kinda default for many big office printers. ( and in truth the printer's buffer keeps way more than you'd like. the file, time stamp...) Just not many people use/know it =)
Trying your method I found out a few things about printers first laser color printer won't work because the multiple rollers messed the print, second some printers have low fusing heat and the toner falls/rubs off too easily of the vinyl backer. For me old 2006 brother laser printer worked the best.
Another tip: put the copper board in the etchant for about 30 seconds, rinse, dry then try toner transfer. It gives the toner something to grab onto, better than steel wool etc.
You are 100% right! In fact, I never clean the copper or degrease it. The toner sticks better to "dirty" copper than to clean copper. it is a myth it has to be clean.
+1. I've always had 100% transfers using this method whether it's with blue transfer film, glossy mag paper or photo paper. I also always rinse the whole lot under a cold tap to cool and set the transfer before trying to peel away the transfer medium.
Tip: If you get an infrared heater, you'll find there are hot and cold spots on your iron. My iron's tip is much hotter than the center of it. Something to be aware of.
Great video! I have some feedback for you. I have been doing this exact method ever since I got into making my own PCB via the toner transfer method. I can tell you that the type of vinyl backing paper does matter. I have several vinyl graphics shops in my city and therefore have had the luxury of trying several different brands. The toner doesn't seem to stick well to some brands and okay on others. So far the brand I like is made by 3M. It's called "3M Scotchcal Marking Film". It is white on one side and light blue on the other. The light blue side is not all that glossy, but has a unique feel to it (difficult to describe). Toner from laser printers stick to it very well. I use an HP Laserjet4200n and I print on the blue side. I can also tell you from experience that I've printed on the 3M paper, left it sit for over a week, came back and it still performed the toner transfer method flawlessly. I am so glad others found this method of toner transfer. On a side note, most if not all vinyl graphics shops discard these papers as trash. Once they pull the vinyl off the paper to make their sign or whatever, the paper backing is useless to them. They are more than happy to let me have all I can carry. There for I have a PERFECT paper for doing toner transfer, pay nothing for it, and I have it in an inexhaustible supply. Keep up the great videos!
Bro,,its great,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
Great video. For some reason I couldn't get it to work for me. Is the "backing" you are printing on, is it smoth? I'm using HP LaserJet and for some reason I can't get it to work. Any tips? Thanks
Me too...I see these videos and it always works first time...I've tried it with all kinds of paper, dozens, I mean DOZENS of times, and it never comes out right, always something left on the paper. very frustrating. Read somewhere it was the Brother printer, but this wonderful man has a brother too. I ordered some yellow xfer paper, let's see if that works. The best I've gotten is using sticker backing, but I had to clean it with acetone first, or the toner in the printer doesn't stick, but I have to rub it HARD to get it to xfer, iron doesn't do it.
I've tested using a Monocote iron by Top Flight. Had a couple lying around from my R/C airplane building days. Actually works very well with good temperature control and a small Teflon shoe that doesn't stick.
I've done the same, but I took it and flattened the face against some 320 grit sandpaper. My iron actually had a bit of a "dish" to it before I flattened it.
Bro,,its great,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
I'm looking to make my own and first PCB, but it needs to be two layers, a thickness of 1mm, and what's known as gold fingers. Anyone knows where I can find a two-side copper clad board and with 1mm of thickness?
I have seen a lot of great videos about this, I have a circuit drawing prog, but it wont do the pcb layout, what program do you use for pcb layout ??. none of these videos tel you that or suggust one.
I don't use sharpies, as I thought the enchant would just go through like said. Since I have never used sharpies though, I was curious how he touched them up at all.
Years ago we used "Decon Dalo" pens which had thick gooey ink and spring-loaded hard fibre tips that kept them sealed between traces. I've seen an electronics retailer selling regular Staedtler 318-3 Lumocolor® permanent ink markers as etch-resist pens. The '3' seems to denote blue ink so I guess black would be 318-9, green: 318-5 and red: 318-2 (though that may be hard to discern on copper surface). Then again, there are double-ended numbers specifically marketed for the purpose on ebay.. www.ebay.com.au/itm/CCL-Etch-Resistant-Resist-Anti-Etching-PCB-Perm-Ink-Marker-Pen-Circuit-Board-Non/162867283703?hash=item25eba586f7:g:J-AAAOSwTLpbMdgi
I don't believe so, a laser printer uses a "plastic" powder for the printing that acts as the resist. I don't think the ink from a photo printer will work.
The only way inkjet printers will work is if you use a chemical transfer like acetone right after printing before the ink has a total time to dry. The ink is a water-based ink so you have to take that into consideration when you do your transfer.
Ink from inkjet printers will not stop the etching process where you lay down the ink got so it'll a along with anything else it's just colored pigment
thank you for the video! make sure that the PCB is exactly in the center of the screw thread! it seemed that you did not have the pcb in the center. skew to press is bad for your press (I think!) . friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
I also used these yellow papers and I tried many printers for them to have a print but a lot of time, it doesnot get the print,,,,,Which printer u r using,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The trick is to roughen the surface of the copper board first with wet and dry or a scotch pad, really scuff it up and make it look like a matt (not shiny) surface this gives a rough surface for the inket toner to stick to, then rinse the and thoroughly dry the board, use a non stick iron on a flat surface on a high heat, and evenly iron the surface making sure you get all the edges, then let the board cool down to room temperature and then very slowly peel off the yellow paper, also make sure you print on the shiny side only of the yellow transfer paper this is critical, I use a normal mono laser printer, obviously has to be a laser printer, inkjet wont work, laser toner is a powdered plastic not an ink
Bro,,,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
just a thought..if you go to an Indian supply store..ask for an "electric roti maker"..its like a top and bottom sided heat press...might be a simple solution. the tip about the vinyl backing paper is gold..could go to a sign maker, and ask for the scraps they throw away ..electric roti maker link ruclips.net/video/48T87JOed60/видео.html
You can see that he did not get a perfect toner transfer. I have tried every possible solution to get a perfect toner transfer and have found that in most cases it can't be done with this method. Another thing is that even after the toner is stuck to the copper, it is very delicate and can be scratched off by accidental touching of it. So, if you want to save yourself a lot of wasted time and wasted materials, don't be suckered into attempting this method. The method that will produce perfect results is the method using photoresist film. You can buy a sixteen-foot roll of it on amazon.com for about ten dollars. You will also need ultraviolet light. They say that you can use other bulbs that produce the equivalent of daylight, but ultraviolet light will work way faster. You will need OHP (Overhead Project Transparency Sheets). There are a few more steps involved, so there is a learning process that will take some practice. You can look up this method on youtube.
try to heat between two iron plates, squeezed in an induction oven, and print on aluminum foil, do not remove it, and etch after heating in the pickling bath
![Toner transfer without heat PCB [ easy way ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/p3aRRSdQjxY/mqdefault.jpg)
I went to the local Sign making company. They had 3M Scotch brite vinyl backing paper. Its got a shiny surface. the Toner just attached to it, but can come off easily by hand. Ironed on the PCB. Worked beautifully. Used a brother laser printer. unchecked the save toner in advanced properties. Will probably set the printer to place more toner in the next run.
I tried presensitized boards, normal paper, magazine paper, flyer paper, transparent foil, acetone, and nothing worked as well as buying the cheapest auto adhesive vinyl and using your method. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the vinyle paper tip! Worked first shot! (almost)
Done with heat press (regular pixmax t-shirt transfert press), 290°C - 120s, screwed as much as dared. Kept gel/silicone matress underneath.
Small problem on first shot with heat tape on the side pressed. Taped the back only.
Worked like a charm!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is a great way to toner transfer to brass. Worked fantastic with no clean up. Excellent results with Ferric Chloride. Appreciate the clear explanation and video!
I put PCB between two metal pieces 3mm each, heat it with airgun for 3-5minutes on 500C degree (second speed) , then press it in vise and wait till it cool down about 5-10minutes. Gives good results too.
will try that thanks.
@@dannyyorri2345 Now I use CNC router. Gives you 100% results. All traces under microscope looks perfect. So two ways: if you need more of them order on PCBWay. If you need only few, then cheap china CNC Router does perfect job. No etching anymore for me :)
www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=cnc+machine
😅 3:54
I've tried it myself. Unfortunately, it is not wood enough for an SMD PCB Where most of the traces are very fine. It will simply mish-mash them all together with no matter how high, how low temp it is or how much pressure you apply, nor how much time you keep the iron on it. And the results are not consistent. Well, I guess for me is definitely going back to the laminator method. Just got to do some further research on it to refine it a little further. Good video presentation by the way.
finally i achived some results after having difficulties with acetone and ironing method. I have a HP Laserjet 1010 which need the max temperature my iron can heat up (350-360 degrees celsius). Also the paper is very important i tried normal,photo paper which did not work at all and i guess they are shielding the heat too much. Backing paper works a but gives unclean results. Finally magazine paper (ikea ad cataloge) works with pretty results like in the video. But i figured out its important to put the piece with the paper into water before removing the paper. (2mins heating, 3-5mins cool down on rair, then put into warm water for 3mins, and remove the paper under water). Another idea i will try out is using a soldering iron to rub the paper from behind (since my toner needs higher temperature of above 320 degrees).
soldering iron works good due higher temp, to control the result you can vary the speed on rubbing also (not only the temperature)
but my favorite method is this ttps://ruclips.net/video/HBIxvwZ_0og/видео.html
(search for my comment there for additional info)
I tried the 3M Scotchcal Marking Film backing paper on a Brother Laser Printer and had the images come out smeared and repeating like it stuck to the drum. Printed on the glossy side assuming that to be correct.
Got some Arlon backing paper, not sure which particular vinyl model, same result. Printed on the opposite side and it took the print wonderfully. Not sure about the transfer performance yet.
"Brother - If you hold the button, it will print whatever was printed last" - Surely this cannot possibly be a security and data protection issue, now can it?
.... It's kinda default for many big office printers. ( and in truth the printer's buffer keeps way more than you'd like. the file, time stamp...)
Just not many people use/know it =)
Ancient printer....newer models dont
Great video thanks, what is best way to achieve alignment of the graphics on a double sided board?
I put each on a pice of paper that is folded down the center and line them up with each other. Then use the fold as a hinge.
@@imagineform thank you
Trying your method I found out a few things about printers first laser color printer won't work because the multiple rollers messed the print, second some printers have low fusing heat and the toner falls/rubs off too easily of the vinyl backer. For me old 2006 brother laser printer worked the best.
Great video I saw another video but it recomended using photo paper which worked well for toner transfer.
Hello, Did you use jet ink printer or laser ink printer?
Has to be laser
9:35 Do this part pretty carefully... *Drops PCB* :,D. Good Video though! :)
The kind of toner in the printer is also of concern to have succesfully make a print on the pcb. the new version toner do not so well.
Another tip: put the copper board in the etchant for about 30 seconds, rinse, dry then try toner transfer. It gives the toner something to grab onto, better than steel wool etc.
You are 100% right! In fact, I never clean the copper or degrease it. The toner sticks better to "dirty" copper than to clean copper. it is a myth it has to be clean.
+1. I've always had 100% transfers using this method whether it's with blue transfer film, glossy mag paper or photo paper. I also always rinse the whole lot under a cold tap to cool and set the transfer before trying to peel away the transfer medium.
I am going to give that a shot!
Tip: If you get an infrared heater, you'll find there are hot and cold spots on your iron. My iron's tip is much hotter than the center of it. Something to be aware of.
why @ time 11:06 the other side of pcb with copper pour there does not seem to have full toner transfer from the paper?
I think it’s just a glare, it etched fine
you think i could just clamp it between two plates that bolt together or something and stick it in the oven for a bit?
Yeah I think that should work as long as you can get even pressure
Great video! I have some feedback for you.
I have been doing this exact method ever since I got into making my own PCB via the toner transfer method. I can tell you that the type of vinyl backing paper does matter. I have several vinyl graphics shops in my city and therefore have had the luxury of trying several different brands. The toner doesn't seem to stick well to some brands and okay on others. So far the brand I like is made by 3M. It's called "3M Scotchcal Marking Film". It is white on one side and light blue on the other. The light blue side is not all that glossy, but has a unique feel to it (difficult to describe). Toner from laser printers stick to it very well. I use an HP Laserjet4200n and I print on the blue side. I can also tell you from experience that I've printed on the 3M paper, left it sit for over a week, came back and it still performed the toner transfer method flawlessly. I am so glad others found this method of toner transfer. On a side note, most if not all vinyl graphics shops discard these papers as trash. Once they pull the vinyl off the paper to make their sign or whatever, the paper backing is useless to them. They are more than happy to let me have all I can carry. There for I have a PERFECT paper for doing toner transfer, pay nothing for it, and I have it in an inexhaustible supply.
Keep up the great videos!
Bro,,its great,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
Great video. For some reason I couldn't get it to work for me.
Is the "backing" you are printing on, is it smoth? I'm using HP LaserJet and for some reason I can't get it to work.
Any tips?
Thanks
Me too...I see these videos and it always works first time...I've tried it with all kinds of paper, dozens, I mean DOZENS of times, and it never comes out right, always something left on the paper. very frustrating. Read somewhere it was the Brother printer, but this wonderful man has a brother too. I ordered some yellow xfer paper, let's see if that works.
The best I've gotten is using sticker backing, but I had to clean it with acetone first, or the toner in the printer doesn't stick, but I have to rub it HARD to get it to xfer, iron doesn't do it.
Nice and quick. Did u use the back off the vynls are the in between? Thank
have you seen the vertical missed track (2:51)!!!!!
@@bobyla13 no
Hi I am trying toner transfer by heat but it's not coming correctly so what should I do. Which paper are you using I am using glossy sheet of 180 gsm.
I've tested using a Monocote iron by Top Flight. Had a couple lying around from my R/C airplane building days. Actually works very well with good temperature control and a small Teflon shoe that doesn't stick.
I've done the same, but I took it and flattened the face against some 320 grit sandpaper. My iron actually had a bit of a "dish" to it before I flattened it.
I like to know more about software of pcb designing and make the printing process please let me know you're reply as soon as possible
Links of software to design pcb's
Tom Stringham thank you for teaching and sharing your findings.
Tom, do you electro-etch this PCB after the toner transfer method is complete?
No, just used ferric chloride
Hello, I do not understand your language And I just watch the video Did you use night light paper for this?
It was the paper on the back of vinyl stickers
Nice shop! Dying to try that Arlen paper. Who sells it?
When doing two sides, I use a straight cut of pcb on one edge and tape the paper to it top and bottom. The lineup cannot move.
Bro,,its great,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
i've got great results from using parchment paper. Have you used that and is that adhesive paper any better?
I did try parchment and it didn’t work great with my printer.
Toner tranfer 180° to 210°
For about 3 seconds
Sir, is this an inject printer?
No, it’s a laser.
It is a great job. I am very happy to use your method. I think this time no more water to peal out layer .Thank you sir.❤❤❤❤❤
You printed on the greasy side or dry side?
Glossy
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
2:55 you can see a chunk of a trace that didn't print out. Was this due to the sandwiching of the two papers before printer or was the file corrupted?
Can that "Magic Paper" be reused?
I have tried it and its not worth it, it didn't release as well
Thanks!
I'm looking to make my own and first PCB, but it needs to be two layers, a thickness of 1mm, and what's known as gold fingers. Anyone knows where I can find a two-side copper clad board and with 1mm of thickness?
I have seen a lot of great videos about this, I have a circuit drawing prog, but it wont do the pcb layout, what program do you use for pcb layout ??. none of these videos tel you that or suggust one.
I use eagle, it’s part of auto cad.
the best & popular one is KiCad....try it, it's open source & free
Use the waxed side of the paper sheet that protects a vinyl sheet
How do you " touch up" the traces? Permanent marker? I thought the acid would still etch through it?
Yup just a sharpie. The acid doesn’t touch it. I put a couple coats on letting it dry in between.
I've used sharpies with zero success. Etchant went straight through in a few seconds. Clearly all sharpies are not equal. What brand do you use?
I don't use sharpies, as I thought the enchant would just go through like said. Since I have never used sharpies though, I was curious how he touched them up at all.
Years ago we used "Decon Dalo" pens which had thick gooey ink and spring-loaded hard fibre tips that kept them sealed between traces. I've seen an electronics retailer selling regular Staedtler 318-3 Lumocolor® permanent ink markers as etch-resist pens. The '3' seems to denote blue ink so I guess black would be 318-9, green: 318-5 and red: 318-2 (though that may be hard to discern on copper surface). Then again, there are double-ended numbers specifically marketed for the purpose on ebay..
www.ebay.com.au/itm/CCL-Etch-Resistant-Resist-Anti-Etching-PCB-Perm-Ink-Marker-Pen-Circuit-Board-Non/162867283703?hash=item25eba586f7:g:J-AAAOSwTLpbMdgi
Which side do you print on the glossy side or dull side??
The glossy side.
Can you name the paper nr. Arlon got many kinds.
2100/2200 series is what I used
Can a photo printer do the same job????
I don't believe so, a laser printer uses a "plastic" powder for the printing that acts as the resist. I don't think the ink from a photo printer will work.
@@imagineform I have tried a lot of time. But failed. By the way, Thanks for your reply.
The only way inkjet printers will work is if you use a chemical transfer like acetone right after printing before the ink has a total time to dry. The ink is a water-based ink so you have to take that into consideration when you do your transfer.
Ink from inkjet printers will not stop the etching process where you lay down the ink got so it'll a along with anything else it's just colored pigment
You don't need to bother with that backing stuff. Just use brown packing tape. Works perfect.
I’ll have to try that next time
Does this need a Lazer print?
Yes, it’s the toner in the laser printer that acts as the resist.
thank you for the video!
make sure that the PCB is exactly in the center of the screw thread!
it seemed that you did not have the pcb in the center.
skew to press is bad for your press (I think!)
.
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
Thanks for your video. This is the best way to DIY pcb.
The yellow pcb transfer paper from china works well, just need to slowly peel it away once cooled
I also used these yellow papers and I tried many printers for them to have a print but a lot of time, it doesnot get the print,,,,,Which printer u r using,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The trick is to roughen the surface of the copper board first with wet and dry or a scotch pad, really scuff it up and make it look like a matt (not shiny) surface this gives a rough surface for the inket toner to stick to, then rinse the and thoroughly dry the board, use a non stick iron on a flat surface on a high heat, and evenly iron the surface making sure you get all the edges, then let the board cool down to room temperature and then very slowly peel off the yellow paper, also make sure you print on the shiny side only of the yellow transfer paper this is critical, I use a normal mono laser printer, obviously has to be a laser printer, inkjet wont work, laser toner is a powdered plastic not an ink
Bro,,,,,pls tell me I m making pcb's since a long time,,,one problem we r facing is that our butter yellow paper is not getting a better print when we insert it in the printer and when we use photographic paper, it has a better print but it is not transferable to the pcb,,,we tried on 20 different types of printer,,
I use a Samsung Laser ML2022 and a samsung toner, I will try to make a video showing how I do my PCB's :)
Do you peel the brown paper off and print on the waxy inside of the yellow paper.
without laser printer is it work? I mean the inkjet printer.
+Jitu Hossain no, you need a laser printer
Jitu Hossain: Inkjets use ink, not toner. So there is
no toner (the resist) to transfer to the Copper.
awesome! thank you so much, been search for an alternative to sticky paper mess.
Which paper u have use....?
It’s the backing paper to arlon vinyl used in the sign industry
have you tried a laminator? You usaly have to pass it through a lot but it will transfer the toner
Which photo paper it is GSM ?
It’s not photo paper, it’s the backing to arlon vinyl
What ia paper name ?
Arlon is the brand name. It’s the backing to vinyl they use for signs
C'est interessant ce travail avec la presse. Bravo !
nice job, before I see your video, I did sone experiments with baking papers and I got Similar results, thanks :)
Thanks for good video What is the paper do you use ?
very good worked first time for me !!! 👍
With complex and small traces, toner transfer method is always a pain in the rear end.
I'm sorry if I missed it, but what temperature did you have your press set for? This is awesome!
Should be around 300F. That’s for brother toner, my be a little different for other brands
I really, really want one of those presses. Makes the process look so much easier.
Nice, I like the press.
Second option is best.
Amazing job
Uncle save my project...!!!
Thank...Thank...Thank you
Love from thailand.
If you have a brother laser you need to use Ed Chews method using lacquer or dump your toner and refill with toner from InkOwl.com. Then it works.
Tell us a little more clearly about that paper that Brindt does
just a thought..if you go to an Indian supply store..ask for an "electric roti maker"..its like a top and bottom sided heat press...might be a simple solution. the tip about the vinyl backing paper is gold..could go to a sign maker, and ask for the scraps they throw away ..electric roti maker link ruclips.net/video/48T87JOed60/видео.html
Same thing here, would be a laminator. Less than $80 at Walmart.
I like this video keep going 🤠 greeting from Morocco*°^
Thanks your welcome from Morocco
You can see that he did not get a perfect toner transfer. I have tried every possible solution to get a perfect toner transfer and have found that in most cases it can't be done with this method. Another thing is that even after the toner is stuck to the copper, it is very delicate and can be scratched off by accidental touching of it. So, if you want to save yourself a lot of wasted time and wasted materials, don't be suckered into attempting this method. The method that will produce perfect results is the method using photoresist film. You can buy a sixteen-foot roll of it on amazon.com for about ten dollars. You will also need ultraviolet light. They say that you can use other bulbs that produce the equivalent of daylight, but ultraviolet light will work way faster. You will need OHP (Overhead Project Transparency Sheets). There are a few more steps involved, so there is a learning process that will take some practice. You can look up this method on youtube.
Arlon link was wrong. Try this: www.arlon.com/na_en/products/series-2100-2200
Where do you buy the stuff?
I get it thru my sign supplier, Garston.
Nice video, keep it up, thank you :)
Labai įdomų ir norėtusi, pačiam tai, nuveiktį
try to heat between two iron plates, squeezed in an induction oven, and print on aluminum foil, do not remove it, and etch after heating in the pickling bath
شكرا♥😍🤩💝💝🌹Thank
i have too much water....
impressive!
ruclips.net/video/haqP8xhsYas/видео.html
The print you said looked pretty good is obviously missing a trace
god bless you bro ...
Too long to complicated and who has a Volcunizer?
Ohm my gosh you should try this application! Locate androidcircuitsolver on google
Helpful
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Try photoresist ORDYL 350 Alpoha... This is sux. Ahhah.. buy Vulkanisator for 700 EURO...
for 700€ you can have hours of fun in the brothel, way better than this Vulkanisator ;)
10:22
An improved method
ruclips.net/video/PB7N9uIYW4A/видео.html
That's the shits
this sucks!