@heysamhillier we need more data on this 🙂 What temperature range can you set the AF100 to in dehydration mode? What filaments have you successfully dried with this method (type, temps, time)?
In the US the model he has is AF100. You can save a bit of money and get a simplified version at Walmart called an AF100WM($60 vs $80ish), that has less air fryer type functions, but still has the "Dehydrate" mode and temp/time settings.
@MyTechFun fan of your channel. I can also highly recommend these at makersworld: "Filament Spool Dryer (for dry bags or boxes)" by Michael.tavel and "KYZ FF2 High Airflow Spool Desiccant Holder" by KYZ design. I used them in vaccuum sealed bags and theyre still dry a year later
That's a great idea! I was frustrated that regular filament dryers aren't a reliable option for high-grade engineering materials. I love the creativity; thanks for sharing!
He just made me buy an air fryer too. (I got the AF140, just because it's smaller and looks better than the AF100, it will still fit a filament spool nicely).
I'm surprised more people don't talk about using air fryers for drying. Even CNC Kitchen's recent video didn't even consider it. I've been using one for nearly two years. It's faster and better than an oven in every way. Microwaves are fast but cause inevitable hot spots that damage dessicant and is just a bad idea for filament. The other advantage is all the air is ejected out of a small opening that could be used to monitor how much moisture is coming out. I use a cheap, door style air fryer with a 150F-400F range. It has trays that are just a bit larger than a normal spool and being able to monitor through the glass is really convenient. It's also easier to use temperature probes if you need to keep an eye on it. I also saw a tiny air fryer at Aldi a couple months back for like $30 that would great for just drying dessicant.
I discounted the idea before due to them not being settable to lower. 150F is 65C, which is already too hot to dry PLA. This solves that due to the dehydrate mode.
@@rsilvers129 Well honestly a lot of PLA doesn't need much drying, I use it mostly for ABS/ASA, TPU and PETG. I've also found the actual temperature hitting the spool is lower and haven't had any issues but yes, dehydrate modes are helpful if you really need lower temps.
airfryers are useless for nylon and above. Timers too short or temperatures too low in dehydrating mode. Its kitchen oven or laboratory oven, nothing else.
@@bartman2395 Have you tried it? I haven't used it for anything above Nylon but at least for my unit it has worked perfectly fine for that. Plus the nature of air fryers blasting it with air seems to speed up the process.
i used ziplock bags for a few months, they work really well but i am really glad i bought a 100 litre ip67 rated storage tub. It can hold 32 open rolls and along with desicant holders in the centr of every roll i have about 1.5kg in bags aswell. The tub sits at less than 10% humidity all the time and over a few days it will remove most of the moisture out of pla, abs, petg with out needing to use a dryer.
I saw this on a forum as well, and had the same Ninja Air Fryer. I was also surprised at how the perfectly the spools fit. Now I'm confident that its working properly, Thanks!
I have the exact same air fryer. I recently upgraded to the Ninja mega bucket air fry and have been using the old one for drying filament. Works really well - its almost like the bucket was made specifically for filament spools!
I love this because I hate the obsession some people have with spending far too much money on dry storage for their filament and the filament dryers most companies are selling truly don't work the best. Also extremely well made video. Very funny. Definitely subbing.
I use the same air fryer, it seems to be made for that task, the spools fit exactly! I'd add a couple of considerations: - it has been said in the video, but I'll repeat it because it's very important and I think it wasn't said clearly enough. Make sure the air fryer has a dehydrate function, otherwise it's useless as it will start from 160°C and with 1h of maximum run time. This is important especially in the EU, where there are just a couple models available with dehydrate function; - I don't like the idea of drying silica gel with filament: the first reason is that while it dries it will dump a lot of moisture (well, all that it adsorbed from the last dry!) making the drying of filament less effective or even giving more moisture to the filament. The second reason is that silica gel doesn't melt, so it can be dried very quickly at higher temperatures (or even just in the microwave where it comes off very moist outside, but with a quick dive in the air fryer will fix it; like 5 minutes in the microwave and 10 at 100°C in the air frier); - If you want to go for crazy engineering material this particular air fryer isn't really suited, the dehydrate mode goes up to 100°C or something like that, and only dehydrate mode can run continuously for hours. The air fry mode goes up to 90°C, and the next mode, the roast mode, starts at 120°C and can go up to just 4 hours. So you have a gap of 30°C and you have to stay there and re run it for a full cycle. Probably there's nothing better around, the real solution is probably to get a cheap air fryer and replace its brains with a raspberry or something like that and an SSR to run it in pid to whatever temperature you want.
Ahh, that's a bummer I am trying to find something that can do everything. Atleast you could still easily do PA6 with this model. There are tonnes of air fryer models out there, surely one of them gives you full access to temp and duration?
@@nehok Probably there are more flexible models, I have a Xiaomi in the kitchen (the one with the glass window) that can do more stuff, it even starts at 40°C. But it has a square container and for less than a cm a spool won't fit. But using a cheap air fryer and removing the electronics and replacing it with a raspberry and an SSR is an option imho
@@karellen00 yeah hacking it would be ideal but thats a whole bunch of extra work for most people. A side note if the dehydrate mode does go up to 100c then that is the bottom of the bracket recomended for pps cf and ppa cf so it may still work just take longer. Also, looking at the ninja air fryer max it looks to me like it would fit two spools. I dont have an air fryer and have never really looked into them for cooking so will do a bit more reseach about whats out there.
Nice vid, air fryer for drying filament isn't new and works surprisingly well. I just converted my dumb air fryer with esp32, two triacs and K-type thermocouple so i can watch control it precisely including fan speed which can be loud.
Orange silica gel has methyl violet, it might be worth it to consider changing to non-indicating silica gel since the air fryer is potentially blowing its dust into the air
@@TheWebgecko Noting is completely safe but if were comparing methyl violet dust to non-indicating silica dust, Non-indicating silica gel doesn’t have these additives, so it's safer to heat up and use in this way
@@polodog7458 Stephan at CNC kitchen suggested using a small percentage (like 3%) of indicating silica mixed with the non-indicating type. Since they dry at the same rate, you can still tell how dry all of the beads are. This way you can reduce the danger more than 20 fold.
I don't use silica gel any more I use Activated Alumina, it works better then the silica. Silica gel after saturated will release its moisture back into the air and defeat its purpose. I also use the Elegoo vacuum bags with a small bag of the Alumina that I made up from breathable fiber bags. The Alumina is also rechargeable like silica but holds more mositure then silica and won't release it back into the air once saturated.
I have a dehumidifier and put a bambu studios box on top of it with my filament rolls inside it. A few holes to allow the dry air to circulate inside the box and to pass the air back to the dehumidifier allows it to dry quite quickly. Super cheap if you already have a dehumidifier.
I do this often in a 6QT Instant Vortex Plus. It fits comfortably 1Kg spools (don’t know if it could fit 2Kg spools…it might without the raised platform but haven’t tested…it’s cooking some salmon right now, will check later) and also has a raised basket. In dehydrate mode, it can be set in the 35C- 79C range and in Air fryer mode the lowest that can be set is 82C, so it has the full range covered. Also has a glass window.
After looking at what was on offer, I felt compelled to make my own reliable four bay, hermetically sealed, auto-rotating temp/humidity controlled filament dryer, from a few spare things I had laying around, it's fixtures were all 3D printed. The total cost was negligible and the entire creation was slapped together in one evening, motivated by numerous reels of essentially unusable part-used filament! 😉 Necessity be the mother of invention. 👍
And I just threw one of those air fryers away! I knew I was going to regret that! But my daughter’s boyfriend has an air fryer so I guess he’ll be getting better use out of it!
The only thing I dislike about this is that air fryer is louder than a food dehydrator or filament dryer. It's not pleasant to run for 4,5 hours unless it can be in a separate room.
this is so great! but it makes me hate the build i just finished... a friend bought a vintage drying oven from a university auction for $5 and dropped it in my driveway with no notice. 😂 it needed modern controls but holds 30 spools. the thing is ridiculously large.
I keep 4 reels of filament along with some old arc welding rods in a plastic Ikea box with a cheap desiccant canister. After 6 months the air in the box is still around 25% humidity despite frequently accessing the reels for printing. There is no need for fancy filament driers. P.S. I live in Borneo where the average air humidity is 80% or more.
Which model Ninja did you use? Amazon sells a 4 qt, 5.5 qt XL and a 5.5 qt MAX. I have an Instant Vortex 6 V1 which doesn't have a dehydrate mode. Closest I can get is Reheat 120f and 1 hour.
Funny that i have the exact same air frier, and was gifted a bigger one. I have been thinking of a better use for the ninja and you just gave me the best one
I tested this 4 QT model today. I set it to 120F and after about 45 minutes, stabilized at 123F and stayed there within 1 degree F. That seems pretty good. The one thing that keeps it from being perfect is that there is no way to change the temp to be in C - which is rather annoying. It would cost them nothing to make it change temp modes by holding down the button for 5 seconds. Every other brand does this. Now I am testing the 5.5 qt model. The basket is taller, which is good. It has more cook modes, which is bad as you really only need about three for any use.
Hi Sam, very nice video! With PPA-CF you need to increase the temperature of the dehydrate function up to a temperature the dryer don't reach (mine goes up to 95°C).In other modes I'm time limited.... How did you set it up?
Something I have done recently which I would suggest is a good opportunity for testing would be to use Activated Alumina as desiccant. It will dry the filament out and can hold more water and is not toxic and wont break down like silica gel can. However unfortunately to dry it is a bit more annoying. It requires ~200c though i did read a paper recently about ultrasonic assistance so I think when I get time (and saturated Alumina) I will try cranking my ultrasonic cleaner up to max temp and blasting it as this apparently is more energy efficient.
Hey very cool, just a question though, could you measure for temperature accuracy on a wider range? 40 read 44 but how about 70? is the bias still 4°c ? or is it that your homesensor won't tolerate going this high?
Nice. Though I wonder how well it helps with the problem of filament drying where it can't dry the inner filament as well. The stronger airflow this creates probably helps a bit Vs a cheap filament drier. Though I think I'd try and take this idea and make a drier for drying the filament as it's printing. Build a tuber that the air fryer heats up and the filament then goes through the tube as it's being extruded. That way you know if you're doing long prints it's dehydrating the whole roll
Nice tip on the vacuuming ziplocks. Did You know there are printable enclosures for Your AMS lite? combining AMS and dessicant drying seems like a killer app to me
Very neat. It did look like the humidity was creeping up steadily in that snap-lock bag, I wonder if it gets better when you put another bag around the first one? Or put a chip bag clip over the bag’s opening? I’ll be experimenting with adding a bead of silicone around the rim of a plastic cereal container.
Here is the label I made for the top of the machine. This factors in that I tested three units and they all ran 3-5 degrees F too hot. The F temp is what to set the machine for. The C temp is adjusted to what it really will be. Ninja Filament Dryer 105F 42C (PLA, 8 hours) 120F 52C (PLA, 8 hours) 135F 60C (PETG, 8 hours) 150F 68C (PETG/TPU, 8 hours) 165F 75C (ASA/ABS, 8 hours) 170F 80C (ASA/ABS/PET/PA6/PC/PAHT, 8 hours) 185F 88C (PPA/PPS, 12 hours) 250F 120C (PPA/PPS, 8 hours) 275F 135C (Bambu PPA/PPS, 8 hours)
@@ericew Actually the benefit is reducing the amount of ordinary damp air (and thus moisture)** that gets sealed inside the bag. Once it is sealed, the pressure inside and outside will be equal (because the very flexible bag reduces the volume inside until the pressures balance.) ** the air is pretty damp during the English autumn! (Not such a problem in Arizona…)
Heh, I had the same idea and searched for ninja airfryers and 3d printer like a month back. Seems the algorithm does work suprisngly well sometimes. Thanks for sharing your results. Edit: although I was convinced you need the max (af160) version for the filament to fit without touching the side walls. Looks like the af100 manages afterall
Or you could just dry/regenerate you descant and use that to dry and keep you filament in a dry box, however still good to know that these air fry things keep good temperatures for other projects.
I've thought about doing the same. I think you could definitely do it with one of those Bowden tube thread things. I just might one day use this for cooking again so havent done it yet. Most of my prints are PLA plus
If you can't find an air fryer with dehumidifier setting, get yourself an STC-1000 temperature control module, and wire it inline to the heating element. This would let you use a cheaper air fryer, and have better control of the temperature.
The sad thing is you would have had 5 million views if you'd actually snorted the dessicant. Excellent vid. Can you do one to see if the chicken nuggets/ meat pies etc remnants in the air fryer/ dehydrator affect printing? It's a natural evolution of the series.........
I doubt that the desiccant in the bottom of the airfryer does much good, if the dry filament is removed without a long delay. There are lots of ways to set a reminder for yourself! And I would be concerned that the drying airblast would spread silica gel (and indicator) dust not only onto the filament, but more importantly into your living space (drying depends on the air inside being changed). That dust isn’t nice stuff to breathe. Having recently got an airfryer with a window, I was surprised to see just how fast the airflow is inside the thing - parchment lining paper blows around!
Wait, I don't know what you are talking about and I don't want to F my stuff or lungs up. How would the silica gel get out of the air fryer? Where can I go to learn more about silica gel and proper usage for 3d printing. Thanks.
@@gerber8915 Airfryers ‘work’ because of blowing hot air strongly. To dehydrate the airfryer contents, water vapour has to be moved to the outside. Accordingly they take in a little ’fresh’ air and blow out some of the damp air. Any filter on an airfryer (few have them) would be to trap grease not dust. So any dust from your silica gel is going to get blown around inside, and will come out in the exhaust air. Breathing dust from silica gel (and any colour change chemical with its own hazards) isn’t good for your lungs, though it might be less risky than smoking tobacco. As usual, it is the dosage that makes the poison. My concern is that there is absolutely no need whatsoever to put loose colour-changing silica gel inside the airfryer. The only reason given was the hope of keeping the filament thoroughly dry during the interval between the airfryer turning off and bagging the spool. Setting up any sort of reminder, (from an alarm clock to a smart watch) so you seal the spool away promptly when it is ready, takes away even that reason for using silica gel in the dehydrating airfryer. The risks may not be massive, but they are totally unnecessary. Silica gel and colour change chemical indicator hazards interteckpackaging.medium.com/is-it-safe-to-touch-silica-gel-what-will-happen-if-you-eat-silica-gel-63d34064ddf
@@dougal6569 alright, that was incredibly informative. My take away is to use the air fryer just to dehydrate the filament. I still think that it’s a good idea, but what do I know lol
According to Ninja website description: AF100 Series Ninja® Air Fryer SKUs AF101, AF100, AF100WMWH, AF100WMRD, AF100WMNV, AF101, AF101C, AF101CCO and AF101Q.
Added the models used into the description :)
@@heysamhillier thank you
hi, the air fryer how many liters? I see different versions on amazon
Cool. Could you also add the internal diameter and height of the tray so I can know if my filament rolls fit?
your next evolution step - dry hair in owen ?
@heysamhillier we need more data on this 🙂
What temperature range can you set the AF100 to in dehydration mode?
What filaments have you successfully dried with this method (type, temps, time)?
In the US the model he has is AF100. You can save a bit of money and get a simplified version at Walmart called an AF100WM($60 vs $80ish), that has less air fryer type functions, but still has the "Dehydrate" mode and temp/time settings.
Thx man! For the Europe people: its called AF100EU here and costs about 78€ right now :)
That desiccant holder looks nice. Please, add link to it into the description.
Pretty sure this video got recommended to me because of you :)
@@Splarkszter im also thinking this 😅
Eyyy!
@@Splarkszter Yeah thinking the same.
@MyTechFun fan of your channel. I can also highly recommend these at makersworld: "Filament Spool Dryer (for dry bags or boxes)" by Michael.tavel and "KYZ FF2 High Airflow Spool Desiccant Holder" by KYZ design. I used them in vaccuum sealed bags and theyre still dry a year later
You have a fun and entertaining way of presenting content. Glad this popped up in my feed. Keep up the great work!
That's a great idea! I was frustrated that regular filament dryers aren't a reliable option for high-grade engineering materials. I love the creativity; thanks for sharing!
He just made me buy an air fryer too. (I got the AF140, just because it's smaller and looks better than the AF100, it will still fit a filament spool nicely).
The filament spool just perfectly fits in there, as if it's made specifically for that purpose 😅
Damn random channel with 100 subs and a good video? How did i end up here? Great work.
Same here, but glad I did. I'm such a newbie and i'm learning a lot from these small channels. I don't get how the quality of the video is so good.
Algorithm brought me here too, nice vid! Likely to get a big bump.
Same here…randomly found as well.
I'm surprised more people don't talk about using air fryers for drying. Even CNC Kitchen's recent video didn't even consider it. I've been using one for nearly two years. It's faster and better than an oven in every way. Microwaves are fast but cause inevitable hot spots that damage dessicant and is just a bad idea for filament. The other advantage is all the air is ejected out of a small opening that could be used to monitor how much moisture is coming out.
I use a cheap, door style air fryer with a 150F-400F range. It has trays that are just a bit larger than a normal spool and being able to monitor through the glass is really convenient. It's also easier to use temperature probes if you need to keep an eye on it. I also saw a tiny air fryer at Aldi a couple months back for like $30 that would great for just drying dessicant.
I discounted the idea before due to them not being settable to lower. 150F is 65C, which is already too hot to dry PLA. This solves that due to the dehydrate mode.
@@rsilvers129 Well honestly a lot of PLA doesn't need much drying, I use it mostly for ABS/ASA, TPU and PETG. I've also found the actual temperature hitting the spool is lower and haven't had any issues but yes, dehydrate modes are helpful if you really need lower temps.
airfryers are useless for nylon and above. Timers too short or temperatures too low in dehydrating mode. Its kitchen oven or laboratory oven, nothing else.
@@bartman2395 Have you tried it? I haven't used it for anything above Nylon but at least for my unit it has worked perfectly fine for that. Plus the nature of air fryers blasting it with air seems to speed up the process.
i used ziplock bags for a few months, they work really well but i am really glad i bought a 100 litre ip67 rated storage tub. It can hold 32 open rolls and along with desicant holders in the centr of every roll i have about 1.5kg in bags aswell.
The tub sits at less than 10% humidity all the time and over a few days it will remove most of the moisture out of pla, abs, petg with out needing to use a dryer.
I use reusable vacuum bags to store my filament, basically just a Ziplock with a vacuum port.
"ok wtf just happened? our sales have gone thru the roof!'-ninja sales guy
Not really. They sell 30,000 of this one model a month just on Amazon alone, not even counting Walmart sales.
I really love the idea behind drying the filament with an airfryer!
Great video and thanks for using my retraction test :)
I saw this on a forum as well, and had the same Ninja Air Fryer. I was also surprised at how the perfectly the spools fit. Now I'm confident that its working properly, Thanks!
It's like the almost designed this for this purpose 😉
The quality of this video is so nice. Keep going. Your doing great!
Awesome, I had this idea in the shower and sure enough others did too! Thanks for the ideas and clear presentation
How do you know others had the idea in the shower as well? Were you watching me? 😂
I have the exact same air fryer. I recently upgraded to the Ninja mega bucket air fry and have been using the old one for drying filament. Works really well - its almost like the bucket was made specifically for filament spools!
what quart size is yours
I use the same air fryer to print from. Made an internal turn table with a bowden tube running down into my printer. Use it for PACF. Works great.
What model is this fryer?
I love this because I hate the obsession some people have with spending far too much money on dry storage for their filament and the filament dryers most companies are selling truly don't work the best. Also extremely well made video. Very funny. Definitely subbing.
Looks like the algo is delivering this channel to lots of folks. Subscribed and best of luck!
I use the same air fryer, it seems to be made for that task, the spools fit exactly! I'd add a couple of considerations:
- it has been said in the video, but I'll repeat it because it's very important and I think it wasn't said clearly enough. Make sure the air fryer has a dehydrate function, otherwise it's useless as it will start from 160°C and with 1h of maximum run time. This is important especially in the EU, where there are just a couple models available with dehydrate function;
- I don't like the idea of drying silica gel with filament: the first reason is that while it dries it will dump a lot of moisture (well, all that it adsorbed from the last dry!) making the drying of filament less effective or even giving more moisture to the filament. The second reason is that silica gel doesn't melt, so it can be dried very quickly at higher temperatures (or even just in the microwave where it comes off very moist outside, but with a quick dive in the air fryer will fix it; like 5 minutes in the microwave and 10 at 100°C in the air frier);
- If you want to go for crazy engineering material this particular air fryer isn't really suited, the dehydrate mode goes up to 100°C or something like that, and only dehydrate mode can run continuously for hours. The air fry mode goes up to 90°C, and the next mode, the roast mode, starts at 120°C and can go up to just 4 hours. So you have a gap of 30°C and you have to stay there and re run it for a full cycle. Probably there's nothing better around, the real solution is probably to get a cheap air fryer and replace its brains with a raspberry or something like that and an SSR to run it in pid to whatever temperature you want.
Ahh, that's a bummer I am trying to find something that can do everything. Atleast you could still easily do PA6 with this model. There are tonnes of air fryer models out there, surely one of them gives you full access to temp and duration?
@@nehok Probably there are more flexible models, I have a Xiaomi in the kitchen (the one with the glass window) that can do more stuff, it even starts at 40°C. But it has a square container and for less than a cm a spool won't fit. But using a cheap air fryer and removing the electronics and replacing it with a raspberry and an SSR is an option imho
@@karellen00 yeah hacking it would be ideal but thats a whole bunch of extra work for most people.
A side note if the dehydrate mode does go up to 100c then that is the bottom of the bracket recomended for pps cf and ppa cf so it may still work just take longer. Also, looking at the ninja air fryer max it looks to me like it would fit two spools.
I dont have an air fryer and have never really looked into them for cooking so will do a bit more reseach about whats out there.
Brilliant ideas and brilliant presentation (humour)
Nice vid, air fryer for drying filament isn't new and works surprisingly well. I just converted my dumb air fryer with esp32, two triacs and K-type thermocouple so i can watch control it precisely including fan speed which can be loud.
Excellent video mate. I love it. We need more of this :)
Orange silica gel has methyl violet, it might be worth it to consider changing to non-indicating silica gel since the air fryer is potentially blowing its dust into the air
Can you please elaborate on this? Is non-indicating silica gel completely safe to heat up? How much safer? Ty for sharing :)
@@TheWebgecko Noting is completely safe but if were comparing methyl violet dust to non-indicating silica dust, Non-indicating silica gel doesn’t have these additives, so it's safer to heat up and use in this way
@@polodog7458 Stephan at CNC kitchen suggested using a small percentage (like 3%) of indicating silica mixed with the non-indicating type. Since they dry at the same rate, you can still tell how dry all of the beads are. This way you can reduce the danger more than 20 fold.
@@yeroca That's an excellent idea, thank you for the suggestion.
I don't use silica gel any more I use Activated Alumina, it works better then the silica. Silica gel after saturated will release its moisture back into the air and defeat its purpose. I also use the Elegoo vacuum bags with a small bag of the Alumina that I made up from breathable fiber bags. The Alumina is also rechargeable like silica but holds more mositure then silica and won't release it back into the air once saturated.
nice looks like my never used air fryer has a basket that is perfect size as well. and its got the dehydrate mode. score!
I have a dehumidifier and put a bambu studios box on top of it with my filament rolls inside it. A few holes to allow the dry air to circulate inside the box and to pass the air back to the dehumidifier allows it to dry quite quickly.
Super cheap if you already have a dehumidifier.
I have an unhinged love air fryers and 3D printing... now to source that ninja one!
I do this often in a 6QT Instant Vortex Plus. It fits comfortably 1Kg spools (don’t know if it could fit 2Kg spools…it might without the raised platform but haven’t tested…it’s cooking some salmon right now, will check later) and also has a raised basket. In dehydrate mode, it can be set in the 35C- 79C range and in Air fryer mode the lowest that can be set is 82C, so it has the full range covered. Also has a glass window.
Not all heroes wear capes, and you, sir, are my hero today!
This is a very helpful video and answering the questions in my head going on for about weeks now.
After looking at what was on offer, I felt compelled to make my own reliable four bay, hermetically sealed, auto-rotating temp/humidity controlled filament dryer, from a few spare things I had laying around, it's fixtures were all 3D printed. The total cost was negligible and the entire creation was slapped together in one evening, motivated by numerous reels of essentially unusable part-used filament! 😉 Necessity be the mother of invention. 👍
And I just threw one of those air fryers away! I knew I was going to regret that! But my daughter’s boyfriend has an air fryer so I guess he’ll be getting better use out of it!
I love your fan as well.
Thanks for the video! I love that floor fan that oscillates. Can you share the brand/ model number? Thanks!
Nice! I see there is a "max" of this design, I wonder if it will hold two spools.
The only thing I dislike about this is that air fryer is louder than a food dehydrator or filament dryer. It's not pleasant to run for 4,5 hours unless it can be in a separate room.
This video was really informative and straight to the point, thank you. We need more creators like you.
PS: absolutely love the sticky notes.
this is so great!
but it makes me hate the build i just finished... a friend bought a vintage drying oven from a university auction for $5 and dropped it in my driveway with no notice. 😂 it needed modern controls but holds 30 spools.
the thing is ridiculously large.
I keep 4 reels of filament along with some old arc welding rods in a plastic Ikea box with a cheap desiccant canister. After 6 months the air in the box is still around 25% humidity despite frequently accessing the reels for printing. There is no need for fancy filament driers. P.S. I live in Borneo where the average air humidity is 80% or more.
Which model Ninja did you use? Amazon sells a 4 qt, 5.5 qt XL and a 5.5 qt MAX. I have an Instant Vortex 6 V1 which doesn't have a dehydrate mode. Closest I can get is Reheat 120f and 1 hour.
If you look at the layout of the buttons on his unit it matches the 4 qt model.
Funny that i have the exact same air frier, and was gifted a bigger one. I have been thinking of a better use for the ninja and you just gave me the best one
Interesting. And probably more efficient than a full sized oven.
The temperature control will be much better (tighter) than an ordinary oven thermostat would provide.
I've been using mine for a while with much success.
I tested this 4 QT model today. I set it to 120F and after about 45 minutes, stabilized at 123F and stayed there within 1 degree F. That seems pretty good. The one thing that keeps it from being perfect is that there is no way to change the temp to be in C - which is rather annoying. It would cost them nothing to make it change temp modes by holding down the button for 5 seconds. Every other brand does this.
Now I am testing the 5.5 qt model. The basket is taller, which is good. It has more cook modes, which is bad as you really only need about three for any use.
I’m using an incandescent bulb placed just before the filament intake, seems working
Hi Sam, very nice video! With PPA-CF you need to increase the temperature of the dehydrate function up to a temperature the dryer don't reach (mine goes up to 95°C).In other modes I'm time limited.... How did you set it up?
Something I have done recently which I would suggest is a good opportunity for testing would be to use Activated Alumina as desiccant. It will dry the filament out and can hold more water and is not toxic and wont break down like silica gel can. However unfortunately to dry it is a bit more annoying. It requires ~200c though i did read a paper recently about ultrasonic assistance so I think when I get time (and saturated Alumina) I will try cranking my ultrasonic cleaner up to max temp and blasting it as this apparently is more energy efficient.
Great video. Subscribing. Loved the post it notes as titled. Clever
Hey very cool, just a question though, could you measure for temperature accuracy on a wider range? 40 read 44 but how about 70? is the bias still 4°c ? or is it that your homesensor won't tolerate going this high?
Nice. Though I wonder how well it helps with the problem of filament drying where it can't dry the inner filament as well. The stronger airflow this creates probably helps a bit Vs a cheap filament drier.
Though I think I'd try and take this idea and make a drier for drying the filament as it's printing. Build a tuber that the air fryer heats up and the filament then goes through the tube as it's being extruded. That way you know if you're doing long prints it's dehydrating the whole roll
Nice tip on the vacuuming ziplocks. Did You know there are printable enclosures for Your AMS lite? combining AMS and dessicant drying seems like a killer app to me
Very neat. It did look like the humidity was creeping up steadily in that snap-lock bag, I wonder if it gets better when you put another bag around the first one? Or put a chip bag clip over the bag’s opening? I’ll be experimenting with adding a bead of silicone around the rim of a plastic cereal container.
Here is the label I made for the top of the machine. This factors in that I tested three units and they all ran 3-5 degrees F too hot. The F temp is what to set the machine for. The C temp is adjusted to what it really will be.
Ninja Filament Dryer
105F 42C (PLA, 8 hours)
120F 52C (PLA, 8 hours)
135F 60C (PETG, 8 hours)
150F 68C (PETG/TPU, 8 hours)
165F 75C (ASA/ABS, 8 hours)
170F 80C (ASA/ABS/PET/PA6/PC/PAHT, 8 hours)
185F 88C (PPA/PPS, 12 hours)
250F 120C (PPA/PPS, 8 hours)
275F 135C (Bambu PPA/PPS, 8 hours)
What was the humidity the "wet" roll was subjected to before the test?
i was looking to buy the 5qt ninja. how many inches diameter is the bowl with the handle to put your filament in?
Wouldn't vacuuming the bag increase the pressure for air to enter the bag over the long haul?
@@ericew Actually the benefit is reducing the amount of ordinary damp air (and thus moisture)** that gets sealed inside the bag. Once it is sealed, the pressure inside and outside will be equal (because the very flexible bag reduces the volume inside until the pressures balance.)
** the air is pretty damp during the English autumn! (Not such a problem in Arizona…)
I just bought a West Bend Air Fryer at Sam's Club for $50. It can heat as low as 90F and for as long as 16 hours.
I use a simple straw to vacuum my bags of filament. It's a lot easier!
Damn that's a good video, next time I see your channel you'll be in the 100k's! Until then other cool apron guy.
i tried to do this before but mine wouldnt fit
that's proper clever. Will try!
Which temperature and humidity sensor did you use in the video?
What is that fan though? That looks neat
i wish you could make PCBs in it too! I want one now :O
Heh, I had the same idea and searched for ninja airfryers and 3d printer like a month back. Seems the algorithm does work suprisngly well sometimes. Thanks for sharing your results.
Edit: although I was convinced you need the max (af160) version for the filament to fit without touching the side walls. Looks like the af100 manages afterall
great vid, keep going on !!!
What is thr fancy fan called?
its a dreo standing fan!
Excellent video. I am probably gonna get one of those instead of the crappy purpose built dryers.
Regarding your PC monitor … Did you make a DIY Samsung Serif TV or did you make custom stand for a real one? Either way, love it, looks great!
Nevermind … I just saw that you actually have a video about it 😂👍
Great video and great ideas! Way to go!
Or you could just dry/regenerate you descant and use that to dry and keep you filament in a dry box, however still good to know that these air fry things keep good temperatures for other projects.
And the desiccant, once humid, doubles as Ikura for your sushi 🍣
my problem is that I can't print directly from this. maybe I can drill a hole into it?
I've thought about doing the same. I think you could definitely do it with one of those Bowden tube thread things. I just might one day use this for cooking again so havent done it yet. Most of my prints are PLA plus
could i still use the airfryer as normal? after cleaning?
Is that the 4qt ninja?
Great video 👍🏻
Ima need the link to that fan
If you can't find an air fryer with dehumidifier setting, get yourself an STC-1000 temperature control module, and wire it inline to the heating element. This would let you use a cheaper air fryer, and have better control of the temperature.
First video I've seen with a guy talking to a Tribble...!
Now put some yellow PLA filament in there and make some tasty air fried french fries with it.
what were those ikea zip lock bags? time to go look for them
Fill the bag with dry nitrogen before sealing. In fact, do a triple evacuation with nitrogen and the spot vacuum cleaner.
Gems ✨
great video!!
You should watch the CNC Kitchen video, it's exactly about the same topic
Nice
The sad thing is you would have had 5 million views if you'd actually snorted the dessicant. Excellent vid. Can you do one to see if the chicken nuggets/ meat pies etc remnants in the air fryer/ dehydrator affect printing? It's a natural evolution of the series.........
This was great - thanks!
Great Video. Can u Share the model of the spool dessicant holder?
Is wet filament common or something? I never had an issue with any filament ive bought lol
Which zip bags are you using
Whant an ending 👌
Excellent
brb printing my 3d eye after eating nuggies
I have been using ninja grill for this purpose 😁. The size is bigger can fit any spool size
I doubt that the desiccant in the bottom of the airfryer does much good, if the dry filament is removed without a long delay. There are lots of ways to set a reminder for yourself!
And I would be concerned that the drying airblast would spread silica gel (and indicator) dust not only onto the filament, but more importantly into your living space (drying depends on the air inside being changed). That dust isn’t nice stuff to breathe.
Having recently got an airfryer with a window, I was surprised to see just how fast the airflow is inside the thing - parchment lining paper blows around!
Wait, I don't know what you are talking about and I don't want to F my stuff or lungs up. How would the silica gel get out of the air fryer? Where can I go to learn more about silica gel and proper usage for 3d printing. Thanks.
@@gerber8915 Airfryers ‘work’ because of blowing hot air strongly.
To dehydrate the airfryer contents, water vapour has to be moved to the outside. Accordingly they take in a little ’fresh’ air and blow out some of the damp air.
Any filter on an airfryer (few have them) would be to trap grease not dust.
So any dust from your silica gel is going to get blown around inside, and will come out in the exhaust air.
Breathing dust from silica gel (and any colour change chemical with its own hazards) isn’t good for your lungs, though it might be less risky than smoking tobacco. As usual, it is the dosage that makes the poison.
My concern is that there is absolutely no need whatsoever to put loose colour-changing silica gel inside the airfryer. The only reason given was the hope of keeping the filament thoroughly dry during the interval between the airfryer turning off and bagging the spool. Setting up any sort of reminder, (from an alarm clock to a smart watch) so you seal the spool away promptly when it is ready, takes away even that reason for using silica gel in the dehydrating airfryer.
The risks may not be massive, but they are totally unnecessary.
Silica gel and colour change chemical indicator hazards interteckpackaging.medium.com/is-it-safe-to-touch-silica-gel-what-will-happen-if-you-eat-silica-gel-63d34064ddf
@@dougal6569 alright, that was incredibly informative. My take away is to use the air fryer just to dehydrate the filament. I still think that it’s a good idea, but what do I know lol
What is the Ninja airfryer model called?
AF101
what size in Quarts/Liters?
According to Ninja website description: AF100 Series Ninja® Air Fryer SKUs AF101, AF100, AF100WMWH, AF100WMRD, AF100WMNV, AF101, AF101C, AF101CCO and AF101Q.
AF100 and AF101 are the same product. AF 101 includes a Stainless-Steel Multi-Layer Rack and a recipe book with more pages.
@@antonio.zanella So all the same size? Just pick the cheapest if only for drying filament and silica
your house is such wood bro
hmmmm, that whas usefull
thanks
nice video man, well editied and funny
What air fryer is that?