Buckin’ Billy - - - love your videos, and watch them a lot. You guys forget something regarding the 70+cc saws. For us older guys, particularly those with longtime, troublesome shoulder, or upper arm injuries, it’s VERY difficult, if not impossible for us to crank a 70cc saw. So, we use a smaller saw that we can handle - - rather than quit. I’m 80 years old, started running saws in 1953, when I was 10 - - - and I’m not ready to quit, so I use something in the mid-50cc range. Keep up the good work.
I got a 20" bar on my 362. Always loved it. I also got a 31" bar at home but never used it so far. I'll give it a try. My mother in law always used long bars on her Husquvarnas, just for the benefit of standing upright. Well, I must admit it has its benefits. Greetings from the land of explosive trees. P.S.: The oiler on my 362 runs the chain dry as a fart. With 20". I am upgrading it a piston from a 460 US model.
Hey Buckin', when I was growing up one of our neighbors who lived through the woods from us about 4 miles worked at the sawmill sawing logs. He was a big man, about 6'5'' and carried the biggest Stihl saw I had ever seen with a 5-6' bar on it! His name was Jesse Chriscoe ( he was a wonderful man like you). This was in the late '60's - early '70's. Almost everyone burned wood then and hardly anyone I knew had a saw with a 20'' bar. McCullochs and Homelites were the dominant saws! Great video and info! From Sophia, N.C. USA
Billy Ray.. thank you man.. I have been watching and learning from a great teacher. Today I cut down 8 of my trees. I got them to fall where I needed them to go and I bucked them without killing my back. Best of all, I did a trick cut with a double wedge that rotated the tree on its base 90 degrees as it tipped and fell. That allowed the limbs to untangle from another tree and avoid powerlines..you are the best..
and that's exactly why I run a 32" bar on my MS 362 CARBURETED VERSION I also have a bark box on it, and a WC Saws Foam Air Filter.....I do run Full Skip Chisel Bit chain, and it RIPS !....I did buy the Stihl ES Light bar, which helps with the balance of the longer bar, and it's truely a joy to run.....I'm 75 now, and bending over is not much of an option any more ... I'm an old Orygun Faller and still enjoy the saws.....OnWard.....
Spot on my friend, my 362" is set up very similar and I love it. Been looking at the new MS400 as a nice upgrade in power but with nearly the same size an weight.
I have the 362 M tronic run the West Coast Bark Box and their air filtration system. I either run a 25” or a 20” due to cutting in tight places but all upright! I’m 63 and those days of bent over are long gone and it just doesn’t make sense for chains I run a full skip chisel sharp but I m always reaching for my 036 Pro as it’s way more torque to me.
This is a west coast mindset for sure. Ohio arborist that runs a 362, 461, and a 661 on the ground on a regular basis. I wouldn’t even think of putting longer than a 20” bar on my 362. I’ll run up to a 28 on the 461, but I’m not putting anything over 30” on any saw but the 661.
I’m curious as to why you capitalized “carbureted version”? Does the bar size make a difference on that particular model vs the m-tronic? I’ve been eyeing the 362 and/or 462 but am stuck on whether m-tonic is worth it or not. If I’m gonna spend money I wanna make sure I get the best bang for my buck and have the best setup.
@@rogerpowers3891 I recently bought some land and a new double wide that’s getting built. And I have never owned a chainsaw, now that I own a full wooded lot, I need one. I’m getting a carbureted model Stihl MS362, the main reason why is so I can tune the high speed and low speed needles my self. They are quick and easy to access, and it’s super easy. I have been back and forward all the time on the Mtronic models. I want to get an Mtronic, but look at the old saws in this video. Do you really want to go adding all these electronics to a chain saw? It’s another point of failure. I couldn’t find a consistent answer on Mtronic or non Mtronic. So I read the Stihl reviews on Stihl’s website, most of all the bad reviews “Very few bad reviews” are from people complaining about the Mtronic system. The chances are slim, but they are there. This saw MS362 saw brand new is like $900 bucks plus taxes. So $962 range out the door. We need it to just work and run without issues. I’d love to go Mtronic but I’m just not sure.
Billy great video , i started running saw when i was 12 i am 63 now and need a new hip and have had two back surgery's , but i still run saw because i love it , last year i got a husky 562 xp with a 24 in bar great saw i was running a 044 mag stihl with a 28 in bar before that , great advice on running a longer bar ,it will save your back and the more you can stand up and not have to bend over all the time the better ,i run saw in northern idaho . like you i always watch the tip of the saw . God bless
You know I’ve never really given Stihl a chance but recently picked up a 361 and built a muffler for it. So far I’m extremely happy with it. Gotta get a 28” bar for it and really put it to work.
Ya Buckin' I run a 362" it's a great saw but I agree with you on it's drawbacks 100%. If your gonna pack that much weight might as well just go up a 70-90cc instead. The weight difference is insignificant, but the power and bar length is huge. Great review!
Buckin. As always your spot on with all the information. I thank you for everything you have taught me through this channel. Ive cut down trees that I normally wood have walked away from. But because of you and what I’ve learned I have made a few more stumps. Keep it coming. ❤
In this case he is not right with ALL his information regarding oiling. He is ~75% right about the oiler. If in large wood all the time, you need more oil otherwise the chain/bar load up with sawdust and JAMS and you have to continually clear it and likewise do not get oil to your tip bearing at end of bar causing heat/wear/jamming. Now 90% of everyone is NOT in large wood and never see this problem. This is essentially a bucking into firewood problem only in LARGE wood. Fallers will not see this problem. Likewise if you are in SMALL wood all the time, pouring expensive oil all over creation is also DUMB and a waste of $$$ and why you want to squeeze down your oiler on your larger saw if you know you will be running in a lot of small stuff. Most guys just have a smaller saw which comes from the factory... squeezed down and likewise never see this problem. Next point is if you use USED gear/transmission/engine oil(run it through a filter first). I do and therefore have to open my oiler up wider as it is LESS tacky than the commercial bar oil. Differences between transmission/engine oil necessitate this as well. But at ~$20/gallon oil currently, this saves a LOT of $$$.
You've given me a new perspective on sawing with longer bar with more power = stand up and save your back, I've been thinking about it all wrong with going light as possible with shorter bar
Jeeze I didn’t even realize the camera work until Buck’n said something. Thank you Kevin! I say thank you because your camera work was so good, I was “sucked” into the video so much I don’t think I blinked one time in 10min😄 Your distance, focus, everything was better than most videos I’ve seen👍 Really good job…..I mean it😉 Thanks again 🙂
I have run this as my primary saw with a 28” thin Kerf cannon super mini bar for 8 years in hardwoods. It took me three years to track down a OEM wrap handle for it but I finally found one. I also did the bark box and wcs dogs on it. Been a great saw. For anything it can’t handle I run an 881 with a 41” bar. They say that the 362 has the highest power to weight ratio of any Stihl prior to the ms500… I believe it.
Did you get the longer clutch cover as well? Stihl sells a package with the 3/4 wrap, double dogs, roller chain catcher and longer clutch cover and chip deflector. Ordered through my dealer $150ish with tax in Europe.
You make an excellent point regarding going with the 70CC saw versus the smaller 362. In the lieutenant's barn , the shortest bar now is a 24"!!!! Love you all..❤❤❤ Lieutenant Bradley
I do trail work so am regularly spend more time carrying a saw more than I cut with it. Many folks go with the 261 and an 18" bar for weight, but for me, I like the 362 with a 20". Definitely worth the extra pound or two when you hit those oaks that need double barring. I will often run a 28" on it for limbing and bucking for exactly the reasons you demonstrate. If I am not hiking, the 660 with a 36" is always fun to run.
@@everythingnerd7168 Depends on where you are at. I work with a hiking group called Carolina Mountain Club. But there are also groups for mountain bikers and horse back riders that do similiar work. I used to work for the US Forest Service so already had the sawyer certs so it was easy to jump in.
@@BenKickert I didnt even know they offered certifications. I am on the east coast but most of the trails I would volunteer on are national forest land. There is also a lot of state land around here. How do you get those certifications? I just looked at the usda and nwcg websites. I am a little confused now
@@everythingnerd7168 Call your local Forest Service ranger district and ask about volunteer trail work opportunities. My training and cert was done by USFS but is recognized for when I work on NPS land. But, I can only work on those public lands because the organization I volunteer with has an MOU with those agencies.
Hey Buckin' thanks for all the great advice! I just bought a used 272 with a 32" bar from guy who does saw and other small engine repair in Oregon. It should show up in about a week. I'm excited. Oh, and earlier today I bucked (with my little Stihl 250) a 16" tulip poplar that had wind fallen across a little ravine on the property. I used your wedge trick to get the two ends safely on the ground. Thank you!
I have run 28" bars for cutting fire wood for many years, last year I bought the same saw as yours with 28". IAM 6'2" tall with long arms standing upright with arms down in a comfortable position the bar tip just miss the ground. You'll love it
Hey Bucking and hello to the bucking army as well hope you all are having a great day today. Staying warm out there on this brisk fall afternoon be safe be happy and be kind everyone viking out.
Thanks for another great video, BBR! It’s a bright part of my day when we get a new video from ya! Cannot wait to run my 372xp with 24” bar! It’s my first saw… I’m a little late to the game at 46 yrs old, hahaha!
I bought a brand new 362 wrap with 24” light bar, really nice saw, torquey for its size. Only down sides I see is the anti vibe and stringer handle aren’t as well designed as a husky especially the 500 series that I’m most used too. Oil and fuel holes tend to let in more debris too but that’s very minor.
I’m actually approaching the point of ditching the 59cc 361 and going the next step up as a go to ground saw. I’m not convinced that it’s actually necessary. I think I may just want an excuse to buy a new saw, but realistically the difference you get in power for just a couple extra pounds is a big deal. I haven’t thought much about whether I stand or kneel more than the other. I’m not real tall, so a 20 inch bar does pretty well, and I can buck medium to small logs while standing. I actually buck starting on the side of the log typically with the top of the bar, and that’s how I learned to feel the tip. Best thing I ever did was watch Jacob Wolfinger buck some logs…watched and learned. Great stuff, Billy Ray
For what it's worth, a 462 or 500i have the best power to weight of any of the stihl saws. I've gotten to work with a 500i and they cut like a dream, snappy power. I still love my 661 though.
I ran a 346 for years and learned to have a spare oiler that I changed on the back of a pickup many times, great saw. Now I am getting into this long bar thing and I like it, but for a long while a 14 inch bar was all you could get, anything else had to be ordered in. With this hurricane damage I have been running bigger saws, everything goes faster, I like it. Our wood here is shorter and smaller in the plantations mostly because we are catering to pulp mills, species and conditions play a role too, but there is big wood out there in private wood lots I've cut 70 to 90 foot trees in Nova Scotia on private land, crown land has been cut over constantly, so you won't find it there.
My MS362 definitely needed an upgraded oiler. I put a 461 oiler in it as soon as I bought it, because even a 0.050" gauge 16" bar and chain was overheating due to lack of oil in 12" oak. Now the oiler can be turned down a little with a 25" 0.063" gauge bar. That 362 you have looks like it has been ported and modified looking at the way it cuts. One of these days I may get mine ported. I really don't do a whole lot of cutting like you do. Keep up the great work and thanks for the video.
@@michaelluft2732 What is your oil used??? If you are using commercial super expensive tacky oil @$20/gallon, you are right. If on the other hand you are using cheaper less tacky bar oil from say... Walmart or free used oil, then no, you are not right. At ~$20/gallon of commercial bar oil, one has to be dumb to not use used(filtered) oil which is free. This necessitates opening up the oiler as it is less tacky. Especially in larger wood when bucking. Likewise more oil = longer lasting bars which are by themselves ~$100. For these reasons, I will only buy saws with ability to vary the oiler away from VERY expensive tacky commercial oil.
I ran a 362 with 28 inch bar for wood and fire prevention up until I could no longer walk due to my spine. I grew up PNW and did some professional work as well. The extra length saves a lot of back if you have a working noodle. The issue with the late model 362’s oilers is that they WERE(don’t know if they still are) restricted. Most of the stock ones can be modified to run properly.
@@OOOOOO12345 its been a while and im on a few pain killers so work with me and check out some forums as well. From what I remember doing to mine you can drill out the “outlet” of the oiler. I picked a bit that was the same size as another one of my saws oilers. I think it was 1/16 larger. But do not quote me on that. And i cant remember if it was mine or another from around the same time but the screw head fit into the plastics with a keyed fit. So it physically kept you from going too low or too high. Meaning you can replace that screw or modify with a file/dremel so you can simply turn it further. Very similar to some you find on carb adjust screws. Also just to point out. They moved the lil screw from where you would assume. Its way in there. Good luck
Perhaps only Aussies will get this but I have a 362 and a 660 magnum. Up to about 20" the 362 is a fantastic grunty saw and I'm very happy with it. But a lot of Aussie hardwood trunks have very thick stringy bark that can overwhelm the lubricant available in the bar. It will just dry out and lock up. So that's when I use the 660. Never had the bar freeze up on me with the 660. I don't think there is anything wrong with the oil pump on the 362 but it does have its limits on Aussie timbers.
Ive run my 362 for a few years with a 25" bar and full chisel in mostly oak and ash. In stock form it will pull that pretty decently but after I put a Bark Box and a better air filter on the saw it really woke it up. I have considered putting a 32 or even a 36 on this saw with a half skip for some of the big trunks we see from time to time. Ive found as long as I keep the RPMs up on this saw, but will cut pretty good. But the most important thing, I know how to sharpen a chain. My Dad taught me how to file, but seeing some of the stuff Buckin does really changed how I sharpen now.
I have done a 32" full skip buried in oak and you are right it will cut reasonably well but I think that is all it wants. You can't stop in the middle of the cut and restart you have to lift it up off the bottom of the kerf a bit and get it spooled up before putting it back into the wood but let it self feed.
Hey BBR! love your content! I'm in Michigan along the the shores of Lake Michigan so conditions here are quite different my friend. I see videos and I have been to dozens of safety shows, conferences and field operations. There's always a speaker who was a victim of some sort of accident and they really get on the bandwagon about safety practices and PPE. "Don't do what I did", is always their message, often they were severely injured or maimed for life. I wish there were more SME's (subjects matter experts) who weren't victims, who followed safe practices, used their PPE and were diligent and good at their craft, not just lucky. Friend I see you wearing Chainsaw pants which is great, BUT I sure would like to see some eye and hearing protection. Please don't take this as criticism, as I think you're awesome and I've learned some great things through your channel. May God continue to bless you with provision and protection, grace, mercy and answered prayers! Safe in , Safe out brother!
Although it’s not a pro grade saw, my MS 390 Farm Boss has been a beast for my needs. I bought it used 7 years ago for $270. I replaced the bar and chain with a 20” Rollomatic, and a full chisel chain. I modded the muffler and raised the rpm limit 500 rpms to 13,500. It’s a 64cc, slightly more than the 59cc 360-362 saws. It’s a pound heavier than the 360-362 saws and holds a little less fuel, but it’s a damn good saw, and has given me years of great performance, cutting mostly locust, cherry, maple, and ash, here in western PA. Just saying that for those that can’t afford a prograde saw, the MS 390-391-392 is an excellent option. Probably would be capable of driving a 28” too, although modding the muffler or air intake might be in order.
I recently bought the 400 (67cc), it’s a big bore 362. Anyway it came with a 20” bar and I have been debating on a 25 or 28. I hear that it doesn’t pull a 28” bar, but if you only use half the bar I don’t see why it wouldn’t. That’s a lot of money to spend to be disappointed, I may try to borrow a bar before I buy one. Thanks for all your help and experience you share.
I remember when I was a Wild land firefighter, I would help the sawyer. He would carry a MS 362 and it worked great. So that's what I bought, I have been using it since, Its a great saw.
Hey Buckin’ Thanks for sharing your information about the Stihl 362. Being a Stihl man I have been contemplating on whether I should buy a 362 or 462. Thank you for sharing your thoughts about the 362 and the advantages of running a 70 plus cc saw. I now know that spending the few extras dollars and getting 70 cc plus saw will be worth the extra cash. Stay safe, be kind and love always wins ❤️🌲🪵🪓
I run a 362 now and was considering going to a 462 as well since they stopped making the 461 which was a wonderful bulletproof saw. But then I saw they just came out with the MS400. Look into the MS400 first I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
Love the 2 stroke crackle n brap. Gotta ask, seen it a few times when you shut off various saws, whats the purpose of holding the pull cord out 6-8in when shutting down?
My heavens that P42 works great!..she sounds amazing!…I have a 362 and she’s a runner!..I have a 440 and she will hang with the 440 any day of the week!!
Run a 28” on my 372 Xp and a 24 inch bar on my 572 ...always stand up as much as possible and do lean into the knotty ones too...shake blocking for years makes for proficient bucking .I do a lot of the things you do but I still learn lots from watching you ..and I enjoy it...that’s what it is about ..your recent trip looked awesome ...Thanks for all you do there...cheers ...oh and here comes de rain...
10:40 I have a ms363c-m with a 25” bar and it oils more then needed when turned to max. I turned it down otherwise it’s just pissing extra oil right out the bar where it enters it. I have it 70-80% open and it works great for a 25”
Ding Ding... but commercial boys just pass the costs along to the customer as they are more worried about getting the job done without hurting anything in the yard while making things pretty again rather than trying to save $1-->$10 of oil.
Nice video. My dad and uncle both logged. I like to run a 28. It seems to fit me perfect. I have 33 inch and it just little to long for me. I never have understood people and these 20 inch bars. I totally agree a 70 cc is the best not to heavy but good power.
I run a 361 and an 038 Mag. With the 361 wearing a 24" bar and the 038 wears a 30". Very noticeable weight difference but the newer 70cc saws are lighter than mine. Need to probably upgrade from 038 Mag to a 660/661 to pull that 30 in the mostly Maple, Ash, and Oak trees i cut. The power difference from 60 to 72cc's is surprising even on the older 038mag and really shows up in hard woods. I see the 361 as my big in tree saw where a few lbs especially for smaller guys like myself can add up. Ive had the 038 working out of bucket truck and its a pain to reach out far with.
I run a 28 inch bar on my 362 . On the 362 you can increase the amount of oil by removing a small cover under the saw and turning the screw . I would recommend turning it up for the 28 inch bar .the 20 inch bar that came on the saw oiled perfectly but when running the 28 inch bar it really needs to be turned up.
That sucks hitting steel in a tree. One time I cut right through a bullet that was stuck in the wood. Didnt do near the damage as steel. Thanks for another awsome video. Good day to everyone!!
Buckin' you are a man amongst men! Love your kindness mentality and all your rockin saws! Wondering if you've ran a stihl 400 yet? I'd love to see a video on that to see your opinion! Keep on rockin cool guy!
That’s aswome billy you don’t even need a mingo marker or ruler lol to cut your firewood. I still need some work with that lol . I talk to Ted aka the saw surgeon told him I was using my left hand to use axe . Great videos Daniel Luther I am one of the super chatter . How do I order a bullet .? Well you take axe heads in trade for one lol . Your firewood game back in the day look great from the pics you post . I am working on getting some of my firewood sold . Plus working on my firewood production.Thanks Daniel
Thanks for the insights! I've been enjoying so many things from you. Especially about treating people right. Hey, I'm looking for a new bar for my Johnsered 2065, and looking at a 28" for the 1st time. I've had 20's on it since new, several of them. Do you have a preference on chain width? I've been running the .050 chain for years. And also will be doing some milling on an Alaskan mill on occasion. Any insights on .050 or heavier chain in a longer bar setup? And do you have chain manufacturer preference? Thanks
Great video, but I saw one thing that really didn't like I'm a retired arborist and back in the '90s I was cutting up a big elm log with a 046 with a 32-in bar, Unlike you did at the beginning with no hand on the top of the saw, I did have a hand but my arm was not locked, about halfway through the log there was a big spike my chain hit it and kick it back and luckily for me that I had my hand on it it caught the chain break just as it cut me, went to the hospital and got 16 stitches so that's why I hate to see anybody cutting a log in that way ; because you don't know what's in there.
Hey Bucking Billy Ray love the old mcculloch chainsaws and your very knowledgeable about trees I want to thank you for being a great guy. I also have a Question for you what chainsaw do you recommend for big hardwood trees 3 feet and up please reply your friend Bruce
You can adjust oil flow on some models of stihl on bottom there is a flat head screw with a E n a line showing which way to turn to increase or decrease oil flow for different size bars Mostly on the Pro series saws but some none pro's have them husqvarna has adjustable oilers to behind oiler plate there is a small screw number 1 to 4 to increase decrease the Timman has a video on his channel showing it not sure if all husqvarna have them or not
Awesome video Buckin, your right 100% I have a 661 with 28” bar and I feel a lot better in my back then using a 22” on my 372. Love the jack Nicholas moment mate 😂.
alot of husky buddies are switching from the 562 to that saw... unrelated but found an old walters double bit axe, taken out of the ground from an old timers site today. Great find.
I’m currently hot rodding a ms290 with 390 barrel etc and hoping it will take a 25-28inch bar for exactly this ….. also most oilers can just be turned up to give more oil
I love the sound of your saws when you bang them full throttle. That chain freaked me out a little bit though with the chain being loose (for me) on the bar. That sound though...RAAWK RAAAAAWK!! Stand up and buck! If you do a mod to the muffler to let it flow more freely, will that necessitate carb tuning? That's what they always said about many engines like motorcycles but...
Actually the cutting is a great example of how old timers get complacent with safety. Holding the saw one-handed with no safety gear. "I've done this a thousand times!" Yeah, and on a thousand and one it kills you.
I have many macs but I do truly love to run but as buckin would say there not the production saw. I have a 462 and I absolutely love to run it. I almost bought the 362 but sure glad I got the bigger saw. But I think I will be buying a 362 for more of a play saw
I have fallen and bucked about 16 cord of wood so far this year using a 460. If I remember correctly the 462 is a lighter version of the 460. Same power but with the weight of the 362. That to me seems like an ideal saw.
so i am getting my saws ready for our move to alaska. i heard you mention running lighter oil. i am going to have to run my saws at first in some very cold conditions. what oil or oils should i be looking at? here in tx the oils are very thick and heavy and i believe that will be compounded in -30
ridiculous sound kool to say i guess but nothing could be further from the truth. folk need to learn how to sharpen and operate the beautiful powersaws. leaning on them is just weird , and what for , there an old sayin' " let em cut'
Buckin’ Billy - - - love your videos, and watch them a lot. You guys forget something regarding the 70+cc saws. For us older guys, particularly those with longtime, troublesome shoulder, or upper arm injuries, it’s VERY difficult, if not impossible for us to crank a 70cc saw. So, we use a smaller saw that we can handle - - rather than quit. I’m 80 years old, started running saws in 1953, when I was 10 - - - and I’m not ready to quit, so I use something in the mid-50cc range. Keep up the good work.
Awesome video. In my area 50 to 60cc saws were the most common for firewood cutting with 16 inch bars, 20 inch bars were considered a long bar.
LOVE that p42 runs great,THANKS KEVIN YOU DID A GREAT JOB FILMING ,,HOPE EVERYONE IS HAVING A GOOD DAY
I got a 20" bar on my 362. Always loved it. I also got a 31" bar at home but never used it so far. I'll give it a try.
My mother in law always used long bars on her Husquvarnas, just for the benefit of standing upright. Well, I must admit it has its benefits. Greetings from the land of explosive trees.
P.S.: The oiler on my 362 runs the chain dry as a fart. With 20". I am upgrading it a piston from a 460 US model.
Hey Buckin', when I was growing up one of our neighbors who lived through the woods from us about 4 miles worked at the sawmill sawing logs. He was a big man, about 6'5'' and carried the biggest Stihl saw I had ever seen with a 5-6' bar on it! His name was Jesse Chriscoe ( he was a wonderful man like you). This was in the late '60's - early '70's. Almost everyone burned wood then and hardly anyone I knew had a saw with a 20'' bar. McCullochs and Homelites were the dominant saws! Great video and info! From Sophia, N.C. USA
im in randleman lol
Billy Ray.. thank you man.. I have been watching and learning from a great teacher. Today I cut down 8 of my trees. I got them to fall where I needed them to go and I bucked them without killing my back. Best of all, I did a trick cut with a double wedge that rotated the tree on its base 90 degrees as it tipped and fell. That allowed the limbs to untangle from another tree and avoid powerlines..you are the best..
and that's exactly why I run a 32" bar on my MS 362 CARBURETED VERSION I also have a bark box on it, and a WC Saws Foam Air Filter.....I do run Full Skip Chisel Bit chain, and it RIPS !....I did buy the Stihl ES Light bar, which helps with the balance of the longer bar, and it's truely a joy to run.....I'm 75 now, and bending over is not much of an option any more ... I'm an old Orygun Faller and still enjoy the saws.....OnWard.....
Spot on my friend, my 362" is set up very similar and I love it. Been looking at the new MS400 as a nice upgrade in power but with nearly the same size an weight.
I have the 362 M tronic run the West Coast Bark Box and their air filtration system. I either run a 25” or a 20” due to cutting in tight places but all upright! I’m 63 and those days of bent over are long gone and it just doesn’t make sense for chains I run a full skip chisel sharp but I m always reaching for my 036 Pro as it’s way more torque to me.
This is a west coast mindset for sure. Ohio arborist that runs a 362, 461, and a 661 on the ground on a regular basis. I wouldn’t even think of putting longer than a 20” bar on my 362. I’ll run up to a 28 on the 461, but I’m not putting anything over 30” on any saw but the 661.
I’m curious as to why you capitalized “carbureted version”? Does the bar size make a difference on that particular model vs the m-tronic? I’ve been eyeing the 362 and/or 462 but am stuck on whether m-tonic is worth it or not. If I’m gonna spend money I wanna make sure I get the best bang for my buck and have the best setup.
@@rogerpowers3891 I recently bought some land and a new double wide that’s getting built. And I have never owned a chainsaw, now that I own a full wooded lot, I need one. I’m getting a carbureted model Stihl MS362, the main reason why is so I can tune the high speed and low speed needles my self. They are quick and easy to access, and it’s super easy. I have been back and forward all the time on the Mtronic models. I want to get an Mtronic, but look at the old saws in this video. Do you really want to go adding all these electronics to a chain saw? It’s another point of failure. I couldn’t find a consistent answer on Mtronic or non Mtronic. So I read the Stihl reviews on Stihl’s website, most of all the bad reviews “Very few bad reviews” are from people complaining about the Mtronic system. The chances are slim, but they are there. This saw MS362 saw brand new is like $900 bucks plus taxes. So $962 range out the door. We need it to just work and run without issues. I’d love to go Mtronic but I’m just not sure.
I recently picked up a mint 1st gen 362 (made in ~2010) for $250 bucks, looks brand new. Can’t wait to try it out now, good stuff Buckin.
I run this saw/bar combo at work(road commission), great for what I do. I really enjoy it, gets the job done. Thanks for all of you videos.
Billy great video , i started running saw when i was 12 i am 63 now and need a new hip and have had two back surgery's , but i still run saw because i love it , last year i got a husky 562 xp with a 24 in bar great saw i was running a 044 mag stihl with a 28 in bar before that , great advice on running a longer bar ,it will save your back and the more you can stand up and not have to bend over all the time the better ,i run saw in northern idaho . like you i always watch the tip of the saw . God bless
You know I’ve never really given Stihl a chance but recently picked up a 361 and built a muffler for it. So far I’m extremely happy with it. Gotta get a 28” bar for it and really put it to work.
I’ve had a stock 362 for nearly 10 years, with full chisel chain it wouldn’t be any slower than that one. Definitely a fan of standing up to buck. 👍
Ya Buckin' I run a 362" it's a great saw but I agree with you on it's drawbacks 100%. If your gonna pack that much weight might as well just go up a 70-90cc instead. The weight difference is insignificant, but the power and bar length is huge. Great review!
fine i'll just get a 660, u convinced me
Buckin. As always your spot on with all the information. I thank you for everything you have taught me through this channel. Ive cut down trees that I normally wood have walked away from. But because of you and what I’ve learned I have made a few more stumps. Keep it coming. ❤
In this case he is not right with ALL his information regarding oiling. He is ~75% right about the oiler. If in large wood all the time, you need more oil otherwise the chain/bar load up with sawdust and JAMS and you have to continually clear it and likewise do not get oil to your tip bearing at end of bar causing heat/wear/jamming. Now 90% of everyone is NOT in large wood and never see this problem. This is essentially a bucking into firewood problem only in LARGE wood. Fallers will not see this problem. Likewise if you are in SMALL wood all the time, pouring expensive oil all over creation is also DUMB and a waste of $$$ and why you want to squeeze down your oiler on your larger saw if you know you will be running in a lot of small stuff. Most guys just have a smaller saw which comes from the factory... squeezed down and likewise never see this problem. Next point is if you use USED gear/transmission/engine oil(run it through a filter first). I do and therefore have to open my oiler up wider as it is LESS tacky than the commercial bar oil. Differences between transmission/engine oil necessitate this as well. But at ~$20/gallon oil currently, this saves a LOT of $$$.
@@w8stral Sounds like you need your own youtube channel. Maybe show Buck how to do it right...🙄
@@P.T.PhoneHome Let the world know when you wish to engage your brain. Otherwise enjoy flushing money down the drain on bar oil...
I can’t even begin to explain how much watching ur videos has helped me. Recently started sawing and you’ve been a big help
Same here, a couple of years ago. Stay safe and keep learning!
right on ben
You've given me a new perspective on sawing with longer bar with more power = stand up and save your back, I've been thinking about it all wrong with going light as possible with shorter bar
Jeeze I didn’t even realize the camera work until Buck’n said something. Thank you Kevin! I say thank you because your camera work was so good, I was “sucked” into the video so much I don’t think I blinked one time in 10min😄 Your distance, focus, everything was better than most videos I’ve seen👍 Really good job…..I mean it😉 Thanks again 🙂
Correction on my spelling Buckin’
You're a legend BBR! Got me looking forward to my trip to Nanaimo early November. Rain or shine, she'll be beautiful!
I have run this as my primary saw with a 28” thin Kerf cannon super mini bar for 8 years in hardwoods. It took me three years to track down a OEM wrap handle for it but I finally found one. I also did the bark box and wcs dogs on it. Been a great saw. For anything it can’t handle I run an 881 with a 41” bar. They say that the 362 has the highest power to weight ratio of any Stihl prior to the ms500… I believe it.
Look at the 400 cm. Great numbers.
the 261 has that claim, not the 362
@@andybayliss2020 good to know, Andy.
Did you get the longer clutch cover as well? Stihl sells a package with the 3/4 wrap, double dogs, roller chain catcher and longer clutch cover and chip deflector. Ordered through my dealer $150ish with tax in Europe.
You're still one of my heros Buckin! Keep doing what you do!
I have been away for awhile. Great to be back and see some good cutting techniques. Pretty refreshing.
You make an excellent point regarding going with the 70CC saw versus the smaller 362. In the lieutenant's barn , the shortest bar now is a 24"!!!!
Love you all..❤❤❤
Lieutenant Bradley
I do trail work so am regularly spend more time carrying a saw more than I cut with it. Many folks go with the 261 and an 18" bar for weight, but for me, I like the 362 with a 20". Definitely worth the extra pound or two when you hit those oaks that need double barring. I will often run a 28" on it for limbing and bucking for exactly the reasons you demonstrate. If I am not hiking, the 660 with a 36" is always fun to run.
How do you get involved with trail work?
@@everythingnerd7168 Depends on where you are at. I work with a hiking group called Carolina Mountain Club. But there are also groups for mountain bikers and horse back riders that do similiar work. I used to work for the US Forest Service so already had the sawyer certs so it was easy to jump in.
@@BenKickert I didnt even know they offered certifications. I am on the east coast but most of the trails I would volunteer on are national forest land. There is also a lot of state land around here. How do you get those certifications? I just looked at the usda and nwcg websites. I am a little confused now
@@everythingnerd7168 Call your local Forest Service ranger district and ask about volunteer trail work opportunities. My training and cert was done by USFS but is recognized for when I work on NPS land. But, I can only work on those public lands because the organization I volunteer with has an MOU with those agencies.
@@BenKickert Appreciate the advice. Thank you. I will do that
Hey Buckin' thanks for all the great advice! I just bought a used 272 with a 32" bar from guy who does saw and other small engine repair in Oregon. It should show up in about a week. I'm excited. Oh, and earlier today I bucked (with my little Stihl 250) a 16" tulip poplar that had wind fallen across a little ravine on the property. I used your wedge trick to get the two ends safely on the ground. Thank you!
I'm from Gilmer Texas and my dad and lots of friends around here use small bars just bought myself a 660 neo tec clone with a 36" bar and love it
I own a MS362c and love it for the small jobs I have to deal with. Just has a 20" bar which works fine for the
I have run 28" bars for cutting fire wood for many years, last year I bought the same saw as yours with 28". IAM 6'2" tall with long arms standing upright with arms down in a comfortable position the bar tip just miss the ground. You'll love it
Yes go for the longer bar especially with those size sticks, it will feel like you bought a brand new saw!
Hey Bucking and hello to the bucking army as well hope you all are having a great day today. Staying warm out there on this brisk fall afternoon be safe be happy and be kind everyone viking out.
Thanks for another great video, BBR! It’s a bright part of my day when we get a new video from ya! Cannot wait to run my 372xp with 24” bar! It’s my first saw… I’m a little late to the game at 46 yrs old, hahaha!
You got a heck of a starter saw!!!!
You'll get it bud. Doing firewood? Logging? Land clearing? Fun?
@@mattfleming86 Firewood, Fun and making blanks for woodturning. Also harvesting occasional green wood for carving spoons and utensils.
Wear the ppe. And, hang on!
@@markatkinson9963 hahaha yes indeed, sir!
I learned better prep and handling compression from you and it's helped my firewood cuttin 💯 love ya brother!
I bought a brand new 362 wrap with 24” light bar, really nice saw, torquey for its size. Only down sides I see is the anti vibe and stringer handle aren’t as well designed as a husky especially the 500 series that I’m most used too. Oil and fuel holes tend to let in more debris too but that’s very minor.
I’m actually approaching the point of ditching the 59cc 361 and going the next step up as a go to ground saw. I’m not convinced that it’s actually necessary. I think I may just want an excuse to buy a new saw, but realistically the difference you get in power for just a couple extra pounds is a big deal.
I haven’t thought much about whether I stand or kneel more than the other. I’m not real tall, so a 20 inch bar does pretty well, and I can buck medium to small logs while standing. I actually buck starting on the side of the log typically with the top of the bar, and that’s how I learned to feel the tip.
Best thing I ever did was watch Jacob Wolfinger buck some logs…watched and learned.
Great stuff, Billy Ray
For what it's worth, a 462 or 500i have the best power to weight of any of the stihl saws. I've gotten to work with a 500i and they cut like a dream, snappy power. I still love my 661 though.
I ran a 346 for years and learned to have a spare oiler that I changed on the back of a pickup many times, great saw. Now I am getting into this long bar thing and I like it, but for a long while a 14 inch bar was all you could get, anything else had to be ordered in. With this hurricane damage I have been running bigger saws, everything goes faster, I like it. Our wood here is shorter and smaller in the plantations mostly because we are catering to pulp mills, species and conditions play a role too, but there is big wood out there in private wood lots I've cut 70 to 90 foot trees in Nova Scotia on private land, crown land has been cut over constantly, so you won't find it there.
Mr. Smith the commentary on oilers @10:30 through the 11:30 minute marks were very interesting. Mr. Kevin did a fine job with the camera work...
My MS362 definitely needed an upgraded oiler. I put a 461 oiler in it as soon as I bought it, because even a 0.050" gauge 16" bar and chain was overheating due to lack of oil in 12" oak. Now the oiler can be turned down a little with a 25" 0.063" gauge bar. That 362 you have looks like it has been ported and modified looking at the way it cuts. One of these days I may get mine ported. I really don't do a whole lot of cutting like you do. Keep up the great work and thanks for the video.
I have a stock ms362 cm I just bought with a 25 inch bar it oils fine
@@michaelluft2732 What is your oil used??? If you are using commercial super expensive tacky oil @$20/gallon, you are right. If on the other hand you are using cheaper less tacky bar oil from say... Walmart or free used oil, then no, you are not right. At ~$20/gallon of commercial bar oil, one has to be dumb to not use used(filtered) oil which is free. This necessitates opening up the oiler as it is less tacky. Especially in larger wood when bucking. Likewise more oil = longer lasting bars which are by themselves ~$100. For these reasons, I will only buy saws with ability to vary the oiler away from VERY expensive tacky commercial oil.
362 , my first stihl. bought it used and a little beat up. still a strong runner. she gets its done.
I ran a 362 with 28 inch bar for wood and fire prevention up until I could no longer walk due to my spine. I grew up PNW and did some professional work as well. The extra length saves a lot of back if you have a working noodle.
The issue with the late model 362’s oilers is that they WERE(don’t know if they still are) restricted. Most of the stock ones can be modified to run properly.
How do you modify them?
@@OOOOOO12345 its been a while and im on a few pain killers so work with me and check out some forums as well.
From what I remember doing to mine you can drill out the “outlet” of the oiler. I picked a bit that was the same size as another one of my saws oilers. I think it was 1/16 larger. But do not quote me on that.
And i cant remember if it was mine or another from around the same time but the screw head fit into the plastics with a keyed fit. So it physically kept you from going too low or too high. Meaning you can replace that screw or modify with a file/dremel so you can simply turn it further. Very similar to some you find on carb adjust screws.
Also just to point out. They moved the lil screw from where you would assume. Its way in there.
Good luck
Perhaps only Aussies will get this but I have a 362 and a 660 magnum. Up to about 20" the 362 is a fantastic grunty saw and I'm very happy with it. But a lot of Aussie hardwood trunks have very thick stringy bark that can overwhelm the lubricant available in the bar. It will just dry out and lock up. So that's when I use the 660. Never had the bar freeze up on me with the 660.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the oil pump on the 362 but it does have its limits on Aussie timbers.
Similar combo mate, 362 and 395xp. Downsized the 362 to an 18"bar and turned oiler up to full
Ive run my 362 for a few years with a 25" bar and full chisel in mostly oak and ash. In stock form it will pull that pretty decently but after I put a Bark Box and a better air filter on the saw it really woke it up. I have considered putting a 32 or even a 36 on this saw with a half skip for some of the big trunks we see from time to time. Ive found as long as I keep the RPMs up on this saw, but will cut pretty good.
But the most important thing, I know how to sharpen a chain. My Dad taught me how to file, but seeing some of the stuff Buckin does really changed how I sharpen now.
Yea the 362 likes rpm it’s not a torque monster. Mine doesn’t like the dogs much with a 25” full comp bar.
I have done a 32" full skip buried in oak and you are right it will cut reasonably well but I think that is all it wants. You can't stop in the middle of the cut and restart you have to lift it up off the bottom of the kerf a bit and get it spooled up before putting it back into the wood but let it self feed.
@@danielbenedict9236 That was my thought too. Just keep the revs up and let the saw self feed when you gotta run something that long.
Good to see you again Buckin' this one must be hot off the press. Love to all
I have a 291 Stihl chainsaw and I can cut through that stuff all day with no problems Great video enjoy watching them
Hey Buckin', I'm learning a LOT from your videos. THANK YOU, FRIEND.
very welcome
Hey BBR! love your content! I'm in Michigan along the the shores of Lake Michigan so conditions here are quite different my friend. I see videos and I have been to dozens of safety shows, conferences and field operations. There's always a speaker who was a victim of some sort of accident and they really get on the bandwagon about safety practices and PPE. "Don't do what I did", is always their message, often they were severely injured or maimed for life. I wish there were more SME's (subjects matter experts) who weren't victims, who followed safe practices, used their PPE and were diligent and good at their craft, not just lucky.
Friend I see you wearing Chainsaw pants which is great, BUT I sure would like to see some eye and hearing protection. Please don't take this as criticism, as I think you're awesome and I've learned some great things through your channel. May God continue to bless you with provision and protection, grace, mercy and answered prayers!
Safe in , Safe out brother!
Although it’s not a pro grade saw, my MS 390 Farm Boss has been a beast for my needs. I bought it used 7 years ago for $270. I replaced the bar and chain with a 20” Rollomatic, and a full chisel chain. I modded the muffler and raised the rpm limit 500 rpms to 13,500. It’s a 64cc, slightly more than the 59cc 360-362 saws.
It’s a pound heavier than the 360-362 saws and holds a little less fuel, but it’s a damn good saw, and has given me years of great performance, cutting mostly locust, cherry, maple, and ash, here in western PA.
Just saying that for those that can’t afford a prograde saw, the MS 390-391-392 is an excellent option. Probably would be capable of driving a 28” too, although modding the muffler or air intake might be in order.
If you run a skip tooth on the 28" it'd probably pull it fine
390 is a great saw
I recently bought the 400 (67cc), it’s a big bore 362. Anyway it came with a 20” bar and I have been debating on a 25 or 28. I hear that it doesn’t pull a 28” bar, but if you only use half the bar I don’t see why it wouldn’t. That’s a lot of money to spend to be disappointed, I may try to borrow a bar before I buy one. Thanks for all your help and experience you share.
That's a lot of money to spend and not know Stihl rates that saw up to 25" bar. Many users cite a weak oiler.
How are you liking it? Did you ever get the 28?
I remember when I was a Wild land firefighter, I would help the sawyer. He would carry a MS 362 and it worked great. So that's what I bought, I have been using it since, Its a great saw.
I love how your saws sound they are friggen dialed! Tuned so well! Should make a video on tuning them? Any recommendations on oil ratios or anything?
Hey Buckin’
Thanks for sharing your information about the Stihl 362. Being a Stihl man I have been contemplating on whether I should buy a 362 or 462. Thank you for sharing your thoughts about the 362 and the advantages of running a 70 plus cc saw. I now know that spending the few extras dollars and getting 70 cc plus saw will be worth the extra cash.
Stay safe, be kind and love always wins ❤️🌲🪵🪓
362 definitely requires some extra feel to run at peak torque without bogging down stock with a+25" bar
I run a 362 now and was considering going to a 462 as well since they stopped making the 461 which was a wonderful bulletproof saw. But then I saw they just came out with the MS400. Look into the MS400 first I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
@@beebester4106 thanks for the information. I will definitely look into the 400.
Stay safe 🪓🪵
Love the 2 stroke crackle n brap. Gotta ask, seen it a few times when you shut off various saws, whats the purpose of holding the pull cord out 6-8in when shutting down?
My heavens that P42 works great!..she sounds amazing!…I have a 362 and she’s a runner!..I have a 440 and she will hang with the 440 any day of the week!!
Love my 362 and you guessed it 28 inch bar .saves my back.
Thanks billy ray!
What do we have here... a professional cinematographer...WOW!
Like how those Pioneer's sound....they have a unique tone to them, kinda crisp sounding. Good video brother, lotsa love!
Yes sir I need a bigger bar on the old sthil 044. 24 inch bar is small for it. Love the shows, and knowledge bud , keep it up.
Great video it’s a lot of fun ripping through that softwood
I like the 362 they did a lot of changes on that model now it’s good all the new Stihl’s are great good job buckin
Run a 28” on my 372 Xp and a 24 inch bar on my 572 ...always stand up as much as possible and do lean into the knotty ones too...shake blocking for years makes for proficient bucking .I do a lot of the things you do but I still learn lots from watching you ..and I enjoy it...that’s what it is about ..your recent trip looked awesome ...Thanks for all you do there...cheers ...oh and here comes de rain...
10:40 I have a ms363c-m with a 25” bar and it oils more then needed when turned to max. I turned it down otherwise it’s just pissing extra oil right out the bar where it enters it. I have it 70-80% open and it works great for a 25”
Ding Ding... but commercial boys just pass the costs along to the customer as they are more worried about getting the job done without hurting anything in the yard while making things pretty again rather than trying to save $1-->$10 of oil.
Nice video. My dad and uncle both logged. I like to run a 28. It seems to fit me perfect. I have 33 inch and it just little to long for me. I never have understood people and these 20 inch bars. I totally agree a 70 cc is the best not to heavy but good power.
Great camera work here! I especially liked the walk around of the top while you were bucking the limbs. Stay safe, brother!
I run a 361 and an 038 Mag. With the 361 wearing a 24" bar and the 038 wears a 30". Very noticeable weight difference but the newer 70cc saws are lighter than mine. Need to probably upgrade from 038 Mag to a 660/661 to pull that 30 in the mostly Maple, Ash, and Oak trees i cut. The power difference from 60 to 72cc's is surprising even on the older 038mag and really shows up in hard woods. I see the 361 as my big in tree saw where a few lbs especially for smaller guys like myself can add up. Ive had the 038 working out of bucket truck and its a pain to reach out far with.
I run a 28 inch bar on my 362 . On the 362 you can increase the amount of oil by removing a small cover under the saw and turning the screw . I would recommend turning it up for the 28 inch bar .the 20 inch bar that came on the saw oiled perfectly but when running the 28 inch bar it really needs to be turned up.
This guy is probably the only person on RUclips Ide take advice from he’s real with everything he says
That sucks hitting steel in a tree. One time I cut right through a bullet that was stuck in the wood. Didnt do near the damage as steel. Thanks for another awsome video. Good day to everyone!!
hey david, i was cutting my fence row and hit a screw in tree step they use for deer hunting. that really stinks
@@browndawg5872 That would stink. You are probably lucky your chain didnt break. I figured that bullet was fired between 25 and 30 years ago.
Buckin' you are a man amongst men! Love your kindness mentality and all your rockin saws! Wondering if you've ran a stihl 400 yet? I'd love to see a video on that to see your opinion! Keep on rockin cool guy!
So informative love learning from you and your experience m. Thanks so much. ⭐️✝️
Keep em coming Billy, another awesome video.
I won something? THAT'S A FIRST!
Wow almost missed this one ☝️ Nice touch showing what to do to avoid a pinched saw when bucking.
Nice shots Kevin 👍
Thanks Buck'in! Great vid and message!
That’s aswome billy you don’t even need a mingo marker or ruler lol to cut your firewood. I still need some work with that lol . I talk to Ted aka the saw surgeon told him I was using my left hand to use axe . Great videos Daniel Luther I am one of the super chatter . How do I order a bullet .? Well you take axe heads in trade for one lol . Your firewood game back in the day look great from the pics you post . I am working on getting some of my firewood sold . Plus working on my firewood production.Thanks Daniel
Thanks for the insights! I've been enjoying so many things from you. Especially about treating people right. Hey, I'm looking for a new bar for my Johnsered 2065, and looking at a 28" for the 1st time. I've had 20's on it since new, several of them.
Do you have a preference on chain width? I've been running the .050 chain for years. And also will be doing some milling on an Alaskan mill on occasion. Any insights on .050 or heavier chain in a longer bar setup?
And do you have chain manufacturer preference?
Thanks
pick yer poison brother.
Great video, but I saw one thing that really didn't like I'm a retired arborist and back in the '90s I was cutting up a big elm log with a 046 with a 32-in bar, Unlike you did at the beginning with no hand on the top of the saw, I did have a hand but my arm was not locked, about halfway through the log there was a big spike my chain hit it and kick it back and luckily for me that I had my hand on it it caught the chain break just as it cut me, went to the hospital and got 16 stitches so that's why I hate to see anybody cutting a log in that way ; because you don't know what's in there.
Hey Bucking Billy Ray love the old mcculloch chainsaws and your very knowledgeable about trees I want to thank you for being a great guy. I also have a Question for you what chainsaw do you recommend for big hardwood trees 3 feet and up please reply your friend Bruce
hardwood ..softwood , doesn't matter the saw doesnt care . only you do . ford, chevy ,dodge . buy a big one and run it sharp . no smaller than 70 cc
Thank you Buck my friend
You can adjust oil flow on some models of stihl on bottom there is a flat head screw with a E n a line showing which way to turn to increase or decrease oil flow for different size bars
Mostly on the Pro series saws but some none pro's have them husqvarna has adjustable oilers to behind oiler plate there is a small screw number 1 to 4 to increase decrease the Timman has a video on his channel showing it not sure if all husqvarna have them or not
Awesome video Buckin, your right 100% I have a 661 with 28” bar and I feel a lot better in my back then using a 22” on my 372. Love the jack Nicholas moment mate 😂.
661? 28”? Put a 32”-36 on it. Or get a 572 husky. Why run such a short bar on a 94cc saw. I run a 28” skip on a mild ported 371 from 99
@@rhyssutherland8937 run a 28” as that’s all I need for it. These two saws are my main saws. Nice Rhys long as it does the job and your back ok 👌
alot of husky buddies are switching from the 562 to that saw... unrelated but found an old walters double bit axe, taken out of the ground from an old timers site today. Great find.
I’m currently hot rodding a ms290 with 390 barrel etc and hoping it will take a 25-28inch bar for exactly this ….. also most oilers can just be turned up to give more oil
I needed this one Buckin! Im running the same saw!
Hahahaha me too. I actually watched the vid before this and commented exactly that. BBR said, "Tomorrow". Yes!
@@danr308 Yea man, I've been running a 25 inch on mine and have always been curious about a 28 inch!
Nice Camara work Kevin 👍✊
Real nice video, well done!👍
I would love to see buckins opinion of the ms400. It’s a screamer with a bark box. I can’t imagine a walkerized one
I love the sound of your saws when you bang them full throttle. That chain freaked me out a little bit though with the chain being loose (for me) on the bar. That sound though...RAAWK RAAAAAWK!! Stand up and buck!
If you do a mod to the muffler to let it flow more freely, will that necessitate carb tuning? That's what they always said about many engines like motorcycles but...
I like that I'm seeing some more stihl videos 👍🏻 400 C in the near future??
Love your videos! How tall are you? I', 6'3" trying to decide 32 or 36" bar for stand up and buck with my ms462. Thanks!
Camera work was A+. As was the cutting. ❤
Actually the cutting is a great example of how old timers get complacent with safety. Holding the saw one-handed with no safety gear. "I've done this a thousand times!" Yeah, and on a thousand and one it kills you.
No issues with oiling on my 036 running a 25" bar. The trick as always is to get a grind that is hungry on there so you don't have to apply pressure.
Injoy your videos learning alot.
I have many macs but I do truly love to run but as buckin would say there not the production saw. I have a 462 and I absolutely love to run it. I almost bought the 362 but sure glad I got the bigger saw. But I think I will be buying a 362 for more of a play saw
I have fallen and bucked about 16 cord of wood so far this year using a 460. If I remember correctly the 462 is a lighter version of the 460. Same power but with the weight of the 362. That to me seems like an ideal saw.
That Stihl sure does look good in your hands.
Loved the buck!
so i am getting my saws ready for our move to alaska. i heard you mention running lighter oil. i am going to have to run my saws at first in some very cold conditions. what oil or oils should i be looking at? here in tx the oils are very thick and heavy and i believe that will be compounded in -30
Dude! Thanks so much for the oiler comments! I have a 362 and that talk is what was stopping me from going to a 28".
ridiculous sound kool to say i guess but nothing could be further from the truth. folk need to learn how to sharpen and operate the beautiful powersaws. leaning on them is just weird , and what for , there an old sayin' " let em cut'
What is the purpose of pulling the pull cord before shitting down the saw? Personal preference or something?
Awesome camera work sir 👌🏻
Homeowner crushing the camera work.
right yeah buddy
Stand up and Buck!!!! Love it
makes a lil sense eh
Yes it does I love your content and cant wait until you are back to 100% health stay the corse my friend
great work
Kevin the cameraman !
So with my 066 what bar should I buck with 28in an chizul tooth chain?
I love that p42 lol . Thing barks .
same in hardwood Billy? It's all twisted notty gum where I am in Australia
Cut alot of second growth timber in the 80’s with the ole pioneer. Good ole saws 💯