Hi Fabian, yes great thank you so much. Yes I live in Florida now for long time so I love to shoot the herons,cranes,ibis,egrets,any ducks,iguanas and the florida soft shell turtles. All these are are at ponds,parks and lakes here anywhere you can find. Yes Idk if i'll ever move back to where I came from Detroit🙂thanks great tips for my shots. Looking forward to next😊
Thanks for sharing Fabian, some nice shots as always. I find that shooting in public parks is often quite interesting but they are what they are, not wild natural places. Just enjoy shooting and seeing the animals. I've got some of my most interesting shots when I only had an unsuitable lens for the task, it makes one inventive and pumped full of adrenaline trying to actually get something acceptable. Enjoy your break in München . 😊
I have the R7 and use the original EF 500F4 is and the EF100-400L ii with it. There is no difference in quality as far as I can tell. But F4 and 500mm is not possible with the zoom so I need the big lens sometimes. I also use the Metabones speedbooster 0.71x and the 1.4x iii TC with both. That gives me an effective 550mm F2.8 lens with F4 DOF and an effective 110mm-440mm F4 zoom with F5.6 DOF with the speedbooster! I find the zoom a very useful lens. Mainly wildlife and especially birds here in South Africa
Nice video again!! Do you always use DXO or Topaz in the post processing? Also with low ISO settings (for example with photos taken with ISO 400-800 or lower). Sometimes using these programs takes away some details and giving aberration (I mostly using RF100-500 and RF 200-800).
Very nice video as always,Fabian. Unfortunately, crazy bad IBIS wobble during the selfie footsge... was that the R5? Thanks and have a good visit. Rudy in Ottawa
Regarding ISO and shutter speed, I got a tip from an mft user. He finds correct exposure and then raises ISO and reduce shutter speed until he gets the speed he wants. He said as long as light is ok for the human eye, and iso is not used to “brighten” the picture, but reduce shutter speed, the image quality will not be impacted too much. Was surprised that I was taking ISO 3200-6400 pictures that looked ok 😂 This also kind of made me understand the advantage of wide apertures, because if “brightening” an image using ISO is what makes them noisy, shooting something fast in the shade is really only possible with flash or a big aperture lens.
Hmm, but if I want a shutter speed of 1/250 of a second, than this might mean I‘m at 100‘000 ISO. From my experience, this doesn’t look very good anymore. In these situations I often gamble and take a slower shutter speed that I would actually like to keep the ISO at let’s say 25’600 max. Or am I missing something.
@@FabianFoppNaturephotography I think there was image quality loss but no more significant than the motion blur, it was most effective when I could get a bird on perch image at base iso, but shutter speed was about 1/60. I think the trick is to be able to keep the exposure meter at 0. When the next step of iso up and shutter down made the light meter go under 0, the quality was really bad. Quality was also really bad for anything too far from the camera.
Hi Fabian, yes great thank you so much. Yes I live in Florida now for long time so I love to shoot the herons,cranes,ibis,egrets,any ducks,iguanas and the florida soft shell turtles. All these are are at ponds,parks and lakes here anywhere you can find. Yes Idk if i'll ever move back to where I came from Detroit🙂thanks great tips for my shots. Looking forward to next😊
Thanks!
Great video ! thank you for sharing !
Thanks
Thanks for sharing Fabian, some nice shots as always. I find that shooting in public parks is often quite interesting but they are what they are, not wild natural places. Just enjoy shooting and seeing the animals. I've got some of my most interesting shots when I only had an unsuitable lens for the task, it makes one inventive and pumped full of adrenaline trying to actually get something acceptable. Enjoy your break in München . 😊
Thanks
I have the R7 and use the original EF 500F4 is and the EF100-400L ii with it. There is no difference in quality as far as I can tell. But F4 and 500mm is not possible with the zoom so I need the big lens sometimes. I also use the Metabones speedbooster 0.71x and the 1.4x iii TC with both. That gives me an effective 550mm F2.8 lens with F4 DOF and an effective 110mm-440mm F4 zoom with F5.6 DOF with the speedbooster! I find the zoom a very useful lens. Mainly wildlife and especially birds here in South Africa
Nice, enjoy
Awesome video
Thanks
Nice video again!! Do you always use DXO or Topaz in the post processing? Also with low ISO settings (for example with photos taken with ISO 400-800 or lower). Sometimes using these programs takes away some details and giving aberration (I mostly using RF100-500 and RF 200-800).
No, usually only at higher ISO (1600 and up)
@@FabianFoppNaturephotography ok, thx!!
Very nice video as always,Fabian. Unfortunately, crazy bad IBIS wobble during the selfie footsge... was that the R5?
Thanks and have a good visit.
Rudy in Ottawa
Thanks! No, this was my iPhone
OK, great, I am very relieved to hear that as I too own the R5.
Vielen Dank,
Rudy
Do you own the 100-300? I can’t wait to use it, all booked for just a couple of days in Aug.
Awesome video. Enjoy your time there too
Yes, I bought it a few months ago
@@FabianFoppNaturephotography fantastic!! That is a super lens. Enjoy!
Regarding ISO and shutter speed, I got a tip from an mft user. He finds correct exposure and then raises ISO and reduce shutter speed until he gets the speed he wants. He said as long as light is ok for the human eye, and iso is not used to “brighten” the picture, but reduce shutter speed, the image quality will not be impacted too much. Was surprised that I was taking ISO 3200-6400 pictures that looked ok 😂 This also kind of made me understand the advantage of wide apertures, because if “brightening” an image using ISO is what makes them noisy, shooting something fast in the shade is really only possible with flash or a big aperture lens.
Hmm, but if I want a shutter speed of 1/250 of a second, than this might mean I‘m at 100‘000 ISO. From my experience, this doesn’t look very good anymore. In these situations I often gamble and take a slower shutter speed that I would actually like to keep the ISO at let’s say 25’600 max. Or am I missing something.
@@FabianFoppNaturephotography I think there was image quality loss but no more significant than the motion blur, it was most effective when I could get a bird on perch image at base iso, but shutter speed was about 1/60. I think the trick is to be able to keep the exposure meter at 0. When the next step of iso up and shutter down made the light meter go under 0, the quality was really bad. Quality was also really bad for anything too far from the camera.
Yes, I totally agree regarding the point of not underexposing
algo
Thx