Sir I truly thank you for taking time out of your day to help people like me. I have the same code that starts with a U and I’m going to do exactly what you showed us.
When you remove the vgt actuator try and move the small lever that moves the veins inside the turbo if it does not sweep sided to side turbo veins are locked up and need to replace the turbo the vgt canot make a determination if the veins are locked up
Thank you for the data, no one offered electrical testing. I’m wondering if I could wire my VGT for max boost. I understand it will set off codes, and I understand it was not the way it is designed. But for the sake of testing, I would like to hot wire it and see what it does.
@wheyez1, Hi, it's not a conventional circuit, where it gets power one way and ground. It is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) circuit. It pulses ground to regulate VGT movement at % of incriments. Also, you may not want to force feed anything. The powers & ground coming to VGT Actuator are inly to power up the Module. It is a Stand Alone system that has it's own strategy and dictates Turbo Function. It is all Self Controlled inside the Turbo Actuator. ECM only feeds (PID) Data to the Actuator so it can do it's own thing. All the wires comint to the Actuator are Computer fed, and 2 are 'CAN BUS' Network. You don't want to fry anything... Anything you want to do with Turbo has to be programmed into the Actuator or atleast dictated by fooling the Actuator... ** Be Careful **
This time, no engine light, but went into some sort of Limp mode temporarily (1 minute). Only DTC was U010C pending. This week, a couple of times, light did set, but nothing happened. Thinking machines are a pain.
This may be a sign, that the Turbo Actuator, is starting to go out. They usually loose communication once they get to operating temp. And if the #1 Nox sensor, is not putting up a code for communication as well, then it would point at the actuator, and not the wiring. Remember, VGT Actuator & # NOX Sensor, share the same exact CAN Communication lines. So if wiring (it's only 2 wires on that communication system) is the problem, then both those part would loose communication with the ECM. Hope you get passed this problem, these 6.7's are awesome when running good. Good luck.... let me know, any way I can help.
@Lex O, Glad to hear the info helped. And going forward, content will be better edited, and cleaner, as I learn this video making part. 22 years as Diesel Tech, but only 5 mnths making videos. Be safe....
Hello. Great video. I am getting the the same U010C as well as a P2BAC Nox Exceedence code. Is that a canbus error? Are you able to please provide some hints as how to diagnose? Thanks in advance.
Hello I have the u010c code and no noc code however upon checkin the can bus I have NO power whatsoever. Trying to figure out the next step as I was expecting it to be the actuator.
Need Advice. 2012 Ram with efi live, truck has always ran great until the other day. Truck will no longer build boost past 10 psi. Scanner says there is 0 command and 0 actual for the vgt with no codes. Replaced the actuator with a city diesel unit same issue. Actuator dose move three time with key on. exhaust back pressure sensor reads about 18 going down the road. had an extra map sensor changed it still nothing. Reading at the actuator plug has 12 volts, ground and 2.7 volts 2.33 with key on. Key off both com read 120 ohms.. any help would be greatly appreciated..
@hecler406, Hi, sounds like head scratcher. You covered most of the 'General' failures with this type of symptom. Only cause I did not read this step in your post, and this is a likely possibilty. Just a basic question. Did you check to see if the Turbo VGT "Lever", the one that is driven by the VGT Actuator. Check to make sure it travels freely from end to end of travel. It is very important, because the VGT Actoator Motor, is not a high amparage component. It will try to move the lever, any subtle resistance and it will only try for a couple of seconds, and after a few attempts, it will put itself in Limp Mode. Because the Computer is monitoring VGT, Boost, & EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure) Desired vs Actual, and if there is a difference for more than about 4-6 second, the computer will go into 'Derate' (Limp Mode). If you have a scanner, the type that can do 'Bidirectional Testing', you can start the Vehicle, and Command VGT movement and see if it's fully following commands. There is a small Possibility that your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor could be a problem. If able to read Live Data, monitor that MAP data in the morning, before Start Up (should be at Atmospheric Pressure) All pressure sensors should be at that number before Starting the Engine. Also check your Temp Sensors (Intake, Coolant, EGR, EGT's), first thing before start up (should be ambient temp). Monitoring all Pressure & Temp Sensors, first thing in the morning before start up, they should all be within each others range, and near otside Pressure and Temp #'s. I believe there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from the manufacturer for incorrect MAP Sensors based on Current Software Updates. I will gather this info, and see if you fall in that TSB....
I have a CANbus data problem but have failed to locate. My boost issue is intermittent as I get full boost at random times and other times at full throttle will only receive 12psi boost pressure. Great video but any tips on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated
@@mikesilva2593 I bought a vgt actuator off Amazon and replaced it myself. Super easy, and it comes with a obd2 plug in to calibrate it. Found it for $500. Got rid of my code.
Hey dude could really use some tips and help, wife writing here to get my husbands 2008 Ford F-250 truck fixed, took to multiple shops feels like it’s worse now then when we took it in already out thousands of dollars please help guide me. If we could get in touch that would be rad.
Thank you sir for the video, exactly what I needed to see! I got the U010C code only and upon testing the wiring the (orange) was ok at +/- 12v, the (white/light blue) is 2.8v and the (white/green) is 1.8v and the purple is ok. You didn't tell us the problem if the two middle ones were far apart. Do you think I have a problem and if so what would I need for a fix? Thanks
Thanks for the video I have U010C and U011A does that mean a can bus data problem and if so what does that mean how would I go about fixing it thanks so much
@zac Edwards, Hi, yes it sounds like you lost can bus data communication. Being that you have lost communication with VGT Actuator & 1st Nox Sensor. The circuit does need to be checked. First things first, vidually check the wiring near the Engine block by the Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Housing. They all meet back there, and sometimes will rub through to the wires. Have to remove Air Filter Tube/Elbow or what not. I will give you a description of whst to do, let me get some schematics, and see how I can help with that. Let free up from what Im doing, and will get that going.
@@smallhandsgarage9290 hi I still have that problem but now it’s only the U010C on my 08 dodge Ram Cummins just wounder if if you think it’s my actuator or just wiring I put my emissions back on my truck and getting the code a year later thanks so much
@@smallhandsgarage9290 thanks for offering to help with this. I have the same problem and was wondering if you made a video response? @zacedwards did this fix your problem?
On the orange and black I'm getting .584... this is without the key in the ignition and the ground of the tester direct to the battery ground. Is this the correct configurationto test it?
@christophercarias-estevez5844, Hi, yes the key has to be in the on position. What is called KOEO (Key On Engine Off)... It's the only way to check power &/or grounds. If only checking for resistance/Continuity, the key does not even need to be in the ignition switch.
So I’ve got a 15 model with the 6.7 exhaust brake is gone and has trouble building boost. No codes and I have power and ground at vgt plug. Would you say acuator is bad?
Hey Chris did you figure it out. Did you replace the actuator? I have a 2018 Ram 2500 and it's only giving me the U010C code. Started mid January, the cel would come and go. I still had boost and brake till today I noticed the loss of power and weak brake.
I have a 2018 Ram 2500. I only have the U010C code the cel would come and go. I had boost and brake till today I noticed the boost was low and the brake was weak. It just started like the 2nd week of January. Should I just replace the actuator
@@williamdavid9272I bought the actuator from city diesel and took it to the diesel repair shop. I wasn’t sure if I could do the work since a lot of the videos I researched had issues with a bolt that was known to be rusted and hard to remove. Left it to the professionals.
@mattolmos666, Hi, 1.7v on a CAN-L (Low), can be considered normal, if the Computer is on, and messages are being transmitted. CAN-H (2.5v) CAN-L (2.5v), if you see that, it usually means that CAN BUS system is idle, not much happening... When the System is working, communicating, and everything is working as it should, you will see; CAN-H (3.75v) CAN-L (1.25V) If eberything is on, running, and you see 2.5v & 2.5v.. Usually means something wrong with a component in the Communication System. You would have to isolate (unplug) each component until Voltage looks normal. Replug in, and watch it go back to bad numbers, that means that component you unpluged, and pluged back in, is the problem...
Sir I truly thank you for taking time out of your day to help people like me. I have the same code that starts with a U and I’m going to do exactly what you showed us.
Thanks for the great description and showing the right way to test. 😀👍👍
Thanks for helping us
When you remove the vgt actuator try and move the small lever that moves the veins inside the turbo if it does not sweep sided to side turbo veins are locked up and need to replace the turbo the vgt canot make a determination if the veins are locked up
Thank you for the data, no one offered electrical testing. I’m wondering if I could wire my VGT for max boost. I understand it will set off codes, and I understand it was not the way it is designed. But for the sake of testing, I would like to hot wire it and see what it does.
@wheyez1,
Hi, it's not a conventional circuit, where it gets power one way and ground. It is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) circuit. It pulses ground to regulate VGT movement at % of incriments.
Also, you may not want to force feed anything. The powers & ground coming to VGT Actuator are inly to power up the Module. It is a Stand Alone system that has it's own strategy and dictates Turbo Function. It is all Self Controlled inside the Turbo Actuator.
ECM only feeds (PID) Data to the Actuator so it can do it's own thing. All the wires comint to the Actuator are Computer fed, and 2 are 'CAN BUS' Network.
You don't want to fry anything...
Anything you want to do with Turbo has to be programmed into the Actuator or atleast dictated by fooling the Actuator...
** Be Careful **
This time, no engine light, but went into some sort of Limp mode temporarily (1 minute). Only DTC was U010C pending. This week, a couple of times, light did set, but nothing happened. Thinking machines are a pain.
This may be a sign, that the Turbo Actuator, is starting to go out. They usually loose communication once they get to operating temp.
And if the #1 Nox sensor, is not putting up a code for communication as well, then it would point at the actuator, and not the wiring.
Remember, VGT Actuator & # NOX Sensor, share the same exact CAN Communication lines. So if wiring (it's only 2 wires on that communication system) is the problem, then both those part would loose communication with the ECM.
Hope you get passed this problem, these 6.7's are awesome when running good.
Good luck.... let me know, any way I can help.
Awesome. Great info. Thanks
@Lex O,
Glad to hear the info helped.
And going forward, content will be better edited, and cleaner, as I learn this video making part.
22 years as Diesel Tech, but only 5 mnths making videos.
Be safe....
Thanks for the info!
Hello. Great video. I am getting the the same U010C as well as a P2BAC Nox Exceedence code. Is that a canbus error? Are you able to please provide some hints as how to diagnose? Thanks in advance.
Hello I have the u010c code and no noc code however upon checkin the can bus I have NO power whatsoever. Trying to figure out the next step as I was expecting it to be the actuator.
So power on orange/blk str and ground on purple/Blk switch full on what switches back , or exhaust brake on?
Need Advice. 2012 Ram with efi live, truck has always ran great until the other day. Truck will no longer build boost past 10 psi. Scanner says there is 0 command and 0 actual for the vgt with no codes. Replaced the actuator with a city diesel unit same issue. Actuator dose move three time with key on. exhaust back pressure sensor reads about 18 going down the road. had an extra map sensor changed it still nothing. Reading at the actuator plug has 12 volts, ground and 2.7 volts 2.33 with key on. Key off both com read 120 ohms.. any help would be greatly appreciated..
@hecler406,
Hi, sounds like head scratcher. You covered most of the 'General' failures with this type of symptom.
Only cause I did not read this step in your post, and this is a likely possibilty. Just a basic question.
Did you check to see if the Turbo VGT "Lever", the one that is driven by the VGT Actuator. Check to make sure it travels freely from end to end of travel. It is very important, because the VGT Actoator Motor, is not a high amparage component. It will try to move the lever, any subtle resistance and it will only try for a couple of seconds, and after a few attempts, it will put itself in Limp Mode. Because the Computer is monitoring VGT, Boost, & EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure) Desired vs Actual, and if there is a difference for more than about 4-6 second, the computer will go into 'Derate' (Limp Mode).
If you have a scanner, the type that can do 'Bidirectional Testing', you can start the Vehicle, and Command VGT movement and see if it's fully following commands.
There is a small Possibility that your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor could be a problem. If able to read Live Data, monitor that MAP data in the morning, before Start Up (should be at Atmospheric Pressure) All pressure sensors should be at that number before Starting the Engine. Also check your Temp Sensors (Intake, Coolant, EGR, EGT's), first thing before start up (should be ambient temp).
Monitoring all Pressure & Temp Sensors, first thing in the morning before start up, they should all be within each others range, and near otside Pressure and Temp #'s.
I believe there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from the manufacturer for incorrect MAP Sensors based on Current Software Updates. I will gather this info, and see if you fall in that TSB....
I am getting the U010C, P003A, and P00AF. Is that the actuator and are the other test I can do with my meter
I have a CANbus data problem but have failed to locate. My boost issue is intermittent as I get full boost at random times and other times at full throttle will only receive 12psi boost pressure. Great video but any tips on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated
Same issue with me except my boost is going lower and lower
@@mikesilva2593 I bought a vgt actuator off Amazon and replaced it myself. Super easy, and it comes with a obd2 plug in to calibrate it. Found it for $500. Got rid of my code.
Any update to this? What was ur fix ?
Bounce dryer sheets will keep them out
Great video sir question will a faulty nox sensor (turbo top) cause the actuator to go bad? I got the U010c code and the first nox sensor turbo top
Hey dude could really use some tips and help, wife writing here to get my husbands 2008 Ford F-250 truck fixed, took to multiple shops feels like it’s worse now then when we took it in already out thousands of dollars please help guide me. If we could get in touch that would be rad.
Thank you sir for the video, exactly what I needed to see! I got the U010C code only and upon testing the wiring the (orange) was ok at +/- 12v, the (white/light blue) is 2.8v and the (white/green) is 1.8v and the purple is ok. You didn't tell us the problem if the two middle ones were far apart. Do you think I have a problem and if so what would I need for a fix? Thanks
@jefflancaster699 Did you find out if those numbers were good?
Thanks for the video I have U010C and U011A does that mean a can bus data problem and if so what does that mean how would I go about fixing it thanks so much
@zac Edwards,
Hi, yes it sounds like you lost can bus data communication. Being that you have lost communication with VGT Actuator & 1st Nox Sensor.
The circuit does need to be checked.
First things first, vidually check the wiring near the Engine block by the Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Housing. They all meet back there, and sometimes will rub through to the wires.
Have to remove Air Filter Tube/Elbow or what not.
I will give you a description of whst to do, let me get some schematics, and see how I can help with that.
Let free up from what Im doing, and will get that going.
@@smallhandsgarage9290 thank you so much I really appreciate it
@@smallhandsgarage9290 I have a 09 ram Cummins 6.7 3500 third gen right before the switched body styles thanks
@@smallhandsgarage9290 hi I still have that problem but now it’s only the U010C on my 08 dodge Ram Cummins just wounder if if you think it’s my actuator or just wiring I put my emissions back on my truck and getting the code a year later thanks so much
@@smallhandsgarage9290 thanks for offering to help with this. I have the same problem and was wondering if you made a video response? @zacedwards did this fix your problem?
On the orange and black I'm getting .584... this is without the key in the ignition and the ground of the tester direct to the battery ground. Is this the correct configurationto test it?
If I’m am getting u010c and the code for the NOX, both intermittent, would it just be wiring/connectors?
Does the truck need to be in the "on" position, not running. Or can it be performed whiles its off?
@christophercarias-estevez5844,
Hi, yes the key has to be in the on position. What is called KOEO (Key On Engine Off)...
It's the only way to check power &/or grounds. If only checking for resistance/Continuity, the key does not even need to be in the ignition switch.
Does key need to be in the on position?
So I’ve got a 15 model with the 6.7 exhaust brake is gone and has trouble building boost. No codes and I have power and ground at vgt plug. Would you say acuator is bad?
Hey Chris did you figure it out. Did you replace the actuator? I have a 2018 Ram 2500 and it's only giving me the U010C code. Started mid January, the cel would come and go. I still had boost and brake till today I noticed the loss of power and weak brake.
@@manuelgonzalez1652 yeah, a fleece cheetah fixed it. Blew the cheetah up and now it has a non vgt s467
I followed your volt testing, and at the high data wire (green/white), I’m only getting 1.7VDC. Can you recommend next steps? Thanks.
Did you find out if those numbers were good
@@davidshapiro1419 I ended up doing a turbo swap.
I have a 2018 Ram 2500. I only have the U010C code the cel would come and go. I had boost and brake till today I noticed the boost was low and the brake was weak. It just started like the 2nd week of January. Should I just replace the actuator
I have this problem, what did you end up doing?
@williamdavid9272,
Hi, this problem ended up being a bad VGT Actuator...
Teplaced only the Actuator, not the Turbo.
@@smallhandsgarage9290 good to know! Just ordered city diesel actuator, going to throw it on this weekend and see if it works. Appreciate the reply 🍻
@@williamdavid9272I bought the actuator from city diesel and took it to the diesel repair shop. I wasn’t sure if I could do the work since a lot of the videos I researched had issues with a bolt that was known to be rusted and hard to remove. Left it to the professionals.
Hi. Mine showed 12.3 volts in key on second position. The second one showed 2.8 and the third one showed 1.76 is this fine? Then ground 0
Did you find out if those numbers were good
Got two codes… u010c & p2bac
Did you ever figure out your problem? I have the same codes
@@jdhappy7663 was the turbo actuator, once I replaced it the codes were gone
Is 1.7 within tolerance?
Was the 1.7 within tolerance?
@mattolmos666,
Hi, 1.7v on a CAN-L (Low), can be considered normal, if the Computer is on, and messages are being transmitted.
CAN-H (2.5v) CAN-L (2.5v), if you see that, it usually means that CAN BUS system is idle, not much happening...
When the System is working, communicating, and everything is working as it should, you will see;
CAN-H (3.75v) CAN-L (1.25V)
If eberything is on, running, and you see 2.5v & 2.5v..
Usually means something wrong with a component in the Communication System. You would have to isolate (unplug) each component until Voltage looks normal. Replug in, and watch it go back to bad numbers, that means that component you unpluged, and pluged back in, is the problem...