Hi I have a 2016 ram 2500 exhaust brake doesn’t work my truck is tuned for it to whitsle in idle now it doesn’t exhaust brake was stuck on took it for a ride and it got unstuck now it doesn’t turn on now I can here the whitsle in idle can that be the turbo or can it be the sensor and I have no codes I’m assuming if it’s sensor it throws a code
Mine threw a code even though I didn't have a bad sensor. But my exhaust brake nozzle was getting stuck. Too much soot recirculating through the EGR system will cause the turbo to carbon up and cause the exhaust brake nozzle to stick. So it may just need cleaning, the dealer can do that with a special chemical. Most people say to turn your exhaust brake on every time u start it so it keeps working freely. Unless a part broke off like it did in my 3 part videos. And yes a bad sensor should give you a code.
I currently replaces my manifolds gaskets, EGR cooler gasket. Etc. I am getting a hi pitch noiese when towing or not towing. I have done manifold gaskets put 😮 it back to together and I am still. Note what’s what could on
Is it suppose to sound like a hover vac?? ... mine sounded like that and not it does not, do you know what is going on? When EB is 'on' I do get the the down shifts smooth now.
As I understand it, the EB will kick on right after startup during cold weather. IDK what temp it has to be to get it to engage, but supposedly it heats the engine up faster, and it will sound like a hoover vacuum then. Otherwise it should not... When is yours doing it?
@@anesthesiadreamin Well ever since i had the truck it sounded like a loud whining noise when EB is turned on(idle). I thought it was normal. But lately we got a freeze here and ever since, that noise went away. Now i do not hear it when ON.
I I've never done it, but theoretically you could turn the key on, pull the actuator straight out, Mark the arm position, then check your arm motion, then put it back where it was, and then put the actuator back on, then turn the key off. In theory. I've never done it though. But it does make sense
@@mkleyn99 I think it would still work, but it would probably throw a code because it would be out of adjustment. Have to take it to the dealer to get it recalibrated. I don't know how much that cost. I know If you want to do it yourself the software is $500, if you watch the other two videos in my series, part two and three they go over that
@@chrismodlin483 same here, ordered a new fleece cheetah turbo n acuator. Hope it fixes my problem. Did you fix yours. Hopefully mine comes out of limp mode
Im not positive but I think there are other triggers for that code. My buddies problem was not his turbo, but was his actuator. So if I were you I would try to rule out the actuator first, make sure you watch the other two videos in this series. The actuator is obviously the cheap thing compared to a new turbo. If you find out it is your actuator, you can get a replacement for about 500 bucks but then you need the special software or a dealer to calibrate it. Your other option is to buy the City Diesel actuator, it does not require any programming, but it's about 800 bucks I think.
Of course my worry was if I couldn't fix it in my driveway, I would have to swallow my pride and call the dealer or a diesel shop to tow it and have it fixed LOL
@@jaedatrucker168OK, good luck! Double check me, but I believe you can remove your actuator and replace it without screwing up the timing IF you follow a couple steps: drain coolant, loosen actuator bolts but DONT remove them (keep actuator tight against the turbo bearing housing), turn your key on and KEEP it on, pull the bolts and the actuator straight off, note where the sector shaft is, make sure it moves through it's full range of motion (if it is not sticking problem is likely your actuator, if it is sticking or doesn't go thru the full range of motion problem is likely your turbo), put sector shaft back where it originally was, with bolts thru the actuator slide the actuator STRAIGHT on, tighten it down, key off, coolant in. IIRC this will not cause an error code but double check me. Also if your seal is bad get a replacement right away. please let me know how it goes, and what you find!
Yup I watched all three of your videos. Thank you!
Hey, if you actually do take it off and put it back on, let us know in the comments here how it goes! Thanks for watching
Your supposed to here the turbo at idle when it’s cold. Provides back pressure to make the engine work harder so it warms up faster
Correctomundo
Hi I have a 2016 ram 2500 exhaust brake doesn’t work my truck is tuned for it to whitsle in idle now it doesn’t exhaust brake was stuck on took it for a ride and it got unstuck now it doesn’t turn on now I can here the whitsle in idle can that be the turbo or can it be the sensor and I have no codes I’m assuming if it’s sensor it throws a code
Mine threw a code even though I didn't have a bad sensor. But my exhaust brake nozzle was getting stuck. Too much soot recirculating through the EGR system will cause the turbo to carbon up and cause the exhaust brake nozzle to stick. So it may just need cleaning, the dealer can do that with a special chemical. Most people say to turn your exhaust brake on every time u start it so it keeps working freely. Unless a part broke off like it did in my 3 part videos. And yes a bad sensor should give you a code.
I currently replaces my manifolds gaskets, EGR cooler gasket. Etc. I am getting a hi pitch noiese when towing or not towing. I have done manifold gaskets put 😮 it back to together and I am still. Note what’s what could on
Is it suppose to sound like a hover vac?? ... mine sounded like that and not it does not, do you know what is going on?
When EB is 'on' I do get the the down shifts smooth now.
As I understand it, the EB will kick on right after startup during cold weather. IDK what temp it has to be to get it to engage, but supposedly it heats the engine up faster, and it will sound like a hoover vacuum then. Otherwise it should not... When is yours doing it?
@@anesthesiadreamin Well ever since i had the truck it sounded like a loud whining noise when EB is turned on(idle). I thought it was normal. But lately we got a freeze here and ever since, that noise went away. Now i do not hear it when ON.
Can I pull the actuator and put it back in without calibrating?
I I've never done it, but theoretically you could turn the key on, pull the actuator straight out, Mark the arm position, then check your arm motion, then put it back where it was, and then put the actuator back on, then turn the key off. In theory. I've never done it though. But it does make sense
What is worst case if ya can’t get the actuator back to where it should be? Won’t get worse than exhaust brake not working right?
@@mkleyn99 I think it would still work, but it would probably throw a code because it would be out of adjustment. Have to take it to the dealer to get it recalibrated. I don't know how much that cost. I know If you want to do it yourself the software is $500, if you watch the other two videos in my series, part two and three they go over that
Holshot turbos are such junk
Will a failing actuator cause the exhaust brake not to cut off once you begin to accelerate again? I’m getting P2262 code as well
I'm getting the same issue.
@@joewaun894 get it fixed?
I have this same issue, but it has put my truck into limp mode and I can’t go over 10mph.
@@chrismodlin483 did you get it fixed? I just picked up a 2010 that has 2262 and 2563 showing. Also went down to "limp" mode.
@@chrismodlin483 same here, ordered a new fleece cheetah turbo n acuator. Hope it fixes my problem. Did you fix yours. Hopefully mine comes out of limp mode
So I have this same code will it fix my problem or should I just get a new turbo
Im not positive but I think there are other triggers for that code. My buddies problem was not his turbo, but was his actuator. So if I were you I would try to rule out the actuator first, make sure you watch the other two videos in this series. The actuator is obviously the cheap thing compared to a new turbo. If you find out it is your actuator, you can get a replacement for about 500 bucks but then you need the special software or a dealer to calibrate it. Your other option is to buy the City Diesel actuator, it does not require any programming, but it's about 800 bucks I think.
Of course my worry was if I couldn't fix it in my driveway, I would have to swallow my pride and call the dealer or a diesel shop to tow it and have it fixed LOL
@@anesthesiadreamin okay imma pull the actuator off tomo and check it
@@jaedatrucker168OK, good luck! Double check me, but I believe you can remove your actuator and replace it without screwing up the timing IF you follow a couple steps: drain coolant, loosen actuator bolts but DONT remove them (keep actuator tight against the turbo bearing housing), turn your key on and KEEP it on, pull the bolts and the actuator straight off, note where the sector shaft is, make sure it moves through it's full range of motion (if it is not sticking problem is likely your actuator, if it is sticking or doesn't go thru the full range of motion problem is likely your turbo), put sector shaft back where it originally was, with bolts thru the actuator slide the actuator STRAIGHT on, tighten it down, key off, coolant in. IIRC this will not cause an error code but double check me. Also if your seal is bad get a replacement right away. please let me know how it goes, and what you find!
@@anesthesiadreamin thank you man for everything fr