Installing a Barn Door on a Master Bathroom
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2019
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In this video I go into more detail on installing a barn door using relatively inexpensive hardware and materials. Putting a barn door on a bathroom is something you should think about a little harder than other rooms for obvious reasons, but often when doing so in a master bedroom, the layout of the room can make it a workable option particularly if the bathroom is large and has a separate room where the toilet is located.
This installation is a part of a major master bath remodel that incorporates many very current design ideas for a homeowner who is very interested in 'minimalist' or what I like to call more 'industrial' designs. 
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I really appreciate the humility you showed when you installed the hardware behind the rail backwards. You are a great example and probably just saved me some time!
Thanks so much for your kind comments, Robin! I guess I feel like everyone who works with their hands on projects professionally or as DIYers knows that foul ups are an everyday part of it all. If it’s a part of the normal work flow, I don’t mind sharing my silly mistakes. Unfortunately, it seems the older I get, the more of these kind of things happen! Surely that’s not something to be concerned about, is it? 🙄 Glad I maybe saved you some time!
Thank you. This video gave me the confidence to take on this project for my own master bathroom's opening to the bedroom. Also, I appreciate Rusty's narration and manner of speaking.
Thanks, Lallu, and I'm glad you found the video helpful! There is definitely a learning curve for doing this and, as with anything, you better and faster every time you install your next barn door. Good luck and take it step by step. I bet you have the skills to go along with your confidence to pull this off!
@@RustyDobbs Want to echo lallu here as well. About to do the same myself to fix an improperly mounted barn door and will be using your video for reference. Thanks Rusty!
@@CtznofEternity Thanks, Andrew! Good luck!
Thanks for showing your technique and slip ups. That helps more than you know.
Thanks for watching, Karen and for your comments. Yes, I hear from people regularly that they appreciate seeing the problems that come up when doing projects, too! Dealing with those things is a part of the process too!
The best barn door install tutorial.....straight and to the point.
Thanks, Silver! I appreciate you watching!
Hello Rusty .... .excellent kitchen work, excellent bathroom work....excellent barn door.......sweet job....kind regards Danny UK 🇬🇧❤🇺🇸👍🙂
THANK YOU !!!! i have just finished installing my hanging door in the living room. I followed your video and found it to be EASY!!!!! Great video. your step by step was very easy to understand.
Glad you found the video helpful, Fatcat! Hey, your first time to do anything new is the hardest! You should really be on EASY street if you have other barn doors to do! 🙂
Fine job Sir. Thank you for sharing.
8:48 Like Paul on FabRats says " We do it nice, cause we do it twice.".
Thanks for watching, MagniKhan, and for your comment! I appreciate it!
Rusty, you have an awesome accent as you narrate your video. Thank you for sharing your experience and build.
Thanks for watching, Daniel! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video. Just what I needed to see to understand the installation. Thanks
Glad you found it helpful, James! Thanks for watching!
As always, good video. Thanks Rusty!!!
Thanks Danny! Heading to C-bad next month sometime to chase some 'blues'! They wear me out more and more each year as I try to keep up with them!
@@RustyDobbs I understand that! I was there chasing them last year and we limited out three days in a row. Don't know how the blue population is this year, but they were thick last year. Good luck and have a blast my friend! ! ! !
Great video! You’re very good at explaining details while keeping it simple. Went ahead and hit subscribe.
Thanks, SF! I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment and subscribe. Glad the video was helpful!
Thanks just got mine on my bedroom door love it so much.
That's great, Bernie! Glad it worked out well for you!
I too, was about to jump on the band wagon and critique this video then realized I lcouldnt do a better job so I better be quiet.. enjoyed the tutorial. Good video!
😀 Thanks for watching, Issac, and I appreciate your restraint! Some folks are not that way! If someone gets too obnoxious, my normal response is to encourage them to start their own RUclips channel and show us all how it's done. Most of the time that ends the conversation!
Thx Rusty, this is going to help as I am running a barn door over existing door frame trim and glad to see you show how you do it since all the distributor videos show bare walls! I also bought an 80 inch door not knowing I would be short and plan to add material to mine like you showed, but a little more difficult doing my oak finish thinking about a trim over the joint maybe like have round for desk edging or something. I am hoping I can line up studs with the bar at the top and the stock holes but wishful thinking I may have to do the header too to be safe.
Thanks for watching, MrMusic, and I appreciate your comment! Sounds like you have your situation pretty well figured out and I don’t have much to add except you will likely have a structural header over your door opening that may be of help if you can hit it with your bolts and then luck out on your layout and hit a stud with one of your other stock holes. Otherwise, the header boards work fine too. Good luck with your project!
Thank you for your time and efforts.. this was a great video!
Thanks for watching and for your comments!
Nice job I’m doing a barn door for a friend and your video is very helpful thanks
Glad to hear, Brian! Thanks for watching!
Very professional video and super informative
Glad it was helpful, Chief!
Wow, that's a lot of work. Definitely need to know what you're doing. Wish you could put in my doors.
It’s certainly something you want to give some thought to before you start, Christine! Hope you have some good workers to help you with your doors!
It was nice watching the installation. Good job! Everything turned out beautiful!
Thanks much for your comment, Yvonnie! Yeah, barn doors are a nice addition when installed in the right places and are not really needed for privacy. I appreciate you watching!
Outstanding work
Thanks for watching, Hoovglenn!
Great video - thanks I've learned a lot and will be more confident to try it myself (on our bathroom door).
Thanks for watching, Tobias! Good luck with your project!
Subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your well done videos! Great information and tips!
Hey, thanks so much, Kelvin! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Thank you for 'down to point' & explaining greatly.
We recently purchased house built in 1800s & teaching ourselves! Exactly what I've been looking for! Subscribed!
Thanks for watching and subscribing, J! Sounds like a fun project you are taking on. Feel free to give me a shout if you run into something you want another opinion about. I do it all the time. You can email me at rusty@dobbsworkshop.com.
Thank you for the video, you cleared up some basic questions. I definitely appreciate your honesty, admitting there are always gonna be things, that just don't go the way we plan.
Rarely do things go completely the way we plan, Steve! 🙄 But the more we work with our hands and learn to do things like this, the more we realize that a part of the challenge is anticipating the mistakes and minimizing their impact on the flow of the project as a whole. The best craftsmen are really good at still making things work out when things don't go the way we plan! Thanks for watching and for your comment!
Thank you for the tips 🎉
Thanks for watching, Junior!
Awesomeness ! Very well done
Thank you, Jo Qu! I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for the insight!
You're welcome, Barbara! Thanks for watching!
Great video. I am fixing to hang a barn door in the master bed room from Signature Hardware. The door is vintage and very heavy and long so the weight and the sheetrock will be an issue. Fingers crossed.
Good luck with that, Elroy! Sounds like a good challenge. Hit plenty of studs! 🙂
Thanks for the informative video. I will be starting my project tomorrow. I found that there is a continuous stud running in my wall at 96" up, which is for the ceiling on the other side of the wall. So, I am not using a header board, and mounting the track to the wall directly. I wish I had that laser level! After the track is up, I will build my two doors, which are going to be solid pine, and about 93" tall. The part that I have to learn is the staining / weathering of them.
With the look of that bathroom you did, I would have chosen a different style door, probably a 5 lite frosted glass and painted it to match those countertops.
Good luck on your project, Jim! Sounds like you have a good handle on what you want to do. Yes, pine is a difficult wood to get the look you want out of. The choice of this door style was made because it matches all the other interior doors in the house. Your idea for a more decorative door to match the countertop would also be a great idea. Thanks for watching!
Amazing job!
Thanks for watching, Kathy!
Very helpful and informative
Thanks, Dr! I appreciate you watching!
If the track hardware on the barn door is perfectly level the door will not glide open, the door will glide open in this manner the same way a marble will travel across a floor that does not have a perfectly level subfloor, or perfectly level trusses. The draw on the air conditioning system will be able to escape/ vent around the doorframe opening, and the door will not glide with a solid core wood door.
Yes, Tom, the weight of the door is one of the key dynamics in how the door will function after installation. Good point!
This is awesome.
It would have been helpful to see you installed the bottom rail. Great video with great explanations. Thank you.
Yeah, Jas, that was one of those times that you start editing footage and realize that you didn’t shoot any about one part of a project, in this case, the hardware installation at the bottom of the door! That happens sometimes! Thanks for your comments and for watching!
Great video! Thanks
I appreciate you watching, Audrey!
Thanks.. Your video was great help to me
Thanks Robert! Glad that helped and I appreciate you watching!
Nice job.
Thanks Richard! I appreciate you watching!
Good stuff.. Thank you…
Thanks, Sergey! I appreciate you watching!
Love it!!!…😊❤️👍
Thanks for the comment, Geo, and for watching! 🙂
Thank you for your honesty with the hub installed in reverse. You obviously are confident in your craftsmanship to do that. Also maybe the other door that slid open was because the surface of the earth at the equator moves at a speed of 460 meters per second--or roughly 1,000 miles so maybe centrifugal force and really low friction hardware was playing a part : )
Thanks for watching Lancelot! Now you have me wondering how I keep from being slung out into space myself! Maybe I shouldn’t worry about eating an extra cookie or two in the evenings! 🙂
Awesome video. How would you adjust for the gap on the door and frame? I want to do that for my guest bathroom.
Thanks, Elissa! That gap is initially determined by the design of the hardware that you buy. So, to move the door closer to the door frame, you need to adjust the hardware installation closer to the wall. For example, if you do away with the header board and install the rail into the studs, you move the door 3/4 inch closer to the frame. But the studs may not cooperate layout wise with the location of holes in your rail. You can also cut out the sheetrock and install your header board directly against the studs, which would pick up 1/2 inch for you. All that gets a little trickier than what I did in the video but it’s not a big deal to do. That’s the only thing about barn doors that’s a little bit of a negative. If privacy is a bigger issue, like it would be on a guest bathroom door, you do need to plan for that. You can also oversize the door another couple of inches larger than the door opening which will help too. Hope it works out for you!
Nice!
Thanks, Sonia!
look simple i like it
Yeah, it is a nice look, Raksa. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I was wondering if it's possible to install the barn door mechanism if I have these old Victorian casting around the openings ?
Yes, Celine, you just need open access to a section of wall above the door opening to securely mount the barn door rail to the wall. There are lots of creative ways to accomplish that depending on the situation.
80 inch doors work just fine make finish opening height 79-1/4 tall.
Hi Rusty, so I'm getting ready to install a barn door on my master bathroom as well. I know you talked about the gap between the door and molding and it wasn't a big a deal. I was wondering to get the gap a little tighter could you recess the bolts holding the rail in place?
Hi Mathew. The bolts have spacers that slide over them so that the rail is suspended at a consistent distance from the wall and headerboard after installation. I guess you could recess those spacers into the headerboard some but I would be concerned that going too deep would weaken the installation pretty significantly. My preference would be to recess the headerboard into the wall so that it mounts directly against the studs. You pick up 1/2” by removing the sheetrock which actually improves the strength of the installation. A little more work involved in repair and paint, but that is a good solution to shrinking the gap. Hope that helps! Good luck on your project!
Hey rusty this is james nice video
Hey, James! Nice to hear from you and I hope all is going well!
GREAT Videos. No easy effort, so Thank you for that.
"Maybe" its only taste......but on both your Barn Doors, the Top of the stock door was only a fraction of an inch to low, the eye wants to see that door level with the top of the existing molding. So adding a strip on top really took from the "look" for me.
I think adding the necessary strips to the bottom would be less noticeable.
Lining up the top of the door/molding may require a slight adjustment to both rail height and roller placement on door.
Thanks for your comments, Ph Dr! “The eye” that you are relying on is much more particular than the one that I (eye?) rely on! 😀 I certainly understand your perspective. You might enjoy this video I made recently to build barn doors completely from scratch. Now that is the way to go to eliminate the kinds of issues you are referring to! Thanks for watching!
Building a Custom Barn Door Out of Hardwood - ruclips.net/video/NJq-4juPNE0/видео.html
Hi Rusty, this is a great video. I finished installed a pair of 30" wide barn doors for my laundry and sure enough the doors don't stay open. Can you tell me what magnets you used on the first installation for the parent's bathroom barn door which slide open b/c of A/C vent? Thanks a bunch.
Hi Christine. These days I buy magnets from Hobby Lobby (typically 3/4" or 1" round) as needed. There's not a specific type I buy and I kind of gauge their strength in the store while holding packages of them together. It doesn't take a real strong magnetic field to hold the doors in position, I have found. So you can tape magnets in place on your doors and trim to see the results before you do anything permanent. In our video on barn doors about a year ago, we installed double doors on a laundry room which sounds like your installation. We added magnets on the door edges as well to hold them together when closed which worked out well too. Good luck! Trial and error works out pretty well with magnet placement.
Amazing work! I've watched both your videos and they are inspiring me to put up a sliding barn door as a solution in my own home. I am going to use this exact mechanism for the sliding hardware. My concern is the gap from the wall to the door. What thickness of door would you recommend to eliminate or reduce that gap? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Minal! In order to minimize the gap between the wall and the door, you need to think in terms of how you can mount the rail as close as possible to the wall in your final installation. If you can get away with not installing a header board for the rail to bolt to, that can move your door significantly closer to the wall just with that modification. But that means you have to have studs or other wood structure in the wall to attach the rail to. So each situation has its own set of circumstances that dictate what you can do to achieve your purpose which is to increase privacy by getting the door as close as possible to the wall after final installation. So take a look at your job and see what your options are, then think creatively about how best you can mount your rail. Not sure I helped you much but hopefully you get a sense of what I’m talking about.
@@RustyDobbs thank you for breaking it down so well. You've read my mind. I thought of attaching the rail directly to the studs behind the wall. No header board. It may be a possibility. I'm also considering changing the door jam if needed. I will need to test it out and do the math once the kit comes in tomorrow. I am really excited about the idea of the sliding barn door.💡 I just need to make sure it translates well sure. Wish me luck! 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼
Question, did your customer request to install any weather stripping to help dapen sound coming from inside the bathroom? if so please let me know what you did, thanks.
No, John, the question never came up but it is a good one to keep in mind when deciding how appropriate a barn door is for a particular application. This was for a master bathroom that had a separate room with a door where the toilet was installed. I don’t have any great ideas on how to make a barn door more soundproof. You could try it with weatherstripping or other products, but I think it would be difficult to keep those materials from showing. Barn doors are a trendy thing these days, but they are not functionally as good as regular doors.
Thanks man. This is going to help as I need to fix a poor contractor install (no header!). Other than long construction screws or deck screws what adhesion material did you use between the wood header and the drywall? I heard you say silicone but can you be specific? Ty!
Yeah, Jared, I have found that regular old clear silicone caulk that has been around forever is about as good as it gets as an adhesive for most regular construction materials. Obviously, there are lots of other products like Liquid Nails, etc. that work great as well. We buy silicone caulk cartridges by the dozen so it is always handy and as a result is my go to adhesive. Glad the video helped and thanks for watching!
Can I cut the track shorter? I'm planning to make a bifold barn door. My walls are made up of cement and the old door frame and door was eaten by termites and also floodwater damaged it last December.
It's also not a standard size so I guess that's the fix i can think of. Installing a full barn door would cover most my small bedroom wall beside the door which has also has the rocker type switches. I'm planning to add more shelves bedside that's why maybe a bi fold will do the trick
Sure, Puff, you can do pretty much anything in remodeling that works and accomplishes what you are trying to accomplish. Sounds like you have some challenging things about your wall that will require a little creativity!
Nice video..I’m looking to do a stand up walk-in show that is curbless so it’s wheelchair friendly, with a single sliding barn glass door. How do I keep water in the shower. The glass would slide over an exterior solid wall.
Hey, Mike. The only way I have ever done curbless showers is to lower the shower floor so that it slopes from the concrete slab finished floor height down to the floor drain which is also lowered so the shower floor is custom built with sand and cement from scratch. I have seen vinyl strip barriers that are mounted to the floor where the step would normally be that a wheelchair can roll over, but have never used them. Certainly doable but is custom project.
I think I would have taken the top peice of casing off and lowered my door and and not have to add. Would it have worked in your case or no? Curious.
That might be an alternative, Norman, but might look kind of weird as I think about it. Of course, you may not like the look of pieces added to the top and bottom of the door either. If money is not a concern, the ideal solution is to build the door to the size needed. I have a video called “Building a Custom Barn Door Out of Alder…” that shows that process. Makes a great looking barn door.
Nice work! I'm planning to add a barn door for my office room. But I'm having hard time to decide which side should I install the barn door. Any advise?
I like the look of the hardware and the door together so I would install on the most prominent or visible side of your doorway. If your office is in a hallway, I would install inside the office because the door sticks out a couple of inches from the wall. Beyond that, I would think about it from the standpoint of which side may be a simpler install. If you like the barn door look, which you obviously do, you'll be happy either way you go. Good luck!
Also can you give my advice on a door sticking when trying to open thks.
Yes, lots of times doors stick because they have sagged at the top a little over time. If you pull one of the short screws that hold the top door hinge to the door frame and run a long wood screw of the same diameter through that hole and tighten it into the wood framing in the wall behind the door frame, that will remove the sag. If you’re lucky that will solve your problem. Otherwise, you have to look for where the door is sticking and troubleshoot the best way to compensate for that.
Im trying to install one over an Archway.
I'm having a hell of a time finding studs over the arch. Are studs typically found over an arch way?
My kit came with zip ties anchors for drywall, but I've never used them.
Ever seen or used ziptie drywall anchors for a barn door?
Yes, Nick, the framing over your archway should be typical framing for a regular doorway. The arch is normally framed in as an addon so some stud and header material should be above the arch somewhere. If I’m understanding your description of the zip tie anchors, they are just fancier versions of the old toggle bolts. They work well but it is also hard to beat a regular toggle bolt in sheetrock! Good luck on your install!
@@RustyDobbs
Yes, they're toggle bolts.
Thank you for the information. My stud finders seem to struggle to find studs over the archway.
@@RustyDobbs
So,
You agree that toggle bolts in drywall, (if needed and no other option) would be able to support a barn door?
The toggle bolts claim they can support 225lbs individually...which seems like alot
Rusty great video! Thanks for sharing.
Was the block window part of the renovation or was that already installed?
Thanks so much, Jonathan! No, the glass block window was a part of the original construction and is a pretty common feature in homes in my area.
@@RustyDobbs I want to renovate my master bath with a lot of the features you are showing. And I want to update the window to a block window. That's why I was asking.
Hello!! What size is the lag bolt that you are using to screw in the header ??? I am having a hard time finding that information! My rail hardware I ordered did not come with any bolts or recommendations of the size of bolts I need. Please let me know what you recommend. My barn door is heavy ... the header I am using is a 1x4 pine wood. And the studs behind my wall are 2x4s. Also ... I noticed the lag bolts Hve a thick top(unlike regular screws). Are the think ropa supposed to stick out of the header board? Or are they supposed to be screwed in tight enough to be flush with the board. I am new to this so hopefully my wording makes sense..
Hi Angie! I’m sorry you are having some challenges with your hardware. I hate to tell you this, but I have never ordered hardware that did not come with all the bolts and pieces necessary to complete the installation. With you comment that the door is heavy, I would be cautious about trying to piece together an incomplete set of hardware. For the past several years, I have ordered all my barn door hardware from Amazon and have been very pleased with the prices and quality. Instructions that came with the hardware have been good and all parts included. Sorry to encourage you to see if you can return your first purchase and try again, but would hate to see your installation not hold up over time. All the parts and installation processes in the video kind of need to be there to make sure the installation is solid. Hope that helps. 🙄
Thanks Rusty. What and where did you get the black barndoor hardware?
Straight from Amazon, Jan! Search for "barn door hardware" and you will be in business. I don't shop for a particular brand because there are a multitude of manufacturers and I have never been disappointed with anything I have ordered. I tend to buy a medium priced hardware kit based more on color and finished needed. I continue to be surprised at the relative high quality of the hardware for reasonable prices. I'll probably get burned one of these days, but haven't been so far! Thanks for watching, Jan!
Rusty this is amazing could you please tell me the company that you bought that exact frame hanger slider set from I want that exact color and style....
Here you go, Michael. I have had great experiences buying my hardware on Amazon. Good luck with your door!
SMARTSTANDARD 6.6 Feet Brushed Nickel Sliding Barn Hardware Kit-Sturdy Silvery Track-Smoothly and Quietly-Simple and Easy to Install-Fit 36"-40" Wide Door Panel (I Shape Hanger)
Great video! We installed a barn door covering a hallway, the opening is 35", door is 36". When shut you can see into the bedroom through both edges of the door. It's not the look we wanted! Barndoor is to give privacy to guests going from the bedroom into the bath. It doesn't. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Maureen! Yeah, your issue is that the door is not wide enough for the opening which I’m sure you have figured out. I typically shoot for 2 inches overhang on each side of the door, so generally my barn door covers the trim of the door frame on each side. So for your 35 inch opening, I would have a 39 inch wide door minimum. You could add material to the sides of the door like I did to the top and bottom of the door in this video which would be probably the simplest practical fix. If you or your family members have a pretty good skill level working with tools, this approach would probably work out ok. Another option would be to try a 40 inch door which would solve your problem and involve less carpentry work. Good luck with your fix!
@@RustyDobbs Thanks!
Hi Rusty! Great video and the overall bathroom remodel looks great! What type of wood should the header board be? Any specific size/ dimensions you recommend for it?
Thanks Carlos! I appreciate you watching! A 1”x 6” piece of pine works just fine, typically. If you measure the length of the bar for your barn door and add about 4” to that (2” overhang on each end), that generally gives a nice look.
Do you happen to have a link of the hardware you used for this one? Most hardware won't work for where I need it, but this one would!
Here is the description straight from Amazon, Laura. “SMARTSTANDARD 6.6 FT Nickel Brushed Heavy Duty Sliding Barn Hardware Kit, Single Rail, Silver, Smoothly and Quietly, Simple and Easy to Install, Fit 36"-40" Wide Door Panel” I have been buying all my hardware from Amazon for the past couple of years and have been very happy with all those purchases. Hope that works out for you!
Could you please tell me how thick the header board is in inches and where you got it possibly? I am doing this for the first time and I need to know where can I buy the header and if I could just use a 2 x 4 x 96 inches or if I need something different. Thanks
Good luck with your project, Xemption! The header board I'm using would be considered a 1x6, so it's thickness would be 3/4". That's about as thick as you would want to go because once your rail and rollers are installed on the header against the wall, that puts your door about 1/2" away from the door trim which is the most you really want. So a 2 x 4 would make your door hang about an 1" to 1 1/4" from the door trim which you don't want. I hope that makes sense! I think I bought a 1 x 12 for this job and it was purchased at Lowe's. Then I cut it down to the width I wanted for the header. The length depends on the size of your door. This is one of those things that once you work through the process one time, you start to get a better idea of how it all works and realize that it's really not that difficult. Anyway hope my comments help!
Rusty, great video! What did you use for a handle on the inside?
Thanks, gimme60! That handle on the outside has a matching flat plate on the inside of the door and it has a recessed area in the center for your fingers to slide the door open. Pretty nice design! I picked it up off Amazon for about $20.
are you lag bolts holding the rail anchored in stud also or just the header board ?
The header board is definitely screwed to studs, Denis. If the lag bolts also hit a stud, it was pure luck!
Hi there, awesome video! Planning to build my own barnyard door soon. I was wondering if this was correct: Given that the headboard is screwed into the studs, the lag bolts for the hardware of the door will go through the headboard and into the drywall behind it. Since we now have the headboard acting as a stud, the lag bolts will still be tight and secure even though the ends of them go through into the dry wall. Just wanted to clarify on that, thanks!
Thanks, Duolez! Yeah, you have a good understanding of what is going on. The one thing to keep in mind though is the weight of the door. In this case, the door is hollow core so it is very light weight and the downward pressure it is putting on the lag bolts is minimal. If I were using a really heavy door, I would have more concern about the issue you are raising. The way I would address that would be to pick a few locations where the lag bolts go through the headboard and sheetrock, cut holes in the sheetrock large enough to put 2x4 blocks for backing behind the sheetrock. The headerboard should be wide enough to cover the holes you cut so there would be no sheetrock repair needed. I've never run into a situation where I have had to do that, but that is how I would handle it if it ever came up. Good luck with your project!
Rusty Dobbs Great! Thanks for taking the time to reply to me!
Nice job but...what is used for a “handle” on the inside to open the door? My solid core door and kit came with nothing and was silent in the instructions about the topic. Odd I thought for the serious cost involved.
Yeah, Rex, I have had to buy the handles separately from the barn door hardware as well. Amazon has a good selection in the $10-$20 range. The inside barn door handles that I use are flat metal plates that mount with two screws and have an offset from the edges that is recessed so your fingers have something to grip.
That's pretty much my opinion also. Pocket door hardware seems to work the best on both sides for me
Very helpful video, I'm getting ready to install two barn doors in my home. Was that a 1x6x? Header board?
Yes it was, Jon. I actually bought a 1x12 and cut it to size. Good luck on your doors! After installing two of them, you'll be able to make your own videos! 😀
@@RustyDobbs Hell, No! Racording & editing the videos would be harder and more time consuming then putting up the doors. Plus I don't think people want to see a guy with no legs climbing up and down a ladder installing header boards and tracks. Some of the ways I have to adapt may by a little risky.
@@stmpdog1906 Watching you adapt to the challenges you face in taking on projects like this might be exactly what a lot of people need to see to help them realize what they are capable of, Jon! Congrats on your great attitude and drive! Might also help me to quit whining when my 65 year old aging body is aching!
Glad I found your channel. I heard you mention Abilene in one of you shower floor videos. Are you still near the area? I’m just up 20 in Midland. Finishing up a metal building at our place in Cloudcroft NM and I’m going to build in a 20x40 apartment. I’m looking forward to doing all I can myself. Take care, sure enjoying watching.
Hey Steve! Thanks for your comment! No, I've been in Albuquerque for about 30 years now but went to college at Hardin Simmons in Abilene before moving back to New Mexico. Abilene is where I learned the basics of the construction business through some very random opportunities that came up. I know Midland/Odessa well and have had dealings there over the years too. I was born and raised in Carlsbad so also spent time in Cloudcroft growing up. Good luck with your projects and it's terrific to hear that you enjoy working with your hands. Few things are more rewarding than creating things out of piles of materials! Great to hear from you and glad you stumbled onto my channel! I appreciate you watching!
Rusty Dobbs one more quick question. I’ve seen others pack gravel around the floor flange and dry pack over it. Is that required or necessary? It looked like you just dry packed the whole way, I could have missed that if you didn’t...
Steve
The short answer is yes, you can use gravel around the weep holes on the drain. I think the drain manufacturers recommend doing that now on the instructions attached to drains. 40 years ago when I was learning to do this, there were no instructions that came with the same type of drains we use today. The old tile guys who taught me, did not think it was a great idea. The premise for doing it is that the weep holes can clog up if the dry pack is packed into them, so the gravel helps keep the weep holes clear. My reply to that is that the whole idea behind dry pack is that water can easily pass through it to get to the shower pan and to the weep holes, but now I'm supposed to be concerned that the dry pack is going to act differently and not allow water through at the weep holes? That's what some people say. Now, I do not pack the dry pack in as tightly around the base of the drain where the weep holes are as I do on the rest of the floor because it's not necessary, so in that sense I am leaving less compressed dry pack around the weep holes and that is essentially addressing the concern raised for using gravel. With the increase in popularity of RUclips and the trades, the one trade where some seem to be trying to make it more complicated than it is, is tile setting. I think I understand why and I don't really see it happening in other trades. I appreciate the people who make videos and show their skills in setting tile and it is obvious that many of them know what they're doing. I don't appreciate those who don't make videos about setting tile, yet comment about it like they are the experts and it's something approaching brain surgery, which it is not. That's the long answer to your question, Steve!
Instead of buying a new door, what challenges are there with using the original door. I understand that you'd have to repair the holes left from the original hardware, but will the size not work?
Hi Rania! To keep from being able to see into the bathroom the barn door needs to be about five inches wider than the door opening to overhang each side by about 2 1/2 inches. It also needs to be about three inches taller than the opening. Those pieces of wood can be added to the sides and top and bottom of an old door and it will work. If I am buying a door for a barn door use, I will buy a stock door of the width I need and add pieces to the top and bottom which is what I did in this video. Hope that helps!
My open-door space is 39x84, but the only size I see for sale is eight 38 or 40. Should I go up a size or down?
Ideally, you want your door size to be about 4 inches wider than your door opening to adequately cover the opening and provide privacy. The hardware rail needs to be twice the length of the door width approximately to let the door slide completely open and be clear of the opening. Hope that helps!
What keeps the door from flopping around if it's only secured on top . I have toddlers and I'm sure they or other people will try and pull door open. Will that miss align door ? Or will it fall off and hurt them is my biggest question????
Yes, James, there are a couple of approaches used to keep the door tracking at the bottom. One is cutting a slot in the bottom of the door for a straight, rigid fin to rest in. The fin is attached to the floor. The other is a "U" shaped bracket that attaches to the floor and the door rides in it. A final step in the installation process is to attach a couple of bumpers to the top of the door that are placed under the rail. Their purpose is to keep the door from bouncing off the rail as it is opened and closed. When installed properly, the door cannot be removed without first removing the bumpers. Most moderately priced barn door hardware comes with all the parts and instructions needed to install the doors properly and safely. For the past several years, I have purchased all my hardware from Amazon. The pricing has been reasonable and I haven't had a problem with any of them. Hope that helps!
Hello SIr! I am planning to make a barn door for the house I am renovating. And here in the Philippines it is hard to get the that kind of hardware. Do you have some suggestions on how I go about it?
Thank you for the video sir.
I always go online to Amazon here in the States, EC, and they have all kinds of brands that are very reasonably priced. My guess is that most of them are made in China. The hardware is available in stores like Lowe’s and Home Depot here and online on their websites. Sorry I can’t be much help beyond that. Good luck and I hope you find a source!
I see in both videos you mention the height and width that needs to be added to the 'oversized door'. For the height it looks like 4 inches; what is the width to be added?
Probably a good rule of thumb, Scott, would be to measure the distance between the outside edges of your trim around the door frame. In other words you want at least a couple of inches of overhang beyond the opening on each side of the door when it's closed so if your door covers the trim entirely, that's the minimum with you would probably want.
How did you do the groove at the bottom piece? Router with rabbeting bit?
I'm thinking I ran the bottom piece through the table saw to cut the groove because that would just be easier in this case, Nasar. But the router method would have worked fine as well. When I am making mirror frames for 1/4" mirrors, I always use a router and rabbet bit for that process and make a couple of passes to get the depth and width correct to fit the mirror. If I can accomplish a cut with a table saw, I will generally try that first.
I’m tackling this project tmrw night and I need to buy the header board, but my main question is, how many holes out of the 5 on the rail are actually drilled into the studs? The rail holes are 17 3/4 apart I believe.
Is it just the header board that needs to be drilled into the studs?
Yeah, TX, the rail holes are not all that helpful in trying to hit studs with the bolts. In most cases, the header board screwed into studs, then the rail bolted to the header board should give you enough strength to support an average weight door. Above the door frame, you should also have structural header that most likely all the bolts for the rail will hit through the header board. You can just poke around with a small drill bit in the sheetrock behind where the header board will be mounted to get the locations of studs and structural headers. Congrats on taking on the challenge! The second time you install a barn door, you will do it in half the time of this one! 🙂 That's just the way it works!
Rusty Dobbs one last question, for the door guide, I have vinyl planks that rest on concrete floors. Do I need to use the guide still? I’ve seen videos of wood floors only for the guide.
Thanks for the quick response
Maybe paint the header board before hanging it and the rail as you really don’t want to remove the rail after it’s been mounted into the header. Just a suggestion.
Rusty would the door clear quarter round on the base
I’ve got an install and floor has quarter round
Do you think the door will hit the quarter round on the base
Cheers
It should clear ok depending on how far your hardware holds the door away from the wall. You could bevel or round over the inside bottom door edge a little to help with clearance at the quarter round as needed. Lots of ways to address that issue depending on how your installation goes. Good luck!
I make my own doors custom for openings
How do they open the door from inside the bathroom? Is there some sort of handle or do they just palm the actual door itself?
Yes, with this installation the handle on the outside of the door has a matching flat plate with some contour for opening from the inside.
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Can u use original door solid wood 100 or old door. And want link do you use to buy the tract thks
Yes, Maxe, you can use any type of door that fits your opening and hardware. I have had good luck with hardware from Amazon. Have two sets arriving tomorrow for a job that I have not used before. Great price, hopefully good quality. Here is the description from Amazon- Skysen 5FT Heavy Duty Sliding Barn Door
You said you can't ever seem to get it just right the first time. Don't fret brother; usually takes me to the 7th or 8th!
I'm with you, Jim! That's why if you look around my shop and run across dents in the sheetrock, those happen after about the 3rd or 4th foul up when something gets thrown! Thanks for watching!
I am a novice woodworker so bear with me on this question: What size and type screw should I use to hang the header?
Hey Chris! Typically, I like screws to sink into the studs about 1 1/2” to 2” deep, so the overall length of the screws should be about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. #8 size screw also works fine. I like to use a 1/4” countersink bit to create the hole for the screw that I can place a 1/4” plug or button in after the screw is in place to finish it off. I also put silicone caulk on the back of the header board against the sheetrock. Thanks for the question and good luck with your project! Glad it sounds like you're taking on the challenge!
My room is very small so I would like to try this with my bedroom door. I would have to hang the door in the inside of the room because there is no space for the door to slide on the outside of the room because there is a wall. Would this work for me having the door slide on the inside of the room?
Yes, it would still work fine functionally. Most people like the look of the barn door on the outside of the room because it is stylish and the full door will be seen, but it is ok to have it inside your room. It sounds like that is your only option. Just make sure your door is wide enough when closed to block the view of people outside the room for privacy. Because the door hangs away from the wall, the door needs to be about 2 1/2 inches wider minimum than the door opening on each side of the door to block the view from people outside of your room. So the door is 5 inches wider overall than the door frame opeining. Hope that makes sense! Good luck with your installation!
Rusty, Is there a door guide at the bottom (Or is one needed)?
Yes there is, Scott, and one is definitely needed. I cut a slot for it in the bottom of the door. It is just a plastic tab with a mounting bracket that attaches to the floor. It is provided with the barn door hardware. Thanks for watching!
Love it , where did you buy barn door and hardware?
I have had great luck with Amazon over the past couple of years, Elena. They have a large variety of barn door hardware at good prices. This door came from Lowes and was about $30. Thanks for watching!
Hi
Isn't there a gap created between the door and the casing even when it is fully closed
Yes there is, Ashwin. There are ways to minimize the gap but it will never seal as well as a regular door will. That’s why it’s a good idea to only use barn doors in areas where privacy is not a big concern. A barn door on a guest bathroom next to a dining room or living room is not a good decision!
Did you mount the rail screws on stud or is not necessary?
Using the header board like I did in this video, you want to make sure to hit studs when attaching it to the wall, Pedro. Then you can mount the rail with rail screws going into the header board. Hitting a stud with one of the rail screws would be pure luck although it would not be unusual to hit a structural header in the wall framing above the door.
Would it be better to have added the two inches at the bottom of the door instead of on top? Did you need more width?
It's pretty much up to you to decide what looks best to you in your own situation, Carina. I wanted the solid material at the top of the door for installing the hardware into something more substantial so that's one reason I added to the top. I was able to buy a door the width I needed which is easier than finding one the height you need for the typical barn door installation.
you mentioned liking this hardware better than the first.. do you happen to have the link for those? my biggest fear is the hardware being cheap
Yeah, Scott, I understand your concern. Honestly, since this job I have bought a number of barn door hardware packages on Amazon in the mid price range and have been totally satisfied with them all. Seems like the companies are different every time I look for hardware. Pricing has always been very reasonable, so I have been very happy with my purchases in the past few years. Seems like even though the brands change, packaging and parts are usually very similar if not the same. Good luck!
I don't quite understand why you added the wood piece to the top of the door instead of just lowering the rail. Also, why not a 1x4 instead of the 1x6 behind the rail?
I want the door to be tall and wide enough to cover all the trim on the sides and the top of the door jamb when the door is closed, Glenn. So I split the difference between the length I need to add and put half that amount on bottom and half on top. It’s just a personal preference. Same idea for the 1x6 instead of a 1x4. I like a little beefier look! I don’t often see Glenn spelled with two n’s so I tended to take note. My Dad was a Glenn, spelled with two n’s as well! Thanks for watching.
What kind of wood did you use for your backer?
It’s just a piece of 1”x12” pine cut to length and width for the needed dimension, Mark. Nothing special. I bought if from Lowes.
how do you deal with the frame with door hinges taken off?
In this case, we had to move the door opening during the bathroom remodel process so we reframed this door jamb with new material, Jackie. When using the old jamb with hinges removed, you do the best you can. You can take a trim router and cut clean lines for inserting new wood where the hinges were, which is pretty good chore and may look ok. The easiest method is to fill the areas with painter’s putty or wood filler and repaint/restain, but that does not end up looking too good. The best approach is to reframe the jamb.
Are you close to Alabama? My wife and I would love to have you come fix a few of these for our house!
Sorry about that, Jared! Live half the country away in NM.
Perfect for halloween 🤦🙊😅😁👋
Ok, Kim... I've tried to make the connection, but I come up with nothin! Glad it struck a chord with you! 😬
Can wall anchors take the place of studs?
That would depend on the weight of the door, Sjaubi. In this particular installation, if I had no studs that I could screw to, because the door is very light weight, I could have use silicone caulk or other adhesive to attach the header board to the drywall and some type of wall anchors in the drywall and header board as well. That likely would have held up fine. Realistically, there has to be some type of structure behind the drywall to attach it to, typically studs. You should have the opportunity to attach the header board to that structure in some way.