Seriously appreciating all your DIY videos. Just saved 5000 dollars by watching your videos. Unlimited Monetary policies just made the stealership and Indy shops even more sketchy. It’s not about affordability it’s just pure disgust when knowing a simple job they would rip you off 4-500 percent. You made us rover owners feel confident in our cars again.
I totally agree. The National Automobile Dealers Association has released data showing that dealerships profits are 26 % on new car sales, 25% on used car sales, and 49% from the parts and service department 🙄
I havent even got a car (I live in London, drive a local bus and have a racing bicycle) but I find your videos on range rover air suspension videos most instructive for when I win the lottery and buy one of these iconic vehicles.
I own a small car dealership. I'm constantly searching RUclips videos for random repairs across all makes and models...I wish you had a video for all my cars problems! Your videos are pretty much the best I have seen! 5 stars!
EXCELLENT Video. You did a great job explaining the proper connection for each air tube. I have been searching for couple days and you have been the only one to have such a great video with outstanding clear and concise images. Thank you
Great video, thank you. I live in Wisconsin and my drivers side air bags were not raising the truck, only the passenger side. So along my way home that evening I had a loud BOOM that’s ounces like it came from the rear passenger side air bag. It sounded as if it popped. Now it was 5-10 below zero this night so I’m thinking that that’s what help cause these issues.
Hi Hazy, My issue is the front lifts and goes down while I drive for example if I lift off quick the front goes up and red light comes on, and then when I brake the front end goes down, I’ve changed Compressor as the old one failed now compressor works but I’m getting error code c1a13-64 (pressure does not decreases when venting gallery) I have also realised front left goes down a tiny bit when car sits for 2-3days. Your videos are absolutely brilliant.
Hi! Thank for your videos! They are very helpful. I'm hoping you can help with an problem we're having with our 2008 RRSS. The brief version of the saga is - soon after we bought it last year, we started having occasional then regular suspension fault issues. Stopping and restarting would re-engage the system. The error messages included suspension fault, the car will raise when cooled, the car is raising slowly, limited engine performance, and check spare tire pressure. The car sagged on the front passenger side. About 3 months ago the suspension failed and the front end wouldn't raise at all. We weren’t in a position to repair or stop driving it and one day the problem seemingly disappeared for about 2 weeks. After it failed it again functioned after a month for 10 days. A month later the back end is now really low as well. And finally, there is a hose in the very front which is just hanging. We think it's the air suspension hose. Though I know very little about RRs it seems likely that whatever the original problem was there are probably other issues resulting from the unfortunate but necessary use of the car since the suspension started failing. If you have any thoughts or suggestions I would greatly appreciate hearing them. Many thanks! Lucy
If it fails on COLD days, it's likely a low voltage battery and the battery needs replacing. This will cause all sorts of errors including transmission faults, suspension faults, and engine performance faults. Worse on cold days. If it's not the battery, then it's not uncommon for the compressor to fail, this often displays "suspension fault, normal height only" shortly after starting the car that goes away with restarting. Personally, I swapped my air suspension with regular coil springs, costs around $1500 but you never have any suspension faults again.
I can't thank you enough for this great video, I have 2016 l405 are the suspension parts the same and in similar locations. My 2016 has dropped front end the dealer suspect the front valve , replacing it will cost about $2k, and I think that is just outrageous
@@HazyJay Yeah I did actually watch that video too. I did the diagnostics overnight and it made sense that it would be the front valve. Even my mechanic had a look at it when he did my timing belt service and said yep that would be it. Might be a hose I'm guessing..., maybe somewhere i can't get to
Great video. I have followed your diagnosis and pulled the fuse and overnight the front left is dropping the most but also the rear left is dropping although not as much as the front. This has confused me as based upon your explanation they are fed by different valve blocks. Am I missing something or could it be that both the front and rear blocks have gone leaky at the same time?
If it's just one side it's either the left air springs have a slow leak or both solenoids, but you are correct in that they don't communicate so it can't be a single solenoid causing the front/rear left droop.
Hello, excellent video. My range rover sport lowers on the front two wheels overnight and only the back left wheel. Could you please give me your advice. Thankyou so much
Hi Hazy, thank you so much. Yes, removing the fuse seems to have stopped the air pump, however when I drove home it appears that it caused the power steering to tighten up. Is that normal or expected? Does that indicate that the 4-wheel drive has stopped? I'm also trying to purchase the module you mentioned for under the dashboard. Trying to locate one, can you tell me the specific name so that I can search? What's the name of your company so that we can bookmark you for future questions? Thanks Preston
It's strange that the power steering has tightened up, maybe double check the fuse and try removing the relay instead. Regarding the reflash software it actually comes with the springs from Atlantic British, you can buy it by itself but it's fairly pricy, maybe shop around: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-suspension-parts/7982K/. I'm actually not affiliated with any company but you can comment on a video and I will see it 👍
Mate, great videos... I have a question if the front & rear valve blocks can be interchanged..? I know they have different part # but I see the after-market ones selling as both the front & rear, confusing... what's your experience or knowledge from others..? cheers.
I love your videos they are really helpful. Could you please tell me if the front and rear valve blocks are interchangeable. I've ordered a new rear valve block and have since read on a forum that part number 000055 is front and 00000095 is rear. I need the front and have now realised the part number being sent is 0000095 which is rear and not 0000055 which is front and the one I need. Your advice would be gratefully received. Thank you
Thanks for the awesome video, you've helped me so many times. :-) I have a question - what experience do you have after these years with cheap parts like this valve? Or cheap made in China compressor? Everyone on the LR forums tells me it's not worth it, it won't last into warranty and I'll have to deal with it again.
The cheap ($100-$150) compressor will definitely fail early, so it's worth getting a real compressor (Hitachi). The other parts are hit or miss, but they're so cheap you can somewhat give them a try and see what happens like with the valve blocks.
nice video, i have a question, vehicle was fine then osr dropped,i pumped it up into high removed battery and left, no drop, then put it in normal and disconnected battery, osr dropped again?
EDIT: I've put new original valve block after finding very cheap offer on local market. It helps 100%. I also found that problably leak was on the thread. There are small metal, movable rings on the end of every thread that wedges the tube firm into the valve. Mine was cracked. Keep in mind you will not get them in repair oring kits. Pfte tape worked perfect also. Cheers. Hey, great vid. Should I put anything on the tubes nuts and screws when screwing it back to the new block? Like loctite 577? or maybe some thin ptfe sealing tape?
PTFE tape is a reasonable choice, it wont hurt anything, but ideally the o-ring on the voss connection will be doing most of the sealing. Seems like a good idea in case of o-ring failure.
@@HazyJay thanks for prompt answer. I found that there are many Chinese valve blocks that basicaly will cost me the same as oring set from 4x4airseals shop. Would you rather recommend new part or rebuilding oem block?
@@itsgoood I'd say just get a new block, I've seen a few people rebuild the block and still have problems that resolved with buying a new block. It will take the guess work out of the equation.
In my vehicle (2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4L V8) it's fuse F26 under the hood, but if that's interfering with steering you can try F3, or R7 which is the relay.
Hi I have issue with my LR4 my front suspensions goes down after parked over night and after 5 days rear goes down too Fault code is related to valve block But I can’t figure out which valve Block is giving my issue Is it front middle or rear ones ? Any idea where to start looking from thanks
What would think would be the cause of both front shocks not lifting? I hear the compressor running. The back is fine, but the front isn’t lifting at all, making for a terrible ride. I haven’t sprayed it down yet, but wasn’t sure if this is something you have ever dealt with. I hope to hear back from you!
The front solenoid could have become clogged with desssicant powder, usually if an issue is isolated to the front it's the fault of the front valve block. Given it's relatively inexpensive I think replacing it is a good first step to see if that resolved your issue 👌
I’m not sure if my 07 LR3 has an issue with a air shock or the valve block. I put it in off-road height but the front suspension will not reach full height. The rear does. I pulled the fuse and measured over night. Both the front left and front right seem to be dropping about the same an 1/2 every 120 minutes or so but after about 12 hours it was about 3 inches. The rear will go up or down as normal but the front will either raise slowly or not at all. Always an error every time I start the vehicle either right away or after 30 seconds. Air shock issue, height sensor or valve block issue?
Thanks for posting.. I have a 2008 Range Rover HSE the right side is lower and when car on you can hear hissing air. Is that automatically the Block to be replaced? Thanks
HI Changed my air struts and shocks with a conversion kit. How do I get the air to stop, I don't want to burn out the compressor which I no longer need?
You have two options. Some conversion kits come with a reflash module that you need to hardwire under the driver dash that will keep all 4x4 modes and remove any warnings, this is the best option. Alternatively, just disconnect the F26 fuse under the hood and see if that solves your issue, see here: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
Hello I have an issue. 2011 SC RRS. I’m getting a vehicle leaning detected after starting a drive. The issue disappears when shutting off the car I dont know where to start
Hi, I love the videos thanks. I have an Issue with my RRS 2010 TDV6, only when driving locally with many steering turns, suspension warning comes up with turn vehicle off. If i turn it off and on again, the car will rock side to side then it will be fine. Happens randomly, but never if I'm driving on a motorway, only local driving. Error code on diagnostic shows C1119-62 Hydraulic pressure. Also if i leave it parked for about 2 weeks, then i start it up i can hear it raising the suspension very slightly on the front. Any help and advice would be really appreciated. Thanks
any help got a c1130-66 (af) and this morning air spring supply to-many transitions, she was sitting fine though wiped it with a gap iid, left for twelve hours all still sitting fine got in drove it no problems still sitting correctly changed the modes up and down again all working fine sprayed the bags top and bottom for leaks nothing ? so think this mite be a fluke or is it gonna come back with a valve problem or bag? only thing i have noticed over the last twelve months is the bags when going up and down have become very noisy like crinkling sound when raising and lowering while i got this code i also got a u3000-13 (28) control module failure warning which i also wiped and never came back on any help would be great
brilliant videos!! would love to know where you also jacked the front end up before disconnecting airlines to the valve block.....could you reply here by any chance?
Mine has a small radiator behind that cover. I can’t seem to access this valve block without removing that first. Any thoughts? 2006 4.2SC. I’ve replaced both front struts and it still will sit front end down after a few hours.
Oh yeah the super charged version is a bit more tedious, here's a basic rundown. 1. Remove the grill 2. Remove the two head lights 3. Remove the top and bottom bumper screws 4. Remove the lower screws under the wheel wells that attach to the bumper. You do not have to remove the entire plastic wells. 5. Remove the fog light power connectors Please see: landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-sport-l320-2005-2013-58/front-air-suspension-valve-block-access-supercharged-97298/
@@HazyJay Perfect! Thanks for the link. A guy on there just removed inner wheel splash shield and then removed aux cooler and gained access without removing bumper. I'll definitely do that!
Quick question. Working on cleaning a valve block… one solenoid has a little corrosion on exterior part of shaft and exposed metal surface where orange oring would seat. Nothing that inhibits movement internally. Would that cause any connection or electrical issue on operating? Others just had a lot of white dust and seemed fine. My front is still sagging overnight after cleaning on some side.
Great video. I think I have a similar issue. When I park my car the front suspension instantly starts slowly dropping evenly on both sides till it hits the bumpstops. I can hear short bursts of air being vented somewhere a short hiss and then a few seconds later it does it again. Is this the air coming back from the block being vented?
It's possible it's the block, however, even if one of the front springs is leaking the vehicle will make intermittent adjustments to the entire front end (downward only) to even it out. Because of this it can be hard to find the leak. I would check this video to see how the suspension works and how to diagnose a leak: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply. Yesterday I parked the car and I physically could see both sides slowly dropping at the same time this is when I heard air being vented somewhere. Am I right in saying if the front valve block is faulty and not leaking at the connections it will leak back to the compressor to be vented? Is this what I could hear? Short burst of air stops then another 5 or 6 times.
@@Chappy001 The thing is I'm under the impression that even if the valve block leaks back to the compressor it will encounter another valve at the compressor before it vents, so it shouldn't really lower unless the car "wants" it to, e.g., 2 hours after parking and every 6 hours after that. If it's seeping out of both front springs, it may be a leaking block that's leaking to the atmosphere. Where do you hear the hissing? Overall since it's a both-front-wheel leak, you're best bet would be to change out the front valve block since it's so cheap and reasonably simple.
@@HazyJay hard to pinpoint the hiss it's a short vent of air under a second then a pause then again for a few times. I watched the front drop from standard to the bumpstops yesterday after parking and it took 3 or mins for both sides to go down equally.
While attempting to remove my valve block from the grommets it was so stuck to the fender well that it broke two of the grommets. Is there a trick or quick fix you know of to re-install valve block so it won’t bounce around while driving?
One grommet is probably fine, or you could salvage a grommet from one of the other valve blocks so both have two, I would recommend the middle block since it's easy to access.
@@HazyJay Well turns out it is on drivers side 🤦 but behind an aux cooling rad, Nd a mounting plate, its on the other side of those. What a nightmare to get to!!
I don't subscribe to many channels (like 3) but I'm subscribed. THX! Q'n - I have a leak F/R 2011 HSE. It's always the F/R and it never re-levels as far as I can tell. If it did, wouldn't the whole front be low in the morning? Or at least some height lost on F/L? Also noteworthy the spring is not easy to get to like the one in your vid to spray test. Should I just replace the the F/block as it seems the middle re-leveling valve does not work ? Also, any advise on checking the top part of the spring on the 2011. I remove the cap and the rubber is still not exposed or, as far as I can see, accessible. Hoping replacing the block valve will solve both.
Thanks for the sub =), regarding your issue, if ONLY the FR wheel is lower after an entire night with the fuse IN, but the vehicle hasn't releveled, then it would make sense the middle solenoid is stuck in the closed position. You're right it's hard to access the springs to spray them with water, particularly the top because it's right up against the spring mount, so I would change the front block since it's cheaper/easier and see what happens.
C1B03- 19 - Intermittent - Directional control valve 1... i had twice this error when is rainy day. From where i should start to check where can be issue? Fluid level is max etc..
This can be caused by a short circuit in the directional control system, likely the solenoid. I'd locate the solenoids for the ACE block (under the car by the passenger seat, see diagram) unplug the wire harness connecting it, and blow it out with air/sensor cleaner a few times and reconnect. It likely got wet during the rain. parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/rvt500010-coil-shut-off-valve.html
Congratulations on your videos! great job! may I ask you if you know why my front suspension goes way up and even though I try to lower it down, goes up again? both right and left. Thanks a lot!
Around 2006-2009 it's likely the same. No calibration needed after replacement, just make sure you get the front valve block because the rear looks the exact same but is a different part number.
Great videos! Extremely helpful. I was able to diagnose the suspension problem on my 08 LR3 and bought the replacement front valve block from your video link. However after installing the suspension aired up just fine but then immediately started dropping in the front, and the compressor kept running to keep refilling. I'm guessing the the block was faulty as I read several reviews on amazon stating that. I'm also a little confused about the new one as it came with new VOSS (I think that's the correct term?) connectors, new brass nuts and brass fittings. I didn't use these but just screwed the original connectors in to the new block, exactly as they were on the old one. Could this have been the problem? Thanks so much for you help!
Using the original connectors should be OK. It definitely seems as though there's a leak, are you able to start the vehicle while looking at the valve block? The tire might be in the way somewhat but then you could tell what is leaking.
@@HazyJay Yes I could try that, I have the wheel well panel off. I'll reinstall the new one and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from. Thank you! I'm tempted to just return this replacement and order another since they're so inexpensive. Maybe I just got a bad one?
@@HazyJay Again, thank you so much for your help! Ok so I ended up getting another replacement valve block, used the original connectors but also used ptfe tape and that seemed to work, no immediate leaks. I have since checked it and the air shocks using soapy water and found no leaks. However the front still sags, but only a small amount. I've taken measurements from the ground to top of the wheel well and It seems to want to rest at a height of 32 1/4 on the passenger side and 32 1/2 driver side. After starting the compressor will kick on and raise the front to 33 but then after driving or sitting for a while, its back to 32 1/4 and 32 1/2 again. I've also checked after sitting overnight and it stays consistent at that slightly lower height. Is this a leak that I haven't found, or is it an issue with the height sensors, or does it need to be recalibrated? I'm just confused on what to do next?
@@damonearlewine9482 Honestly a quarter inch difference is about right, it also depends on how inclined the parking surface is, hence why calibration is usually done on a leveled surface (which most driveways aren't due to water drainage reasons), seems like you fixed the issue! Now if it drops 2 inches or something over the course of 2-3 days, then you may still have an issue. You can get it calibrated at the dealer if you want it perfect.
@@HazyJay OK Thank you! Good to know! I was just thinking that if the problem was fixed that it wouldn't drop at all, and the compressor wouldn't have to run. Honestly before the valve started leaking and it started sagging in the front significantly I wasn't even paying that close of attention to hearing the compressor run. So good to know that this is normal and hearing the compressor kick in for a minute isn't gonna burn it out or a sign of a bigger problem. Thanks again!
Please see my message my right side is not getting to the top. It will try and attempt to rise a little bit and then eventually fall with a hissing noise should I just get a valve block? Or bag
Likely a leak, could be bag but I'd watch my other video "Sagging overnight" and follow the instructions at the end to determine if it's the spring or valve block.
Ensure all of the connections were replaced the same way they were removed, lines going to the wrong port can cause significant issues. Also ensure the wire harness is attached. If all is OK, the new valve block may be defective, in addition, the front and rear valve blocks have different part numbers, ensure you purchased the correct one.
Hey .. I have RRS 2006 After starting the car the compressor is work i can hear the sound just about 2m When the car go standard hight i got massege ( Susbinssion fault normal hight only ) No leak at all Is it compressor or valve block?
Thank you so much for these videos I can't even express how thankful I am for these videos. And thank you for making them so clear and concise
Seriously appreciating all your DIY videos. Just saved 5000 dollars by watching your videos. Unlimited Monetary policies just made the stealership and Indy shops even more sketchy. It’s not about affordability it’s just pure disgust when knowing a simple job they would rip you off 4-500 percent. You made us rover owners feel confident in our cars again.
I totally agree. The National Automobile Dealers Association has released data showing that dealerships profits are 26 % on new car sales, 25% on used car sales, and 49% from the parts and service department 🙄
Can't feel confident in those anyway.. They have constant problems.. 🤦♂️
I havent even got a car (I live in London, drive a local bus and have a racing bicycle) but I find your videos on range rover air suspension videos most instructive for when I win the lottery and buy one of these iconic vehicles.
I own a small car dealership. I'm constantly searching RUclips videos for random repairs across all makes and models...I wish you had a video for all my cars problems! Your videos are pretty much the best I have seen! 5 stars!
You make the BEST Land Rover videos, you set the standards on ' how to DIY' repairs! :)
Excellent video one of the best repair video I've ever seen.
EXCELLENT Video. You did a great job explaining the proper connection for each air tube. I have been searching for couple days and you have been the only one to have such a great video with outstanding clear and concise images. Thank you
Tremendous video production. Loved the explanation at the beginning with 3D image and then low key instructions in the second half of the video.
you are a gem to the world my dude
Your videos are extremely helpful. I own a 2009 rrss that I enjoy working on myself. Learning a lot here. Keep it coming 😊
Yes he should have a million views
Your channel has been extremely helpful in diagnosing and repairing my 2006 Rover Sport Supercharged! Looking forward to your next one in the series.
This is wonderful. Very clear and easy to follow. I love the video. Well done!!!!
Great video, thank you. I live in Wisconsin and my drivers side air bags were not raising the truck, only the passenger side. So along my way home that evening I had a loud BOOM that’s ounces like it came from the rear passenger side air bag. It sounded as if it popped. Now it was 5-10 below zero this night so I’m thinking that that’s what help cause these issues.
perfect thanks a lot great support for my RR Sport repairs
Amazing video. Simple and to the point.
Hi Hazy,
My issue is the front lifts and goes down while I drive for example if I lift off quick the front goes up and red light comes on, and then when I brake the front end goes down,
I’ve changed Compressor as the old one failed now compressor works but I’m getting error code c1a13-64 (pressure does not decreases when venting gallery)
I have also realised front left goes down a tiny bit when car sits for 2-3days.
Your videos are absolutely brilliant.
Hi! Thank for your videos! They are very helpful. I'm hoping you can help with an problem we're having with our 2008 RRSS. The brief version of the saga is - soon after we bought it last year, we started having occasional then regular suspension fault issues. Stopping and restarting would re-engage the system. The error messages included suspension fault, the car will raise when cooled, the car is raising slowly, limited engine performance, and check spare tire pressure. The car sagged on the front passenger side. About 3 months ago the suspension failed and the front end wouldn't raise at all. We weren’t in a position to repair or stop driving it and one day the problem seemingly disappeared for about 2 weeks. After it failed it again functioned after a month for 10 days. A month later the back end is now really low as well. And finally, there is a hose in the very front which is just hanging. We think it's the air suspension hose. Though I know very little about RRs it seems likely that whatever the original problem was there are probably other issues resulting from the unfortunate but necessary use of the car since the suspension started failing. If you have any thoughts or suggestions I would greatly appreciate hearing them. Many thanks! Lucy
If it fails on COLD days, it's likely a low voltage battery and the battery needs replacing. This will cause all sorts of errors including transmission faults, suspension faults, and engine performance faults. Worse on cold days. If it's not the battery, then it's not uncommon for the compressor to fail, this often displays "suspension fault, normal height only" shortly after starting the car that goes away with restarting. Personally, I swapped my air suspension with regular coil springs, costs around $1500 but you never have any suspension faults again.
Fantastic Video --- Thanks so much. Your videos are saving me a bundle!
I can't thank you enough for this great video, I have 2016 l405 are the suspension parts the same and in similar locations.
My 2016 has dropped front end the dealer suspect the front valve , replacing it will cost about $2k, and I think that is just outrageous
That IS outrageous, I would definitely try to change it yourself and see how it goes.
hey thank you for the explanation.....but the rear and the front valve are they the same except the valve near the compressor
I replaced the front valve block in my 06” LR3 but it still dropped to access height overnight. Great video though, subscribed
I'd recommend watching my video "Sagging overnight" to find the cause, that's a common issue unfortunately.
@@HazyJay Yeah I did actually watch that video too. I did the diagnostics overnight and it made sense that it would be the front valve. Even my mechanic had a look at it when he did my timing belt service and said yep that would be it. Might be a hose I'm guessing..., maybe somewhere i can't get to
Great video. I have followed your diagnosis and pulled the fuse and overnight the front left is dropping the most but also the rear left is dropping although not as much as the front. This has confused me as based upon your explanation they are fed by different valve blocks. Am I missing something or could it be that both the front and rear blocks have gone leaky at the same time?
If it's just one side it's either the left air springs have a slow leak or both solenoids, but you are correct in that they don't communicate so it can't be a single solenoid causing the front/rear left droop.
Brilliant video! Do you have the part number for the top connector o ring as that’s where my air leak is coming from?
dude, your vids are incredible. How about differential noise like a train sound please.
the front and rear sensor look alike and some aftermarket suppliers seem to think they're interchangeable. Do they differ in any way?
Hello, excellent video. My range rover sport lowers on the front two wheels overnight and only the back left wheel. Could you please give me your advice. Thankyou so much
Ah yes, it's likely either the front valve block or a leak, but to determine which is which, please watch: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
Thanks for sharing this video
Also the background music it's
Really cool. I love it.
Thanks for your vids really helpful
Thanks for such a clear and excellent video
found it. 2011 HSE L side of wheel in wheel well. (closer to passenger seat)
Hi Hazy, thank you so much. Yes, removing the fuse seems to have stopped the air pump, however when I drove home it appears that it caused the power steering to tighten up. Is that normal or expected? Does that indicate that the 4-wheel drive has stopped? I'm also trying to purchase the module you mentioned for under the dashboard. Trying to locate one, can you tell me the specific name so that I can search? What's the name of your company so that we can bookmark you for future questions? Thanks Preston
It's strange that the power steering has tightened up, maybe double check the fuse and try removing the relay instead. Regarding the reflash software it actually comes with the springs from Atlantic British, you can buy it by itself but it's fairly pricy, maybe shop around: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-suspension-parts/7982K/.
I'm actually not affiliated with any company but you can comment on a video and I will see it 👍
Mate, great videos... I have a question if the front & rear valve blocks can be interchanged..? I know they have different part # but I see the after-market ones selling as both the front & rear, confusing... what's your experience or knowledge from others..? cheers.
I've never tried swapping them but they do look very similar, if you try it let us know.
I love your videos they are really helpful. Could you please tell me if the front and rear valve blocks are interchangeable. I've ordered a new rear valve block and have since read on a forum that part number 000055 is front and 00000095 is rear. I need the front and have now realised the part number being sent is 0000095 which is rear and not 0000055 which is front and the one I need. Your advice would be gratefully received.
Thank you
Thanks for the awesome video, you've helped me so many times. :-)
I have a question - what experience do you have after these years with cheap parts like this valve? Or cheap made in China compressor?
Everyone on the LR forums tells me it's not worth it, it won't last into warranty and I'll have to deal with it again.
The cheap ($100-$150) compressor will definitely fail early, so it's worth getting a real compressor (Hitachi). The other parts are hit or miss, but they're so cheap you can somewhat give them a try and see what happens like with the valve blocks.
nice video, i have a question, vehicle was fine then osr dropped,i pumped it up into high removed battery and left, no drop, then put it in normal and disconnected battery, osr dropped again?
EDIT: I've put new original valve block after finding very cheap offer on local market. It helps 100%. I also found that problably leak was on the thread. There are small metal, movable rings on the end of every thread that wedges the tube firm into the valve. Mine was cracked. Keep in mind you will not get them in repair oring kits. Pfte tape worked perfect also. Cheers.
Hey, great vid. Should I put anything on the tubes nuts and screws when screwing it back to the new block? Like loctite 577? or maybe some thin ptfe sealing tape?
PTFE tape is a reasonable choice, it wont hurt anything, but ideally the o-ring on the voss connection will be doing most of the sealing. Seems like a good idea in case of o-ring failure.
@@HazyJay thanks for prompt answer. I found that there are many Chinese valve blocks that basicaly will cost me the same as oring set from 4x4airseals shop. Would you rather recommend new part or rebuilding oem block?
@@itsgoood I'd say just get a new block, I've seen a few people rebuild the block and still have problems that resolved with buying a new block. It will take the guess work out of the equation.
For a right hand drive car, would these components be in the same location??
Hi Hazy, When I replace the F26 fuse, which relay should I try to remove. It's driving fine, it's just the power steering.
Thanks, Preston and Sabrina
In my vehicle (2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4L V8) it's fuse F26 under the hood, but if that's interfering with steering you can try F3, or R7 which is the relay.
Can u make a video for the headlight level sensor 08 range rover supercharged
Good job
Hi I have issue with my LR4 my front suspensions goes down after parked over night and after 5 days rear goes down too
Fault code is related to valve block
But I can’t figure out which valve Block is giving my issue
Is it front middle or rear ones ? Any idea where to start looking from thanks
What would think would be the cause of both front shocks not lifting? I hear the compressor running. The back is fine, but the front isn’t lifting at all, making for a terrible ride. I haven’t sprayed it down yet, but wasn’t sure if this is something you have ever dealt with. I hope to hear back from you!
The front solenoid could have become clogged with desssicant powder, usually if an issue is isolated to the front it's the fault of the front valve block. Given it's relatively inexpensive I think replacing it is a good first step to see if that resolved your issue 👌
I’m not sure if my 07 LR3 has an issue with a air shock or the valve block. I put it in off-road height but the front suspension will not reach full height. The rear does. I pulled the fuse and measured over night. Both the front left and front right seem to be dropping about the same an 1/2 every 120 minutes or so but after about 12 hours it was about 3 inches. The rear will go up or down as normal but the front will either raise slowly or not at all. Always an error every time I start the vehicle either right away or after 30 seconds. Air shock issue, height sensor or valve block issue?
Thanks for posting.. I have a 2008 Range Rover HSE the right side is lower and when car on you can hear hissing air. Is that automatically the Block to be replaced? Thanks
This video will help you figure out if it's the valve block or a leak: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html&ab_channel=Hazy
HI Changed my air struts and shocks with a conversion kit. How do I get the air to stop, I don't want to burn out the compressor which I no longer need?
You have two options. Some conversion kits come with a reflash module that you need to hardwire under the driver dash that will keep all 4x4 modes and remove any warnings, this is the best option. Alternatively, just disconnect the F26 fuse under the hood and see if that solves your issue, see here: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
Hello I have an issue. 2011 SC RRS. I’m getting a vehicle leaning detected after starting a drive. The issue disappears when shutting off the car I dont know where to start
Hi, I love the videos thanks. I have an Issue with my RRS 2010 TDV6, only when driving locally with many steering turns, suspension warning comes up with turn vehicle off. If i turn it off and on again, the car will rock side to side then it will be fine. Happens randomly, but never if I'm driving on a motorway, only local driving. Error code on diagnostic shows C1119-62 Hydraulic pressure. Also if i leave it parked for about 2 weeks, then i start it up i can hear it raising the suspension very slightly on the front. Any help and advice would be really appreciated. Thanks
Hi. I have a pressure increasing too rapidly code on rrs 06.
Can you please advice which part is most likely at fault?
Many thanks.
any help got a c1130-66 (af) and this morning air spring supply to-many transitions, she was sitting fine though wiped it with a gap iid, left for twelve hours all still sitting fine got in drove it no problems still sitting correctly changed the modes up and down again all working fine sprayed the bags top and bottom for leaks nothing ? so think this mite be a fluke or is it gonna come back with a valve problem or bag? only thing i have noticed over the last twelve months is the bags when going up and down have become very noisy like crinkling sound when raising and lowering while i got this code i also got a u3000-13 (28) control module failure warning which i also wiped and never came back on any help would be great
brilliant videos!! would love to know where you also jacked the front end up before disconnecting airlines to the valve block.....could you reply here by any chance?
Jack on the frame by the rear part of the lower control arm, the goal is to not compress the spring while you're undoing the hoses.
@@HazyJay Ol will take a look today, thanks so much 👍
@@HazyJay its not on drivers side uk
i have a 2010 with the same issue do you know if i can use the same part ? thanks
Will a faulty front valve block stop the RR dropping to dynamic setting ? The switch is flashing when I try to drop to dynamic
Thanks
Mine has a small radiator behind that cover. I can’t seem to access this valve block without removing that first. Any thoughts? 2006 4.2SC. I’ve replaced both front struts and it still will sit front end down after a few hours.
Oh yeah the super charged version is a bit more tedious, here's a basic rundown.
1. Remove the grill
2. Remove the two head lights
3. Remove the top and bottom bumper screws
4. Remove the lower screws under the wheel wells that attach to the bumper. You do not have to remove the entire plastic wells.
5. Remove the fog light power connectors
Please see: landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-sport-l320-2005-2013-58/front-air-suspension-valve-block-access-supercharged-97298/
@@HazyJay Perfect! Thanks for the link. A guy on there just removed inner wheel splash shield and then removed aux cooler and gained access without removing bumper. I'll definitely do that!
Quick question. Working on cleaning a valve block… one solenoid has a little corrosion on exterior part of shaft and exposed metal surface where orange oring would seat. Nothing that inhibits movement internally. Would that cause any connection or electrical issue on operating? Others just had a lot of white dust and seemed fine. My front is still sagging overnight after cleaning on some side.
Great video. I think I have a similar issue. When I park my car the front suspension instantly starts slowly dropping evenly on both sides till it hits the bumpstops. I can hear short bursts of air being vented somewhere a short hiss and then a few seconds later it does it again. Is this the air coming back from the block being vented?
It's possible it's the block, however, even if one of the front springs is leaking the vehicle will make intermittent adjustments to the entire front end (downward only) to even it out. Because of this it can be hard to find the leak. I would check this video to see how the suspension works and how to diagnose a leak: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply. Yesterday I parked the car and I physically could see both sides slowly dropping at the same time this is when I heard air being vented somewhere. Am I right in saying if the front valve block is faulty and not leaking at the connections it will leak back to the compressor to be vented? Is this what I could hear? Short burst of air stops then another 5 or 6 times.
@@Chappy001 The thing is I'm under the impression that even if the valve block leaks back to the compressor it will encounter another valve at the compressor before it vents, so it shouldn't really lower unless the car "wants" it to, e.g., 2 hours after parking and every 6 hours after that. If it's seeping out of both front springs, it may be a leaking block that's leaking to the atmosphere. Where do you hear the hissing? Overall since it's a both-front-wheel leak, you're best bet would be to change out the front valve block since it's so cheap and reasonably simple.
@@HazyJay hard to pinpoint the hiss it's a short vent of air under a second then a pause then again for a few times. I watched the front drop from standard to the bumpstops yesterday after parking and it took 3 or mins for both sides to go down equally.
Excellent!
While attempting to remove my valve block from the grommets it was so stuck to the fender well that it broke two of the grommets. Is there a trick or quick fix you know of to re-install valve block so it won’t bounce around while driving?
One grommet is probably fine, or you could salvage a grommet from one of the other valve blocks so both have two, I would recommend the middle block since it's easy to access.
To confirm, on a UK right hand drive car, this will be on drivers side front eheel yes?
Yes, the front right wheel (driver side)
Its not the drivers side on UK car as you suggested in my question, its passenger side. 🤦
@@germancarfan360 Why is that mirrored 🤦, is the compressor also on the right (driver) in the UK?
@@HazyJay Well turns out it is on drivers side 🤦 but behind an aux cooling rad, Nd a mounting plate, its on the other side of those. What a nightmare to get to!!
@@germancarfan360 Its harder to get to on the supercharged version, is yours supercharged?
Curious - how long does this repair actually take?
Probably an hour, taking the tire on/off probably takes the most time.
My front left driver side leaks on and off, more so in the cold. Any idea what it is?
I don't subscribe to many channels (like 3) but I'm subscribed. THX! Q'n - I have a leak F/R 2011 HSE. It's always the F/R and it never re-levels as far as I can tell. If it did, wouldn't the whole front be low in the morning? Or at least some height lost on F/L? Also noteworthy the spring is not easy to get to like the one in your vid to spray test. Should I just replace the the F/block as it seems the middle re-leveling valve does not work ? Also, any advise on checking the top part of the spring on the 2011. I remove the cap and the rubber is still not exposed or, as far as I can see, accessible. Hoping replacing the block valve will solve both.
Thanks for the sub =), regarding your issue, if ONLY the FR wheel is lower after an entire night with the fuse IN, but the vehicle hasn't releveled, then it would make sense the middle solenoid is stuck in the closed position. You're right it's hard to access the springs to spray them with water, particularly the top because it's right up against the spring mount, so I would change the front block since it's cheaper/easier and see what happens.
C1B03- 19 - Intermittent - Directional control valve 1... i had twice this error when is rainy day. From where i should start to check where can be issue? Fluid level is max etc..
This can be caused by a short circuit in the directional control system, likely the solenoid. I'd locate the solenoids for the ACE block (under the car by the passenger seat, see diagram) unplug the wire harness connecting it, and blow it out with air/sensor cleaner a few times and reconnect. It likely got wet during the rain. parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/rvt500010-coil-shut-off-valve.html
@@HazyJay Tnx!
How to check which solenoid is “bad”? There is in total 3 of them.
@@wiirus77 This is the directional control (ACE) solenoid, not the air suspension solenoid. See the link 👌
is the Front valve block location the same on a 2011 or did they move it? I do not see it.
Thanks!
Congratulations on your videos! great job! may I ask you if you know why my front suspension goes way up and even though I try to lower it down, goes up again? both right and left. Thanks a lot!
what line is for the front struts
Same process for the lr4? Any calibration needed after replacing components?
Around 2006-2009 it's likely the same. No calibration needed after replacement, just make sure you get the front valve block because the rear looks the exact same but is a different part number.
Front and back valve are same ?
Great videos! Extremely helpful. I was able to diagnose the suspension problem on my 08 LR3 and bought the replacement front valve block from your video link. However after installing the suspension aired up just fine but then immediately started dropping in the front, and the compressor kept running to keep refilling. I'm guessing the the block was faulty as I read several reviews on amazon stating that. I'm also a little confused about the new one as it came with new VOSS (I think that's the correct term?) connectors, new brass nuts and brass fittings. I didn't use these but just screwed the original connectors in to the new block, exactly as they were on the old one. Could this have been the problem? Thanks so much for you help!
Using the original connectors should be OK. It definitely seems as though there's a leak, are you able to start the vehicle while looking at the valve block? The tire might be in the way somewhat but then you could tell what is leaking.
@@HazyJay Yes I could try that, I have the wheel well panel off. I'll reinstall the new one and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from. Thank you! I'm tempted to just return this replacement and order another since they're so inexpensive. Maybe I just got a bad one?
@@HazyJay Again, thank you so much for your help! Ok so I ended up getting another replacement valve block, used the original connectors but also used ptfe tape and that seemed to work, no immediate leaks. I have since checked it and the air shocks using soapy water and found no leaks. However the front still sags, but only a small amount. I've taken measurements from the ground to top of the wheel well and It seems to want to rest at a height of 32 1/4 on the passenger side and 32 1/2 driver side. After starting the compressor will kick on and raise the front to 33 but then after driving or sitting for a while, its back to 32 1/4 and 32 1/2 again. I've also checked after sitting overnight and it stays consistent at that slightly lower height. Is this a leak that I haven't found, or is it an issue with the height sensors, or does it need to be recalibrated? I'm just confused on what to do next?
@@damonearlewine9482 Honestly a quarter inch difference is about right, it also depends on how inclined the parking surface is, hence why calibration is usually done on a leveled surface (which most driveways aren't due to water drainage reasons), seems like you fixed the issue! Now if it drops 2 inches or something over the course of 2-3 days, then you may still have an issue. You can get it calibrated at the dealer if you want it perfect.
@@HazyJay OK Thank you! Good to know! I was just thinking that if the problem was fixed that it wouldn't drop at all, and the compressor wouldn't have to run. Honestly before the valve started leaking and it started sagging in the front significantly I wasn't even paying that close of attention to hearing the compressor run. So good to know that this is normal and hearing the compressor kick in for a minute isn't gonna burn it out or a sign of a bigger problem. Thanks again!
Please see my message my right side is not getting to the top. It will try and attempt to rise a little bit and then eventually fall with a hissing noise should I just get a valve block? Or bag
Likely a leak, could be bag but I'd watch my other video "Sagging overnight" and follow the instructions at the end to determine if it's the spring or valve block.
Is the front air block in the same location on an LR4 ?
Yes it should be in the same location 👍
Aloha, does this apply to the 2012 RR Full Size?
I have the C1a31-01 error any idea how to fix that?
Hi, I changed the front valve block but the front suspension won’t go up anymore. What could be te reason that the front suspension won’t go up ?
Ensure all of the connections were replaced the same way they were removed, lines going to the wrong port can cause significant issues. Also ensure the wire harness is attached. If all is OK, the new valve block may be defective, in addition, the front and rear valve blocks have different part numbers, ensure you purchased the correct one.
@hazy Im going to check the port are connecting correctly. How can I tell which cables go to the correct port ? I appreciate your help.
@@johnnypena5858 Compare to the arrangement at 3:37, the lines should direct toward their respective spring, and the compressor line is orange.
@@HazyJay thank you for your help.
@@johnnypena5858 no problem, good luck!
Is this has somthing to do with fault code c1b03 directional control valve 1
Help please
Hi, what do you recommend between genuine and aftermarket parts?
For the valve? I would try an aftermarket one and see if it fixes your issue since it's 1/3 the price.
@@HazyJay thx for you reply. I meant for any part, even for the service.
Comon failed point: list's the full system
Hey ..
I have RRS 2006
After starting the car the compressor is work i can hear the sound just about 2m
When the car go standard hight i got massege ( Susbinssion fault normal hight only )
No leak at all
Is it compressor or valve block?
Please i need help
Have you fix it?
I FXXXING LOVE YOU ILLUSTRATION THANK YOU CAN YOU DO ONE FOR A ROVER COOLANT -
Hey thanks! I have a vid on the coolant reservoir, at the end I talk about clearing the system of air as well.
@@HazyJay yes yes and yes I’m going threw all your videos thank you so much for taking the time to reply have a great day! 🥰♥️
Hi my range rover right side lighting down why ?
Right side is leaning down? front or back right?
OK
Thanks!