Thank you - solved fault code on my Disco 3 - first I serviced the compressor then changed this middle valve, fault was C1A18-64. The yellow light had been on for weeks and as I didn't have any issues with the suspension for a long time suddenly it started going into limp mode. Firstly the fault code said 'suspension rising slowly" Fault C1A20 so I serviced the compressor - car still went into limp mode and fault code changed to C1A18 - middle valve block seems to have sorted it for now. It's thanks to guys like Hazy who take the time to explain faults and resolutions that saves us money. Sometimes a £1500 dealer bill can be sorted for £50! Cheers..
Great vid. Very instructive. I said I'd get back to you about my L320 suspension issues about 2 years ago. I've replace the rear valve block, rear shocks and had other problems to deal with like Bearings, brakes and such, but will be doing this middle valve block very soon. So, my way overdue update is that I am still working at it. This truck has been much work over the past 4yrs but we do enjoy it. Thanks for all of your help with the great vids and for you help when I've asked questions previously. You are obviously a scholar and truly a gentleman. Thanks again! Be safe and God bless!😎👍
If the suspension becomes too big of a headache it's sometimes easier/more reliable to swap to coils. I did that to my L320 RRS and it has 160K miles so far, basically rids you of all suspension issues.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply! Yes, I have been considering that. Do you remember what coil over package you bought? I don't want to waste any more time and money buying junk if at all possible... you never know what your getting until it's too late sometimes. 🤷♂️ I did the middle valve block today and apparently I did something wrong. Now I get the "normal height only" immediately on ignition. I had a tough time w the hose connections and think at least 1 may be too far out for a good seal. It's odd though as the compressor doesn't even think about kicking on. I get the dash warning as soon as I press ignition to on position.(do I need to reset any codes after the valve replacement?) I'm gonna try again tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help over the years. You are appreciated!
@@kevinfelisberto4204 Yes I bought the lifted conversion kit from Atlantic British, this one specifically: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/, that was in May 2020 and I haven't had any issues since then. Regarding the code clearing I don't think you'll need to, immediate code makes me think the wiring might be loose or a fuse/relay is out.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply again! The info and the link too! Ironically, I never saw your reply until now as I was coming back here to tell you that did do the conversion. Turns out I actually did exactly that! I ended up buying and installing that exact same kit from Atlantic Brittish that you suggested and installed yourself... but before I saw your comment. So that's pretty cool! It's a great set up and I am very happy with the ride so far. Interesting you mentioned the possibility of a bad relay because of the immediate fault. You also mentioned that I may not need to clear any codes after my install. I saw a few install vids and in 2 of them the codes did clear. 1 imediately, and the other after a few resarts. Unfortunatkey I still have the in dash warnings and also no off road special programs option either. The annoying tone that sounded when the 35mph warning comes up has gone away and it only tells me that upon startup, but the red triangle stays on all the time and I cannot access the special off road options still. Do you think that may still be happening due to the suspension relay being bad? (all fuses seem fine). After I did the wiring, everything else about the truck seems fine... everything works! I even had it aligned, wheels balanced and gave it an oil change at a local Sullivan Tires. I asked them to clear the suspension codes for me while they were clearing the oil change. They said they did but obviously either they messed up or it just wouldn't work. I ended up ordering a $100 OBD2 code reader/clearer from ANCEL. It will supposedly clear the suspension codes. Should be delivered Saturday. If you think the relay might possibly be my problem... maybe I'll order a new one. I replaced it a few years ago when all the trouble started so I figured it was still good... but maybe it's no good now?🤷♂️ Please let me know your thoughts. As always, I really do appreciate all of your help over the years. You have been a God sent for me in my battle! Your vids are excellent tutorials and the character you've shown all of us who've reached out to you is top notch! Thank you!!😎👍 Sorry for the lengthy message.
Wow, these are the clearest and most straight forward instructions I’ve come across yet. However as per my mechanic diagnosis of leaking front air springs and a faulty compressor, I decided to do the job myself. The $4000 price tag was the deciding factor. The actual parts replacement went without a hitch, however upon staring the car, the compressor ran for quite sometime with the car raising an inch. I turned off the car to prevent damage to the née compressor. Once cooled down I tried again, but the compressor no longer runs. I bypassed the relay and the compressor is still operational. It appears the reservoir is the only thing that filled, as removing this connection from the middle air block caused a lot of air to escape. I removed the air block and solenoid and cleaned both to no avail. Would really appreciate some tips as where to go next. Cheers Craig
When the entire system is depressurized the compressor will need to fill the empty springs and the reservoir, this does take a little while. Sometimes the compressor will fault due to getting too hot and the car will need to be restarted, this can take 3-4 car starts for the compressor to fill the reservoir and all of the springs. If the compressor is no longer running at all (when when the car starts), there is likely a blown fuse or relay, typically it will run for a bit when the car is started. Consider watching my video entitled "sagging overnight", it explains how the air system works and how to dx a leak, if there is leak from the spring or a valve block you will be able to find it using the method outlined.
@HazyJay @HazyJay I know this comment is after the fact, but.... I have a 2011 RRS HSE. I get random suspension faults, that clear when I restart the vehicle. Car can raise to and lower from off road no problems. However, I will not lower to valet height. The front lowers, but the back will attempt, then kick back up and put the entire car into off road mode. This again will clear when retarting the vehicle. Car does not sag, even when left in off road over night. Could this be the rear valve block or the ride height sensors?
Always include a fresh dryer when serviceing, its the number 1 reason compressors over heat. The wool filter gets clogged with the Dissicant that has ben deteriated .
These videos are very helpful and thank you. Any suggestions on why my RR won’t raise at all when we have replaced compressor , rear valve block and reservoir valve block and checked the relays? The pump runs for about 2 mins but the wheels won’t raise but then a loud rush of air releases. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Awesome video. Wondering if all 4 corners go down at the same time (after disconnecting fuse/battery), could reservoir valve block could be the culprit?
Hi have a 2008 tdv8 this video is exactly what I’m experiencing with the amber warning light on dash and failure to raise the entire front of the car, would you say this middle valve block is my problem as opposed to the compressor? A replacement is £300 so I don’t want to risk spending that sort of money without being able to certain I’m doing the right thing, diagnostic tool shows a code pointing to a valve block issue, I can’t raise car enough to check any leaks at the suspension struts? Thanks
So I only had air pressure from one voss connector and a massive amount. No pressure release from others. Does this mean any thing. And the error code I was getting was the same as you mentioned in this video. Thanks. Great detail with no filler. Dope video👏🏾
Hi.. Question please..Compressor Runs for 40 seconds or so then stops which turns on Suspension Fault Indicator. Car runs good but something wrong for that indicator to be on. No codes come up on Scanner saying only Communication Network failure or something so we started guessing. Rear Valve Block changed ..then Front Valve Block changed..still same issue. Just ordered new Hitachi Compressor and Relay..on the way. I asked and was told Middle Valve Block is part of Compressor..is this correct or should I order a Middle Valve Block too. Thanks
I have a 2013 RRS. Suspension is having fault issues and will not raise properly all of the sudden and I get suspension fault while driving. If I stop the vehicle and turn if off and then back on again the fault goes away, however it will come back. The vehicle will show fine in Access Hight, however, when I start to drive it eventually will automatically begin to try to raise to Normal Hight without me ever making a selection to put it to normal height. I can hear the compressor pumping but nothing happens. While I am driving and it is attempting to raise on its own to Normal Hight, (and I will even stop to try to let it do so, but it will not) and eventually I get a dash message that says that the vehicle will raise when the system cools; however, when the system cools and it again says that it is rising it is not. the rear is holding air and if I attempt to get out and push access level, the vehicle will drop in the rear, but nothing is happening that I can see up front, except, sometime I thing I see the front raise a bit when I try to get it to go to solid light on Access level. For the most part the "up arrow" is lit trying to go from Access level to Normal level but it will not go. Sometimes I also get a message that the suspension is in "Extended Mode" whatever that is, and to reset height once I have cleared an obstacle; however, I never did anything or made any type of button selection for "Extended Mode". There does not appear to be any leaking about the Air Suspension bags that I can hear; however, if is push on the rubber bags below the main portion of the strut, I can hear air, but there seem to be two factory made holes near the bottom of each rubber cover. I have taken off that dampening cover where the compressor is located and I also do not hear any air leaking from the compressor, which I did not was an AMK compressor. The ride is clearly a bit bouncy and when I get the waring red suspension fault and not to go over 30 MPH the vehicle is extremely bouncy. When that happens I pull off of the road stop the vehicle turn it off, wait a minute and then restart and the vehicle suspension fault goes away but of course the cycle just starts all over. What thoughts do you have? The compressor will run but it does get hot. When I had the dampening cover off, I noted is was very hot to the touch and while it is pumping nothing seems to be happening and I do not hear air escaping from anywhere. Is this a mid-valve issue? What should I do to trouble shoot and repair? Any help and direction you can provide me would be greatly appreciated. I do not know if I can leave my email but it is drtoney67@gmail.com if it will show up. Can I call you? Desperate! Thank you! Dennis
The vehicle will automatically rise from access height to normal height when it reaches a certain speed (8 mph?), but given your compressor is overheating it's likely worn out and needs replacing. The original compressor only lasts around 50-80k miles if you're lucky.
@@dennistoney4610 What I did a few years ago is swap to coil springs, it removes any complications with the air suspension and makes the vehicle much more reliable.
@HazyJay Thank you for getting back to me so fast. Sorry for my delay in responding, but I was outside trying to use the JLR SSD software to get more info. I would like to keep the air suspension feature is possible. I do not know if it is the original compressor or not as I bought the vehicle from a private party and it had well over a 150K now. I have a JLR VCI and SSD software. I do not know exactly how to use it as one should but I have been able to run some to the tests and gotten some DTCs. Are you familiar with the JLR SSD software? I have some screenshots I could send you but I do not see how or know how to attach them here. Do you know how or if it is even possible? Can I email them to you for you to take a look?
I am getting the following codes, C18A18-64, which is reservoir filling too rapidly, and C1A03-92 & C1A04-92 for Front Left and Right Height Sensors at 100% U0421-68-Invalid Data from Ride Level Control Module and C1130-7A for Air Spring Supply at only 7%. Does this information help you help me? Thank you!
I have a 2011 sc and my front right would go low for about a year then the front left. So I had it taken to DuSouth in Dallas. They replaced both front struts and the air compressor for about 3k. That's without taking care of a click sound I would here driving around parking lot. So the right started going low 2 months later so I took it in for warranty. They replaced the from right because it started leaking again.. Who knows why? But the also replaced the sway bar assembly which alone costed like 2200. 2500 after shipping. I had them replace the differential fluid since it was already there. 130k miles. Ended up spending another 3700. I've had the gas tank small evap leak fixed that was like 700 at land Rover and that was the second time I had that done. First time was in college station and didn't want to go back for warranty since I live in dfw. While in college station I also had a head gasket seal, maps sensor, and a manifold hose replaced, and tuneup with new plugs that was like 2200. Last week I dropped off a wing to get painted 200 for the wing and 315 for the paint and I'm putting it on myself. The top part of my wing flew off from bieng old and separating.. I'm about 1 more repair away from losing my sh*t. Hahaha Just remembered I replaced my coolant reservior a month ago because it kept saying it was low but wasn't using one of your videos. That one wasn't bad 40 bucks and half an hour. Anyone have any idea on how to put in new tpms sensors without taking it to land Rover?? Tired of seeing the tpms light come on
Wow that's a lot of repairs. That's one reason I switched to coil springs, the EAS has too many problems to constantly be fiddling with them. Regarding the TPMS sensors, you can try removing USB accessories from the cabin as these can sometimes interfere with the signal. Things like USB adapters, power inverters, dash cams, etc.
Hello, can you tell me if a clogged reservoir valve block can cause the ride to be stiff and at other times smooth or even cause a rapid increase in pressure inside the reservoir?
hmm i think i need to clean or change my one too !! i got a new compressor now new rear valve block .... but i still get the error code c1a13-64 pressure does not decrease when venting gallery. So wonder if its again to compressor i just run 1 day ;(
I have a 2008 RR supercharged car has 80k miles and is a good car. I left it at maximum height and disconnected the battery and measured every corner height, 24hrs later the front seemed to be completely on the bump stops and the rear did not move at all. Any tips with diagnosis appreciated! I sprayed soapy water on the front valve block and did no see any issue there.. I sprayed the front air bags as best as I could without taking tires off and did not see any issues. I did not get to spray the air inlet to the air shocks as I did it all without removing the fender liner…
Usually when the valve block leaks, it doesn't leak "around" the block, rather the seals will leak back to the compressor to vent. Because of this, spraying soapy water on the valve block might not show bubbles even though it is "leaking" back to the compressor and allowing the front to sag. I would start with replacing the front valve block since it's relatively cheap, if you still have issues let me know.
Hazy you got excellent videos n straight to the point! So I recently had my air dryer was all rusted because I was stuck in muddy water! So when I came home I had all kinds of faults! Took the compressor out checked the dryer it was all jammed all the filters in it! So I ended up replacing the compressor (Arnott brand) paid a lot of money for it! But didn’t solve the problem! Rear end stuck in extended mode and front drop all the way! Here is the codes I’m getting on my gap tool ! C1A13-64 and c1A36-01 if you could please help me with this I would greatly appreciated it! Thanks a lot !
Well the C1A13-64 error is usually a problem with venting OUT air, the solenoids can get stuck closed if clogged with water as well as the compressor vent itself. You can consider changing the rear solenoid to see if that unsticks the rear end.
Ive gone thru so many ebay compressors. In one day they with a leak at the valve body they take a bullet. I have a question, how many PSI should be at the blue tab on the dry when full. My obd2 says theres 250lbs in system. Is there supposed to be that many at the hose/blue tab? Those always go first. Next i found a leak at the middle rear hose on that valve block. Does the valve block shut off the psi to the tank? Because at this leak my lr3 drops down after a day. Can you do a videos showing the functionality of this valve body? Like what does the switch do? What stops the psi from coming back out the tank, etc. Maybe we're the air tank check valve is at. Maybe the system is not discharging after pumping up causing too much psi at the valve block.
I'm not sure of the specific PSI but my my video "suspension sagging overnight" talks about the solenoid function. Basically when they're not energized the 3 chambers are all closed and no air moves unless energized.
Please help. On at start up there is a loud noise from the compressor then it stops, 5 minutes down the road I get the yellow light normal ride height only. I did lower the car and it took a good 3 minutes to pump the system up again. Sometimes the light comes on immediately but the loud noise from the compressor occurs on start up everytime. Any ideas??
I have a 2010 RRS. The suspension seems to work fine. When putting the vehicle into off-road height, it stays up overnight without issue. The problem I am having is going into access mode. I have an elderly mother and putting the vehicle into access mode really helps to get her into the car. When I select access mode, it shows a suspension fault. If I switch of the vehicle, sometimes several times, it will go into access mode. On occasion as it gets to its lowest, it then goes into a extended mode. Is it an issue with one or all of the valve blocks not evacuating the air? Many thanks.
If it was an issue with the valve blocks you would expect a similar error when going from extended to normal height as well, so it's possible the vehicle thinks there is an obstacle. Sometimes this can be due to a poor alignment causing too much strain when going into access height. You may need a dealer to check the codes to determine the source.
The suspension fault like is more commonly due to a faulty compressor rather than middle valve block. If you haven't changed the compressor in 50K miles or more, I'd start there.
Hi question, first your videos are awesome as to your video how to replace the air pump which we, me and me son done after watching your video, now after a week my suspension as gone into Extended mode when I was reversing on my drive and I can't get it done back to normal ride high any advice to this please, need help. Thank's Mike
Usually this would be from an erroneous reading of height from the height sensor. Consider studying the 4x4 info screen for any inappropriate readings of the wheel heights.
Yeah the theory is sulfuric acid/lead based batteries can generate hydrogen gas which could flare up when connecting, so usually when you jump a car you connect the negative to a body source last and not the terminal. My battery is a AGM battery so creates little to no gas.
I have a 06 range rover l322 new compressor,air bags & height sensors 2 weeks ago truck lower all 4 tires and both rear and front valve block making a clicking sound when trying to rise but won't let up all the way up you think my valve block have fail?
It's not uncommon to have the desiccant powder cause the valve blocks to leak or become stuck closed/open, but it would be unlikely for front and rear to fail at the same time. Watch the video "sagging over night" to try to narrow down the exact part that's failing.
There are a bunch of lines so it may have happened, I would just carefully refer to the video and see where the lines are supposed to go (left spring, right spring, reservoir, etc), and trace them back.
Hi, I always hear at the rear left side of the car (RRS 2005 ) a strange noise just before to see ''default suspension.... ''What do you think about it ? Valve block or compressor ?! Thanks
That's likely the compressor given the location of the sound (should sound like a electric pump running), unfortunately a fault after starting the car and the compressor running for a bit is likely the compressor failing to achieve adequate pressure fast enough, this means you likely need a new compressor.
Excellent video, RRS 2005, recently changed all 4 suspension. Car now drives nice and smooth, only issue is, if parking for a few days without driving, it lowers down to full access height. What do you think I’ve missed.
Can the Centre valve block lower my front end only when the fuse F26 is pulled? After removing the F26 fuse I had both my front end deflate equally, after buying a brand mee front air valve I still had the same issue. So I’m wondering if the Centre valve block can be responsive me for lowering the front only?
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply Hazy! So why do you think my front end is still dropping equally after changing the front valve block and removing the F26 Fuse? Can I get so unlucky to get both struts leaking at the same rate?
@@fouadmikail8945 possible that both struts are leaking, that's really only reason why it would, you could try disconnecting battery altogether. I would try using a spray bottle with soap and see if you can see any bubbles
I have suspension fault codes and fluid leaking from my dynamic steering fluid reservoir after driving even though it’s closed. Could this reservoir valve block be causing this?
Question for you. My 2007 Range Rover hse sport has the suspension fault normal height only •the screen on the 4x4 info shows the sensors aren’t going up or down but they are a little uneven maybe like half an inch on the screen • when starting the car the compressor works for 15 seconds or so then stops •every now and then the air suspension will work with no issues • also when driving any little bump will make the car shake like crazy it’s like being hit by a wave What do you think I should do
The real question is are the wheels at different heights in real life vs. just on the screen. If the screen shows different heights than what is in reality then the height sensors need calibration. If the heights match up but are bad (one side if lower), then you may have a problem with the valve block or spring. The compressor should run when the car starts to refill the reservoir. SUPER bumpy ride could be due to the springs being totally decompressed and on the rubber bump stops, is it bumpy when the springs are very low? If so it's because they are totally deflated. If you haven't replaced the compressor in 40K+ miles it's likely that, but watch this video to find the exact thing to look for: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
2009 RR sport,initial problem was sagging overnight which was solved by replacing the front valve block leaking internally after spending money on the wrong culprit which was both the front air stut,the car was ok for 5 months,then it started dropping below normal height both front &rear ,now it wont raise ,not even a single inch,my compressor is still fuctional as i swapped with my friends RR and raises the car with no issues,checked for leaks on both the resevoir and front valve block and there is none,what i have noticed is,on the front valve block,the air supply is there(wabbles the supply hose violently when disconnected),but the solenoids remain closed to both front air bags,i have checked this by disconnecting both hoses that feed the front air stuts from the front valve block,not even a single hiss of air(even with the front valve block dismatled & powered only,i expect it to pull the spool for the air strut valves),does the system need to pressrize the air reservoir fully first before sending the output signal to the valve blocks(incase the resevoir tank is leaking)how do i test the individual solenoids for the fron valve block numbered from 1 to 6 to ensure i am receiving the ourput signal from the EAS ECU,i am literally stuck ,the car is a sitting duck,can we engage.....
The vehicle will NOT pressurize the reservoir first, it will run both compressor and send any air from reservoir in order to speed up height changes at startup (sounds like yours is >2cm low, which would engage both), so I don't think it's a leaking reservoir. You can watch my video "sagging over night" to find a potential leak, but the big question is why it won't rise, because even with a small leak over night it should still rise. The middle solenoid just fills the reservoir, so in theory it isn't needed, but if it's stuck open it may trigger a "pressure rising too slowly" fault and shut off the air suspension system. As far as testing the solenoids, you would need a LR-specific reader, I'm not sure how to do that easily.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the prompt response,that is where i am stuck,it behaves as if the compressor is shot,but its working flawlessly in another car,or could i be having wiring harness problems,power related,what i have deduced is the front solenoid valves are stuck closed & the front valve block is barely new,5 months,i even tried the old one same thing,fuses behind the glove box are all good,the middle solenoid i agree with you it is fine because air supply arrives @ the front valve block,il do further testing and bring come back with more concrete feedback
Hi, you mention that the fault code C1A20 gallery filling too slow most likely is the compressor, but I'm getting the fault codes C1A13 (pressure does not decrease when venting gallery) and C1A18 (Pressure increases too rapid when filling the gallery) wouldent that suggest a faulty middle valve-block?? Thanks for a beautiful video!
My supsension light is on.. And I've done change the two front air springs the front valve block the middle valve block all four height sensor brakes light switch and the light is still on and I have a sag just on the front passenger side,, it doesn't sit nomarl like the other 3 sides..
@@HazyJay no it stays the same. But it will leak down.. But when in normal ride mode it doesn't sit like the driver side, it sits about 2 or 3 inches lower than the driver side.. Im thinking the fitting might be leaking cause I didn't change the fitting along with the new air spring.. It was doin the same thing with the old air spring sagging, thats why I changed it..
@@MrCt302 If it leaks lower with the battery unplugged overnight then it's likely the fitting. If the battery is unplugged and it stays where it is overnight then it needs calibration. Good luck!
2007 RRS HSE. Suspension fault light came on. I replaced the compressor and hear it run just fine on start up, but after about 10 or 15 seconds the fault light comes on and the compressor quits. Should the next step be to replace this valve block? The car seems lower in the front that the rear. Or should I be looking at something else? Also, Ive read that the suspension needs to be reset after compressor replacement, so is that the problem? Thanks for your videos.
Did you replace with an OEM compressor (like $700) or the aftermarket one ($150), unfortunately the aftermarket one doesn't always work as well. I don't think it's the valve blocks since this wouldn't cause your symptoms. You're supposed to have the suspension recalibrated after any suspension item is swapped (i never did this but you're "supposed" to), but it's primarily to ensure the suspension is level. If you swapped to the AMK compressor the ECU will need to be flashed or the symptoms you describe will happen.
@@HazyJay I bought an after market compressor. I'll be getting a new vehicle in a couple months so I didn't want to drop nearly $1K on it. Could it be a leak? I don't live near a dealer, so can't just take it down to diagnose the issue.
@@tribefan668 Usually the compressor will fault after starting for 2 reasons: the compressor gets too hot (bad compressor), or there is a significant leak (one of the hoses) that's preventing the compressor from creating a reasonable pressure within a reasonable time. Is your suspension at a normal height or is the car totally depressed.
@@HazyJay do you have a link for the OEM compressor? Where would you suggest getting it? I see them for about $600 on eBay, but over $1,000 from rover dealerships.
@@joemorris22 There isn't one valve that controls the driver side height, the middle valve sends air to the front and rear equally, then it's those valve blocks that send to the left or right side. It's possible you have a leak simultaneously on the left front and rear springs. I would park the car, disconnect the battery, and see if it's just the front OR rear driver side that is dropping. Whichever side drops when the battery is disconnected has a leak.
What would cause the compressor to run to much.Ive cleaned the transfer valve ,and checked the solenoid is working. There's no faults in the system,and I've checked all parts with soapy water for leaks
There's no faults in the system, like no "suspension fault normal height only" error? If there are no errors how do we know the compressor is running too much 🤔🤔🤔
@@HazyJay We had a fault for reservoir filling to slow or something to that effect. Fitted new compressor, now we've no faults but compressor seems to be running to long. If system is good how long should compressor run for?
@@gerardmartin118 The only other reason for it to run long is if there is a leak and the compressor has to pressurize larger volumes of air than normal. You can remove the suspension fuse and check the heights over night to see if any springs have dropped. My video "suspension sagging overnight" walks through the process. If there are no leaks then it's probably running as intended.
@@HazyJay Thanks very much for your help Hazy.I'll actually time it Monday when I'm back in .I left it last night at normal height and it was at same height the following morning .Hopefully it's normal the amount of time it's running. I was just afraid it was running to long and that's what damaged the old compressor. The height sensors are all reading ok I check the readings when lifting it on 2 poster lift.
Question . Is it as simple to tear that one down the same as the rear one ? I took off the rear one cleaned it up and still sags , the suspension fault comes on as soon as i start it soo im gnna attempt at checking out the middle block
@@bassnjeep6537 Usually it will come on for a short bit then cut off when the suspension fault comes on. When they're old they don't fill the reservoir fast enough and trigger a fault. It's annoying because they're pretty expensive (600$), but yeah they only last like 70k miles.
Oohh ok yea itll come on every start up but after sitting for couple minutes it will not come on anymore , rear sags first nd couple hours later all 4 corners are down to bump stops
@@bassnjeep6537The car will try to auto-level if one side is leaking, so you can try disconnecting the battery when you leave it for a few hours. If it doesn't sag after you leave it then there are no leaks, if it does then it will sag where the leak is only.
I'm getting the orange air suspension fault icon on the instrument panel but when I check the faults using my Nanocom it comes up with no faults found in all the ECU's. Weird thing is the orange icon will come up on the instrument panel while the Nanocom is searching the ECUs so it so it seems it is seeing the fault or triggering it while doing the scan. Any ideas
Hmm interesting, probably one of the more common causes is a faulty ride height sensor, I would check to see if the 4x4 info screen is showing irregular movement like seen in this video: ruclips.net/video/ipzjoeLZnq8/видео.html
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply.....please check out this video of me using the Nanocom, I'm thinking faulty right height sensor ruclips.net/video/e40sbRnHK14/видео.html
I have coil springs now, so the valve blocks serve no purpose any longer. I removed the middle valve block for educational purposes and completeness, because my next video will be the rear valve block 👌
Hi I have a 08 sport with a suspension fault, I’ve replaced the compressor, checked the struts for leaks, replaced a bad door sensor, and no luck. My compressor won’t turn on by itself but I can bypass the relay and manually fill the bags, my toggle switch to control the EAS doesn’t illuminate either, I’ve replaced all related fuses and relays as well.. any idea what my gremlin could be?
@@countereproductive Given the compressor runs and fills the bags when bypassed is reassuring, but that likely means there's a wiring fault somewhere preventing the system from activating. It was a good idea to check the door sensor (since that would disable the system), I'm thinking the culprit is something similar to that preventing the necessary system checks. This might be a exposed wire causing a fault or just a software error. Unfortunately for something like that you'd need a specific LR scanner to determine where the fault is coming from, likely at the dealer ☠
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply, I have an appointment on Friday to have the suspension recalibrated and get the code read I’ll come back with an update!
@@HazyJay I bought a gap IID tool and the code that keeps returning is C1A13-64 (AF) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery, im thinking maybe the aftermarket compressor could be the culprit cause I tried to recalibrate the system and nothing happened
So after months of chasing gremlins and replacing parts I figured out that using aftermarket compressors don’t work, I bought a used OEM compressor and voila my suspension works again!
Thank you - solved fault code on my Disco 3 - first I serviced the compressor then changed this middle valve, fault was C1A18-64.
The yellow light had been on for weeks and as I didn't have any issues with the suspension for a long time suddenly it started going into limp mode. Firstly the fault code said 'suspension rising slowly" Fault C1A20 so I serviced the compressor - car still went into limp mode and fault code changed to C1A18 - middle valve block seems to have sorted it for now. It's thanks to guys like Hazy who take the time to explain faults and resolutions that saves us money. Sometimes a £1500 dealer bill can be sorted for £50! Cheers..
I’ve just ordered a new genuine middle valve block £288 maybe price has gone crazy since you purchased yours . Hopefully it will cure my problem
Great vid. Very instructive.
I said I'd get back to you about my L320 suspension issues about 2 years ago.
I've replace the rear valve block, rear shocks and had other problems to deal with like Bearings, brakes and such, but will be doing this middle valve block very soon.
So, my way overdue update is that I am still working at it.
This truck has been much work over the past 4yrs but we do enjoy it.
Thanks for all of your help with the great vids and for you help when I've asked questions previously.
You are obviously a scholar and truly a gentleman.
Thanks again!
Be safe and God bless!😎👍
If the suspension becomes too big of a headache it's sometimes easier/more reliable to swap to coils. I did that to my L320 RRS and it has 160K miles so far, basically rids you of all suspension issues.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I have been considering that. Do you remember what coil over package you bought? I don't want to waste any more time and money buying junk if at all possible... you never know what your getting until it's too late sometimes. 🤷♂️
I did the middle valve block today and apparently I did something wrong. Now I get the "normal height only" immediately on ignition.
I had a tough time w the hose connections and think at least 1 may be too far out for a good seal. It's odd though as the compressor doesn't even think about kicking on. I get the dash warning as soon as I press ignition to on position.(do I need to reset any codes after the valve replacement?)
I'm gonna try again tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the help over the years.
You are appreciated!
@@kevinfelisberto4204 Yes I bought the lifted conversion kit from Atlantic British, this one specifically: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/, that was in May 2020 and I haven't had any issues since then. Regarding the code clearing I don't think you'll need to, immediate code makes me think the wiring might be loose or a fuse/relay is out.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply again! The info and the link too!
Ironically, I never saw your reply until now as I was coming back here to tell you that did do the conversion.
Turns out I actually did exactly that! I ended up buying and installing that exact same kit from Atlantic Brittish that you suggested and installed yourself... but before I saw your comment. So that's pretty cool!
It's a great set up and I am very happy with the ride so far.
Interesting you mentioned the possibility of a bad relay because of the immediate fault. You also mentioned that I may not need to clear any codes after my install.
I saw a few install vids and in 2 of them the codes did clear. 1 imediately, and the other after a few resarts.
Unfortunatkey I still have the in dash warnings and also no off road special programs option either. The annoying tone that sounded when the 35mph warning comes up has gone away and it only tells me that upon startup, but the red triangle stays on all the time and I cannot access the special off road options still.
Do you think that may still be happening due to the suspension relay being bad? (all fuses seem fine).
After I did the wiring, everything else about the truck seems fine... everything works!
I even had it aligned, wheels balanced and gave it an oil change at a local Sullivan Tires. I asked them to clear the suspension codes for me while they were clearing the oil change. They said they did but obviously either they messed up or it just wouldn't work.
I ended up ordering a $100 OBD2 code reader/clearer from ANCEL. It will supposedly clear the suspension codes. Should be delivered Saturday.
If you think the relay might possibly be my problem... maybe I'll order a new one. I replaced it a few years ago when all the trouble started so I figured it was still good... but maybe it's no good now?🤷♂️
Please let me know your thoughts.
As always, I really do appreciate all of your help over the years. You have been a God sent for me in my battle! Your vids are excellent tutorials and the character you've shown all of us who've reached out to you is top notch!
Thank you!!😎👍
Sorry for the lengthy message.
Thank you for the well described information. Your information has made it easy to decide how to move forward with the repairs to me car. Thanks!
Wow, these are the clearest and most straight forward instructions I’ve come across yet. However as per my mechanic diagnosis of leaking front air springs and a faulty compressor, I decided to do the job myself. The $4000 price tag was the deciding factor. The actual parts replacement went without a hitch, however upon staring the car, the compressor ran for quite sometime with the car raising an inch. I turned off the car to prevent damage to the née compressor. Once cooled down I tried again, but the compressor no longer runs. I bypassed the relay and the compressor is still operational.
It appears the reservoir is the only thing that filled, as removing this connection from the middle air block caused a lot of air to escape.
I removed the air block and solenoid and cleaned both to no avail. Would really appreciate some tips as where to go next.
Cheers Craig
When the entire system is depressurized the compressor will need to fill the empty springs and the reservoir, this does take a little while. Sometimes the compressor will fault due to getting too hot and the car will need to be restarted, this can take 3-4 car starts for the compressor to fill the reservoir and all of the springs.
If the compressor is no longer running at all (when when the car starts), there is likely a blown fuse or relay, typically it will run for a bit when the car is started.
Consider watching my video entitled "sagging overnight", it explains how the air system works and how to dx a leak, if there is leak from the spring or a valve block you will be able to find it using the method outlined.
@@HazyJay Thanks so much for the reply.
@HazyJay @HazyJay
I know this comment is after the fact, but....
I have a 2011 RRS HSE.
I get random suspension faults, that clear when I restart the vehicle. Car can raise to and lower from off road no problems. However, I will not lower to valet height. The front lowers, but the back will attempt, then kick back up and put the entire car into off road mode. This again will clear when retarting the vehicle.
Car does not sag, even when left in off road over night.
Could this be the rear valve block or the ride height sensors?
Always include a fresh dryer when serviceing, its the number 1 reason compressors over heat. The wool filter gets clogged with the Dissicant that has ben deteriated .
As always a very informative,clear and easily understandable Video from Hazy - and saved me ££££££ on labour charges. Thanks.
These videos are very helpful and thank you. Any suggestions on why my RR won’t raise at all when we have replaced compressor , rear valve block and reservoir valve block and checked the relays? The pump runs for about 2 mins but the wheels won’t raise but then a loud rush of air releases. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Contribution from me:
Air suspension deflation exit routine
1. Key on, engine off. 1.
2. Key off. 2.
3. Press and release raise switch. 3.
4. Press and release lower switch. 4.
5. Key on, engine off. 5.
6. Key on, engine running. 6.
7. Press and release raise switch twice. 7.
8. Press and release lower switch twice. 8.
9. Press and release raise switch.
Great video. Do you have a vid showing how to replace the sensors ?
Awesome video. Wondering if all 4 corners go down at the same time (after disconnecting fuse/battery), could reservoir valve block could be the culprit?
Great Videos...trying to determine which valve block controls the "vehicle liens when cornering" circuit.
Hi have a 2008 tdv8 this video is exactly what I’m experiencing with the amber warning light on dash and failure to raise the entire front of the car, would you say this middle valve block is my problem as opposed to the compressor? A replacement is £300 so I don’t want to risk spending that sort of money without being able to certain I’m doing the right thing, diagnostic tool shows a code pointing to a valve block issue, I can’t raise car enough to check any leaks at the suspension struts? Thanks
Thanks man ... another excellent VID
Who else is here trying to keep their damn RRS on the road? 😂
Mee right now after i took of the rear valve cleaned it up and put it back in and still sags the rear 🙄😂
Me my RRS Stormer too. Everything is working fine, no rust after 18 years best condition, but suspension keeps me in suspense.
So I only had air pressure from one voss connector and a massive amount. No pressure release from others. Does this mean any thing. And the error code I was getting was the same as you mentioned in this video. Thanks. Great detail with no filler. Dope video👏🏾
My 2016 range rover sport right side sag overnight, any idea what is the cause of it?
Hi.. Question please..Compressor Runs for 40 seconds or so then stops which turns on Suspension Fault Indicator.
Car runs good but something wrong for that indicator to be on.
No codes come up on Scanner saying only Communication Network failure or something so we started guessing.
Rear Valve Block changed ..then Front Valve Block changed..still same issue.
Just ordered new Hitachi Compressor and Relay..on the way.
I asked and was told Middle Valve Block is part of Compressor..is this correct or should I order a Middle Valve Block too. Thanks
Had a c1a20. Installed new compressor and still setting the code. Should I look into the valve block?
Got a question. What scanner you use for your suspension faults?
I have a 2013 RRS. Suspension is having fault issues and will not raise properly all of the sudden and I get suspension fault while driving. If I stop the vehicle and turn if off and then back on again the fault goes away, however it will come back. The vehicle will show fine in Access Hight, however, when I start to drive it eventually will automatically begin to try to raise to Normal Hight without me ever making a selection to put it to normal height. I can hear the compressor pumping but nothing happens. While I am driving and it is attempting to raise on its own to Normal Hight, (and I will even stop to try to let it do so, but it will not) and eventually I get a dash message that says that the vehicle will raise when the system cools; however, when the system cools and it again says that it is rising it is not. the rear is holding air and if I attempt to get out and push access level, the vehicle will drop in the rear, but nothing is happening that I can see up front, except, sometime I thing I see the front raise a bit when I try to get it to go to solid light on Access level. For the most part the "up arrow" is lit trying to go from Access level to Normal level but it will not go. Sometimes I also get a message that the suspension is in "Extended Mode" whatever that is, and to reset height once I have cleared an obstacle; however, I never did anything or made any type of button selection for "Extended Mode". There does not appear to be any leaking about the Air Suspension bags that I can hear; however, if is push on the rubber bags below the main portion of the strut, I can hear air, but there seem to be two factory made holes near the bottom of each rubber cover. I have taken off that dampening cover where the compressor is located and I also do not hear any air leaking from the compressor, which I did not was an AMK compressor. The ride is clearly a bit bouncy and when I get the waring red suspension fault and not to go over 30 MPH the vehicle is extremely bouncy. When that happens I pull off of the road stop the vehicle turn it off, wait a minute and then restart and the vehicle suspension fault goes away but of course the cycle just starts all over. What thoughts do you have? The compressor will run but it does get hot. When I had the dampening cover off, I noted is was very hot to the touch and while it is pumping nothing seems to be happening and I do not hear air escaping from anywhere. Is this a mid-valve issue? What should I do to trouble shoot and repair? Any help and direction you can provide me would be greatly appreciated. I do not know if I can leave my email but it is drtoney67@gmail.com if it will show up. Can I call you? Desperate! Thank you! Dennis
The vehicle will automatically rise from access height to normal height when it reaches a certain speed (8 mph?), but given your compressor is overheating it's likely worn out and needs replacing. The original compressor only lasts around 50-80k miles if you're lucky.
@@dennistoney4610 What I did a few years ago is swap to coil springs, it removes any complications with the air suspension and makes the vehicle much more reliable.
@HazyJay Thank you for getting back to me so fast. Sorry for my delay in responding, but I was outside trying to use the JLR SSD software to get more info. I would like to keep the air suspension feature is possible. I do not know if it is the original compressor or not as I bought the vehicle from a private party and it had well over a 150K now. I have a JLR VCI and SSD software. I do not know exactly how to use it as one should but I have been able to run some to the tests and gotten some DTCs. Are you familiar with the JLR SSD software? I have some screenshots I could send you but I do not see how or know how to attach them here. Do you know how or if it is even possible? Can I email them to you for you to take a look?
I am getting the following codes, C18A18-64, which is reservoir filling too rapidly, and C1A03-92 & C1A04-92 for Front Left and Right Height Sensors at 100% U0421-68-Invalid Data from Ride Level Control Module and C1130-7A for Air Spring Supply at only 7%. Does this information help you help me? Thank you!
I have a 2011 sc and my front right would go low for about a year then the front left. So I had it taken to DuSouth in Dallas. They replaced both front struts and the air compressor for about 3k. That's without taking care of a click sound I would here driving around parking lot. So the right started going low 2 months later so I took it in for warranty. They replaced the from right because it started leaking again.. Who knows why? But the also replaced the sway bar assembly which alone costed like 2200. 2500 after shipping. I had them replace the differential fluid since it was already there. 130k miles. Ended up spending another 3700. I've had the gas tank small evap leak fixed that was like 700 at land Rover and that was the second time I had that done. First time was in college station and didn't want to go back for warranty since I live in dfw. While in college station I also had a head gasket seal, maps sensor, and a manifold hose replaced, and tuneup with new plugs that was like 2200. Last week I dropped off a wing to get painted 200 for the wing and 315 for the paint and I'm putting it on myself. The top part of my wing flew off from bieng old and separating.. I'm about 1 more repair away from losing my sh*t. Hahaha Just remembered I replaced my coolant reservior a month ago because it kept saying it was low but wasn't using one of your videos. That one wasn't bad 40 bucks and half an hour. Anyone have any idea on how to put in new tpms sensors without taking it to land Rover?? Tired of seeing the tpms light come on
Wow that's a lot of repairs. That's one reason I switched to coil springs, the EAS has too many problems to constantly be fiddling with them. Regarding the TPMS sensors, you can try removing USB accessories from the cabin as these can sometimes interfere with the signal. Things like USB adapters, power inverters, dash cams, etc.
Hello, can you tell me if a clogged reservoir valve block can cause the ride to be stiff and at other times smooth or even cause a rapid increase in pressure inside the reservoir?
hmm i think i need to clean or change my one too !! i got a new compressor now new rear valve block .... but i still get the error code c1a13-64 pressure does not decrease when venting gallery. So wonder if its again to compressor i just run 1 day ;(
I have a 2008 RR supercharged car has 80k miles and is a good car. I left it at maximum height and disconnected the battery and measured every corner height, 24hrs later the front seemed to be completely on the bump stops and the rear did not move at all. Any tips with diagnosis appreciated! I sprayed soapy water on the front valve block and did no see any issue there.. I sprayed the front air bags as best as I could without taking tires off and did not see any issues. I did not get to spray the air inlet to the air shocks as I did it all without removing the fender liner…
Usually when the valve block leaks, it doesn't leak "around" the block, rather the seals will leak back to the compressor to vent. Because of this, spraying soapy water on the valve block might not show bubbles even though it is "leaking" back to the compressor and allowing the front to sag. I would start with replacing the front valve block since it's relatively cheap, if you still have issues let me know.
Hazy you got excellent videos n straight to the point! So I recently had my air dryer was all rusted because I was stuck in muddy water! So when I came home I had all kinds of faults! Took the compressor out checked the dryer it was all jammed all the filters in it! So I ended up replacing the compressor (Arnott brand) paid a lot of money for it! But didn’t solve the problem! Rear end stuck in extended mode and front drop all the way! Here is the codes I’m getting on my gap tool ! C1A13-64 and c1A36-01 if you could please help me with this I would greatly appreciated it! Thanks a lot !
Well the C1A13-64 error is usually a problem with venting OUT air, the solenoids can get stuck closed if clogged with water as well as the compressor vent itself. You can consider changing the rear solenoid to see if that unsticks the rear end.
@@HazyJay thanks a lot!! I’ll look into it!
What is round plastic part with wires on top of suspension and it lose and free?
Hi there
My Range Rover sport won’t lower from the back. Can u advice
My 2011 air compressor keep running every 5 to 10 minutes no fault codes no leak detected what can cause that? Any idea?
Ive gone thru so many ebay compressors. In one day they with a leak at the valve body they take a bullet. I have a question, how many PSI should be at the blue tab on the dry when full. My obd2 says theres 250lbs in system. Is there supposed to be that many at the hose/blue tab? Those always go first. Next i found a leak at the middle rear hose on that valve block. Does the valve block shut off the psi to the tank? Because at this leak my lr3 drops down after a day.
Can you do a videos showing the functionality of this valve body? Like what does the switch do? What stops the psi from coming back out the tank, etc. Maybe we're the air tank check valve is at. Maybe the system is not discharging after pumping up causing too much psi at the valve block.
I'm not sure of the specific PSI but my my video "suspension sagging overnight" talks about the solenoid function. Basically when they're not energized the 3 chambers are all closed and no air moves unless energized.
Great videos. My RRS goes up nice and fast however struggles to be lowered down. Any ideas?
My left side drops and airs up kinda lower than the right side. What do you think might be my issue here?
Watch my video called "Sagging overnight" to see if it's a leak or if you need calibration.
Hi what about that RQB000418 AIR INTAKE TUBE & FILTER
It this can make any problem ?
Thanks
Please can i have the part number for my rang rover sport 2016
Please help. On at start up there is a loud noise from the compressor then it stops, 5 minutes down the road I get the yellow light normal ride height only. I did lower the car and it took a good 3 minutes to pump the system up again. Sometimes the light comes on immediately but the loud noise from the compressor occurs on start up everytime. Any ideas??
I have a 2010 RRS. The suspension seems to work fine. When putting the vehicle into off-road height, it stays up overnight without issue. The problem I am having is going into access mode. I have an elderly mother and putting the vehicle into access mode really helps to get her into the car. When I select access mode, it shows a suspension fault. If I switch of the vehicle, sometimes several times, it will go into access mode. On occasion as it gets to its lowest, it then goes into a extended mode. Is it an issue with one or all of the valve blocks not evacuating the air? Many thanks.
If it was an issue with the valve blocks you would expect a similar error when going from extended to normal height as well, so it's possible the vehicle thinks there is an obstacle. Sometimes this can be due to a poor alignment causing too much strain when going into access height. You may need a dealer to check the codes to determine the source.
@@HazyJay Many thanks for that information. I will take it to my Land Rover specialist.
Does the warning light go away when u changed it? Afraid to change it myself and the light still shows then I need to go to a garage anyways, thx
The suspension fault like is more commonly due to a faulty compressor rather than middle valve block. If you haven't changed the compressor in 50K miles or more, I'd start there.
c1a13-64 pressure does not decrease when venting gallery
Best tutor
Hi question, first your videos are awesome as to your video how to replace the air pump which we, me and me son done after watching your video, now after a week my suspension as gone into Extended mode when I was reversing on my drive and I can't get it done back to normal ride high any advice to this please, need help.
Thank's Mike
Usually this would be from an erroneous reading of height from the height sensor. Consider studying the 4x4 info screen for any inappropriate readings of the wheel heights.
Normally you disconnect the negative pole of the battery to avoid generating sparks when you connect it later.
Yeah the theory is sulfuric acid/lead based batteries can generate hydrogen gas which could flare up when connecting, so usually when you jump a car you connect the negative to a body source last and not the terminal. My battery is a AGM battery so creates little to no gas.
I have a 06 range rover l322 new compressor,air bags & height sensors 2 weeks ago truck lower all 4 tires and both rear and front valve block making a clicking sound when trying to rise but won't let up all the way up you think my valve block have fail?
It's not uncommon to have the desiccant powder cause the valve blocks to leak or become stuck closed/open, but it would be unlikely for front and rear to fail at the same time. Watch the video "sagging over night" to try to narrow down the exact part that's failing.
I think I might have messed up the order of my lines on block how can I tell if I did it right
There are a bunch of lines so it may have happened, I would just carefully refer to the video and see where the lines are supposed to go (left spring, right spring, reservoir, etc), and trace them back.
Hi, I always hear at the rear left side of the car (RRS 2005 ) a strange noise just before to see ''default suspension.... ''What do you think about it ? Valve block or compressor ?! Thanks
That's likely the compressor given the location of the sound (should sound like a electric pump running), unfortunately a fault after starting the car and the compressor running for a bit is likely the compressor failing to achieve adequate pressure fast enough, this means you likely need a new compressor.
Excellent video, RRS 2005, recently changed all 4 suspension. Car now drives nice and smooth, only issue is, if parking for a few days without driving, it lowers down to full access height. What do you think I’ve missed.
You may still have a leak (valve blocks, hoses), consider watchin my video "sagging over night" to find out where the leak is
ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
@@HazyJay Thanx and keep up the excellent work
Can the Centre valve block lower my front end only when the fuse F26 is pulled? After removing the F26 fuse I had both my front end deflate equally, after buying a brand mee front air valve I still had the same issue. So I’m wondering if the Centre valve block can be responsive me for lowering the front only?
@@fouadmikail8945 center block really only fills the reservoir, so it shouldn't cause front end drop 👌
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply Hazy! So why do you think my front end is still dropping equally after changing the front valve block and removing the F26 Fuse? Can I get so unlucky to get both struts leaking at the same rate?
@@fouadmikail8945 possible that both struts are leaking, that's really only reason why it would, you could try disconnecting battery altogether. I would try using a spray bottle with soap and see if you can see any bubbles
@@HazyJay Appreciate your reply bro🙏 I’ll try disconnecting the battery and spraying some soapy water on the struts!
I have suspension fault codes and fluid leaking from my dynamic steering fluid reservoir after driving even though it’s closed. Could this reservoir valve block be causing this?
It's unlikely, this reservoir communicates only with the compressor and air springs and there is no fluid present within.
Question for you.
My 2007 Range Rover hse sport has the suspension fault normal height only
•the screen on the 4x4 info shows the sensors aren’t going up or down but they are a little uneven maybe like half an inch on the screen
• when starting the car the compressor works for 15 seconds or so then stops
•every now and then the air suspension will work with no issues
• also when driving any little bump will make the car shake like crazy it’s like being hit by a wave
What do you think I should do
The real question is are the wheels at different heights in real life vs. just on the screen. If the screen shows different heights than what is in reality then the height sensors need calibration. If the heights match up but are bad (one side if lower), then you may have a problem with the valve block or spring. The compressor should run when the car starts to refill the reservoir. SUPER bumpy ride could be due to the springs being totally decompressed and on the rubber bump stops, is it bumpy when the springs are very low? If so it's because they are totally deflated.
If you haven't replaced the compressor in 40K+ miles it's likely that, but watch this video to find the exact thing to look for: ruclips.net/video/dVowjVWG6kM/видео.html
2009 RR sport,initial problem was sagging overnight which was solved by replacing the front valve block leaking internally after spending money on the wrong culprit which was both the front air stut,the car was ok for 5 months,then it started dropping below normal height both front &rear ,now it wont raise ,not even a single inch,my compressor is still fuctional as i swapped with my friends RR and raises the car with no issues,checked for leaks on both the resevoir and front valve block and there is none,what i have noticed is,on the front valve block,the air supply is there(wabbles the supply hose violently when disconnected),but the solenoids remain closed to both front air bags,i have checked this by disconnecting both hoses that feed the front air stuts from the front valve block,not even a single hiss of air(even with the front valve block dismatled & powered only,i expect it to pull the spool for the air strut valves),does the system need to pressrize the air reservoir fully first before sending the output signal to the valve blocks(incase the resevoir tank is leaking)how do i test the individual solenoids for the fron valve block numbered from 1 to 6 to ensure i am receiving the ourput signal from the EAS ECU,i am literally stuck ,the car is a sitting duck,can we engage.....
The vehicle will NOT pressurize the reservoir first, it will run both compressor and send any air from reservoir in order to speed up height changes at startup (sounds like yours is >2cm low, which would engage both), so I don't think it's a leaking reservoir. You can watch my video "sagging over night" to find a potential leak, but the big question is why it won't rise, because even with a small leak over night it should still rise. The middle solenoid just fills the reservoir, so in theory it isn't needed, but if it's stuck open it may trigger a "pressure rising too slowly" fault and shut off the air suspension system. As far as testing the solenoids, you would need a LR-specific reader, I'm not sure how to do that easily.
@@HazyJay Thanks for the prompt response,that is where i am stuck,it behaves as if the compressor is shot,but its working flawlessly in another car,or could i be having wiring harness problems,power related,what i have deduced is the front solenoid valves are stuck closed & the front valve block is barely new,5 months,i even tried the old one same thing,fuses behind the glove box are all good,the middle solenoid i agree with you it is fine because air supply arrives @ the front valve block,il do further testing and bring come back with more concrete feedback
Hi, you mention that the fault code C1A20 gallery filling too slow most likely is the compressor, but I'm getting the fault codes C1A13 (pressure does not decrease when venting gallery) and C1A18 (Pressure increases too rapid when filling the gallery) wouldent that suggest a faulty middle valve-block?? Thanks for a beautiful video!
Jasper, I changed my front left sensor, and it went away. Just saying
Great vid thankyou 👍👍
My supsension light is on.. And I've done change the two front air springs the front valve block the middle valve block all four height sensor brakes light switch and the light is still on and I have a sag just on the front passenger side,, it doesn't sit nomarl like the other 3 sides..
Is it a sag that gets worse while parked? If it's stable while parked the height likely just needs calibration at the dealer.
@@HazyJay no it stays the same. But it will leak down.. But when in normal ride mode it doesn't sit like the driver side, it sits about 2 or 3 inches lower than the driver side.. Im thinking the fitting might be leaking cause I didn't change the fitting along with the new air spring.. It was doin the same thing with the old air spring sagging, thats why I changed it..
@@MrCt302 If it leaks lower with the battery unplugged overnight then it's likely the fitting. If the battery is unplugged and it stays where it is overnight then it needs calibration. Good luck!
I have a range rover 2011. I keep getting suspension error whenever I drive It bends down from the front left side. Please assist what should I do??
Please watch my video "sagging over night" to determine if it's a leak and where the leak is
2007 RRS HSE. Suspension fault light came on. I replaced the compressor and hear it run just fine on start up, but after about 10 or 15 seconds the fault light comes on and the compressor quits. Should the next step be to replace this valve block? The car seems lower in the front that the rear. Or should I be looking at something else? Also, Ive read that the suspension needs to be reset after compressor replacement, so is that the problem? Thanks for your videos.
Did you replace with an OEM compressor (like $700) or the aftermarket one ($150), unfortunately the aftermarket one doesn't always work as well. I don't think it's the valve blocks since this wouldn't cause your symptoms. You're supposed to have the suspension recalibrated after any suspension item is swapped (i never did this but you're "supposed" to), but it's primarily to ensure the suspension is level. If you swapped to the AMK compressor the ECU will need to be flashed or the symptoms you describe will happen.
@@HazyJay I bought an after market compressor. I'll be getting a new vehicle in a couple months so I didn't want to drop nearly $1K on it. Could it be a leak? I don't live near a dealer, so can't just take it down to diagnose the issue.
@@tribefan668 Usually the compressor will fault after starting for 2 reasons: the compressor gets too hot (bad compressor), or there is a significant leak (one of the hoses) that's preventing the compressor from creating a reasonable pressure within a reasonable time. Is your suspension at a normal height or is the car totally depressed.
@@HazyJay down all the way. Very rough ride.
@@HazyJay do you have a link for the OEM compressor? Where would you suggest getting it? I see them for about $600 on eBay, but over $1,000 from rover dealerships.
Thanks
if the suspension is dropping on one side only after being parked for a short time, is this the valve block most likely to be at fault?
Hmm do you mean front or back, or just one wheel?
@@HazyJay haha... front and back but only on one side. the drinker side...
@@joemorris22 There isn't one valve that controls the driver side height, the middle valve sends air to the front and rear equally, then it's those valve blocks that send to the left or right side. It's possible you have a leak simultaneously on the left front and rear springs. I would park the car, disconnect the battery, and see if it's just the front OR rear driver side that is dropping. Whichever side drops when the battery is disconnected has a leak.
What would cause the compressor to run to much.Ive cleaned the transfer valve ,and checked the solenoid is working. There's no faults in the system,and I've checked all parts with soapy water for leaks
There's no faults in the system, like no "suspension fault normal height only" error? If there are no errors how do we know the compressor is running too much 🤔🤔🤔
@@HazyJay We had a fault for reservoir filling to slow or something to that effect.
Fitted new compressor, now we've no faults but compressor seems to be running to long.
If system is good how long should compressor run for?
@@gerardmartin118 I'm not sure the exact numbers, but it's not uncommon to run for a few minutes after the car starts, maybe around 3-5 minutes
@@gerardmartin118 The only other reason for it to run long is if there is a leak and the compressor has to pressurize larger volumes of air than normal. You can remove the suspension fuse and check the heights over night to see if any springs have dropped. My video "suspension sagging overnight" walks through the process. If there are no leaks then it's probably running as intended.
@@HazyJay Thanks very much for your help Hazy.I'll actually time it Monday when I'm back in .I left it last night at normal height and it was at same height the following morning .Hopefully it's normal the amount of time it's running. I was just afraid it was running to long and that's what damaged the old compressor. The height sensors are all reading ok I check the readings when lifting it on 2 poster lift.
What is wrong my car compressor run continue
What if the right side is only sagging?
I would watch and follow the steps of my "sagging over night" video to determine if it's a leak, where the leak is, or if you just need calibration
Question . Is it as simple to tear that one down the same as the rear one ? I took off the rear one cleaned it up and still sags , the suspension fault comes on as soon as i start it soo im gnna attempt at checking out the middle block
The middle valve block only has one valve so it's easier to clean. If it's been about 70K miles since your last compressor it may be that as well.
@@HazyJay even if thr compressor comes on as it should ? Or
@@bassnjeep6537 Usually it will come on for a short bit then cut off when the suspension fault comes on. When they're old they don't fill the reservoir fast enough and trigger a fault.
It's annoying because they're pretty expensive (600$), but yeah they only last like 70k miles.
Oohh ok yea itll come on every start up but after sitting for couple minutes it will not come on anymore , rear sags first nd couple hours later all 4 corners are down to bump stops
@@bassnjeep6537The car will try to auto-level if one side is leaking, so you can try disconnecting the battery when you leave it for a few hours. If it doesn't sag after you leave it then there are no leaks, if it does then it will sag where the leak is only.
👍👍👍👍
I have L409 C1A27-13 plz axplane
My code is C1B07 -19 changed the valve but no joy
I'm getting the orange air suspension fault icon on the instrument panel but when I check the faults using my Nanocom it comes up with no faults found in all the ECU's. Weird thing is the orange icon will come up on the instrument panel while the Nanocom is searching the ECUs so it so it seems it is seeing the fault or triggering it while doing the scan. Any ideas
Hmm interesting, probably one of the more common causes is a faulty ride height sensor, I would check to see if the 4x4 info screen is showing irregular movement like seen in this video: ruclips.net/video/ipzjoeLZnq8/видео.html
@@HazyJay Thanks for the reply.....please check out this video of me using the Nanocom, I'm thinking faulty right height sensor ruclips.net/video/e40sbRnHK14/видео.html
What issue prompted you to replace that valve block?
I have coil springs now, so the valve blocks serve no purpose any longer. I removed the middle valve block for educational purposes and completeness, because my next video will be the rear valve block 👌
Toyota 👍
Common problems to fail ...... Names all components
Начался призыв в армию, но кто пойдет служить рядовым? Кто хочет воевать за "московского тирана"?.
Hi I have a 08 sport with a suspension fault, I’ve replaced the compressor, checked the struts for leaks, replaced a bad door sensor, and no luck. My compressor won’t turn on by itself but I can bypass the relay and manually fill the bags, my toggle switch to control the EAS doesn’t illuminate either, I’ve replaced all related fuses and relays as well.. any idea what my gremlin could be?
A side note my compressor doesn’t turn on either unless I jump the relay
@@countereproductive Given the compressor runs and fills the bags when bypassed is reassuring, but that likely means there's a wiring fault somewhere preventing the system from activating. It was a good idea to check the door sensor (since that would disable the system), I'm thinking the culprit is something similar to that preventing the necessary system checks. This might be a exposed wire causing a fault or just a software error. Unfortunately for something like that you'd need a specific LR scanner to determine where the fault is coming from, likely at the dealer ☠
@@HazyJay thanks for the reply, I have an appointment on Friday to have the suspension recalibrated and get the code read I’ll come back with an update!
@@HazyJay I bought a gap IID tool and the code that keeps returning is C1A13-64 (AF) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery, im thinking maybe the aftermarket compressor could be the culprit cause I tried to recalibrate the system and nothing happened
So after months of chasing gremlins and replacing parts I figured out that using aftermarket compressors don’t work, I bought a used OEM compressor and voila my suspension works again!