Love the way you accept everyone’s constructive advice and even action some of them… a lot of RUclipsrs take it very personally and negatively which is a shame as there is a wealth of experience out there in the comments.
I’m by no means an expert and constantly learning. In fact, this is one of my main reasons for documenting my build on RUclips-getting feedback and guidance will make this build better than what I could do otherwise. 👍
A suggestion, make the battery holder a ‘door with the battery mounted on top of the door panel, hinged at one end with a quick release on the other end, so it is a quick and easy to access the battery. Also add a charge fly lead so it can be charged without need to access the battery 👍
Another suggestion, get some rubber boots for the main power cables like the connector on the PDM so any accidental dropping of tools etc doesn’t give a 4th July show 👍
I couldn''t have been the only one thinking "Noooo!!!" at sight of the nylon battery strap, thankfully our stress was quickly calmed by a good aluminum bracket. 😅
Funny you sat that…I was contemplating not including that footage in the video but I figured I’d give everyone a panic attack if I included the strap shot. Lol.
Or on second thoughts, DO bond the duct to the clam, but have them drop into an oversized pipe with a seal rather than the suggested flexi pipe arrangement. Also some mesh to stop leaves etc going down the hole
You can get oem plenum (below the windscreen) or air filter grommets that are used to drain but almost act like a one way to stop rodents and dirt going the wrong way. They are a short tube with a puckered split to the end if that makes sense… just Google images of car water drains 👍 these are better than a small hose, they will flow more water so if you are washing the car or caught out in a down pour the silcon elbows don’t fill up.
Tip When using rivnuts put super glue or locktite around them to help glue them in especially it they’re a different metal to the job. This helps prevent corrosion and reduces the risk of the rivnut spinning.
The thing about those lithium batteries is that they are designed as a drop in replacement for a regular lead acid battery BUT they don’t have to be. If you were to cut open one of those batteries you would find a charging control and balance board and several individual lithium cells and probably a lot of empty space filled by some kind of padding. If you shop carefully you will find that two batteries of the same dimensions might have vastly different power ratings and the higher power one will be a little heavier because there are more cells and less padding. The really good ones have two seperate cell sections and super capacitors in them instead of just lithium cells, they have a smart controller that switches off the bank with the capacitors if the battery starts to go flat so that you will always be able to start the car. You could even buy the controllers and cells separately and make your own battery to fit any location you have.
Tip for drilling through something you don’t want to scratch. Make a template out of something like a bit of Perspex or alloy and hot glue it to the job, also glue on a backing plate to prevent bending or tear out if needed. Drill the holes and remove the glue with isopropyl alcohol.
Deserve more subs! You've been doing a great job. Can't believe it took 6 months for the wing end plates though. Seems like you have the skills to have made those in a couple of days!
I contemplated making my own but since I was in no rush and these are VERY visible, I decided to buy a set. But I am planning on doing some carbon work in the cockpit. 💪
Hi Dan cars looking great I'm very envious of you and your skills and I've been an Engineer for over fifty years building very large engines in ships and large 24 cylinder engines running generators in hospitals.
Great work Dan. I like the idea of the reinforced rubber washers and will look into those for my project. Might I suggest creating the NACA holes on the clamshell, with 1/4" foam seals between the clam and the ducts. This would reduce the risks of the mobile ducting being twisted into unfortunate proximity with the exhaust.
I was going to say something about how you could basically just have all of that intake stuff mounted semi-solid underneath . And then when you close the lid down on it have it so that the lid just basically makes a seal . Some quarter inch foam or something would make it so that it could move around a bit and not break anything .
The bolts will probably rub on the spindle too! You can clearance the alloy away from the hub adapter without harming it as long as you keep to a uniform smooth radius. You could easily take two or three millimetres off it with out compromising the strength.
stumbled across this in my recommended videos, and im very glad I clicked. I've watched a few ultima builds, but this is the first v10 ive seen. Most people go with an LS motor, but I feel like if the ultima is going to be a true supercar/hypercar and compete with the likes of lamborghinis, ferraris, and mclarens, it deserves a v10 to give it a real nice supercar exhaust note and powertrain! I'm not too knowledgeable about the ins and outs of building a car, but I worked at an auto auction for a bit and had a lot of fun "test driving" some of the cars that came in. In the future, I hope to buy a jaguar f type svr, because I love their exhaust notes and balance of performance and luxury, but I love anything that's fast and has a lot of power, and this Ultima clearly fits that description! awesome stuff, I'm subscribing and turning on notifications so I can follow this build!
The soldering of those connections may fail. You cannot dry solder like that only the outside wires will be contacting the solder. You need to wet the wire with solder before putting it into the terminal so that each strand has some solder holding it to its neighbours. Or wet the terminal a little push in the wire keep the heat on and feed in more solder until it stops soaking in. Or better yet use the motor sport preferred method of crimping. You can make a suitable crimper by putting two bits of steel in the vice and drilling a hole between them that’s a little smaller than the terminal you’re using. You then put the terminal in the hole and tighten the vice to crimp the terminal. Not as good as one of those hydraulic crimpers but it works well.
Hello Dan , incredible build video, thank you for taking the time to document and share ! I’m seriously considering building an Ultima myself and would like to install power steering. Can you provide the name of the system you choose and perhaps why you decided to go this direction. Also if you can go over it in an upcoming episode it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for the time with my question.
Hi John-thanks for the note and glad you’re along for the ride. 👍 The electric power assist steering unit is made by DC Electronics and called “DCE Microsteer”; part# EPAS200. It’s funny you ask about this as I’ll be briefly talking about it in my next video, which I’m half done producing now. Other builders mentioned this is one of the best upgrades for the car so I couldn’t resist. This unit is also capable of being speed sensitive: high assist at low speeds and low/no assist at high speeds. 💪
For the intake Make a small box with the lid connected to the naca duct and the base connected to the air filter and a rubber pad to form a seal. Don’t use that flexible hose you will regret it if you do.
Nice work it’s getting closer. I know it’s late comment but why not hard mount intake vents where they are now and place foam on top of flange so when you open and close the the body will rest on vent and just clean hole on body up
Could you not bond the ducts to the clam? Leave them mounted on the intake system, and have a rubber seal on the flange that then pushes up on the clam. Will make opening and closing easier.
Thanks for another great video, Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. Still in Maine until next Saturday, Jet Blue wouldn’t take my boxes on an any international travel.
The way you described it. I think it would be a nightmare trying to open and close the clam shell. Make some mounting brackets so the intake tubes are more ridgid and try to bond something 3D printed or fiberglass to the underside of the shell to seal up with the intakes.
@@DanDulac I think this suggestion is a big practicality point, but one other thing it might help with is smooth airflow. NACA duct into a flexy tube seems like a waste versus a well-made rigid elbow; maybe the difference wouldn't be enough to matter, but a few percents count sometimes. Either way, I have to say the NACA ducts and the overall cold air setup look absolutely top-notch.
@@jamespray I think I’m going to try this idea. If it doesn’t work, I can always bond the ducts to the clam as plan-B (harder to do it the other way round). That settles it. 👍
@@DanDulac Very true! With a one-off project and big, hard-to-replace parts, "reversibility" is a smart consideration when exploring potential solutions. Can't wait to see how it pans out! There's got to be examples out there to reference off, too -- you can't be the first guy trying to solve "intake in a removable panel". Turboprop cowlings on aircraft often have multiple intakes along these lines...
@@DanDulac as other have already suggested this same solution, I'll just echo their thoughts, because having to reconnect hoses each time you open the clam is going to drive you bonkers. Everyone and their brother is going to want you to lift the clam every time they see the car, and having a simple close procedure is going to save you grey hairs! :)
@Dan Dulac Soldering the ring lugs to the cable like that is definitely not optimal, and can lead to fatigue and breakage. Get yourself a hydraulic crimper. They’re like $40 and a much better result
HI Dan, sick set up! (im taking notes)....for the CAI how did u compute for air volume< im no the fence of doing sealed ones like the ones you have but i dont have enough info with regards to what is needed per hp/engine size. thanks again
Hi Kontra…the diameter of the OEM throttle bodies is 3.5-inches. My custom intake track will be the same 3.5” all the way to the NACA ducts; but the ducts are 3” opening. However, I believe the high pressure zone created by the NACA duct will actually improve airflow over OEM setup. Hope those helps!
@@DanDulac sweet thanks Dan for the info and i watch your journey it gives me a perspective on how much i need to learn and develop lol! your an inspiration bradah!
I just found this project and I am mesmerized. Can't turn this off. Your talents and imagination are a grand slam. 11/13/22
Welcome to the madness Butch! Glad you found my channel and build. It's been quite the journey--enjoy the ride!
Love the way you accept everyone’s constructive advice and even action some of them… a lot of RUclipsrs take it very personally and negatively which is a shame as there is a wealth of experience out there in the comments.
I’m by no means an expert and constantly learning. In fact, this is one of my main reasons for documenting my build on RUclips-getting feedback and guidance will make this build better than what I could do otherwise. 👍
The schwinggg edit is rad
When my kids saw it, they were like: “what was that? What does that mean?” The new generation missed out. Lol.
A suggestion, make the battery holder a ‘door with the battery mounted on top of the door panel, hinged at one end with a quick release on the other end, so it is a quick and easy to access the battery. Also add a charge fly lead so it can be charged without need to access the battery 👍
Very cool idea!
Another suggestion, get some rubber boots for the main power cables like the connector on the PDM so any accidental dropping of tools etc doesn’t give a 4th July show 👍
Always enjoy this build, could watch an hour of it. Looking forward for the next episode. Thank you👍
The pleasure is all mine. Thanks for tuning in and joining me in the fun. 👍
I am super impressed by your build Dan. Super project ! Hello from France
Merci Frederic!
Can't wait to see the finished car
I couldn''t have been the only one thinking "Noooo!!!" at sight of the nylon battery strap, thankfully our stress was quickly calmed by a good aluminum bracket. 😅
Funny you sat that…I was contemplating not including that footage in the video but I figured I’d give everyone a panic attack if I included the strap shot. Lol.
I thought it as well. Great solution again Dan.
Or on second thoughts, DO bond the duct to the clam, but have them drop into an oversized pipe with a seal rather than the suggested flexi pipe arrangement. Also some mesh to stop leaves etc going down the hole
I like this idea. Hmmm, now you’ve got me thinking…thanks for the suggestion Simon!
You can get oem plenum (below the windscreen) or air filter grommets that are used to drain but almost act like a one way to stop rodents and dirt going the wrong way. They are a short tube with a puckered split to the end if that makes sense… just Google images of car water drains 👍 these are better than a small hose, they will flow more water so if you are washing the car or caught out in a down pour the silcon elbows don’t fill up.
Great advice-love it. I’ll look into this!
Happy turkey day from Canada ! love the build !
Thanks Cam. 🙏
Amazing engineering and attention to detail every single video you post. Awesome progress so far, you should be very proud of your work. 👍👍👍
Thank you for the kind words Craig. I’m having a blast!
Tip
When using rivnuts put super glue or locktite around them to help glue them in especially it they’re a different metal to the job.
This helps prevent corrosion and reduces the risk of the rivnut spinning.
The thing about those lithium batteries is that they are designed as a drop in replacement for a regular lead acid battery BUT they don’t have to be. If you were to cut open one of those batteries you would find a charging control and balance board and several individual lithium cells and probably a lot of empty space filled by some kind of padding.
If you shop carefully you will find that two batteries of the same dimensions might have vastly different power ratings and the higher power one will be a little heavier because there are more cells and less padding.
The really good ones have two seperate cell sections and super capacitors in them instead of just lithium cells, they have a smart controller that switches off the bank with the capacitors if the battery starts to go flat so that you will always be able to start the car.
You could even buy the controllers and cells separately and make your own battery to fit any location you have.
Let me know if you need any help once you start diving into the Motec. You can copy some of my functions to make setup easier.
Thanks Will! It won’t be long before I’m knee deep in MoTeC software. 🤪
Tip for drilling through something you don’t want to scratch.
Make a template out of something like a bit of Perspex or alloy and hot glue it to the job, also glue on a backing plate to prevent bending or tear out if needed. Drill the holes and remove the glue with isopropyl alcohol.
Deserve more subs! You've been doing a great job. Can't believe it took 6 months for the wing end plates though. Seems like you have the skills to have made those in a couple of days!
I contemplated making my own but since I was in no rush and these are VERY visible, I decided to buy a set. But I am planning on doing some carbon work in the cockpit. 💪
Hi Dan cars looking great I'm very envious of you and your skills and I've been an Engineer for over fifty years building very large engines in ships and large 24 cylinder engines running generators in hospitals.
Great work Dan. I like the idea of the reinforced rubber washers and will look into those for my project.
Might I suggest creating the NACA holes on the clamshell, with 1/4" foam seals between the clam and the ducts. This would reduce the risks of the mobile ducting being twisted into unfortunate proximity with the exhaust.
I was going to say something about how you could basically just have all of that intake stuff mounted semi-solid underneath . And then when you close the lid down on it have it so that the lid just basically makes a seal . Some quarter inch foam or something would make it so that it could move around a bit and not break anything .
The bolts will probably rub on the spindle too!
You can clearance the alloy away from the hub adapter without harming it as long as you keep to a uniform smooth radius.
You could easily take two or three millimetres off it with out compromising the strength.
stumbled across this in my recommended videos, and im very glad I clicked. I've watched a few ultima builds, but this is the first v10 ive seen. Most people go with an LS motor, but I feel like if the ultima is going to be a true supercar/hypercar and compete with the likes of lamborghinis, ferraris, and mclarens, it deserves a v10 to give it a real nice supercar exhaust note and powertrain! I'm not too knowledgeable about the ins and outs of building a car, but I worked at an auto auction for a bit and had a lot of fun "test driving" some of the cars that came in. In the future, I hope to buy a jaguar f type svr, because I love their exhaust notes and balance of performance and luxury, but I love anything that's fast and has a lot of power, and this Ultima clearly fits that description! awesome stuff, I'm subscribing and turning on notifications so I can follow this build!
Glad you stumbled across my videos and channel. It's been great fun and sure to get a lot more exciting!
I dig the jet fighter arrows, lol! (I was like, wait, did that have a hole in it?)
Good eye! F-14 shaped arrows to go along with the project theme. 😎
The soldering of those connections may fail.
You cannot dry solder like that only the outside wires will be contacting the solder.
You need to wet the wire with solder before putting it into the terminal so that each strand has some solder holding it to its neighbours.
Or wet the terminal a little push in the wire keep the heat on and feed in more solder until it stops soaking in.
Or better yet use the motor sport preferred method of crimping.
You can make a suitable crimper by putting two bits of steel in the vice and drilling a hole between them that’s a little smaller than the terminal you’re using. You then put the terminal in the hole and tighten the vice to crimp the terminal.
Not as good as one of those hydraulic crimpers but it works well.
Hello Dan , incredible build video, thank you for taking the time to document and share ! I’m seriously considering building an Ultima myself and would like to install power steering. Can you provide the name of the system you choose and perhaps why you decided to go this direction. Also if you can go over it in an upcoming episode it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for the time with my question.
Hi John-thanks for the note and glad you’re along for the ride. 👍 The electric power assist steering unit is made by DC Electronics and called “DCE Microsteer”; part# EPAS200. It’s funny you ask about this as I’ll be briefly talking about it in my next video, which I’m half done producing now. Other builders mentioned this is one of the best upgrades for the car so I couldn’t resist. This unit is also capable of being speed sensitive: high assist at low speeds and low/no assist at high speeds. 💪
For the intake
Make a small box with the lid connected to the naca duct and the base connected to the air filter and a rubber pad to form a seal.
Don’t use that flexible hose you will regret it if you do.
Nice work it’s getting closer. I know it’s late comment but why not hard mount intake vents where they are now and place foam on top of flange so when you open and close the the body will rest on vent and just clean hole on body up
I have watched all of your videos, great job.
Thanks Wayne. I’m glad you’re enjoying the journey!
Could you not bond the ducts to the clam? Leave them mounted on the intake system, and have a rubber seal on the flange that then pushes up on the clam. Will make opening and closing easier.
Thanks for another great video, Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. Still in Maine until next Saturday, Jet Blue wouldn’t take my boxes on an any international travel.
Happy thanksgiving man get build .
Thanks Blake. Happy Turkey Day to you too! 🦃
The way you described it. I think it would be a nightmare trying to open and close the clam shell. Make some mounting brackets so the intake tubes are more ridgid and try to bond something 3D printed or fiberglass to the underside of the shell to seal up with the intakes.
Hmmm…interesting idea. I’ll noodle on this. It would certainly reduce any potential ‘binding’ of the clam when open and closing. Thanks for the idea!
@@DanDulac I think this suggestion is a big practicality point, but one other thing it might help with is smooth airflow. NACA duct into a flexy tube seems like a waste versus a well-made rigid elbow; maybe the difference wouldn't be enough to matter, but a few percents count sometimes. Either way, I have to say the NACA ducts and the overall cold air setup look absolutely top-notch.
@@jamespray I think I’m going to try this idea. If it doesn’t work, I can always bond the ducts to the clam as plan-B (harder to do it the other way round). That settles it. 👍
@@DanDulac Very true! With a one-off project and big, hard-to-replace parts, "reversibility" is a smart consideration when exploring potential solutions. Can't wait to see how it pans out! There's got to be examples out there to reference off, too -- you can't be the first guy trying to solve "intake in a removable panel". Turboprop cowlings on aircraft often have multiple intakes along these lines...
@@DanDulac as other have already suggested this same solution, I'll just echo their thoughts, because having to reconnect hoses each time you open the clam is going to drive you bonkers. Everyone and their brother is going to want you to lift the clam every time they see the car, and having a simple close procedure is going to save you grey hairs! :)
Dan, amazing work. Do you have a link for the wing end plates? I may want to use them.
I picked mine up here: www.evasivemotorsports.com/store/product/voltex-carbon-end-plates/ A few other vendors offer them too…
Just awesome dan 😎
I hope your roads are better maintained in NH than here in central Maine. It would not last long on our roads.
@Dan Dulac Soldering the ring lugs to the cable like that is definitely not optimal, and can lead to fatigue and breakage.
Get yourself a hydraulic crimper. They’re like $40 and a much better result
HI Dan, sick set up! (im taking notes)....for the CAI how did u compute for air volume< im no the fence of doing sealed ones like the ones you have but i dont have enough info with regards to what is needed per hp/engine size. thanks again
Hi Kontra…the diameter of the OEM throttle bodies is 3.5-inches. My custom intake track will be the same 3.5” all the way to the NACA ducts; but the ducts are 3” opening. However, I believe the high pressure zone created by the NACA duct will actually improve airflow over OEM setup. Hope those helps!
@@DanDulac sweet thanks Dan for the info and i watch your journey it gives me a perspective on how much i need to learn and develop lol! your an inspiration bradah!
Just drill a drainage hole in the bottom of the silicone
Exactly my plan! 👍