Great content! I've really been enjoying your bbx videos. I can't wait to build this. My first build was a panda 1/10 buggy. I was so excited to run it for the first time. Its all about the build. Anyone else remember those?
Glad you're enjoying them! This has been one of the best Tamiya cars we've done in awhile. And yes, a buddy of mine had a Panda truck a LONG time ago. Actually worked quite well!
Instructive video. About the dogbones, have you tried playing with the MA13 spacers like they say in the manual p21 ? It moves the shaft back of just 0.5mm but might be enough ...
Yes, had one on each side to start, then moved both to the inside. It wasn't as often, but it did happen again so we had to look for another solution to help prevent it. Just think the up travel and the design of the trailing arm are a combined issue. In all cases, we were actually able to flex the trailing arm to get the drive bone back in - no tools required! :)
@@Competitionx I have yet to pop a dogbone ... though they are enclosed inside FAV/Monster Beetle driveshaft boots and my setup might be lighter (1080, 17.5t , 2200 3s).
So the first upgrade you suggest is something that’s in the kit that you didn’t use in assembly to start with? Is that because it doesn’t say to use it in the instructions?
That is correct. Usually we install this so the motor has contact with the aluminum motor plate, helping to dissipate heat. However, since we were driving in sand, the fine particles tend to get into EVERY nook and cranny on the car, especially where the spur gear is. So, it's VERY important to install this during the build.
My understanding is that common thinking re appropriate shock length on buggies such as these that you actually want chassis slap at full compression. The reason being that on a hard landing any load is transferred directly through the shock mounts risking them, rather than being dissipated through the entire chassis. 👍
Well, yes, sort of. Any hard slaps on the chassis affect everything ON the chassis - rattling the electronics, jarring screws loose, etc. It's best to let the suspension do the work (the mounts should be designed to absorb harsh impacts ... SHOULD! LOL). However, having the arms travel that far up seems excessive and, unfortunately, creates and issue with the BBX.
You could also put a spacer inside the shocks on the shock shaft. This will limit shock travel but would work. However, it would require taking the shock apart which would be more work. Thoughts?
The axis of my China brushless motor wasn't long enough, so I needed to turn around the pinion gear (the grub screw is on the inside now). But then the pinion was sticking out to far and I made myself a spacer from 2 mm aluminium, to put it between motor and mount. This also closed the holes. I found, that the cover cap of the pinion and spur gear is pretty lose on the top. They should have used at least one more screw.
We didn't notice any issues with our cover - it should actually overlap the metal motor mount. You might look to make sure there's no debris on the underside of the cover.
That's ours - we made it. You can get it here: www.shapeways.com/product/BWPFV7A2E/competitionx-ball-cup-building-tool . It's an amazing tool for sure!
The plastic is different - they probably thought it was enough to prevent flex. However, the rear arms have way to much up-travel which allows the drive bone to pop out way to easy.
So every mod that you suggested, do you have to buy separately or is it all included in the kit. For example do you have to buy a separate o rings or are they supplied? Also should we put o rings on the front shocks to pro or not?
There are a few extra parts included in the kit but I don't think the o-rings are one of them. There are a few solid spacers you could try that are included in the kit, I just thought o-rings would provide a softer 'impact' point.
Yes, most buggy wheels with a 12mm hex should fit this car. Just pay attention to the inner diameter of the wheel to make sure it clears the BBX suspension parts.
Great tips! I got my BB01, however I can't seem to get even a response (2 weeks now) from Horizon Hobby about the slipper I ordered and paid for... It was in stock and everything...Not impressed...
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I didn't know Jordan Petersen was into RC
😂😂😂
Great content! I've really been enjoying your bbx videos. I can't wait to build this. My first build was a panda 1/10 buggy. I was so excited to run it for the first time. Its all about the build. Anyone else remember those?
Glad you're enjoying them! This has been one of the best Tamiya cars we've done in awhile. And yes, a buddy of mine had a Panda truck a LONG time ago. Actually worked quite well!
Instructive video. About the dogbones, have you tried playing with the MA13 spacers like they say in the manual p21 ? It moves the shaft back of just 0.5mm but might be enough ...
Yes, had one on each side to start, then moved both to the inside. It wasn't as often, but it did happen again so we had to look for another solution to help prevent it. Just think the up travel and the design of the trailing arm are a combined issue. In all cases, we were actually able to flex the trailing arm to get the drive bone back in - no tools required! :)
@@Competitionx I have yet to pop a dogbone ... though they are enclosed inside FAV/Monster Beetle driveshaft boots and my setup might be lighter (1080, 17.5t , 2200 3s).
The jump in the intro is impressive. I thought she was not durable I think it's better than I thought!
Gave it a beating and it still works great, other than these two updates. More durable than we thought as well!
Great tip for the rear shocks. What size of-rings (3m) ?
Yes, standard size. :)
So the first upgrade you suggest is something that’s in the kit that you didn’t use in assembly to start with? Is that because it doesn’t say to use it in the instructions?
That is correct. Usually we install this so the motor has contact with the aluminum motor plate, helping to dissipate heat. However, since we were driving in sand, the fine particles tend to get into EVERY nook and cranny on the car, especially where the spur gear is. So, it's VERY important to install this during the build.
My understanding is that common thinking re appropriate shock length on buggies such as these that you actually want chassis slap at full compression. The reason being that on a hard landing any load is transferred directly through the shock mounts risking them, rather than being dissipated through the entire chassis. 👍
Well, yes, sort of. Any hard slaps on the chassis affect everything ON the chassis - rattling the electronics, jarring screws loose, etc. It's best to let the suspension do the work (the mounts should be designed to absorb harsh impacts ... SHOULD! LOL). However, having the arms travel that far up seems excessive and, unfortunately, creates and issue with the BBX.
fantastic buggy, thank you for sharing this 👍
You bet!
Thanks for the video. I have a BBX on the way, and I'll keep youtlr tips in mind!
Excellent. Easier to do during the build up stages.
You could also put a spacer inside the shocks on the shock shaft. This will limit shock travel but would work. However, it would require taking the shock apart which would be more work. Thoughts?
Yup, could, but that would limit the down travel, not the up travel - and the up travel is where the problem is.
I agree, just another idea. Thoughts? @@Competitionx
The axis of my China brushless motor wasn't long enough, so I needed to turn around the pinion gear (the grub screw is on the inside now). But then the pinion was sticking out to far and I made myself a spacer from 2 mm aluminium, to put it between motor and mount. This also closed the holes.
I found, that the cover cap of the pinion and spur gear is pretty lose on the top. They should have used at least one more screw.
We didn't notice any issues with our cover - it should actually overlap the metal motor mount. You might look to make sure there's no debris on the underside of the cover.
What size are those shock rods for the orings?
Not quite sure what you're asking, but the info for the shock parts can be found here: www.tamiyausa.com/shop/-road-buggies/rc-bbx/
Where did you get that tool that unsrews the shock mount? Is it in the kit?
That's ours - we made it. You can get it here: www.shapeways.com/product/BWPFV7A2E/competitionx-ball-cup-building-tool . It's an amazing tool for sure!
Great tips👍
Althought they should have learned for the popping out drive shafts at the ORV monsters
The plastic is different - they probably thought it was enough to prevent flex. However, the rear arms have way to much up-travel which allows the drive bone to pop out way to easy.
A cut cigarette Filter in the outdrives works wonders
Interesting. I'll have to check out that tip! Thanks!
I'd save the o-rings for shock rebuilds and use nitro fuel line for limiting the shocks, and you can cut them to the exact amount of limit you want
Yup, used to use the nitro fuel alot back in the day but, unfortunately, we don't have any of that sitting around anymore. So, o-rings it is :)
So every mod that you suggested, do you have to buy separately or is it all included in the kit. For example do you have to buy a separate o rings or are they supplied?
Also should we put o rings on the front shocks to pro or not?
There are a few extra parts included in the kit but I don't think the o-rings are one of them. There are a few solid spacers you could try that are included in the kit, I just thought o-rings would provide a softer 'impact' point.
When adding the motor plate/gasket, the instructions suggest adding a grease around the diameter.
That might help seal it a bit more, but also make it quite messy. Without should be sufficient. Hopefully LOL
You can just raise the gearbox.
Did that with 2.5mm thick spacers and 2mm longer bolts.
Fixes the problem with the driveshafts. 😉
Seems excessive lol. But hey, if it worked...
What other wheels fit this car? Buggy type? Like associated/Losi?
Yes, most buggy wheels with a 12mm hex should fit this car. Just pay attention to the inner diameter of the wheel to make sure it clears the BBX suspension parts.
Might install the cardboard mounting plate. Never really understood the purpose until seeing this video.
Cardboard mounting plate?
@@Competitionx For the motor. I usually toss them.
@@Triggered-RCAlways a good policy to just toss parts you don’t understand the purpose of.
Great tips! I got my BB01, however I can't seem to get even a response (2 weeks now) from Horizon Hobby about the slipper I ordered and paid for... It was in stock and everything...Not impressed...
Maybe they shipped all of them but didn't have enough to fill your order. Odd they haven't responded though...
Needs one more addition... the spare tire on the back :)
Ya, thought about that. Kind of like the look of it without a bit better though.
Excellent!
Thanks!
Why didnt you install the motor plate??
Because I'm dumb LOL. I did FINALLY install it after a bunch of sand got into the spur gear area.
I imaging the plate helps, sand contains magnetite, and it will stick to any magnets in the motor
Once we installed it, it almost completely sealed the gear area. Don't leave it out!
hop up metal trailing arms????
Nope, those are the stock plastic units.
Biggest issue I have with the BBX is I cant find one. lol
AMain has them in stock at the moment: bit.ly/47qsmKO
"Almost 100% covered now... - NOT" :D
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