Thanks for the video. I'm not qualified, but am a high level DIY with my own hoist in my shed. I took the 30" you suggested as a challenge. At 3 minutes, I had the car lifted on the hoist and old belt off - that's when the trouble started. New belt had a wrong memory shape because of the way it was packaged was the first issue. It kept falling off the pulleys. Then I found it to be not going around all pulleys due to Space Age tech dictating it's length. I was alone and had to find stuff, like a ratchet STRAP to hold the long ring spanner tensioner back and then find I had no 21 mm (MIA) for the crank bolt, but did find an Imperial size socket fit the crank bolt and was able to walk the belt across the crank pulley in reverse, then make the other pulley to the front right after the partial derail. After all that - 31 mins.
awesome video. super simple job decided to remove tire for more space and had to use a close ended wrench not enough space for rachet. Also good tip make sure jack up car pretty high if using top half of jack handle for leverage like I did or it will hit concrete before you get full release of tortion spindle for easy reinstiation of belt. I also found it helpful to draw a quick sketch of pulleys and belt on a cardboard box instead of pics . $20 bucks for belt took about 45min. with my teenage son. Thanks.
I own a 2009 Mazda 2, and a 2011 Mazda 3 (1.6 litre diesel),and I love the semplicity of these two engines,in particular the Mazda 2's one. It's really easy to service both cars. By the way,thanks a lot for your videos, they're very helpful! Cheers from Italy!
+NeoEletto24 I love how easy the 2 is to work on. It's by far the easiest car to service that I've owned. I'm glad that you enjoy the channel. Thanks for watching!
An extra-long-handle 14mm offset box end wrench makes the tensioner even easier to do, because it slips right past that hardline with more clearance than a ratchet. The owners manual just says "inspect" every other oil change. I did mine at 60k because it looked exactly like yours.
Thanks HiroshimaSpirit. I replaced the belt today on my 2009 (120km) Mazda 2, your video was very useful. The job went smoothly but I had to check the belt path a few times until I got it right, you are right it's not intuitive. I measured the new belt a few times against the original as it seemed too long, finally got it right. Man, that tensioner is pretty tight. I replaced the engine mount on that side of the engine at the same time so I had a little bit more room. Thanks for the info, great channel.
@@JaxRwld The engine was noisy and running very rough at idle. When idling the car with the bonnet open I noticed movement of the engine and suspected the rubber of the engine mount may have failed, when removed it was sloppy and had obviously reached end of life, they don't last forever.
I ended up changing mine from the top. I bought one of those belt tension tools for changing belts from Amazon by Gear Wrench. It worked almost perfect. I had a little trouble getting enough room to pull the pully as the wrench was starting to hit engine parts but i got it with my own hands as I held the wrench with one and used the other hand to place the belt. I tried it from the bottom but my socket wrench wouldn't fit between the nut and car. Don't forget to take pictures of the belt on the car before you remove it so you know how it goes on.
Nice video, thanks! There is an interval for accesory belt replace, you can find it in back of your car manual. If you don't have one, i can look at mine and inform you. By the way we really want to see how did you replace the part, etc. Maybe in the next videos you could try to find a tripod or something to put the camera on. Your videos are helping me to keep my mazda2 maintained. thank you!
+elektronstorm I'm sure there is a service interval, but visual inspection sometimes trumps going "by the book". As far as actually installing the part, a tripod wouldn't have helped in this case. The space is too tight and either I or other things in the engine bay would have gotten in the way of the shot. An explanation is enough when the rest is simple common sense. If I don't include a visual, it's generally not THAT necessary.
Nice one sunshine. This helped me change my wife's Mazda 2, sorry, "Maise" belt. Top tip though, instead of a ratchet spanner, try a 14mm offset ring spanner next time on the auto belt tensioner.... cost £10, no grazed knuckles o9r bent brake pipe, priceless!
@@sdm789 Hi Steve, spot on mate yes, that is what you need. You do have to get under the car, I jacked her up on two stands for security and removed the aux belt guard. The rest, as they say, was child-splay!
@@sdm789 Hi Steve, no worries, I'm a rookie too! I jacked up both sides on stands, just because I could. But I did feel safer doing it that way. Didn't want to leave just one side on a hydraulic jack that may 'let go' at any time. I was thinking the same as you cost wise. For a 2008 model year car I couldn't justify the £200 + dealer charge. You are correct unsaying the length of the ring spanner does not provide enough leverage, I just slid a length of plastic plumbing pipe I had laying around the garage over the ring spanner to increase the leverage length. Worked a treat. There are several ways to skin that cat! Now the Mrs is talking about a "squeak" when she drives around corners... err, OK, I'm thinking wheel bearings?
@@HiroshimaSpirit Agree 100% Mr Spirit! I'm trying to diagnose the problem from afar based on my senior management's observations... ! When I was in the car with her, the constant rumbling boiled my proverbial and in my humble judgement thought - err wheel bearings.
@DaedalusZero Thanks so much for posting this!!! I had been looking for information on changing the belts on my 2011 Mazda 2 and have had no luck. I love that you specified about the timing chain, good to know, one less maintenance item I have to worry about! Also this looks easy so I'm now excited at the prospect of not having to find a mechanic simply because I can't find maintenance procedures for this car lol! If you ever do a radiator flush and hose change I'd love to see that procedure done.
+David Neff No problem! I make/share these videos because I hate looking through bogus forum posts and digging for instructions to stuff, only to come up empty on information. It's easier to just watch a video. Haha At the rate my girlfriend drives, our green 2 will be due for a coolant flush (120k miles) before too long and there will certainly be a video for that. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tutorial! This video is apparently also applicable to the 1.3L that’s available in europe and asia! Same engine just a different bottom end.
Thanks man I changed the belt myself after watching your video. One thing I did different is I didn't went under the car instead used the 14mm spanner from the top. Also used 15mm spanner with 14 mm to get the leverage.
i have been trying to get mine changed for god know how many hours, not any easy job for 1 person. somehow managed to get it off yesterday but getting the new one on is another pain in the butt, has asked a friend to come help. may be with an extra set of hand will be able to do it. there is also a Pittsburg serpentine belt took kit which goes for $20 at Harbor Freight and that seems like could make your life much easier than having to pay $190 for the belt change to a mechanic.
Today, seeing this video I easily changed the belt, but removing it I noticed that the tensioner pulley is completely rubbish because it's wobbling when doing by hand. Also the spring inside the tensioner makes a noise when turning clockwise to release the belt. The idler pulley is also wobbling slightly and the bearings are wearing out. It has only 55k miles 89.000 km, really sad it's already time to replace all those parts, but at least I noticed!
Thanks mate l don’t work on rice burns much only old school clunky v8 s and l had to change the belt on my sons girl who owns a 2 your help was much appreciated. Mark
Thank you so much. I have trouble finding out if it is my belt's change time or not. I Inspected the belt of my Mazda 2. the interior part is OK but the exterior part of the belt has some kind of an abrasion mark with a length of about 4 centimeters (the abrasion mark is directed longitudinal). SHOULD I CHANGE IT??
@@HiroshimaSpirit No Problem at all! I Changed it! But actually now I'm having another issue. There's an altering noise like when a moving belt is touching something. but it's not always heard. I can just hear it in the low revs. Don't know where to look for it. :(
Firstly just wanted to say thanks for all your videos! They've been really helpful and have given me new ideas as what to modify with my car. Have you ever changed the manual transaxle oil? I believe Mazda claims it's a lifetime fluid but various 2 forums say it should be changed around 60k to get back that factory smooth shift feel.
+C Albert I have not. The silver 2 only has 25k miles and the green 2 is automatic. However, I'll probably swap to a performance gear oil eventually; Likely before the 60k mark.
Hiya, just noticed your question, no fluid is a life time solution. 1st time Mazda changed it for me at my request at 40K miles then at 111K miles I changed it myself. for a 2010 model you need 75w80 GL4 (not GL3 or GL5) about 3.04 litres (as per the hand book), mine took 4 litres. I used Mannol GL4 Synthetic, I paid £21 for it via Amazon UK. as to the old oil luckily no metal shavings came out only very fine metal stuff. I noticed cold start into 1st and reverse is butter smooth. I highly recommend changing it every 30K.
Hi, just purchased a used Mazda 2 and noticed a clicking sound coming from the accessory belt…the clicking is small little sparks of electricity that isn’t exactly in one spot, seems like it moves with the belt and pulleys. Any suggestions?
My 2011 (111K, auto) sounds a bit loud for about a minute when I first start it up in the morning. I can't find anything online about it. The noise does go away after I start to drive. Do you have any suggestions on what to check?
Hi. The problem about your video is you never showed how to take off the belt cover. Do you access the bolts from the top looking down or do you remove the right wheel and the bolts are there?
In the clips where I explain how to remove the cover, I specify that the car is in the air on jack stands and that the cover is fastened to the bottom of the car. The clips are plainly and clearly shot from underneath the car, looking upward. I didn’t feel the need to show me ratcheting a few bolts out because that’s common sense. If removing the belt guard had been an option from above, it would have been mentioned in the video.
Hello, does the bolt for the tensioner have to be torqued to a certain spec? Im new to cars and know that some bolts do and some dont... I dont know which this is :)
there's a loud ticking sound when I turn on my AC and the car is idle, when i drive or turn off the AC, the ticking sound just gone, my friend said its the belt issue, before i'm getting a new belt to replace, any thought?? thanks alot!!
Nice video mate, good to known, by the way the water pump on this car where is located and after how many miles we need to change it? Maybe you put a video about this.thanks man
Thanks! I’ve never had to change one on a 2 and I don’t know the service interval. Perhaps check the owner’s manual. If I ever do replace the water pump myself I’ll certainly make a video about it. 👍🏻
+Davood Yazdani Thanks! Neither of my cars need a thermostat, so that's gonna be a no. I don't replace things for the sake of making videos. I make videos when something needs to be replaced or I have a new modification to install. Maybe one day, right?
I am a bit confused, you say that this engine has a timing chain so it doesn't need to be serviced, but then you change the timing belt. So which is it?
This is the accessory belt (see title) that runs the water pump and air conditioning. The timing chain is underneath the timing cover and connects the camshafts to the crankshaft. Even if this engine had a belt instead of a chain, there would still be two separate belts.
@@HiroshimaSpirit I understand now, thanks for the quick reply. Another question, does a 08 Mazda 2 Petrol engine still need to have the fuel filter replaced?
My mazda Axela 2006 has same engine but no splash guard, why? and how to replace the tensioner pulley. if you have a video for that please share. Thankyou for this video tutorial. IF some one can share the link where i can order this belt. thanks
Probably because some roads and driving conditions in Russia call for extra protection. Here in the US, the Mazda2 doesn’t have that sort of thing from the factory because it doesn’t need to.
I thought you knew. Because I need to replace my dipstick its broke(the handle broke). And I dont have idea what is the length of it. But anyways, thank you. And youre videos are very helpful. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the video. I'm not qualified, but am a high level DIY with my own hoist in my shed. I took the 30" you suggested as a challenge. At 3 minutes, I had the car lifted on the hoist and old belt off - that's when the trouble started. New belt had a wrong memory shape because of the way it was packaged was the first issue. It kept falling off the pulleys. Then I found it to be not going around all pulleys due to Space Age tech dictating it's length. I was alone and had to find stuff, like a ratchet STRAP to hold the long ring spanner tensioner back and then find I had no 21 mm (MIA) for the crank bolt, but did find an Imperial size socket fit the crank bolt and was able to walk the belt across the crank pulley in reverse, then make the other pulley to the front right after the partial derail. After all that - 31 mins.
awesome video. super simple job decided to remove tire for more space and had to use a close ended wrench not enough space for rachet. Also good tip make sure jack up car pretty high if using top half of jack handle for leverage like I did or it will hit concrete before you get full release of tortion spindle for easy reinstiation of belt. I also found it helpful to draw a quick sketch of pulleys and belt on a cardboard box instead of pics . $20 bucks for belt took about 45min. with my teenage son. Thanks.
THANKS! Excellent commentary and clear detailed explanations, saving a lot of money and time doing myself with this, thanks again.
I own a 2009 Mazda 2, and a 2011 Mazda 3 (1.6 litre diesel),and I love the semplicity of these two engines,in particular the Mazda 2's one.
It's really easy to service both cars.
By the way,thanks a lot for your videos, they're very helpful!
Cheers from Italy!
+NeoEletto24 I love how easy the 2 is to work on. It's by far the easiest car to service that I've owned. I'm glad that you enjoy the channel. Thanks for watching!
Just changed mine on my Mazda 2 today thanks to you video. Thanks a lot, it helped me a lot 👍
An extra-long-handle 14mm offset box end wrench makes the tensioner even easier to do, because it slips right past that hardline with more clearance than a ratchet.
The owners manual just says "inspect" every other oil change. I did mine at 60k because it looked exactly like yours.
Good info! 👍🏻
How long are we talking here? Standard length of like 8 or so inches? Would the length or offset be more important?
Thanks HiroshimaSpirit. I replaced the belt today on my 2009 (120km) Mazda 2, your video was very useful. The job went smoothly but I had to check the belt path a few times until I got it right, you are right it's not intuitive. I measured the new belt a few times against the original as it seemed too long, finally got it right. Man, that tensioner is pretty tight. I replaced the engine mount on that side of the engine at the same time so I had a little bit more room. Thanks for the info, great channel.
Thanks! Glad to help! ✌🏻
Why did you have to replace your engine mount?
@@JaxRwld The engine was noisy and running very rough at idle. When idling the car with the bonnet open I noticed movement of the engine and suspected the rubber of the engine mount may have failed, when removed it was sloppy and had obviously reached end of life, they don't last forever.
Fantastic video. Thanks!! We had a green Mazda 2 in Thailand and liked it so much we bought a silver one here in the USA.
I ended up changing mine from the top. I bought one of those belt tension tools for changing belts from Amazon by Gear Wrench. It worked almost perfect. I had a little trouble getting enough room to pull the pully as the wrench was starting to hit engine parts but i got it with my own hands as I held the wrench with one and used the other hand to place the belt. I tried it from the bottom but my socket wrench wouldn't fit between the nut and car. Don't forget to take pictures of the belt on the car before you remove it so you know how it goes on.
Nice video, thanks!
There is an interval for accesory belt replace, you can find it in back of your car manual. If you don't have one, i can look at mine and inform you.
By the way we really want to see how did you replace the part, etc. Maybe in the next videos you could try to find a tripod or something to put the camera on. Your videos are helping me to keep my mazda2 maintained. thank you!
+elektronstorm I'm sure there is a service interval, but visual inspection sometimes trumps going "by the book". As far as actually installing the part, a tripod wouldn't have helped in this case. The space is too tight and either I or other things in the engine bay would have gotten in the way of the shot. An explanation is enough when the rest is simple common sense. If I don't include a visual, it's generally not THAT necessary.
Nice one sunshine. This helped me change my wife's Mazda 2, sorry, "Maise" belt. Top tip though, instead of a ratchet spanner, try a 14mm offset ring spanner next time on the auto belt tensioner.... cost £10, no grazed knuckles o9r bent brake pipe, priceless!
@@sdm789 Hi Steve, spot on mate yes, that is what you need. You do have to get under the car, I jacked her up on two stands for security and removed the aux belt guard. The rest, as they say, was child-splay!
@@sdm789 Yes, that's the one. You have to jack the front end up to remove the belt guard, easier to access from underneath.
@@sdm789 Hi Steve, no worries, I'm a rookie too! I jacked up both sides on stands, just because I could. But I did feel safer doing it that way. Didn't want to leave just one side on a hydraulic jack that may 'let go' at any time.
I was thinking the same as you cost wise. For a 2008 model year car I couldn't justify the £200 + dealer charge.
You are correct unsaying the length of the ring spanner does not provide enough leverage, I just slid a length of plastic plumbing pipe I had laying around the garage over the ring spanner to increase the leverage length. Worked a treat.
There are several ways to skin that cat!
Now the Mrs is talking about a "squeak" when she drives around corners... err, OK, I'm thinking wheel bearings?
Wheel bearings are more of a humming/grinding noise that’s constant, not just going around corners.
@@HiroshimaSpirit Agree 100% Mr Spirit! I'm trying to diagnose the problem from afar based on my senior management's observations... !
When I was in the car with her, the constant rumbling boiled my proverbial and in my humble judgement thought - err wheel bearings.
Thanks for this. Was about to spend $150 to have it done.
@DaedalusZero Thanks so much for posting this!!!
I had been looking for information on changing the belts on my 2011 Mazda 2 and have had no luck.
I love that you specified about the timing chain, good to know, one less maintenance item I have to worry about! Also this looks easy so I'm now excited at the prospect of not having to find a mechanic simply because I can't find maintenance procedures for this car lol!
If you ever do a radiator flush and hose change I'd love to see that procedure done.
+David Neff No problem! I make/share these videos because I hate looking through bogus forum posts and digging for instructions to stuff, only to come up empty on information. It's easier to just watch a video. Haha
At the rate my girlfriend drives, our green 2 will be due for a coolant flush (120k miles) before too long and there will certainly be a video for that. Thanks for watching!
Informative, short and simple. Thank you!
Thank you for watching! No worries! ✌🏻
Very clear instructions, very helpful as always. Thanks.....
Thanks for the tutorial! This video is apparently also applicable to the 1.3L that’s available in europe and asia! Same engine just a different bottom end.
External dimensions are the same between displacements, yes.
I'd recommend a shallow 14mm socket that grips the flats and a mallet as the adjuster can be siezed
Thanks man
I changed the belt myself after watching your video.
One thing I did different is I didn't went under the car instead used the 14mm spanner from the top.
Also used 15mm spanner with 14 mm to get the leverage.
Great little video and very well explained. Thanks.
thank you sooo much for this video now il give it a try to my mazda on replacing my belt thanks
i have been trying to get mine changed for god know how many hours, not any easy job for 1 person. somehow managed to get it off yesterday but getting the new one on is another pain in the butt, has asked a friend to come help. may be with an extra set of hand will be able to do it. there is also a Pittsburg serpentine belt took kit which goes for $20 at Harbor Freight and that seems like could make your life much easier than having to pay $190 for the belt change to a mechanic.
Yes short and simple. Thanks bro
Today, seeing this video I easily changed the belt, but removing it I noticed that the tensioner pulley is completely rubbish because it's wobbling when doing by hand. Also the spring inside the tensioner makes a noise when turning clockwise to release the belt. The idler pulley is also wobbling slightly and the bearings are wearing out. It has only 55k miles 89.000 km, really sad it's already time to replace all those parts, but at least I noticed!
Thanks mate l don’t work on rice burns much only old school clunky v8 s and l had to change the belt on my sons girl who owns a 2 your help was much appreciated. Mark
Thanks man you're the best!!
Thank you so much. I have trouble finding out if it is my belt's change time or not.
I Inspected the belt of my Mazda 2. the interior part is OK but the exterior part of the belt has some kind of an abrasion mark with a length of about 4 centimeters (the abrasion mark is directed longitudinal).
SHOULD I CHANGE IT??
I don’t know, sorry.
@@HiroshimaSpirit No Problem at all! I Changed it!
But actually now I'm having another issue. There's an altering noise like when a moving belt is touching something. but it's not always heard. I can just hear it in the low revs. Don't know where to look for it. :(
Gracias amigo// thanks !!
Glad to help! ✌🏻
Firstly just wanted to say thanks for all your videos! They've been really helpful and have given me new ideas as what to modify with my car. Have you ever changed the manual transaxle oil? I believe Mazda claims it's a lifetime fluid but various 2 forums say it should be changed around 60k to get back that factory smooth shift feel.
+C Albert I have not. The silver 2 only has 25k miles and the green 2 is automatic. However, I'll probably swap to a performance gear oil eventually; Likely before the 60k mark.
Hiya, just noticed your question, no fluid is a life time solution. 1st time Mazda changed it for me at my request at 40K miles then at 111K miles I changed it myself. for a 2010 model you need 75w80 GL4 (not GL3 or GL5) about 3.04 litres (as per the hand book), mine took 4 litres.
I used Mannol GL4 Synthetic, I paid £21 for it via Amazon UK.
as to the old oil luckily no metal shavings came out only very fine metal stuff. I noticed cold start into 1st and reverse is butter smooth. I highly recommend changing it every 30K.
Yeah this video really helped. I installed the belt perfectly. Thanks buddy!
European service schedule says replace every 60 k miles or 100 000 km. I've changed mine twice, don't feel any difference.
good to see someone who knows what their doing
Debatable, but thanks! Haha
Awesome video helped me alot thanks from Maltese islands
Glad to help! Thanks for watching! ✌🏻
This was great. Thanks a ton!
Hello. at how many miles do you change the belt? I have 70,000 km and 11 years with the original belt. thank you
Whenever it looks bad, change it.
@@HiroshimaSpirit Have you ever changed the tensioner bearings and the loc?
I have not
How is called the extension tool that you used? Handy handle? I can't loose that
It’s the handle from my floor jack.
@@HiroshimaSpirit thank you. I did ot with 2 tools, quite hard. Thank you
Hi, just purchased a used Mazda 2 and noticed a clicking sound coming from the accessory belt…the clicking is small little sparks of electricity that isn’t exactly in one spot, seems like it moves with the belt and pulleys. Any suggestions?
Consult a mechanic
Attempting this on my moms 2 today. Wish me luck. Lol I don’t have a jack and jack stands but I do have ramps, would I be able to get by with those?
Maybe, but taking the belt guard off might be a pain.
Great stuff mate
Hi! can you make video on how you will replace the idler pulley of Mazda 2? Coz i will replace my idler pulley bearing. thanks
Neither of my cars need that part replaced, so no. I don’t replace things for no reason just to make videos. Sorry.
Sorry. I just want to know if counter clock wise or clock wise to loose the nut of idler pully. Because i dont want to break the thread. Thanks
Wish I could help you. Hope you get it fixed!
My 2011 (111K, auto) sounds a bit loud for about a minute when I first start it up in the morning. I can't find anything online about it. The noise does go away after I start to drive. Do you have any suggestions on what to check?
Normal. When you start a car cold, it automatically idles higher than normal for a minute or two to build heat.
@@HiroshimaSpirit Awesome, thanks. Normal even if the sound goes away when I switch to drive or reverse?
Yes 👍🏻
I’m Australia it says the gates belt that fits my 2 is 1840 long but you used a 1845? My Mazda is 2008.
I bought whatever the online parts store offered for a Gates belt. I never looked at any of the details.
Any issues with it being a bit longer or shorter Josh?
There’s an automatic tensioner for a reason. It should take up any slack, especially a few mm.
Hi. The problem about your video is you never showed how to take off the belt cover. Do you access the bolts from the top looking down or do you remove the right wheel and the bolts are there?
In the clips where I explain how to remove the cover, I specify that the car is in the air on jack stands and that the cover is fastened to the bottom of the car. The clips are plainly and clearly shot from underneath the car, looking upward. I didn’t feel the need to show me ratcheting a few bolts out because that’s common sense. If removing the belt guard had been an option from above, it would have been mentioned in the video.
@@HiroshimaSpirit I re watched it and heard you say from the bottom this time. Thank you and God Bless.
What exactly is the belt size as in 6PKxxxx?
How many miles did the car have on it when you replaced it?
+J P 85k
omg, my service man just told me to replace, it's 145000km on the clock.....
That’s like 90k miles. Sounds about right. 👍🏻
Hello, does the bolt for the tensioner have to be torqued to a certain spec? Im new to cars and know that some bolts do and some dont... I dont know which this is :)
Good question. I never torque stuff like that and it never was a problem, so. 🤷🏼♂️
I wannat know wat size for belt Mazda 2 2014 1.6 . thnks
An online parts database should tell you everything you need to know.
there's a loud ticking sound when I turn on my AC and the car is idle, when i drive or turn off the AC, the ticking sound just gone, my friend said its the belt issue, before i'm getting a new belt to replace, any thought?? thanks alot!!
Mine has made noise when the A/C compressor is working since new. Seems normal from my perspective.
@@HiroshimaSpirit thanks mate, I just got a 2007 1.5 AT DE, your channel is such a good reference and inspiration for me, keep going 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video mate, good to known, by the way the water pump on this car where is located and after how many miles we need to change it? Maybe you put a video about this.thanks man
Thanks! I’ve never had to change one on a 2 and I don’t know the service interval. Perhaps check the owner’s manual. If I ever do replace the water pump myself I’ll certainly make a video about it. 👍🏻
Thank you sir. Very helpful
How you change alternator??
when are you going to replace this?
at how many kilometers do you have to replace?
I replaced it when it looked worn. Didn’t check what the service interval is or what the mileage was at the time.
not only about milage about time too mine was 8 years old only 28k miles on engine but belt was cracking exactly as shown in video.
Is it safe to spray Belt Dressing on accessory belt?
A belt’s a belt. 🤷🏼♂️ I’ve never used belt dressing.
@@HiroshimaSpirit Well, upon doing research it's not recommended. thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video !!! very helpful
+Aneudy Almodovar No problem! Thanks for watching!
Did you use Jack Stands at all four corners, or just at the front end?
Probably just the front end. Don’t remember, this video is from years ago.
Firstly, as ever your videos are amazing. Any chance you do engine thermostat replacement for the next video?
+Davood Yazdani Thanks! Neither of my cars need a thermostat, so that's gonna be a no. I don't replace things for the sake of making videos. I make videos when something needs to be replaced or I have a new modification to install. Maybe one day, right?
I am a bit confused, you say that this engine has a timing chain so it doesn't need to be serviced, but then you change the timing belt. So which is it?
This is the accessory belt (see title) that runs the water pump and air conditioning. The timing chain is underneath the timing cover and connects the camshafts to the crankshaft. Even if this engine had a belt instead of a chain, there would still be two separate belts.
@@HiroshimaSpirit I understand now, thanks for the quick reply. Another question, does a 08 Mazda 2 Petrol engine still need to have the fuel filter replaced?
Only if there’s an issue with fuel flow or quality. It’s in-tank, so it’s extra fuss to replace.
Only if there’s an issue with fuel flow or quality. It’s in-tank, so it’s extra fuss to replace.
Only if there’s an issue with fuel flow or quality. It’s in-tank, so it’s extra fuss to replace.
Hi, what series and displacement is this engine
ZY-VE, 1.5L
The belt on my car tore and fell off, is that normal?? The car can not start
No, definitely not normal. Yours was probably well beyond needing replacement.
My mazda Axela 2006 has same engine but no splash guard, why? and how to replace the tensioner pulley. if you have a video for that please share. Thankyou for this video tutorial. IF some one can share the link where i can order this belt. thanks
can u tell me ,what a serial number of vbelt for
mazda 2 non skyactive like yours ?
I don’t know. I bought mine from an online store that gave me several options that fit and I picked the one I wanted.
@@HiroshimaSpirit okay , gracias ,, trimakasih banyak from indonesia
why you do not have metal engine protection ?
Do you mean like a skid plate? There isn’t one. That’s how the car comes from the factory.
autotank.ru/production/209-mazda2.html
in Russia all car has it
Probably because some roads and driving conditions in Russia call for extra protection. Here in the US, the Mazda2 doesn’t have that sort of thing from the factory because it doesn’t need to.
Don't you know the number of a fan belt of mazda verisa?
I'm looking for it please help me if you know the number
I don’t, sorry.
@@HiroshimaSpirit k
which coolant do you use for your radiator? mine says fl22 on the cap but can't find one in my country
FL22 is the correct coolant for the 2, yes.
John Tyxeros I had a green/bluish one, but I replaced it with the pink colored..there was written for Mazda cars
Hello, what was a mileage on that belt? Thanks.
Enough to need changing. This video is multiple years old. I don’t remember.
Do you know the length of the dipstick(engine oil) for mazda 2? Can you please tell me... thank you.
I don’t, sorry. Why do you need to know the dipstick length?
I thought you knew. Because I need to replace my dipstick its broke(the handle broke). And I dont have idea what is the length of it. But anyways, thank you. And youre videos are very helpful. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just buy one that’s specific to the Mazda2. It shouldn’t be difficult to find online. 👍🏻
Thanks for this, god bless you. ;-)
Ratchet stuck to body of car and engine use a socket and bolt to turn stabilise to take off tension..my car is early 2007 mazda 2.
Thanks mate.
nice info
Great! Thanks
Thanks make it easy for me
Thanks man
Thanks for watching! ✌🏻
Thanks, mazda charges $288!
$US, $CAN, $AUS??
Привет. Лучше снимать подряд, что и как снял для доступа к прижимному ролику, потом как старый снимал и новый одевал.
such belts, wow
+Cloverof4 Mazda2 Solid: The Twin Snakes
Just glad it didn't have any of that techno internet music....
The same lame music that everyone uses? Yeah, me too! Haha
Pleae givw me how open alternator mazds 2
first!!!!!
+that guy The first is real.