LOL, been watching a ton of spraybrush videos recently as I slowly collected the tools I thought would work for me. Got into painting not for art but repainting fishing plugs. 2 days ago was first time anyone ever commented about leaving air on to help with tip dry. This video of yours I just watched further explained the technique. Thanks, wish I had seen this a month ago. This old dog has a lot to learn.
lol. Your question is what initially sparked this video. Then I realized what you were actually asking and unfortunately, I still don't have a good answer. I was surprised by the response you shared from Iwata as well...
Completely agree that airbrushing is not cheap. I started using just my garage compressor as I airbrush in the garage anyway. Yes it's loud and a pain to have in the same room. I got a silent oil free compressor later. Not an expensive Iwata, it's still a 'garage' compressor but at about 49 dB instead of 94... Huuge difference and it can pump out more than enough air for any airbrush, a little over 100 lpm if I remember correctly. It's not as silent as a refrigerator compressor but it's about 30% of the cost for a dedicated expensive airbrush compressor, like the ones from Iwata. I did get an Iwata HP-CP airbrush though, so I couldn't blame the equipment when I failed.. ;)
Glad to know you have a good setup that works well for you. For the record, I don't recommend any of those small airbrush dedicated compressors, whether it's an Iwata or any other brand. You're better off with a compressor that is capable of running your airbrush and then some.
@@wickedartstudio Completely agree! I didn't think you did if it came out that way. I was thinking about the larger 'studio' compressors, that are ridiculuosly expensive. I meant it as a beginner tip, that there are compressors on the market that are fairly quiet but not marketed as airbrush equipment, which won't cost you an arm and a leg. Looking forward to the next episode of you fixing existing custom paintjob! Really like your content!
Happy New Trevor...yes the on off was hard at first 😳 but just practice with dots lines etc. For a bit helps Got some supper clean to TRY... As always Thanks
Hey Trevor; Excellent job as usual. Questions for you; 1. Have you tried RIT dyes (as in fabric dyes/tie dyes) in the airbrush? 2. Have you sprayed Minwax top coats (water based or lacquer based) in your airbrush? Any thoughts as Minwax being a top coat on helmets or mailboxes? 3. What got you into airbrushing and how long did you ‘practice’ before you made $$$$$? 4. Do you leave a signature or logo on consigned work? Thanks; Tony
Hey Tony! Regarding your first and second questions, I've never tried either of those products through an airbrush. As far as using Minwax on a mailbox goes, I'd try to steer you away from that. I'm not sure how that product would hold up to the elements and UV rays over a long period of time. I've used their polyurethane before on a wood bar top. It's a great product for items kept indoors, but I just don't know about outside. I'd much rather use a 2k clear that's been proven to withstand the elements for years. I've been an artist since I was little. I don't know where it came from (nobody else in my family has it), but I've always had a natural talent when it comes to art. I grew up drawing stuff all the time. My high school art teacher introduced me to the airbrush for the first time (I'm pretty sure he bought the brush, compressor and some ink out of his own pocket too which was pretty cool) and it immediately became my tool of choice. I never really looked back. I still use pencils and other mediums occasionally, but the vast majority of what I do is with an airbrush. I didn't really start making money until quite a few years later. I was road racing motorcycles at the time and painted my own helmets. Other racers started asking about the artwork on my helmets. Next thing I knew, I was painting helmets, and sometimes bikes, for all of them too. That was the point when I realized I could actually make decent money with an airbrush. I absolutely sign everything I do and recommend every artist do the same. Whether I use a simple signature or paint my logo somewhere varies. I will always check with the client before I paint my logo (or a partial form of it) on their vehicle. Some are totally against that even if the logo will be small and blend in with the other artwork. I'm a custom car enthusiast too. I get where they're coming from. The signature is not negotiable. I will sign my work. Either way, I almost always make it a point to make the signature or the logo very inconspicuous. Most people never realize it's there unless I point it out to them.
@@wickedartstudio Hey Trevor! Thanks again for answering my questions. And it was interesting to learn about your step into airbrushing. It sounds like you had a great teacher. Anyhow, I used the Minwax cuz I had some that I had to use. I brushed it onto a helmet and a mailbox. They have been outside for about 2 weeks and I see no fading or other adverse effects, but it’s winter time..... I sprayed some RIT dye on an old t shirt and some wood. It makes a nice effect on wood, so so results on the t shirt. Maybe some tweaking with the amount and reducer/water will get better results. 30 psi and a .5mm needle. I sprayed the fenders on 1 of my older dirt bikes doing flames and brushed on some Minwax. I am too cheap to buy new fenders and nobody knows what brand of bike it is now. I am not expecting it to last too long after crashing into tree branches and bouncing off the ground. I airbrushed my dirt bike boots and chest protector also. And I don’t expect the airbrushed stuff to last too long either. The SuperClean works great!!!!! Thanks for that hint!!!! Looking forward to the existing artwork redo!!!! Thanks; Tony
@@Exitwoundstudio Hey Tony! Experimentation isn't always a bad thing. Some of the coolest effects in the custom paint industry were discovered by accident because an artist was trying something unconventional. Who knows... you might just be the one that invents the next popular fad in the industry.
Hi Trev I love the cartoon, Would look great on a T shirt but he needs an airline and an airbrush. Keeping the air on is not unlike triggering off at the end of a stroke when spraying a car with a large gun. Even though I am a paint sprayer I still let go of everything at the end of a airbrush stroke sometimes. I think I Panic a bit. Anyway mate just a couple of questions. If someone new to your channel comments on an early tutorial, do you get a notification? Also do you have a plan for upcoming tutorials or do you you go by the comments of what people want? It would be nice to know what you are planning to upload as a series of lessons for us. This was meant to be a short message,Sorry. Guy
I agree. He should've had an airline and a brush, but I wasn't looking to spend any more time on it. The cartoon was done specifically for the video and a little practice time of my own in the process. I do the same with my spray guns. It's really not necessary to keep the air on with a spray gun (and it would likely be more difficult because activating the air flow on a spray gun is the same motion as activating the paint flow). I can definitely see how it would be a hard habit to break when one is used to working more with a full size gun though. I do get a notification via email for all comments on my videos... or I'm supposed to get an email notification anyway. For some reason I don't get a notification for random comments on occasion. On the flip side of that, occasionally I will get the email notification, but the actual comment never appears under the video. There's a reply button embedded in the email. When I click on the reply button it takes me to the video the comment originated from; however, the comment isn't there. This has happened with a couple of your comments in the past. It's not a perfect system. As far as your last question goes... it's a little of both. I have a long list of plans and ideas for videos I want to produce (some of these will be specific to the membership option at some point), but sometimes there are questions/comments that are easier to answer/explain in video form. Creating a video to answer some of those questions also allows more people to benefit from the answer as opposed to answering only in the comments. At the end of the day it comes down to time management on my end. Airbrush intensive instructional videos require a lot more time to create. When I'm busy with commissioned work, I don't have as much time to devote to producing these videos. I'm working on getting better organized as the channel continues to grow, but it's a slow process for me.
I know it is very time consuming to sort everything. It Probably takes longer to edit than to film.I just thought if we knew what you were planning we could all maybe ask for what we would like to see from your list of ideas. To be honest I am still happy with the basics. Perhaps chuck out a request for tuition and see how it lands with your plan. If all else fails ##ck em and carry on regardless. Not really I know you want to produce what people want. Just a thought mate. Guy
@@guyverney3606 Yes, it takes far longer to sit down and edit than it does to actually film everything. Editing has gotten a little faster over time because I've more or less developed a process that I know works after creating a lot of videos, but it still takes a considerable amount of time. In reality, everything still comes down to the basics even with more advanced techniques. Developing that basic foundation is imperative. We build everything else on top of that foundation. I'm still working on the membership option behind the scenes. That's not something I want to rush, but it will likely happen at some point this year. If it works that will be great. If it doesn't... well, I can say I tried I guess...
Need help hope you can help me I am wanting to spray small model parts car kit plastic then put then together what is the best way to get the paint to stay on the parts using createx just need to now what to put on before or after to keep the paint on like a primer and clear is what I'm looking for but only want to use the airbrush cant find the info anywhere thank you
Check out plazmo and night shift....they do military models mostly but do walk you through all the steps...and the related vids from others should be helpful
I don't have any experience with model cars, but I think I can point you in the right direction. I would start by cleaning the parts very good with some warm water and dish soap (Dawn works well). This step is important to remove any mold release agents that may still be lingering on the parts. After the parts dry I would use Createx UVLS Gloss Clear as your primer/adhesion promoter coat. UVLS gloss has very good adhesion properties. A couple light coats should suffice. When the UVLS dries you can spray whatever Createx (Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail Colors or Illustration Colors) top coat color(s) you want. I would finish the job with another couple of coats of UVLS gloss as your final clear coat.
Hey John! Wicked and Auto Air are relatively close in viscosity based on my experience. Some colors (from both lines) are thicker than others. Keep in mind, Auto Air Colors were designed for custom automotive work which means the main goal was likely good spray performance from a spray gun rather than an airbrush. Wicked Colors were sort of a hybrid and they seem to work better for t-shirt artists who normally spray through an airbrush at higher air pressure compared to the rest of us. Most of the colors available in both lines will spray through an airbrush without issue, they just require a little more reduction.
LOL, been watching a ton of spraybrush videos recently as I slowly collected the tools I thought would work for me. Got into painting not for art but repainting fishing plugs. 2 days ago was first time anyone ever commented about leaving air on to help with tip dry. This video of yours I just watched further explained the technique. Thanks, wish I had seen this a month ago. This old dog has a lot to learn.
I'm glad you found the video helpful and I appreciate the kind words!
Great video, Trevor! You always do an excellent job of explaining the why behind what you are doing. Much appreciated!
I appreciate the kind words Karl!
Thanks for your clear explanation of why keeping the air on is both valuable and problematic. I still want a switch on my airbrush!
lol. Your question is what initially sparked this video. Then I realized what you were actually asking and unfortunately, I still don't have a good answer. I was surprised by the response you shared from Iwata as well...
I knew the answers but watched the whole video anyway,,,you have a great way of explaining to the audience.
Hey Adam! I appreciate the kind words my friend!
Completely agree that airbrushing is not cheap. I started using just my garage compressor as I airbrush in the garage anyway. Yes it's loud and a pain to have in the same room. I got a silent oil free compressor later. Not an expensive Iwata, it's still a 'garage' compressor but at about 49 dB instead of 94... Huuge difference and it can pump out more than enough air for any airbrush, a little over 100 lpm if I remember correctly. It's not as silent as a refrigerator compressor but it's about 30% of the cost for a dedicated expensive airbrush compressor, like the ones from Iwata. I did get an Iwata HP-CP airbrush though, so I couldn't blame the equipment when I failed.. ;)
Glad to know you have a good setup that works well for you. For the record, I don't recommend any of those small airbrush dedicated compressors, whether it's an Iwata or any other brand. You're better off with a compressor that is capable of running your airbrush and then some.
@@wickedartstudio Completely agree! I didn't think you did if it came out that way. I was thinking about the larger 'studio' compressors, that are ridiculuosly expensive. I meant it as a beginner tip, that there are compressors on the market that are fairly quiet but not marketed as airbrush equipment, which won't cost you an arm and a leg. Looking forward to the next episode of you fixing existing custom paintjob! Really like your content!
@@MatteLson66 Got it. We're definitely on the same page. I appreciate the kind words and support my friend!
Happy New Trevor...yes the on off was hard at first 😳 but just practice with dots lines etc. For a bit helps
Got some supper clean to TRY...
As always Thanks
Happy New Year to you as well Richard! Let me know what you think of Super Clean when you have a chance to use it.
Very informative. Thanks trevor.
Thanks Thomas!
Great Tip! Keeping the air on was the first thing my teacher told me and kept repeating.
Great vid and lovely looking cartoon :)
Thanks again for the kind words my friend!
Hey Trevor;
Excellent job as usual.
Questions for you;
1. Have you tried RIT dyes (as in fabric dyes/tie dyes) in the airbrush?
2. Have you sprayed Minwax top coats (water based or lacquer based) in your airbrush? Any thoughts as Minwax being a top coat on helmets or mailboxes?
3. What got you into airbrushing and how long did you ‘practice’ before you made $$$$$?
4. Do you leave a signature or logo on consigned work?
Thanks;
Tony
Hey Tony! Regarding your first and second questions, I've never tried either of those products through an airbrush. As far as using Minwax on a mailbox goes, I'd try to steer you away from that. I'm not sure how that product would hold up to the elements and UV rays over a long period of time. I've used their polyurethane before on a wood bar top. It's a great product for items kept indoors, but I just don't know about outside. I'd much rather use a 2k clear that's been proven to withstand the elements for years.
I've been an artist since I was little. I don't know where it came from (nobody else in my family has it), but I've always had a natural talent when it comes to art. I grew up drawing stuff all the time. My high school art teacher introduced me to the airbrush for the first time (I'm pretty sure he bought the brush, compressor and some ink out of his own pocket too which was pretty cool) and it immediately became my tool of choice. I never really looked back. I still use pencils and other mediums occasionally, but the vast majority of what I do is with an airbrush. I didn't really start making money until quite a few years later. I was road racing motorcycles at the time and painted my own helmets. Other racers started asking about the artwork on my helmets. Next thing I knew, I was painting helmets, and sometimes bikes, for all of them too. That was the point when I realized I could actually make decent money with an airbrush.
I absolutely sign everything I do and recommend every artist do the same. Whether I use a simple signature or paint my logo somewhere varies. I will always check with the client before I paint my logo (or a partial form of it) on their vehicle. Some are totally against that even if the logo will be small and blend in with the other artwork. I'm a custom car enthusiast too. I get where they're coming from. The signature is not negotiable. I will sign my work. Either way, I almost always make it a point to make the signature or the logo very inconspicuous. Most people never realize it's there unless I point it out to them.
@@wickedartstudio Hey Trevor!
Thanks again for answering my questions. And it was interesting to learn about your step into airbrushing. It sounds like you had a great teacher.
Anyhow, I used the Minwax cuz I had some that I had to use. I brushed it onto a helmet and a mailbox. They have been outside for about 2 weeks and I see no fading or other adverse effects, but it’s winter time..... I sprayed some RIT dye on an old t shirt and some wood. It makes a nice effect on wood, so so results on the t shirt. Maybe some tweaking with the amount and reducer/water will get better results. 30 psi and a .5mm needle.
I sprayed the fenders on 1 of my older dirt bikes doing flames and brushed on some Minwax. I am too cheap to buy new fenders and nobody knows what brand of bike it is now. I am not expecting it to last too long after crashing into tree branches and bouncing off the ground. I airbrushed my dirt bike boots and chest protector also. And I don’t expect the airbrushed stuff to last too long either.
The SuperClean works great!!!!! Thanks for that hint!!!! Looking forward to the existing artwork redo!!!!
Thanks;
Tony
@@Exitwoundstudio Hey Tony! Experimentation isn't always a bad thing. Some of the coolest effects in the custom paint industry were discovered by accident because an artist was trying something unconventional. Who knows... you might just be the one that invents the next popular fad in the industry.
happy new 2021 year trevor n ur family....lolol yeaa i do that from time to time still tryin to keep the finger on ..
Hey Dale! Happy New Year to you and yours as well my friend!
Lol I love the art work behind you.
Thank you Dennis!
Hopefully your daughter liked her pet portrait, happy holidays.
Hey Ron! She loved it! Happy Holidays to you and yours as well my friend!
Hi Trev
I love the cartoon, Would look great on a T shirt but he needs an airline and an airbrush.
Keeping the air on is not unlike triggering off at the end of a stroke when spraying a car with a large gun. Even though I am a paint sprayer I still let go of everything at the end of a airbrush stroke sometimes. I think I Panic a bit.
Anyway mate just a couple of questions.
If someone new to your channel comments on an early tutorial, do you get a notification? Also do you have a plan for upcoming tutorials or do you you go by the comments of what people want? It would be nice to know what you are planning to upload as a series of lessons for us.
This was meant to be a short message,Sorry.
Guy
I agree. He should've had an airline and a brush, but I wasn't looking to spend any more time on it. The cartoon was done specifically for the video and a little practice time of my own in the process.
I do the same with my spray guns. It's really not necessary to keep the air on with a spray gun (and it would likely be more difficult because activating the air flow on a spray gun is the same motion as activating the paint flow). I can definitely see how it would be a hard habit to break when one is used to working more with a full size gun though.
I do get a notification via email for all comments on my videos... or I'm supposed to get an email notification anyway. For some reason I don't get a notification for random comments on occasion. On the flip side of that, occasionally I will get the email notification, but the actual comment never appears under the video. There's a reply button embedded in the email. When I click on the reply button it takes me to the video the comment originated from; however, the comment isn't there. This has happened with a couple of your comments in the past. It's not a perfect system.
As far as your last question goes... it's a little of both. I have a long list of plans and ideas for videos I want to produce (some of these will be specific to the membership option at some point), but sometimes there are questions/comments that are easier to answer/explain in video form. Creating a video to answer some of those questions also allows more people to benefit from the answer as opposed to answering only in the comments. At the end of the day it comes down to time management on my end. Airbrush intensive instructional videos require a lot more time to create. When I'm busy with commissioned work, I don't have as much time to devote to producing these videos. I'm working on getting better organized as the channel continues to grow, but it's a slow process for me.
I know it is very time consuming to sort everything. It Probably takes longer to edit than to film.I just thought if we knew what you were planning we could all maybe ask for what we would like to see from your list of ideas. To be honest I am still happy with the basics. Perhaps chuck out a request for tuition and see how it lands with your plan. If all else fails ##ck em and carry on regardless. Not really I know you want to produce what people want.
Just a thought mate.
Guy
@@guyverney3606 Yes, it takes far longer to sit down and edit than it does to actually film everything. Editing has gotten a little faster over time because I've more or less developed a process that I know works after creating a lot of videos, but it still takes a considerable amount of time.
In reality, everything still comes down to the basics even with more advanced techniques. Developing that basic foundation is imperative. We build everything else on top of that foundation.
I'm still working on the membership option behind the scenes. That's not something I want to rush, but it will likely happen at some point this year. If it works that will be great. If it doesn't... well, I can say I tried I guess...
Need help hope you can help me I am wanting to spray small model parts car kit plastic then put then together what is the best way to get the paint to stay on the parts using createx just need to now what to put on before or after to keep the paint on like a primer and clear is what I'm looking for but only want to use the airbrush cant find the info anywhere thank you
Check out plazmo and night shift....they do military models mostly but do walk you through all the steps...and the related vids from others should be helpful
I don't have any experience with model cars, but I think I can point you in the right direction. I would start by cleaning the parts very good with some warm water and dish soap (Dawn works well). This step is important to remove any mold release agents that may still be lingering on the parts. After the parts dry I would use Createx UVLS Gloss Clear as your primer/adhesion promoter coat. UVLS gloss has very good adhesion properties. A couple light coats should suffice. When the UVLS dries you can spray whatever Createx (Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail Colors or Illustration Colors) top coat color(s) you want. I would finish the job with another couple of coats of UVLS gloss as your final clear coat.
I find the wicked paints alot thicker than the auto air
Hey John! Wicked and Auto Air are relatively close in viscosity based on my experience. Some colors (from both lines) are thicker than others. Keep in mind, Auto Air Colors were designed for custom automotive work which means the main goal was likely good spray performance from a spray gun rather than an airbrush. Wicked Colors were sort of a hybrid and they seem to work better for t-shirt artists who normally spray through an airbrush at higher air pressure compared to the rest of us. Most of the colors available in both lines will spray through an airbrush without issue, they just require a little more reduction.
Lovely 😍💋 💝💖❤️
Thank you!