Airbrush 101: Troubleshooting Air Problems
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- In Airbrush 101: Troubleshooting Air Problems, I walk you through how to reassemble the airbrush. I point out areas that benefit from lubrication and recreate common problems associated with the air system of the airbrush. All of this information gives the viewer a better understanding of how to troubleshoot and fix those problems when they occur.
Almost in F - Tranquillity by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Amazing! The beeswax seal trick really works. Fixed the pulsating problem on my siphon feed neo airbrush. Thank you.
Thank you very much for posting this video! Finally, I've fixed my sticky trigger issue!
Glad it helped you out!
The beeswax seal trick fixed my pulsating airbrush problem. Thanks!
Awesome!
So glad I clicked on this video. You literally fixed all of my beginner problems.
Glad I could help!
A well crafted video, well done. Clear images and simple explanations. Thank You
Thank you!
Thankyou so much... You've helped me mend my airbrush and I'm a real novice! Great instructions, super clear and informative. Thanks :)
Thank you for the kind words Sally!
I bought a cheap Neo brush a few years ago and had the problem with the sticking trigger. Couldn’t figure it out. Never had that problem with any other brush in 30 years. Thanks for the help.
Glad I could help!
❤😊 Thank you so much for this information!! I was about to quit and you just helped me figure out why my trigger wasn't working anymore. Thank you.
Awesome! I'm glad you found my content helpful! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment!
Thanks again man. I'm still having trouble but now I have much more knowledge to solve the problems.
Awesome! I'm glad you found the content helpful!
@@wickedartstudio my brush is a "better" chinesium but it's really frustrating when I'm in a groove and it takes a shit on me. I sold 2 paintings so the investment for quality is close at hand. Thanks again Sir.
@@bryans5150 Awesome and congratulations on selling your artwork!
Thanks for the info I'm just getting started in the airbrush scene and bought a HP-CS.
Awesome! That's a very good brush to start with in my opinion!
It sounds like a Grandfather clock ticking away! I'll definitely be listening to my airbrush in future. Some more very handy HINTS and TIPS. I'm going to get a notebook to list them or I'll forget all this valuable information. Thank you 👍😷👍🏴
Hey Andrew! This information will always be available on this channel if you ever need a refresh!
Thank you sooooo much. Without your video I would never have found out that my new airbrush was assembled in the wrong way, when it came from the shop and that was way it didn't work properly (I thought it was me or because it is one of the cheapo ones). Now thanks to your video I assembled it correctly and it works perfectly. Thank you Thank you Thank you. I am soooo happy right now :D
Awesome! Thank you for the kind words!
This was great as always. Thanks.
Thanks two videos and it’s back to normal you rock
Awesome! I'm glad the information helped you out!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I too have an HP-CS, and have encountered the fluid nozzle getting stuck, but mine stuck to the body of the airbrush. I won’t be tightening the nozzle cap so hard in future, and will get some beeswax. 👍
Years ago, I had the nozzle stuck to the airbrush body as well. I'd forgotten about that until I was in the final stage of production and didn't have time to go back and shoot that portion of the video again. You have to remember all of those parts are brass. Cranking down the head cap results in almost a compression fitting between the parts. A small amount of Beeswax around the outside of the fluid nozzle (where it sits in the airbrush body) keeps the nozzle from getting stuck in the airbrush body; however, it will still get stuck in the head cap if you overtighten it.
this video really makes me love the design of the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra even more!
I have always preferred Iwata, but the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra and Infinity are great brushes too!
Extremely helpful,thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you very much I now know I have a air leak a very well thought out instructive video many thanks again
I'm glad you found my content helpful! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Thank you this video was so helpful. I have only been airbrushingfor a few months, for artwork and the problem I am having, is although both my airbrushes are dual function, both now only spray paint even when you just push the trigger down, before you pull it back, so I cant just have air only so that I cannot apply the paint slowly and more accurately and do the detailed work I wish to practice . I have watched videos and am careful to clean them properly but keep getting this problem, would you have any suggestions please how I might fix this. Many thanks
Hi Patricia! You likely have a build up of dried paint (or some other obstruction) within the fluid nozzle that's not allowing the needle to seat properly. I suggest you remove the fluid nozzle and soak it in reducer or a good cleaner for a few hours (or overnight if needed). That should loosen up the old paint. I use an old airbrush needle to push the old paint out.
Great explanation. Well done. I have an Iwata HP-B with a new fluid nozzle and clean it regularly. However, sometimes when I press the trigger just for air, some paint sprays out without pulling the trigger back. Any ideas what might be wrong? Thank you
Hey Chuck! What is likely happening is sometimes we shut the air off at almost the exact same time as the paint. That can leave a small amount of paint on the tip of the needle that will be jettisoned as soon as the air is activated again. This is one of the reasons airbrush instructors drive home the saying "keep the air on". Get into the habit of always keeping the air on while you're airbrushing, but also form the habit of turning the air off a second or two after you've stopped the flow of paint. If you develop that habit, you won't be leaving paint on the tip of your needle anymore which will resolve the issue.
Thanks for the the tips, I have a sticky trigger problem and now know how to solve it 👍
Glad to know my video helped you out!
Had a sticky trigger myself and following your video helped me fix it. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated.
Awesome videos, appreciate your attention to detail. 👍🏼
Thank you!
Nice job again, video esiting is awesome and content is very educational. great job and thank you'!!
Thank you again for the compliments!
cool now i know my problem why my harder &steenbeck why its keep flowing air when i stopped pushing the trigger this video whas more than helpfull to me i thought i had to replace something else now i know its the teflon ring thx for this video grtz reggy
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful!
love your videos very good info on for new comers to the airbrushing world
Thank you John!
@@wickedartstudio next time I post a video from my channel I will share your channel because I`m sure there are model builders that don`t know about you
I'm not sure how much of what I do and teach will transfer over to the model building world, but I appreciate that very much!
@@wickedartstudio well I check you out and I`m a model builder and know lot of guys would like to know how to use the auto air paint also
Again, very much appreciated! I checked out a few of your videos too. Your models are incredibly detailed! Very cool stuff!
Hello, do you use the beeswax only to lubricate the o ring? Or do you use it for lubricating the needle as well?
Only for the O-ring and threads. I do not recommend lubricating the needle with Beeswax.
Dios te bendiga hermano! Excelente vídeo, esperó que estés bien en tu país, felíz año nuevo, bendiciones
¡Hola Carlos! ¡Espero lo mejor para usted y su familia en el nuevo año también! ¡Gracias mi amigo!
Very informative video. Thank you. I had a question. I just received my airbrush and the paint is refusing to spray out. I can’t even get pure water to spray, just the air. I cleaned, assembled and reassembled multiple times. What can you suggest?
What brand and model airbrush did you get? Is it gravity fed or siphon fed?
Gravity fed. The infinity cr plus. I did notice there was some water that came out of the airhead. I cleaned it again, and applied a firmer seal. I don’t see water (or feel air) exiting the air head anymore, but still nothing is spraying out.
@@christophercornacchio9679 Are you seeing and/or hearing air bubbles in the cup when you try to spray water through the brush? Have you tried spraying with the cap removed from the cup?
Thank you sooo much sir!
It really helped me! Be blessed! ❤🙏
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the video & tips have been having problems with what you explained where would I get some bee's wax? 2nd time your advice has help me THANK YOU!!!
Glad it helped you out! You can find the exact same Beeswax I use here amzn.to/2GjHnVp
I recently purchased a Timbertech airbrush and I'm having difficulty with the paint not spraying. The air is exiting the nozzle is fine, but no paint, and there are bubbles forming inside the paint cup. What could possibly be my problem? I am using a 0.3 needle and air cap.
You likely have an air leak somewhere in the head of the airbrush. Take the front of the airbrush apart and use a small dab of Beeswax or chap stick on all of the threads before reassembling the brush. That should seal the air leak and get the brush going again.
This is a great video and was very informative. I've been having an issue recently and can't seem to find a solution so any help would be much appreciated. No matter which brush i use, from my cheap brush to my iwata hp-c plus the airflow feels really weak even at 30 to 40psi and both brushes struggle to spray paint. They worked fine for a day or two when i bought them but now they're suffering the same problem. I've cleaned them multiple times but they still do the same thing. I'm quite new to this and it is affecting my enjoyment of the hobby. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I appreciate the kind words! It's pretty rare to experience the exact same problem with two separate brushes. Based on that information, it's likely your issue is coming from your air source rather than a problem with the airbrush itself. What are you using for your air source?
Gotta iwata gravity. Since I bought it when I put paint in it when I pull the trigger it blows air and paint out the cup. So instead of pulling air and paint threw it blows it out the cup. Thanks for any help.
Hey Dusty! Your problem is the result of air entering the paint channel. Figuring out exactly where this is happening is the challenge. The most common causes are a bad seal somewhere in the nozzle, bad head cap/nozzle cap alignment or a split fluid nozzle. Check the O-ring behind the head cap and make sure the threads are sealed with Beeswax or an alternative sealing agent. If that doesn't fix the issue try tightening the nozzle cap slightly (no more than a quarter turn at a time) until you find the "sweet spot" where a good seal is achieved. A word of caution - the threads on the airbrush body and the cap are soft brass and easily stripped if too much force is exerted - don't overdo it! If the fluid nozzle is split or damaged in any way you'll have to replace that part.
Hi.
I did everything you said, except the Bees wax.
I have an Iwata Revolution Hc-Br it doesn't have any o rings, I changed the nozzle and needle. Still getting bubbles in my cup. It's driving me crazy.
I just purchased this in March of this year, it was working great when I got it, now nothing but problems I don't know how to fix. (This is my first airbrush)
Please help.
There should be an O-ring between the head cap and the airbrush body. If that is missing, it's likely the source of your air leak. If not, I highly recommend a dab of beeswax. It works!
What do you think about plumber's tapes instead of beeswax to seal the threads?
I don't recommend it and here's why: Teflon tape is great at sealing threads on air lines or plumbing lines. There's no doubt about that. The airbrush is made of soft brass similar to many of those air lines and/or plumbing lines; however, the airbrush doesn't have the same thickness when it comes to the material surrounding those brass threads. The threads on the airbrush generally use a finer thread pitch as well. Those two factors make it much easier to damage the delicate threads on your airbrush, especially when you add a foreign material like Teflon tape. Teflon tape is not as forgiving as Beeswax or chap stick which increases the odds of damaging the threads. Beeswax or chap stick will easily move as you thread the nozzle or needle cap back on. Teflon doesn't move so easily. Teflon is also harder to remove wen cleaning/resealing the brush. Damage to the threads normally results in replacing the airbrush in my experience. So, Teflon tape will work, but it's not the best choice in my opinion. Does that make sense?
I need some help with my airbrush. I have a iwata neo TRN1. First I would like to know the working pressure. When I spray it puts out spurts out paint it also paints a eggshell texture. I need some help if you please. Thank you very much.
Hi Terry. There really isn't a standard "working pressure" for any given airbrush. The pressure you choose to use really depends on the artist and what she/he is doing with it. I'm generally in the range of 10 to 35 psi for what I do. Most of the time I'm working at about 30 psi. 25 to 30 psi is a good place to start. It's difficult to troubleshoot problems without being able to see exactly what your brush is doing, but I suspect you likely have a buildup of dried paint within the fluid nozzle of your brush that is causing the issues you've described. The fluid nozzle will need to be removed and soaked in a cleaning solution to loosen up the dried paint. A small dental brush works well for removing the paint after that.
@@wickedartstudio Thank you very much. I think the other problem is my paint mixer. I’m going to do what you do one to one ratio. Thank you. I’ll continue watching your video I think this one is so better to learn from.
@@terrywhitsitt8629 Your reduction ratio is likely part of the issue as well. I say that based on the way you describe the "eggshell texture". Properly reduced and atomized paint should lay flat with very little if any texture in the finish. Thick paint with little reduction can spray blotchy and leave a texture in the finish because the paint isn't being atomized correctly as it leaves the airbrush. You have to find the balance between the proper reduction ratio and the correct air pressure to spray. It takes some experimentation and can be frustrating at times but stick with it. Once you get that figured out the learning curve will become easier. I appreciate the kind words!
@@wickedartstudio thank you so much. Yes I do get frustrated. I know I can’t get it so quick. Take time. You have the best instruction I’ve seen. Keep up the instructions. Thank you.
Great video. I'm new to airbrushing and appreciate the tips. I bought one of those inexpensive Master airbrush kits from Amazon. I probably should have spent more money. I'm having an issue and was wondering if anyone knew what causes this. When spraying a line for example, I push down for air, start moving the airbrush, pull back for paint, draw the line, push forward to stop paint (keeping air on) but the paint doesn't completely stop. It leaves a faint, thin line for another couple of inches. It's new and I've cleaned it after every use. I re-seated the needle many times and it appears to be straight. Under magnification the nozzle doesn't appear to be split. Any help would be appreciated.
I have absolutely zero experience with the Master brand airbrushes. So, I have no idea what the quality level is. With that in mind, there are generally only a couple of things that can create the issue you're experiencing and you're already on the right track. The needle isn't seating properly or the nozzle is damaged are the two main causes. You mentioned the brush continues to spray for a couple of inches and then stops. So, we can assume the needle and nozzle are seating properly, just not when they are supposed to. When you put the needle back into the airbrush you should feel a positive stop when it seats into the nozzle. If it feels squishy at all there is more than likely a small amount of paint, or some other material (a build up of airbrush lubricant in the nozzle can cause the issue too) that is slowing the needle from seating in the nozzle. If you're absolutely certain there is nothing within the nozzle that could cause the needle to slow down, the trigger spring could be too weak, or there is a defect elsewhere in the trigger assembly. Check for any small burrs on the swiveling part of the needle chuck guide and on the backside of the trigger where the two parts ride against each other. It won't hurt to lightly file those parts even if you can't see a burr or some other defect. Adding a small amount of lubricant to those parts might also help. If none of that fixes the issue, there is likely a manufactures defect in the needle and/or nozzle causing the seating process to slow down. Again, it could be a small burr on either of those parts or some other defect related to tolerance. Like I said, I have no experience with the Master brand, but I suspect the tolerances and the quality are on the low end compared to other airbrushes. As a last resort you might try replacing the needle and nozzle. Good luck!
Wow thanks for the detailed reply. That all makes sense to me. I will go through it and see what I can find.
Like I said, it's leaving a VERY faint, thin line for a couple inches. And I can really only see it when spraying very dark paint. Should there be ANY paint at all leaving the nozzle, even for a couple seconds with the trigger off?
I'm glad to help. There shouldn't be any paint flowing if the trigger is fully forward unless you've pulled it back without the air on and loaded the needle. Even then, you'll only get a very small amount of paint when you activate the air (not enough to spray a line).
My airbrush is the portable type where the airbrush directly scews into the compressor
I disassembled my previous airbrush to do a deep clean, reassembled it, only to find paint started to leak into the stem where the air goes in. I tried to take apart and assemble it again but the issue wasn't solved
I bought a new airbrush. After a few rounds of painting which went fine, I disassembled it to do a clean, reassembled it and did a water test. And it now had the same leaking issue as the previous.
AND I HAVE NO IDEA WHY!!!! 😭😭😭
Thanks learned something
Great to hear! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment!
I took apart the airbrush and after I reassembled, the trigger goes down to a hard stop and ni air comes out.
My guess is the bottom of the trigger (the part that pivots) more than likely got pushed up and back as you installed it which is easy to do. The lower portion of the trigger needs to drop down into the top of the air valve assembly in order for the trigger to work.
@@wickedartstudio I checked and the post is down into the black o-ring. I can turn the gun over and see the post moving in and out. If I stick a piece of wire down and push it I get air but if I use the triggers movable pivoting post, I get nothing.
@@JoeFortunato009 Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town for the weekend. Did you have the air valve assembly out of the brush as well?
Here's where it gets weird. I must have lost the nozzle cap washer. Once I loosened it a turn and a half. The air flowed. I had the right size needle and needle cap but if you screw it in without a washer, no air comes out. I unscrewed it and spun thread into the gap and now it works (Until I buy a better brush)
@@JoeFortunato009 Well, at least you got it figured out! 🙂