I just got interested in airbrushing watching some of car restoration programs on tv. I use to do the Bob Ross style of painting and it was fun. I saw several airbrush videos on you tube and came across yours and just finished watching your three 101 videos and order a airbrush like yours and some other things I will need. Your videos are easy to follow and understand. I can't wait for all my stuff to come in and get started airbrushing with your video lessons. I think for a 73 year old man it will keep be out of trouble and I can pass some of what I learn on to my grand kids. Thanks for your videos and plan to use yours for my journey of airbrushing.
Thank you so much for the kind words Paul! I truly appreciate comments like yours because it lets me know I'm doing something right (at least some of the time) and that keeps me motivated to continue making videos. I did some oil painting many, many years ago myself. The airbrush always took center stage for me though. If you ever have questions, or have something you'd like to see/learn in a video, please don't hesitate to ask my friend!
My mothertongue is german and i watched many videos for beginners in my own language, but this explanation in your video was the best and understandable for me till now! Thank you for that!
You have to be the best instructor on RUclips. Not only do you describe issues, you demonstrate them as well. If I am ever close to your area, I would love to take a class. I must warn you I have no skills as an artist. Thanks again for your videos.
I appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you found some value in my videos! I'm passionate about my art and I enjoy teaching others how to do what I do. One of the great things about the airbrush in my opinion is there are no art skills required. There are a number of tools and techniques you can use in conjunction with the airbrush that make turning out impressive artwork surprisingly simple! Anyone can learn to do this, it just takes practice.
I'm glad you found the content helpful! It can be frustrating at times. Hopefully that frustration will go away once you find the right combination that works well for you.
Thanks Trevor for the tip..been working on this from a previous video I ask you a question about this and my problem with my paint and reduction with air pressure Thanks for this video and your help
Im using a cheap standard compressor (no tank) like most of the cheap compressors out there. I've set it at 10, 15 and 20 psi settings and have tested pure water through my airbrush and the water is not an consistent flow. What it does is every time the compressor pumps air through the line you can literally see more water spraying and when the compressor is not pumping then the flow is less. You can see this by looking and watching the stream from behind the brush as it sprays out and it does this on all psi settings. I'm using an Badger 105 Patriot and it has done this from the time I've taken it out of the box brand new. Also,... as I'm spraying actual paint i can hold the trigger in one spot without moving it as if I'm spraying about an 1/8" line and all of the sudden the paint will just stop after about 10 seconds. I also keep the air flowing as i stop painting instead of lifting off the air and pressing back on again and again like you would with a rattle can of paint. This doe's this with water and several different mixes of paint and with several different thicknesses of paint and of course never using the paint too thick. I have never seen an airbrush act this way. I've taken it apart several times and it's clean as clean can be. I don't understand this but the only thing I can think is I got a lemon. The needle is an 0.5mm as it came with this setup. I've been painting for several years.
Hi Alan. Try adding a small amount of Chapstick or bees wax to the threads around the head cap and nozzle cap of the airbrush. Without an airtight seal around those components, the brush will pulse similar to what you've described. It also sounds like you might need a better compressor. Most of those cheap compressors are only designed to put out just enough air to run the brush. They aren't designed for the abuse of running a brush constantly for extended periods of time. Compressors like that simply can't keep up with the demand. They will work okay for a while, but you're putting a lot of wear and tear, as well as heat, on the internal parts of that compressor. As far as air pressure is concerned, 10 to 20 psi is a little on the low side for a brush with a .5mm needle and nozzle set. I'm not saying you can't run the brush at lower pressures, but have you tried bumping your pressure up? You might see better results somewhere in the 25 to 35 psi range.
@@wickedartstudio Hi!, well thank you for the fast reply. I tried the brush on higher psi before around 30psi but for the object I was working on it was a bit too much causing the paint to spread between two surfaces where they meet together and the only way to avoid this "spread" was to use a lower air and build up the edge of paint to avoid the spread. I've also been looking around at the same airbrush you mention in your links (Iwata Eclipse HP CS) also I'll be going to an compressor with a tank. I had one before but it broke down so i was using this cheapo in the meantime. I did notice really tiny bubbles around the head cap last night. I could only see them after submerging the cap under water. They were very tiny so there is definitely air escaping. I draw freehand pencil drawings when it comes to artwork and been doing this since I was a kid. I'm 57 now but only got into the airbrush scene originally for painting rc model helicopters and tanks just over 3 years ago. RC Tank 1/16th scale: photos.app.goo.gl/TQDnKgnNVszULc1Q7 Tank: photos.app.goo.gl/uc86aHkFzVSdmV4BA Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/WGDrmXSvLJ2nQfYF8 Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/AtDPJGkNNrBKhNs7A Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/wuCpFA7haoo2BbVa8 (the actual drawing does not have the copy-write symbol or text) RC Helicopter 1/6th scale: photos.app.goo.gl/pb7oaWnugimSZdtf9 and of course the drawings and the helicopter pic look better in person since the camera is not the best but.... Thanks again for the fast reply. I think I'll go ahead and get another compressor and a better brush too.
@@alanw2235 Nice! You definitely have some artistic skill! Thank you for sharing some of your work with us! I think you'll be happier with a better compressor and possibly even a better airbrush. You can't go wrong with Iwata in my opinion.
Great video and very informative. I was wondering if the AB you have will work well with Duracoat and what needle size, compressor setting etc.. would be good to start point. I’m sure I’ll have a lot of trial and error. Thanks.
Hi Dave! I've never used Duracoat, but I have used Cerakote. Cerakote worked really well through my airbrushes (it's pretty thin). I'm not sure how Duracoat compares, but I would imagine it's similar. Any mid-range airbrush with a .30mm or larger needle size should work well. We're all a little bit different when it comes to reduction and psi settings. So, that will require some trial and error to find what works best for you in the conditions you'll be painting in. I would suggest starting somewhere in the 30 to 35 psi range.
Just getting into the airbrushing and had a simple (and possibly silly) question: I noticed several different airbrushing artists do not use the muzzle cap. Why do they even install it on then? What benefit is there to leave it on?
Good video Trevor! I use my airbrush air and Paint mixture very similar as you do from what I have seen in your video. I've done painting on and off since I was 19 years old. I've done auto body repair and painting on cars and many other things, I have recently started with airbrushing. From my experience from my past painting helped my learning curve on airbrushing, I paint on just about anything I can get my hands on, I am painting a lot to regain my skills from my past. I watched some of your videos and like how you explain what you are doing and why, many do not fully explain how they get a certain look and will not understand, you touch on areas than needs to be said for good understanding on what they are doing. Keep up the good work and I enjoy watching the tutorials.
Thanks for the kind words Michael! I've always enjoyed teaching others, but I find it more difficult teaching through video because I don't get that one-on-one feedback in real time. Sometimes I wonder if I'm explaining things well enough for others to understand. Reading comments like yours makes me believe I must be on the right track!
An airbrush will spray any paint, provided it is reduced enough to properly atomize. I wouldn't recommend using exterior house paint though. I'm not sure what reducer you would need, and the color wouldn't cover very quickly after being reduced enough to spray through the brush.
Thanks for a great informative video . A question inn my mind is ; In dilutinng the paint beyond the percentages Createx specifies , is the adhesion to substrate compromized ? Have you noticed a ratio at which this begins to occur ?
Great question! With other paint systems there is a reduction limit. The binder in the paint is broken down sufficiently to affect adhesion when that limit is exceeded; however, I have yet to find that limit with Createx paint and I don't believe there is a limit based on my own experience. I've reduced Createx paint up to 500 times per volume with no issues (I don't recommend diluting your paint that much, I essentially did this years ago just to test the limit). I appreciate the kind words my friend!
@@wickedartstudio Thanks so much for your lightning responnse - and the answer was jusrt what I was hoping to hear - but figured to be otherwise . I'm a land/seascape painter & am fond of thin glaze layers for subtle toning - often fretting aout whether or not these layers will part companny from my acrylic underpainting over time . I started with oils back in the 50's
I’m very new at airbrushing. I need some advice on why does my paint spattered. I’ve gone up and down with air pressure. I have a Iwata trigger. I have the same problem with a Masters Pro 120. I’m going to try your one to one ratio. I’ve spent a lot of money on these airbrush’s. I use the paint cans and they turn out very well. But I have paint everywhere to.
It is nearly impossible to diagnose issues when I can't see exactly what is happening. If adjusting your reduction ratio doesn't improve or fix the issue, you likely need to clean the brush thoroughly. If you continue to have issues you can email me pictures of the paint "spatter" at wickedartstudio@gmail.com and I may be able to offer some more advice.
Thank you for this . I've just bought an air brush. I'm having trouble getting fine lines. Is this purely an air pressure issue or can I adjust something in the airbrush that will give me fine lines?..... thanks again - great video
Hi Robbie! Achieving fine lines comes down to how much control the user has, as well as the air pressure setting and reduction ratio you are using. Control comes with practice. Finding the air pressure setting and reduction ratio that works best for you also requires some experimentation because there are so many factors that influence how the airbrush and paint mixture works. Many of those factors are beyond our control. I have another set of videos addressing reduction ratios that you might find helpful. You can find the first one here ruclips.net/video/nnk4H0F1saA/видео.html (there should be a link in the video for part 2). I appreciate the kind words!
@@wickedartstudio Thanks so much for your reply. i think I'll just have to practice and experiment more.... I got confused as I thought getting fine lines was an adjustment in the airbrush itself!.... from what I understand its simply a case of finding the right air pressure , paint consistency and distance from the subject. Thanks again - I will refer to the other videos...
@@8563robbie You bet! I try to reply to every comment. It might be several days before I can respond, but I do try to reply to them all. You are correct. There is no adjustment on the airbrush itself that can be used to "dial in" a brush in order to create fine detail lines. Finding the air pressure setting and reduction ratio that works best for you will make it easier. Developing good fundamental control of the airbrush through practice and repetition plays a big role in that as well though.
Hi Hector! Yes, that is possible. The amount of reduction you choose to use with 4011 Reducer will depend somewhat on the environmental factors where you are spraying, as well as your air pressure setting. A one to two ratio isn't a bad place to start though. If that ratio atomizes and sprays well I would use it. If it doesn't you will need to make some adjustments. Adding a half part of 4030 to your mix would be fine as well, but that is a little bit wasteful in my opinion. In reality, you only need to add around 10 to 30 percent of 4030. Using a little more than that doesn't hurt anything, but you will burn through the product faster. Adding more 4030 will also increase the transparency of whatever color you are mixing it with. Just something to be aware of...
Im in Arizona (very dry). No matter what I do, my tip clogs almost immediately. Im constantly dumping and cleaning and very rarely get a good spray session. I use vallejo tamiya and ammo by mig acrylics mostly and thin 50/50 or 1 to 1. My last spray session on a model tank I had to thin the paint so much that it pooled on my model and I had to re prime pre shade and base coat it. Any suggestions?
I've never used either of those brands. My suggestion would be try adding a retarding additive to your paint (an example can be found here amzn.to/3pNrCP2 ). Adding a retarding agent will prolong the dry time and should reduce the tip dry in your dry climate. Follow the directions when it comes to mixing the retarding agent into your paint though. A little goes a long way. Something else you might try is adding a bit of spray gun or airbrush lube to the end of your needle before each paint session.
100% noob here Just got mine out for the first time today, watching your videos before I do anything, glad I have cause I would have made a mess and gave up
Why will the airbrush i just got not spray paint out if i dont have the nozzle cap taken off like u said in the part about the tip dry?? Soon as i put it back it sprays but if i take it off it only sprays air no paint no matter how far i pull back
Hi Nick! I'm not sure if you're talking about the nozzle cap or the needle cap. There are some airbrushes that won't spray paint with the needle cap removed. That's just the way they are designed. If you're talking about the needle cap, I suspect you own one of those airbrushes. Some airbrushes will spray paint with the nozzle cap removed; however, you'll get a stippled pattern compared to a finely atomized spray pattern. Most airbrushes nowadays won't spray anything with the nozzle cap removed though.
My only problem is that I cannot adjust air pressure, I have a pressure around 20 psi and cannot adjust it, so I can only thin it to be able to airbrush it....
Hi Marco! I'll assume you cannot adjust air pressure because your compressor doesn't have a regulator. One option you do have is to purchase a MAC valve that attaches to your airbrush hose before it gets connected to your brush. The MAC valve will allow you some air pressure adjustment; however, it won't be as accurate as a regulator because the MAC valve doesn't have a pressure gauge. You will still be limited by the compressor as to how much pressure you can use. If about 20 psi is all your compressor can produce, you cannot adjust for more pressure without purchasing a better compressor.
When, despite of right cleaning, there are splashes? Can’t understand why and not be able to get right ratio.... may be still too thin? I started 7 to 3 thinner/paint and gradually added paint...I’m at the very beginning obviously 😊
What do you mean when you say "there are splashes"? Again, it's very difficult to diagnose the issue when I can't see what you're doing. If you can provide me with more information that will help.
@@wickedartstudio I keep trying...somehow I’m getting the way of balance paint/pressure/surface/distance... the issue was too slippery surface (dried acrylic painting) thank you. Your videos were very useful for me 👍😉
Temperature is pretty much always a constant because I work in a climate controlled environment. The temperature is normally somewhere between 68 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit. On average, the humidity where I'm located is above 50 percent year round. It gets very high during the spring and summer months.
Five to ten minutes to emulsify? I just started in airbrushing and didn't get much resolts. Maybe that is my problem. But I saw so much videos on it and it seems that no one does that.
It is not absolutely necessary to wait. You can spray the product immediately after adding reducer if you choose to do so. Based on my own experience, the paint does spray better when given ten minutes or so to acclimate and/or emulsify. That's especially true if using a spray gun rather than an airbrush. Water-based paint has a higher surface tension compared to a solvent based system. It takes a few minutes for the reducer to break down that surface tension in order for the paint and the reducer to meld together completely.
@@wickedartstudio maybe that why I have so much problems. I’m new and first I thought it was the airbrush. Then me. Also I have gummy problems. I thought it’s because I bought some at the dollar store, but at Michael’s too, they have paint that are gummy
@@chauffeurmarco Water-based paint does have a shelf life. That shelf life can be dramatically reduced if the paint is subjected to very cold temperatures during storage or transport. If the paint you have purchased is gummy, it's probably been on the shelf for a long time, or it hasn't been stored correctly before being placed on the shelf for sale. You might have better luck ordering your paint rather than purchasing it in store if that is the case.
@@wickedartstudio yeah, I realize that I'm better off ordering online. Hey, even at Michael’s their paint are gummy. If I can’t trust them, no way I’ll by at the dollar store or even at Walmart
after watching about 50 videos on airbrushing I finally found this gem. good job.
Thank you!
I just got interested in airbrushing watching some of car restoration programs on tv. I use to do the Bob Ross style of painting and it was fun. I saw several airbrush videos on you tube and came across yours and just finished watching your three 101 videos and order a airbrush like yours and some other things I will need. Your videos are easy to follow and understand. I can't wait for all my stuff to come in and get started airbrushing with your video lessons. I think for a 73 year old man it will keep be out of trouble and I can pass some of what I learn on to my grand kids. Thanks for your videos and plan to use yours for my journey of airbrushing.
Thank you so much for the kind words Paul! I truly appreciate comments like yours because it lets me know I'm doing something right (at least some of the time) and that keeps me motivated to continue making videos. I did some oil painting many, many years ago myself. The airbrush always took center stage for me though. If you ever have questions, or have something you'd like to see/learn in a video, please don't hesitate to ask my friend!
My mothertongue is german and i watched many videos for beginners in my own language, but this explanation in your video was the best and understandable for me till now! Thank you for that!
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment and I'm glad you got something out of the video!
You have to be the best instructor on RUclips. Not only do you describe issues, you demonstrate them as well. If I am ever close to your area, I would love to take a class. I must warn you I have no skills as an artist. Thanks again for your videos.
I appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you found some value in my videos! I'm passionate about my art and I enjoy teaching others how to do what I do. One of the great things about the airbrush in my opinion is there are no art skills required. There are a number of tools and techniques you can use in conjunction with the airbrush that make turning out impressive artwork surprisingly simple! Anyone can learn to do this, it just takes practice.
I'm starting to do models again. This by far the best tutorial I've learned for Airbrushing. Thank you. 👍
Thank you!
Clear, thorough, no showing off.
Great video, thx a lot.
Thank you!
Many people don't understand how many factors effect air pressure to reduction ratio - the best is lots of practice and experimental experience.
I couldn't agree more!
Like a few of us I imagine I'm revisiting my airbrush after a few years. This video hit the nail on the head for me. Cheers Trevor
Thank you Thomas!
As a beginner I found this extremely helpful. Thanks.
Thank you!
Very good. I'm just getting started and was getting frustrated. This gives me some points to start looking for. Thank you.
I'm glad you found the content helpful! It can be frustrating at times. Hopefully that frustration will go away once you find the right combination that works well for you.
Thanks. The playlist was recommended. It was worth it.
Thank you!
Cool stuff. The thumbnail is great!
Thank you!
Great professional advice. I would feel guilty watching this without saying thank you ! 😂
Thanks for this one, I’ve been searching about PSI AND you summed up everything I needed to know in a straight to it way.
Awesome! Thank you for the kind words!
been airbusing for about 8 months and i STILL feel like a beginner lol thanks for the video
Hi Jude! You'll get there my friend. It just takes practice. I've been airbrushing for 30 years now and I still struggle sometimes.
Thank you so much for this video, the last part is what I've been looking for.. Made so many things fall into place thanks :)
Awesome! I'm glad you found the content helpful!
Thanks Trevor for the tip..been working on this from a previous video I ask you a question about this and my problem with my paint and reduction with air pressure
Thanks for this video and your help
Thanks Richard! It just takes practice my friend!
thank you from India, where airbrushing is relatively new for furniture painting
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your skills.
Thank you!
Im using a cheap standard compressor (no tank) like most of the cheap compressors out there. I've set it at 10, 15 and 20 psi settings and have tested pure water through my airbrush and the water is not an consistent flow. What it does is every time the compressor pumps air through the line you can literally see more water spraying and when the compressor is not pumping then the flow is less. You can see this by looking and watching the stream from behind the brush as it sprays out and it does this on all psi settings. I'm using an Badger 105 Patriot and it has done this from the time I've taken it out of the box brand new. Also,... as I'm spraying actual paint i can hold the trigger in one spot without moving it as if I'm spraying about an 1/8" line and all of the sudden the paint will just stop after about 10 seconds. I also keep the air flowing as i stop painting instead of lifting off the air and pressing back on again and again like you would with a rattle can of paint. This doe's this with water and several different mixes of paint and with several different thicknesses of paint and of course never using the paint too thick. I have never seen an airbrush act this way. I've taken it apart several times and it's clean as clean can be. I don't understand this but the only thing I can think is I got a lemon. The needle is an 0.5mm as it came with this setup. I've been painting for several years.
Hi Alan. Try adding a small amount of Chapstick or bees wax to the threads around the head cap and nozzle cap of the airbrush. Without an airtight seal around those components, the brush will pulse similar to what you've described.
It also sounds like you might need a better compressor. Most of those cheap compressors are only designed to put out just enough air to run the brush. They aren't designed for the abuse of running a brush constantly for extended periods of time. Compressors like that simply can't keep up with the demand. They will work okay for a while, but you're putting a lot of wear and tear, as well as heat, on the internal parts of that compressor.
As far as air pressure is concerned, 10 to 20 psi is a little on the low side for a brush with a .5mm needle and nozzle set. I'm not saying you can't run the brush at lower pressures, but have you tried bumping your pressure up? You might see better results somewhere in the 25 to 35 psi range.
@@wickedartstudio Hi!, well thank you for the fast reply. I tried the brush on higher psi before around 30psi but for the object I was working on it was a bit too much causing the paint to spread between two surfaces where they meet together and the only way to avoid this "spread" was to use a lower air and build up the edge of paint to avoid the spread.
I've also been looking around at the same airbrush you mention in your links (Iwata Eclipse HP CS) also I'll be going to an compressor with a tank. I had one before but it broke down so i was using this cheapo in the meantime. I did notice really tiny bubbles around the head cap last night. I could only see them after submerging the cap under water. They were very tiny so there is definitely air escaping.
I draw freehand pencil drawings when it comes to artwork and been doing this since I was a kid. I'm 57 now but only got into the airbrush scene originally for painting rc model helicopters and tanks just over 3 years ago.
RC Tank 1/16th scale: photos.app.goo.gl/TQDnKgnNVszULc1Q7
Tank: photos.app.goo.gl/uc86aHkFzVSdmV4BA
Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/WGDrmXSvLJ2nQfYF8
Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/AtDPJGkNNrBKhNs7A
Drawing: photos.app.goo.gl/wuCpFA7haoo2BbVa8 (the actual drawing does not have the copy-write symbol or text)
RC Helicopter 1/6th scale: photos.app.goo.gl/pb7oaWnugimSZdtf9
and of course the drawings and the helicopter pic look better in person since the camera is not the best but....
Thanks again for the fast reply. I think I'll go ahead and get another compressor and a better brush too.
@@alanw2235 Nice! You definitely have some artistic skill! Thank you for sharing some of your work with us! I think you'll be happier with a better compressor and possibly even a better airbrush. You can't go wrong with Iwata in my opinion.
Great video, very instructive, thank you (chris from France)
Thank you Chris!
awesome video. this helped a LOT
Awesome! Thank you!
Plenty of good tips Trevor, Thank You.
Thanks again Doug!
Great video and very informative. I was wondering if the AB you have will work well with Duracoat and what needle size, compressor setting etc.. would be good to start point. I’m sure I’ll have a lot of trial and error. Thanks.
Hi Dave! I've never used Duracoat, but I have used Cerakote. Cerakote worked really well through my airbrushes (it's pretty thin). I'm not sure how Duracoat compares, but I would imagine it's similar. Any mid-range airbrush with a .30mm or larger needle size should work well. We're all a little bit different when it comes to reduction and psi settings. So, that will require some trial and error to find what works best for you in the conditions you'll be painting in. I would suggest starting somewhere in the 30 to 35 psi range.
Just getting into the airbrushing and had a simple (and possibly silly) question: I noticed several different airbrushing artists do not use the muzzle cap. Why do they even install it on then? What benefit is there to leave it on?
Great question! This is also a question that I don't think I've addressed in any of my other videos yet. I'll cover this in my next upload.
Good video Trevor! I use my airbrush air and Paint mixture very similar as you do from what I have seen in your video. I've done painting on and off since I was 19 years old. I've done auto body repair and painting on cars and many other things, I have recently started with airbrushing. From my experience from my past painting helped my learning curve on airbrushing, I paint on just about anything I can get my hands on, I am painting a lot to regain my skills from my past. I watched some of your videos and like how you explain what you are doing and why, many do not fully explain how they get a certain look and will not understand, you touch on areas than needs to be said for good understanding on what they are doing. Keep up the good work and I enjoy watching the tutorials.
Thanks for the kind words Michael! I've always enjoyed teaching others, but I find it more difficult teaching through video because I don't get that one-on-one feedback in real time. Sometimes I wonder if I'm explaining things well enough for others to understand. Reading comments like yours makes me believe I must be on the right track!
With a NEO CN for IWATA with 0,35 nozzle, at 11 psi with acrilic gloss white and thin 20A at 1/1 i am very happy for my 1:48 aircraft models.
Awesome! You've found what works for you and that's all that matters my friend!
I enjoyed your video. Could I use exterior house paint in an air brush to touch up small spots on my front door.
An airbrush will spray any paint, provided it is reduced enough to properly atomize. I wouldn't recommend using exterior house paint though. I'm not sure what reducer you would need, and the color wouldn't cover very quickly after being reduced enough to spray through the brush.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks man, very helpful
Thank you!
Thanks for a great informative video . A question inn my mind is ; In dilutinng the paint beyond the percentages Createx specifies , is the adhesion to substrate compromized ? Have you noticed a ratio at which this begins to occur ?
Great question! With other paint systems there is a reduction limit. The binder in the paint is broken down sufficiently to affect adhesion when that limit is exceeded; however, I have yet to find that limit with Createx paint and I don't believe there is a limit based on my own experience. I've reduced Createx paint up to 500 times per volume with no issues (I don't recommend diluting your paint that much, I essentially did this years ago just to test the limit). I appreciate the kind words my friend!
@@wickedartstudio Thanks so much for your lightning responnse - and the answer was jusrt what I was hoping to hear - but figured to be otherwise . I'm a land/seascape painter & am fond of thin glaze layers for subtle toning - often fretting aout whether or not these layers will part companny from my acrylic underpainting over time . I started with oils back in the 50's
@@petergreen5319 I'm glad to help my friend! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave your comments!
I’m very new at airbrushing. I need some advice on why does my paint spattered. I’ve gone up and down with air pressure. I have a Iwata trigger. I have the same problem with a Masters Pro 120. I’m going to try your one to one ratio. I’ve spent a lot of money on these airbrush’s. I use the paint cans and they turn out very well. But I have paint everywhere to.
It is nearly impossible to diagnose issues when I can't see exactly what is happening. If adjusting your reduction ratio doesn't improve or fix the issue, you likely need to clean the brush thoroughly. If you continue to have issues you can email me pictures of the paint "spatter" at wickedartstudio@gmail.com and I may be able to offer some more advice.
Incredible video
Thank you!
Brilliant. Thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you for this . I've just bought an air brush. I'm having trouble getting fine lines. Is this purely an air pressure issue or can I adjust something in the airbrush that will give me fine lines?..... thanks again - great video
Hi Robbie! Achieving fine lines comes down to how much control the user has, as well as the air pressure setting and reduction ratio you are using. Control comes with practice. Finding the air pressure setting and reduction ratio that works best for you also requires some experimentation because there are so many factors that influence how the airbrush and paint mixture works. Many of those factors are beyond our control. I have another set of videos addressing reduction ratios that you might find helpful. You can find the first one here ruclips.net/video/nnk4H0F1saA/видео.html (there should be a link in the video for part 2). I appreciate the kind words!
@@wickedartstudio Thanks so much for your reply. i think I'll just have to practice and experiment more.... I got confused as I thought getting fine lines was an adjustment in the airbrush itself!.... from what I understand its simply a case of finding the right air pressure , paint consistency and distance from the subject. Thanks again - I will refer to the other videos...
@@8563robbie You bet! I try to reply to every comment. It might be several days before I can respond, but I do try to reply to them all.
You are correct. There is no adjustment on the airbrush itself that can be used to "dial in" a brush in order to create fine detail lines. Finding the air pressure setting and reduction ratio that works best for you will make it easier. Developing good fundamental control of the airbrush through practice and repetition plays a big role in that as well though.
Hello, for paint plastics, it’s possible a good chance use 1 part of paint, 1/2 part 4011 reducer and 1/2 part of 4030 ?
Hi Hector! Yes, that is possible. The amount of reduction you choose to use with 4011 Reducer will depend somewhat on the environmental factors where you are spraying, as well as your air pressure setting. A one to two ratio isn't a bad place to start though. If that ratio atomizes and sprays well I would use it. If it doesn't you will need to make some adjustments. Adding a half part of 4030 to your mix would be fine as well, but that is a little bit wasteful in my opinion. In reality, you only need to add around 10 to 30 percent of 4030. Using a little more than that doesn't hurt anything, but you will burn through the product faster. Adding more 4030 will also increase the transparency of whatever color you are mixing it with. Just something to be aware of...
Im in Arizona (very dry). No matter what I do, my tip clogs almost immediately. Im constantly dumping and cleaning and very rarely get a good spray session. I use vallejo tamiya and ammo by mig acrylics mostly and thin 50/50 or 1 to 1. My last spray session on a model tank I had to thin the paint so much that it pooled on my model and I had to re prime pre shade and base coat it.
Any suggestions?
I've never used either of those brands. My suggestion would be try adding a retarding additive to your paint (an example can be found here amzn.to/3pNrCP2 ). Adding a retarding agent will prolong the dry time and should reduce the tip dry in your dry climate. Follow the directions when it comes to mixing the retarding agent into your paint though. A little goes a long way. Something else you might try is adding a bit of spray gun or airbrush lube to the end of your needle before each paint session.
Thank you for you help.
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100% noob here Just got mine out for the first time today, watching your videos before I do anything, glad I have cause I would have made a mess and gave up
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Fantastic video!!! Thanks!!!!
Thank you!
Excellent video Trevor thanks 👍George in uk
Thank you George!
Thanks for the information., i an subscribed now
Thank you my friend!
Can you just mix the colors or do you need a mixing additive with createx?
A mix additive is beneficial under certain circumstances, most of the time it is not necessary though.
Why will the airbrush i just got not spray paint out if i dont have the nozzle cap taken off like u said in the part about the tip dry?? Soon as i put it back it sprays but if i take it off it only sprays air no paint no matter how far i pull back
Hi Nick! I'm not sure if you're talking about the nozzle cap or the needle cap. There are some airbrushes that won't spray paint with the needle cap removed. That's just the way they are designed. If you're talking about the needle cap, I suspect you own one of those airbrushes. Some airbrushes will spray paint with the nozzle cap removed; however, you'll get a stippled pattern compared to a finely atomized spray pattern. Most airbrushes nowadays won't spray anything with the nozzle cap removed though.
Thank you for the knowledge. =)
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My only problem is that I cannot adjust air pressure, I have a pressure around 20 psi and cannot adjust it, so I can only thin it to be able to airbrush it....
Hi Marco! I'll assume you cannot adjust air pressure because your compressor doesn't have a regulator. One option you do have is to purchase a MAC valve that attaches to your airbrush hose before it gets connected to your brush. The MAC valve will allow you some air pressure adjustment; however, it won't be as accurate as a regulator because the MAC valve doesn't have a pressure gauge. You will still be limited by the compressor as to how much pressure you can use. If about 20 psi is all your compressor can produce, you cannot adjust for more pressure without purchasing a better compressor.
When, despite of right cleaning, there are splashes? Can’t understand why and not be able to get right ratio.... may be still too thin? I started 7 to 3 thinner/paint and gradually added paint...I’m at the very beginning obviously 😊
What do you mean when you say "there are splashes"? Again, it's very difficult to diagnose the issue when I can't see what you're doing. If you can provide me with more information that will help.
@@wickedartstudio I keep trying...somehow I’m getting the way of balance paint/pressure/surface/distance... the issue was too slippery surface (dried acrylic painting) thank you. Your videos were very useful for me 👍😉
Whats temperature and humidity is your enviroment?
Temperature is pretty much always a constant because I work in a climate controlled environment. The temperature is normally somewhere between 68 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit. On average, the humidity where I'm located is above 50 percent year round. It gets very high during the spring and summer months.
As soon as you said there is no magic number I setteled down to watch the whole video
Thank you for watching!
Five to ten minutes to emulsify? I just started in airbrushing and didn't get much resolts. Maybe that is my problem. But I saw so much videos on it and it seems that no one does that.
It is not absolutely necessary to wait. You can spray the product immediately after adding reducer if you choose to do so. Based on my own experience, the paint does spray better when given ten minutes or so to acclimate and/or emulsify. That's especially true if using a spray gun rather than an airbrush. Water-based paint has a higher surface tension compared to a solvent based system. It takes a few minutes for the reducer to break down that surface tension in order for the paint and the reducer to meld together completely.
@@wickedartstudio maybe that why I have so much problems. I’m new and first I thought it was the airbrush. Then me. Also I have gummy problems. I thought it’s because I bought some at the dollar store, but at Michael’s too, they have paint that are gummy
@@chauffeurmarco Water-based paint does have a shelf life. That shelf life can be dramatically reduced if the paint is subjected to very cold temperatures during storage or transport. If the paint you have purchased is gummy, it's probably been on the shelf for a long time, or it hasn't been stored correctly before being placed on the shelf for sale. You might have better luck ordering your paint rather than purchasing it in store if that is the case.
@@wickedartstudio yeah, I realize that I'm better off ordering online. Hey, even at Michael’s their paint are gummy. If I can’t trust them, no way I’ll by at the dollar store or even at Walmart
Well done... helps me..peck
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