Oh boy! You have put so much work into that. It is masterful, you are becoming a fabricator of heroic levels. In all truthfulness, the labor you have put into it has far exceeded the value of that vehicle, had a regular shop been paid to do it.
Really enjoying this series. I’m sure it would be to costly to pay a shop for all the work but a dyi guy could breathe some economical life into a first car for a teenager.
Holy cow im surprised at how calm and cool you are going through most of this rear end repair. There were plenty of time I just went "NOPE" in this series of videos haha!
I hate rust so much. I live in ND and actually flew to Atlanta this year and bought an ‘06 V6 6-speed Accord sedan because I wanted an older Honda with absolutely no rust for once!
Nice job Eric!! I finally got tired of working with Ohio salt (the worst) sold my 250,000 mile MDX and bought a used Florida MDX!! I drive a beater in the crap, park the rust-free MDX and spray my Winter cars with a K-Coat oil-based solution to help prevent these miserable head-aches.
Saw the video pop up, saw it was 24min long. Thought to myself, how is this man going to make a bumper removal video 24min long? Rust.....that's all you need to say. Thank you for yet another entertaining and informative video!
Eric, with all practicality and honestly only a seasoned mechanic like you would touch that 17 years-old rusted out Honda Pilot to make videos for RUclips.....
Thank you for another great video! I have been watching this Pilot series videos and I feel that when you work on Honda/Acura, your experience kick in and you are enjoying this repair and sharing many valuable point to audience. Despite you said do not like SUV your self as you mentioned, that doesn't matter in terms of "taking care of the vehicle by you" as excellent automotive technician. I am exited to see the outcome, when you finished it with your HackHawk !
Your repair work is going really well. I can relate to what you are going through as I used to run an autobody repair shop in the Canadian rust belt with my father when I was growing up. It would be interesting to see a cost summary when this project has been completed so that anyone who has the skills and equipment to complete such repairs will have an idea of what it would cost to do this work. I have met people over the years that have decided to repair an older vehicle and were soon over their head cost wise and had no real choice but to keep going. Thank you for the video and I'm looking forward to the next one.
I do plan to post those numbers when I finish the mechanical work and before I install the supercharger. As it stands now, I'm way over what this thing is worth. I knew that would happen going in though. Thanks for your comment.
You need to get Benny "Mechanical Stig" from Mighty Car Mods, he seems to just walk by bumpers and they must be afraid of him or something because they just fall off the car when he grabs them.
@@ericthecarguy ruclips.net/video/MAZ1KHI_Y1g/видео.html Here is a good video about someone who did a similar job and you can see that after 5 years, the rust inhibitor did slow the rust down but it eventually came back. I myself did a similar job, he used one product, you used Eastwood chassis saver and I used Por-15 but really they are all similar products. I made sure to coat the painted surfaces with fluid film yearly and after 5 years, my coating is still perfect. If I would have left it untreated like that person in the video, it would have probably rusted through the same way. Using the chassis saver in combination with some wax/oil base undercoating is a must imo.
@@ericthecarguy Also in that video, he uses some Eastwood internal chassis saver and it performed the worse, unfortunately. It would had probably worked better if there was a rustproofing coating over it.
Eric, I am a new member of your channel, this awesome! I have an MDX that is otherwise in excellent condition with the identical problem. It runs awesome and really would hate to junk it. I am taking this on and am really glad you ran this series, thank you very much !
So interesting to view your skills and knowledge in action on such a cumbersome project. Not something that I would attempt but just an amazing accomplishment on your part to see how this is done. Thanks Mr. Eric...now go get those particles of rust off of you. 🔧 🔨
Eric, you can collect and remelt those pieces of iron oxide and get back solid iron......I think you should do a video putting those iron rust dust pieces in a ceramic bowl and burn it with an acetyline torch to melt those sucker to get back solid iron metal....That would be a great video to watch.....and I bet you would get lots of viewers...
On my 2008 Honda pilot I replaced my bumper about a month ago, exact same issue, and process. though I didn't have as much rust on the body the bumber was GONE! The Foam piece on mine was split into two, and was not in the correct place. When fixing the foam piece and installing the bumper I noticed how sound my plastic bumper is, no longer flexes. I believe the foam was put there to support the plastic bumper. I sanded the surface rust found in various areas of the bumper attachment and put a few coats of rustoleum primer. I will return in springtime to check my work and recoat if necessary any areas I may have missed. I do have another issue, there's a rattle coming from the back and I believe it's the suspension but not 100% sure. The noise only occurs when the driver's side rear wheel hits a few bumps, and theres a rattle coming from that direction. With the car on the lift i can't seem to locate the source, any ideas?
If it’s a rattle on one wheel during a bump I would think about replacing 1) the sway bar link and 2) bushing for that wheel. Obviously more easily said than done.
You should get a set of long drills. Very useful in the shop. Two sizes i personally find really useful 15 cm shank (it's normal length + 15) and the 30 cm shank ones.
Hi Eric. I own a Vw Polo Gt Tdi 1.6, my car has been throwing a 00538 reference Voltage-Open Circuit error in Central Electronics and even the air conditioner has been getting cut off randomly. I had sent the car to VW workshop to fix the said code and they checked the Climatronic, BCM, Reference Voltage Fuse and wiring and they all were fine, but still the scanner was flashing 00538 error, after which the master technician hooked a battery charger to the battery and erased the code and it didn't appear again, which it used to after turning the ignition off and then on. The Technician said that it is a bad alternator, but then the battery voltage is at 12.8 when the car is off and when the car is turned on without A/c. it shows 13.9-14 and when the A/c is turned on it shows 13.78. There's no issue with starting the car, no battery icon on instrument cluster, nothing, but the fault code won't go.
Can you make a video about why rust spreads so quickly as well as battery corrosion. Every Ford I've ever owned has had terrible battery corrosion on various brands of batteries.
You should take a look at your welder when you get some time......... Mine quit working also, and it ended up being just the switch--- Mine had a big power on/off switch on the back of the welder--- and the contacts welded themselves together; It had crimp connectors on the wire and looked a little burnt-- so I cleaned them up and crimped them a little tighter and just followed those wires to where they connected on the circuit board (which also just had crimp connectors) and connected my plug wires directly to the board, bypassing the switch-- and it works great again.... It just comes on when I plug it in now. (but if I'm plugging it in, Its because I'm about to use it. lol)----- I could put a little box on the cord itself and put a regular light switch on the line; likely an upgrade coming................ My point is, don't give up on that welder so easy-- it's likely something simple..... Maybe your's connects to a relay switch on the inside and you'll just have to bypass that relay-- or order a new one. ect.. Could be a bad cord too-- plug it in and check your incoming power at the switch, ect.. Some cords will have a little fuse right there in your plug-- at the prongs. Just look at everything and see if it's obvious; because it likely is-- It's worth 10 minutes of investigating at the very least.... and then you'll have two welders. lol.... I have four, so I've been there.
Mine just had a bad switch. I ordered a replacement, but Eastwood sent me one of their 140 welders and I love it. I'll probably load this one up with flux core and replace the trigger and give it to my grandson.
When you dropped the entire rear end to redo the suspension and fix the frame, did you worry about the car being too heavy on the front end and falling off the lift?
I'm guessing the rust around the rear bumper is caused by snow getting packed up in there. What if you filled the nooks and crannies underneath there with expanding foam. Would that help keep the snow out?
Likely caused by the salt water leaking down under that black part on the top of the bumper, where the penny was. Also, whatever gets up in there, won't be coming out anytime soon unless you wash it out.
for too many redundant bolts and screws on bumper. I think you should did the top 2 and side butt up pieces but only the one in the middle under the back. rust is always a pain
I’m pulling a brain fart and maybe you can tell me since replacing my automatic transmission in my CRV I seem to have more vibrations I’m just wondering if there’s a proper way and when and how I don’t know why I missed this but to adjust the motor mounts I’m thinking about tackling it tomorrow or rather later on today
My left tail lamp had the same failure. Those lamps were recalled. I contacted American Honda just to see if the recall was still active. NOPE I got a pair of updated lamps from Pick-n-Pull.
Hi, i have honda whit k20 engine can u help me whit my problem? I change my belt tensioner pulley i cant tighten the pulley bolt, becouse the tensioner starts moving when im tighten the pulley bolt.
Eric ,I had the same welder from Longevity. It quit after 5 months. Longevity would not even return my calls. A letter to them did not bear any fruit. Screw Longevity.. I now have a Lincoln Pro Mig 140 and it is holding up well. I now have had it well over three years. I would like to hear about the replacement. Ken
Funny you should mention that. This welder broke shortly after this video was shot. It just needs a new trigger hose, but ended up replacing it with an Eastwood 140 and I love it.
@@ericthecarguy I have dealt with Eastwood also. I purchased the tubing bender. BTW, I have been a subscriber since you were under ground, or in the garage under the dwelling. Lots of great information from that place.
Eric, thanks for the details of the bumper replacement. Aside note, what happened to an old video of the timing belt you did on J-series V6 Honda a while back----like 10-12 years ago? I really like that OLD video....Did you take it down because I could not find it?
Eric my brother from another mother, hope you and the family all well 🙂. Another great, very educational video, thanks man 🙂. Eric, would you say it's a good idea to leave the rear "wheel arch lip rubbers" installed that usually come on many Honda's including the 1996-2000 Honda Civic. Some people say they hold moisture and mud, etc underneath them rusting the metal arch lip underneath, wondered what your thoughts are regarding this bro? Regards, Mike in England 🙂
It's amazing how a vehicle that looks so far gone can be saved! A true testament to your dedication.
Still the #1 car guy; still the best on RUclips. 👌
Thank you! Good to see you. I hope you're doing well.
Oh boy! You have put so much work into that. It is masterful, you are becoming a fabricator of heroic levels. In all truthfulness, the labor you have put into it has far exceeded the value of that vehicle, had a regular shop been paid to do it.
I agree. Thanks for the comment.
Like my old man always said, it can’t be stuck if it’s liquid. The gas axe is a very useful tool on old rusty fasteners.
Really enjoying this series. I’m sure it would be to costly to pay a shop for all the work but a dyi guy could breathe some economical life into a first car for a teenager.
Holy cow im surprised at how calm and cool you are going through most of this rear end repair. There were plenty of time I just went "NOPE" in this series of videos haha!
I hate rust so much. I live in ND and actually flew to Atlanta this year and bought an ‘06 V6 6-speed Accord sedan because I wanted an older Honda with absolutely no rust for once!
Nice job Eric!!
I finally got tired of working with Ohio salt (the worst) sold my 250,000 mile MDX and bought a used Florida MDX!!
I drive a beater in the crap, park the rust-free MDX and spray my Winter cars with a K-Coat oil-based solution to help prevent these miserable head-aches.
To further minimize rust, remove the black rubber trim around the rear wheel arch.....they're know to trap moisture... STay Rust Free!!
Saw the video pop up, saw it was 24min long. Thought to myself, how is this man going to make a bumper removal video 24min long? Rust.....that's all you need to say. Thank you for yet another entertaining and informative video!
Eric, with all practicality and honestly only a seasoned mechanic like you would touch that 17 years-old rusted out Honda Pilot to make videos for RUclips.....
It's not a bad way to make a living really. So long as folks are watching the videos.
@@ericthecarguy Ok. Will continue to watch your videos.
Videos from this series make me so happy that I traded off my 2003 highlander. Loving my outback!
My 2007 pilot have the exact same issue. You did an amazing job on this Pilot.
Would be good to see a video a year from now (assuming you still own the car) to see how well the rust inhibitor inhibited.
This thing turned out great. Pretty good looking little SUV all cleaned up. Has to be extremely rewarding!
Great job Eric! Like I've said before, everytime u get in it/drive it, u will REALLY appreciate ur vehicle! Looks SO NICE!
that element is lucky to have that work done to it
it's a pilot
The rust repair was seriously impressive
Wow, Honda really didn’t want that bumper cover to come off!
What great timing on this video. Shut the tailgate on my '06 Ridgeline last week and had an approx. 4 inch piece of metal fall on the ground. Whoops!
15:10 - This is some real advice, thank you Eric!
Rusty bumper was my nickname in high school.
Oof, at least it wasnt rusty nuts...
@@RexenPrime or trombone 😆
Mine was "Eric from hell"
Excellent video Eric. Really loving the Pilot series!!
Ah, the typical quick "While I am in there" kinda deal. Been there, done that. ;-)
Would love to see an EricTheCarGuy 96-00 Civic manual swap!
Thank you for another great video! I have been watching this Pilot series videos and I feel that when you work on Honda/Acura, your experience kick in and you are enjoying this repair and sharing many valuable point to audience. Despite you said do not like SUV your self as you mentioned, that doesn't matter in terms of "taking care of the vehicle by you" as excellent automotive technician. I am exited to see the outcome, when you finished it with your HackHawk !
Thank you!
Your repair work is going really well. I can relate to what you are going through as I used to run an autobody repair shop in the Canadian rust belt with my father when I was growing up. It would be interesting to see a cost summary when this project has been completed so that anyone who has the skills and equipment to complete such repairs will have an idea of what it would cost to do this work. I have met people over the years that have decided to repair an older vehicle and were soon over their head cost wise and had no real choice but to keep going. Thank you for the video and I'm looking forward to the next one.
I do plan to post those numbers when I finish the mechanical work and before I install the supercharger. As it stands now, I'm way over what this thing is worth. I knew that would happen going in though. Thanks for your comment.
@@ericthecarguy Isn't it always that way ? BUT AT LEAST YOU KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE NOW.
You need to get Benny "Mechanical Stig" from Mighty Car Mods, he seems to just walk by bumpers and they must be afraid of him or something because they just fall off the car when he grabs them.
Great job Eric. Be sure to look into rust proofing, I recommend fluid film and yearly applications, be sure to protect your hard work.
Bar and chain oil, plus a dusty road. Permanent rust proof barrier. The thicker, the better.
I've used this in the past. ruclips.net/video/djuSxYI6UbE/видео.html
However I want to see how the rust encapsulator works out on this vehicle.
@@ericthecarguy ruclips.net/video/MAZ1KHI_Y1g/видео.html Here is a good video about someone who did a similar job and you can see that after 5 years, the rust inhibitor did slow the rust down but it eventually came back. I myself did a similar job, he used one product, you used Eastwood chassis saver and I used Por-15 but really they are all similar products. I made sure to coat the painted surfaces with fluid film yearly and after 5 years, my coating is still perfect. If I would have left it untreated like that person in the video, it would have probably rusted through the same way. Using the chassis saver in combination with some wax/oil base undercoating is a must imo.
@@ericthecarguy Also in that video, he uses some Eastwood internal chassis saver and it performed the worse, unfortunately. It would had probably worked better if there was a rustproofing coating over it.
Here in the UK Honda Pilots were an off road buggy thing from the 90's :)
I love it! saved this thing from the scrapyard
Eric, I am a new member of your channel, this awesome! I have an MDX that is otherwise in excellent condition with the identical problem. It runs awesome and really would hate to junk it.
I am taking this on and am really glad you ran this series, thank you very much !
Thanks my son also owns an 04. Can’t wait 👍
So interesting to view your skills and knowledge in action on such a cumbersome project. Not something that I would attempt but just an amazing accomplishment on your part to see how this is done. Thanks Mr. Eric...now go get those particles of rust off of you. 🔧 🔨
Thank you!
Eric, you can collect and remelt those pieces of iron oxide and get back solid iron......I think you should do a video putting those iron rust dust pieces in a ceramic bowl and burn it with an acetyline torch to melt those sucker to get back solid iron metal....That would be a great video to watch.....and I bet you would get lots of viewers...
Eric,
It was nice meeting you in person at Import Alliance here in ATL! Thanks for the shirt!
It was great meeting you too! And you're welcome.
Great video Eric. Thanks for posting.
I have an 06 pilot with 250k on it… one tap and all the rust just falls from the bumper. Crazy
"Man glitter"... You're so fabulous!
I don't always cross-thread bolts, but when I do, I run 'em down *really* tight with an impact wrench. ;-)
On my 2008 Honda pilot I replaced my bumper about a month ago, exact same issue, and process. though I didn't have as much rust on the body the bumber was GONE! The Foam piece on mine was split into two, and was not in the correct place. When fixing the foam piece and installing the bumper I noticed how sound my plastic bumper is, no longer flexes. I believe the foam was put there to support the plastic bumper. I sanded the surface rust found in various areas of the bumper attachment and put a few coats of rustoleum primer. I will return in springtime to check my work and recoat if necessary any areas I may have missed. I do have another issue, there's a rattle coming from the back and I believe it's the suspension but not 100% sure. The noise only occurs when the driver's side rear wheel hits a few bumps, and theres a rattle coming from that direction. With the car on the lift i can't seem to locate the source, any ideas?
If it’s a rattle on one wheel during a bump I would think about replacing 1) the sway bar link and 2) bushing for that wheel. Obviously more easily said than done.
You might find this helpful. www.ericthecarguy.com/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car/
Cool idea with that welded-in captive nut for the tow hitch
Thank you for sharing your rust videos enjoy watching I am from South Africa
Thank you! Great to see you as always.
Well done Erick another good job
Have fun, stay dirty, have a good weekend🔥🔥
Enjoying the series!
You should get a set of long drills. Very useful in the shop. Two sizes i personally find really useful 15 cm shank (it's normal length + 15) and the 30 cm shank ones.
I have one that I've used for cleaning EGR passages on old Accords. Didn't think to use it though. Thanks for the suggestion.
From 5:58 all the way until 10:18 is The harsh reality of being a Mechanic... oh I’m sorry.I mean an automotive technician.
Great result Eric, thanks for sharing that was enjoyable.
to top off the rear job, i'd like to see a rear view camera installed for added safety
Eric I need pretty much all you did on this car is my problem I would like to find out if is worth it to fix .
Looks awesome Eric. Good job👍
Hi Eric. I own a Vw Polo Gt Tdi 1.6, my car has been throwing a 00538 reference Voltage-Open Circuit error in Central Electronics and even the air conditioner has been getting cut off randomly. I had sent the car to VW workshop to fix the said code and they checked the Climatronic, BCM, Reference Voltage Fuse and wiring and they all were fine, but still the scanner was flashing 00538 error, after which the master technician hooked a battery charger to the battery and erased the code and it didn't appear again, which it used to after turning the ignition off and then on. The Technician said that it is a bad alternator, but then the battery voltage is at 12.8 when the car is off and when the car is turned on without A/c. it shows 13.9-14 and when the A/c is turned on it shows 13.78. There's no issue with starting the car, no battery icon on instrument cluster, nothing, but the fault code won't go.
Can you make a video about why rust spreads so quickly as well as battery corrosion. Every Ford I've ever owned has had terrible battery corrosion on various brands of batteries.
2:40 Well, Eric's pull out game is strong! 🤣
That's debatable. I do have a 12 year old grandson.
@@ericthecarguy LOL!
You do terrific work. This was a great video.
Boy am I glad I live on the west coast lol
Good job Eric keep it up
People who work on cars in southern states have NO IDEA what rust belt cars are like! We are spoiled!
What an amazing difference, it looks like a different car now.
I laughed at the jumping lense as well :-D
Yea, it's coming along. Nice to see you. I hope you and family are well.
Whenever I watch rust repair i think about dentistry. The work looks so similar.
It just needs some rust eze medicated bumper ointment
You should take a look at your welder when you get some time......... Mine quit working also, and it ended up being just the switch--- Mine had a big power on/off switch on the back of the welder--- and the contacts welded themselves together; It had crimp connectors on the wire and looked a little burnt-- so I cleaned them up and crimped them a little tighter and just followed those wires to where they connected on the circuit board (which also just had crimp connectors) and connected my plug wires directly to the board, bypassing the switch-- and it works great again.... It just comes on when I plug it in now. (but if I'm plugging it in, Its because I'm about to use it. lol)----- I could put a little box on the cord itself and put a regular light switch on the line; likely an upgrade coming................ My point is, don't give up on that welder so easy-- it's likely something simple..... Maybe your's connects to a relay switch on the inside and you'll just have to bypass that relay-- or order a new one. ect.. Could be a bad cord too-- plug it in and check your incoming power at the switch, ect.. Some cords will have a little fuse right there in your plug-- at the prongs. Just look at everything and see if it's obvious; because it likely is-- It's worth 10 minutes of investigating at the very least.... and then you'll have two welders. lol.... I have four, so I've been there.
Mine just had a bad switch. I ordered a replacement, but Eastwood sent me one of their 140 welders and I love it. I'll probably load this one up with flux core and replace the trigger and give it to my grandson.
This Pilot’s nickname should be “Pile-of”
Is possible to fix the bin where the broken Bolt was ?
Funny at 4:39. Also: pearl of wisdom at 6:43.
Felt like I watched back to the pilot part 2. Time travel, this is heavy!
Hey I have a 2008 Acura TL with 110k miles and I want to change the ATF but it’s never been changed, is it safe to?
How to have a fun day: use a die grinder wearing sandals!
When you dropped the entire rear end to redo the suspension and fix the frame, did you worry about the car being too heavy on the front end and falling off the lift?
I actually talked about that in the video.
@@ericthecarguy I must have missed it. I'll go back and rewatch. Love these videos!
My 07 pilot with almost 220000 miles on it has the same and even worst rust problems. North NY state suv...
I'm guessing the rust around the rear bumper is caused by snow getting packed up in there. What if you filled the nooks and crannies underneath there with expanding foam. Would that help keep the snow out?
It would probably keep moisture in and rust it out faster to be honest. However soaking it in oil would help
Likely caused by the salt water leaking down under that black part on the top of the bumper, where the penny was. Also, whatever gets up in there, won't be coming out anytime soon unless you wash it out.
for too many redundant bolts and screws on bumper. I think you should did the top 2 and side butt up pieces but only the one in the middle under the back. rust is always a pain
I see you have a aisin timing belt kit in the trunk, will you be doing a video on that?
Much love brother I hope you have a fabulous weekend
Thank you! You too.
I’m pulling a brain fart and maybe you can tell me since replacing my automatic transmission in my CRV I seem to have more vibrations I’m just wondering if there’s a proper way and when and how I don’t know why I missed this but to adjust the motor mounts I’m thinking about tackling it tomorrow or rather later on today
Salt is one heck of a drug
My left tail lamp had the same failure. Those lamps were recalled.
I contacted American Honda just to see if the recall was still active. NOPE
I got a pair of updated lamps from Pick-n-Pull.
Hi eric,after you replaced the beam metal are you able to show the alignment the rear wheel or the shocks area?
Not sure exactly what you're asking. I do plan to get an alignment after I complete the work on the front suspension.
Hi, i have honda whit k20 engine can u help me whit my problem? I change my belt tensioner pulley i cant tighten the pulley bolt, becouse the tensioner starts moving when im tighten the pulley bolt.
Eric ,I had the same welder from Longevity. It quit after 5 months. Longevity would not even return my calls. A letter to them did not bear any fruit. Screw Longevity.. I now have a Lincoln Pro Mig 140 and it is holding up well. I now have had it well over three years. I would like to hear about the replacement. Ken
Funny you should mention that. This welder broke shortly after this video was shot. It just needs a new trigger hose, but ended up replacing it with an Eastwood 140 and I love it.
@@ericthecarguy I have dealt with Eastwood also. I purchased the tubing bender. BTW, I have been a subscriber since you were under ground, or in the garage under the dwelling. Lots of great information from that place.
Where did you order the rear bumper steel frame
what happend to the factory five cobra project
Ericthebumperguy
Eric, thanks for the details of the bumper replacement.
Aside note, what happened to an old video of the timing belt you did on J-series V6 Honda a while back----like 10-12 years ago? I really like that OLD video....Did you take it down because I could not find it?
No, I don't recall taking any videos like that down.
Thank you, I was running out of cus words.
Even by UK standards, the rust for a vehicle that age is extreme.
Looks like its been in the sea towing boats.
Whole lot of rust it will buff out lmfao 😂 🤣 😆 Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Eric my brother from another mother, hope you and the family all well 🙂. Another great, very educational video, thanks man 🙂.
Eric, would you say it's a good idea to leave the rear "wheel arch lip rubbers" installed that usually come on many Honda's including the 1996-2000 Honda Civic. Some people say they hold moisture and mud, etc underneath them rusting the metal arch lip underneath, wondered what your thoughts are regarding this bro? Regards, Mike in England 🙂
Remove them. They promote rust.
Good old Rusty Bumper. I knew him well
11:35 felt a strange sensation like I got something in my eye after that thing dropped onto the floor.
great video my friend
Look like fun
And also that is ex, lx or ex-l?
If you want to see true rust check out any Toyota undercarriage in the rust belt regions.....Toyota takes FIRST place for that...
Where about in WNY are you located? I never knew you were in WNY, I’d love to have you work on some of my toys!
Lived in Florida my whole life, are all vehicles THAT rusty up north from salted roads?
Many of them are, yes.
Eric, how much time and cost do you figure you have invested in the rear suspension and rear fascia?
I'd put all this work around $4500. The rust repair, and all of the new Honda suspension parts.
Eric, what is the market value ($) of that car? Is it worth it with all the labor and parts you put in?
Not at all.
@@ericthecarguy LMAO.
Eric, would a needle scaler help clean up some of that rust?
Probably.
You must really like this pilot.😏