Here’s a suggestion for another feature of your cradle cart; weld some small c channels on the bottom so you can slide in a catch pan in that open middle space for those extra leaky engines and transmissions.
The good/bad of having a welder -- one spends more time making tools than actually using them... I got sick and tired of buying cheap plastic snow shovels. So, a neighbor was throwing out an old hot water heater which I cut up the tank metal for heavy-gauge sheet steel and MIG'd up a real man's snow shovel. The thing will last a couple of lifetimes. I put adjustable gibs on my 20 ton cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic press. It's now a precision pressing implement. The ram does not rattle side-to-side at all.
I have a Kent-Moore J-39580, which is basically the same kind of cart but with adjustable arms. It's pretty sweet, but it'll also set you back almost $2,000.
Awesome Eric!.......I'm going to build upon this idea. Use two of the HF floor jack cross beams. They are like $50 before coupons. Weld them up with the tubing long ways. Now it telescopes from 28 to 37 inches wide. The cross beams have a working limit of 2 tons each. Install casters....done. Thanks for the inspiration!
DOM tubing also doesn't have the inside weld seam, making it better for telescoping and rolling applications. Another great video, like about every one you've produced that I've ever watched. Great channel for those of us wrenching our own or our friends' rides because of the variety, depth, and "watch out for this" notes!
For anyone removing an engine and trans in one for the first time on a lift make sure the rear of the car is supported or the front is tied down to the lift, seen too many people remove that weight from the front and forget how much the balance can change towards the rear. i made one of these for my engine and trans (1970's skoda) i made the base wider than needed so it fit into the engine hoist, i made the uprights for the pads like those on the car lift so they could be adjustable for distance and shifting the center of balance because some engines have a lean to them when in the car. another nice addition was to allow a trolly jack access by having a removable 4th frame bar so the base is a C for a while incase i need to jack the lump from underneath, mostly use that on the front end suspension sub axle assembly (my cars are rear engine) great build, i'm sure we can look forward to the 'lump cart' modifications as you find new stuff to do to it adaptability in the frame and arms is the key with this heavy helpers
I built one out of furniture dollies when I had to put the motor and transmission back into my 4th Gen camaro. Made life so much easier. Put the motor on the crossmember bolted up all the accessories and bolted up the transmission then did the harness. I then hooked up my engine lift to the body of the camaro and rolled the motor and crossmember and entire front suspension under it and bolted it all back together.
I loved the whole idea and enjoyed the sprinklings of serendipity. 18:25 you don't normally get out of synch but the video cut lagging the audio cut really made me jump.
Okay so it's official!!! I am BUYING A 2004 HONDA PILOT EX-L!!! I couldn't be more excited for the purchase ($500 with bad transmission, go figure lmfao)! Along the way, I will be replicating this cart, with the exception that I will probably add the extra half inch on the width and use the 90 degree hold downs to make sure they're level. After I'm done, I'll prolly sell it for twice the price (or more) to recoup my spent money on it. Thank you Eric, as always for all you do!
Nice design and well executed. I'd be inclined to put some gussets in the corners of the main frame for extra stiffness and also 2 on each of your stand off tubes. If you tacked them tubes on square then added a gussets on the front and side of each of them before you welded it all up they would of stayed square. Only thing it needs though is a coat of paint and it's done.
Hi Eric, hold the welding gun over the weld a few more seconds until the gas stops flowing this will prevent a hole from forming in the weld and keep the oxygen away until it has cooled down a bit. Greetings from Poland.
Hey Eric, ive bee subscribed to your channel over a year now and i can't say enough how much enjoy and alwats look forward to your fridat videos. Thank you for all you do and continue to do. I can't wait for the future of ETCG after the move!!
@@eflanagan1921 I hear that! I've been using lawnmower blades to build things around here, lol. I just wish I hadn't scrapped a bunch of them a few years back. I had hundreds.
It is now time to modify the engine hoist legs or the engine stand legs so that they can roll one into the other safely. Remember that mini engine accident? ;) Very nice work, and be safe!
Eric the car guys become design engineer..... Awesome product!!!!!!! Please start manufacturing these. Am definitely interested in getting one. but also make some for the Honda Accord. Bro am definitely will buy one. Am pretty sure there are many guys/girls out there who will buy these
When cutting stock to length and you need multiples of the same length; measure from the outside of the saw blade out along the bench using a straight edge then stick a welding magnet at that location (also make a mark there in case the magnet moves). This way you can butt the stock against the magnet and make repeatable cuts. I like this project it looks like it will be handy.
What a great video and explanation! Planning is crucial using the best materials which you did flawlessly. Terrific Mr Eric, yet again. Thank you very much for ALL you do and share with your base!!! 🤩
not long ago I made a similar setup for this exact purpose. I work on a lot of the 03-07 accords and other newish hondas that have the similar front subframes. Essentially it’s just a harbor freight engine stand with the upper part of the stand removed so it’s just a little roller cart and a flat sheet of metal tacked to the top of it so the cradle can sit flat on it. definitely a game changer 👌 the adjustable lift pedestals are a great idea though I may have to integrate those onto my rig soon 🤔
Excellent Eric. More tools for the arsenal . I got the Harbor Fright blue wide liftmaster deck for motor cycles . Ok for a transmission or light motor. 400 lbs max . But yours is a beauty heavy duty 👍 about $130 . From Hrdor fright for my little one .
Eric.. if you are wanting to ensure it stays true laterally... I'd running a pair of threaded rods with washers and a set of 6 nuts for each rod to create a tension and locking mechanism.
I would like to see a tool (contraption) to lift some of those heavy tires just enought to be able to install on the lugs. Because sometimes is hard to get the to align the holes to the studs, and is a pain in the back literally due to the wight of those tires including the rims.
Non-welder here, however you could cut up some triangles and put a gusset on each beam to the vertical tube which would increase stability and safety, Also, for the end that you wanted wider, pull the pads out, and take run a piece of that 3" square stock along that end. Cut a several holes on each side and you now have something a bit more adjustable to the work at hand.
If you do end up making swivel arms on this. I would advise to put 2 or 3 Inch triangle gussets on those round tubes--- just to make them much stronger, and keep them from bending sideways. I like this setup. When you do put adjustable arms on those pipes, just make sure they are tall enough to swing around above your engine hoist legs so they don't run into it; Also, I would make the pivoting arms short enough so that you can still swing them towards the middle if a single/ center point is needed-- and then it will be a super tool, adjustable to be used on just about anything. Cool stuff.
Seems like the round DOM tubes could've been extended to the casters and connected via a base plate. Then the tubes could've been connected to eachother with a much smaller tubing. As much, if not all, of the load is being carried thru the tubes to the casters. Might be much lighter and cheaper. Either way, nice build. Thanks for sharing!
Each time I watch this video (it's not as many as the others, trust me...but it's still over ten times 😂🤣😂), I am amazed with how awesome that cart is. As I settle down and prepare to build my own home n shop, I fully expect myself to build one just like that! Thank you again for posting this video, Eric; your innovation and creativity is so cool. :-) Ps, I miss seeing new content here, and really hope you have a new location to move into/build soon!!! Pss, if you do end up having a new shop constructed, can you record the daily/weekly progress so that all of us can see it grow from nothing and into a completed, ready to work in shop?? I think that would be sick! =D
You could also make or have someone with a lathe turn you four double ended center shouldered pins and stack a second DOM tube if you ever needed the rig to be higher or just higher on one end. You could also make different supports to fit the tubes, bolt on or cradle style.
I finally finished watching this. Nice job. Any footage of getting it out of the car? Also, this only seems practical if you have a lift? Not so much for someone without.
Like very much the project, as well as the saw, this saw throws almost no sparks, really neat. The only thing I would change is the bolt and nuts orientation, you dont need to insert nuts into the square hole, just insert the bolts on the inside, then put the nuts on the bottom (external) side, it makes install/uninstall a lot easier and practical.
Hydraulic table used to work great on Ford Aerostars, but those bolts came out of the top. As an retired Honda tech, it wasn't all that easy dropping the cradle.
That J cut transition at 18:28 where the saw sound started while you were still marking the pipe was just a bit anxiety inducing! 😂
Here’s a suggestion for another feature of your cradle cart; weld some small c channels on the bottom so you can slide in a catch pan in that open middle space for those extra leaky engines and transmissions.
Great idea!
The good/bad of having a welder -- one spends more time making tools than actually using them...
I got sick and tired of buying cheap plastic snow shovels. So, a neighbor was throwing out an old hot water heater which I cut up the tank metal for heavy-gauge sheet steel and MIG'd up a real man's snow shovel.
The thing will last a couple of lifetimes.
I put adjustable gibs on my 20 ton cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic press. It's now a precision pressing implement. The ram does not rattle side-to-side at all.
I have a Kent-Moore J-39580, which is basically the same kind of cart but with adjustable arms. It's pretty sweet, but it'll also set you back almost $2,000.
Eric said previously that this cost $500 and now I see why. I does not include his "labour".
Awesome Eric!.......I'm going to build upon this idea. Use two of the HF floor jack cross beams. They are like $50 before coupons. Weld them up with the tubing long ways. Now it telescopes from 28 to 37 inches wide. The cross beams have a working limit of 2 tons each. Install casters....done. Thanks for the inspiration!
Fit for purpose is the "measuring rod". That build IS fit for purpose. Thumbs up!
DOM tubing also doesn't have the inside weld seam, making it better for telescoping and rolling applications. Another great video, like about every one you've produced that I've ever watched. Great channel for those of us wrenching our own or our friends' rides because of the variety, depth, and "watch out for this" notes!
Thank you!
@@ericthecarguy
any chance to sell the in chrismas for cheap
For anyone removing an engine and trans in one for the first time on a lift make sure the rear of the car is supported or the front is tied down to the lift, seen too many people remove that weight from the front and forget how much the balance can change towards the rear.
i made one of these for my engine and trans (1970's skoda) i made the base wider than needed so it fit into the engine hoist, i made the uprights for the pads like those on the car lift so they could be adjustable for distance and shifting the center of balance because some engines have a lean to them when in the car.
another nice addition was to allow a trolly jack access by having a removable 4th frame bar so the base is a C for a while incase i need to jack the lump from underneath, mostly use that on the front end suspension sub axle assembly (my cars are rear engine)
great build, i'm sure we can look forward to the 'lump cart' modifications as you find new stuff to do to it
adaptability in the frame and arms is the key with this heavy helpers
Great tip about the potential imbalance after front sub-frame/drive-train removal
Fantastic bit of kit for a few hundred dollars, but seriously - $5000! Who on earth would pay that much? Still the best on RUclips. 🚘🔧☺
German car repair shops. It seems you have to remove the powertrain to do anything on those things. Always great to see you .
Hey Eric, add gussets at the vertical posts for extra safety. Also, just give the casters a few tacks to the frame members. Nice rig!
That's a great idea, a little bit more work for a lot more strength.
I thought the same re gussets
Exactly
Tools and parts fabrication is definitely the pinnacle of DIY. Hoping i can do those someday
I built one out of furniture dollies when I had to put the motor and transmission back into my 4th Gen camaro. Made life so much easier. Put the motor on the crossmember bolted up all the accessories and bolted up the transmission then did the harness. I then hooked up my engine lift to the body of the camaro and rolled the motor and crossmember and entire front suspension under it and bolted it all back together.
Great job, Eric! You need some of those 90-degree magnets that hold the metal together for you at exactly the right angle. Makes life easy.
You’re welding skills have greatly improved! Very nice!
Hey Eric Miss seeing your video this morning I hope everything is okay , thank for all the videos it really makes our day
I loved the whole idea and enjoyed the sprinklings of serendipity.
18:25 you don't normally get out of synch but the video cut lagging the audio cut really made me jump.
I gotta say Eric, your welding skills have come a long way since you first started 👍 those welds look beautiful, awesome job man 😊
Needs to bump juice up a bit. Cool project
You building thngs is a real joy to watch!
Good to see everything worked out so nice.
Okay so it's official!!! I am BUYING A 2004 HONDA PILOT EX-L!!! I couldn't be more excited for the purchase ($500 with bad transmission, go figure lmfao)! Along the way, I will be replicating this cart, with the exception that I will probably add the extra half inch on the width and use the 90 degree hold downs to make sure they're level. After I'm done, I'll prolly sell it for twice the price (or more) to recoup my spent money on it. Thank you Eric, as always for all you do!
Top job Eric. You are one of my favourite YT mechanics and being a tradesman Mechanic myself I always learn something from you. Kudos Man
Thank you!
Thanks for the idea and instructions. I built one for the engine removal from my wife’s Traverse. Also my sons V8 GXP.
Looks well thought out, not only in just only design but future versatility.
This video will be a hit for sure
Nice design and well executed. I'd be inclined to put some gussets in the corners of the main frame for extra stiffness and also 2 on each of your stand off tubes. If you tacked them tubes on square then added a gussets on the front and side of each of them before you welded it all up they would of stayed square. Only thing it needs though is a coat of paint and it's done.
Hi Eric, hold the welding gun over the weld a few more seconds until the gas stops flowing this will prevent a hole from forming in the weld and keep the oxygen away until it has cooled down a bit. Greetings from Poland.
Hey Eric, ive bee subscribed to your channel over a year now and i can't say enough how much enjoy and alwats look forward to your fridat videos. Thank you for all you do and continue to do. I can't wait for the future of ETCG after the move!!
Thank you!
I have to say also that I really enjoy these fabrication type videos. Keep being awesome Eric 🤙😉
Very nice EC!!! Thumbs up, and those welds look pretty good, seriously, compared to years ago you my friend HAVE Leveled Up!!!
Nice work, man! That thing is pretty slick! I can't get over how much materials cost today. It's insane.
Near future projects will be sending me to metal scrap yard!
@@eflanagan1921 I hear that! I've been using lawnmower blades to build things around here, lol. I just wish I hadn't scrapped a bunch of them a few years back. I had hundreds.
Eric you need a welding table in your new shop. As usual another great video.
Hope you and the family had an amazing Thanksgiving Eric happy Friday and sweet video @EricTheCarGuy
Thank you! I hope you and family had a great Thanksgiving as well.
@@ericthecarguy we did indeed thanks Eric and the cart came out sweet
You should weld some 1 inch square tubing to the posts on-top to strengthen up is there is side pressure
Thank you Eric love watching you making your new cart I am watching from South Africa
That is sweet. So many cars need to be dropped like that. Factories put them in like that.. Nice vid. Nice homemade life easier tool.
It is now time to modify the engine hoist legs or the engine stand legs so that they can roll one into the other safely. Remember that mini engine accident? ;) Very nice work, and be safe!
Nice rig Eric, your turning into a dang good welder!
Excellent subframe platform! Very simple yet effective, will get the job done quite nicely.
Thanks for the cool video!😎👍
Eric the car guys become design engineer..... Awesome product!!!!!!! Please start manufacturing these. Am definitely interested in getting one. but also make some for the Honda Accord. Bro am definitely will buy one. Am pretty sure there are many guys/girls out there who will buy these
When cutting stock to length and you need multiples of the same length; measure from the outside of the saw blade out along the bench using a straight edge then stick a welding magnet at that location (also make a mark there in case the magnet moves). This way you can butt the stock against the magnet and make repeatable cuts. I like this project it looks like it will be handy.
Yeh man ! Looks very nice ...definitely gotta clamp stuff down when welding to keep things square..Heat pulls on stuff. Stay dirty !! 🔧
You can also weld on more tubing around the main tubing for your uprights which would give you other locations to move your upright
What a great video and explanation! Planning is crucial using the best materials which you did flawlessly. Terrific Mr Eric, yet again. Thank you very much for ALL you do and share with your base!!! 🤩
Thank you!
That's Boyd Coddington style now ! 🥃
I like it! Just needs some paint to keep the rust away
Fantastic engine cradle platform I love it
Awesome job Eric. Thanks for sharing with us!
Awesome money saving idea. Like you were saying with adapters, you could just add some tubing across to go wider.
90 angle magnets work beautifully when welding square metal!
Honestly, i so much love your videos.
Nice work Eric
not long ago I made a similar setup for this exact purpose. I work on a lot of the 03-07 accords and other newish hondas that have the similar front subframes. Essentially it’s just a harbor freight engine stand with the upper part of the stand removed so it’s just a little roller cart and a flat sheet of metal tacked to the top of it so the cradle can sit flat on it. definitely a game changer 👌 the adjustable lift pedestals are a great idea though I may have to integrate those onto my rig soon 🤔
Excellent Eric. More tools for the arsenal . I got the Harbor Fright blue wide liftmaster deck for motor cycles . Ok for a transmission or light motor. 400 lbs max . But yours is a beauty heavy duty 👍 about $130 . From Hrdor fright for my little one .
You could also make some slots on the top. then mount each pillar in the slot with a big ass bolt and washer. that way you can adjust positioning. 👍
Eric.. if you are wanting to ensure it stays true laterally... I'd running a pair of threaded rods with washers and a set of 6 nuts for each rod to create a tension and locking mechanism.
I love it! You've done what I wanted to do for a long time now. Love it! Love it!
you re so good, you don't even have one dislike!
I would like to see a tool (contraption) to lift some of those heavy tires just enought to be able to install on the lugs.
Because sometimes is hard to get the to align the holes to the studs, and is a pain in the back literally due to the wight of those tires including the rims.
Great job Eric, both informative, educational & entertaining as always 😂😂 regards from Galway 😉👍💚
From life experience chain the motor to the cart. Trust me. One fuck up makes it worth it.
Nice work and welds Eric!!!
Maybe weld eyelet or short stubs/tabs on the sides so it can hook straps to if needed. If a subframe in the future ever gives you issues on balance
Non-welder here, however you could cut up some triangles and put a gusset on each beam to the vertical tube which would increase stability and safety, Also, for the end that you wanted wider, pull the pads out, and take run a piece of that 3" square stock along that end. Cut a several holes on each side and you now have something a bit more adjustable to the work at hand.
If you do end up making swivel arms on this. I would advise to put 2 or 3 Inch triangle gussets on those round tubes--- just to make them much stronger, and keep them from bending sideways. I like this setup. When you do put adjustable arms on those pipes, just make sure they are tall enough to swing around above your engine hoist legs so they don't run into it; Also, I would make the pivoting arms short enough so that you can still swing them towards the middle if a single/ center point is needed-- and then it will be a super tool, adjustable to be used on just about anything. Cool stuff.
Having two of the pads as the cradle style adapters to help hold the subframe fore and aft would add some additional safety
Eric, that is freakin’ COOL!!!! Thanks for the video!
That’s awesome, and even better that it saved money that’s what matters in my opinion.
I made one out of an "import" hydraulic table and trailer hitch tubing. Practically infinitely adjustable.
Seems like the round DOM tubes could've been extended to the casters and connected via a base plate. Then the tubes could've been connected to eachother with a much smaller tubing. As much, if not all, of the load is being carried thru the tubes to the casters. Might be much lighter and cheaper. Either way, nice build. Thanks for sharing!
that thang rolls good!!!!!
Awesome Eric!
Eric thank you for this cart just bought everything to put my transmission in my 08 pilot will let you know how it goes thanks
Man, i saw you use this in some video and completely forgot you made it, I thought i could just go pick one up somewhere
Each time I watch this video (it's not as many as the others, trust me...but it's still over ten times 😂🤣😂), I am amazed with how awesome that cart is. As I settle down and prepare to build my own home n shop, I fully expect myself to build one just like that!
Thank you again for posting this video, Eric; your innovation and creativity is so cool. :-)
Ps, I miss seeing new content here, and really hope you have a new location to move into/build soon!!!
Pss, if you do end up having a new shop constructed, can you record the daily/weekly progress so that all of us can see it grow from nothing and into a completed, ready to work in shop?? I think that would be sick! =D
Great video Eric👏👏
You could also make or have someone with a lathe turn you four double ended center shouldered pins and stack a second DOM tube if you ever needed the rig to be higher or just higher on one end. You could also make different supports to fit the tubes, bolt on or cradle style.
You should do a similar platform for solid axles like what you have in the Fairmont
I finally finished watching this. Nice job. Any footage of getting it out of the car? Also, this only seems practical if you have a lift? Not so much for someone without.
Absolutely Feckin Awesome . Ric
I bet you felt amazing after making this 😀
That is absolutely brilliant!
Nice welds!
Like very much the project, as well as the saw, this saw throws almost no sparks, really neat. The only thing I would change is the bolt and nuts orientation, you dont need to insert nuts into the square hole, just insert the bolts on the inside, then put the nuts on the bottom (external) side, it makes install/uninstall a lot easier and practical.
That would make for less clearance, which is why I did it the way I did. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome Eric!! Really good, helpful. & achievable project. 🤙🤙🤙
Your Ohio brothers - the Wright Brothers - would be wright proud. Well done .
Hydraulic table used to work great on Ford Aerostars, but those bolts came out of the top. As an retired Honda tech, it wasn't all that easy dropping the cradle.
Hey Eric. Greets from Ireland.
Hello Ireland!
What if you added sliding or maybe even extension arms like your lift has to be adjustable for whatever sub frame the comes along
If you added 4 angle support brackets. I believe it be much stonger. Good job.
Awesome job, thanks for sharing...makes me want to weld.
full video of how to remove the subframe and engine? because my 06 pilot also has transmission problem and i kinda want to fix it
Good morning everyone
Nice work and good video.
Good Work!!!
I also noticed there's no sparks when your cutting, i really need to know what kind of blade that is. 😎
💥COOL ENGINE/TRANSMISSION DOLLY😎
Nice stand
Thank You Eric :)
Late to the party but would gussets be beneficial to the pad mounts?
Looks great
Nice rig.
But you may want to consider adding two gussets to each up right support for strength.
JMHO