I found that ball bearing top hats were pretty much necessary with castor plates. There is just no proper thrust bearing and spring noise and difficult steering is inevitable. Godspeed (MSS-RB01) Radial Bearing Set For Coilovers (Koyo Bearing) is what I used. Again, essential if you don't have Rio or other oem solution. Rev 9 also sells them in green for a little more money meant for the hyperstreet IIs. This could be user error some how but 120lb springs are needed for a street setup unless your car is totally stripped out with no back seat. Festivas are really sensitive to weight in the back. The front springs require a lot of preload to have the car sit close to the middle of the suspension travel at rest. Most coilover guides recommend just a slight amount of preload and to choose a spring rate that properly supports the car without bottoming out. Not sure if the Festiva is an outlier in this, but with a bunch of preload there is no coil bind and everything seems to work well, just thought it was noteworthy. This is with a b3 and stock trans. Thank you for all of your work Will. This video is fantastic.
Good to know, tried a new audio compressor for the whole video this time around to try to reduce clipping in louder sections, it may have taken a bit too much out.
I have Hyperco springs on my Brz and they are fantastic. I believe they are one of the best springs on the market. Great video! Thanks for your hard work and dedication
27:18 is this same mod applicable to the Aspire knuckles? In other words do the Aspire knuckles have the same geometry as the Festy? Great Info. Thank you for doing the research. IMO you might consider updating clarify for those folks who have updated from stock Festy parts to Aspire knuckles ~ REV9Power kit SKU: R9-HPX-1021_1
I did mention bolt patterns are the same for Festiva and Aspire at 32:49 but it is worth pointing out here again, and that it applies for all knuckle swaps that we would typically do
It's about ½", which is basically the hole size (as they must fit an M12 Bolt) I didn't measure because there were only 2 options at Rural King and the other one was tiny lol
A few things Ive learned from running this setup for the past .5 yr - Because the F. strut body was selected to be shorter, presumably to fit the added height of the billet caber plates, unfortunately, your kinda stuck with near the prescribed springs length so further tuning is kinda limited. Also the suggested rear springs (x2): 1.87 ID X 8" X 105 Lb ..this spring selection is TOO LIGHT! A better choice is a 120LB 10" long spring & you need a jamb collar on the bottom/body.
@@914_werke It's definitely not too light, although you can switch to 10" depending on your height & rear preload combination. The front springs are much the same, you can switch to an 8" spring in front to limit the chance of coil bind depending on your total ride height. Those wanting to good just below stock can even potentially switch to a 10" Tbe rates however are very specifically chosen after tens of thousands of miles of direct A/B track testing. I would recommend sticking with them in general. More of this is discussed in the upcoming setup guide video.
@@SametIndustries 🤡 Track testing isn't REAL world variable surfaces, freeway seam & surface road potholes. I've now put more than 4k on this kit including a multi-states trek & rally. I'm willing to bet at this point you don't have many that have put as many miles on the setup. In general you want to utilize the longest spring possible so you can keep your sprig rates reasonable & provide the greatest adjustable. Since this kit is only singe circuit damping I have the rears maxed already & they will still bottom out. Add a 2nd avg sized human in the car ( rally co-driver!) & the prescribed spring rates are already overwhelmed. If all you want is to lower it & look fly fine, otherwise .....
Great video. You mention the rear, but can I reuse the front springs from the old AS setup with the rev9's? Btw as of last week the rev9's are back in stock on ebay. Finally got me a set. 😀
You cannot use any of the springs from the original guide, there isn't enough adjustment range with the longer springs. Unless you run a really high ride height, then theoretically you could run the older front springs, but I wouldn't recommend it
All the parts from TheFestivaStore are available separately. The bundle provides a discount (the sleeves become free basically) But everything in the bundle can still be purchased separately. Especially in the event that 1 part of the kit is out of stock (all parts are being re-stocked throughout the year, but production will take a while)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
32:16 i'm in a machinists union. drilling and reaming close tolerance holes is my every day work. apology accepted... i did cry
Great information Will! Can't wait to see the install.
Damn those strut mounts are nice I need to get some just the standard one tho
I found that ball bearing top hats were pretty much necessary with castor plates. There is just no proper thrust bearing and spring noise and difficult steering is inevitable. Godspeed (MSS-RB01) Radial Bearing Set For Coilovers (Koyo Bearing) is what I used. Again, essential if you don't have Rio or other oem solution. Rev 9 also sells them in green for a little more money meant for the hyperstreet IIs. This could be user error some how but 120lb springs are needed for a street setup unless your car is totally stripped out with no back seat. Festivas are really sensitive to weight in the back. The front springs require a lot of preload to have the car sit close to the middle of the suspension travel at rest. Most coilover guides recommend just a slight amount of preload and to choose a spring rate that properly supports the car without bottoming out. Not sure if the Festiva is an outlier in this, but with a bunch of preload there is no coil bind and everything seems to work well, just thought it was noteworthy. This is with a b3 and stock trans.
Thank you for all of your work Will. This video is fantastic.
@@Eviljimchicken They steering effort usually gets easier as it wears in, but that is good to know. We may offer them as an option in the next round
Yeaaaaa!🎉🎉🎉😊❤
32:16 I'm laughing so hard!
Will, audio could be just a tad louder, video quality and studio is great!
Good to know, tried a new audio compressor for the whole video this time around to try to reduce clipping in louder sections, it may have taken a bit too much out.
Cant wait to make a set
great vid, cant wait for you to get big on youtube
I have Hyperco springs on my Brz and they are fantastic. I believe they are one of the best springs on the market.
Great video! Thanks for your hard work and dedication
27:18 is this same mod applicable to the Aspire knuckles? In other words do the Aspire knuckles have the same geometry as the Festy? Great Info. Thank you for doing the research. IMO you might consider updating clarify for those folks who have updated from stock Festy parts to Aspire knuckles ~ REV9Power kit SKU: R9-HPX-1021_1
Yes.
Yes, the Festiva, Rio, Capri, and Aspire knuckle require the same modifications.
I did mention bolt patterns are the same for Festiva and Aspire at 32:49 but it is worth pointing out here again, and that it applies for all knuckle swaps that we would typically do
Great info, Will! Can't wait to get a set on my car!
What size is the rotary file you used to bore out the holes on the front struts? Thanks for all your hard work
It's about ½", which is basically the hole size (as they must fit an M12 Bolt)
I didn't measure because there were only 2 options at Rural King and the other one was tiny lol
A few things Ive learned from running this setup for the past .5 yr - Because the F. strut body was selected to be shorter, presumably to fit the added height of the billet caber plates, unfortunately, your kinda stuck with near the prescribed springs length so further tuning is kinda limited. Also the suggested rear springs (x2): 1.87 ID X 8" X 105 Lb ..this spring selection is TOO LIGHT! A better choice is a 120LB 10" long spring & you need a jamb collar on the bottom/body.
@@914_werke It's definitely not too light, although you can switch to 10" depending on your height & rear preload combination.
The front springs are much the same, you can switch to an 8" spring in front to limit the chance of coil bind depending on your total ride height. Those wanting to good just below stock can even potentially switch to a 10"
Tbe rates however are very specifically chosen after tens of thousands of miles of direct A/B track testing. I would recommend sticking with them in general.
More of this is discussed in the upcoming setup guide video.
@@SametIndustries 🤡 Track testing isn't REAL world variable surfaces, freeway seam & surface road potholes. I've now put more than 4k on this kit including a multi-states trek & rally. I'm willing to bet at this point you don't have many that have put as many miles on the setup. In general you want to utilize the longest spring possible so you can keep your sprig rates reasonable & provide the greatest adjustable. Since this kit is only singe circuit damping I have the rears maxed already & they will still bottom out. Add a 2nd avg sized human in the car ( rally co-driver!) & the prescribed spring rates are already overwhelmed. If all you want is to lower it & look fly fine, otherwise .....
Great video. You mention the rear, but can I reuse the front springs from the old AS setup with the rev9's?
Btw as of last week the rev9's are back in stock on ebay. Finally got me a set. 😀
You cannot use any of the springs from the original guide, there isn't enough adjustment range with the longer springs.
Unless you run a really high ride height, then theoretically you could run the older front springs, but I wouldn't recommend it
Do you have a link or part number? Thanks
NICE!!!
can this setup be used a DB 121
Yea, although you will want to bump the spring rates up 15% or so to make up for the additional weight
So the "spring sleeves" for the rear are not available independently?
All the parts from TheFestivaStore are available separately. The bundle provides a discount (the sleeves become free basically)
But everything in the bundle can still be purchased separately.
Especially in the event that 1 part of the kit is out of stock (all parts are being re-stocked throughout the year, but production will take a while)
Link?
@@914_werke thefestivastore.com/products/rear-coilover-spring-sleeve-pair
Now where’s the best place to get the rev9 coilovers?
I plan to stock them on the store early next year
This is cool but looks like it costs about $1000 plus to do. Not cheap seems. Anyone have a price for this conversion?
Nah not that much 600. for struts maybe 200. for "the correct" springs, you dont need the camber plates.
Whoot